Jeweller - August 2020
• Tech’s appeal: Understanding your customers’ e-commerce expectations • Balance of power: Review of retail leases and negotiation in the post-covid environment • Market update: new and bestselling products from leading suppliers
• Tech’s appeal: Understanding your customers’ e-commerce expectations
• Balance of power: Review of retail leases and negotiation in the post-covid environment
• Market update: new and bestselling products from leading suppliers
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News<br />
In Brief<br />
David Allen returns to lead Pandora<br />
Australia; Phil McNutt steps down<br />
Gold price reaches<br />
record high<br />
4 Amid an investor surge, the gold price<br />
has broken its previous record high.<br />
Gold reached $US2,075 per ounce on<br />
7 <strong>August</strong> – exceeding the previous record of<br />
$US1,917, which was set in <strong>August</strong><br />
2011. However, the price has since dropped<br />
back below $US2,000. The gold price<br />
has seen an upward trend throughout<br />
<strong>2020</strong> as a result of uncertainty in other<br />
areas of the world economy.<br />
Record-breaking colour<br />
diamond found in Russia<br />
4Russian mining giant Alrosa has<br />
confirmed that it has unearthed the<br />
largest natural colour diamond ever<br />
found in Russia. The 236-carat rough<br />
– which displays a yellowish orange<br />
colour – was mined at the Ebelyakh site in<br />
Yakutia. Pavel Vinikhin, head of polishing<br />
Alrosa, said the stone was being evaluated<br />
to determine if it would be cut in-house at<br />
Alrosa or sold as rough.<br />
Apprentice competition<br />
revamped for <strong>2020</strong><br />
4Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s has launched its<br />
<strong>2020</strong> Apprentice of the Year Competition,<br />
with key changes. This year, apprentices<br />
have been given a customer brief<br />
including thoughts, ideas, and budget to<br />
reflect the market demand for custommade<br />
jewellery. Entry forms have been<br />
snt to Nationwide members in Australia<br />
and New Zealand. The winner will be<br />
announced in November.<br />
GIA embraces artificial<br />
intelligence<br />
4The Gemological Institute of America<br />
(GIA) is developing an artificial<br />
intelligence (AI) system for diamond<br />
clarity grading, alongside IBM. Pritesh<br />
Patel, chief operating officer GIA, said<br />
AI clarity grading works by feeding<br />
data gathered from GIA’s thousands of<br />
reference stones into a program, which<br />
then is used to ‘train’ algorithms on<br />
how to grade for clarity. The system is<br />
currently being trialled at two GIA US labs.<br />
David Allen – who previously led Pandora Australia from 2012–2015 – has returned to take over management of<br />
the new Pacific regional division, which includes Australia, New Zealand, and Fiji.<br />
As part of Pandora Jewelry’s global<br />
restructuring, David Allen – who led Pandora<br />
Australia between 2012–2015 – will return to<br />
head up the new Pacific regional division, with<br />
current managing director Phil McNutt leaving<br />
the company.<br />
Allen had been based at Pandora’s global<br />
headquarters in Copenhagen, Denmark for the<br />
past five years, where he oversaw its Europe,<br />
Middle East and Africa operations.<br />
Speaking to exclusively to <strong>Jeweller</strong> about his<br />
return, Allen said, “It is wonderful to be back,<br />
Australia is home, and we all missed her very<br />
much. My family and I have had an incredible<br />
life and professional experience abroad and I<br />
will always be truly grateful for the opportunity<br />
that was given to us.”<br />
He added, “One of the first things we did when<br />
we got back was to have a barbecue – not that<br />
we didn’t have barbecues in Denmark, but<br />
there is nothing quite like an Aussie barbecue<br />
on a Saturday afternoon with a cold beer!”<br />
When the restructuring was initially announced<br />
in March <strong>2020</strong>, Allen was confirmed to be<br />
staying with the company in an unspecified role.<br />
Internationally, 180 redundancies were<br />
expected, with Kenneth Madsen, president<br />
Pandora Asia-Pacific, among those leaving<br />
the company.<br />
At the time, a spokesperson for Pandora<br />
Australia told <strong>Jeweller</strong> that McNutt – who was<br />
appointed managing director in January 2019<br />
– would take over as general manager of the<br />
new Pacific regional division, which includes<br />
Australia, New Zealand and Fiji.<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong> also previously contacted McNutt<br />
regarding potential job losses and staffing<br />
changes at Pandora Australia’s head office in<br />
Sydney, but those questions went unanswered.<br />
Pandora Australia’s revenue has declined each<br />
year since 2017. Throughout 2019, revenue<br />
fell by double digits each quarter; the most<br />
significant drop was in the three months to<br />
November 2019, when it fell by 23 per cent.<br />
“It is wonderful to be back, Australia<br />
is home, and we all missed her very<br />
much. My family and I have had an<br />
incredible life and professional<br />
experience abroad”<br />
– David Allen, Pandora Jewelry<br />
It has also undergone something of a<br />
management merry-go-round, having been led<br />
by three different executives: Brien Winther,<br />
who was transferred to Pandora British Isles<br />
after 13 months, Mikael Kruse Jensen, who left<br />
to manage Pandora Northern Europe following<br />
less than two years in the role, and Phil McNutt,<br />
who joined the company from Sunglass Hut in<br />
January 2019.<br />
When asked about the differences between the<br />
Australian and EMEA markets and the changes<br />
in Australia over the past five years, Allen<br />
said, “It is of course very important for me to<br />
understand if and how the market has changed<br />
– as I am sure that it has – and I will invest time<br />
in understanding this. This will in turn help the<br />
team and I understand the role that Pandora<br />
will play moving forward.”<br />
Some industry commentators have noted<br />
that Pandora’s local problems may have<br />
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18 | <strong>August</strong> <strong>2020</strong>