Times of the Islands Winter 2021-22

TIMES
OF THE
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS WINTER 2021/22 NO. 137
ISLANDS
MIDDLE CAICOS PIONEERS
Building Blue Horizon Resort
TREASURES ON THE REEF
A tour of TCI dive sites
COASTAL CULTURE
Why is it so important?

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21 RESTAURANTS
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OR CALL YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR
*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/timesoftheislandsspring2021 or call 1-800-BEACHES for important terms and
conditions. Beaches ® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc. is an affiliate of Unique Travel Corp., the worldwide
representative of Beaches Resorts.

contents
Departments
6 From the Editor
17 Getting to Know
Lindsay Gardiner
By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photo By Tom Rathgeb
22 Eye on the Sky — Global Warming
A Ripple Effect
By Paul Wilkerson
28 Talking Taíno
Clear as Mud
By Emily Kracht and Lindsay Block with
Bill Keegan, Betsy Carlson and Michael Pateman
66 Around the Islands
Lights, Camera, Action!
By Matthew Matlack
76 About the Islands/TCI Map
80 Subscription Form
82 Classified Ads
Features
35 Middle Caicos Pioneers
By Michael and Mikki Witt
46 Treasures on the Reef
By Kelly Currington
Green Pages
55 Food for Thought . . . Not Iguanas
By Devyn Hannon, Jacqui Taff, Sedona Stone,
Maddie Adkison, Lily Finn, Amber Johnson,
Abbey Stewart, Luke Monteiro, Kerry Bresnahan
and Morgan Karns ~ Edited by Julia Locke, SFS
59 RumPowered Research
By Alizee Zimmermann and Don Stark, TCRF
Photos By Patricia Guardiola
TIMES
OF THE
ISLANDS
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS WINTER 2021/22 NO. 137
On the Cover
Marta Morton, our go-to photographer for all things naturally
beautiful in the Turks & Caicos Islands, captured
this peaceful scene overlooking Dragon Cay on Middle
Caicos. You can read more about the history of resort
development there on page 35. For more of Marta’s
breathtaking images, visit www.harbourclubvillas.com.
62 TCI Coastal Culture Values
By Oshin Whyte
Astrolabe
70 Island Visionary
By Dr. Carlton Mills
35
GARY JAMES—PROVO PICTURES
4 www.timespub.tc

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from the editor
MATTHEW MATLACK—SEATURTLECREATIVE.COM
Although now fronted by multi-million dollar villas, the view below the water at Providenciales’ iconic Smith’s Reef in late 1980 is among my
favorite memories of the Turks & Caicos Islands.
Nostalgia
The dictionary defines nostalgia as “a sentimental longing or wistful affection for the past, typically for a period or
place with happy personal associations.” Perhaps it’s my age or the effects of the COVID pandemic, but I find myself
steeped in nostalgia these days. I think I am becoming one of those “old timers” who wax eloquent about “the good
old days.” I remember meeting such folks when I first came to the Turks & Caicos 30 years ago—as a young, fresh
editor totally enamoured of these Islands. When I read articles like this issue’s “Middle Caicos Pioneers,” it’s odd to
realize that I was there when that was happening! And I had written many articles about what took place!
As Providenciales, especially, seems to be in the midst of “Development Boom 3.0,” I empathize with the interviewees
of Oshin Whyte’s study on cultural values and coastal heritage. This country’s stunning, clean, uncrowded
beaches, bush and seascapes are important to keep us all centered and grounded. And once again, I feel blessed
with my purpose of documenting the TCI’s amazing natural wonders and rich cultural heritage through the pages of
this magazine. I can’t think of anything I would rather do with my life.
Nostalgia is sweet, but deceiving when it tends to downplay the good things that are ahead. When you read Mat
Matlack’s description of the Turks & Caicos International Film Festival, we can realize that the young “up and comers”
of TCI society care about the same things we do—including the preservation of our precious planet and this “Beautiful
by Nature” Turks & Caicos Islands.
Kathy Borsuk, Editor • timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 431-4788
6 www.timespub.tc

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YOUR FAMILY
HAS BEEN AND
WILL ALWAYS BE
PRIORITY
#1
®
BEACHES
THE BRAND YOU CAN
TRUST
PHYSICAL
DISTANCING
PRACTICES
11
1
SUITE
CLEANING
TOUCH 5
POINTS
In-Room Bars &
C o ff e e / T e a S t a t i o n s
2 All Closet Accessories
3 Air Ducts
4 Hard Surfaces
Television &
All Electronics
6 UV-LED Lights
WE’RE SAFEGUARDING YOUR HOME AWAY FROM HOME
PRIVATE
AIRPORT
TRANSFERS
NEW
AT-HOME
to
IN-ROOM
CHECK-IN
GUESTS CAN NOW
CHECK-IN ONLINE,
LETTING THEM SKIP
THE FRONT DESK AND
GO DIRECTLY TO
THEIR ROOM.
7 Bed Frame & Furniture
8
BEACHES ONLY USES
PRIVATE TRANSFERS FOR ALL GUESTS.
As part of the 5-STAR LUXURY EXPERIENCE,
Beaches guests are never left to fend for
themselves in crowded airports. Every guest
is given access to the private lounge reserved
for Beaches guests.
Placement Of
Anti-Bacterial Gels & Soaps
9 Carpeting And Floors
10 Soft Furnishings
11 Bedding & Mattresses
BATHROOM CLEANING TOUCH POINTS
9
1
2
Hand Sanitizers For All
Guests Upon Arrival
Placement Of Anti-Bacterial
Gels And Soaps
3 Floors
4 Electrical Aerosol Sprayers
5 Shower
6 UV-LED Light
7
SAFETY
TO EVERY CORNER OF THE RESORT
Tub
8 Air Ducts
EXCLUSIVE
A
9 Hard Surfaces
that
I R P O R T
SPANS
PRIVATE
L O U N G E S
TEMPERATURE
CHECK
AT CHECK-IN
TEMPERATURES
EXCEEDING
99.5F/37.5C
WILL BE CONSIDERED
OUT OF RANGE.

LEADING THE INDUSTRY IN HEALTH AND SAFETY PROTOCOLS.
ALWAYS.
1 Arrival At Our Airport Lounges
2 Guest Transfers To Our Resorts
3 Food And Beverage Outlets
4 Housekeeping & Laundry
OUR
TOUCH POINT PRACTICE
5 Butler Elite Services
6 Maintenance
7 Resort Recreational Activities
8 Guest Rooms
9 Elevators
10 Swimming Pools & Whirlpools
11 Team Members Access Points
12 Fitness Centers
13 Bathrooms
14 Suppliers
15 All Public Resort & Beach Areas
16 Back Of House Areas
17 Red Lane ® Spa
18 HVAC Systems
safe
to slide
3X
TRIPLE
CHECK
SYSTEM
FOR CLEANING
AND
SANITIZATION
Prevention is the key to safeguarding the health of our
employees and guests. We long ago developed a sophisticated
approach to preventing the spread of illnesses at our
resorts under the guidance of medical professionals,
the Centers for Diseases Control and Prevention
(CDC), World Health Organization (WHO), and the local
Ministries of Health in each country we call home. We
have dedicated Quality Inspection Teams and environmental
health and safety managers at all of our resorts to make
sure every procedure is in place to protect every guest and
team member. That even extends to our supply chain. Our
resorts have always been equipped with full-service
medical stations staffed daily with a registered nurse
and 24/7 on-call medical personnel, but we’ve upgraded
these facilities to include the appropriate equipment
and supplies needed to address new protocols. So you
can book your next stay with us knowing that Beaches has
always been the brand you can trust, and always will be.
BEACHES.COM l 1-800-BEACHES
Or Call Your Travel Advisor
@beachesresorts
Beaches ® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc. is an affiliate of Unique Travel Corp., the worldwide representative of Beaches Resorts.

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TIMES
OF THE
ISLANDS
MANAGING EDITOR
Kathy Borsuk
ADVERTISING MANAGER
Claire Parrish
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Maddie Adkison, Dr. Lindsay Bloch, Kathy Borsuk,
Kerry Bresnahan, Dr. Betsy Carlson, Kelly Currington,
Lily Finn, Devyn Hannon, Amber Johnson, Morgan Karns,
Dr. Bill Keegan, Emily Kracht, Julia Locke, Matthew Matlack,
Dr. Carlton Mills, Luke Monteiro, Dr. Michael P. Pateman,
Jody Rathgeb, Don Stark, Abbey Stewart, Sedona Stone,
Jacqui Taff, Lisa Turnbow-Talbot, Oshin Whyte,
Paul Wilkerson, Michael and Mikki Witt,
Alizee Zimmermann.
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Lindsay Bloch, Eric Carlander, Kelly Currington, Lily Finn,
Patricia Guardiola, Devyn Hannon,
Gary James–Provo Pictures, Magnetic Media,
Matthew Matlack, Robert Metcalfe,
Marta Morton, Michael Morton, NASA, Leland Neff,
Carlos Pita, Tom Rathgeb, Shutterstock,
Turks & Caicos National Museum, Lisa Turnbow-Talbot,
Matt Weedon, Michael and Mikki Witt.
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Merald Clark, Wavey Line Publishing.
PRINTING
PF Solutions, Miami, FL
Times of the Islands ISSN 1017-6853 is
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16 www.timespub.tc

getting to know
These days, Lindsay Gardiner can be found behind the desk at Caicos Cruisin’,
at Walkin Marina at the far eastern end of Providenciales.
The Travelin’ Man
Who Didn’t Travel
Lindsay Gardiner
By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photo By Tom Rathgeb
He was always there. In the 1990s and early 2000s, you never had to look far for Lindsay Gardiner. It
seemed he never left his spot at Provo airport, behind the desk of Global Airways. His was the face of
the air charter company, a welcome sight for travelers headed to North Caicos for vacation or Islanders
looking for a ride back after a day of banking, shopping and other errands.
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 17

Interisland travel has
changed, and Global Airways
no longer exists, but Lindsay
is still there . . . not at the
airport anymore, but as a
manager at Caribbean Cruisin’
at Walkin Marina at the eastern
end of Providenciales. He
has moved from an air service
to ferry service but remains
that steady guy behind the
counter.
Lindsay’s perspective on
travel is not only his story,
but also that of his family.
With brothers Ferrington and
Bennett, the Gardiners put
together the air charter that
operated for 15 years. They
figured they had the right
stuff. As Lindsay tells it, in
1993 they were talking about
aviation in the Islands and realized they were ready for
forming a company: Ferrington was a fully-trained commercial
pilot, Bennett was an A&P (airframe and power
plant) mechanic, and Lindsay had a background that
included assisting Bennett, plus shipyard management at
Caicos Marina. It was decided, he says. “Ferrington will be
the chief pilot and Bennett the chief mechanic and I will
manage the company.”
As a charter company, Global didn’t have a set schedule,
but the brothers shrewdly began planning to run
flights to align with the most popular times when tourists
were moving back and forth to other islands. Lindsay
figured it all out while supervising and keeping an eye on
international flights, Ferrington’s whereabouts, and the
coolers locals were carting to his desk.
Freight was always problematic. “Freight hauling was
a challenge because at the start, air transport was the
main mode for transportation, and North Caicos being a
hinterland, it was difficult to get supplies over,” Lindsay
explains. He did his best to accommodate people’s
belongings in the small holds of the planes while keeping
track of passenger weights and distribution. (Travelers
were asked to include their body weights when signing
the manifest; there was always a small adjustment for
the inevitable white lies.) Sometimes, there were strange
cargo requests: one customer wanted the plane to carry
bags of cement to North Caicos!
This is one of Global Airway’s three aircraft operating during the peak of its business.
Lindsay made it all work. At the peak of Global Airways,
the company had three aircraft and eleven workers.
Through the years, he watched as airworthiness checks
tightened, security increased and new directives ensured
that certain errors and accidents would not happen again.
In short, Lindsay spent his days as a worrier. “The biggest
challenge then was to stay afloat and keep the cost
down, as aviation is a tough business and with any mistake
you easily lose a significant amount of revenue. You
could lose the entire business overnight,” he says.
The company’s work on this edge of viability did not
survive 2008, when the U.S. economy’s downturn affected
all operations in the Turks & Caicos. Limping along, he
says, “We began to re-evaluate the business and decided
to move on from aviation.” The brothers dissolved the
company and went in somewhat different directions.
Bennett began working on Parrot Cay while continuing to
do some aircraft maintenance. Ferrington pulled back to
North Caicos interests, but also received the opportunity
to purchase an interest in the developing ferry service of
Caribbean Cruisin’. Lindsay was invited to work with the
ferry company as an assistant manager.
For him, the transition was good. The stress of being
“the guy behind the desk” was mitigated because, he says,
“there are more heads and minds involved in my day-today
activities.” Also, he stretched his skills by acquiring a
boat captain’s license in 2010. “This is a fresh perspective
for me, and unlike in the aviation business, where I didn’t
18 www.timespub.tc

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The longest established legal practice
in the Turks & Caicos Islands
have a pilot’s license, I can back up the boat captains
should there be a need,” he comments.
For a “son of North Caicos,” Lindsay Gardiner has
spent a lot of time on Provo, living there while he continues
to help others to travel. And the guy behind the
counter is still there, getting others where they’re going.
a
Real Estate Investments
& Property Development
Immigration, Residency
& Business Licensing
Company & Commercial Law
Trusts & Estate Planning
Banking & Insurance
1 Caribbean Place, P.O. Box 97
Leeward Highway, Providenciales
Turks & Caicos Islands, BWI
Ph: 649 946 4344 • Fax: 649 946 4564
E-Mail: dempsey@tciway.tc
Cockburn House, P.O. Box 70
Market Street, Grand Turk
Turks & Caicos Islands, BWI
Ph: 649 946 2245 • Fax: 649 946 2758
E-Mail: ffdlawco@tciway.tc
john redmond associates ltd.
architects & designers
construction consultants
project management
Confessions of a crazy customer
Some companies lose their personal touch in customer
service as they grow. Global Airways never
did, and that was due largely to the man behind the
counter, Lindsay Gardiner. Even though, in my memory,
he often appeared to have a phone permanently
attached to his ear, he was always listening out the
other. In the days when I was flying Global at least
once a month, doing my banking and shopping to
put the finishing touches on my North Caicos house,
I appealed to him for help several times, and he never
let me down.
There was, for example, the time I walked into the
airport carting a large mirror framed in wicker, which
I lucked into as the perfect solution to my as-yet
mirrorless upstairs bathroom. Lindsay watched me,
deadpan, as I approached the counter. He didn’t say
“no,” but his expression surely did. “Please, please,
please?” were my first words. He sighed. “We’ll try,”
he said, understanding the plight of North Caicos
residents who then had few resources at home. My
mirror made it.
Another time, when I was trying to combine a computer-repair
trip on Provo with a writing job on South
Caicos, I realized that taking my newly-repaired laptop
with me on a working fishing boat might not be
a good idea. Could Global please hold it for me until
I got back? They did, locking it safely in an upstairs
office.
And more than once when, for various reasons, I
was either phoneless or lacking in minutes or low on
battery power, Lindsay handed me his. I was, and still
am, grateful. a
~ Jody Rathgeb
p.o.box 21, providenciales, turks & caicos is.
tel.: 9464440 cell: 2314569 email: redmond@tciway.tc
20 www.timespub.tc

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SHUTTERSTOCK

eye on the sky – global warming
Opposite page: Mangroves, which are vital protection for some species of fish and other sea life, will likely begin to succumb to higher ocean
temperatures.
Above: As ocean temperatures rise, fish species will be forced to leave their traditional home grounds in search of a habitat where they are
able to thrive.
SHUTTERSTOCK
A Ripple Effect
Impact of rising sea surface temperatures.
The topic of global warming is filling the headlines from the Islands to the States, from the Far East
to the Far West and everywhere in between. And for good reason. Global warming is having resounding
impacts around the world. Residents and visitors may assume because the Turks & Caicos Islands are so
small, that the effects of climate change will be low. Life will go on as always. Unfortunately, impacts are
already occurring, whether people realize it or not.
By Paul Wilkerson
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 23

Let’s define global warming: the long-term heating
of the Earth’s climate system due to human activities. The
majority of this heating comes as a result of burning fossil
fuels which ultimately leads to increased greenhouse
gas levels in the atmosphere.
Global warming is a multi-faceted problem. Far too
complicated to explain in this article, so for this issue we
will focus on the sea surface temperature changes and
impacts on the fishing industry. In future editions, we’ll
discuss other weather-related topics as we continue to
adapt to this problem that will take all of us to solve.
Naturally, when booking a holiday to the Islands,
folks look forward to sampling local cuisine. In the
Caribbean, we would expect a cornucopia of seafood on
the menu—a variety of fresh fish, conch and lobster. And
when you come to the Turks & Caicos Islands, you won’t
be disappointed. But will it always be that way?
Sadly, without changes to how we take care of our
environment, that once plentiful variety of “fruits of
the sea” may become the exception and not the norm.
A direct cause will likely be due to rising Sea Surface
Temperatures (SST) which are directly tied to global
warming.
To date, the Global Atmospheric Temperature has
risen on average over 1ºC since about 1900. This has
resulted in SST rises in the Caribbean of about 0.5ºC
in the last 50 years or so. That might seem like such a
small amount, that surely it isn’t such a big deal. Now
remember that 70% of the earth’s surface is covered in
water. Further consider that ALL water sources across the
globe are also absorbing that heat. As a result, there is
no region of the world that will be left untouched. The
impacts of this oceanic temperature rise, without intervention,
will likely prove devastating for islands like the
Turks & Caicos.
The likely impacts of SST rise are akin to watching
an avalanche of snow collapsing in slow motion down
the side of a mountain. As water temperatures rise,
coral beds, which many marine species depend on for
their homes and for raising their offspring, could be at
more significant threat of catastrophic coral bleaching
episodes. Coral bleaching is quickly becoming an emergent
problem across the large barrier reefs of the world,
including here in the Caribbean.
As a result of this loss in habitat, fish species will be
forced to leave their traditional home grounds in search
of a habitat where they are able to thrive. Other fish species
which are acclimatized to the shallower waters within
the Caicos Bank and shorelines of TCI may eventually be
pushed out as water temperatures climb over the coming
decades. As these shallow waters continue to heat,
oxygen depletion will occur, making it more difficult for
aquatic life to thrive.
Mangroves, which are vital protection for some species
of fish and other sea life, will likely begin to succumb
to the higher temperatures as well. Groves may thin in
areas as stress sets in, while other areas may see losses
of their groves completely.
MODIS OCEANS GROUP—NASA GODDARD SPACE FLIGHT CENTER
This sea surface temperature map was produced using MODIS (Moderate Resolution Imaging Spectroradiometer) data acquired daily over
the whole globe in the year 2000. The red pixels show warmer surface temperatures, while yellows and greens are intermediate values, and
blue pixels show cold water.
24 www.timespub.tc

HOMES IN PARADISE
BY GRACE BAY REALTY
Lyle Schmidek
Beth Atkins
Claudius Williams
Latoya Jones
Gordon Williams
Eugene Burns
O'Brien Forbes Betchaina Hyppolite Stenley Valmir
Bernard Young
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TURKSANDCAICOSREALESTATE.COM

As fish species are pushed further out to sea in search
of more habitable conditions, fish gatherers will likewise
have to venture a longer way to make their catches. The
current bounty of fish being brought in for harvest could
drop to 60 to 80% in the future, or worse yet. The species
caught may not be as diverse as what was once common.
Where lobster was once found in shallower waters where
free diving was possible, in the future these lobster may
be out of reach for those without appropriate gear.
Conch, the most consumed seafood in the Islands,
will be impacted. Studies are underway to analyze exactly
how higher sea temperatures impact the reproduction
of the different species, calcification rates and survival.
More research is needed to determine the long term
impacts.
As fish gatherers head further out to sea to find their
catches, they will incur higher costs for maintenance,
fuel, gear and personnel to run their operations. This cost
will be passed on to consumers, which in the long term
could lead to a crisis of sorts in the industry. The greatest
impact will be on the locals who depend on these waters
as their source of sustainment and income. The ripple
effects are far reaching.
Although this all sounds like doom and gloom, it
doesn’t have to be! You, me . . . all of us play a critical
role in changing the environment. Even the simplest of
things will make a difference. Walk to work! Commute
with friends who have a similar schedule. Reduce your
energy usage at home. If we all make small changes in
our daily energy consumption, we reduce the demand on
power supply stations, which in turn reduces the amount
of energy they need to produce and lowers their emissions.
Eat more fruits and vegetables and reduce meat
consumption. Growing produce takes little more than
water and soil. Plants help exchange carbon dioxide
for oxygen. Less meat production significantly reduces
greenhouse gas emissions and reduces stress on water
and land resources.
Through the power of knowledge, education and
teamwork, we do have the ability to slow the process of
global warming, and with time, save our glorious planet
Earth. a
Paul Wilkerson is an American meteorologist and tourist
who frequents the Turks & Caicos Islands. Along with
his wife and two daughters, the Wilkersons stay actively
engaged with Islanders throughout the year with his
Facebook page Turks and Caicos Islands Weather Info.
26 www.timespub.tc

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MARTA MORTON–WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM

talking taíno
MERALD CLARK
Opposite page: A bright red sunset can often be attributed to Saharan dust in the atmosphere. This same dust is responsible for the red clay
used for early pottery in the Lucayan Islands.
Above: This image, “Palmetto Potters,” depicts two sisters working on a set of new pottery bowls. The woman on the right uses the end of
a thin reed to decorate the rim edge of a small bowl. Her daughter kneads the dense clay and adds burnt shell to the mixture to make the
unique paste that distinguishes the pottery known today as Palmetto Ware. A set of freshly made bowls and a cassava griddle lie on mats and
in basketry frames—the patterns from their weave will be impressed into the ceramic bases as a permanent record of these fragile, organic
arts that do not survive the passage of time.
Clear as Mud
The origins of early pottery in the Lucayan Islands.
By Emily Kracht and Lindsay Bloch
With Bill Keegan, Betsy Carlson, and Michael Pateman
In our last “Talking Taino” we described a variety of ways that meals were prepared without clay pots. The
invention of pottery vessels led to widespread sharing of the technology and almost universal adoption.
Pots provided a superior method of cooking with liquids. Two significant reasons for adopting pots are
cooking corn porridge as weaning food (this has helped reduce infant mortality worldwide), and fermenting
alcoholic beverages such as manioc beer, chicha (corn), and pineapple wine (Carib).
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 29

Pottery has been made all over the world for thousands
of years, independently invented in multiple places.
At its most basic, the steps are: find clay, shape it, fire
it. But within this basic recipe, people have developed
innumerable variations to make successful pottery with
different materials and for specific purposes. Although
the process was by then well known, potters in the
Lucayan Islands faced a number of technological challenges.
So, how did the first people inhabiting the Turks
& Caicos Islands figure out how to make pottery from
scratch?
The first people to occupy the Lucayan Islands (the
archipelago that includes TCI and The Bahamas) arrived
around AD 900. They likely came from Hispaniola, bringing
their island lifeways and goods they would need with
them, including wood and stone tools, baskets, nets and
pottery. Pots for cooking and serving food or storing
water were common. When the pots they brought with
them broke, or when they needed more, the hunt was
on for suitable raw materials to make replacements. This
task proved to be much harder than you may imagine.
Many Lucayan tools were made of natural materials
that have decayed over time so archaeologists rarely find
them, but pottery from these early people is recovered
today throughout the Turks & Caicos as broken sherds
(fragments of pottery) washing out on beaches or buried
underground.
The pottery that was made in the Lucayan Islands,
a type we call Palmetto Ware, looks and feels very different
from the typical Taíno pottery made in their
homeland. While most Taíno pots are brown, thin-bodied
and smooth, Palmetto Ware is red, thick and chunky with
abundant fragments of burned conch shell.
In our research in the Ceramic Technology Lab at the
Florida Museum of Natural History, we set out to recover
the recipe for island-made Palmetto Ware pottery, figuring
out where the clay came from, what was added to it
and how pots were constructed. This has included several
expeditions to look for pottery raw materials. Trips
we took to Great Abaco, Long Island and Providenciales
allowed us to look for clay deposits in the same places
the Lucayans would have found them hundreds of years
ago. On Long Island, we drove out to sandy beaches
along the coast. Exposed beds of limestone sat where
the sand and water met, revealing small, eroded pockets
of clay. We eventually stopped at a large expanse of
beach, with exposed beachrock extending across it to the
tree line. Walking across the limestone revealed bright
These fragments of a Palmetto Ware bowl show its distinctive characteristics: red, thick and chunky with fragments of burned conch shell.
Note the incised line decoration circling the rim.
LINDSAY BLOCH
30 www.timespub.tc

Walkin May2017_Layout 1 5/28/17 5:45 PM Page 1
LINDSAY BLOCH
Emily Kracht collects bright red clay deposits on the beach, the same
place the Lucayans would have found them hundreds of years ago.
red clay deposits in its pockets. Wait, red clay? How did
iron-rich red clay end up on limestone islands?
When you visit the Lucayan Islands today, most of the
ground beneath your feet will be pale in color, whether
coral and shell beach sand, rock outcrops or soil. The
islands of this archipelago are comprised entirely of limestone
built up over millennia from calcium-rich sea life,
which is white in color, without the iron that turns soils
rusty red.
The deposits of red clay found in the Lucayan Islands
are Saharan dust that has made its way across the ocean!
Fine particles of soil from the Sahara Desert form clouds
that are transported all the way to the Americas, a process
that has been happening for thousands of years.
Even today, Sahara dust can be a nuisance affecting the
flight paths of airplanes and air quality during weather
events like windstorms. Over time, this dust accumulated
in protected places, weathering to form a clayey material.
So what is clay? Defining clay depends on who you’re
talking to. To a geologist, clay is defined by its very small
particle size and the proportion of specific clay minerals.
To a potter, clay can be anything that behaves like
a clay. This usually means that it is plastic, or moldable
enough to hold its shape for making vessels, and that it
can survive the high temperature of the fire that renders
it permanently hard. For the most part the clay developed
from Saharan dust is not clay from a geological standpoint.
Yet these patchy deposits are the only usable mate-
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Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 31

ial for making pottery on these islands. Most other local
materials won’t work because limestone contains high
levels of calcium which makes pottery decompose when
fired at high temperatures. But usable does not mean
ideal. As we dug up these deposits, some much deeper
than others, we evaluated their properties. We tried rolling
the clay into balls, then forming a coil and finally arching
the coil. Cracking or breaking at any step is an indication
that the clay might not be plastic enough for pottery
making. Almost all of our clay samples failed these tests.
We don’t know what kind of tests the Lucayans may have
done, but they likely began with some failures as well.
Much of the Caribbean was once home to active volcanoes,
producing rocks that have weathered over time
to produce plenty of good quality clays. In many places
there is also abundant quartz sand, which can be added
to clays to provide strength. Additions such as this are
called tempers, similar to adding aggregate to cement to
keep it from cracking when it dries. Pottery making was
much easier in the Antilles.
There is no quartz sand in the Lucayan Islands,
only calcium-rich sand that would have made their pots
collapse when fired. When calcium-rich sand and shell
are heated in a fire they literally can explode. Instead,
the Lucayans figured out that by first burning and then
crushing conch shell it would become more stable and
rock-like when refired in the clay to a moderate temperature.
Conch shell temper made all the difference, helping
the stiff clay to hold its shape and form pottery vessels.
These shells were selected due to their abundance and
because the thick shells produce the larger fragments
needed to mix with the clay; thinner shells turn to powder
when heated. Researchers today understand that adding
the shell prevents cracking and thermal shock in fired
pottery, something the Lucayans clearly figured out long
ago.
The Lucayans were not simply explorers and settlers
of these new lands, but engineers and innovators too.
They likely tested different tempers, clays and firing temperatures
until they successfully created Palmetto Ware.
In the lab, we’ve been working on replication experiments
to determine what conditions produce the best pottery
with the available materials. We brought back clay samples,
burned a conch shell in a fire and then crushed it
to include into the ceramic recipe as a temper. We then
formed the clay into briquettes with various ratios of shell
temper, mixed with salt or fresh water, and fired to temperatures
ranging from 400º–800º C.
We compared the briquettes to archaeological
From top: When clay deposits found on the beach were formed into
an arch, they cracked, indicating that the clay is not plastic enough
for pottery.
Adding burned, crushed conch shell to pottery clay helps the clay hold
its shape and form pottery vessels.
Palmetto Ware and evaluated their hardness and color.
While some briquettes fired firm, others fell apart quickly
or soon after cooling, especially those fired at higher
temperatures. This told us that Palmetto Ware must have
been fired at lower temperatures, likely in the same range
as fires used for cooking. Even so, Palmetto Ware tends to
LINDSAY BLOCH
32 www.timespub.tc

e thicker and softer than traditional
Taíno pottery, crumbling fairly easily,
especially over time. The islands’
warm, moist environment makes for
poor preservation and other factors
like coastal erosion, sea level change
and weathering events make it difficult
to find intact artifacts or sites. In
fact, a whole Palmetto Ware pot has
never been recovered. What remains
of pots in the Lucayan Islands are
often small sherds.
Nevertheless, we have some
evidence that the Lucayans made
Palmetto Ware in some of the same
shapes and with the same decorations
as the pottery brought from
Hispaniola. These decorations include
incised parallel lines, cross-hatching,
appliqué, poked marks called
punctations, folded rims and animal
This experiment of firing the clay samples at
various temperatures showed that Palmetto
Ware must have been fired at temperatures
in the same range as fires used for cooking.
LINDSAY BLOCH
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 33

epresentations called adornos. Most Palmetto Ware
sherds are plain and undecorated, but this is due to their
small size and the limited placement of designs near the
top of the pot. These rough surfaces provide for a firmer
grip when moving the pot, while clay extending from the
vessel provides a cooler surface for lifting vessels from a
fire.
Sometimes we also find where clay was pressed
out onto woven mats, leaving a basket-like impression.
These mat impressions are also sometimes found on
bowls, where it looks as if the lower portion of the pot
was shaped in a basket. More often, these impressions
are found on even thicker, flat fragments of pottery griddles.
Griddles were used for baking cassava bread and
other types of food processing. In addition to acting as a
signature for the person who made the mat and the griddle,
the dimpled bottom increased the surface area and
enhanced thermal conductivity.
Palmetto Ware has long been considered simpler or
“inferior” to Taíno pottery due to its fragility and apparent
lack of decoration. This idea is belied by the fact that
modern archaeologists have struggled to experimentally
recreate Palmetto Ware. Rather than prove its simplicity,
these tests have shown the skill and expertise of the
Lucayans in their craft.
In the lab, we have now moved on to figuring out
more specifically where pottery was made, based on its
elemental “fingerprint.” By identifying the specific composition
of a potsherd, we can link it to a particular island
where we’ve found clay with the same fingerprint. For
example, we can tell the difference between pottery made
on Middle Caicos from pottery made on Long Island (The
34 www.timespub.tc

TWATIMES_Layout 1 2/16/17 7:49 AM Page 1
LINDSAY BLOCH
The specific composition of this Palmetto Ware griddle fragment can
help link it to a particular island where the clay was found. Note the
mat impression.
Bahamas) by the specific ratios of elements such as zirconium
and rubidium. We have also learned where the
Taíno pottery found in TCI was made, with much of it
coming from the northwest coast of what is now Haiti.
Compositional analysis allows us to determine what
the Lucayans and Taínos cannot tell us themselves —
how they moved and traded hundreds of years ago. This
includes what routes they may have taken, and just how
far of an influence they may have had. Peoples from Cuba
and Hispaniola traveled to what is now TCI, but also hundreds
of miles to the most northern parts of the Lucayan
Islands. Not only are we able to retrace their steps, but
also see how they adapted their technology to new conditions
and materials. Understanding Caribbean ceramics
is as much of an exploration for us as it was for the
Lucayans first figuring it out. a
Serving international & domestic clients in real estate, property development,
mortgages, corporate & commercial matters, immigration, & more.
TEL 649.946.4261 TMW@TMWLAW.TC WWW.TWAMARCELINWOLF.COM
Emily Kracht (BS Chemistry and Anthropology, University
of Florida 2021) is currently studying Caribbean pottery
with Dr. Lindsay Bloch, who is Collections Manager of
the Ceramic Technology Laboratory, Florida Museum of
Natural History (University of Florida). Substantial funding
for this research came from a National Geographic
Society grant (NGS-55292-19).
Dr. Bill Keegan is Curator of Caribbean Archaeology
at the Florida Museum of Natural History (University of
Florida); Dr. Betsy Carlson is Senior Archaeologist at
Southeastern Archaeological Research (SEARCH, Inc.) in
Jonesville, FL; Dr. Michael Pateman is former Director
of the Turks & Caicos National Museum and currently
Curator/Lab Director of the AEX Maritime Museum on
Grand Bahama.
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 35

GARY JAMES–PROVO PICTURES

feature
Opposite page: The rugged northern coastline of Middle Caicos is unlike any other in the country.
Above: This is Blue Horizon Resort (now known as Dragon Cay Resort) as it stands today, over 30 years since the Witts first arrived in the
Islands.
GARY JAMES—PROVO PICTURES
This is the story of three people who went into a difficult adventure that turned into a wonderful
experience.
Middle Caicos Pioneers
Michael, Mikki and Dale Marie Witt.
It all started in 1990 when my mother, Dale Marie Witt, had just lost her companion to a heart attack.
She wasn’t sure what to do next and we went to visit her in Buellton, California. In the course of our
conversations she said, “Why don’t we buy a bed and breakfast inn and the three of us could run it?” The
three being my wife, my mother and I.
Story & Historical Photos By Michael and Mikki Witt
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 37

At the time, I was a consultant for the U.S. Government
on some secret undersea submarines. However, there
was a delay in the program so my wife and I said, “It
sounds like a good idea.” We were also tired of traveling
back and forth from Anaheim, California to Washington
D.C. as often as twice a week. My mother said, “Let’s go
to Hawaii.” We made reservations and were off to Hawaii.
It was beautiful but everything was very expensive and we
did not find anything that suited us.
Where to go next? I had read an article about a place
called the Turks & Caicos Islands. No one seemed to
know where they were, but the pictures looked good.
After booking the tickets, we went to this place somewhere
south of the Bahamas and north of Hispaniola.
The airport where we landed in Providenciales was
very small, as was the terminal. We rented a car and it
didn’t take long to tour the island. We met with several
real estate agents. Nothing was that interesting on Provo
and we asked about the country’s other islands. Several
islands were mentioned, including one that was large but
not developed—Middle Caicos. It sounded interesting and
one agent said they had a listing there.
A chartered flight by small plane landed on the short
runway and we were met by taxi driver and landowner
Carlon Forbes. He took us to Bambarra Beach at the east
end of the island. He said his family owned land near
some grass huts. It was okay, but almost even with the
sea level. Once a year, the owners would have to allow
people to walk across the property to attend a beach festival.
We decided this was not what we wanted. The plane
would be back in a few hours so he said we should see
some of the rest of the island. He drove us to a place they
called Mudjin Harbour.
The only access was a small rough road that led
toward this cove. When we arrived, we were astonished,
as this was the most beautiful place we had ever seen.
Crystal-clear, brilliant blue waters were surrounded by
incredible rock formations. We assumed it was a national
park. After a brief visit, it was time to fly back to Provo.
We went to say goodbye to Phillip Misick at Prestigious
Properties, and to thank him for his help. We mentioned
Middle Caicos and Phillip asked us how we liked the
island. We said it was okay but the land we were shown
was not what we were looking for. One of us said, “Now if
you could get us Mudjin Harbour that would be different.”
Phillip replied, “It’s for sale and we have the listing . . .
but you said you were looking for 5 acres and that is 50
acres.”
It was owned by a German family. We asked if they
would subdivide it and he said no. He told us the price
and we gasped. Would they take terms? No, it would be
cash only. Mikki and I were already thinking of our next
destination in our quest for property in the Caribbean.
Yet back at the hotel, we kept talking about Mudjin
Harbour and how breathtaking it was. My mother said,
“Let’s go for it!” We just looked at her in disbelief. She
said, “We can take all the money that we have including
the sale of my California home and come up with a reasonable
offer.” Mikki and I looked at each other and said
“Yes!” Phillip presented our offer to the owners and they
accepted! The funds were transferred and the paperwork
was completed.
We owned Mudjin Harbour! Now, what to do? We had
no cash, a lot of land and we needed to sell lots to survive
financially. Middle Caicos was truly undeveloped with only
two telephones (police and the District Commissioner’s
office) and no Internet in those days. Isolated from the
other islands, the only access was by small plane or chartered
boat. The only communication was by VHF radio.
We went back to California.
My mother, Mikki and I returned to the Islands and
started figuring out what to do. We leased a house in the
nearby village of Conch Bar. One day we were sitting in
the beach cave and my mother looked out at the rocks in
the cove and said, “That looks like a dragon.” From then
on, it was known as Dragon Cay. At nght, we sometimes
had a visitor who sang outside our window. People told
us that was the father of one of our neighbors and to
just ignore him. There was a constant parade of chickens
from some nearby houses.
I rented a survey land station and Mikki held a survey
pole at hundreds of spots on the land. At night, we plotted
the survey points and their elevations. After returning
to the States, the contours were cut out and a scale model
of the land made. A master plan with roads, etc. was submitted
and approved by the TCI Government Planning
Department.
I finished up my consulting and the three of us went
back to our rental house. Several of my engineering
friends came down and bought lots. We advertised in
some magazines and people would come and stay in our
rental house. There were no survey markers. We placed
rocks about where lot lines would be located. We took
potential buyers to view the lots but it was the view that
sold them. At that point, the parcels were surveyed.
I shipped a 24-foot Carolina Skiff and a Yamaha
TW200 motorcycle to the island. Then, with a motorcycle
ramp in the boat, we could go to the next island and buy
38 www.timespub.tc

Clockwise from top left: Mikki and Dale Witt arrive at the small airport in Providenciales. Mudjin Harbour in Middle Caicos before development
was the most beautiful place the Witts had ever seen. Captain Lewis Neat piloted the Dale Marie. The Dale Marie was a 48-foot, self-propelled
barge with a shallow draft. Lovey Forbes and his band played at the “boat warming” party. It was attended by a number of dignitaries and
locals. The Dale Marie was able to haul a large fuel tanker. This 24-foot Carolina Skiff was the Witts’ first boat. In the beach cave, Washington
Missick and Robert Hall discuss the sale of Mudjin Harbour with the Witts.
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 39

groceries, gasoline and other items. There was no causeway
connecting North and Middle Caicos at that time.
How were we going to get building materials and
supplies to the island? Occasionally, a large barge came
around but not that often. On a trip back to Florida, I
noticed a self-propelled barge advertised. It had a shallow
draft which was needed for the local waters. Our friends
Ty and Pat Merritt offered to help us buy the boat. We
flew up to Maryland and bought the boat and named it
Dale Marie after my mother. It was still a little too much
draft with its propellers, so we bought out of Alaska and
installed a water jet drive.
The boat was shipped to the Islands. Who was going
to be the captain? I had heard about a guy called “Cap”
(Lewis Neat—now deceased). He was good with boats
and the biggest man on the island. We hired him. On
the maiden trips from Provo to Middle Caicos, we had
many adventures, from running aground to big swells
coming over the bow. I knew what an admirable person
he was when he said, “Mike—why don’t you stand in the
exit doorway and I will steer as the boat might turn over.”
Somehow, we made it. Along the shore of islands like
North Caicos along the way were lots of people waving,
as no one had ever seen a 48-foot boat traveling along
their shore. Then, we built docks on both Middle Caicos
and North Caicos.
We organized a “boat warming party” with the local
people, politicians and the TCI Governor. Lovey Forbes’
band was on board and off we went to do a river cruise.
Our friends Ty and Pat started dancing and everyone
joined the celebration. A contract was completed with the
government for weekend ferry service between Middle
and North Caicos. Dwight Hall was hired as the first mate.
It was very shallow in places so we did some dredging
in Bottle Creek. When running aground, an anchor was
placed and we winched the boat off the sandbar. One
time, Cap was out in the water with the anchor and this
really large shark swam right next to him. I yelled to
Cap and he said, “Don’t worry,” and continued with the
anchor. Another time, we came in at night and it was so
dark that we could not find the Middle Caicos dock. So
we just found a nice spot and anchored for the night.
There were many trips to Provo and sometimes we went
to South Dock twice a week. Once, we got back to Middle
and opened the 20-foot container on deck to discover it
was the wrong container! Oh well, back to Provo.
The first project on land was a metal pre-fab storage
building for a workshop and a place to keep materials.
Once the building was completed, we started on the
roads. I bought a bulldozer, crane truck, rock crusher
and a big rock wheel to cut trenches. Some days, we only
did 10 feet of trench, as there was some really hard rock.
For the next several years, we worked extremely hard and
built the main house and two cottages on each side.
In 1995, we met Sara Kaufman. She was also inspired
by the beauty of the area. We entered into a partnership
with Sara to build three more cottages. With the other two
cottages, this was called Blue Horizon Resort. Then, we
all worked together and marketed the resort as a vacation
destination. This was done in magazines and later on
the Internet. In the next several years, the resort became
known locally and internationally. It was very successful.
Hurricanes could be a major threat. During our first
few years in TCI, they were not a problem. In 1995,
Hurricane Erin formed over Provo and created two tornadoes.
In 1996, Hurricanes Bertha, Fran and Hortense
looked like they were coming right at us but curved and
stayed offshore. There were big waves, rain and some
wind. Hurricane Bonnie passed offshore in 1999. In 2004,
Hurricane Ivan came close with strong wind. Hurricane
Chris was strong and the path uncertain so we stayed in
the pump room of the new house we were building.
In September 2008, Hurricane Hannah passed to the
west of North Caicos and looped near Provo. It raised the
Caicos Banks to dangerously high levels. When the water
tried to escape, a ten-foot high storm surge destroyed
the recently built causeway between Middle and North
Caicos. Middle Caicos became isolated. Mikki was in
Mobile, Alabama and when she returned I had to hire a
small boat to pick her up on North Caicos. Then about
a week later came Hurricane Ike. This was a powerful
hurricane that passed just to the south of TCI. However,
the high winds were to the north and we received really
bad weather. On my wind instrument, over 140 MPH was
recorded! There was extensive damage to roofs and most
of the power poles blew down. We were without power
and telephones for many weeks.
The next series of storms from 2010 to 2017 were
Tomas, Dorian, Bertha and Cristobal. They brought rain
and a little wind but we survived okay. In 2017, Hurricane
Irma caused massive damage and loss of power across
the country. Hurricane Maria also created enough wind to
cause additional damage. I had to go to the hospital for
stomach problems and they were running on emergency
generators.
On Middle Caicos, we became very involved with the
community. During the week, my mother taught computer
classes to the children and I taught adult classes
40 www.timespub.tc

Clockwise from top left: The Witts’ first project on land was a pre-fab metal storage building/workshop. This bulldozer was one of several
pieces of heavy equipment brought in to build the roads. The Circle of Hope includes a stone bench overlooking the sea. At this memorial service,
Dale Witt’s ashes were spread over the sea. The Witts added stairs to a hidden beach below the resort. When the Witts moved to Florida,
Pastor Williams held a farewell church ceremony, thanking the Witts for their contributions to Middle Caicos and asking God’s blessing for
their future. In 2019, the Witts sold their house on King Hill to Alan and Margaret. Mike Witt flew hundreds of hours over the Islands in his
gyrocopter. The Witts were very involved with the community, here Mikki celebrates Christmas with some of the kids. Yvette Tapfir and Mikki
distribute presents to island children. This crane truck was also instrumental in building the main house and cottages.
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 41

This Middle Caicos panorama at sunset is a sight to behold.
on the weekend. The computers were donated by landowners and Blue Horizon Resort guests. This was the first
computer lab in any of the islands beyond Provo. At Christmastime, we bought presents for the island’s children from
landowner donations.
One interesting project was a garbage can painting contest where the winner received a prize. Another project
was “Paint the Island,” with paint donated by Sherwin Williams and local houses (including their roofs) painted. We
42 www.timespub.tc

GARY JAMES–PROVO PICTURES
also built many paths around the resort, including the “Hidden Beach” stairs, the “Circle of Hope” with its stone bench,
the benches in the beach cave and the ones overlooking Mudjin Harbour. The Community Center was air conditioned.
In partnership with the government, many other projects followed including improvements to the Conch Bar Caves,
docks for small boats, a path into Indian Cave, improvements at the airport, school playground equipment and more.
In 2000, the three of us were granted “Belongership” which carries all the rights as if we were born in the Turks
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 43

& Caicos. We were then able to vote and enjoy benefits
like going through immigration faster. We continued to
run the resort and it did well with a great reputation. My
mother started to have health issues and returned to the
U.S. in 2001.
Mikki and I started our home on “King Hill.” The
house was constructed of solid reinforced concrete, all
stainless steel fasteners, hurricane-proof windows and
built to withstand a category 5 hurricane. All water on
the island for household use is rainwater, so we added a
23,000 gallon cistern.
In 2007 we received an offer to buy the resort and
land around it from an Englishman, Mr. Gill. We accepted
the offer and moved into the King Hill house and sort of
retired. However, Mr. Gill asked me to design and build a
restaurant near Mudjin Harbour which was named Mudjin
Bar and Grill.
I obtained my private pilot’s license and flew around
the Islands in Cessna and Piper fixed wing aircraft. Then
I followed a teenage dream and built a gyrocopter! It was
really fun and I flew hundreds of hours over North Caicos,
Middle Caicos and East Caicos. It became known as the
“flying lawn chairs” or “bicycle in the sky.” It was a tandem
design and I took many people flying. Unfortunately,
in April 2017 I had an engine failure on take-off and
crashed into a hillside. We walked away but the gyro was
destroyed.
My mother died in 2016 and her ashes were brought
back to be spread over the sea at Mudjin Harbour and
the “Circle of Hope” was dedicated to her. There was a
memorial ceremony attended by family and members of
the community. They called her “Mama Dale” and she was
greatly loved.
We bought a condo in Florida to be closer to medical
care. The resort was sold by Mr. Gill and renamed
Dragon Cay Resort. In 2019, we sold our house on King
Hill. The couple were sitting in Mudjin Bar and Grill and
the bartender, Garnet, mentioned our house was for
sale. They came up to look and we had a meeting on the
screen porch. During that meeting and from then on, it
just flowed smoothly. They were not even looking to buy
a house, but the view was too beautiful to pass up. The
husband was a professor of theology and his wife mentioned
teaching at the local school. What a perfect match
for Middle Caicos!
It was time for our departure and our move to Florida.
Pastor Williams had a church ceremony and we received
a beautiful plaque thanking us for our contributions and
offering God’s blessing
for our future. The church
was an integral part of our
life on Middle Caicos and a
meaningful and wonderful
experience for us.
Our 30 years in Middle
Caicos were filled with
many difficult challenges
that were met and overcome.
We have many
happy and satisfying
memories. However, the
memories that we cherish
most are the people
of Middle Caicos and the
rest of the Turks & Caicos
Islands. Had it not been
for their love and support,
we would have not succeeded.
Thank you and
God bless you all. a
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ERIC CARLANDER–SHUTTERSTOCK

feature
Opposite page: Divers love the area off French Cay for the large number of Caribbean reef sharks that call it home.
Above: Graceful sea turtles are another common sight across the waters of the Turks & Caicos Islands.
MICHAEL MORTON–WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM
Treasures on the Reef
The TCI’s dive sites are a cornucopia of opportunity.
By Kelly Currington
Bags packed . . . dive gear checked . . . underwater camera ready to go . . . and you’re off! No matter
where your dive destination may be, there is undoubtedly a list of dive sites and locations for you to plan
your best diving. But there is often much, much more to a dive site than any map can show you.
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 47

In the Turks & Caicos Islands, our dive sites have so
much to offer in topography and interesting creatures
and features . . . it’s like having an underwater amusement
park at our disposal! As a dive professional here
since 2013, I’ve logged thousands of dives on these sites,
and each one has its own personality and vibe.
I would love to tell you about my “favorite” dive site
but as you will see, they are all my favorites for different
reasons. When you spend time on these sites, you start
to notice all the quirky and interesting characteristics that
make them special and they all hold their own hidden
riches. Let me take you on a treasure hunt . . .
Providenciales north
We’ll start on the north side of Providenciales where the
backdrop is world-famous Grace Bay Beach. The sites
along Grace Bay mostly share a common topography and
layout. It’s the shallowness of the sites east of the break
in the barrier reef that makes them different from other
sites in the country. Here, Pinnacles, Cathedral, Piranha
Cove and Coral Gables hold many surprises for divers.
The sunlight streams through the water and bounces off
the sugar-white sand reflecting like a disco ball in a nightclub.
The abundance of nutrients here contributes to the
wealth of reef fish. One thing I love most about diving
Provo’s north side are the hard-to-find I always find here.
But you must slow down and forget about all the big stuff
in order to find them!
The layout of these sites are spur and groove formations
of sand chutes and coral ridges running from south
to north—where a mini wall drops off to a mere 100 feet,
which is shallow for the Turks & Caicos. I love milling
around in the sand, trying to focus on each grain to see if
it’s actually sand or a tiny creature impostering as sand.
Anyone can see a shark cruising by or a turtle meandering
along the reef, but to find something like a netted
olive pushing a path below the surface of the sand is
quite an accomplishment, or maybe you’ll see the tip of
its whorl as it drills into the sand—either way it’s a special
find on any dive.
You might even see a magic carpet suddenly lift off the
sand and glide towards the coral. What is this creature?
Why, it’s a peacock flounder. It blends in so perfectly
with the sand that only a sharp and attentive eye will
see it before it moves. As it drifts from the sand to coral,
the magic continues as stunning violet circles suddenly
appear and the previous white carpet is now a beautiful
tapestry of color.
Next, your eyes are drawn to a slit pore sea rod. Why?
Because you know there’s another jewel that lives on
these soft corals and is relatively rare in these waters.
These little gems are small marine gastropod mollusks,
Peacock flounders blend so perfectly with the sand that only a sharp and attentive eye will seem them before they move.
48 www.timespub.tc

and their mantle resembles a human fingerprint in deep
yellow and black striations. The only crime these fingerprints
are used for is stealing time while you admire
them.
Providenciales northwest
Let’s head around to the northwest side of Providenciales
where there’s a whole new landscape waiting to be
explored. The reef is deeper here and the wall drops
off to staggering depths. Eel Garden, The Dome and
Amphitheatre, among others, hold opportunities for
encounters with incredible marine life and will broaden
your knowledge of the creatures that call this place home.
Caribbean reef sharks are regulars here, making appearances
nearly every dive, so you can spend your time
looking for more inconspicuous critters without feeling
like you’re missing the sharks!
One of the more comical creatures I have encountered
here are banded clinging crabs, which live in the shelter
of different types of sea anemones. They look like little
dancing Ewoks! Fuzzy faces and a little side shuffle as
they play hide-and-seek in the tentacles of their host will
have you giggling, and probably flooding your mask.
Another obscure resident found along this stretch
of reef is the yellowhead jawfish, a bottom-dwelling,
burrowing little fish that is so adorable you may think
If you look carefully, you might spot a male yellowhead jawfish with
a mouthful of eggs.
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 49

This “garden” of garden eels will mysteriously vanish if you get too close! It’s a treat if you can get close enough to see their smiles.
it isn’t real. As they float or hover above their burrows,
they resemble tiny ghosts doing a not-so-synchronized
dance—sort of a Casper chorus line. They appear to be
all white, but if you take your time and approach slowly,
you will see their heads are pale yellow and their eyes
are blue. If you approach too quickly, they will vanish
into their burrows in the blink of an eye. If you are lucky,
you might see a male with a mouth full of eggs, and if
you’re extra lucky, you will get to witness the male spitting
those little babies out, aerating them and sucking
them back in a split second—without losing a single egg!
As you comb over the terrain looking for movement
and color, you may suddenly see something that resembles
coral, but you feel it may be watching you. If you stay
very still and be patient, that piece of coral will start to
move and change shape, color and texture. It turns out to
be a cheeky little octopus hiding from you in plain sight!
It will keep its eyes on you as it reaches each tentacle into
crevices in search of a snack. Seeing one of these intelligent
invertebrates out during the day is a treat because
they normally hunt at night. Along North West Point, they
are seen regularly out during daylight; do you have a
sharp enough eye to find them?
I couldn’t talk about this area without mentioning
The Dome has transformed into an artificial reef, where hundreds of tiny creatures have made the frame home.
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the best game of peek-a-boo ever! We have these adorable
little eels called garden eels, because they look like
a “garden of eels.” They are cute members of the conger
eel family and like a mirage, the closer you get they
start to vanish! It’s quite a challenge to slowly approach
and see if you can get close enough to see their smiles.
You always want to make sure you are not laying on the
bottom and that your fins aren’t digging into the sand
because you could be unknowingly causing damage to
their burrows or other macro life.
No visit to the northwest side would be complete without
talking about The Dome. The remnants of an early
1990s game show have now transformed into an artificial
reef. Although the structure itself is a huge draw for divers,
it’s the marine life who use it as shelter that are the
real attraction. This structure is quite a sight to behold,
and the story behind it is almost too outlandish to be true
Spinyhead blennies use as home the pores of sponges that cover the
structure of The Dome.
(but it is), however, the remains have become a much
more valuable part of the reef than its original purpose.
This will be the best “Easter Egg” hunt you could go on.
Hundreds of tiny creatures have made the frame of the
dome their home, but can you find them? Secretary and
spinyhead blennies use as homes the deserted tubeworm
holes or the pores of sponges and they cover the entire
structure. Freshly hatched fry fill the nooks and crannies
of the frame, and bearded fireworms move around inconspicuously.
In and around the main structure you will often see
huge channel clinging crabs, green morays and juvenile
hairy clinging crabs using the artificial tube sponge inside
the main structure as a hiding place. They are usually
accompanied by a spotted moray laying the length of
the tubes. Don’t overlook the white sand fields and coral
ridges surrounding this artificial reef; they are full of life
and surprises! One of the little trinkets here are stareye
Stareye hermit crabs shuffle across the sand carrying their house.
hermit crabs shuffling across the sand. They are full of
personality and their beautiful blue eyes will hypnotize
you. They will duck inside their shells at first sight and
then slowly peek those baby blues out and see if you are
still there. When comfortable, they will carry on with sand
sifting and scuttling and amuse you with their comical
antics.
Before you leave this structure, take a very slow and
careful look on the frame for patches of purple. These
beautiful iridescent patches are tiny sargent major eggs.
They’ll be guarded by a male who’s normally white color
will now be a bright violet as a warning to you. Keep your
distance and watch him as he carefully fans his young to
keep them clean and picks algae from them. They are tiny
pearls of life . . . look but never touch.
West Caicos
West Caicos is currently an uninhabited island with a
unique history and some of the most dramatic walls for
diving in the Turks & Caicos. The great thing here is the
diversity of site layouts, covering almost every type of
preference. Starting at the north end of the island you
have Elephant Ear Canyon, and you can dive all the way
to the southernmost site at Spanish Anchor, covering a
wide variety of topography.
In the massive sectors of white sand at northern sites,
there is a wealth of macro life to be experienced by the
eagle-eyed diver. One of the coolest visuals is dropping
in, looking down and seeing the extensive maze of trails
laid out by all the conch—called “conch highways.” The
fun starts with trying to figure out which way they are
traveling and following the path and finding the driver.
Conchs are fascinating creatures who can entertain a
diver for an entire dive.
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 51

Can you see the face of a frog in this green sponge?
If you like smaller subjects to search for, one of the
little trinkets you will find in the sand here during the
Spring are flapping dingbats. (No, I’m not talking about
your dive buddy.) They are tiny sea slugs with wings that
wrap up around their bodies and if they are disturbed,
those wings flap like crazy—all housed within a creature
the size of a grain of rice! You will need perfect buoyancy,
patience and a keen eye to find these jewels.
Let’s not forget some inconspicuous fauna here. Just
like we see animal shapes in clouds as they float past,
there are some interesting images that appear in coral.
For instance, there is a green sponge that looks like the
face of a frog. Once you see it, the personality appears,
and you may find yourself talking to this “frog”—it makes
me giggle every time. There’s also a coral head that
resembles an old, bent witch. She sits alone in the sand
waiting for her next unsuspecting diver.
As you move further south along the reef, the
topography changes from open sand flats to a more
concentrated coral coverage with isolated rubbly areas.
But fear not, these sites hold some serious gifts of their
own. Horizontal swim-throughs, an entire network of hidey-holes
for creatures and an old Spanish anchor are just
some of the ingredients that make West Caicos a definite
favorite among divers.
There is one creature that is so rarely seen divers think
he is an urban myth, but I assure you he is real. He is a
broadbanded moray who has inhabited a specific coral
head along West Caicos for a minimum of 14 years, but
he is a master at hiding. We affectionately named him
Benny and he’s an oddity for sure. If you are lucky, and he
is feeling social, you will catch a glimpse of him peering
out from his den, which he has shared with a ruby star
and banded coral shrimp for the last 8 years; it’s a house
party at Benny’s! Did you bring your invitation?
In the swim-throughs at Gullies and Spanish Anchor,
you will initially think that the accomplishment of making
it to the exit is the best part, but by now you know I have
a different viewpoint on things. The thrill of swimming
Seahorses are a favorite of almost every diver. They easily move with
the ebb and flow of the water.
Benny is a moray eel who has inhabited a coral head along West
Caicos for at least 14 years.
though a horizontal chute is no doubt fun, but what’s
even more exciting is seeing it for more than just a formation
to “get through.” Creatures that like to be hidden
use these covered spaces as home. Eels, crabs and lobsters,
who all hunt under the cover of night, hide here
until the sunlight is replaced by moonlight. If you go slow
and take time to look in, up and around, you will find life
everywhere in this hidden realm.
52 www.timespub.tc

When a coney is in its xanthic phase, it is such a bright saturated shade of yellow it appears gold.
There is an old anchor embedded in the side of the
swim-through at Spanish Anchor, giving the site its
name. The amazing thing is that many divers swim right
past and never see it. The effects of being in the sea for
many years have transformed the anchor into a colorful
ornament that blends so well it can be invisible. Can you
find it?
There are two little residents here that are favorites
of almost every diver: the seahorse and the shortnose
batfish. Seahorses are skilled in resembling the flora they
hold onto and moving with the ebb and flow of the water,
making them extremely difficult to find. When this diamond
of the sea is found, take care to admire, smile,
giggle a little and make mental notes. If using a camera,
please keep the flashes and lights to a bare minimum
as they are extremely sensitive to light and will seek a
new hiding place. The shortnose batfish is just as hard to
find, but well worth the hunt. It blends in perfectly with
the sea bottom and moves very slowly along the bottom.
You may be a little confused at first sight of this strange
hodgepodge of features, but nature has no cookie-cutter
blueprint for life! This cutie has chicken wing legs, a flat
head with protruding lips, a scrawny tail and always looks
grumpy. It is not your classic beautifully colored reef fish,
but it has much character, and if you discover one you
will forget about looking for anything else.
French Cay
When all the stars align and the weather is permittable,
you can make your way south to a tiny plot of land
called French Cay. This bird sanctuary is the backdrop
to breathtaking walls that drop off into the abyss. The
most common reason divers love this area is the large
number of Caribbean reef and nurse sharks that call this
area home, which on its own is reason enough to dive
here. The “big stuff” is easy to see and always a thrill, but
there is so much more here if you take the time to look.
There is a fish here who stands out against all the
other colors of the landscape, its complexion so brilliant
it will stop you in your tracks. When a coney is in its xanthic
phase, it is such a bright saturated shade of yellow it
appears gold. At closer inspection, you will see blue dots
decorating the gold hue. Coneys’ expressions are priceless
as they try to keep an eye on you while pretending to
retreat, but they are actually moving towards you when
you look away; they’re sneaky like that.
Another creature I have only seen at French Cay is
the cherubfish. This bright violet fish with a golden face
is also called a pygmy angelfish and lives in holes and
crevices in coral heads. Extremely shy and elusive, your
patience will be challenged. They are so cute that once
you catch a glimpse of one, you will crave another look—
or two or three. I have spent an entire dive hovering in
one spot waiting for one to come out and see me. Even if
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 53

SHUTTERSTOCK
Nurse sharks often sleep during the day and hunt for food at night.
you don’t capture a photo or video of this gem, you leave
with the memory of a very special encounter.
I know I said the sharks are easy to see, because they
will swim directly at you without a care in the world, but
there is a very special shark here that has so much sass
and personality that she’s worth finding. She is a juvenile
nurse shark whom I’ve had the pleasure of watching grow
from a two-foot pup into a juvenile who’s earned her spot
on the reef among the big fish. She is easily identified by
her dorsal fin—the top has been sheared off so it does
not have a point, but rather a straight edge. It is surmised
that this happened when she was very small, the cartilage
was still soft, and she rammed herself under a coral ridge
while hunting. At the time of this article, she is about
four feet in length and a definite force to be reckoned
with. She sleeps during the day and will tolerate some
company as long as her space is not invaded. If you see
her napping, please just admire her from a respectable
distance, whisper, “Hello FinFin” and let her rest. She will
have a busy night of hunting and wreaking havoc when
the sun goes down!
Respect the ocean
You can look at a dive site map and find out the depth,
direction and basic features of a site, and you should
always pay attention to these maps. But also, always dive
every site with an investigative eye, compassionate heart
and a respect for the environment.
Remember, it’s not how far you go on your dive, it’s
the encounters you have along the way and the knowledge
you gain that differentiate a good dive from an epic
dive. Slow down, look around and you will find “gold”
everywhere. The jewels and treasures that call these
waters home are more valuable than any doubloon! a
54 www.timespub.tc

green pages
Newsletter of the Department of Environment & Coastal Resources
Head office: Church Folly, Grand Turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895
• Astwood Street, South Caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710
• National Environmental Centre, Lower Bight Road, Providenciales
Parks Division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793
Fisheries Division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793
email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web https://www.gov.tc/decr/
This is an adult male rock iguana on Long Cay. Feeding iguanas human food to lure them out for tourists is detrimental to their health and
the welfare of the eco-system on which they depend.
LILY FINN
Food for Thought . . .
Not Iguanas
How does tourism impact the endemic TCI Rock Iguana?
By Devyn Hannon, Jacqui Taff, Sedona Stone, Maddie Adkison, Lily Finn, Amber Johnson, Abbey Stewart,
Luke Monteiro, Kerry Bresnahan and Morgan Karns, The School for Field Studies
Hiking in the Turks & Caicos Islands: bright sunshine, stunning ocean views and . . . iguanas? Every tourist
dreams of seeing unfamiliar new creatures when they take a trip to a tropical oasis. One of the rarest
creatures to see is the cold-blooded Turks & Caicos Rock Iguana (Cyclura carinata), currently found on
only a few of the islands.
Edited by Julia Locke, Waterfront Assistant, The School for Field Studies
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 55

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
In the past, the rock iguanas inhabited all the islands
and cays in the Turks & Caicos Islands. This species
is native to Turks & Caicos and assists with seed dispersal
for native TCI plants, in contrast to the invasive
green iguana (Iguana iguana) that damages native wildlife
in Florida, and has recently invaded Providenciales.
Unfortunately, populations of the native rock iguana have
disappeared from 13 of the 40 islands and cays of the
Turks & Caicos over the past 20 years. Because of this
loss, the species is now designated as endangered on the
International Union of Conservation of Nature’s Red List.
Hunting, habitat reduction from development, human
disturbances and the introduction of exotic species that
either outcompete them for food or hunt them are all
factors that have contributed to the decline of the native
iguana population in TCI. As a result, they are now limited
to a few smaller islands like Big Ambergris Cay, which
inhabits the largest subpopulation of this species.
In an effort to expand the reduced range and population
size of this endangered reptile, 400 TCI Rock Iguanas
were relocated in 2001 from Ambergris Cay to Long Cay,
off the southern coast of South Caicos inside the Admiral
Cockburn Land and Sea National Park. The population
there appears to be thriving currently, but increased tourism
on Long Cay could affect their behavior and normal
diet as humans lure them into the camera frame with
food for their social media photos.
Although many people think feeding wild animals
is harmless, even helpful, studies have shown that the
long-term effects on diet and behavior can be detrimental
to a population. A study on a similar species from the
Bahamas found that iguanas fed by tourists were more
likely to consume trash and non-native foods, which disrupts
their digestive system. To observe whether this
trend occurs in the TCI, students from The School for
Field Studies (located on South Caicos) collected data on
the behaviors of iguanas from two beaches — one frequented
by tourists, and one seldom visited — on Long
Cay. The results of these observations suggest that TCI
Rock Iguanas at tourist-visited sites have become accustomed
to being fed. The following excerpt from our field
notes illustrates this clearly:
We hopped off the boat at Long Cay into the clear
blue water and waddled our way to the sandy shore, not
nearly as adept at traversing uneven terrain as our scaly
subjects. As we waded through the water, a small boat
These three male rock iguanas are eagerly awaiting a handout.
filled with tourists whizzed by us, also on their way to
see the iguanas that afternoon. Walking southwest along
the shore, we immediately noticed five eager iguanas
confidently running up to us. We enjoyed their fearless
attitudes as we took note of habitat type, as well as the
age and sex of the lizards, and we hoped to continue seeing
them along the rim of the island. However, as we
continued farther along this beach, there appeared to be
fewer iguanas that made their presence known.
Traveling up the path towards the top of the island,
where tourists often hike and feed iguanas, we came
across several more iguanas as they ran down the
well-trodden path to greet us and the tourists ahead. We
were soon overwhelmed by the iguanas on the path, struggling
to take note of their age and sex before we were
swarmed again. Many were bold enough to approach us,
gathering at our feet like golden retrievers running to
the door when their owners arrive home. It was exciting
to see such a rare species scampering across our toes,
but the similarities between their behavior and that of a
domesticated pet weighed heavily on our minds.
When we returned to Long Cay the next morning, we
trekked along the less visited shoreline, far away from
the path commonly used by tourists. We were greeted by
fewer iguanas than the day before, spotting only four in
total. Unlike the iguanas regularly fed by tourists, those
we spotted did not approach us, but scattered into the
brush and did not come clearly into sight, eager to escape
our presence and find safety in the vegetation.
DEVYN HANNON
56 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
The clear contrast in iguana behavior between both
locations demonstrated the immense impact that unnatural
feeding can have on an animal population. The iguanas
on the first beach had clearly habituated to humans and
their food, while those on the second beach exhibited the
species’ natural wariness.
We can surmise that this drastic change in iguana
behavior is correlated with human feeding because there
was little to no change of habitat type between these two
sites. Iguanas will return repeatedly to a feeding site if
transporting seeds around the island if they are too full
of food hand-delivered to them. As a result, the overall
environment and ecosystem on Long Cay may shift out of
balance.
Another potential consequence is aggression towards
tourists and other iguanas. Male rock iguanas are naturally
very territorial, and human provisioning makes them
more likely to ramp up that aggression as they compete
for the tourists’ handouts. In fact, while collecting data
on the tourist beach, one male iguana jumped at and
This is the tourist path on Long Cay where iguanas are fed.
LILY FINN
they are consistently successful, so it comes as no surprise
that the tourist site was filled with them. With so
many people coming to visit and feed these iguanas,
they will become more dependent on human provisioning,
leading them to forage less for themselves and to
consume food that does not have all the nourishment
they need. An unbalanced diet will give them less energy
to escape predators and reproduce. Plus, they will fail
to fulfill their ecological role of pruning shrubbery and
scratched a member of our group, perhaps frustrated at
not being fed. This was a trained group of students, with
no food to offer, so we can only imagine how bouts of
aggression may increase in the future when more tourists
lure iguanas with food.
These unfortunate effects of tourists feeding wildlife
can be seen all around the world. In the quest for a photo,
vacationers have been attacked by monkeys in Thailand
and South Africa, kangaroos in Australia, and bison in
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green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
Yellowstone National Park. These animals are becoming
accustomed to the food that tourists are giving them,
possibly leading them to attack each other in competition
for that food, or humans that do not provide any. As mentioned,
the foods normally offered by tourists, such as
fruit or granola bars, are terrible for the animals’ digestive
system and overall health. Furthermore, their natural
foraging abilities will disappear if generations become
accustomed to humans feeding them.
As exciting as these incredible animals can be up
close, our study demonstrates the rapid, negative effects
that tourist feedings can have on iguanas and other wild
animals. Tourists who wish to observe these wonderful
critters should grab a pair of binoculars, rather than food,
to get a good look at the iguanas on Little Water Cay’s
boardwalk experience. After all, observing an animal’s
natural behaviors, undisturbed, in its native habitat is a
far more rewarding and special experience. Most importantly,
iguanas with natural diets and environments are
happier and healthier, making the experience more fun
and safer for both the iguanas and their admirers. The
rock iguanas are also Belongers of the Turks & Caicos
Islands, and responsible iguana excursions are essential
to help this species thrive. Leave smiles, not snacks! a
For additional information about The School for Field
Studies, visit www.fieldstudies.org or contact us on
South Caicos at hhertler@fieldstudies.org.
Below: This juvenile rock iguana is hidden in the brush of Long Cay.
LILY FINN
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As part of the RumPowered Research survey, TCRF staff and volunteers came prepared to treat Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease. Over the
course of the trip over 80 reproductive, large, priority colonies were treated across three dive sites at Drum Point, East Caicos.
RumPowered Research
East Caicos reefs surveyed thanks to distilleries.
By Alizee Zimmermann and Don Stark ~ Photos By Patricia Guardiola
East Caicos remains the largest uninhabited island in the Turks & Caicos and is likely one of the largest,
if not the largest, uninhabited island in the entire Caribbean region. In 2018, the Turks & Caicos Reef
Fund (TCRF), funded by a grant from the EU’s BEST 2.0 program, conducted extensive surveys of the reefs
around the island to establish a baseline health assessment of its reefs. We found that those reefs were
by far the healthiest reefs in the Turks & Caicos Islands.
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In October 2021, the Turks & Caicos Reef Fund (TCRF)
teamed up with Explorer Ventures, who operate the Turks
& Caicos Explorer II liveaboard dive boat, to revisit the
reefs of East Caicos. This time the effort was funded by
generous donations from three rum distilleries: Woody
Creek Distillers, Bambara Rum and Mount Gay Barbados
Rum. Thus, RumPowered Research was born. Additional
funding came from private donations and from the Wine
Cellar, TCI Greens, Atlantic Gulf Rapid Reef Assessment
(AGRRA) and Ocean Alchemists. For six days at sea
aboard the TC Explorer II, the yacht crew, TCRF volunteer
and staff divers and TCI Government Fisheries staff conducted
surveys across the East Caicos reefs.
The previous survey of the East Caicos reefs occurred
prior to the arrival of Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease
(SCTLD) on TCI’s reefs, so one of the primary goals of
the week-long trip was to assess how SCTLD has affected
those reefs which are exposed to virtually no human
impact. Not only will these surveys provide an updated
baseline of reef health of the East Caicos reefs, but will
also provide insight into how impactful the human element
is in the spread and veracity of the disease. Ten
of the sixteen sites from the 2018 surveys were chosen
for re-surveying as these ten were previously observed
to have the densest coral cover. The data is still being
analyzed, but SCTLD is present on the East Caicos reefs.
Given how healthy these reefs were and how SCTLD
has had a significant impact on other TCI reefs, TCRF
staff and volunteers came prepared to treat the disease.
Over the course of the trip, over 80 reproductive, large,
priority colonies were treated across three dive sites at
Drum Point, East Caicos. Each coral colony treated was
tagged so that its health can be monitored on an ongoing
basis. In addition, over 20 roving diver surveys were conducted
on other sites to assess how SCTLD has affected
the East Caicos reefs.
The trip also served as an opportunity to increase the
TCI’s capacity for reef health monitoring. TCRF’s Alizee
Zimmermann and TCIG Fisheries Department’s Richard
Archer trained and certified seven new volunteers in
Atlantic Gulf Rapid Reef Assessment (AGRRA) methodologies,
a system used by many researchers to assess and
monitor reef health. AGRRA operates on a platform of
open-sourced information and education and continues
to support TCRF efforts through data analysis, training
materials and scientific advice.
In October 2021, TCRF teamed up with Explorer Ventures who operate
the Turks & Caicos Explorer II liveaboard dive boat to revisit the reefs
of East Caicos.
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Above: Founded in 2010, the Turks & Caicos Reef Fund is the only active environmental advocacy organization in the TCI.
Below right: Over 20 roving diver surveys were conducted on other sites to assess how SCTLD has affected the East Caicos reefs.
The 2021 expedition marks the inaugural
RumPowered Research expedition. The plan is to use
RumPowered Research to fund a variety of conservation
work throughout the TCI as well as regionally. Explorer
Ventures and TCRF have also begun discussions on future
meaningful tourism itineraries. These would be special
week-long trips open to the public who want to learn
about and assist with the research work TCRF undertakes.
Explorer Ventures, who also helped to underwrite
the cost of the trip, has worked with TCRF on numerous
projects focused on protecting the local environment.
Explorer Ventures is committed to enhancing sustainable
operations and encouraging conservation worldwide. a
Founded in 2010, the Turks & Caicos Reef Fund is the only
active environmental advocacy organization in the TCI. It
is an all-volunteer-run organization that provides funding
for education, research and conservation programs
to individuals, organizations and agencies that help to
preserve and protect the environment of the Turks &
Caicos Islands. Our goal is to have at least 85% of all
funds raised directed to programs. To donate or assist
the TCRF in any way can contact us at www.TCReef.org.
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 61

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
MICHAEL MORTON
For the people of the Turks & Caicos Islands, their entire culture and existence revolve around the ocean and the coast.
TCI Coastal Culture Values
Culture. What is it? And why should we care?
By Oshin Whyte
If you had told me a year ago that I would be moving back home to the Turks & Caicos Islands (after
living in England for six years) to study culture, I would most likely think that you are having a laugh. My
earliest memory of structured exposure to my culture was when I was around nine and then-Director of
Culture David Bowen created a culture club at my primary school, Oseta Jolly. He would visit once a week
to tell us stories about our islands and ancestors, explain how to use bush medicine, sing folk songs and
teach us to tie the maypole. I thoroughly enjoyed those afternoons. I always learnt something new, but
most importantly, I genuinely felt like I was a part of something and that I belonged. It would not be until
almost two decades later that I consciously think about culture and its importance.
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In 1979, anthropologist Raymond Williams made a
rather bold statement by saying, “Culture is one of the
two or three most complicated words in the English
Language.” We would soon realise that he is correct, as
decades later the definition of the term “culture” is still
an area of debate in anthropology and sociology. Culture
in and of itself is a dynamic process, and it is understood
that people live culturally rather than in cultures. It is
to society what memory is to individuals, and as such
includes traditions that enlighten us on what has worked
in the past. Encompassing the way people have learned to
look at themselves and the environment, it highlights an
interconnection between humans and their landscapes.
It is said that we stay alive by anchoring our existence
to places. This interconnectedness between people’s way
of life (culture) and the natural world can be so strong
that removal from that environment can cause a feeling
of loss of self and purpose. This is evident in communities
where fishing is at the centre of their social structure
and identity. It is a way of life for these communities and
fishers often continue working in a failed fishery as their
communities depend on fisheries for their cultural identity.
The Turks & Caicos are no different in this regard.
Our entire culture and existence revolve around the
ocean and the coast. We are an island nation and inevitably,
ocean people. From salt raking to whale hunting to
the now-booming tourism industry, the ocean has shaped
and continues to shape who we are as a people and reinforces
our sense of identity.
However, this is not a topic that is spoken about
extensively in the Islands. Persons tend to speak about
the monetary benefits that they get from the coast
through marketing our sun, sand and sea but very rarely
do we speak about the non-material benefits of the
coastal landscape and how this affects our human experience
and our understanding of self. These non-material
benefits that we get from the natural world are known as
cultural values. They are not directly observable in the
physical landscape and manifest themselves in the form
of cognitive interactions with the environment, such as
spiritual and/or religious experiences, inspiration for culture,
sense of place, existence and bequest values and
symbolic services. Due to their intangibility, cultural values
have not been well documented and operationalized
in marine spatial planning.
From top: Fishing, such as these fishermen spearfishing in South
Caicos in the 1970s, is part of the shared heritage of Turks & Caicos
Islanders.
The beautiful seas surrounding the country are one of the main reasons
people choose to live in the Islands, forging a deep connection
with nature.
LELAND NEFF
MATT WEEDON
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green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
In late 2020, I was awarded a research scholarship
by the South Atlantic Environmental Research Institute
(SAERI) to investigate the coastal cultural values of the
Turks & Caicos Islands, under the supervision of Dr.
Robert Fish and Dr. Mark Hampton at the University of
Kent. Through this master’s research project, I strive
to understand the various cultural values that persons
associate with the coastal landscape of TCI and how they
can be used to inform marine spatial planning and the
decision-making process. While it is rare to speak about
cultural values in TCI, it is even rarer to go into each community
to capture the voices and thoughts of the people.
I travelled to the islands of Providenciales, North
Caicos, Middle Caicos, Grand Turk, South Caicos and Salt
Cay to document the non-material benefits residents get
from the coast. These interviews focused on cultural values
such as lifestyle, heritage, identity, attachment, well
being and aesthetics.
The most spoken-about value across the Islands was
aesthetic and interviewees found attributes such as the
crystal-clear waters, bird watching, watching the sunrise
and hearing the waves crash aesthetically pleasing. They
also found mangrove wetlands, salt ponds, iron-shore
and marshland beautiful. They explained feeling a deep
sense of joy and peace when experiencing these things
and places, which has a positive impact on their overall
well being.
“One of the things I value about the coast is the
beauty. I like the beauty. I like to see the waves coming
up alongside the shore. Nature. The wonders of God and
appreciating the inexplicability of how this awesome universe
has been created.”
–Interviewee, South Caicos
The aesthetics of the coast is one of the main reasons
interviewees choose to live in the Islands. They appreciate
the fresh air, minimal pollution and ability to form
a deep connection with nature. Other prominent values
were heritage, lifestyle and identity. These three values
are interconnected, and it was seen that the heritage of
interviewees impacts their lifestyle, which in turn helps
them establish a sense of identity. On the island of Salt
Cay, these values were evoked through practices that are
now regarded as dead or dying traditions such as whale
hunting and salt raking. However, these activities represent
where they are coming from as a people and their
shared heritage and residents have fond memories that
they look back on with pride.
On other islands, these values were enabled
through practices such as fishing, South Caicos Regatta,
Fisherman’s Day, Junkanoo, Valentine’s Day Cup and
playing rake and scape. It is important to highlight the
practice of fishing, as it was one of the major industries in
the Islands and while tourism has taken the lead, fishing
is still a revered practice, and the native fishermen take
pride in their heritage.
“I come from a family of hullers/ fishermen. My talent is
handed down from my forefathers and I have to be proud
of that.”
–Interviewee, South Caicos
ROBERT A. METCALFE–SHUTTERSTOCK
Fishing—and eating the daily catch—is an important part of Turks & Caicos cultural heritage.
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“I feel left behind if I don’t go out exploring the ocean
floors. It’s like a dead day to me. When I am out there (on
the sea) that is when I get my full energy. I feel energised.
I am way happier and content.”
–Interviewee, South Caicos
These cultural practices serve as a means of tying the
community together and creating a sense of togetherness
as well as rootedness.
“The coastal impact here in the Turks & Caicos is just as
important as the sun shining every morning because the
beach is really Turks & Caicos. The beach, the donkeys,
the sea, it is us. What ties us all together beyond the people
is the beach.”
–Interviewee, Grand Turk
To the people of the Turks & Caicos, these cultural
values make life worth living. They are woven on the
very fabric of their being and help them understand their
past— but most importantly, navigate their future. Each
new development on the Islands presents the opportunity
for the inclusion of cultural values in the decision-making
process. The coast provides far more than mere material
benefits and it is time that the leaders of the Turks &
Caicos Islands understand and put this at the forefront of
our master plan. Only through understanding who we are
and where we’re coming from will we be able to understand
where we are going.
I came home to document the cultural values of my
people. In the process, I found a piece of myself that I did
not know was lost. This is precisely why this topic is so
important. To each of my interviewees and the persons
who have helped me along the way, thank you. You all
have made this research project an enjoyable experience
and have imparted so much wisdom that I will carry with
me throughout this lifetime. I am forever grateful.
I leave you, the reader, with this piece of advice that
was bestowed upon me in Salt Cay, “When you respect a
person for who they are and they respect you for who you
are, life becomes so sweet.” a
MAGNETIC MEDIA
From top: Islanders partake in traditional maypole weaving as part of
National Heritage Month.
Model sailboat building and racing recalls the days past when sloops
were a necessary mode of transportation between islands and other
countries.
TOM RATHGEB
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MATTHEW MATLACK–SEA TURTLE CREATIVE

around the islands
Opposite page: Local student Janella Forbes won the film festival poster competition with this painting “Mother Earth.”
Above: John Galleymore and Mat Matlack were present at the public screening of their documentary “East Caicos Expedition” at the Turks &
Caicos International Film Festival.
CARLOS PITA
Lights, Camera, Action!
Third Annual Turks & Caicos International Film Festival.
By Matthew Matlack, Sea Turtle Creative
When I received notice that the documentary short, “East Caicos Expedition” (www.eastcaicosexpedition.
com), had been accepted into the Turks & Caicos International Film Festival, I was elated. I shot the film
over three whirlwind days in October 2019 with the plan being to take the next six months to edit the
video and submit it to the 2020 festival. The festival was limited to a virtual event that year and I really
wanted to attend in person IF the film was selected, so I made the tough decision to hold on to the film
for another year. But the wait made its acceptance into the festival even sweeter!
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 67

Much like the quick trip to film the expedition on
East Caicos, I flew into Provo on Thursday, November
11, 2021 and had an early flight on Sunday to get back
home. I went to find The Shore Club while it was still
daylight, so I knew where I was going the next morning.
I became envious of those attending the Thursday events
as I followed along on the Turks & Caicos International
Film Festival (TCIFF) Instagram feed. I had hoped to experience
a little Junkanoo, but the Thursday Night Fish Fry
wasn’t happening at The Bight Park due to COVID. (I hear
it’s coming back soon?) So, I headed down to the beach
to take a dip and catch the sunset.
On Friday morning, I was thrilled to be up early and
excited for the film to screen that day. I headed to Shay
Café in Le Velé Plaza for latté and breakfast. I met a kind
young lady working there and we exchanged YouTube
channel information. I love meeting other people who
are passionate about what they are creating. There is so
much life in that.
The first session of the day was the Young Turks Art
Exhibition and Screenings. My film was included in this
session because of the ancient petroglyphs found in the
cave. When I arrived, I came upon a media event for all the
youth who contributed paintings to the festival’s poster
contest. I was able to peruse all of the wonderful pieces
of art and fell in love with the winning poster “Mother
Earth” by 17-year-old Janella Forbes.
There were two films shown as part of the art screenings
and “East Caicos Expedition” was the second one.
Festival Director Collin Burrows invited me up to introduce
the film. It was a thrill to be in the room with 50–75
people experiencing the film for the first time. The sound
system and projector were first class. The film was well
received, especially by the young people in the room, and
that made me so joyful.
The festival took a break for lunch and I made my way
to Bugaloo’s, now located on Grace Bay Road. I started
doing research about where to get a COVID test for my
return on Sunday. I missed the Music Producer’s Panel at
the festival, which was a bummer.
But I made it back for the short films and was blown
away by them. I was very inspired by the film “Antonese”
by Conchboy Films (only.one/watch/antonese). The
short takes you on a journey with Bahamians on Cat
Island who learn to embrace the ocean and become modern-day
superheroes to overcome their fears of what lies
below the surface.
That evening was a festival gala. The high ticket
price meant that this starving artist had to sit it out, but
again, I followed along on Instagram and got to see folks
enjoying their evening with Nile Rodgers and other celebrities.
I ended up having drinks and a great dinner at
Mango Reef with the star of “East Caicos Expedition,” John
Galleymore. It was no gala, but we had a great time celebrating
the screening of the film!
I was excited for another full day at the festival on
Saturday, which started with the Writer’s Panel. Here, we
heard from TV and film producers Jamund Washington
(“First Baptist,” “Gimme the Loot”) and Deniese Davis
(“Insecure,” “The Misadventures of Awkward Black Girl”),
plus artist manager, Krystle Hartsfield (Sony, Roc Nation,
Moonshot). It was insightful to hear of their experiences
in the industry, motivating to have them advise on how
to get noticed, and encouraging to hear them speak of
having “that one person” who helped them . . . now, they
are the ones giving back.
The evening session was very well-attended. We
enjoyed a wonderful interview by Festival Director Colin
Burrows with actor Brian Cox (“Braveheart,” “The Bourne
Identity,” “X2: X-Men United,” “Troy”). Then we had the
pleasure of watching a new episode of Brian’s latest HBO
series, “Succession.” It has some amazing actors. The
characters are horrible people, but it’s a great show.
That evening’s gala was in full swing as I was departing
the resort to head back to my Airbnb. But I ended
up chatting with Festival Organizer Lizzie Foster and she
convinced me to join the festivities. So I changed out of
my flip flops and put on a collared shirt—there was a
red carpet, after all. I got to enjoy the company of Daniel
LeVin, one of the guides of the expedition to East Caicos.
Then I felt like an A-lister as tons of screaming fans
shouted my name and the flashes of the cameras blinded
me while I was strutting down the red carpet! No, that
didn’t happen, but I did get my picture taken on the red
carpet as I made my way to the showing of “Eternals,” the
new Marvel movie. I was impressed by the amazing surround-sound
from a portable system. Kudos to the crew
running it! At almost three hours, the film felt a bit long,
but was enjoyable.
I had a hard time understanding how Marvel movies
connected with the film festival. I was pleased to hear
Colin speak about Disney (who owns Marvel) declaring
they are working to make their film productions, resorts
and theme parks more sustainable and green (thewaltdisneycompany.com/environmental-sustainability/).
That’s welcome news.
You see, some of the purposes of the festival are to
honor the oceans, to lift up creators that are doing works
supporting ecological awareness and to expose the world
to all that the Turks & Caicos Islands have to offer. I just
love an organization with purpose and these resonate
with me.
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The festival had beach parties and special dinners.
There was so much going on that I wasn’t able to make
it to everything. I really wanted to see Andre Musgrove’s
“Child of the Cenote,” but I was high above the blue
waters (on the plane) when his film screened.
I’m thrilled for the TCI to have such a wonderful
film festival. Karen Whitt (festival chairperson) and Colin
Burrows, along with the rest of the festival board and volunteers
created an amazing experience. I think 2022 is
going to see the festival grow as the word gets out about
this gem. I hope to see it flourish. a
MATTHEW MATLACK–SEA TURTLE CREATIVE
Filmmaker Mat Matlack is based in Columbia, Missouri
with one foot in the Bahamas. He and his wife Shannon
enjoy exploring the North Atlantic and Caribbean.
They have two potcakes and a love for all island dogs
plus a passion for protecting the ocean’s fragile, yet
extremely important, ecosystem. Their 8-year-old daughter
sometimes joins them on the adventures. (Visit
SeaTurtleCreative.com).
At left: Poster competition winner Janella Forbes and her mother stop
for photos as they walk down the red carpet.
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 69

astrolabe
newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Front Street, PO Box 188, Grand Turk, Turks & Caicos Islands, BWI TKCA 1ZZ
tel 649 247 2160/US incoming 786 220 1159 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org
Fritz Ludington is one of the original developers of Providenciales.
Island Visionary
The late “Fritz” Ludington helped initiate development on Providenciales.
By Dr. Carlton Mills ~ Images Courtesy Turks & Caicos National Museum
Over the last fifty years, what was once known only as Blue Hills (now Providenciales), has witnessed
a remarkable transformation. One of the key players in this process was the late Frederick Ludington
(affectionately known as Fritz).
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
The original developers of Providenciales are shown here during
the dredging of Turtle Cove (from top left): Fritz Ludington, Allan
Axt, Billy Dodson, Embry Rucker, Jessy Deets, Bengt Soderqvist, Bill
Watts and Bob Kellogg.
Fritz was an American who had investments in
George Town, Exuma, The Bahamas where he built a
small boutique hotel called Two Turtles. Fritz had put his
life’s savings in this investment. His dream was to make
Exuma his home. This was about to change.
One of the factors that impacted his life in The
Bahamas was when the late Sir Lyndon Pindling became
prime minister in the early 1960s. On assuming office,
the Pindling administration embarked on a call for
nationalization—the theme being The Bahamas is for
Bahamians. Family members recalled that work permits
fees increased astronomically overnight. Fritz saw this as
a sign to get him out of The Bahamas. The straw that
broke the camel’s back came when his boat was mysteriously
burnt down. It was time to leave. Providenciales was
next on his radar.
Fritz flew over Providenciales regularly en route to
Puerto Rico. This island caught his eye from the air. He
developed a fascination for it, realizing the enormous
potential waiting below to be exploited. It was possibly
the golden sandy beaches and the turquoise waters that
attracted him. Subsequently, he decided to stop over and
check out the possibilities.
According to the 1960 Population Census,
Providenciales had a population of about 518 persons.
At the time, there were no major roads, no public electricity
supply and no running water and other essentials
in Providenciales. This certainly presented a challenge for
Fritz from the outset, but he was not deterred from his
mission to embark on developing the island into a major
tourism destination.
In order to begin this mammoth task, Fritz had to
first submit his development proposal to government for
approval. The late Hon. Gustarvus Lightbourne, a member
of the Legislature at the time, strongly argued with
his colleagues for this project to be approved. He firmly
believed that this initiative would be the project that
would ignite the growth and development of the island.
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
This is the original “airport” in Providenciales in the early 1970s.
The development proposal that was submitted by
Fritz included:
• The construction of a 4,500 foot coral surface airfield.
• Construction of a jetty for Five Cays which was eventually
relocated to South Dock to facilitate the docking of
larger vessels.
• Road development linking all three settlements (Blue
Hills, Five Cays and The Bight).
• Dredging Sellars Pond and making a channel from the
ocean to the pond so that it would be used as a harbour.
• Building of a hotel with at least 10 rooms.
• Employment of a certain number of Turks & Caicos
Islanders.
• Requisition of 4,000 acres of Crown Land for development.
Fritz’s request for 4,000 acres of land from the Turks
& Caicos government on a lease basis was not readily
accepted by the government or the populace as many
argued at the time that it was a mistake to give so many
acres of land to a foreign developer. Hon. Lightbourne,
on the other hand, saw it as the only way forward for
Providenciales. The project eventually got the blessings
of the government.
Following approval by the local Legislature, Fritz and
his partners set to work. It was necessary to import heavy
duty equipment and other supplies. The heavy equipment
included bulldozers, tractors, graders and trucks, which
were sourced in the USA, while other supplies including
canned food items and fuel were sourced from the neigbouring
Dominican Republic. The first challenge was to
clear customs in South Caicos before having their boat
guided by the late “Gus” Lightbourne and Charlie Rigby
to Providenciales—a pivotal task!.
Scenic Turtle Cove was the area selected by Fritz
to construct his hotel. He aptly named it “Third Turtle
Inn” following the sequence from The Bahamas. During
development of the hotels in The Bahamas, Fritz had
established a link with a real estate developer in Florida.
He used this individual to promote his project in
Providenciales. Fritz divided his 4,000 acres of land into
residential and commercial properties.
His first marketing approach was to advertise for
pilots who would fly down to the island in their private
aircraft. He was also able to attract a number of investors
in the project. These included: Mrs. Julia Barber, Tommy
Coleman, Richard C. Dupont Jr., Rogers C.B. Morton,
Teddy Roosevelt lll, Peter Thompson, Richard S. Dupont,
and Bengt Soderqvist. One of the team’s first tasks was to
push a road from Heaving Down Rock to Turtle Cove. The
heavy equipment that was imported was utilized for this
mammoth undertaking. Bengt’s role was also to survey
the land and properties.
This group soon became known as the Seven Dwarfs.
Fritz’s real estate development program attracted invest-
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Providenciales’ first airport was known as “Ludington’s International.”
Below: Fritz Ludington’s contributions to the TCI were officially recognized in 1980.
ment potential from people such as: Frank Fairchild,
Doc Withey, Ed Erickson, Robert Guise, Eddie Erickson,
Ray Hall and Ward Thompson. Ray ended up building the
Erebus Inn which was an extension of Fritz’s Third Turtle
Inn. Ward Thompson bought land and later developed
what is still known as Thompson Cove.
These investors eventually formed a partnership
known as Provident Limited. Each partner was granted 20
acres of land. Since there was no public electricity supply
at the time, each resident purchased personal generators.
Since so many of the white residents had purchased generators,
they eventually decided that it would be more
appropriate to have a central generator that would provide
electricity to the group. This led to the formation of
the Provo Power Corporation (Provo Corp). Each individual
connected to the grid paid monthly electricity bills.This
eventually lead to the electrification of Providenciales.
The late Scott Perkins was put in charge of the maintenance
and upkeep of the generator and electrical supplies
while Doc Withey was responsible for the management of
the operation.
Traveling to Providenciales was another challenge
as there was no major airport nor international flights.
In order to assist his guests and other potential investors
to get into Provo, Fritz promoted shuttle flights from
Florida twice weekly using a World War ll DC-3 aircraft.
In 1967, Lew Whinnery started an inter-island air service.
Fritz, along with Owen Cassaway, eventually bought out
the company establishing Caicos Airways Limited. By
1968, they were using the Beechcraft Bonanza which they
replaced a year later with a Twin Beech, eight-seater aircraft.
They also maintained a Cessna for charter flights.
As more persons expressed interest in residing and
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 73

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
investing in Providenciales, a greater demand was placed
on the Provo Corp to provide services. In the words of
Bengt Soderqvist, the Corp grew like a web. Eventually,
because of the huge demand, it became almost impossible
for the Corp to manage the supply and demand that
was being created. As a result, they eventually agreed to
sell the Corp to the owners of Provo Power Company in
the 1980s.
Fritz can be credited for being one of the major
pioneers that ignited this remarkable change in
Providenciales in just over fifty years. He not only set
the stage for our tourism development, but he also
contributed to the development of the electrification of
Providenciales. This was not by any stretch of the imagination
a simple task. This initiative was indicative of a
man who possessed drive, enthusiasm, determination
and fortitude. It is obvious that Fritz’s vision is alive and
well in the TCI. He was a trailblazer.
It is sad and unfortunate that he has not been given
the respect or the acknowledgement for his tireless
efforts. The PDM administration (1976–80), saw it fitting
to name the airport in his honour. a
Museum Matters
Bricks have arrived
We are excited to announce that the memorial and decorative
bricks, purchased in support of the museum at
both locations, have arrived. We are extremely pleased
with the quality of the engraving and the logos. We are
determining exactly where we want the bricks on Grand
Turk placed and will be installing them soon. If you
ordered a replica tile, we will begin distributing those.
We plan to find a way to display the bricks at the
current Providenciales location. These bricks were purchased
in support of constructing a new building on
Providenciales and the bricks will be part of the new
building project.
The fundraiser for the engraved bricks will continue.
Once people see them we hope that additional orders
will be placed.
• Providenciales—All proceeds from the brick purchases
there will go towards the new museum building
on Providenciales.
• Grand Turk—All proceeds from the brick purchases
for Grand Turk will be used for the operations, projects
and exhibits for the Grand Turk Museum.
Bricks can be purchased for a cost of $100, $250
or $500. You choose the wording and for an additional
$25 have the option to include artwork. For more information,
contact us or visit our website. a
Lucayan educational materials distributed
We have begun reaching out to schools throughout the
Turks & Caicos to deliver Lucayan Education Materials.
The museum received the materials from the University
of Oxford–SIBA project. Each school will receive a set
of 10 posters depicting the lifestyles of the Lucayans.
Teacher guides and student booklets are also provided.
The materials have been very well received by
students, teachers and principals. The posters, booklets
and guides are durable and colorful. We will continue
to present the materials to schools during this school
year. a
School visits
Both museum locations were pleased to have recent visits
from several schools. Provo Middle School had two
74 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
additional products.
• Our dedicated group of volunteers continue to keep
this location open and improving.
Students in Grand Turk are among the first to receive the new Lucayan
Education Materials.
separate classes visit the Providenciales location. Lisa
Talbot offered presentations on the Cotton Industry to
the Year 8 students and 20th Century History to the Year
9 students. Provo Middle School also visited the museum
while on their field trip to Grand Turk. A presentation
regarding the Salt Industry was given followed by a tour
of the museum.
Provo Primary and Oseta Jolly Primary visited the
Providenciales location. Students from H.J. Robinson High
School toured the Grand Turk museum as part of their
project about TCI culture and history. a
Provo Middle School students attend a presentation at the museum’s
Providenciales location.
Location updates
Providenciales
• New flyers promoting the museum on Provo were distributed
throughout the island to taxi drivers, resorts, car
rental companies and other locations.
• The gift shop area was upgraded with new shelving and
Grand Turk
• The cruise ships are returning to Grand Turk starting
in December. We are awaiting additional details on how
this will impact the number of visitors to the museum. We
are hoping that this will return some normalcy to Grand
Turk for both the museum, other tour operators and businesses
that rely on the cruise ships.
• We will be adjusting our opening days and hours to
accommodate the return of the ships.
• Volunteers have also been key at this location, providing
support in the museum and gift shop.
• A spay and neuter clinic was held at the museum’s
science building for two days in October. Over 55 animals
were “snipped.” The museum is always willing to help out
other non-profits, especially for important projects that
benefit everyone in the community.
Current Days & Hours of Operation:
• Grand Turk—Check schedule online; days and times
vary based on cruise ships.
Located in historic Guinep House on Front Street, this
location includes exhibits regarding the Salt Industry,
Molasses Reef Wreck, the Lucayans, John Glenn Landing
and more.
• Providenciales—Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday;
10 AM to 2 PM
Located in The Village at Grace Bay, this location
includes a Historical Timeline that gives an overview of
the most important dates in the history of the Turks &
Caicos Islands. Our residents have descended from a vast
array of peoples, and an incredibly rich history.
Additional Exhibits—Slave ship Trouvadore, Molasses
Reef Wreck Artifacts, Sapodilla Hill Rock Carvings. Tour
the Heritage House, which is a historically correct recreation
of a typical 1800s Caicos dwelling, and the Heritage
Garden.
Days and times of operation are subject to change so
please check our website or Facebook page for updated
information. a
www.tcmuseum.org• info@tcmuseum.org
(649) 247-2160
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 75

about the Islands
Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps of the Turks & Caicos Islands, The
Bahamas and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout the Islands. Visit www.amnautical.com.
Where we are
The Turks & Caicos Islands lie some 575 miles southeast
of Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time —
with The Bahamas about 30 miles to the northwest and
the Dominican Republic some 100 miles to the southeast.
The country consists of two island groups separated
by the 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To the west are
the Caicos Islands: West Caicos, Providenciales, North
Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos and South Caicos. To
the east are the Turks Islands: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.
The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles of land
area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s
population is approximately 43,000.
Getting here
There are international airports on Grand Turk,
Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic airports
on all of the islands except East Caicos.
As of September 1, 2021, all visitors ages 16 and
above must be fully vaccinated and provide a negative
PCR or antigen COVID-19 test taken within three days
of travel. (Children under the age of 10 are not required
to be tested.) Additionally, travellers must have medical/
travel insurance that covers medevac, a completed health
screening questionnaire and certification that they have
read and agreed to the privacy policy document. These
requirements must be uploaded to the TCI Assured portal,
which is available at www.turksandcaicostourism.
com, in advance of their arrival.
76 www.timespub.tc

The TCI has expanded COVID-19 testing capacity in
response to testing requirements implemented for travellers
entering the United States and Canada. Many resorts
offer on-site testing, along with numerous local health
practitioners.
Language
English.
Time zone
Eastern Standard Time (EST)/Daylight Savings Time
observed.
Currency
The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks
& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.
dollars are widely accepted and other currency can be
changed at local banks. American Express, VISA and
MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.
Climate
The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The
hottest months are September and October, when the
temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,
the consistent easterly trade winds temper the heat and
keep life comfortable.
Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for
daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on
some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing
and a sunhat and use waterproof sunscreen when out
in the tropical sun.
Entry requirements
Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.
Customs formalities
Visitors may bring in duty free for their own use one carton
of cigarettes or cigars, one bottle of liquor or wine,
and some perfume. The importation of all firearms including
those charged with compressed air without prior
approval in writing from the Commissioner of Police is
strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled
drugs and pornography are also illegal.
Returning residents may bring in $400 worth of
merchandise per person duty free. A duty of 10% to
60% is charged on most imported goods along with a
7% customs processing fee and forms a major source of
government revenue.
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 77

etween popular visitor areas. Scooter, motorcycle and
bicycle rentals are also available.
Food for Thought provides free daily
breakfast to government school students.
A donation of $300 will provide breakfast
to one child for a whole school year.
To donate or learn more please
email info@foodforthoughttci.com
or visit foodforthoughttci.com
Transportation
Food for Thought Foundation Inc. (NP #102)
A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting
vehicles. A government tax of 12% is levied on all
rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on the
left-hand side of the road, with traffic flow controlled by
round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and
drive! Taxis and community cabs are abundant throughout
the Islands and many resorts offer shuttle service
Telecommunications
FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband
Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network,
including pre- and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts
and some stores and restaurants offer wireless Internet
connections. Digicel operates mobile networks, with
a full suite of LTE 4G service. FLOW is the local carrier
for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and
Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets
and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can
arrange international roaming.
Electricity
FortisTCI supplies electricity at a frequency of 60HZ,
and either single phase or three phase at one of three
standard voltages for residential or commercial service.
FortisTCI continues to invest in a robust and resilient grid
to ensure the highest level of reliability to customers. The
company is integrating renewable energy into its grid and
provides options for customers to participate in two solar
energy programs.
Departure tax
US $60. It is typically included in your airline ticket cost.
Courier service
Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with offices on
Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is
limited to incoming delivery.
78 www.timespub.tc

Postal service
The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales are
located downtown on Airport Road. In Grand Turk, the
Post Office and Philatelic Bureau are on Church Folly. The
Islands are known for their colorful stamp issues.
Media
Multi-channel satellite television is received from the U.S.
and Canada and transmitted via cable or over the air.
Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island
EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television offers 75 digitally
transmitted television stations, along with local news
and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number of
local radio stations, magazines and newspapers.
Medical services
There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are
large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.
Both hospitals offer a full range of services including:
24/7 emergency room, operating theaters, diagnostic
imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,
physiotherapy and dentistry.
In addition, several general practitioners operate in
the country, and there is a recompression chamber, along
with a number of private pharmacies.
Immigration
A resident’s permit is required to live in the Islands. A
work permit and business license are also required to
work and/or establish a business. These are generally
granted to those offering skills, experience and qualifications
not widely available on the Islands. Priority is given
to enterprises that will provide employment and training
for T&C Islanders.
Government/Legal system
TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed
Governor, HE Nigel John Dakin. He presides over an executive
council formed by the elected local government.
Hon. Charles Washington Misick is the country’s premier,
leading a majority Progressive National Party (PNP) House
of Assembly.
The legal system is based upon English Common
Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief
Magistrate,and Deputy Magistrates. Judges of the Court
of Appeal visit the Islands twice a year and there is a final
Right of Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.
Taxes
There are currently no direct taxes on either income
or capital for individuals or companies. There are no
exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs
duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,
restaurants, vehicle rentals, other services and gasoline,
as well as business license fees and departure taxes.
Economy
Historically, TCI’s economy relied on the export of salt.
Currently, tourism, the offshore finance industry and fishing
generate the most private sector income. The Islands’
main exports are lobster and conch. Practically all consumer
goods and foodstuffs are imported.
The Turks & Caicos Islands are recognised as an
important offshore financial centre, offering services
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 79

such as company formation, offshore insurance, banking,
trusts, limited partnerships and limited life companies.
The Financial Services Commission regulates the industry
and spearheads the development of offshore legislation.
People
Citizens of the Turks & Caicos Islands are termed
“Belongers” and are primarily descendants of African
slaves who were brought to the Islands to work in the
salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large
expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,
Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,
Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians and Filipinos.
Churches
Churches are the center of community life and there
are many faiths represented in the Islands including:
Adventist, Anglican, Assembly of God, Baha’i, Baptist,
Catholic, Church of God, Episcopal, Jehovah’s Witnesses,
Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.
Pets
Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary
health certificate, vaccination certificate and lab test
results to be submitted at the port of entry to obtain
clearance from the TCI Department of Agriculture, Animal
Health Services.
National symbols
The National Bird is the Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).
The National Plant is Island heather (Limonium
bahamense) found nowhere else in the world. The
National Tree is the Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.
bahamensis). The National Costume consists of white cotton
dresses tied at the waist for women and simple shirts
and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing
the various islands are displayed on the sleeves,
sashes and hat bands. The National Song is “This Land
of Ours” by the late Rev. E.C. Howell. Peas and Hominy
(Grits) with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.
Going green
TCI Waste Disposal Services currently offers recycling
services through weekly collection of recyclable aluminum,
glass and plastic. Single-use plastic bags have been
banned country-wide as of May 1, 2019. There is also a
ban on importation of plastic straws and some polystyrene
products, including cups and plates.
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Recreation
Sporting activities are centered around the water. Visitors
can choose from deep-sea, reef or bonefishing, sailing,
glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,
waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling, scuba
diving, snuba, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding,
mermaid encounters and beachcombing. Pristine reefs,
abundant marine life and excellent visibility make TCI
a world-class diving destination. Whale and dolphin
encounters are possible, especially during the winter/
spring months.
Tennis and golf—there is an 18 hole championship
course on Providenciales—are also popular. Many resorts
have private tennis courts.
The Islands are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can
enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in
33 national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries and areas
of historical interest. The National Trust provides trail
guides to several hiking trails, as well as guided tours of
major historical sites. Birdwatching is superb, and there
is a guided trail on Grand Turk.
There is an excellent national museum on Grand
Turk, with an auxillary branch on Providenciales that
includes the Caicos Heritage House. A scheduled ferry
and a selection of tour operators make it easy to take day
trips to the outer islands.
Other land-based activities include bicycling, horseback
riding and football (soccer). Personal trainers are
available to motivate you, working out of several fitness
centres. You will also find a variety of spa and body treatment
services.
Nightlife includes local bands playing island music
at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There are
two casinos on Providenciales, along with many electronic
gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!
Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,
sports and beachwear and locally made handicrafts,
including straw work, conch crafts and handmade beach
jewellery. Duty free outlets sell liquor, jewellery, watches,
perfume, leather goods, crystal, china, cameras, electronics,
brand-name clothing and accessories, along with
Cuban cigars. a
Times of the Islands Winter 2021/22 81

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WE ARE LEADING THE CHANGE
FOR A NEW ENERGY FUTURE
Our executive team: (L-r) Senior Vice President of Operations Devon Cox; Vice President of Corporate
Services and CFO Aisha Laporte; President and CEO Ruth Forbes; Vice President of Grand Turk and
Sister Island Operations Allan Robinson; Vice President of Innovation, Technology and Strategic Planning
Rachell Roullet and Vice President of Engineering and Energy Production and Delivery Don Forsyth
The energy landscape is changing.
And at FortisTCI, we are leading the transition to cleaner energy with
innovative solutions, and the highest level of service to customers.
With sustainability as a guiding principle, we are strategically investing
in new technologies, people and processes to deliver least-cost, reliable,
resilient and sustainable energy to keep the Turks and Caicos Islands
economy moving forward.
At FortisTCI, we are powered by a team of energy experts, who are proud
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