Boker Barbers Corner | BUSA Edition 2020

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12 BÖKER MANUFAKTUR SOLINGEN CONSTRUCTION AND MANUFACTURING The forge and hardening shop for our carbon steel straight razors uses the proven silver steel, which is very tough and elastic, despite its excellent edge retention. The raw material is a rod which is cut to length, creating the so called splitter. The splitter is heated until red hot, and drop forged with a 1,500 lb rammer. Next, the slugs have to cool to 392°F for two days in an annealing furnace. Then the excess material created during the forging process, the "wings," are trimmed. The slugs are once again straightened in a 200-ton press, before going to the hardening shop. In the hardening shop, the slugs are belly lies in front of the strong hollow section and just behind the edge, which has a small hollow grind itself. The belly is the only way in which the blades can be ground out so thin and still retain sufficient stiffness, despite their elasticity. There are only a handful of the best and most specialized grinders in the world that have mastered this ultimate skill in straight razor production. Depending on the model, the last step is the matting or polishing of the blade. Finally, the blade is honed by hand on several bench whetstones with increasingly finer grits. After the final stropping, the sharpness of the straight razor is tested on a freely suspended human hair. The scales department manually affixes nickel silver pins, washers, and spacers to the blades. Wood and stag require special dexterity, as these natural materials can tear when too much pressure is applied. hardened and annealed in order to achieve the optimal combination of edge retention and elasticity for the material. In the grinding shop, the extra hollow grind with belly is created. The slugs are ground in 18 individual steps, from rough grinding, to milling, to glazing. Between each step, the blades are cleaned, controlled, and straightened when necessary. We exclusively grind our straight razor blades extra hollow with belly. The
BÖKER MANUFAKTUR SOLINGEN 13 CONSTRUCTION AND MANUFACTURING POINT/HEAD SPINE ETCHING/LASERING CROSS SECTION OF BLADE SHOULDER TANG STAMP TANG/SHANK HOLLOW EDGE BELLY PIVOT PIN SCALE SCALE INLAY SPACER PIN TANG DIFFERENT BLADE WIDTHS (ORIGINAL SIZES) 4/8“ BLADE 5/8“ BLADE 6/8“ BLADE 7/8“ BLADE WIDTHS AND HEADS The shapes of straight razors are mainly determined by national and local traditions and personal preferences. However, the different shapes have different benefits. The widths of the blades are given in inches. An 8/8" blade is one inch wide, a 4/8" blade half an inch wide. The 5/8" blade is the most common width. Below 4/8", the blades are used mainly by hairdressers to shave the neck, or for contouring. A wide blade glides over the skin more steadily, due to its weight, and can take on more soap and beard hairs before having to be wiped. Narrow blades are better for working on inside curves and contouring. the Spanish point. The round point is the easiest to handle. It is thus very suitable for beginners. The defined edges of the other heads provide benefits for the precise creation of contours. ROUND POINT FRENCH POINT SPANISH POINT There are various point/head shapes as well - the rounded point, the straight point, the French point, and STRAIGHT POINT
Page 1: 2020 EDITION issue N o 3
Page 4 and 5: 4 BÖKER MANUFAKTUR SOLINGEN DAMASC
Page 6 and 7: 6 BÖKER MANUFAKTUR SOLINGEN SHAVIN
Page 9 and 10: BÖKER MANUFAKTUR SOLINGEN 9 COUNT
Page 11: BÖKER MANUFAKTUR SOLINGEN 11 COUNT
Page 16 and 17: 16 BÖKER MANUFAKTUR SOLINGEN BOKER
Page 27 and 28: BÖKER MANUFAKTUR SOLINGEN 27 SCHOR
Page 29 and 30: BÖKER MANUFAKTUR SOLINGEN 29 BOKER
Page 37 and 38: BÖKER MANUFAKTUR SOLINGEN 37 CARE
Page 43 and 44: BÖKER MANUFAKTUR SOLINGEN 43 RAZOR
Page 45 and 46: BÖKER MANUFAKTUR SOLINGEN 45 SHARP
Page 49 and 50: BÖKER MANUFAKTUR SOLINGEN 49 BEARD

Boker Barbers Corner | BUSA Edition 2020

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