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TRAVEL Seeing the light in Dornoch The Scottish Highlands is renowned for its beauty, grandeur, heritage and history and nowhere is this more apparent than in Dornoch. Samantha Priestley heads to the Scottish seaside. Above: Dornoch beach with the tide coming in. Above right: 1st hole, Royal Dornoch Golf Club. 8 FINEANDCOUNTRY.COM
TRAVEL Tufted sand dunes, woodland walks, a soft golden stretch of beach, and the rolling royal golf course, all conspire to make Dornoch a pocket of peace and calm in our otherwise busy lives. This coastal town in the Highlands of Scotland, nestled by the sea in the county of Sutherland, is a four-hour drive from Edinburgh – if you’re travelling up here from anywhere else, a stopover is recommended to make it a little more leisurely. I stayed the night at The Dunstane Houses in Edinburgh, a Victorian villa that was once a private residence and still feels like a home, but is now a luxury boutique hotel. The hotel has just 17 rooms, and if you choose the Ronaldsay Suite, you’ll be treated to a ground-floor room with a freestanding in-room bath that basks in the original bay window. For dinner, head into town to Noto, where the stripped-back rustic menu and décor puts simple goodness at the heart of the dining experience. Then it’s onwards. The drive up to Dornoch is a dreamscape of sweeping land that expertly introduces you to what is to come. Bridge after bridge carry you safely over rivers and firths, until the sea opens out before you and you have arrived at beautiful Dornoch. The historic town has a small fairy-tale castle that was built around 1500 and was set on fire in 1570 amid a bitter feud between the McKays and the Murrays. It was soon restored and, following many years as a castle, it was bought by a private investor and became a hotel in 1947. Naturally, the town has a well-stocked whisky shop, the Carnegie Whisky Cellars, where in non-Covid-restriction times you can indulge in some whisky tasting. The staff here are knowledgeable and helpful and will advise you in choosing the right whisky for your tastes. As you walk from the town it’s a matter of mere minutes to the golf course and the beach. On the way, you’ll pass a pretty church and the hotel Links House, where I stayed. Links House is the old church manse house that was built in 1843. It was bought by Todd Warnock, an American visiting the area to play golf, in 2005, and the transformation from private manor house to hotel began. Now spread over three properties, following renovations and the building of a whole new wing beside the church, visitors have the choice of luxury accommodation in the shape of deluxe hotel rooms, luxury suites and bespoke apartments. At the top of the road is the Royal Dornoch Golf Club, and beyond that, the North Sea leaps to shore on the soft sandy beach. The golf club is a major draw for many visitors and it’s always full, but this is a peaceful corner of Scotland to stay in, no matter what you like to do with your time. If you fancy picking up a club for the first time, there’s a small putting green at Links House, or you can play croquet on the lawn. But if all you want to do is wander and wonder, this is the perfect place for it. ➤➤ Dornoch Links House. A Luxury Suite at Dornoch Links House. FINEANDCOUNTRY.COM 9
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