Explore More Issue 18
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I discovered GUM, the renowned<br />
Moscow department store, which<br />
by the way, has an extensive food<br />
hall to rival Harrods in London.<br />
Our sightseeing route then took<br />
us to the dazzling Cathedral of<br />
Christ the Savior, from where we<br />
crossed the nearby Patriarshy Bridge<br />
to Bolotnaya<br />
Square. The day<br />
ended with a<br />
fabulous Russian<br />
music and dance<br />
performance. We<br />
were entertained with a selection of<br />
classical and folk songs, played with<br />
traditional instruments, and there<br />
was lots of humour in the mix, too.<br />
DAY THREE, MOSCOW:<br />
Having two full days to explore<br />
Moscow turned out to be one of<br />
the best things about this cruise.<br />
We had some free time in the<br />
morning, so my friend and I took<br />
the Russian equivalent of an Uber<br />
(it’s called Yandex. Taxi in Russia, but<br />
can be accessed via the Uber app)<br />
into the city centre. We returned<br />
to GUM so we could browse the<br />
store in more depth, and were<br />
treated to caviar and vodka tastings<br />
as we manoeuvred among towers<br />
of exotic Russian chocolate, local<br />
cheeses and tea, and freshly baked<br />
bread and cakes. We stopped for<br />
lunch at Grand Café Zhivago, which<br />
is situated inside Hotel National, an<br />
elegant, although slightly faded,<br />
old-style hotel. Before dining we<br />
were treated to Samovar service<br />
– small cups of Russian tea were<br />
served with plates of sweet and<br />
savoury pasties. This was followed<br />
by a mouth-watering plate of<br />
Crucian fried carp served in a dill<br />
sauce with slivers of crispy fried<br />
potatoes. A postprandial trip to the<br />
Cosmonaut Museum then enabled<br />
us to trace the history of Russia’s<br />
space exploration, spanning from<br />
the Sputnik era of the late 1950s<br />
to today’s space programme.<br />
As we passed forest-lined shores, the exciting<br />
realisation set in that I was about to embark<br />
on the next step of my Russian adventure<br />
DAY FOUR, THE MOSCOW CANAL:<br />
Today I found myself in the middle<br />
of the Kremlin. The ancient fortress<br />
dates back to the 12th century<br />
and within its walls are stunning<br />
cathedrals, ornate palaces and<br />
museums. After our included<br />
excursion, I took an optional tour<br />
around the Kremlin Armory, which<br />
houses a multitude of priceless<br />
relics, including a collection of<br />
Fabergé eggs once belonging to<br />
tsars and tsarinas. The costume and<br />
carriage exhibition was wonderful,<br />
too, as was the huge collection<br />
of silverware. We were back on<br />
board Viking Akun in time for lunch<br />
and, afterwards, we set sail along<br />
the Moscow Canal, a man-made<br />
waterway that links the Moskva<br />
to the mighty Volga. As we passed<br />
forest-lined shores where small<br />
villages clung to the river banks, the<br />
exciting realisation set in that I was<br />
about to embark on the next step<br />
of my Russian adventure.<br />
DAY FIVE, UGLICH:<br />
It was in Uglich that I had one of<br />
the most immersive experiences<br />
of the cruise. After a walking tour<br />
around the town and its numerous<br />
churches, we visited a Russian home<br />
for tea, cakes and some homemade<br />
hooch. After I had drank at least<br />
two shots, our hostess, Valeriya,<br />
proclaimed, via the translator,<br />
‘please help yourself to more<br />
moonshine’ – a request I will be<br />
dining out on for years to come!<br />
This home visit was very humbling.<br />
Valeriya had baked cakes and<br />
biscuits, and offered us salad freshly<br />
picked from her garden, as well as<br />
homemade gherkins and bread.<br />
While we sipped tea, decanted<br />
from a highly decorative enamel<br />
samovar, she told us about her life.<br />
After graduating from university,<br />
she was ‘sent away’ thousands of<br />
miles from her home, where she<br />
worked until her recent retirement.<br />
She showed us around her small<br />
garden where she grows most of<br />
her own vegetables, but sadly, we<br />
didn’t get to see the still where<br />
the moonshine was made!<br />
DAY SIX, YAROSLAVL:<br />
Today’s port of call was Yaroslavl,<br />
one of Russia’s Golden Ring cities.<br />
Our up-close<br />
excursion in the<br />
morning took us<br />
to Assumption<br />
Cathedral – the<br />
most beautifully<br />
decorated church of the voyage so<br />
far. The interior walls and ceilings<br />
were covered in exquisite murals,<br />
frescoes and icons, which seemed<br />
at odds with the very rustic looking<br />
wooden pews. After our tour we<br />
enjoyed some free time in the local<br />
market and managed to grab a<br />
This page, top<br />
to bottom: Inside<br />
GUM Department<br />
Store; Assumption<br />
Cathedral in the<br />
Golden Ring city<br />
of Yaroslavl<br />
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK<br />
58 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2019<br />
056-063_EM<strong>18</strong>_KarenBoothRussia.indd 58 05/11/2019 11:08