Style_ April 01, 2021

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26 Style | FeatureThe realdealKate Preece’s tastebuds journeyed toMexico via a foodtrail led by CitlalliFernandez Anaya.Photos CatherineEricsonIn a Wigram kitchen, Citlalli ‘Ally’Fernandez Anaya tells tales of achildhood in Mexico City, where foodhas its place in the heart of the home.Her six-person audience has cometogether to absorb the lessons shelearnt alongside her grandmother,mother and sister (now a Le CordonBleu chef), and gain an understandingof what authentic Mexican food isreally like.“I cannot remember a time I havenot been in love with food,” saysAlly. “From the time I could reach mygrandmother’s and mother’s apron Iwas on a stool in the kitchen makingmasa [maize dough] for tortillas, aneveryday staple.”Ally created Kahlo, her Mexicancooking school, to pass on herculinary secrets, off the back ofsome rather successful MexicanIndependence Day celebrations.Ally would spend days preparingfood in the kitchen in the leadupto the annual event, whichsaw her friends treated to a feastthat commemorated Mexico’sindependence from Spain. Beingable to present an evolving rangeof dishes to households aroundChristchurch seemed just the way toextend the party.With Mexican ingredients moreavailable than ever before, a goodsupermarket is a Kiwi’s pantry for afavourable range of dried and tinnedchillies, and the tomatillo that’s key toa true salsa verde. Alongside frozenchillies found at Asian supermarkets,we have little excuse not to followAlly’s lead.While Ally no longer feels the needto bring food-filled suitcases back withher from Mexico, she is very specificabout which ingredients are used –particularly in the Tacos Al Pastor shecreates for us. If you haven’t foundachiote paste (a Mexican condimentmade from annatto seeds), do noteven consider making the porkmarinade that’s essential for thisrecipe. Another sin would be to skiptopping the taco with pineapple.Authenticity is key to what Kahlo isall about. Ally’s classes offer a chanceto learn about the staples of Mexicancuisine (chillies, lemon, lime, salt andgarlic) and how they work together– not to create the Tex-Mex recipeswe are more used to consuming atour ‘Mexican’ restaurants.Take, for example, Ally’s signatureguacamole. It includes no tomatoor red onion. There is white onionin the recipe, but it’s blended, notdiced, into a smooth dip that hasextra silkiness due to its milk content.We can all attest to its taste – chipswere constantly diving into themoreish green mix as the rest of themenu unfolded over the course ofthe evening.My favourite dish was the grandfinale to our night of Mexican streetfood. Corn cobs were boiled in amix of herbs and spices, before beingcoated in lashings of mayonnaise,rolled in grated white cheese, andsprinkled with cayenne pepper. It wasnot only delicious, but brought to lifeAlly’s anecdotes – the real seasoningon this insightful experience of life inMexico City.
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Style_ April 01, 2021

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