Trail mini-mag September 2020
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22<br />
Bristly Ridge<br />
<strong>Trail</strong> heads to Glyder Fach<br />
to take on Snowdonia’s very<br />
own stairway to heaven.<br />
CONTENTS<br />
14<br />
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UK MOUNTAIN<br />
PHOTO <strong>2020</strong><br />
6 Peak of the Month<br />
Cat Bells, everybody’s favourite<br />
mountain in <strong>mini</strong>ature<br />
8 Base Camp<br />
Happenings from high places<br />
10 UK Mountain Photo <strong>2020</strong><br />
Send us your best pics today!<br />
14 Green sketching<br />
The power of nature doodling<br />
16 Nature Notes<br />
Beware of mountain berries<br />
18 Out There<br />
Adventure stories from you lot<br />
20 Everest Anywhere<br />
Can you climb 8848m this year?<br />
60 Mountain Skills<br />
Top advice from <strong>Trail</strong>’s experts<br />
62 Masterclass<br />
What to do if you need rescuing<br />
FEATURES<br />
30<br />
36<br />
Haunted Hills<br />
Planning a wild camp? Then don’t<br />
read this first –it’s time for things<br />
that go bump in the night!<br />
The Rhinogs<br />
They’re rough, wild and the perfect<br />
place to find solitude in Snowdonia<br />
44<br />
Wild<br />
Swimming<br />
The best secret<br />
spots to cool<br />
off in the hills<br />
56<br />
Hot<br />
Topic<br />
Can the<br />
outdoors<br />
really heal? Nature<br />
prescriptions get<br />
debated by the<br />
experts<br />
GEAR<br />
66 FIRST LOOK<br />
Mountain<br />
Equipment<br />
Kinesis jacket<br />
68 BIG TEST<br />
3-season boots<br />
73 Phone protection<br />
74 Base layers<br />
48<br />
Bikepacking<br />
the Lakes<br />
Looking back to one<br />
of <strong>Trail</strong>’s best-ever<br />
mountain adventures<br />
ULTIMATE WEEKENDS<br />
97 Southern Uplands Way, Galloway<br />
101 Cambrian Way, Snowdonia<br />
WALKS OF A LIFETIME<br />
105 Ben Macdui, Cairngorms<br />
BRITAIN’S GREATEST SCRAMBLES<br />
110 Stickle Ghyll, Lake District<br />
42 SUBSCRIBE TO TRAIL<br />
AND GET A FREE<br />
3<br />
LOWE ALPINE<br />
BACKPACK!<br />
4 TRAIL SEPTEMBER <strong>2020</strong> SEPTEMBER <strong>2020</strong> TRAIL 5
Cat Bells is the perfect<br />
mountain in <strong>mini</strong>ature and<br />
the start of a big adventure<br />
on the Newlands Round.<br />
TOM BAILEY<br />
BASECAMP<br />
YOUR ADVENTURE STARTS HERE<br />
100<br />
PEAK<br />
OF THE<br />
MONTH<br />
LAKE DISTRICT<br />
CAT BELLS<br />
Although only added to our #<strong>Trail</strong>100<br />
bucket list during the revisions earlier this<br />
year, with hindsight it’s inconceivable that<br />
the little hill with the big views could ever<br />
have been overlooked. Cat Bells tops out<br />
at a lowly 451m, which would barely make<br />
it more than a lump on a larger mountain<br />
were it anywhere else. But it’s where Cat<br />
Bells is that makes it so special. Rising from<br />
the edge of Derwent Water – just two miles<br />
over the lake from Keswick’s Crow Park as<br />
the bird of the same name flies – Cat Bells<br />
dominates the skyline by virtue of being<br />
the most shapely fell on display. Although<br />
vaguely bell-shaped (if you squint a bit),<br />
it’s possible the name is a distortion of<br />
Cat Bields: Shelter of the Wild Cat. What’s<br />
certain is that being relatively low and close<br />
to the tourist town of Keswick, Cat Bells<br />
has the honour of being the first Lakeland<br />
fell many little legs (and some larger ones)<br />
climb. And with an ascent that involves just<br />
a touch of light scrambling and a breathtaking<br />
summit panorama, it’s a fell those<br />
legs will return to over and over again.<br />
THE UK’S ULTIMATE<br />
MOUNTAIN BUCKET LIST<br />
The <strong>Trail</strong> 100 is our definitive collection of the 100<br />
UK peaks every hillwalker should climb in their life.<br />
Look for the logo throughout the <strong>mag</strong>azine to read<br />
more about some of the greatest mountains on the<br />
list, then start your challenge at lfto.com/trail100<br />
6 TRAIL SEPTEMBER XXXX 2019 <strong>2020</strong> SEPTEMBER XXXX <strong>2020</strong> 2019 TRAIL 7
HOT TOPIC<br />
ARE MOUNTAINS<br />
MORE POWERFUL<br />
THAN MEDICINE?<br />
As ‘nature prescriptions’ are proving, spending more time out hillwalking<br />
might save your life – or at the very least add a few more good years to it.<br />
“I’D LOVE TO<br />
PRESCRIBE PEOPLE A<br />
WEEK OFF WORK TO GO<br />
AND WALK THE WEST<br />
HIGHLAND WAY”<br />
WORDS SARAH RYAN PHOTOGRAPHY TOM BAILEY<br />
You don’t need us to tell you that<br />
going to the mountains is good for<br />
you. Anyone who has surveyed the<br />
view from a summit, been soaked to<br />
exhilaration by a sudden rain, or slept<br />
in a crinkling bivvy under the stars<br />
knows that time in the mountains is<br />
of benefit to body, mind and soul. For<br />
many of us, it’s gone far beyond ‘good for’ and<br />
tipped over into ‘essential’. Well, it looks like it<br />
might soon be available on prescription.<br />
Nature prescriptions were first officially offered<br />
at Scalloway Health Centre, a squat, pebbledashed<br />
building near the top of the long, southpointing<br />
finger of mainland Shetland, between a<br />
small sea inlet and low green hills. Here, alongside<br />
the usual paper bags of pills and medicines, GPs<br />
provided a prescription for activities in nature,<br />
such as going for a walk, naming the islands you<br />
could see from a hilltop or spending three minutes<br />
quietly in your favourite spot. The idea was<br />
instigated by Karen MacKelvie from the RSPB<br />
and picked up by NHS Shetland. You might have<br />
already seen headlines about it – news of the trial<br />
went viral. The project was expanded to all 10<br />
surgeries on the islands, and two years on nature<br />
prescriptions have become a topic of deepening<br />
research across the entire UK. Some of the results<br />
might surprise even the most evangelical of us<br />
hill lovers...<br />
We already know that time in the mountains<br />
can relieve stress and that strenuous exercise is<br />
good for your heart, but the benefits of spending<br />
time in nature go far beyond that. One recent<br />
study from the University of Sheffield has shown<br />
that contact with <strong>mini</strong>scule organisms in the<br />
earth and air, found in greater abundance in wild<br />
places, can help strengthen your immune system.<br />
Professor Catharine Ward Thompson from the<br />
University of Edinburgh states that “scientific<br />
evidence strongly supports the common-sense<br />
notion that good access to green and natural space<br />
supports health in multiple, synergistic ways”.<br />
Another report stated that nature prescriptions<br />
could play an important part in the short and<br />
long-term recovery from COVID-19. Not only<br />
that, but it could save the NHS money. The<br />
Wildlife Trusts found that “for every £1 invested<br />
in regular nature volunteering projects, which play<br />
a part in creating a healthy lifestyle by tackling<br />
problems like physical inactivity or loneliness,<br />
there is an £8.50 social return.”<br />
Nature prescriptions are not yet widely<br />
available, officially anyway, but it might be<br />
worth discussing possibilities with your doctor<br />
if you think it might help. We spoke to some of<br />
the people involved in launching, researching<br />
and using nature prescriptions at work to find<br />
out what’s what. Is being a mountaineer really a<br />
superpower? We always thought so.<br />
<br />
56 TRAIL SEPTEMBER <strong>2020</strong> SEPTEMBER <strong>2020</strong> TRAIL 57
HOT TOPIC<br />
Karen MacKelvie<br />
Community Engagement Officer,<br />
RSPB Scotland<br />
Nature prescriptions were first<br />
launched as a collaboration between<br />
NHS Shetland and RSPB Scotland.<br />
Karen and her team designed the<br />
project, which received a hugely positive response<br />
and is now being expanded across Scotland.<br />
“The nature prescriptions in<br />
Shetland officially started in<br />
October 2018. The whole idea was<br />
that doctors are still the greatest<br />
authority on our health, so if<br />
they tell you to go outside you’re<br />
probably more likely to do it. And<br />
doctors talk about nature with<br />
people who might never expect<br />
that it could help with their health.<br />
“We have an example of a<br />
woman who went into a practice<br />
with a sore stomach. It was stressrelated,<br />
so the doctor said ‘Well,<br />
I can give you this pill or you<br />
can have a nature prescription’.<br />
She tried the nature prescription,<br />
walked every lunchtime and her<br />
stomach came right.<br />
“There is a difference<br />
between social prescribing and<br />
nature prescriptions. In nature<br />
prescriptions we’re seeing nature<br />
as the medicine that doctors are<br />
prescribing, as opposed to a social<br />
prescription which would look<br />
at a lot of aspects of health and<br />
wellbeing. It doesn’t stray away<br />
from nature because the evidence<br />
shows that it’s the actual connection<br />
with the living world that makes<br />
the biggest difference. You can run<br />
outside for miles but not actually<br />
notice the natural world – and that’s<br />
what makes the difference.<br />
“It’s brilliant to see it being taken<br />
up so well. I was on a Sky TV news<br />
channel in a panel of four experts,<br />
which was shown on Channel 6<br />
news in Australia. The Danish<br />
government’s stress committee<br />
wanted the idea, the Icelandic<br />
government wanted to translate<br />
it word for word. It’s obviously<br />
making total sense to people.<br />
“When I went around and spoke<br />
to the surgeries that we were<br />
piloting it in, I found some<br />
doctors have a bias towards<br />
physical exercise, so they think<br />
‘Oh, this will be really helpful<br />
with physical ailments and getting<br />
people more active’. And then<br />
some have a bias towards mental<br />
health, so they’ll think it’ll be great<br />
for de-stressing and depression.<br />
It’s a no-brainer. It helps with<br />
everything. One doctor said, ‘I’d<br />
love to be able to prescribe people<br />
a week off work to go and walk<br />
the West Highland Way’. And that<br />
could happen one day.”<br />
A DOSE OF<br />
NATURE<br />
As part of<br />
the nature<br />
prescriptions,<br />
the RSPB/<br />
Healthy<br />
Shetland<br />
provide a<br />
calendar of<br />
ideas to try.<br />
Here are some<br />
you can try<br />
anywhere in<br />
the hills. Full<br />
list at healthy<br />
shetland.com<br />
n Find the place<br />
or activity that<br />
makes you feel<br />
most at home<br />
in nature.<br />
n Think of a time<br />
when you were<br />
little and felt<br />
a connection<br />
with nature.<br />
n Turn over a<br />
rock and see<br />
what you find.<br />
n Write a worry<br />
onto a stone and<br />
throw it into the<br />
sea or a lake.<br />
Jake Robinson<br />
University of Sheffield<br />
As an ecologist and health researcher,<br />
Jake has published multiple studies on<br />
green prescriptions, documenting the<br />
mutual benefits to people and place.<br />
“The human immune system evolved in relationship with microbes found<br />
in nature and depends on them to function well. These microbes, our ‘old<br />
friends’, help to regulate the immune system and prevent it from attacking<br />
innocuous agents like pollen, dust and our own cells. If the immune system<br />
is not properly educated, without sufficient contact with microbes found in<br />
the environment, we start seeing immune dysfunction and chronic, noninfectious<br />
conditions like diabetes, asthma and inflammatory bowel disease.<br />
“Different microbes have different roles, so it is important to have<br />
exposure to a diverse range, similar to eating a healthy diet providing<br />
different vitamins and minerals. This helps reinforce the microbial<br />
communities on the skin, the airways and in the gut, which are essential<br />
to our health. Vegetation and soil offer a huge variety of microbes and<br />
some produce health-promoting compounds.<br />
“Furthermore, airborne pollutants such as trichloroethene (linked to a<br />
higher risk of autoimmune diseases) are typically much lower in natural<br />
environments. Therefore, natural green and blue spaces provide a buffer<br />
against toxic chemicals, as well as providing health-promoting chemicals<br />
such as the phytoncides emitted by trees.”<br />
Rebecca Pfister<br />
Wilderness Foundation UK therapist<br />
A BACP registered counsellor and<br />
Wilderness Therapist, Rebecca<br />
provides therapy outdoors to help<br />
people manage emotions and<br />
improve mental health and wellbeing.<br />
“As a wilderness therapist and facilitator I have been privileged to<br />
witness the powerful impact that the natural world can have on<br />
individuals’ emotional wellbeing. Studies have shown that even a<br />
little time in nature can alleviate the symptoms of anxiety and mild<br />
to moderate depression. Contact with natural environments decreases<br />
stress, restores attention and enhances self-esteem. It also activates<br />
mindfulness, which is beneficial in increasing self-awareness, selfconfidence,<br />
flexibility and reducing negative thought patterns.<br />
“A hike can give us a sense of achievement, listening to birds can<br />
calm us down, a thunderstorm can help us release built up emotions.<br />
The therapeutic effects of nature compliment and encourage a holistic<br />
approach to personal growth and recovery. Spending times outdoors<br />
reminds us that we are part of something larger than ourselves, giving<br />
us a sense of belonging to a complex system that is as old as our planet.<br />
Nature shows us the way back to our vibrant, true selves, and reminds<br />
us what it means to be alive.”<br />
Dr Honey Smith<br />
GP and Chair of Greener Practice<br />
Greener Practice was set up with the<br />
understanding that human health and<br />
connection with nature each support<br />
and affect the other. Its aims are to<br />
improve health now, protect future health, reduce<br />
inequalities, and improve workload to the NHS.<br />
“90% of the things that determine health are social and environmental,<br />
happening outside the healthcare setting. So if we can address these, we<br />
can have a much bigger impact on people’s health and wellbeing. Green<br />
prescribing is a non-medical intervention designed to improve mental and<br />
physical health specifically through interaction with the natural world.<br />
Many GPs recognise the importance of holistic care, which means taking<br />
into account its physiological, physical, emotional, social, economic and<br />
spiritual aspects. This should include an appreciation that our ability to<br />
be healthy is linked to the health of the planet. Think of air pollution,<br />
which causes 7 million deaths worldwide and 40,000 premature deaths in<br />
the UK. It’s a huge burden which many doctors are very concerned about.<br />
“We know that being active in nature can improve immune function,<br />
partly by reducing chronic stress, which is physiological as well as<br />
psychological. When you’re stressed or in the fight-or-flight response,<br />
levels of cortisol and adrenaline are raised. Blood pressure and heart rate<br />
go up and the body’s sensitivity to insulin is reduced, to make glucose<br />
more readily available. This is really helpful in an immediately dangerous<br />
situation in which you might have to run away or face an attacker. But<br />
if the body spends a lot of time in fight-or-flight, it’s not able to function<br />
A DOSE OF<br />
NATURE<br />
n Follow the<br />
course of a<br />
stream.<br />
n Rewild<br />
one of your<br />
senses – smell<br />
everything in<br />
nature.<br />
n Appreciate<br />
a cloud.<br />
n Notice the<br />
sphagnum moss<br />
under your feet<br />
– this powerful<br />
little plant helps<br />
tackle climate<br />
change.<br />
n Find the<br />
hairiest lichen<br />
within a mile<br />
radius<br />
or heal in the way that is needed<br />
for long-term health. Insulin<br />
insensitivity can put you at risk of<br />
diabetes, and high blood pressure<br />
increases the risk of heart attacks<br />
and strokes. The good news is<br />
that if you address cortisol levels<br />
you can do a lot to mitigate those<br />
effects. Spending time in nature is<br />
one of the many things that can be<br />
done to reduce stress and thereby<br />
improve health.<br />
“Healthcare is also very carbon<br />
intensive, so if we keep people out<br />
of the healthcare system by keeping<br />
them well, we reduce carbon use.<br />
The climate and ecological crisis is<br />
a health crisis – alongside pollution<br />
deaths there are 150,000-250,000<br />
deaths each year worldwide from<br />
global warming effects. Reducing<br />
the use of carbon-intensive remedies<br />
improves planetary health, which<br />
again benefits human health.<br />
“Exercising in nature is cheaper<br />
than going to the gym, it’s socially<br />
inclusive, it’s widely available…<br />
These are win-win solutions and<br />
the benefits for people and planet<br />
are huge.”<br />
58 TRAIL SEPTEMBER <strong>2020</strong> SEPTEMBER <strong>2020</strong> TRAIL 59
3.5km<br />
390m<br />
Grade 1<br />
DISTANCE<br />
ASCENT<br />
SCRAMBLE RATING<br />
GO THERE...<br />
when it’s hot enough for your clothes to dry quickly<br />
BRITAIN’S GREATEST SCRAMBLES<br />
Stickle Ghyll<br />
WORDS BEN WEEKS<br />
PHOTOGRAPHY TOM BAILEY<br />
Perhaps the most fun a grown-up can have with clothes on, this Lake District ghyll<br />
scramble is best saved for a sunny day because – spoiler alert – you’re going to get wet.<br />
LAKE DISTRICT<br />
“THIS ROUTE IS<br />
ALL ABOUT HAVING<br />
CHILD-LIKE, GLEEFUL,<br />
CAREFREE FUN”<br />
It’s sometimes easy to fall into the trap of<br />
thinking that an epic mountain adventure<br />
has to be long, hard and gruelling. But<br />
what about fun? Well, this route is all about<br />
having fun; child-like, gleeful, carefree<br />
fun. You’re going to splash, you’re going to<br />
clamber, you’re going to get soaked, and<br />
you’re going to have a Cheshire-cat grin on<br />
your face the whole time. But let’s back up<br />
a moment; perhaps ‘carefree’ is a step too<br />
far. As with all scrambling, there is the faint<br />
shadow of risk lurking in the background.<br />
This scramble up Stickle Ghyll is for the<br />
most part a harmless exercise in enjoying<br />
life – outdoor activity instructors regularly<br />
escort squealing groups of school kids up<br />
this exquisite Lake District stream. But there<br />
are some steepish rocks to be climbed, often<br />
slick with moss and vegetation, and if there’s<br />
been a lot of rain, the flow of the river can<br />
make it impassable. Common sense can’t<br />
be avoided altogether then. For this reason,<br />
a helmet is a sensible idea, even though the<br />
scrambling difficulties are none too technical.<br />
But that’s enough of this serious talk. As<br />
we said, this is all about having fun. So, with<br />
caution not abandoned but safely stowed in<br />
the back of our minds for now, let’s plunge<br />
on into Stickle Ghyll…<br />
From the National Trust car park in<br />
Langdale, follow the path past the left<br />
1side of the Stickle Barn pub, pass through<br />
a small enclosed meadow and meet the river.<br />
Leave the path, head into the stream bed, and<br />
begin the ascent of Stickle Ghyll with some<br />
easy rock-hopping.<br />
Follow the tree-lined ghyll to the first<br />
obstacle. A twin-funnelled waterfall flows<br />
2over a small rock step which is climbed<br />
up a curving face between the two cascades.<br />
Above, stick to the right bank for a sometimes<br />
tricky (the chunkier tree roots come in handy)<br />
traverse over some deep pools and smaller falls.<br />
After more rock-hopping a small<br />
hydro-electric installation below a<br />
3footbridge is reached. Leave the river<br />
briefly to pass this before returning to the ghyll<br />
for more clambering over some large and<br />
awkward boulders.<br />
You’ll hear the next obstacle before you see<br />
it. A tall, slick looking wall with multiple<br />
4flows of water pouring over it. The driest rock<br />
goes right up the middle. It’s high and potentially<br />
slippery. Handholds are reliable, although the<br />
friction of footholds should be tested before fully<br />
weighting them. Helmets are a must, and novice<br />
scramblers may appreciate the security of a rope.<br />
5<br />
Above, another fall rumbles through a cleft in<br />
the surrounding rock. This is only climbable<br />
if the water is reasonably low, in which case<br />
a careful ascent can be made by following the<br />
driest line (if there is one) and bridging between<br />
the boulders. If the ghyll is flowing high or you<br />
just don’t fancy this challenge, bypass it with<br />
some easier and drier scrambling to the left.<br />
6<br />
After another stretch of boulder-hopping<br />
the final and most impressive section of<br />
falls come into sight. The easiest line and<br />
best rock is to the right, but there are multiple<br />
routes through, and the views back down the<br />
valley are impressive.<br />
Above the falls the river meets the path on<br />
dry land to the right. The options here are to<br />
7return to the pub or car to dry off, continue up<br />
to Stickle Tarn (either on the path or in the ghyll)<br />
to enjoy the views (and possibly some swimming),<br />
or continue the day’s scrambling with an ascent<br />
of Jack’s Rake on Pavey Ark, all with a big smile<br />
on your face (and water in your boots).<br />
M E E T O U R<br />
LOCAL EXPERT<br />
Based in Cumbria, Matt Le<br />
Voi is a Mountain Leader,<br />
Winter Mountain Leader,<br />
rock-climbing instructor,<br />
and founder and company<br />
director of Lakeland Mountain Guides.<br />
Find out more about their services and<br />
events at lakelandmountainguides.co.uk<br />
110 TRAIL SEPTEMBER <strong>2020</strong> SEPTEMBER <strong>2020</strong> TRAIL 111
PLAN<br />
YOUR<br />
100<br />
FUTURE<br />
MOUNTAIN<br />
TRIPS!<br />
THE UK’S ULTIMATE MOUNTAIN BUCKET LIST<br />
Hand-picked by the experts at <strong>Trail</strong> <strong>mag</strong>azine, the <strong>Trail</strong> 100 is the definitive<br />
collection of 100 peaks that every hillwalker must climb in their lifetime<br />
INCLUDING…<br />
BEN NEVIS SNOWDON HELVELLYN<br />
SCAFELL PIKE KINDER SCOUT TRYFAN<br />
BUACHAILLE ETIVE MOR BOWFELL SLIOCH<br />
AN TEALLACH CONISTON OLD MAN BEN MACDUI<br />
GREAT GABLE PEN Y FAN INGLEBOROUGH CADAIR IDRIS<br />
BEN HOPE GLYDER FACH CROSS FELL SKIDDAW THE CALF YES TOR<br />
For detailed descriptions of each peak, digital route guides<br />
and a FREE peak bagging chart, go to LFTO.COM/TRAIL100<br />
MAGAZINE