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<strong>Trail</strong>, H Bauer Publishing, Media House, Lynch Wood,<br />

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22<br />

Bristly Ridge<br />

<strong>Trail</strong> heads to Glyder Fach<br />

to take on Snowdonia’s very<br />

own stairway to heaven.<br />

CONTENTS<br />

14<br />

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UK MOUNTAIN<br />

PHOTO <strong>2020</strong><br />

6 Peak of the Month<br />

Cat Bells, everybody’s favourite<br />

mountain in <strong>mini</strong>ature<br />

8 Base Camp<br />

Happenings from high places<br />

10 UK Mountain Photo <strong>2020</strong><br />

Send us your best pics today!<br />

14 Green sketching<br />

The power of nature doodling<br />

16 Nature Notes<br />

Beware of mountain berries<br />

18 Out There<br />

Adventure stories from you lot<br />

20 Everest Anywhere<br />

Can you climb 8848m this year?<br />

60 Mountain Skills<br />

Top advice from <strong>Trail</strong>’s experts<br />

62 Masterclass<br />

What to do if you need rescuing<br />

FEATURES<br />

30<br />

36<br />

Haunted Hills<br />

Planning a wild camp? Then don’t<br />

read this first –it’s time for things<br />

that go bump in the night!<br />

The Rhinogs<br />

They’re rough, wild and the perfect<br />

place to find solitude in Snowdonia<br />

44<br />

Wild<br />

Swimming<br />

The best secret<br />

spots to cool<br />

off in the hills<br />

56<br />

Hot<br />

Topic<br />

Can the<br />

outdoors<br />

really heal? Nature<br />

prescriptions get<br />

debated by the<br />

experts<br />

GEAR<br />

66 FIRST LOOK<br />

Mountain<br />

Equipment<br />

Kinesis jacket<br />

68 BIG TEST<br />

3-season boots<br />

73 Phone protection<br />

74 Base layers<br />

48<br />

Bikepacking<br />

the Lakes<br />

Looking back to one<br />

of <strong>Trail</strong>’s best-ever<br />

mountain adventures<br />

ULTIMATE WEEKENDS<br />

97 Southern Uplands Way, Galloway<br />

101 Cambrian Way, Snowdonia<br />

WALKS OF A LIFETIME<br />

105 Ben Macdui, Cairngorms<br />

BRITAIN’S GREATEST SCRAMBLES<br />

110 Stickle Ghyll, Lake District<br />

42 SUBSCRIBE TO TRAIL<br />

AND GET A FREE<br />

3<br />

LOWE ALPINE<br />

BACKPACK!<br />

4 TRAIL SEPTEMBER <strong>2020</strong> SEPTEMBER <strong>2020</strong> TRAIL 5


Cat Bells is the perfect<br />

mountain in <strong>mini</strong>ature and<br />

the start of a big adventure<br />

on the Newlands Round.<br />

TOM BAILEY<br />

BASECAMP<br />

YOUR ADVENTURE STARTS HERE<br />

100<br />

PEAK<br />

OF THE<br />

MONTH<br />

LAKE DISTRICT<br />

CAT BELLS<br />

Although only added to our #<strong>Trail</strong>100<br />

bucket list during the revisions earlier this<br />

year, with hindsight it’s inconceivable that<br />

the little hill with the big views could ever<br />

have been overlooked. Cat Bells tops out<br />

at a lowly 451m, which would barely make<br />

it more than a lump on a larger mountain<br />

were it anywhere else. But it’s where Cat<br />

Bells is that makes it so special. Rising from<br />

the edge of Derwent Water – just two miles<br />

over the lake from Keswick’s Crow Park as<br />

the bird of the same name flies – Cat Bells<br />

dominates the skyline by virtue of being<br />

the most shapely fell on display. Although<br />

vaguely bell-shaped (if you squint a bit),<br />

it’s possible the name is a distortion of<br />

Cat Bields: Shelter of the Wild Cat. What’s<br />

certain is that being relatively low and close<br />

to the tourist town of Keswick, Cat Bells<br />

has the honour of being the first Lakeland<br />

fell many little legs (and some larger ones)<br />

climb. And with an ascent that involves just<br />

a touch of light scrambling and a breathtaking<br />

summit panorama, it’s a fell those<br />

legs will return to over and over again.<br />

THE UK’S ULTIMATE<br />

MOUNTAIN BUCKET LIST<br />

The <strong>Trail</strong> 100 is our definitive collection of the 100<br />

UK peaks every hillwalker should climb in their life.<br />

Look for the logo throughout the <strong>mag</strong>azine to read<br />

more about some of the greatest mountains on the<br />

list, then start your challenge at lfto.com/trail100<br />

6 TRAIL SEPTEMBER XXXX 2019 <strong>2020</strong> SEPTEMBER XXXX <strong>2020</strong> 2019 TRAIL 7


HOT TOPIC<br />

ARE MOUNTAINS<br />

MORE POWERFUL<br />

THAN MEDICINE?<br />

As ‘nature prescriptions’ are proving, spending more time out hillwalking<br />

might save your life – or at the very least add a few more good years to it.<br />

“I’D LOVE TO<br />

PRESCRIBE PEOPLE A<br />

WEEK OFF WORK TO GO<br />

AND WALK THE WEST<br />

HIGHLAND WAY”<br />

WORDS SARAH RYAN PHOTOGRAPHY TOM BAILEY<br />

You don’t need us to tell you that<br />

going to the mountains is good for<br />

you. Anyone who has surveyed the<br />

view from a summit, been soaked to<br />

exhilaration by a sudden rain, or slept<br />

in a crinkling bivvy under the stars<br />

knows that time in the mountains is<br />

of benefit to body, mind and soul. For<br />

many of us, it’s gone far beyond ‘good for’ and<br />

tipped over into ‘essential’. Well, it looks like it<br />

might soon be available on prescription.<br />

Nature prescriptions were first officially offered<br />

at Scalloway Health Centre, a squat, pebbledashed<br />

building near the top of the long, southpointing<br />

finger of mainland Shetland, between a<br />

small sea inlet and low green hills. Here, alongside<br />

the usual paper bags of pills and medicines, GPs<br />

provided a prescription for activities in nature,<br />

such as going for a walk, naming the islands you<br />

could see from a hilltop or spending three minutes<br />

quietly in your favourite spot. The idea was<br />

instigated by Karen MacKelvie from the RSPB<br />

and picked up by NHS Shetland. You might have<br />

already seen headlines about it – news of the trial<br />

went viral. The project was expanded to all 10<br />

surgeries on the islands, and two years on nature<br />

prescriptions have become a topic of deepening<br />

research across the entire UK. Some of the results<br />

might surprise even the most evangelical of us<br />

hill lovers...<br />

We already know that time in the mountains<br />

can relieve stress and that strenuous exercise is<br />

good for your heart, but the benefits of spending<br />

time in nature go far beyond that. One recent<br />

study from the University of Sheffield has shown<br />

that contact with <strong>mini</strong>scule organisms in the<br />

earth and air, found in greater abundance in wild<br />

places, can help strengthen your immune system.<br />

Professor Catharine Ward Thompson from the<br />

University of Edinburgh states that “scientific<br />

evidence strongly supports the common-sense<br />

notion that good access to green and natural space<br />

supports health in multiple, synergistic ways”.<br />

Another report stated that nature prescriptions<br />

could play an important part in the short and<br />

long-term recovery from COVID-19. Not only<br />

that, but it could save the NHS money. The<br />

Wildlife Trusts found that “for every £1 invested<br />

in regular nature volunteering projects, which play<br />

a part in creating a healthy lifestyle by tackling<br />

problems like physical inactivity or loneliness,<br />

there is an £8.50 social return.”<br />

Nature prescriptions are not yet widely<br />

available, officially anyway, but it might be<br />

worth discussing possibilities with your doctor<br />

if you think it might help. We spoke to some of<br />

the people involved in launching, researching<br />

and using nature prescriptions at work to find<br />

out what’s what. Is being a mountaineer really a<br />

superpower? We always thought so.<br />

<br />

56 TRAIL SEPTEMBER <strong>2020</strong> SEPTEMBER <strong>2020</strong> TRAIL 57


HOT TOPIC<br />

Karen MacKelvie<br />

Community Engagement Officer,<br />

RSPB Scotland<br />

Nature prescriptions were first<br />

launched as a collaboration between<br />

NHS Shetland and RSPB Scotland.<br />

Karen and her team designed the<br />

project, which received a hugely positive response<br />

and is now being expanded across Scotland.<br />

“The nature prescriptions in<br />

Shetland officially started in<br />

October 2018. The whole idea was<br />

that doctors are still the greatest<br />

authority on our health, so if<br />

they tell you to go outside you’re<br />

probably more likely to do it. And<br />

doctors talk about nature with<br />

people who might never expect<br />

that it could help with their health.<br />

“We have an example of a<br />

woman who went into a practice<br />

with a sore stomach. It was stressrelated,<br />

so the doctor said ‘Well,<br />

I can give you this pill or you<br />

can have a nature prescription’.<br />

She tried the nature prescription,<br />

walked every lunchtime and her<br />

stomach came right.<br />

“There is a difference<br />

between social prescribing and<br />

nature prescriptions. In nature<br />

prescriptions we’re seeing nature<br />

as the medicine that doctors are<br />

prescribing, as opposed to a social<br />

prescription which would look<br />

at a lot of aspects of health and<br />

wellbeing. It doesn’t stray away<br />

from nature because the evidence<br />

shows that it’s the actual connection<br />

with the living world that makes<br />

the biggest difference. You can run<br />

outside for miles but not actually<br />

notice the natural world – and that’s<br />

what makes the difference.<br />

“It’s brilliant to see it being taken<br />

up so well. I was on a Sky TV news<br />

channel in a panel of four experts,<br />

which was shown on Channel 6<br />

news in Australia. The Danish<br />

government’s stress committee<br />

wanted the idea, the Icelandic<br />

government wanted to translate<br />

it word for word. It’s obviously<br />

making total sense to people.<br />

“When I went around and spoke<br />

to the surgeries that we were<br />

piloting it in, I found some<br />

doctors have a bias towards<br />

physical exercise, so they think<br />

‘Oh, this will be really helpful<br />

with physical ailments and getting<br />

people more active’. And then<br />

some have a bias towards mental<br />

health, so they’ll think it’ll be great<br />

for de-stressing and depression.<br />

It’s a no-brainer. It helps with<br />

everything. One doctor said, ‘I’d<br />

love to be able to prescribe people<br />

a week off work to go and walk<br />

the West Highland Way’. And that<br />

could happen one day.”<br />

A DOSE OF<br />

NATURE<br />

As part of<br />

the nature<br />

prescriptions,<br />

the RSPB/<br />

Healthy<br />

Shetland<br />

provide a<br />

calendar of<br />

ideas to try.<br />

Here are some<br />

you can try<br />

anywhere in<br />

the hills. Full<br />

list at healthy<br />

shetland.com<br />

n Find the place<br />

or activity that<br />

makes you feel<br />

most at home<br />

in nature.<br />

n Think of a time<br />

when you were<br />

little and felt<br />

a connection<br />

with nature.<br />

n Turn over a<br />

rock and see<br />

what you find.<br />

n Write a worry<br />

onto a stone and<br />

throw it into the<br />

sea or a lake.<br />

Jake Robinson<br />

University of Sheffield<br />

As an ecologist and health researcher,<br />

Jake has published multiple studies on<br />

green prescriptions, documenting the<br />

mutual benefits to people and place.<br />

“The human immune system evolved in relationship with microbes found<br />

in nature and depends on them to function well. These microbes, our ‘old<br />

friends’, help to regulate the immune system and prevent it from attacking<br />

innocuous agents like pollen, dust and our own cells. If the immune system<br />

is not properly educated, without sufficient contact with microbes found in<br />

the environment, we start seeing immune dysfunction and chronic, noninfectious<br />

conditions like diabetes, asthma and inflammatory bowel disease.<br />

“Different microbes have different roles, so it is important to have<br />

exposure to a diverse range, similar to eating a healthy diet providing<br />

different vitamins and minerals. This helps reinforce the microbial<br />

communities on the skin, the airways and in the gut, which are essential<br />

to our health. Vegetation and soil offer a huge variety of microbes and<br />

some produce health-promoting compounds.<br />

“Furthermore, airborne pollutants such as trichloroethene (linked to a<br />

higher risk of autoimmune diseases) are typically much lower in natural<br />

environments. Therefore, natural green and blue spaces provide a buffer<br />

against toxic chemicals, as well as providing health-promoting chemicals<br />

such as the phytoncides emitted by trees.”<br />

Rebecca Pfister<br />

Wilderness Foundation UK therapist<br />

A BACP registered counsellor and<br />

Wilderness Therapist, Rebecca<br />

provides therapy outdoors to help<br />

people manage emotions and<br />

improve mental health and wellbeing.<br />

“As a wilderness therapist and facilitator I have been privileged to<br />

witness the powerful impact that the natural world can have on<br />

individuals’ emotional wellbeing. Studies have shown that even a<br />

little time in nature can alleviate the symptoms of anxiety and mild<br />

to moderate depression. Contact with natural environments decreases<br />

stress, restores attention and enhances self-esteem. It also activates<br />

mindfulness, which is beneficial in increasing self-awareness, selfconfidence,<br />

flexibility and reducing negative thought patterns.<br />

“A hike can give us a sense of achievement, listening to birds can<br />

calm us down, a thunderstorm can help us release built up emotions.<br />

The therapeutic effects of nature compliment and encourage a holistic<br />

approach to personal growth and recovery. Spending times outdoors<br />

reminds us that we are part of something larger than ourselves, giving<br />

us a sense of belonging to a complex system that is as old as our planet.<br />

Nature shows us the way back to our vibrant, true selves, and reminds<br />

us what it means to be alive.”<br />

Dr Honey Smith<br />

GP and Chair of Greener Practice<br />

Greener Practice was set up with the<br />

understanding that human health and<br />

connection with nature each support<br />

and affect the other. Its aims are to<br />

improve health now, protect future health, reduce<br />

inequalities, and improve workload to the NHS.<br />

“90% of the things that determine health are social and environmental,<br />

happening outside the healthcare setting. So if we can address these, we<br />

can have a much bigger impact on people’s health and wellbeing. Green<br />

prescribing is a non-medical intervention designed to improve mental and<br />

physical health specifically through interaction with the natural world.<br />

Many GPs recognise the importance of holistic care, which means taking<br />

into account its physiological, physical, emotional, social, economic and<br />

spiritual aspects. This should include an appreciation that our ability to<br />

be healthy is linked to the health of the planet. Think of air pollution,<br />

which causes 7 million deaths worldwide and 40,000 premature deaths in<br />

the UK. It’s a huge burden which many doctors are very concerned about.<br />

“We know that being active in nature can improve immune function,<br />

partly by reducing chronic stress, which is physiological as well as<br />

psychological. When you’re stressed or in the fight-or-flight response,<br />

levels of cortisol and adrenaline are raised. Blood pressure and heart rate<br />

go up and the body’s sensitivity to insulin is reduced, to make glucose<br />

more readily available. This is really helpful in an immediately dangerous<br />

situation in which you might have to run away or face an attacker. But<br />

if the body spends a lot of time in fight-or-flight, it’s not able to function<br />

A DOSE OF<br />

NATURE<br />

n Follow the<br />

course of a<br />

stream.<br />

n Rewild<br />

one of your<br />

senses – smell<br />

everything in<br />

nature.<br />

n Appreciate<br />

a cloud.<br />

n Notice the<br />

sphagnum moss<br />

under your feet<br />

– this powerful<br />

little plant helps<br />

tackle climate<br />

change.<br />

n Find the<br />

hairiest lichen<br />

within a mile<br />

radius<br />

or heal in the way that is needed<br />

for long-term health. Insulin<br />

insensitivity can put you at risk of<br />

diabetes, and high blood pressure<br />

increases the risk of heart attacks<br />

and strokes. The good news is<br />

that if you address cortisol levels<br />

you can do a lot to mitigate those<br />

effects. Spending time in nature is<br />

one of the many things that can be<br />

done to reduce stress and thereby<br />

improve health.<br />

“Healthcare is also very carbon<br />

intensive, so if we keep people out<br />

of the healthcare system by keeping<br />

them well, we reduce carbon use.<br />

The climate and ecological crisis is<br />

a health crisis – alongside pollution<br />

deaths there are 150,000-250,000<br />

deaths each year worldwide from<br />

global warming effects. Reducing<br />

the use of carbon-intensive remedies<br />

improves planetary health, which<br />

again benefits human health.<br />

“Exercising in nature is cheaper<br />

than going to the gym, it’s socially<br />

inclusive, it’s widely available…<br />

These are win-win solutions and<br />

the benefits for people and planet<br />

are huge.”<br />

58 TRAIL SEPTEMBER <strong>2020</strong> SEPTEMBER <strong>2020</strong> TRAIL 59


3.5km<br />

390m<br />

Grade 1<br />

DISTANCE<br />

ASCENT<br />

SCRAMBLE RATING<br />

GO THERE...<br />

when it’s hot enough for your clothes to dry quickly<br />

BRITAIN’S GREATEST SCRAMBLES<br />

Stickle Ghyll<br />

WORDS BEN WEEKS<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY TOM BAILEY<br />

Perhaps the most fun a grown-up can have with clothes on, this Lake District ghyll<br />

scramble is best saved for a sunny day because – spoiler alert – you’re going to get wet.<br />

LAKE DISTRICT<br />

“THIS ROUTE IS<br />

ALL ABOUT HAVING<br />

CHILD-LIKE, GLEEFUL,<br />

CAREFREE FUN”<br />

It’s sometimes easy to fall into the trap of<br />

thinking that an epic mountain adventure<br />

has to be long, hard and gruelling. But<br />

what about fun? Well, this route is all about<br />

having fun; child-like, gleeful, carefree<br />

fun. You’re going to splash, you’re going to<br />

clamber, you’re going to get soaked, and<br />

you’re going to have a Cheshire-cat grin on<br />

your face the whole time. But let’s back up<br />

a moment; perhaps ‘carefree’ is a step too<br />

far. As with all scrambling, there is the faint<br />

shadow of risk lurking in the background.<br />

This scramble up Stickle Ghyll is for the<br />

most part a harmless exercise in enjoying<br />

life – outdoor activity instructors regularly<br />

escort squealing groups of school kids up<br />

this exquisite Lake District stream. But there<br />

are some steepish rocks to be climbed, often<br />

slick with moss and vegetation, and if there’s<br />

been a lot of rain, the flow of the river can<br />

make it impassable. Common sense can’t<br />

be avoided altogether then. For this reason,<br />

a helmet is a sensible idea, even though the<br />

scrambling difficulties are none too technical.<br />

But that’s enough of this serious talk. As<br />

we said, this is all about having fun. So, with<br />

caution not abandoned but safely stowed in<br />

the back of our minds for now, let’s plunge<br />

on into Stickle Ghyll…<br />

From the National Trust car park in<br />

Langdale, follow the path past the left<br />

1side of the Stickle Barn pub, pass through<br />

a small enclosed meadow and meet the river.<br />

Leave the path, head into the stream bed, and<br />

begin the ascent of Stickle Ghyll with some<br />

easy rock-hopping.<br />

Follow the tree-lined ghyll to the first<br />

obstacle. A twin-funnelled waterfall flows<br />

2over a small rock step which is climbed<br />

up a curving face between the two cascades.<br />

Above, stick to the right bank for a sometimes<br />

tricky (the chunkier tree roots come in handy)<br />

traverse over some deep pools and smaller falls.<br />

After more rock-hopping a small<br />

hydro-electric installation below a<br />

3footbridge is reached. Leave the river<br />

briefly to pass this before returning to the ghyll<br />

for more clambering over some large and<br />

awkward boulders.<br />

You’ll hear the next obstacle before you see<br />

it. A tall, slick looking wall with multiple<br />

4flows of water pouring over it. The driest rock<br />

goes right up the middle. It’s high and potentially<br />

slippery. Handholds are reliable, although the<br />

friction of footholds should be tested before fully<br />

weighting them. Helmets are a must, and novice<br />

scramblers may appreciate the security of a rope.<br />

5<br />

Above, another fall rumbles through a cleft in<br />

the surrounding rock. This is only climbable<br />

if the water is reasonably low, in which case<br />

a careful ascent can be made by following the<br />

driest line (if there is one) and bridging between<br />

the boulders. If the ghyll is flowing high or you<br />

just don’t fancy this challenge, bypass it with<br />

some easier and drier scrambling to the left.<br />

6<br />

After another stretch of boulder-hopping<br />

the final and most impressive section of<br />

falls come into sight. The easiest line and<br />

best rock is to the right, but there are multiple<br />

routes through, and the views back down the<br />

valley are impressive.<br />

Above the falls the river meets the path on<br />

dry land to the right. The options here are to<br />

7return to the pub or car to dry off, continue up<br />

to Stickle Tarn (either on the path or in the ghyll)<br />

to enjoy the views (and possibly some swimming),<br />

or continue the day’s scrambling with an ascent<br />

of Jack’s Rake on Pavey Ark, all with a big smile<br />

on your face (and water in your boots).<br />

M E E T O U R<br />

LOCAL EXPERT<br />

Based in Cumbria, Matt Le<br />

Voi is a Mountain Leader,<br />

Winter Mountain Leader,<br />

rock-climbing instructor,<br />

and founder and company<br />

director of Lakeland Mountain Guides.<br />

Find out more about their services and<br />

events at lakelandmountainguides.co.uk<br />

110 TRAIL SEPTEMBER <strong>2020</strong> SEPTEMBER <strong>2020</strong> TRAIL 111


PLAN<br />

YOUR<br />

100<br />

FUTURE<br />

MOUNTAIN<br />

TRIPS!<br />

THE UK’S ULTIMATE MOUNTAIN BUCKET LIST<br />

Hand-picked by the experts at <strong>Trail</strong> <strong>mag</strong>azine, the <strong>Trail</strong> 100 is the definitive<br />

collection of 100 peaks that every hillwalker must climb in their lifetime<br />

INCLUDING…<br />

BEN NEVIS SNOWDON HELVELLYN<br />

SCAFELL PIKE KINDER SCOUT TRYFAN<br />

BUACHAILLE ETIVE MOR BOWFELL SLIOCH<br />

AN TEALLACH CONISTON OLD MAN BEN MACDUI<br />

GREAT GABLE PEN Y FAN INGLEBOROUGH CADAIR IDRIS<br />

BEN HOPE GLYDER FACH CROSS FELL SKIDDAW THE CALF YES TOR<br />

For detailed descriptions of each peak, digital route guides<br />

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MAGAZINE

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