food+drinkFROM SUSHI TO DELI, & KOSHER-CERTIFIEDCHEF MARISA BAGGETTby Gila Golder | photos by Sarah Rushakoff“I am exhausted,” says chefMarisa Baggett, a few daysafter the end of the monthlongmarathon of Jewish fallholidays (Rosh Hashana, YomKippur, Sukkot, Simchat Torah)which brought her anavalanche of catering orders.But that’s nothing compared tohow she felt about ten yearsago, when she realized it wastime to slow down.“I went through a period ofseveral years where I justwasn’t able to stand on my feetdue to this weird, out of theblue illness that happened tome and took me away from thekitchen. I started looking foropportunities to do thingswhere I could sit, so that’swhen I wrote my cookbooks,”she recalls.A graduate of the CaliforniaSushi Academy, Marisa is theauthor of two cookbooks,Sushi Secrets and VegetarianSushi Secrets. But these days,she’s back in the kitchen,feeling better, and describesherself as a “professionallytrained sushi chef turned delilady.” In July 2019, shelaunched Zayde’s NYC Deli, akosher-certified cateringcompany offering delivered,heat and eat meals forShabbat, the Jewish Sabbath.Customers can order fullmeals or a la carte items from aseasonal menu – no orderminimum required, so thosewho live alone or with apartner or spouse can orderjust the amount they need.That concept underlies anupcoming Thanksgivingoffering, the SatisPie.“Say it’s me and Stan. A lotof our ideas come from whatStan and I would want,” shesays of her husband. “We likedifferent kinds of pie, but wedon’t both need to eat anentire pie. So I thought, what ifyou could buy a pie that had afew slices of this and a fewslices of that?”What Zayde’s doesn’t do isprovide a full Thanksgivingmeal option, because Shabbatmeals must be ready to go onFriday. “My thought is, we canhelp you with your desserts,but you focus on Thanksgivingand we’ll take care ofShabbat.”Because Zayde’s food iskosher-certified, certainingredients are off-limits. Mostmenus are prepared with meat,which may not be combinedwith dairy products undertraditional Jewish law. Ratherthan rely on artificialsubstitutions, as many homecooks do, Marisa curatesrecipes to focus on wholefoods and fresh ingredients,such as coconut milk and oliveoil. She can also accommodateallergy restrictions or otherspecial diets – Zayde’s has adedicated gluten-freecustomer base and alwaysfeatures a monthly gluten-freedessert. “It’s always the mostpopular dessert, whetherpeople need it to be glutenfreeor not.”What’s next for Zayde’s?Marisa is coy about futureplans, but hints at a possibletransition to “shmick andshmortar” (currently, Zayde’srents space from the kosherkitchen at Baron HirschSynagogue.)“Knowing that I serve thecommunity is what I’m mostproud of,” she says. She oftenreceives orders from elderlycustomers who can’t gogrocery shopping, or fromfamilies observing shiva, theseven-day ritual mourningperiod following the passing ofa loved one.“There’s nothing that meansmore to me personally thanwhen someone reaches out tosay the food that you broughtfor us was so amazing in ourtime of need. Food is such aconnection point, and it’s veryhumbling that people trust meto do these things for them.”Stay tuned on Zayde’s socialmedia pages (@zaydesnycdeli)for new monthly menus,holiday offerings (Chinese foodfor Christmas!) and more.Page 36 / focusmidsouth.com / NOV+DEC 2020 / GO!
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