Destination Magazin Nr.3/2019 EN

N o 3
December –April
2019/20
Saas-Fee/Saas Valley Magazine
ICE WORLDS

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EDITORIAL
Dear guests,
WELCOME TO YOUR HOLIDAYS!
As I come to write this editorial on this sunny afternoon, I’m sat
on my balcony looking up at the Mischabel chain. The glacier is
glistening in the late autumn sun and the mountain’s lower slopes
are carpeted in yellow-green larch and pine forests. The sight takes
my breath away, but brings little comfort. The roar of cascading
meltwater is occupying my thoughts.
As I am writing this, it has been just one week since Greta
Thunberg delivered her historical, inflammatory speech to the
United Nations and the reaction has been explosive. Opinions of
the young Swede vary, but the 16-year-old has managed to do what
many have failed at before her: she has put the climate change
debate front and centre of the world stage. What struck me most
about Greta‘s speech was its radical nature. But as I sit here today,
literally watching the glacier melt in front of my eyes, I cannot help
but wonder if even Greta is radical enough. And whether “radical”
is an adequate word at all.
Since the industrial revolution, average temperatures in
Switzerland have risen by around two degrees Celsius. That‘s more
than twice the global average. In Saas-Fee, that has meant rapid
melting of the glaciers – glaciers which are both an important part
of our livelihood and an integral element of the Saas Valley. We
have therefore decided to dedicate this winter edition to the ice
world of the Saas Valley. We want to highlight its majesty, both in
pictures and words. In doing so, we hope to do our bit to increase
people’s awareness of climate change and its impact on our environment,
not just in the future, but right now.
I strongly recommend you take a look at the article about
Felix Keller on page 12. The glaciologist is researching ways to save
our glaciers. On page 18 you can discover how Thomas Zurbriggen
prepares the glacier piste of Hohsaas, and on page 60 we introduce
you to one of the Saas Valley’s main attractions: glacier trekking.
Puzzle Media presents a unique series of photographs of
our local Ice Worlds, juxtaposing its different elements across four
double-page spreads.
Enjoy our look at the Ice Worlds on paper, and then enjoy it
in the real world! I wish you a wonderful stay in the Saas Valley and
hope it brings many unforgettable moments.
With warmest regards,
Yolanda Josephine

CONTENTS
Editorial 5
Winter events
Events calendar
10
Guardian of the glacier
Felix Keller‘s utopian plans for glacier rescue
8
12
PEOPLE
17
“We have an understanding, the glacier and I”
How Saas-Grund‘s glacier piste comes to be
“You need nerves of steel”
A day in the life of Saas-Fee‘s head of mountain rescue
The trials and tribulations of an ice master
Otto Zengaffinen and the natural ice rink in Saas-Fee
18
28
24
SAAS VALLEY
33
A new chapter in an eventful story
The re-opening of the Walliserhof Grand-Hotel & Spa
The Rex reborn
37
When a cinema becomes a cultural centre
An impressive spectacle
Experience the Saas Valley Ice Hockey Club
Saas-Fee’s magical Christmas market
The tireless pastor
More anecdotes about Johann Josef Imseng
Christoph’s column
46
40
34
44
42
CUISINE 49
Eating in the Saas mountains
50
Valais pear fondue with air-dried beef
Beetroot and ginger soup
53
Pumpkin gnocchi with sage butter
How a poor man’s soup became a gourmet classic
52
56
57
ACTIVE
59
High up the ice wall
Ice climbing in the Saas Valley
The ever-changing path
A special experience: glacier trekking
Snowshoeing on glacial moraine
62
60
64
FAMILIES 66
Kian the Dragon’s Adventureland for kids 68
Kids’ Days/Kids’ Week
69
MOUNTAINS
71
Events by the cable car companies 72
140 kilometres per hour on ice and snow
The Glacier Bike Downhill experience
The greatest ski race in the world
The 38 th Allalin race in Saas-Fee
Nothing is impossible
The Mentelity Games Saas-Grund
82
80
76
86
Piste map
Community 88
Impressum
90
6
7

WINTER EVENTS
Fire and Flames Night Show
The Snowsports School Saas-Grund lights up the night with its
Fire and Flames Night Show, which takes place next to the Ziebel
lift in the village. Starting at 8:30 pm, the 45-minute show includes
fireworks and choreographed skiing. The legendary “Fireman,” who
provides the grand finale, is not to be missed. You can see a taster
in the image below. The Ziebel lift is available for all to use for free,
from 7:30 pm until the start of the show and from the end of the
show until 10 pm. Why not round off the evening with some Bratwurst
and warm drinks?
Moon Light Fight
On Easter Sunday, the second Moon Light Fight will take place in
Saas-Fee. A thrilling showdown awaits as pairs of racers take on
the illuminated slopes at the edge of the glacier village. Competitors
race each other in a series of head to head battles, which take
place on two parallel slalom courses, starting at 2 pm. The winner
of each battle progresses to the next round.
Racers will start in categories, ranging from under-12s to
over-40s, both men and women. Of course, the sporting highlights
are the finals of the various categories as well as the prize-giving.
You can watch the action with something to eat and a warm drink
from the marquee next to the finish area. At the marquee bar, DJs
are set to keep the party going until one in the morning.
29 th December, 13 th February, and 5 th March
8:30 pm, Ziebel (village lift) in Saas-Grund
12 th April, from 2:00 pm
Sportplatz Kalbermatten Saas-Fee
saas-fee.ch/moonlightfight
Snow & Style Night Saas-Fee
The Swiss Ski School Saas-Fee kicks off the Snow & Style Night
with a torchlit descent from Spielboden to the edge of Saas-Fee.
There, a light show, complete with daring ski jumps and other impressive
demonstrations is set to wow guests. The one-hour show,
which takes place on the Sportzplatz (sports grounds) in Saas-
Fee offers a truly unique experience. The grand fireworks finale
stars the famous “Fireman” (see the adjacent picture). At the end of
the show, guests can enjoy a complimentary glass of mulled wine
alongside the show’s participants, locals, and other guests.
26 th December, 8:30 pm
1 st January, 8:30 pm
5 th February, 8:30 pm
12 th February, 8:30 pm
19 th February, 8:30 pm
26 th February, 8:30 pm
8 th April, 9 pm
Sportplatz Kalbermatten, Saas-Fee
skischule-saas-fee.ch
Après-Ski Parade
At the legendary Après-Ski Parade in Saas-Fee, you can celebrate
the end of the season as it should be celebrated: in costume, with
plenty of music and, of course, alcohol. For years, the event has
been considered THE party in the village - so join us for the end of
the 2019/2020 season!
Starting from midday, the crowds dance their way down
Saas-Fee’s main street. En-route there are no less than eight
decorated bars serving drinks, and various food stalls offering local
and regional delicacies. DJ Kusi and friends man the decks up on
the tower pumping out good vibes and keeping everyone dancing.
Don’t forget to pack a crazy costume, because dressing up is a
must at the Après-Ski Parade. The night continues at a variety of
bars and clubs across Saas-Fee.
18 th April, midday to 10 pm
saas-fee.ch/apresskiparade
8
9

EVENTS CALENDAR
December–March
December–April
Fire and Flames Night Show,
Saas-Grund
skisaas.ch
Various yoga retreats
saas-fee.ch/yoga
December–April
Live music
saas-fee.ch/live-musik
19 th February
Kids’ Day, Fasnacht carnival,
Saas-Fee
December–April
December–April
Every Thursday
Snow & Style Night,
Saas-Fee
skischule-saas-fee.ch
Mountain Hut Magic
saas-fee.ch/berghüttenzauber
25 th February
28 th February
Night skiing
with fondue party,
Saas-Grund
Kids’ Day,
Saas-Almagell
December–April
Night sledging, Saas Valley
saas-fee.ch/nachtschlitteln
6 th March
Comedy, “A town meeting with
Mike Müller,” Saas-Fee
December–April
Kids’ disco, Saas Valley
saas-fee.ch/kinderdisco
7 th March
Tsunami Waterslide Contest,
sports field, Saas-Fee
December–April
Fondue gondola, Saas-Fee
saas-fee.ch/fonduegondel
9 th –13 th March
Kids’ Week,
Saas-Grund
December–April
Sunrise Skiing, Saas-Fee
saas-fee.ch/sunrise-skiing
13 th –15 th March
Saas-Free Heel Telemark
Festival Vol. 3, Saas-Grund
January–March
Full Moon Skiing, Saas Valley
saas-fee.ch/vollmond-skifahren
14 th March
Glacier Bike Downhill
Saas-Fee
1 st −24 th December
Various Christmas events
saas-fee.ch/weihnachtszeit
19 th March
Valley race Talrennen,
Saas-Grund
6 th −8 th December
10 th December
13 th /14 th December
27 th December
28 th December
2 nd January
12 th January
13 th –17 th January
18 th January
20 th –24 th January
54 th Perle der Alpen/
13 th Allalin-Cup
(curling contest)
Sunrise skiing,
Mittelallalin, Saas-Fee
Christmas market,
Saas-Fee
Kids’ Day, New year’s arts and
crafts party, Saas-Grund
Irish pub night,
Alpha, Saas-Grund
Classical music concert with
the Chauvel Family,
Parish church, Saas-Grund
Kids’ Bobrace
Ziebel lift, Saas-Grund
Kids’ Week
Saas-Grund
Swiss Ice Climbing
Championships,
multistorey car park, Saas-Fee
Kids’ Week
Saas-Grund
21 st March
21 st March
27 th /28 th March
24 th –27 th March
27 th March–4 th April
10 th April
12 th April
13 th April
18 th April
MG Alpenrösli Annual Concert,
Saas-Fee
12 Hour Knock Out Challenge,
Saas-Grund
Allalin Rennen (race),
Saas-Fee
Mentelity Games,
Saas-Grund
Photo exhibition Kurt S. Müller,
Aqua Allalin, Saas-Fee
Kids’ Day,
Easter egg painting, Saas-Fee
Moon Light Fight
Saas-Fee
Season end,
events TBD, Saas-Grund
Après Ski Parade,
Saas-Fee
24 th /25 th January
Ice Climbing World Cup,
multistorey car park, Saas-Fee
11 th February
16 th –24 th February
18 th February
Night skiing and fondue party,
Saas-Grund
Carnival Saas Valley
saas-fee.ch/fasnacht
Night skiing and fondue party,
Saas-Grund
The Fee Glacier, which sits above
Saas-Fee, extends from Mittelallalin almost
all the way to the Mischabel Hut. It
covers much of the eastern flanks of the
Allalinhorn (4,027 m), Feechopf
(3,888 m), Alphubel (4,206 m), Täschhorn
(4,490 m), Dom (4,545 m) and the
Lenzspitze (4,294 m). In the background, you
can spot the Allalin revolving restaurant.
Photo: Adrian Myers
10
11

GUARDIAN OF THE GLACIER
Glaciologist Felix Keller is determined to
save our glaciers. It might be an
ambitious plan, but he believes it is possible.
Text: Bruno Bolinger
When Felix Keller talks about his plan,
his eyes light up, bright and blue like the
glacier. Blue and white have always been
his favourite colours. The 56-year-old
naturalist and glaciologist has a mission:
to protect the Morteratsch Glacier in
Sedrun from complete melting. Although
in his words, “it’s not so much about the
glaciers themselves, rather the water
locked up within them.”
In Switzerland, 57 billion cubic metres of water are stored as ice
in its glaciers. And that water is valuable. As the glaciers shrink,
rivers will run lower and lower each year. At present, if the rains fail
in summer, glacial melt prevents the rivers in the valley from drying
up. But once the glaciers are gone, the water supply as we know it
today will cease to function.
Two years ago, Felix Keller was having lunch with his then
supervisor at the Academia Engiadina educational institution in
Samedan. “If you were of any value as a glaciologist, you ought
to save the Morteratsch Glacier,” his supervisor teased. “Forget it,
there’s no way that would work!” was Keller‘s answer at the time.
But he couldn’t get the idea of saving the glacier out of his head.
The very next day while fishing in a wild stream, he began to think
through the possibilities and impossibilities of such an ambitious
project. Glass, metal, plastic and paper – they all get recycled in
this day and age, he thought. So why not the glacial meltwater?
After days of thinking over the facts and turning them over in his
head time and time again, Keller couldn’t find any good grounds
on which to say they wouldn’t be able to successfully rescue the
glacier. So the project was born. The question he found himself
asking was: “Should we try to preserve glaciers as freshwater
storage for future generations?”
Keller presented his idea to friend and fellow glaciologist
Hans Oerlemans from the University of Utrecht. A series of
measurements taken by this university since 1994 makes the
Morteratsch Glacier the world‘s best-studied glacier in terms of
energy balance. Interestingly, Oerlemans, unlike Keller, believed
the plan to be quite feasible. He suggested they could test the
theory by spreading snow produced from the glacier’s meltwater
over part of the glacier itself to protect it from solar radiation.
The projections that followed the experiment were surprising.
If just 10 percent of the glacier‘s surface could be kept snowcapped
during the summer, the glacier would potentially start
growing again within ten years. That would be a dramatic turnaround.
But the numbers in question were enormous. One million
square metres of glacier would have to be covered with metres of
snow. That meant the project would require 30,000 tonnes of snow
to be produced. 30,000 tonnes for each day of the short weather
window between winter and early summer! It would need to be
done in the high mountains and, if possible, without the use of
electricity. Confronted with such a mammoth task, Keller faced
sleepless nights once again.
“If just 10 percent of the glacier’s
surface could be kept snow-capped during the
summer, the glacier would potentially start
growing again within ten years.”
Felix Keller, 56, grew up in Samedan and has three children. He is a co-director
of the European Tourism Institute at the Higher School of Tourism in Samedan. He also
works on various research projects and lectures on the geography of tourism,
resource management, and teaching methods, and conducts international seminars.
Photo: Bruno Bolinger
A passionate violinist, Keller spends half an hour each morning
practising. “My daily violin playing opens up my mind,” he says.
Keller relies on his morning routine to come up with new ideas
and solutions. One example is his plan to produce snow using a
‘Schneelanze’ type snow cannon; it is patented in Switzerland and
works without electricity. It should be possible to spread the snow
using the cable cars that already run over the glacier. Soon, they
hope that funding options will open up, and a working prototype for
the project will be built in cooperation with industrial partners to
prove its practical feasibility.
The estimated cost of the whole project over the next 30
years is 100 million Swiss francs. “That’s only a few million francs
per year,” explains Keller, “even if it prevents just one river drying
out in one of the dry summers we have to come, then it’s a good
investment.” He goes one step further: “I recommend that we
apply our approach to one glacier in each of the catchment areas
supplying the six major rivers in Switzerland as soon as possible.”
The town’s famous Fee Glacier could potentially
benefit from Felix Keller‘s ideas. Until 1850 it reached
the edges of the village. But due to changes in
climate, it has retreated dramatically in recent years.
Photo: Puzzle Media
12
13

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Ice stupas are man-made pyramids of frozen water. They are built during the winter
months and serve as reservoirs in the arid landscapes of the Himalayas. In spring, they
melt slowly, allowing consistent irrigation of farmland. Photo: Bruno Bolinger
Keller says that the most important thing to do, in terms of the
bigger picture, is to tackle the root causes of climate change rather
than just trying to alleviate the symptoms. “I hope that this project
will convince people that sustainable policies are required to
prevent climate change. And that the enactment of those policies
is not just seen as a necessary evil, but that they become part of
a broader trend in which we’re all inspired to take action, including
on an individual level.”
Felix Keller‘s enthusiasm for his glacier preservation project
and for tackling environmental issues is contagious. Keller is
active in raising awareness of climate change and campaigning
for something to be done. Last year he organized a concert on the
Pers Glacier, inviting media and the public to see the effects of
climate change firsthand. He’s an ambassador for the international
“I AM PRO SNOW” campaign, which motivates winter sports
resorts, enthusiasts and brands to switch to renewable energy for
the sake of preserving the climate and snow they rely on.
Keller is also concerned by similar water and glacier
problems in the Himalayas, and he wants to help find a solution. He’s
already made contact and started making progress. The awardwinning
idea of building ice stupas comes from the Himalayas.
These are meltwater reservoirs in the form of huge pyramids of ice,
often 20 or even 30 metres high. Built in the winter months, the
meltwater from these stupas helps to maintain field irrigation even
through the dry spring months in the mountainous Ladakh region.
To raise awareness of the initiative, Keller has recreated ice stupas
in somewhat smaller dimensions near the Morteratsch station in
Engadine for several years now. Yet despite his efforts, Felix Keller
remains humble. He’s aware that ultimately, there is only so much
he can do. If the glaciers have any chance of somehow surviving, is
not up to him alone.
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14

PEOPLE
“We have an understanding,
the glacier and I”
How Saas-Grund‘s glacier piste comes to be
18
“You need nerves of steel”
A day in the life of Saas-Fee‘s head of mountain rescue
24
The trials and tribulations
of an ice master
Otto Zengaffinen and the natural ice rink in Saas-Fee
28
As head of rescue for the cable car company in
Saas-Fee, Bärti Hegner is the man with
the greatest responsibility in the ski region. Photo: Puzzle Media
17

On the Trift Glacier, not far from
the Hohsaas mountain station, Thomas fills
the crevasses with ice and snow.
“Thomas Zurbriggen knows the Trift Glacier
like no other.”
“WE HAVE AN UNDERSTANDING, THE GLACIER AND I”
By the time Thomas Zurbriggen has finished
his work, the glacier piste in Saas-Grund
looks just like any other ski run. But below
the perfect corduroy lies ice. This is the
story of how Thomas creates an immaculate
piste on top of a glacier.
Text: Jeannine Zubler
Photos: Puzzle Media
The snow cracks under the snowcat’s
caterpillar tracks. The vehicle comes to
a sudden, jerky halt, shaking the cabin
and the driver inside. Thomas pushes
the accelerator pedal to the floor, but the
machine just tips forward further, its tracks
digging deeper into the nothingness
below. He kills the engine and climbs out
of the cabin, radioing his colleague: “I’m
wedged in a crevasse, you’re going to
need to tow me out”. “Understood, I’m on
my way,” comes the reply. His co-worker
soon arrives in a second snowcat, and
fills the crevasse below with snow, freeing
Thomas’ own machine.
No skier has ever fallen into a crevasse on the groomed piste. But
mere metres away from the marked run, it’s a different story entirely.
One skier rescued by piste patrollers was discovered with his pants
down, quite literally. He had ventured just beyond the edges of the
piste to relieve himself, and the snow beneath him gave way into
the crevasse below. Thomas never leaves the pistes when he skis
up here himself. Far too dangerous, he says. “I see the glacier in the
summer, and it’s a real labyrinth of crevasses,” he gestures as if to
dismiss the concept.
The ski season is still a long way off. Hikers in shorts are
sipping coffees on the Hohsaas terrace and bathing in the late summer
sun. Bikers, rather than skiers, descend the trails from Kreuzboden to
the valley floor, the marmots whistling when they stray too close.
Back on the Trift Glacier, not far from the Hohsaas cable
car station, Thomas tips the excavator’s bucket and chunks of ice
tumble down, filling the crevasse. He won’t be satisfied until he can
comfortably walk across the crack in the ice. Then he moves on to fill
the next one. It’s all part of preparing the glacier piste for the coming
winter. Grooming pistes generally involves moulding the snow with a
snowcat - but for Thomas and the glacier piste, there’s a long way to
go before that. In the Autumn, it‘s more of a civil engineering project.
The rubble and boulders deposited by the glacier over the summer
months need to go. Gradually, the slope is smoothed and evened out.
Thomas‘ digger climbs from one plateau to the next, its spiked tracks
bite into the ice like a climber’s crampons.
Skiers have been enjoying the glacier piste at Hohsaas since
1983. Back then, Thomas’ forebears would clear the ice and rock with
chainsaws and a single small digger. Even for Thomas, that’s hard to
imagine. He has heavy machinery, two excavators and four snowcats,
at his disposal. One of them is an even more powerful winch-cat.
These monsters weigh in at between nine and 12 tons each. But even
with this arsenal behind him, building a ski piste on the tongue of
the glacier gets more challenging each year. The scars left by the
retreating ice are hard to heal. Here, climate change is an everyday
reality.
“I often chat to Saas-Fee’s head of slope operations.”
Thomas Zurbriggen has worked for Hohsaas ski resort since 1988. He has been head of
slope operations since 2000.
Thomas looks wistfully up at the summit of the Weismiess, at the
glacier clinging onto its rock face. He reminisces about summers
spent up at the Weismiess Hut with his grandfather. Back then, the
glacier was a huge expanse of ice, almost reaching the hut itself.
Since then it has retreated more than 800 metres. “It’s painful to see
how quickly it’s melting,” he says, “and it just gets faster, year on year.”
Nevertheless, Saas-Grund is committed to preserving the glacier ski
area south of the lift. The icy underlayer keeps the snow there cold
and powdery well into the spring. “There are years when you can
touch the glacier’s seracs from the piste,” says Thomas, and guests
travel from far and wide to experience this proximity to a glacier.
Saas-Fee already preserves the snow over the summer months using
special protective covers, which it then uses to prepare the slopes
the following winter. Now, Saas-Grund is looking into employing the
same technique.
Driving a snowcat is a childhood dream. For Thomas, it was, at
least. But even that can become ordinary when it’s your daily routine.
His daily view out over the eighteen four-thousand-metre peaks no
longer impresses him in quite the same way it does first time guests
to the Saas Valley. “But when a metre of fresh snow falls, then the
excited little boy comes back to the surface,” he says with a wink.
His job certainly isn’t for everyone. The long, quiet nights
can get lonely with snowcat drivers working when the guests down
in the valley are snuggled up in their beds. But Thomas treasures
these quiet nights in the mountains. The stunning sunrises over the
Mischabel range are more than enough to make up for it.
18
19

One autumn, a seemingly normal day of excavation on the glacier
turned into a particularly memorable moment for Thomas. As he was
clearing the ice with his excavator shovel, something caught his eye.
Wait, was that a trouser leg? As it turned out, the glacier had finally
released two Bernese mountain climbers who had been missing for
35 years. Not quite your normal day at the office.
In winter, six snowcat drivers, five piste patrollers, a mechanic
and a snowmaker look after Saas-Grund’s ski slopes. Anyone with
a category F driving license is allowed to drive a snowcat provided
they complete a two-day driving course. But in addition to this,
Thomas has a license to drive lorries and construction vehicles and is
a trained piste patroller. He’s also completed avalanche management
training including avalanche blasting and charge throwing. Only with
all this under his belt, can Thomas, together with the head of the
mountain rescue, guarantee safety on the glacier piste.
As soon as the first snow falls, Thomas‘ crew climb aboard
their snowcats. The weight of the beasts breaks down the snow
crystals. They drive back and forth over the snow, condensing the
snowpack and pushing the air out of it, preparing a perfect base
for the ski slope. The flawless, white corduroy lines come last. The
heavy-duty front tiller spins at 1000 revolutions per minute, digging
five to six centimetres deep into the snow as it crushes lumps and
breaks down artificial snow. The rear tiller is flexible and adapts to
the terrain to create the wonderfully smooth corduroy pistes. It’s time
to enjoy some turns.
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The glacier slope in Hohsaas exists since 1983. Back then, they worked on the ice and rocks only with a chainsaw and a small excavator.
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20
21
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22
23

“YOU NEED NERVES OF STEEL”
The last descent belongs to them. They
trigger avalanches, position piste markers, and
rescue injured skiers. Head of mountain
rescue Albert Hegner on danger and his team’s
role in ensuring guests can ski safely.
Text: Jeannine Zubler
Photos: Puzzle Media
“He needs to turn off the engine.” Bärti, as
Albert Hegner is better known, needs to
focus. Right now, nothing else matters,
not even the helicopter waiting to fly him
to his next port of call. An avalanche has
damaged a monitoring station. Bärti has
to assess the damage and, if possible,
repair it on site.
Bärti Hegner, calmness incarnate?
He laughs, “Sometimes I’ll lose my cool for
five minutes or so... but it never helps.” He
always has a plan B – and nerves of steel.
“I always have a plan B”
The ability to stay calm is indispensable in a job where the situation is
constantly changing. And ‘routine’ is an alien concept to Bärti. The one
fixed point in his schedule is at half-past four each morning when he
is always in his office at the valley station. From there, he analyzes the
previous night, and in particular the information collected by his snowcat
drivers. He uses everything at his disposal to estimate the current
avalanche risk and decides whether the ski area will open that day.
The Swiss Avalanche Institute (SLF) makes a general
recommendation for the area which serves as a guide. In addition to
all of that, he sometimes draws on the experiences of his predecessor
Dominik Kalbermatten, who boasts 25 years worth of valuable
knowledge when it comes to assessing the snow situation in the
area. Sometimes, Bärti has to increase the danger level above the
SLF recommendation. As the head of mountain rescue for the high
alpine ski resort Saas-Fee, he has a huge responsibility and faces
several challenging decisions daily. A particular challenge of this ski
resort is that it starts at an altitude where many others end, at 1,800
metres above sea level. The avalanche situation is rarely clear cut.
As the leader of the mountain rescue team, he is responsible for the
safety of the whole area. It would even be his duty to recommend total
evacuation if the avalanche risk were to reach levels that extreme.
He makes these decisions with the support of the Bergbahnen (lift
company) management team as well as the crisis staff at the town hall.
After a heavy snowfall, the ski resort usually stays closed at
the beginning of the day. It remains closed until Bärti and his team
can detonate explosives to trigger controlled avalanches in highrisk
areas, removing dangerous buildups of snow from the steepest
slopes. They usually use a helicopter, or, when there is no other
option, they ski tour and do the job by hand. When it comes to touring,
Bärti needs to carry around 20 kilograms of explosives in his backpack.
Is that not scary? “It‘s heavy,” he says with a wink. Once the
snow loads on the steep slopes have been reduced, the avalanche
Both in Saas-Fee and Saas-Grund there
are glacier slopes. Leaving the pistes
in glacial areas is extremely risky and
re-quires years of experience, training,
and knowledge of crevasse rescue and
how to use ropes effectively. Mountain
guides know the area well and offer ski
and snowboard freeride tours.
Saas-Fee‘s piste patrol works closely with Air Zermatt. For complex rescues in
difficult-to-access terrain, Bärti calls in the helicopter. This is often the case when the
rescue requires heavy equipment.
situation can be reassessed. And when it reaches a reasonable level
of risk, they can reopen the snowsports area. That doesn’t mean the
risk has totally resolved, Bärti emphasises: “You should never lose
your respect for the mountains. Avalanche danger prevails, as long
as there is snow on the ground.”
Crevasses also present a huge risk factor. In the winter they
lie hidden under a sheet of snow. Even Bärti, who knows the area
and its terrain better than most, says that leaving the marked pistes
on the glacier is too dangerous for him. He has witnessed far too
many rescue missions for that. He recalls the time a young snowboarder
fell into a crack below the Allalinhorn. Despite the efficient
rescue effort, the snowboarder later died in the hospital. Such cases
can really affect Bärti and the team. Especially when children are
involved, he reflects, becoming more pensive. “During the rescues, in
“During the rescues, in the moment,
I’m on autopilot, just following my training
to the word.” But it‘s always tough when
security concerns mean Bärti Hegner has to
make the call to suspend a mission
when he knows people are still missing.
saas-fee.ch/bergfuehrer
Avalanche bulletin
Produced by the WSL Institute for Snow
and Avalanche Research SLF, the
bulletin appears twice daily in winter: find
it on slf.ch or the app for smartphones.
“We talk a lot within the team about
the things we experience. Talk,
talk, and talk again, it helps us to
process everything.”
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Bärti Hegner is 51 years old and has been working for the Saas-Fee cable car company
since 2014. As of 2018 he has been head of mountain rescue.
the moment, I’m on autopilot, just following my training to the word.
But as soon as we’ve done what we can, that’s when I find myself
brooding.” Regardless of whether he knows the victims personally,
it still hits hard; they are people with futures ahead of them. The
team come together to discuss experiences like this, to help them to
come to terms with what they’ve seen. As the team leader, Bärti often
seeks to start the conversation, usually sensing when someone else
is dwelling on an incident.
Of course, there are some downsides. Patrollers need
to do their job in all weathers. And even when it’s in the middle
of a blizzard, with temperatures of -30 degrees and winds of
80 kilometres an hour, they still have to take off their gloves and
detonate explosive charges to ensure everyone’s safety. And
sometimes it takes a thick skin. Not all our guests are understanding
when we have to close parts of the resort due to avalanche risks
in the spring. But safety is everything for Bärti. It’s not up for
discussion, even if it means losses for the Bergbahnen (lift company.
Saas-Fee‘s piste patrol works closely with Air Zermatt. For complex
rescues in difficult-to-access terrain, Bärti calls in the helicopter.
This can be because the rescue requires heavy equipment; when
it comes to rescues from crevasses, for example, they sometimes
require winches, and rescues can last into the night, necessitating
specialist lighting equipment. Hegner and his team also support Air
Zermatt on numerous rescue efforts. When weather conditions are
too dangerous the helicopter can’t always fly, and sometimes the
search has to be called off. That is a particularly hard decision to
make if they know that people are still missing. But bad weather
does not stop Bärti and his team from working. If the lifts can’t run
because of high winds, they use snowmobiles and even touring skis
when needed. His patrols are always first to the scene of an accident,
usually making the first diagnosis. “In 98 percent of cases, we get it
right!” Bärti says, proud of his experienced team.
He started life as a farmer, before spending several years
working on construction sites, installing windows. One day, by
chance, Wendelin Keller, managing director of the Hoch-Ybrig ski
resort in Znüni, asked Bärti if he would like to try life as a ski patroller.
He was on the lookout for people for the winter, and Bärti thought,
why not? With no knowledge of ski resorts and no particular interest
in slope markers, he joined a training class in Arosa. He just wanted
to ski as fast as possible, he admits with a laugh.
That said, Keller taught him what it takes to make considered
decisions and ultimately to take responsibility for the ski resort.
Bärti attributes the mental strength he currently exhibits in his role
to Keller’s own tenaciousness. Suddenly his radio crackles, the
helicopter pilot sounds impatient. “Understood, I‘ll bring the chainsaw
with me,” Bärti responds as he hurries out. A mission awaits!
“I can’t imagine a more rewarding
job. I see myself as
the luckiest person around.”
Pictured, Air Zermatt flies over the north side of the Allalin Glacier to detonate
explosives in order to trigger a controlled avalanche.
26

THE TRIALS AND TRIBULATIONS OF AN ICE MASTER
Saas-Fee boasts one of the most beautiful
natural ice rinks in the world. Otto Zengaffinen
has managed the rink for decades. But what
happens when the weather turns?
Text: Samuel Burgener (Editor for the NZZ)
Photos: Nathalie Taiana
Even on Christmas day, Otto Zengaffinen
can often be spotted at the edge of
Saas-Fee’s ice rink watching the tourists
and locals skate. A group of teenagers
laugh, sliding curling stones over the
rink. Another plays ice hockey. The ice
is an impressive 30 centimetres thick,
comprising 1,200 total cubic metres
of frozen water. Otto, whom everyone
knows and loves, says “ice-making is a
science. With just a touch of magic.”
Switzerland is home to around
400 ice rinks, most of which are either
indoors or artificial outdoor rinks. Otto
manages the most used natural ice rink
in Switzerland. He waters, resurfaces,
shapes, and cleans the ice from the
beginning of November right through to
mid-February. A local newspaper once
called Otto the ice whisperer. Otto is the
Sisyphus of ice and snow.
Otto begins ice-making on the 10 th of November each year. From
this date onwards, the sun’s rays barely touch the Sportplatz
(sports ground) at all. Otto stands in the middle of the field, cloaked
in the dark of night. He’s kitted out in ski trousers, a down jacket,
bright orange gloves, a hat, and winter boots. This is his uniform for
watering the surface of the sports grounds, which he does with a
bulky hose as well as his trusty watering can. Every once in a while,
he walks around, prodding the ground pensively.
Otto ices 4,500 square metres in total. The ground that he
works on consists of rubberised sports pitches and several tennis
courts, in addition to concrete areas. The rubberised ground
conserves heat well, so the water takes a substantial time to freeze.
What’s more, much of the water seeps into the clay tennis court
before ice can form. It’s only on the concrete areas that the water
freezes quickly. Be that as it may, Otto creates layer after layer of
ice, the rink beneath him thickening at around one millimetre per
hour. Best case scenario, it takes Otto three weeks to get the ice
ready. But often, that turns out to be wishful thinking.
Otto grew up in Sierre, in the Valais lowlands, where he
learnt to skate on a frozen tributary of the Rhone. As a child, he
worked on his parents‘ farm, caring for the poultry and the orchard.
And so from a young age, he was used to working with machines,
both at one with nature and battling against it, just as he does
today. In 1964, Otto made the move to the Saas Valley. He played
first division ice hockey for Saas-Grund and later went on to play
for Saas-Fee. There, he met Vreni and decided to stay in the valley,
where they eventually had their three children.
The November day which sees Saas-Fee’s floodlights saturate
the ice rink for the first time all year is a big one for many kids
in the village. It’s like Christmas, Easter, and the annual football
tournament all rolled into one. Otto has been announcing the arrival
of winter in this way for thirty years.
By the middle of November, the ice is usually around five
centimetres deep. But all it takes is an unseasonal heatwave and
that thin layer could melt in a matter of hours, leaving a puddle
where an entire ice rink previously stood. If that happens, Otto is
powerless to stop it.
In 1984, Otto was searching for a job when he joined the
Saas-Fee piste patrol team. Even back then, he says he secretly
would have preferred a caretaker role at the Sportplatz. Just a
few short years later, his dream job became available. And so in
November 1988, Otto found himself preparing the ice for the very
first time. He experimented, failed, then tried again, learning from
each failure. Soon after starting the new role, there was a seniors’
ice hockey tournament. In the days leading up to the tournament,
Otto had sprayed too much water on the ice. Although the ice
thickened, puddles and cavities formed inside, causing the players
to break through, and leaving Otto utterly ashamed.
During his first few years on the job, Otto spent the early
winter sleeping on a plastic deckchair in the small cafe next to
the Sportplatz, wrapped in military blankets for warmth. All this
because he was getting up several times during the night to do the
rounds with his watering can and shovel, sprinkling water over his
growing ice field to solidify the slush. Every time he cycled through
the village in the mornings, the schoolchildren would yell after him:
“Otto, is the ice ready to use yet?”
After a melt, Otto must start the ice-making process all over
again. So naturally it’s a relief when it snows a few inches. When
it does, he mounts an old snowcat roller to his blue Zamboni 440,
vintage 1992. Then he drives it over the entire surface several times
over, flattening the snow and compressing it like a road roller on
freshly laid tar. Then he waters the snow, which in turn absorbs the
water and freezes solid. Storms are usually followed by a respite in
the form of several clear, cold days. But that doesn’t assuage Otto’s
fears. If it snowed again now, he would have to clear the excess
snow with a large tiller, which would inevitably break the ice. And
he’d have to start over yet again.
Every year since 1988, Otto Zengaffinen
has been preparing the ice for the outdoor
ice rink in Saas-Fee.
Otto heads to the Sportplatz every
night and ices 4,500 square metres of ground.
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29

Each winter is different. Every winter brings warm and cold patches,
rain and snow, fogs and storms. If the humidity is high, the ice builds
quickly. In which case, Otto smoothes it with the sharp, diagonally
mounted blades of his Zamboni. When it’s windy, snow blows
up and sticks to the boards surrounding the rink. Otto scrapes it
off with a shovel. When it gets warm, hockey goals sink into the
ice. All of this means Otto must check the weather report on his
mobile each and every day. At times, it drives him a little crazy.
Otto thanks ice-making for keeping him young. The villagers
say that he has looked the same for thirty years. His unrivalled
experience has taught him that to make good ice you have to work
hard, you have to have a good sense of your potential, and a good
feel for the environment.
Otto uses an old fire engine hose to spray the rink with
water. He has learnt the hard way that if he turns the taps on fully,
he loses control; the hose bucks wildly this way and that, driven by
the water pressure. Once, he had to call his friends to help. It took
three of them to tame the beast.
The ice rink behaves like a glacier, constantly changing.
When the temperature is close to zero degrees, the ice is soft,
supple, almost silent. Hockey players can skate over it perfectly as
if gliding on tracks. But when the temperature drops below minus
eight degrees, the ice screeches, sticks and breaks. Fissures form
in the snow, which Otto must fill with a trowel as if patching up
cracks in a wall.
At the beginning of December, the ice measures 20
centimetres thick on a good day. Yet, the changing weather
continues to make life complicated. Rain and slushy snowfall
bringing dirt along with them. The problem is, Otto has to
keep the ice clean. If dirt freezes in the ice, it will crack and
become impossible to smooth. Challenges like these mean Otto
sometimes spends up to 12 hours on his Zamboni, taking only
short breaks. He must vary his speed to keep the machine ticking
over without breaking down. Eventually, he lies down for
an hour, eats a sandwich and then gets back to work, putting
in another 12 hours shift. He’s soaked, freezing, and miserable.
Otto was the goalie for EHC Saas-Fee for more than 20
years. When he had a game, and he couldn’t find someone to stand
in for him as the rink’s caretaker, he would climb onto his Zamboni
between periods, still wearing his heavy goalkeeper’s pads and
sweep the ice himself. Then he’d drink a quick cup of coffee, and
dive back in the goal. He once applied for the TV Show “Wetten,
dass…” (You bet!) standing in goal, dressed only in swimming trunks,
blocking oncoming shots with his snow shovel. In the summers,
Otto would train with his keeper’s gloves on the meadows.
Neighbouring children would throw potatoes and small stones to
help him train his reflexes. Otto played his last game aged 59, a
third division match in Verbier, and fittingly, he kept a clean sheet.
From 10 th December, the sun no longer shines on the ice
field at all. The Mittaghorn blocks its rays entirely and temperatures
usually stay below zero. By this time, the ice is about 25 centimetres
thick and when it reaches this critical level, it begins to self-regulate,
keeping itself cool. In the middle of December, Otto uses natural
colourings to mark out the pitch on the ice. The colour can cause
its own problems, however. When it warms up, it melts into the ice,
so Otto has to draw the lines, again and again, all winter long.
Otto has spent more than a thousand nights lovingly
tending the ice in Saas-Fee. Ice that disappears entirely when the
sun returns in February. He might be paid hourly, but sometimes he
forgets to clock in, that’s not the be-all and end-all for him. Though
it certainly bothers him when people wonder what’s so magical
about ice-making.
Otto has announced his retirement several times now and
cleared out his desk more than once. He’d had enough, wanted to
spend the winter with his grandchildren instead. They all play ice
hockey, the youngest for SC Bern. But every autumn, Otto gets the
call again: “Could you help out?” He always says that if he’s going
to help, he might as well do the job himself. Something about the
ice draws him in, though he’s still not quite sure what. He says he
likes the cold and the silence of the long nights; “And if I don’t do
it, perhaps nobody will.”
“Ice-making is a science. With just
a touch of magic.”
A version of this article was published in the NZZ
on 24 th December 2018.
Otto has spent more than a thousand nights tending the ice in Saas-Fee. “If I don’t do it,
maybe nobody will,” Otto says.
This is a close-up view of Otto‘s ice on a warmer day. Due to the
higher temperatures, holes and small puddles form inside the ice.
30
31

SAAS VALLEY
A new chapter in an eventful story
The re-opening of the Walliserhof Grand-Hotel & Spa
The Rex reborn
When a cinema becomes a cultural centre
An impressive spectacle
Experience the Saas Valley Ice Hockey Club
Saas-Fee’s magical Christmas market
The tireless pastor
More anecdotes about Johann Josef Imseng
37
40
44
Christoph’s column 46
34
42
The view from Hannig of the Almagellerhorn (middle), Plattjen
and the Mittaghorn (right). Photo: Christof Schmid
33

A NEW CHAPTER IN AN EVENTFUL STORY
The Walliserhof Grand-Hotel & Spa celebrates
its reopening in December 2019. This is
a glimpse at the storied history of one of
Saas-Fee’s iconic establishments.
Text: Yolanda Josephine Bond
Photos: Saastal Tourismus AG
The new concept: holistic recovery
From December 2019, a new chapter in the eventful history of the
hotel begins. With new investors came a new hotel director. And
he brought with him a new vision. The exquisite brochure of the
new Walliserhof calls the hotel “your alpine retreat for body, mind,
and soul,” going on to say that through relaxation, activities, and
gastronomy, they aim to “take care of your holistic well-being.” Hotel
director Thorsten Fink explains: “At our hotel, we aim to help guests
to recover from the stresses of daily life. We cater for those who
have busy working lives and might struggle to find time for healthy
eating, sports, or spending quality time with their families. We put
together a complete programme for our guests, promoting active and
sustainable recovery,” says Fink.
She frantically tightens her bright, chiffon
It all began in 1883 as Grand Hotel Belle Vue
sarong around her hips and adjusts her
The Walliserhof started life in 1883 as the Grand Hotel Belle Vue, only
beach hat. Then she wipes a bead of
sweat from her lip, takes a deep breath,
Bill Murray and co.
the second hotel to be built in Saas-Fee. In 1951 it was renamed Hotel
Walliserhof. But in May 1976, a catastrophic fire burnt the old hotel to
and plunges back into the Walliserhof
events hall, a tray full of cocktails in one
It was, however, just one of many. The Walliserhof was known for
hosting the most extravagant events and illustrious guests. Barons,
the ground, and in 1978, the property was acquired by the Anthamatten
family, namely brothers Erwin and Albert Anthamatten. The hotel was
An outdoor shot of the building as it looked when operating under the Ferienart name.
hand. It’s the late 80s and a well-known
politicians, actors and singers streamed through its doors, often
rebuilt and finally reopened in 1983. Albert‘s son, Beat Anthamatten
private bank from Geneva is throwing its
partying until the early hours in its club, Le Dancing. At the height of
and his wife Chantal ran the hotel for more than 30 glorious years,
staff party at the exclusive five-star hotel.
its fame, a simple glass of mineral water cost an immodest 12 francs.
operating in recent years, under the name Ferienart Resort and Spa.
Former hotel manager Beat Anthamatten
TV shows were filmed there, fashion shows were hosted, even Holly-
Now, the couple has finally retired from the hotel, and this winter
has put on a luxurious beach-themed
wood dropped in. Part of the Bill Murray movie “The Razor‘s Edge”
it celebrates its reopening as the Walliserhof Grand Hotel and Spa.
party, complete with sand, a colourful sea
of umbrellas, and waiting staff decked
was filmed at the hotel. Thanks to a spate of food poisoning in India,
where they had been shooting scenes in the Himalayas, the whole
Fink, the hotel’s new director, knows and appreciates hotel’s
long history, and its importance to the village. But he wants to shift
CrossFit box and more
out in beachwear. The party went down
crew had to leave prematurely. They landed on Saas-Fee as the
the focus: “I don’t see myself as the director of a business in isolation,
The new Walliserhof will be a boon for the whole town, not just its
in legend and is still talked about in the
stand-in. And so, approximately 45 members of the cast and crew
but rather as part of a whole destination. It‘s not just about me and
guests. The fitness and spa area has been doubled in size. The gym
village today.
stayed in the Walliserhof for three weeks. During which time, Bill
my team, or even the Walliserhof. It‘s about Saas-Fee – the whole
is fitted with the latest equipment, including a CrossFit box - the first
Murray felt so at home that he even played a DJ set in Le Dancing.
town succeeds together!”
in a 5-star hotel in Switzerland. The whole wellness area totals more
than 2,000 square metres – it’s on a whole new scale for Saas-Fee.
Fink says the facilities are not only aimed at visiting sports teams,
A photograph of Saas-Fee circa 1916. On the left,
you can see the original Grand Hotel Belle Vue.
but also a great opportunity for locals. “If you are serious about sport,”
he continues, “this is the perfect place to train.“
The refurbishment has left practically no stone unturned, and
the whole building now shines with new splendour. However, there
are one or two things that have been left untouched, for the better.
The exceptional hospitality will, of course, remain a cornerstone. As
will its renowned restaurant, Caesar Ritz. Many of the Ferienart’s
employees too have been carried over, so regulars will be sure to see
some familiar faces.
Walliserhof Grand-Hotel & Spa*****
Dorfweg 1, Saas-Fee
+41 27 958 19 00
walliserhof-saasfee.ch
34
Fink, the hotel’s new director, knows and appreciates hotel’s long history, and its
importance to the village. But he wants to shift the focus: “It‘s not just about me and
my team, or even the Walliserhof. It‘s about Saas-Fee – the whole town succeeds
together!”
35

THE REX REBORN
Saas-Fee has a new arts centre. The old
Rex cinema has been carefully redesigned,
and from 7th December 2019, a wide
cultural offering will be coming to the
glacier village.
Text: Christoph Gysel
Photo: Puzzle Media
In a delightful stroke of luck for Saas-Fee, German theatre actor, director
and producer Michael Klemm has settled in the Saas Valley. And he’s
not just here to enjoy his retirement with wife Nadja and dog Jonny. No,
he wants to make waves, to bring something big to this special town.
As a true man of the theatre, he has come with a vivid vision:
“Our mission in Saas-Fee should be to offer quality entertainment,
complete with a surprise or two. Above all, we want to give locals and
guests alike a cultural hub, one that they might not expect to find at
1,800 metres up.”
The beautiful natural surroundings and welcoming people are
what drew the Klemms to the Saas Valley in the first place. Their
story is reminiscent of that of the great writer Carl Zuckmayer, who,
like Michael Klemm, came from Rheinhessen and found a home in
Saas-Fee.
Programme
7 th December–22 nd December
The Little Prince (8 performances)
31 st December–2 nd February
She’s So Lovely (12 performances)
14 nd February–1 st March
Road to Woodstock (10 performances)
13 th March–22 nd March
Singer and Songwriter Music Festival
30 th March–5 th April
Film festival
Michael Klemm has big plans for The Rex as a new cultural centre in Saas-Fee.
The reopening of The Rex is due to take place on 7 th December, following
completion of the renovations. In addition to a refurbished auditorium,
they’ve added a charming new bistro for guests to enjoy, as well as
backstage areas with dressing rooms and a technical preparation
area. Owners Egon and Barbara Lehner, and operations manager
Michael Klemm are looking forward to presenting a broad cultural
offering to guests and locals alike. At The Rex you can look forward
to plays, films, concerts, and book readings. The first play, “The Little
Prince,” will be the curtain up for the new venue on 7 th December 2019.
Local professional actor Gabriel Zurbriggen will also be in attendance.
The new 165-seat Rex will be a perfect place to get together,
with its variety of theatrical and musical performances as well as the
very best of film. To experience such diverse cultural offerings amid
the highest four-thousanders is quite unique – just one more reason
to visit the Saas Valley.
36 37

39

EHC Saastal has been playing in the First
Division for 32 years. The club is the last in
Switzerland still training under open skies.
Get close enough to smell the action
EHC Saastal’s legendary home arena, Wichel, is one of a kind. It’s
an outdoor rink, making the club the only first division side in the
country still playing under open skies. And it’s the closest you’ll
ever be to the action. So close, that you can see every detail, the
puck, the players. You’re almost close enough to smell the stars in
action. So it’s no wonder that the Wichel rink is ranked among the
top 10 cult sites in the world of Swiss sport.
You can buy tickets for the ice
hockey games directly at the
evening box office at Wichel. For
game dates please consult
ehc-saastal.ch
I have always admired the EHC Saastal
ice hockey players. They are top-level
athletes who fear no opponent and
shy from no weather. Ice hockey itself
is thrilling. The combination of speed,
skill, and fighting spirit is hard to match.
Of course, the older and slower one
becomes, the faster these athletes seem
to fly across the rink as the puck flicks
from one player to another.
A visionary ice hockey president
As a small mountain valley with limited resources, the fact that this
Saas team plays in the first division is truly remarkable. Numerous
dedicated people are making it happen, including their unrelenting
president, Barbara Anthamatten. The board, the ice rink staff, the
cooks, the coaching teams and many more all play a huge role
in their success. The president is one of many who dream of a
home rink where games could be played whatever the weather.
An indoor rink could also offer holiday-goers an indoor alternative
for bad weather days. After a short meeting with the unrelenting
Club President, one is convinced that that this is far more than a
pipedream, within just a few years of becoming a reality.
The various EHC Saastal teams are made up of more than
160 players of all ages. The fact that this small mountain club has
been able to keep its place in the first league for an admirable
32 years has much to do with its superb youth programme which
currently boasts a total of six EHC Saastal youth teams... in a valley
of just 3,000 inhabitants.
The woman who made ice hockey history
EHC Saastal is an exceptional ice hockey club in many ways: it
has its famous open-air ice rink; it has a female president, a rare
thing even nowadays; and its goalkeeper is Sophie Anthamatten,
now 28. She is the female goalkeeper of a first league team. For 13
years, the president’s daughter has stood guard in the Saaser goal.
She won the bronze medal with the Swiss Women‘s Team at the
2012 World Championships and again in the 2014 Olympic Games.
Then, at the beginning of last winter, she became the first woman
to score in the Swiss Cup against a National League club (Geneve-
Servette), thus writing her name in the ice hockey history books.
A must-visit
An ice hockey match under open skies, up close and personal,
is certainly an experience not to be missed. But the legendary
Wichel rink offers so much more than the chance to enjoy thrilling
matches. During the day the ice is open for guests; and if it takes
your fancy you can enjoy a spot of curling, the oldest of the ice
sports, with games organized by the tourist board.
AN IMPRESSIVE SPECTACLE
The Saas Valley offers countless opportunities
to enjoy the ice, including watching
high-level sport. “Wichel” is the name given to
the storied outdoor ice rink in Saas-Grund.
Text: Christoph Gysel
Photos: Puzzle Media
Barbara Anthamatten, Club President, makes it all happen.
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41

SAAS-FEE’S MAGICAL CHRISTMAS MARKET
Winter in Saas-Fee is picture-perfect:
sun-kissed and blanketed in snow,
it’s magical. The sixth edition of the Christmas
market brings out the charm in the
village square, with its twinkling lights, vibrant
colours, and amazing aromas.
Text: Nicole Bielander
Photo: levin.studio
The market, which takes place on the third weekend of advent
each year, is a very special event. Exhibitors at this crafts market
offer lovingly handcrafted products. Sisters Erika Zurbriggen
and Bernadette Bolli can be found at their neighbouring stands.
Erika sells her mother‘s colourful hand-knitted SUN caps, handcarved
models of animals like the local black-headed sheep and
goats, wooden angels, and ornate wooden nativity scenes carved
by her husband. From mid-November to the end of the year, she
also exhibits her original nativity scenes in Sun Flower, her shop
in Saas-Grund. Meanwhile, her sister Bernadette offers natural,
organic products such as ointments, tinctures, herbal salts and
herbal tea, the ingredients for which she forages with her mother.
Foraged natural products featuring local alpine plants can
also be found at several other stands, including that of Trudy Senn.
Visitors will also find hand-knitted scarves and crocheted headbands
which can be individually personalised. At the Wollnadelfee
(knitting fairy) stand, an assortment of products awaits eager
shoppers, including woollen and textile accessories as well as
greeting cards.
Of course, there are all sorts of delicacies to tempt visitors’
tastebuds too. Pierre-André Schwab, for one, offers home-made food,
including fine terrines. Beyond that, the market has plenty of freshly
baked goods like pear strudels and even home-brewed liqueurs.
This winter, wander from stand to stand, browsing for
presents and other goodies. For the little ones, there will be a
children‘s cinema, storytelling, and face painting available on both
days. They also have the chance to paint their own shopping bags
or create glittery paper stars, which is sure to get them in the
Christmas spirit. The market is open from 4 pm on 13 th and 14 th
December.
13 th /14 th Dezember
from 4 pm
saas-fee.ch/wiehnachtsmaert
shopping paradise
saas-fee
A REAL
GIFT IDEA
At the Christmas market, you’ll find unique
gifts, all handmade and special.
Surprise your loved ones with a gift voucher from Shopping Paradise Saas-Fee.
Valid to spend in all Shopping Paradise Saas-Fee partner establishments. The
vouchers, worth CHF 10.-, 20.-, 50,-, and 100.- are available for purchase by cash
only at the Saas-Fee Tourist Office.
42 43

THE TIRELESS PASTOR
Tourism pioneer. Hotelier. Mountain guide.
Botanist. Father Johann Josef Imseng
(1806-1869) filled the winter months with
scientific work that is still admired to this day.
Text: Christoph Gysel
Photo: Saastal Tourismus AG
The Saas Valley’s pioneer of tourism never saw winter as an excuse
to take a break. Even when he had no guests to entertain, Father
Imseng kept himself busy. He goes down in history as the firstever
skier in the Alps. On 20 th December 1849, the valley pastor,
who was living in Saas-Fee at the time, fastened two boards to his
mountain boots and skied down to Saas-Grund as quickly as he
could to care for a dying man.
But that wasn’t all. Father Johann Josef Imseng was also a
scientist and he used the less busy winter months for numerous
research projects. Canon Berchtold of Sion inspired him with his
works, and as time went by, Imseng spent more and more time on
his research. He studied the formation of the Saas Valley’s glaciers,
their historical ebb and flow and the impact of these changes
on the topography of the Saas Valley. He catalogued the various
geographical features of the Saas Valley: its mountain ranges,
passes, glaciers, and alps. The valley floor and its villages and
hamlets were also noted down. He logged the various paths as well
as what land was cultivated, and uncultivable, as well as examining
the forests in depth. He described each village in detail and noted
the location of each building within.
The pastor also knew the ins and outs of the Saas Valley’s
flora and its healing properties like no other. He was a great scientist
of the time. In fact, many of his works are still relevant today, some
of which can be found in the ‘Saaser Chronicle’. Imseng, a treasured
natural scientist. A theologian true to his faith. A great person, and
still an inspiration today.
Dorfweg 1
3901 Saas-Fee
Improve your Health and Fitness in the heart of the Swiss alps
24 Hours Open Gym | Personal Training | Group Trainings
www.crossfit-saas-fee.ch
info@crossfit-saas-fee.ch
Find us at Hotel
Walliserhof Grand-Hotel & Spa
An oil portrait of the young Pastor Johann Josef Imseng (1806-1869).
According to the owner, both the artist and date are unknown.
The memorial exhibition marks the
150 th anniversary of Pastor Johann
Josef Imseng’s death:
Old Rectory Altes Pfarrhaus,
Saas-Grund
8:30 am to 8:00 pm
pfarrer-johann-josef-imseng.ch
The exhibition book is available
from all tourist offices in the valley.
SAASTAL
WITH LOVE
44
erlebnisbank.ch/liebe
45

Christoph’s column
THE THINGS GLACIERS LEAVE BEHIND
As the glaciers retreat, they reveal their
hidden secrets. Discover the intriguing and
macabre stories our glaciers have to tell.
With the BLS Lötschberg
Car Transport to the Valais
The retreating glaciers reveal extraordinary things. Objects can be
transported in glacial flow for decades on end. Until one day, what’s
been trapped is finally released along with the summer meltwater.
We’ve found all sorts. In the past, backpacks full of cigarettes have
emerged, dumped in crevasses by smugglers on the run from the
law. In 2018, a propeller emerged on the Gauli Glacier; it turned out
to be part of a Dakota which crashed back in 1946. The passengers
all survived; the plane, however, got snowed in and disappeared
into the ice for more than 50 years.
Last year, the Valais History Museum in Sion hosted an
exhibition titled “Icy memories – vestiges in danger.” The book
“400 Jahre im Gletschereis” (400 years in glacier ice) describes
a particularly special find: the belongings carried by a mercenary
who is believed to have fallen into a crevasse on the Theodul
Pass near Zermatt back in the 17th century. Among a collection of
personal items, the find included his sword, several knives, coins, a
pocket watch, and a small shoehorn…
The glaciers can reveal some truly incredible - and sometimes
eerie - things: munitions of war, smuggled goods, mountain equipment,
even corpses that have spent decades locked in the ice.
I discovered references to this phenomenon and more during
my studies of old Walser legends. It was only around 200 years ago
that mountaineering came to grow in popularity and enterprising
Englishmen together with young, courageous locals began to climb
the Valley’s four-thousanders. Before then, even the inhabitants
of mountainous regions avoided the perils of the mountains and
their glaciers wherever they could. Because up there, it was said,
lived evil spirits and demons – thousands upon thousands of them,
banished to the neverending glaciers to pay for their misdeeds.
It’s one thing for the glaciers to retreat and reveal the secrets
hidden within. Aeroplane propellers, knives, coins, and cigarettes
are not particularly alarming. Corpses are certainly more sinister.
But if you believed spirits and demons trapped in the ice might
suddenly be freed, that could give you a real fright...
Of course, local superstitions are no longer as widespread
today as they were in the past. I certainly don’t know anyone who
would reject their thirteenth month’s salary...
Christoph Gysel, President of the Saas-Fee/Saastal Tourism Association and Pastor of
the Reformed Church of the Saas Valley. Photo: levin.studio
Timetable changes owing to
refurbishment work:
bls.ch/autoverladloetschberg
46
47

CUISINE
Eating in the Saas mountains
50
Valais pear fondue with air-dried beef
Beetroot and ginger soup 53
52
Pumpkin gnocchi with sage butter 56
How a poor man’s soup
became a gourmet classic
57
The Steinhütte Längfluh (front) and Längfluh
mountain restaurant (back). Find out
what is served in each on the next page. Picture: Finnegan Laver
48
49

EATING IN THE SAAS MOUNTAINS
What is a day on the slopes or hiking in the
mountains without stopping off for a warming
pick-me-up somewhere local? The Saas ski
area and its most popular winter hiking trails
are home to a plethora of places to warm up
and enjoy a delicious meal.
Text: Lotti Blum
SAAS-FEE
Revolving restaurant Allalin
Situated at 3,500 metres above sea level, it is the highest revolving
restaurant in the world. It offers both regional and international
cuisine served in front of the ever-changing backdrop of the
surrounding mountains. This winter, the chef’s specials include the
Saas beef tartare with rye bread and pickles, Saas veal stew with
Genepi and potato mash, and gnocchi in cheese sauce, with celery,
cabbage and walnuts. We’d also recommend Grosi‘s ‘first-aid kit’
for dessert, perfect for those with a sweet tooth.
+41 77 459 30 71
drehrestaurant@saas-fee.ch
saas-fee.ch/drehrestaurant
Opening hours:
Daily 9 am–4 pm
Mountain restaurant Alpenblick
This restaurant, with its beautiful terrace, can be reached on foot
from Saas-Fee, even in the winter months. A favourite haunt of
famous German author Carl Zuckmayer, the Alpenblick is known
for its Swiss cuisine and homemade cakes. The tasty Saaser sausage,
made with meat from local Eringer cattle, served with rösti
and apricot chutney is an absolute must-have.
+41 76 539 32 78
info@alpenblick-saasfee.ch
alpenblick-saasfee.ch
Britannia Hut
Opening hours:
11 th December to 26 th April,
9 am–5 pm
Closed Tuesdays, except for
24th & 31st December
The Britannia Hut, at 3,030 metres above sea level, is one of the
most visited SAC huts. Hut manager Dario calls it „the hut that
never sleeps.“ As well as the terrace with its magnificent views of
the surrounding mountains, the hut offers guests röstis, fondue, and
cakes. In winter, it is around an hour and a half hike to the hut from
the top of the Felskinn cable car. Those with skis or snowboards can
reach the hut via the t-bar lift to Egginerjoch in about 15 minutes.
+41 27 957 22 88
info@britannia.ch
britannia.ch
Opening hours:
from 5 th March
daily, all-day
Mountain restaurant Felskinn
This mountain restaurant serves a variety of homemade dishes and
offers a sheltered terrace with panoramic views at 3,000 metres
above sea level. It can be reached via the Alpin Express and Felskinn
cable cars.
+41 79 231 27 58
bf3000.saas-fee@gmx.ch
+41 27 957 14 19
info@morenia.ch
Opening hours: subject
to cable car operating hours
Mountain restaurant Gletschergrotte
This cosy, traditional restaurant has a beautiful sun terrace. It can
be found in the Spielboden area, right next to the piste. Offerings
include typical Swiss cuisine, seasonal delicacies and a selection
of cakes. Winter specialities include house-smoked venison
carpaccio, Valais “Cholera” (a savoury stuffed puff pastry), the
mega burger, and new for this winter, a veggie burger.
+41 27 957 21 60
info@gletschergrotte.ch
gletschergrotte.ch
Mountain restaurant Terminus Plattjen
The Terminus Plattjen mountain restaurant is located at the
summit of the Plattjen gondola 2,570 metres above sea level. It
offers a combination of Swiss and international cuisine. Whether
you choose to sit in the restaurant or on the terrace, to make the
most of its view of the surrounding four-thousanders, you can feast
on tortilla wraps, burgers, and cheese fondue made with a secret
house-blend of cheeses.
+41 27 957 15 16
lodigiani@plattjen.com
plattjen.com
Mountain restaurant Hannig
Opening hours:
daily from 9 am to 5 pm (hot
food served until 4 pm)
Opening hours: from 21st
December subject to the Plattjen
cable car operating hours
The restaurant at 2340 metres above sea level is a popular
destination for winter hikers and sledging fans. Enjoy a fondue, a
currywurst or a nice dessert on their panorama terrace with views
on the surrounding mountain peaks and the town of Saas-Fee
Opening hours:
from 21 st December subject to
cable car operating hours
Steinhütte Längfluh
Soups, and hot and cold snacks can be found at the Längfluh
mountain hut. The large terrace offers fantastic views of the valley
and the Fee Glacier, as well as the peaks of the Mischabel chain.
+41 79 417 68 16
laengfluh@saas-fee.ch
Opening hours:
Mountain restaurant Längfluh
This self-service restaurant with a terrace sits at 2,870 metres
above sea level and offers both international and traditional Swiss
cuisine. Enjoy the unique view with a plate of fresh meatloaf, crisp
salads, and tempting desserts. There’s plenty on offer with a daily
changing menu.
+41 79 417 68 16
laengfluh@saas-fee.ch
+41 27 957 18 81
info@morenia.ch
morenia.ch
from 21 st December to 19 th April
subject to cable car operating
hours
Mountain restaurant Morenia
Opening hours:
from 21 st December
8:45 am to 4:15 pm
This large restaurant, known for its spacious terrace, sits right in
the middle of the Saas-Fee resort, at 2,550 metres above sea level.
A self-service restaurant, it offers a huge selection of hot dishes
and a generous salad buffet.
Opening hours:
Mountain restaurant Spielboden
daily from 8:30 am to 4:30 pm
This restaurant, with its scenic sun terrace, offers an ever-changing
winter and spring menu. Dishes range from trendy poké bowls with
rice or quinoa to more simple meat and vegetable dishes and even
a seafood Bolognese. Barbecues in the snow and various other
events evenings guarantee an unforgettable visit to Bergrestaurant
Spielboden.
+41 27 957 22 12
spielboden.ch
SAAS-GRUND
Mountain restaurant Hohsaas
Opening hours: 8:30 am to 4:15
pm, from 21 st December
On this mountain restaurant’s sun terrace, which sits at 3,200
metres, you will be spoiled with a selection of cold and warm Valais
specialities. Whether you are looking for an overnight break during
a long mountain hike, or you want to be the first to hit the slopes in
the morning, this restaurant has the cosy rooms to make it happen.
+41 27 957 29 45
+41 78 789 07 87
info@hohsaas-bergrestaurant.ch
hohsaas-bergrestaurant.ch
Opening hours: subject to the
cable car operating hours
Weissmies hut
The Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) Weissmies hut at 2,726 metres above
sea level is situated on the west side of the Lagginhorn. It is the
starting point for a number of tours, and can be reached by marked
trails from the Kreuzboden and Hohsaas cable car stations. House
specialities include Saaser [italics] meat soup and spaghetti with
wine and cheese sauce.
+41 27 957 25 54
huette@weissmieshuette.ch
weissmieshuette.ch
Panorama restaurant Kreuzboden
Even at 2,400 metres above sea level, this restaurant can be easily
accessed via the gondola from Saas Grund. On the terrace, you
can enjoy delicious homemade tarte flambée, with toppings of
mushrooms, and classic or vegetarian options. All of this comes
alongside stunning views of the Mischabel chain. The chef
recommends the “hot stone” grilled meat.
+41 27 957 29 45
hohsaas.ch
Opening hours: 14 th and 15 th
and from 21 st December to
26 th April from 9 am–3:30 pm
Opening hours:
from 14 th December
restaurant.kreuzboden@hohsaas.info daily from 9 am to 4 pm
SAAS-ALMAGELL
Mountain restaurant Alpina
This restaurant, located in the hamlet of Furggstalden at almost
1,900 metres altitude, offers Valais specialities and home-cooking
style dishes such as cordon bleu on its scenic sun terrace. On night
sledging evenings it hosts themed dinners from 7:00 pm to 9:45 pm; on
“Game Evening,” for example, they serve meat hunted by their team.
+41 79 607 33 10
info@bergrestaurant-alpina.ch
Bergrestaurant-alpina.ch
saas-fee.ch/nachtschlitteln
Opening hours: subject
Mountain restaurant Furggstalden
to the cable car operating times
This rustic mountain hotel, restaurant and terrace is located in the
middle of the Saas-Almagell ski area. The menu includes fondue
chinoise (meat fondue), and bourguignonne, as well as steaks
cooked on an original Beefer high-temperature grill, which cooks
meat to perfection at 800°C. A shuttle service is available upon
request for guests visiting after the chairlift has closed.
+41 27 957 55 55
landenmatt61@gmail.com
furggstalden.ch
Mountain restaurant Heidbodme
Opening hours: from 21 st
December to 29 th March, subject
to the cable car timetable or by
prior agreement by telephone
This restaurant’s terrace, positioned at 2,400 metres above sea
level, offers a unique panoramic view over the Saas Valley. The
house speciality is rösti, of which there are in 18 different varieties
on offer. Raclette and fondue are also definite favourites. Corporate
and family events, including torchlight skiing and snowshoe hikes,
can be arranged on request.
+41 79 174 02 20
olapawelczak@yahoo.de
Opening hours: 9 am
to 4 pm from
21 st December to 29 th March
50
51

VALAIS PEAR FONDUE WITH AIR-DRIED BEEF
BEETROOT AND GINGER SOUP
Ingredients
1 shallot
80g
mushrooms
80g
sliced Valais Trockenfleisch
(air-dried beef )
1 large pear
1 tsp butter
400g
Valais Bergkäse
(mountain cheese)
400g
strong Emmental cheese
2 tbsp corn starch
500ml Valais white wine, for example,
Fendant or Johannisberg
1 glass pear schnapps
1 tbsp lemon juice
400g
ground pepper to taste
whole grain or white bread,
cut into bite-sized chunks
Method
Finely chop the shallot, slice the mushrooms, cut the dried meat
into thin strips and slice the pear into small cubes. Roughly grate
the cheeses.
Heat the butter in a fondue pot, add the shallot and saute for a few
minutes. Then add the mushrooms, dried meat, and pear, and cook
for two to three minutes. Remove from the heat and keep warm.
Add the cheese to the hot fondue pot along with the cornstarch
and mix. Then add the wine and lemon juice, and continue to stir,
bringing the mixture to a gentle simmer before reducing the heat.
Continue to simmer, stirring well until all the cheese has melted.
Add the pear schnapps and season. Serve the fondue immediately
on its gas burner, adding the warm shallot mixture as a topping. If
eating with children, you can replace the wine with non-alcoholic
cider (or dry apple and pear juice) and leave out the schnapps.
Photo: Shutterstock
Ingredients
1 tbsp olive oil
1 red onion, roughly chopped
1 clove garlic, roughly chopped
1 ½ tbsp ginger, roughly chopped
750g
cooked beetroot, in cubes
1 ¼ litres water
1 tsp dukkah (spice mix)
1 tsp salt
2 tsp fresh lemon juice
To garnish
crème fraîche or cream
40g
pecans
2 tbsp flax seeds
4 tbsp sugar
½ tbsp fresh lemon juice
Photo: Shutterstock
Method
Start by dry roasting the nuts and flax seeds in a frying pan over
medium heat. Then add the sugar and lemon juice and continue to
cook until the sugar has dissolved and coated the nuts. Promptly
transfer the nuts to a sheet of baking paper, spread them out and
leave them to cool. Once chilled, roughly chop the candied nuts.
Heat the oil in a pan and then add the onion, garlic, and ginger.
Sauté the mixture until the onions are translucent, then add the
beetroot, and sauté for a couple of minutes. Add the water and
bring everything to a boil. Season with the dukkah and salt, and
simmer over low heat for about 20 minutes. Just before it’s done,
add the lemon juice and simmer for a few more minutes. Puree the
soup before serving in bowls. Garnish with some crème fraîche (or
cream) and the candied nuts.
52
53

54
55

PUMPKIN GNOCCHI WITH SAGE BUTTER
Ingredients
700g
pumpkin
2 tbsp olive oil
½ tsp
salt
350g
flour
50g
grated parmesan
1 egg yolk
1 pinch cinnamon
1 pinch nutmeg
pepper
30g
butter
20 fresh sage leaves
Method
parmesan
Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius. Cut the pumpkin (skin
on) into chunks approximately three centimetres thick. Add them
to a bowl with some oil and salt, mix well and spread evenly over a
baking tray lined with baking paper. Bake for about 30 minutes in
the centre of the oven.
Once cooked, press the hot pumpkin with its skin still on through a
potato ricer and leave it to cool.
Add the flour, parmesan and egg yolk to the pumpkin puree and
season with cinnamon and nutmeg, mix, then knead well until the
mixture forms a smooth dough.
Then, on a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a long, thin
sausage shape approximately one and a half centimetres in diameter.
Cut each roll into pieces about one centimetre long. Roll
each piece of dough over the prongs of a fork, using your thumb
to create a grooved pattern in the gnocchi. Set the gnocchi to one
side on a floured surface until you are ready to cook it.
To cook the gnocchi, place them in gently boiling salted water until
they rise to the surface. Remove the gnocchi with a slotted spoon
and let them dry.
Finally, heat the butter in a frying pan and add the gnocchi along
with the sage leaves. Fry everything together for around five
minutes.
HOW A POOR MAN’S SOUP BECAME A GOURMET CLASSIC
Saas meat soup: an insider tip for gourmets.
This Saas speciality has grown somewhat
more luxurious than it was in the past, and
even more tempting than ever.
Text: Christoph Gysel
Photo: Shutterstock
Some dishes which have been traditionally thought of as paupers’
fare have grown to become culinary classics. The most obvious
local examples are Valais raclette and cheese fondue. In earlier
days, when farmers returned to their alpine pastures for the summer
and found dried out cheeses from the previous year in their huts,
there was no way they were letting the old cheese go to waste.
In these times of extreme poverty, a ‘waste not, want not’ thrift
was key: nothing edible was thrown away. Even if the cheese had
hardened so much that a knife wouldn’t do, even if only a hatchet
would go through it. In that case, the pieces of hacked apart
cheese would be placed in a pan and heated over the fire until
they melted. This was where our beloved fondue originated, eaten
with jacket potatoes. If the cheese simply couldn’t be chopped, the
whole wheel would be held over the fire. The melting cheese could
then be scraped off and eaten alongside potatoes. The result was
what we now call a raclette. Born out of necessity in poorer times,
these dishes became well known and loved.
The history of Saaser Fleischsuppe (Saas meat soup) of the past
is somewhat distant from what we enjoy today. Calling it meat soup
at all back then was certainly stretching the definition of meat. The
Saas folk of the past used every single part of the animals they
slaughtered, even using the bones several times over. They added
rock-hard bread to the ever-thinner bouillon. So hard, in fact, that
it had to be chopped with a “Brothacker” (a kind of axe). Some sort
of dry cheese or possibly a cheese rind followed. At times, they
might also add some potatoes. The soup of the poor was filling if
not much else.
Today, Saaser meat soup is a speciality. It can be found in
various restaurants in the Saas Valley but it’s starkly different from
the old days. Today‘s gourmet chefs use high-quality bouillon, fresh,
pillowy bread and delicious cheese blends. I wanted a detailed
recipe for this Saas delicacy to publish in this magazine, but none
of the chefs I asked would tell me theirs. Trade secret. They all
admitted to using bouillon, bread, and cheese, but that was the end
of the conversation.
So those of you wanting to discover this traditional Saas
speciality have no choice but to go out and try it for yourselves.
This author would be grateful for your recommendations.
Serve with parmesan to taste.
Photo: Shutterstock
56
57

ACTIVE
High up the ice wall
Ice climbing in the Saas Valley
The ever-changing path
A special experience: glacier trekking
62
Snowshoeing on glacial moraine
60
64
FAMILIES
Kian the Dragon’s Adventureland for kids
Kids’ Days/Kids’ Week
69
68
Photo: Finnegan Laver
59

HIGH UP THE ICE WALL
In January, the world’s best ice climbers
compete at the Ice Climbing World Cup in
Saas-Fee. But the Saas Valley’s ice walls
have plenty to offer for beginners as well as
the professionals.
Text: Patrick Gasser
Photos: Saastal Tourismus AG
For the athletes participating in the UIAA (Union Internationale
des Associations d‘Alpinisme) World Cup (run by the International
Climbing and Mountaineering Federation), the Saas-Fee stop is
the highlight of the annual event calendar. Nowhere else can the
spectators get so close to the action. The atmosphere is legendary,
and so is the afterparty. This winter, on the 24th and 25 th January
2020, the multistorey car park in Saas-Fee will once again become
a cathedral to climbing. Hundreds of spectators will hang on
every moment as the athletes take on the 32-metre-tall ice wall
found in the belly of the multistorey car park. The cheering crowd
can be almost deafening at times. During the 2019 edition, they
nearly raised the roof when Swiss competitor Yannick Glatthard
took to the wall, eventually winning the event in the face of stiff
competition from Eastern Europe and Asia. “The atmosphere here
is sensational. I‘ve never experienced anything like it,” the 21-yearold
said in his winner‘s interview.
Beginners welcome
Having seen the pros in action, you’re bound to want to try ice
climbing for yourself. And there are more than 20 ice walls in the
Saas Valley with varying difficulty levels and plenty to challenge
even the most experienced climbers. But for beginners, the walls in
and around the Saas-Fee multistorey car park are extremely popular.
These sheltered walls also provide an ideal place to practise at
night and when the weather is bad. The best way to start is with
lessons. Local mountain guides provide support and show you how
it’s done, sharing the most important tips and tricks. Fun comes
first but there’s no denying that climbing is a challenge, especially
for beginners. But that makes it all the more satisfying when you
do finally master the ice.Ice climbing equipment and techniques
differ significantly from rock climbing, though a climbing harness
and rope are still essential. An ice axe in each hand and crampons
on your feet provide purchase on the ice.
MISTRAL
HOTEL RESTAURANT SAAS FEE
REGIONAL - SEASONAL - FRESH
Reservation: +41 (0) 27 958 92 10, www.hotel-mistral.ch, info@hotel-mistral.ch
Chalchofen: an icy paradise
Directly behind the cable car station in Saas-Grund, you will find
the Chalchofen ice climbing garden. This is another great place
with plenty of options for beginners to take their first steps.
Although, the secured top rope routes offer plenty for intermediates
and advanced climbers too. Thanks to floodlights, the routes here
are good to be climbed well into the evening. And under the lights,
the icy walls shine in all their glimmering glory.
Ice Climbing World Cup
24 th /25 th January, car park Saas-Fee
saas-fee.ch/ice-climbing
at
HOTEL BRISTOL
Contact the local mountain guide
offices for more information about ice
climbing in the Saas Valley.
INFO / REGISTRATION +41 78 790 13 98
FOLLOW US
YOGA HOUSE SAAS-FEE
YOGAHOUSESAASFEE
Every year, in January, the world‘s best athletes compete in
the Ice Climbing World Cup. It all takes place on the 32-metre-tall ice wall
in Saas-Fee’s multistorey car park.
STUNDENPLAN / TIMETABLE
HOTEL-BRISTOL-SAAS-FEE.CH
60

THE EVER-CHANGING PATH
The Saas Valley mountains offer a rare
opportunity to get close to glaciers. A guided
mountain tour on the Fee Glacier
is the perfect way to get even closer.
Text: Patrick Gasser
Snow crunches under our snowshoes.
From a distance, we are but specks on the
huge field of white that is the Fee Glacier.
Precipitous walls of ice tower overhead,
shimmering like giant sapphires.
The glaciers have been a big part
of life in the Saas Valley for centuries.
Back in the 1930s, schoolchildren would
hack off chunks of our ice giants to take
back to the village in wicker baskets and
sell to the local hotels to keep things
cool. Eventually, though, electricity
and refrigerators made this practice
redundant. Every summer, shepherds
redirected the glacial meltwater to their
pastures. Such artificial flooding kept
the meadows green and the soil fertile,
thanks to the nutrient-rich sediments
the meltwater transports.
Unending fascination
For the glaciers, winter is a time of rest and recovery. The meltwater
that flows down from the valley via the Vispa and Rhone rivers to
the Mediterranean stops flowing. Meanwhile, the snow builds up,
metres deep under our snowshoes. And just as energy bars keep
us going on a tour of the glacier, snow re-energizes and replenishes
the glacier. Locals and guests alike remain unwaveringly fascinated
with the ice world, year-round. Luckily for many, the ski slopes on
the Fee Glacier remain open almost all year. As a result, Saas-Fee
is one of the most important summer training bases in the world for
winter sports professionals.
A victim of climate change
Our glacier tour takes us to the quieter parts of the glacier, away
from the pistes and the usual hustle and bustle of aprés ski which
is already well underway in the village below. The only sounds we
can hear are our footsteps and the rhythm of our own breathing. It’s
an oasis of calm at the foot of the Mischabel chain. But despite the
silence, the Längfluh mountain restaurant is in sight. There, we’ll
enjoy a generous Walliserteller (a selection of Valais specialities)
and a refreshing glass of white wine.
They’re a way of life, a vital resource, and so much more.
Beyond being the much-loved subject of many a tourist’s photo,
these ice giants are an indicator that our planet is warming, and fast.
In the 1860s the Fee Glacier reached down into the valley, where
the Felskinn cable car station sits today. Since then, the ice sheet
has been disappearing. The worldwide retreat of glaciers has been
accelerating in recent years. In fact, ETH Zurich‘s measurements
show that during just a few weeks of the hot summers of 2017 and
2018, Swiss glaciers lost as much as two to three percent of their
remaining mass.
For a tour please contact one
of the local mountain guide offices.
saas-fee.ch/bergfuehrer
After a short rest, we resume our trek. A thunderous roar in the
distance pierces the silence. An avalanche has been triggered
by the fierce midday sun. The tumbling snow plunges down the
cliffs of the Täschhorn, coming to a halt on the upper slopes of the
glacier. That will nourish the glacier during the draining summer
months.
A formative experience
The ice on the Fee Glacier is still up to 80 metres thick. It’s one
of those places you can truly feel the power of nature. Mountain
guides offer guided tours over the ice year-round. The starting point
for these glacier explorations is at the Längfluh mountain station.
And thanks to the new gondola, it only takes about 20 minutes
to reach the 2,800-metre-high station from the village. Just a few
metres after setting off from that point, you leave the prepared
ski slopes behind. The tour leads between glistening columns of
ice and over crevasses which must be carefully navigated. Many
of these crevasses are more than 20 metres deep, and often, you
need a trained eye to even know they’re there. This route is far too
dangerous to attempt without a mountain guide.
The entire group is roped together via harnesses, with the
guide in the lead. Like a colourful pearl necklace, we navigate the
crevasses as one. Later, at home, we spot ourselves in the images
captured by Längfluh webcam. Thanks to the experience of today’s
mountain guides, this trip over the Fee Glacier is accessible even
for those without any prior experience. Nevertheless, the tour,
which lasts approximately two hours, does require a good level of
physical fitness.
The glacier is constantly moving. It flows slowly but steadily
downwards towards the valley. The friction that results from the
ice’s movement over the rocky mountainside distorts these powerful
rivers of ice, birthing deep crevasses and giant ice towers. Rarely
does one feel as small as when travelling through this bizarre ice
world. One thing is for sure, a journey over the Fee Glacier is an
experience you’ll never forget.
Glacier tours let you experience
the Fee Glacier first-hand. Photo: Adrian Myers
Local mountain guides lead you safely through the
maze of crevasses. Photo: Stefan Kürzi for Bergwelten
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SNOWSHOEING ON GLACIAL MORAINE
We're hiking from Kreuzboden to the
Hohsaas mountain restaurant on snowshoes;
enjoying the fresh powder on the sunny
side of the Saas Valley, and a coffee at the
Weissmies Hut.
Text: Jeannine Zubler
Photos: Puzzle Media
The snow crunches underfoot. Now
and then, laughter drifts towards us
from the ski slopes. I stop for a moment,
squinting in the sunlight. Huge mountain
peaks, freshly covered in snow, tower in
every direction, topped by a clear blue
sky – not a cloud in sight. As I continue,
the terrain gets steeper and I adjust
my climbing equipment to make my
progress comfortable. My destination,
the Weissmies Hut, is in sight. The hourlong
walk has flown by.
The snowshoe trails in the Saas
Valley are well marked with regular
signposts along the entire route. A map
is always a good idea though, if only
for the extra peace of mind. If you want
to start your walk in the sun, take the
gondola to the Kreuzboden and start
from there. But if you’d prefer to log a
bit more vertical, you can always begin
your walk in the valley.
A pitstop at the Weissmies Hut
Roberto, the manager of the hut, serves up Alpine rösti and Saas
soup on the sun terrace, choice fuel for the walk ahead. We’ll need
the energy for the final climb! But we don’t let the impending workout
stop us from sampling his homemade Genepi. Here, at the Weissmies
Hut, skiers, snowshoers and sunbathers come together to indulge.
The Weissmies Hut sits at 2,726 metres above sea level. Built
in 1894 as a mountain hotel, it was always an ambitious project,
dreamt up before the convenience of cable cars and helicopters.
As a result of financial difficulties, the hut was later taken over by
the Olten arm of the Swiss Alpine Club. Since then it has served
as a refuge for climbers and hikers and has been both expanded
and renovated several times. The old hut still stands, a reminder
of simpler times; we revel in our modern-day luxury as we sip
elderberry cordial on the sun terrace.
Your efforts are rewarded with incredible views of 18 four-thousanders.
Do not forget avalanche equipment and warm
clothing. Snowshoes can be
rented from local sports shops.
Snowshoeing in the high alpine
Despite the avalanche kit, my backpack weighs next to nothing – I
don’t need much in the way of provisions today. We climb higher,
under perfect views of the Lagginhorn and Fletschhorn, the trail
leading through the glacial moraine. Recent high winds have swept
away much of the recent snowfall, leaving us from time to time to
search for patches of snow between the rocks. Our guide Enzio
points towards the Lagginjoch, from there you can see as far as Italy.
But today we’re headed for the Hohsaas mountain restaurant with
its unbelievable views of eighteen four-thousanders, the end of this
stretch provides a brilliant viewpoint for watching skiers whizz by
on the Trift Glacier.
Our final destination, though, is the 3,200-metre-high
Hohsaas mountain restaurant, just a few hundred metres away.
The former mountain hut is a modern mountain inn nowadays with
panoramic windows, a restaurant and accommodation for skiers
and mountaineers.
We sit down for a well-earned round of celebratory drinks
on the Hohsaas sun terrace and enjoy the view of the snowy
Weissmies. The vista beggars belief and we wait for the final lift of
the day to return to the valley
This snowshoe tour can be easily adapted to suit any
level of experience and fitness.
Some sections of the tour can be completed by gondola.
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65

FAMILY WINTER IN THE SAAS VALLEY
Valais is known as the most family-friendly
canton in Switzerland – and we aim to live up
to that reputation. In addition to the many
kids’ activities offered by local ski schools, the
tourist office hosts its fantastic Kids’ Days.
Photo: Vernon Deck
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67

KIAN THE DRAGON’S ADVENTURELAND FOR KIDS
KIDS’ DAYS
KIDS’ WEEK
13 th /14 th December
27 th December
19 th February
Christmas Market, Saas-Fee
from 4 pm
Dorfplatz (village square), Saas-Fee
Kids’ programme:
saas-fee.ch/weihnachtsmarkt
New year’s crafts party
1:30–3:30 pm
Kreuzboden, Saas-Grund
Carnival party, Saas-Fee
4–5 pm
face painting, Town hall
This year, Bergbahnen Hohsaas (lift company) will be running
special kids’ weeks especially for children (up to year of birth 2014).
The price includes:
−5 days of ski lessons including ski equipment rental and ski
passes;
−5 days of kids’ lunches in either the Kreuzboden Restaurant,
Hohsaas Restaurant, or in the Weissmies Hut;
−for the youngest kids, 5 days of daycare in the Hohsi-Nest nursery
at Kreuzboden.
The 5-day programme costs CHF 70.- per child.
28 th February
10 th April
5–6 pm
Kids’ disco, Dorfplatz
Visit Kian’s Adventureland
1:30–3:30 pm
Furggstalden, Saas-Almagell
Easter egg painting
4:30–6 pm
School hall, Saas-Fee
Registration at the Tourist Office until
11.00 am on Friday, 10 th April
+41 27 958 18 58, CHF 5.- / child
13 th January–17 th January
20 th January–24 th January
09 th March–13 th March
Snowsports School Saas-Grund
+41 79 689 67 55
skischule@saastal.ch
!
saas-fee.ch/kidsdays
Kian‘s Adventureland is an attraction for the whole family.
The Furggstalden ski area above Saas-Almagell is home to Kian the
Dragon. He’s built an adventure park right next to the nursery slope,
where you can ski amongst the dragons, penguins, lions and other
animal friends. And the fun doesn’t stop there. At the end of the run,
you can visit the teepee, and the ball pool as well. Don’t miss the
children’s films on show in the igloo, or the free snow tubing track
where the whole family can race down the slope on huge rubber
rings. There are also children‘s Skidoos available every day from
1:30 to 3:30 pm: seven laps of our special track cost CHF 5.-. For
the really little ones, there is a playground with a merry-go-round
and comfortable seating for the adults.
Kids and adults alike can also enjoy Kian‘s treasure hunt. Collect
a treasure map for CHF 6.- at the mountain railway in Saas-
Almagell, to help locate the five treasure chests hidden around the
Furggstalden ski area. Find them all and you can pick up your prize
from the lift station.
Every Wednesday is face painting day, where our littlest
guests get the chance to transform into magical creatures.
Meet Kian in the ski area, where you might also encounter his
friends, Papa Smurf, and Stuart the one-eyed Minion. Kian will be
there giving out sweets two or three times each week – perhaps
it’ll be your lucky day!
Entry to the adventure park is free
with your ski pass.
saas-fee.ch
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69

MOUNTAINS
Events by
the cable car companies
140 kilometres per hour on ice and snow
The Glacier Bike Downhill experience
The greatest ski race in the world
The 38 th Allalin race in Saas-Fee
Nothing is impossible
The Mentelity Games Saas-Grund
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82
76
80
The views of the Mischabel chain from Hohsaas are spectacular.
Photo: Christof Schmid
70
71

EVENTS BY
THE CABLE CAR COMPANIES
Fondue gondola
A delicious fondue, fine wine, tea and a tasty dessert to finish,
just what you would wish for in any high-end restaurant. But no
restaurant quite matches up to the atmosphere in this night-time
gondola ride. The experience lasts a good hour, during which time
you are served a rich fondue under the candlelight. The views over
the moonlit mountains with the village of Saas-Fee lit up below are
unforgettable.
The family-sized gondola, which caters for two adults and
up to four children, is furnished with toys to keep the little ones
entertained. For couples, this candlelit gondola makes for a perfect
romantic fondue night for two.
Sunrise skiing
Experience a mountain sunrise at a vantage point of 3,500 metres
above sea level while you holiday in Saas-Fee. Early morning
wake-up calls are worth it to watch the first sunbeams of the day
illuminate the Mischabel chain; and when you get to be the first to
lay tracks on the freshly groomed slopes.
Once at the top, you can enjoy the sunrise from the
Drehrestaurant (revolving restaurant) and take in the scenery
before your descent. Their rich breakfast buffet offering perfectly
complements the incredible views and the sunrise to cap it off.
Please remember that reservations are required for breakfast.
Events begin at 6:30 pm at the
Spielboden valley station.
Details can be found at
saas-fee.ch/fonduegondel
Meet at the Alpin Express valley station.
Times and dates at
saas-fee.ch/sunriseskiing
Free Heel Festival Vol. 3
From 13 th to 15 th March 2020, Bergbahnen Hohsaas (lift company)
brings you the third annual Free Heel Festival. Test out the latest
telemark skis from the mountain test centre where the biggest
brands will be ready to tempt you with all the new gear. Newcomers
can get a feel for the world of telemarking with taster courses, while
the more experienced can make the most of Saas-Grund‘s slopes
with tours led by professional guides. At the sunset après-ski event,
you can end your day with a drink or two with fellow snow lovers.
Full moon skiing
Full moon skiing is about more than just skiing under the light of
the full moon. After your ascent from Saas-Fee to Mittelallalin at
5:30 pm, a Valais tasting menu awaits you at the Drehrestaurant
(revolving restaurant). Dinner comprises creative takes on
traditional Valais specialities presented by the chef. From the
restaurant’s prime position at 3,500 metres above sea level, this is
a unique opportunity to enjoy the magnificent 360-degree views of
the surrounding scenery under the moonlight.
The highlight is, of course, the night-time descent from
Mittelallalin. For that, we recommend taking a head torch with you.
If you’d prefer not to ski in the dark, you can always take the lifts
back down to the village at 8:30 pm. Make sure to book in advance,
as there are limited places for dinner at the revolving restaurant
info@hohsaas.info
hohsaas.ch
Night sledging
Sledging is typically a daytime activity, but here in the Saas Valley,
you might just discover it’s even more fun by night. Before setting
off for your sledge ride through the snowy forests into the village,
you can rejuvenate in one of our mountain restaurants with a
delicious fondue. Night sledging can be enjoyed in Saas-Almagell,
Saas-Fee, and Saas-Grund. Please keep in mind that for some runs,
booking in advance is required. Don’t forget your head torch!
saas-fee.ch/nachtschlitteln
Events begin at 5:30 pm
at the Spielboden valley station.
Details can be found at
saas-fee.ch/vollmond-skifahren
Night skiing
Saas-Grund will be extending its hours to make night skiing available
on three Tuesdays this February. The cable cars in Saas-Grund will
run until late at night and you can navigate the freshly groomed upper
slopes by the light of your head torch. Begin the evening with fondue
in the Kreuzboden mountain restaurant before returning to the
slopes. The pistes from Kreuzboden back to Saas-Grund are floodlit,
so you can enjoy a relaxed descent through snow-covered forests.
info@hohsaas.info
hohsaas.ch
72
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75

140 KILOMETRES PER HOUR ON ICE AND SNOW
When the starting pistol sounds for the Glacier
Bike Downhill, more than 200 people
jump on their bicycles and tackle the ski slopes
from Mittelallalin to Saas-Fee. Mountain
bike guide Kyle Harris explains.
Text: Yolanda Josephine Bond
Photos: Puzzle Media
“Before the starting pistol fires, a deathly
quiet reigns. Nobody moves. The only
sound is the icy wind swirling around us
and the thumping of my own heart. The
atmosphere is electric as we wait for
the moment. The Mischabel chain looms
overhead, the course we are about
to descend veering round to the right
beneath her. A mixture of fear, excitement
and anticipation hangs in the air.
Then the gunshot rings out and
everything changes in an instant. The
charge to our bikes begins, every one
of us howling and shouting like warriors
entering the fray. But the chaos around
me fades into the background. I’m in
race-mode, it’s just me and the bike.
Within seconds of the start, one rider is
catapulted over his handlebars right in
front of me. In my periphery, I can see
dozens of crashes and I’m thinking: “If
so many riders are crashing at this point,
what about further down? What about
when we’re charging down the red run
at upwards of a hundred kilometres an
hour on ice and snow?”
My first Glacier Bike Downhill experience
Kyle Harris, 27, took part in the race for the first time two years ago.
He’s been riding mountain bikes since he was just eight years old
and has been racing for the past six. But a downhill race on snow
and ice was a totally different prospect. In the Glacier Bike Downhill,
participants race over glaciers and snow from Mittelallalin at 3,500
metres down to Saas-Fee, reaching speeds up to 140 kilometres
per hour. The record time for completing the 8.4-kilometre-long
downhill is an impressive 7.1 minutes.
All the riders start the race simultaneously but in three
waves, with a safe distance between them to minimize the risk of
crashes. “I was nervous, for sure. I love to ride fast and have a lot
of experience on bikes. But I had no idea how to control one at up
to 140 kilometres per hour – and on snow,” says Kyle, remembering
his first experience. Although the racers can do a practice run the
day before the race, the real thing is never quite the same. “I had
certainly never ridden my bike straight down the fall line on a ski
run before – practice day was my very first time. But it went ok. I‘m
a pretty good mountain biker, I can pretty much ride anything, on
normal dirt at least. I figured that with my experience I’d be able to
handle the snow fine,” he explains.
Spectacular scenes and sporting excellence are on the menu at the Glacier Bike Downhill.
For three years now, Kyle has been a mountain bike guide in Saas-
Fee. That means that in the summer, at least, he’s on his bike
practically daily. “With a few turns of the test run, I picked up ‘the
basics‘ pretty quickly, learning what you need to do to ride on snow.
Turning is pretty different from normal, you have to position your
body weight properly for it to work. And you can’t use the front
brake as much as you normally would either, else you lose control.
You have to tilt your bike slightly and use your feet to drift around
corners. It‘s not easy. And I didn’t have it totally dialled down after
practice either, I crashed pretty hard in the last race,” laughs Kyle.
The race covers 8.4 kilometres;
the fastest biker on record finished in just 7.1 minutes.
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“It’s a feeling unlike any other, a real
adrenaline rush.”
DISCOVER THE
IMPRESSIVE COLORS
OF PEARLS
AND RADIANT
DIAMONDS.
Mountain bike guide Kyle Harris, 27, advises newcomers to prepare well for the
race and to stick with a speed they are comfortable with, don‘t try to exceed your own
riding skills.
Glacier Bike Downhill
14 th March
+41 27 958 11 00
bergbahnen@saas-fee.ch
saas-fee.ch/glacierbike
Riding down red runs
In spite of everything, he was raring to go again last year but
unfortunately, the race had to be cancelled at the last minute
because of heavy snowfall on race day. The Glacier Bike Downhill
is dangerous, but not always, says Kyle. “If you ride fast like me,
you can crash hard – it’s true. I did, three times, and the last one
was a big one. I was turning hard and slid out. I took out a crash
barrier... with my head. Luckily I had a helmet on. After that, I was
pretty slow to the finish, it was too much for me, “he confesses. But
in spite of the big crash and last year’s cancellation, he’s looking
forward to the next race in March. “It‘s just unbelievably fun, and
even for experienced bikers like me it‘s a challenge – that‘s the
attraction. Where else could you bike on red runs, snow, and ice?
It’s a feeling like none other, a real adrenaline rush.”
Tires and tire pressure
For those who want to race, but have little experience or have
never ridden on snow, Kyle advises you practise on a beginner‘s
slope or a small hill. Above all, it’s crucial to learn how to brake and
how to turn, because both are pretty different from normal riding.
“It’s also important that riders know what kind of tires they need
and what tire pressure works best. And of course, to make sure you
have protective gear like pads and a helmet. The key is to stick to
speed you’re comfortable with, and don’t try to exceed your own
riding skills. If you do that, you can’t go wrong,” says Kyle.
www.gellner.com
EXPERIENCE THE
ICE PAVILION SAAS-FEE
REVOLVING RESTAURANT ALLALIN
SAAS-FEE.CH/EISPAVILLON
www.bijou-abgottspon.ch
78

THE GREATEST SKI RACE IN THE WORLD
Come March, it’s that time again. Downhill
fever grips the town, as the world’s craziest
race returns. The legendary Allalin Race
traverses the glacier pistes of Saas-Fee.
Text: Christoph Gysel
Photo: Saastal Tourismus AG
This is the 38 th edition of the Allalin Race
in Saas-Fee, and it’s still the highlight
of the year for many passionate skiers.
The first-ever Allalin Race took place
in 1946 when nine young skiers set off
from the 4,027-metre-high summit of
the Allalin and raced towards Saas-
Fee, 2,227 metres below. Only five
riders completed the unpisted route to
the finish. Nowadays, the racecourse is
perfectly groomed and more than 1,000
people took part in last year’s “ Volksabfahrt”
(peoples’ race).
As racers charge towards the finish line they reach top speeds of
more than 140 kilometres per hour. The extremely demanding Allalin
Race is probably the longest glacier race in the world, descending
from 3,600 metres to the village of Saas-Fee, which sits at 1,800
metres above sea level. With even the professionals’ thighs burning
by the time they reach the finish line, it’s a tough physical test for
all. Even those taking part in the fun race for teams, face a big
challenge – but as one exhausted participant put it at the finish line
last year: “It’s the greatest ski race in the world.”
Of course, a historic race like this has produced more than
its share of legends. Jonas Bumann, the downhill race president,
tells us of one man who crashed so hard on the first day of racing
that he was hanging from the safety nets, but came back on the
second day and won the thing. Incidentally, the Bergbahnen (lift
company) offers discount lift tickets for racers, to enable them to
train in the days leading up to the race. Spectators also get their
money‘s worth, with musical entertainment provided in the finish
area, where Swiss group ChueLee will also make an appearance.
Allalin Race
27 th /28 th March
+ 41 27 958 11 33
allalin-rennen@saas-fee.ch
saas-fee.ch/allalinrennen
The number of participants is limited.
The course used in favourable weather conditions is 8.7
kilometres long, with racers descending 1,700
thigh-burning metres to Saas-Fee. Photo: Puzzle Media
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NOTHING IS IMPOSSIBLE
From 24 th to 27 th March the Mentelity Games
will take place in Saas-Grund for the second
time. We talk to three para-snowboarders
about their experiences at this winter sports
event for people with disabilities.
Text: Nicole Bielander
Pasta is a popular choice for carbloading
sportspeople. I met three Swiss
para-athletes, Luzia Joller, Gaël Suhner
and Andreas Schroth, one lunchtime for
a plate of the good stuff at Saas-Fee’s
Arvu-Stuba. All three are avid snowboarders,
and they are in the Saas Valley
for the para-snowboard weekend, which
is run three times a year by PluSport.
PluSport is the umbrella organization
of Swiss Disabled Sports which has
around 12,000 members. Joining the trio
at the event are four PluSport coaches.
Luzia, Gaël, and Andreas take
every opportunity they can to get on
the slopes. They participated in the
first Mentelity Games, which ran from
10th to 12th April 2019. The games are
the brainchild of three-time Winter
Paralympic gold medalist and five-time
world champion in para-snowboarding,
Bibian Mentel. They’re all excited to
take part in the games again, with the
Mentelity Games returning to Saas-
Grund for the second time in March
2020. The three-day ski and snowboard
event brings people with disabilities
from all over the world together for
training and workshops.
The first Mentelity Games
Para-snowboarding is a fairly new discipline in Switzerland. Silvan
Hofer is the project manager for para-snowboard at PluSport,
as well as a snowsports instructor and trainer for students and
snowsports teachers alike. He has been building its profile for about
three years now. It was Silvan who encouraged Luzia, Andreas and
Gaël to attend last year‘s Mentelity Games. The event offered skiers
and snowboarders with disabilities a comprehensive choice of
activities and training. At the “ Wissensstrasse” (Knowledge Street),
newcomers were given the chance to figure out which sports they
wanted to try out, and then a program was selected tailored to
the individual disability. During the three-day event, participants
were given lessons, either in ability-matched groups or with private
trainers. They were also informed about further courses run by ski
and snowboard professionals and learned more about the different
disciplines within the sport, like slalom, freestyle and touring.
Andreas, who has been snowboarding in Saas-Fee for
years, whole-heartedly recommends getting involved. “It was quite
a challenge to ride with guides I didn’t know to start with, especially
as they used different snowboarding techniques from those that I
was familiar with. But I benefited greatly and learned a lot.” For
Gaël the highlight was meeting other attendees and he looks
forward to the next Mentelity Games “to see everyone again, it was
so much fun!“ Luzia also had a great time during those first days
in the Saas Valley. All three were assigned to top-level athletes
and Paralympic medalists at the workshops because of their high
level. But, as Luzia humbly puts it, “it’s the coming together that’s
important, not your athletic level. It’s the fun of trying new things
and sharing your tips and tricks. You see on their faces just how
grateful the attendees are for being able to be a part of an event
like this one. I was amazed at what people can do, and motivated
by everyone’s incredible spirit. I think it would be cool if there were
more participants next time.”
Andreas Schroth is marketing manager at the Swiss Association
for the Blind and Visually Impaired (SBV). Photo: Sonja Thöni
Luzia Joller, from Grisons, is an avid para-snowboarder. A serious accident meant that
her left shoulder joint had to be amputated. Photo: Sonja Thöni
Luzia: one bad accident changes everything
Luiza Joller started skiing at the age of two. When her brothers
made the switch to snowboarding, the then six-year-old followed
suit. At twelve, she raced for the first time. Snowboarding became
her life and at fifteen she joined a sports-college in Engadin, to
realize her prodigious talent.
But after an accident in 2010, the graceful woman with the
wild dark curls from Grisons was forced to take a long break. The
former student fell so badly that ultimately, her left shoulder joint
had to be amputated, leaving her disabled. Back and phantom limb
pain have dogged her life ever since. Whilst she lives a relatively
independent life, she needs a little help around the household.
In addition to the consequences of her accident, her ADHD (an
attention deficit disorder) causes problems. I start to notice it when
the salad is brought over. The 34-year-old falters while telling her
story, obviously distracted by the interruption.
In 2017, she got back on a snowboard once more. For a long
time, she’d only ride in her garden. “I was afraid I’d fall over again,“
she recalls. But that very same year, doctors gave her the all-clear
to resume snowboard training. Now she dreams of making it to the
2022 Paralympic Winter Games in Beijing.
Gina van der Werf, from the Netherland, took part in the
first Mentelity Games and on a
sit-snowboard of her own design. Photo: Mathilde Dusol
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Gäel: Born with a disability
At just 12 years old, Gaël Suhner is the baby of this group. He’s
sponsored by PluSport as a junior para-snowboarder. Gaël was
born in Bavaria with a deformity of his hand and arm. But I don’t
notice his impediment as he spears Penne Rigate alla Bolognese
with his fork. The A-grade student comes across as very grownup
for his age. There are only a few situations in which he feels
disadvantaged as a result of his disability. “If, for example, I can’t
do something with my little brother, then I notice it,“ he explains.
His family moved to Switzerland eight years ago. At six
years of age, he started snowboarding – but it’s not his only hobby.
He also sings with the Zurich Boys‘ Choir. Although, a career on
stage isn’t on the cards according to his plans; he wants to be a
maths teacher. “So you can set the homework?” I ask. “Exactly,“
Gaël shoots back, playfully. His grin sets the group off laughing,
before he goes on to explain that “no, really it’s because I like
teaching others and I like mathematics best.“ Time and again he
makes everyone around him laugh. When asked how he balances
his hobbies and training, he replies, “when I’m injured, then I’ll sing
for a bit instead. When I’m not, I go snowboarding... so I actually
end up spending about as much time in the choir as I do on the
piste.”
Mentelity Games
24 th to 27 th March
mentelitygames.com
Andreas: “The biggest hurdle is a lack of
understanding”
Andreas Schroth was born with serious visual impairment. The
30-year-old marketing manager for the Swiss Blind and Visually
Impaired Association (SBV) can only snowboard when led by a
trained adaptive snowboard guide. Away from the piste, Andreas, a
budding home cook, is candid about his limitations: “For example,
I can’t just spontaneously decide to go snowboarding because I
need a guide. There are some hurdles that I can handle better than
others. But when I‘m feeling down, I‘m certainly more sensitive to
obstacles, especially those that I can’t control for myself. One of
the things I’ve found to be the hardest is the job market. When
you apply for a job with a visual impairment, the employer usually
can’t fathom that it might be possible for you to do the job as
well as someone without a disability. Sure, there are restrictions
in graphical work, of course,” explains the Schaffhausen local.
“but with the appropriate aids, things like screen readers and
magnification software, I can do just about anything.”
Three different stories, one shared message
As different as these three para-athletes are, they all share
something in addition to their passion for snowboarding: their
zest for life. Their conviction that nothing is impossible. None of
the three has let their limitations get in their way. Their incredible
skills will be on show again at the second edition of the Mentelity
Games this March - where they will reunite as friends, but also as
competitors on the slopes.
Monique Wijnen, from the Netherlands, enjoyed the first Mentelity
Games, conquering the slopes with her guide Gijs van Heijst.
Photo: Mathilde Dusol
Para-snowboarder Gaël Suhner’s other hobby is singing. He’s
part of the Zurich Boys Choir. Photo: Sonja Thöni
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PISTE MAP
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COMMUNITY
Reader’s letter: Edith Voßen
Dear Editorial Team,
I wanted to congratulate you on the first
edition of ‘4545,’ a remarkable fusion of
the traditional and modern aspects of the
Saas Valley. The magnificent imagery and
design really shone through thanks to the
beautiful finish of the magazine.
This was no vague collation of articles
and inordinate advertisement, just a
true appreciation of what makes the Saas
Valley so special. As a reader, I was captured
by the words, which transported me
back to a place I love.
I picked up a copy by chance at the
bus station as I was departing the village;
a great memento of my two-week holiday
in Saas-Fee. 20 years ago, I was a regular
visitor and relished skiing in Saas-Fee. My
summer visit, all these years later, brought
back great memories...
That is to say, thank you for a wonderful
read, I’ll be back.
Share your experiances with us!
Send us your letters to the editor to
input@saas-fee.ch
If you post something on social
media, hashtag #saasfee
and tag us @saasfee!
Warmly,
Edith Voßen
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IMPRESSUM
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