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KNITmuch Issue 13

In this issue...join us on an exciting journey with Charles Voth as he walks us through the process of designing a men’s sweater vest. Starting from necessary measurements and calculations to a steeked V-neck and embellishments it’s a process you’ll want to apply to future knitting designs. Also, check out Cindy O'Malley's features on testing out the characteristics of Penna and Odette yarns, making pullovers and other fun to wear accessories! Oh! It’s always so much fun!

In this issue...join us on an exciting journey with Charles Voth as he walks us through the process of designing a men’s sweater vest. Starting from necessary measurements and calculations to a steeked V-neck and embellishments it’s a process you’ll want to apply to future knitting designs. Also, check out Cindy O'Malley's features on testing out the characteristics of Penna and Odette yarns, making pullovers and other fun to wear accessories! Oh! It’s always so much fun!

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Knit Together

with Cynthia MacDougall

The Many Ways of Measuring Yarn

Photo by Mike Guilbault.

Cynthia MacDougall

Canadian Guild of Knitters

PO Box 20262

Barrie, Ontario L4M 6E9

705.722.6495

1.866.245.5648 (CGK-KNIT)

www.CGKnitters.ca

blog: cgknitters.blogspot.com

ravelry name: theloveofknit

6 KNITmuch | issue 13

A

beginning knitter recently

observed that the yarn for one

of her knitting patterns was

listed in yards and grams. She observed

that these are two different methods of

measurement and she asked me, “How

do you know if the weight the pattern

says will be enough to make a sweater?”

Both, yards (or meters) and grams (or

ounces) are systems of measurement.

Yards and meters are linear measures;

grams and ounces are measures of mass.

Used together, these two measures offer

clues about the third way to measure yarn:

thickness or grist. Grist is a broad enough

topic for another article, so, this article will

focus on linear and mass measurements.

So much about knitting is variable.

Yarn weight and yardage information

in patterns are usually estimated. A

difference in the tension, or gauge, will

impact the take-up of yarn, and affect

the amount of yarn needed to complete

the project. Adjustments for the wearer

– sleeve length, for example – may

require more or less yarn. Substituting

a different yarn than the one called for

by the pattern may change the amount

of yarn needed to complete a project.

Some of the information on ball bands

is estimated. In short, individual results

may vary.

Designers usually create patterns for one

size and make adjustments for other sizes

using a process called ‘grading.’ Unless the

knitter is making the size the designer

used to create the base size for the pattern,

both the grams and yardage of yarn given

in the pattern are estimates. Sometimes

a pattern will be test-knit in more than

one size, but, generally, the yarn amounts

are estimated by using mathematical

calculations based upon the amount of

yarn used to make the sample garment.

In most cases, the designer will overstate

the amount of yarn needed to make the

garment, to ensure the knitter has enough

yarn to finish the project. But, if a knitter’s

tension varies even as little as one-quarter

of a stitch over 4 inches/10cm, extra yarn

may be needed to finish the project.

Knowing the approximate yardage

of the yarn prescribed by the pattern

makes it easier to substitute yarn,

whether the substitution is due to

replacing a discontinued yarn or

one with a different fiber content.

Different fibers have different

masses. A pound of wool is larger

in mass than a pound of cotton

and 50 grams of wool has more

yardage than 50 grams of cotton in

most cases. So, if a pattern calls for 10

balls of a woollen yarn that has 200

meters per 50 gram ball the pattern

calls for a total of 2000 meters of

yarn. If the knitter wants to use a

cotton yarn that has 180 meters

per 50 gram ball, he or she can

deduce that two more balls of the

cotton yarn is needed to have at

least 2000 meters of yarn. (Ten

balls of the cotton yarn equals

1800 meters. Eleven balls has

1980 meters, which might be

enough to get by, but having

2160 meters on hand is better.)

Manufacturers are required

to cite the accurate weight of

the yarn. Yardage, however, is

optional, and when it is given,

it is usually estimated. Yardage

was rarely cited on ball bands

until the 1990s. Although it

is estimated, it is useful data,

nonetheless.

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