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The Breeze February 2015

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<strong>The</strong><br />

grape<br />

in high<br />

spirits<br />

By Michael Mavrogordato<br />

One of the reasons many people call Bluffton<br />

home is to escape the cold, but as I write, a<br />

cheerful TV meteorologist is trying to smile her<br />

way through a bone-chilling forecast. According<br />

to her, temperatures will drop to freezing in a few<br />

days, and there is no relief in sight. As your wine<br />

advisor, I could wax eloquent on red wines and how<br />

their food pairings can tame the cold, but frankly, a<br />

quick fix is far more appropriate and brandy comes<br />

immediately to mind.<br />

Brandy (a Dutch word) is an all-encompassing<br />

term for a spirit made from grapes and it is also a<br />

synonym for something that you sip, as opposed<br />

to “chase” down with a shot. Most spirits which<br />

are chased ,such as vodka in Russia (very cold) or<br />

Jagermeister in Germany (tepid), are meant to jolt<br />

the senses, but brandy is another story, because<br />

the good ones caress you on a cold night and don’t<br />

leave you with a hangover. In Bluffton, there are<br />

three types of brandy worth trying: Armagnac,<br />

Cognac and Grappa, the latter being a real stretch<br />

per the definition of a brandy, because it is made<br />

from the stems and detritus of grapes!<br />

Contrary to popular belief, Armagnac is the granddaddy<br />

of them all. In the 13th Century some<br />

enterprising monks (who else!) from Auch (southwest<br />

France) began distilling indigenous white<br />

grapes and aging them in local oak barrels. <strong>The</strong><br />

process involved one distillation and topping off<br />

the barrels on regular basis to replace the “angel’s<br />

share”. Every culture claims to have invented<br />

making booze, but the gentle folk of Auch stake<br />

their claim on customer testimonials, the most<br />

famous of which came from Cardinal Vital du Four,<br />

who in 1313 wrote the encouraging words on the<br />

opposite page!<br />

Need I say more? A very good and obviously<br />

therapeutic Armagnac, Castared VSOP ($39) , can<br />

be found at Bill’s.<br />

Cognac is now the aristocrat of the spirit world.<br />

<strong>The</strong> epicenter of the region, the town of Cognac,<br />

is only 80 miles North of Bordeaux and this helps<br />

explain why their spirit took over the world. Riding<br />

on the insatiable demand for claret ( British for<br />

Bordeaux wines), the English and the Dutch<br />

36

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