Indian Jeweller (IJ) Feb - March Issue

3-6 months to make, with me controlling
every step of the manufacturing. I have a
zero-error tolerance. I therefore can only
make 100-120 pieces a year. Each piece is
one-of-a-kind, designed by me and created
by my artisans in my atelier in Mumbai. I
like to think my pieces are intelligent. They
are always thinking.” Vishal has a soft spot for
spinels from Burmese mines. “They are always
non-treated and come in beautiful hues like
pigeon blood, pink, purple and blue. Spinel is
a very sophisticated and underrated stone with
a historical love affair with India,” he adds.
Vishal participates in a lot of boutique
shows world over – but we don’t see his
work displayed for the Indian audiences
much. We asked him if he believes that his
jewellery doesn’t have a market in India
and he says, “With my slow production and
global commitments, I didn’t have the creative
bandwidth. My pieces found their way into
auctions at Sotheby’s, Phillips and Saffronart
early in the day. I began retailing out of select
boutiques across Europe, America and my
pieces are sold largely by word of mouth. I am
privileged to have a global clientele through
my presence across shows and stores in Europe
and the U.S. I also found patronage in royal
families from the Middle East.” Vishal is now
doing shows in India as well, like the recent
one he did with Saffronart at their gallery in
New Delhi. He has just opened his flagship
store at The Royal Opera House in Mumbai.
“It is such a privilege to be housed in such
an iconic building. Like everything I do, it is
niche and enthralling, I hope.”
High jewellery with rare stones and savoir
faire will always stand the test of time, even
in a tepid economic climate believes Vishal.
“High jewellery in fact becomes more relevant
during market fluctuations, as people may buy
less but will buy quality, as there is a serious
investment and long-term value. Personally
that is what I have noticed with VAK.” Vishal
has an exciting auction season ahead of him
along with design shows in Europe, the U.S.
and the Middle East. “The next one is PAD
Paris. I hope my flagship store in Mumbai will
open doors to a sophisticated Indian clientele
hungry for artisanal jewellery.I also sit on the
committee of the Peabody Essex Museum in
Massachusetts and have been invited to talk
at a couple of museums about my creative
practice.”
Vishal looks for inspiration in buildings
and nature across the world. Older towns
of Europe, palaces and museums across the
world and of course Mumbai, his city, are a
constant source of inspiration. Of course,
Pink Floyd, Salavdor Dali and Jim Morrison’s
book of poems influence his works. What
does the maverick designer do when he is not
designing? “I am a museum and music junkie.
But my mind is always drawing.”
I use minimal
metal to highlight
the boldness of
the gemstones –
they almost float.
A lot of R&D goes
into my work.
I also hire the
best of artisans
and train them
extensively. Often
a piece takes
3-6 months
to make, with
me controlling
every step of the
manufacturing. I
have a zero-error
tolerance
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JEWELLER | february-march 2020 | 105