Boker Barbers Corner | BUSA Edition 2020

6 BÖKER MANUFAKTUR SOLINGEN
SHAVING WITH A FORGED BLADE
I. PREPARATION OF SKIN AND
BEARD HAIR
Before shaving, skin and beard hair
must be prepared carefully. This
saves both the skin and the blade at
the same time. For this purpose, it is
best to shave right after a hot shower
or apply a hot, wet towel to one's face
for several minutes. Then splash the
skin with warm water.
(see pages 36-37), on a suspended
or mounted strop.
III. SHAVING WITH THE GRAIN
It may be necessary now to re-apply
soap with the wet brush. The foam
has to be kept wet for the duration of
the entire shave. The handle of the
razor is folded back so that the blade
is exposed and forms roughly a right
method they have used up to now.
With more practice and skill, they can
slowly expand the shave to the other
areas of the face.
CAUTION: The elbow stands wide
apart and not in the center of your
own attention. If you bump into
something with the elbow you will
often get a painful cut.
If desired, the skin can also be treated
with shaving oil before the water.
Next, apply the thickly beaten foam
with the brush. The soap should be
left on for at least 2 minutes.
angle with the handle. The handle
is wedged between middle and ring
finger and points away from the back
of the hand. Now push the blade over
the skin along the grain – the direction
in which the beard grows – with
gentle pressure. The angle should lie
IV. SHAVING AGAINST THE GRAIN
After shaving with the grain, you
can change the shaving direction to
against the grain for a deeper and
more thorough shave if desired, and if
your skin can handle it. To do so, wet
the skin again and apply soap.
V. AFTER CARE OF SKIN AND
RAZOR
After the shave, first rinse skin with
cold, clear water. This closes the pores
of the skin and any small cuts. The
razor is dried and oiled as described
in the chapter “Care & Stropping”
(see pages 36-37). Depending on
your preference, you can apply an
aftershave or facial lotion.
II. PREPARING THE RAZOR
While the shaving soap softens the
beard, there is enough time to strop
the straight razor, as described in
the chapter "Stropping & Care"
between 20° and 45°, the exact value
depends on feeling and experience.
Beginners should first shave the
“easy” parts, like cheeks, and shave
the rest of their face with the shaving