Times of the Islands Spring 2022

TIMES
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SPRING 2022 NO. 138
DISCOVERIES & MYSTERIES
TCI birding
CONCEPCIÓN SHIPWRECK
A tale of sunken treasure
KINGS OF BONEFISHING
South Caicos Jennings brothers
OF THE
ISLANDS

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contents
Departments
6 From the Editor
17 Getting to Know
A Long Journey to Paradise
Beryl Nelson
By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photo By Tom Rathgeb
24 Talking Taíno
Crawling Out of History
By Bill Keegan, Betsy Carlson
and Michael Pateman
77 About the Islands/TCI Map
81 Subscription Form
82 Classified Ads
Features
32 Discoveries and Mysteries
TCI Birding
By Simon Busuttil
46 Wreck of the Concepción
By Ben Stubenberg
Original Painting By Richard McGhie
52 The Power of Vitamin Sea
Story and Photos By Kelly Currington
Green Pages
57 Helping the Humpback
By Katharine Hart & Cathy Bacon
Photos By Katharine Hart, Deep Blue Charters
62 Building an Ark
By Alizee Zimmermann, TCRF
65 Flamingo Flamboyance
By Skylar Wuelfing, SFS
TIMES
OF THE
ISLANDS
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SPRING 2022 NO. 138
On the Cover
Marta Morton spent an hour filming a “flamboyance” of
flamingos last September at aptly-named Flamingo Lake
in Providenciales. The speckled water added a naturally
artistic touch to the image. You can read more about flamingos
on page 65. For more of Marta’s beautiful images
of the TCI, visit www.harbourclubvillas.com.
Astrolabe
68 Raking Up the Past
Story & Photos By Jeff Dodge
73 Kings of Bonefishing
By Dr. Carlton Mills
32
MARTA MORTON–WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM
4 www.timespub.tc

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from the editor
MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM
A walk along Grace Bay Beach as the sun sets is a providential opportunity to contemplate the “invisible footprints” in your life.
Invisible Footprints
As I find myself in a very difficult and sad season of life, I try to make sense of struggle and suffering in light of my
faith. No doubt in this tumultuous world there is no lack of hardship, sickness, grief, unthinkable acts of aggression
and hurt against each other, such as what is happening in the Ukraine as I write this. I’ve long believed that our
God does not wave a wand and remove difficulties, but walks with us through them. Only He can supply the perfect
comfort, grace, and mercy we need—His invisible footprint as He “carries” us through trouble.
I realize “invisible footprints” are present all around us. In family and friends who lend an unselfish helping hand
and persevere when it isn’t easy or fun. In organizations—like the TCI Reef Fund, Whale Project, and Iguana Islands
Partnership—whose unheralded, behind-the-scenes work is making important strides in protecting the natural treasures
that make this country so special. In historians who take time to document the Islands’ unique past; the artists
who paint or photograph its cultural wonders. Examples abound in this issue.
The work of our steadfast contributors—and their forbearance with me—along with the support of our loyal
advertisers, are the footprints that walk beside us and carry us through each issue. For that I am so grateful.
6 www.timespub.tc
Kathy Borsuk, Editor
timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 431-4788

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TIMES
OF THE
ISLANDS
MANAGING EDITOR
Kathy Borsuk
ADVERTISING MANAGER
Claire Parrish
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Cathy Bacon, Kathy Borsuk, Simon Busuttil,
Dr. Betsy Carlson, Kelly Currington, Katharine Hart,
Dr. Bill Keegan, Dr. Carlton Mills, Dr. Michael P. Pateman,
Jody Rathgeb, Ben Stubenberg, Lisa Turnbow-Talbot,
Sklylar Wuelfing, Alizee Zimmermann.
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Nichoy Bent, Jonathan Blair, Simon Busuttil,
Kelly Currington, Florida Museum, Katharine Hart, Aravna
Lucsama, Marta Morton, Caitlin E. O’Brien,
Piping Plover Survey Team, Tom Rathgeb,
James Roy–Paradise Photography, Marjorie Sadler,
Shutterstock, Turks & Caicos Reef Fund.
.
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16 www.timespub.tc

getting to know
After years of “hippie life,” living on the edges of society, Beryl Nelson is a law-abiding citizen of a country where he truly wants to live—the
Turks & Caicos Islands.
A Long Journey (by Boat)
to Paradise
Beryl Nelson
By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photos by Tom Rathgeb and Courtesy of Beryl Nelson
Q: How did you come to live in the Turks & Caicos Islands, Beryl?
A: Well, it’s a long story . . .
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 17

Actually, the story
itself is simple: Beryl
Nelson, who grew up in
Michigan and Indiana,
decided when he came
of age that he did not
want to live in the turbulent
and violent American
culture of the late 1960s
and resettled himself on
Providenciales. Simple,
right? Ah, but the details
of his journey between
1969 and 1985 make for
a more complicated tale,
involving anti-war protests,
trips abroad, work
in The Bahamas and many
boats.
The boats are the
standouts when Beryl,
now 77 years old, retired
and living in Long Bay,
talks about his life. He
A young Beryl Nelson navigates at the helm of the schooner America.
punctuates his stories
with details of the sailboats he has captained, refurbished
and lived aboard, describing them with the spark in his
eye that marks a true sailor. The boats and the trips are
jumbled in with Beryl’s Quaker roots, political activism
and the desire for a peaceful life. “Classic hippie stuff,”
he comments.
various places. In Philadelphia, visiting his sister Marjorie,
he saw a film on the Phoenix activities and became a volunteer
for A Quaker Action Group. He spent 1968 on the
Phoenix, and on his return continued anti-war activities.
“That was when I decided I didn’t want to live in the U.S.,”
he says. “I figured my only option was to build a sailboat
and sail away.”
Phoenix
While even his earlier days involved working around boats
and on the water, perhaps the start of his 17-year journey
to Provo was aboard the Phoenix of Hiroshima in 1968.
The 50-foot, 30-ton yacht was designed and owned by
anthropologist Dr. Earle Reynolds, who in the late 1950s
became interested in protests against nuclear weapons
For several years Beryl shuttled between Michigan,
where he was building a boat (never completed) on his
father’s property, and Florida, where he was working
at a shipyard and “learning more about boats.” He also
became involved in salvage operations and delivering
boats to The Bahamas. Those first tastes of The Bahamas
made him start thinking about emigrating, which lent
tests. Inspired by Quaker activists, Reynolds put his more reality to his “sail away” fantasies.
yacht to use in those protests and other anti-war activities.
In 1967–68, the Phoenix delivered medical supplies
to civilians in both North and South Vietnam. (Reynolds
Sheila A
Then he fell in love . . . with a boat. During a delivery trip
recounted those stories in his book, The Forbidden stop in Georgetown, Great Exuma, he saw the Sheila A,
Voyage.)
Enter Beryl Nelson, who had been knocking about
among jobs at a Fort Lauderdale shipyard and with the
“and I thought she was very pretty.” The 22-foot wooden
sailboat with canvas sails was a Bahamian “B Class” racing
sloop. Beryl borrowed money to buy her and lived on the
Michigan State Waterways Commission; following an beach while he emptied and cleaned the boat. “I ended up
interest in underwater archaeology; and visiting friends in at the Out Island Inn. They let me tie up to their dock, and
18 www.timespub.tc

This is Beryl’s houseboat, Ashram, in Great Exuma. When he moved to the Turks & Caicos, he tied up Ashram at his property and lived aboard
until he built a house.
I would fish for them. I could use their toilets, and then I
made a little extra by saving the backbones and heads of
the fish and trading with the locals. Of course, this was
all highly illegal.”
When the authorities began sniffing around, Beryl
moved on to Nassau in Sheila A. “I got into a white
Bahamian crowd and did carpentry work for them and
other odd jobs.” There he learned about the Yoga Retreat
on Paradise Island, where he became first a volunteer,
then a staffer. He also spent time on Rudder Cut Cay,
where he sighted a disabled 40-foot houseboat in a pond.
With some help from Swami Vishnu and a loan from his
father, Beryl bought it and named it Ashram.
Ashram
Eventually, Ashram would take him to Provo. But he got
sidetracked when he was asked to take another sailboat,
Jubilee III, to Newport, Rhode Island for the 1977
America’s Cup race. From there he landed a job as first
mate on the replica of the schooner America. A bit later,
during a trip on the schooner to The Bahamas via Norfolk,
Virginia, Beryl received his 100-ton Coast Guard license
and became its captain.
Beryl had offers for other jobs at this time, but “I
wasn’t looking for a career in running yachts,” he says.
Instead, he found work in the Exuma Cays, first as the
assistant manager of Lee Stocking Island, then as the first
park warden for the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park.
During his three years as park warden, Beryl became
more aware of the Turks & Caicos Islands and began
thinking about settling there. He had met Chuck Hesse,
founder of Provo’s Conch Farm, at a Gulf Caribbean
Fisheries Institute Conference in Nassau and became
interested in the conch mariculture process, then began
looking at land on Providenciales. “My sister Marge had
talked to me about buying land in The Bahamas,” he
recalls, but he wasn’t impressed by the way The Bahamas
handled land registry. The Turks & Caicos, however,
did impress him. While still working in the Exumas, he
bought land on Long Bay. After his park stint, he moved
to TCI in 1985, towing his 40-foot houseboat. He tied up
by his property and lived aboard while building his house
himself and establishing a business and residency.
Provo
The business, Local Knowledge Computer Services,
became his entry into the developing island, where Beryl
made computer repairs and computerized the billing
systems for various island mainstay businesses, such as
Barclays Bank and American Airlines. “I watched Provo
develop,” he recalls. “I saw Club Med being built, and all
four terminal buildings at the airport.”

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After years of “hippie life,” living on the edges of
society (sometimes illegally), Beryl Nelson became a
law-abiding citizen of a country where he truly wanted to
live. “I intentionally emigrated out of the United States.
knowing that I could NOT accept living in that culture,”
he notes. “This meant that it was necessary for me to
find a life where the culture and people I was surrounded
with did not violate my inner beliefs. How blessed and
thankful I feel for living in the Turks & Caicos Islands. I
look back and think through the experiences I’ve had and
realize many of them grew out of, and refined, my desires
and attitudes which I feel are being fulfilled here.” a
Celebrating a milestone
2022 marks 30 years that I have been writing for
Times of the Islands as a freelancer. It’s been my longest
gig, and my favorite.
Back in 1992, when I pitched my first article to the
magazine, the process was different. Folks weren’t
using email yet, so I either faxed or FedEx’d my hard
copy (don’t recall which), and for photos we devised
a system in which Tom would leave a roll of film at
Gilley’s as we left the Provo airport for the editor to
pick up. It got easier as we all became connected and
digitized, although I still prefer doing my interviews
in person rather than online.
I’ve done a lot of “this and that” for TOTI, contributing
profiles, features and items for such regular
bits as “Resort Report,” “I Was Wondering . . .?” and
“Faces and Places.” For several years, I did a column
called “A Day in the Life,” in which I followed an
Islander around as he/she did their day’s work: keeping
shop, running cargo between Provo and Middle,
conching, teaching, installing and repairing AC, etc.
Those pieces were among my favorites because,
like the profiles I choose to do, they focused on
ordinary people simply trying to do their best. They
weren’t stars or superheroes, but I felt their contributions
to the fabric of the Islands were (and are)
greater than those of any top politician or big-time
developer. I made a point of hopping around among
the Islands for these pieces, reminding readers that
the Turks & Caicos Islands are more than Provo.
I ended “A Day in the Life” when I stopped living
in TCI full-time, but I’ve continued writing for TOTI
and will do so as long as they’ll have me. I hope to
go on celebrating these Islands beyond this 30-year
milestone. a
~ Jody Rathgeb
20 www.timespub.tc

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talking taíno
Opposite page: This view over the ocean from the west side of North Creek in Grand Turk was likely enjoyed 1,300 years ago by its first
human inhabitants.
Above: The discovery of a previously unknown species of tortoise at Coralie (GT-3), the oldest known archaeological site in the Turks & Caicos
and The Bahamas, reflected the gigantism sometimes exhibited by species on islands.
SHUTTERSTOCK
Crawling Out of History
The Grand Turk Tortoise Chelonoidis alburyorum keegani
By Bill Keegan, Betsy Carlson and Michael Pateman
Just as the hare is zipping across the finish line, the tortoise has stopped once again
by the roadside, this time to stick out his neck and nibble a bit of sweet grass,
unlike the previous time when he was distractedby a bee humming in the heart of a wildflower
“My Hero” By Billy Collins
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 25

Coralie (GT-3), on the west side of North Creek in
Grand Turk, is a remarkable place. It was first inhabited
about 1,300 years ago, and is the oldest known archaeological
site in the Turks & Caicos Islands and all of The
Bahamas. It provides us with a view of the islands when
humans first arrived, before the animal resources of the
archipelago had ever been exploited. Coralie was an outpost
for short-term visitors from Hispaniola who came to
the island to harvest its abundant resources. This tells us
that Grand Turk was already a popular tourist destination
1,300 years ago!
Animal bones were exceptionally well preserved in
the site’s dry, sandy soil. The most prominent was the
sea turtle, whose upper shell (carapace) was used as a
cooking pot. Nowhere else in the Caribbean have the
bones of sea turtles been found in such abundance. In
addition, the bones of some iguanas are almost twice
the scientifically recognized size for this species. This
is an example of the gigantism sometimes exhibited
by species on islands. (Island gigantism is a biological
phenomenon in which the size of an animal species isolated
on an island increases dramatically in comparison
to its mainland relatives.) Birds, such as the red-footed
booby, no longer live on Grand Turk; and the inordinately
large-size fishes show the benefits from being the first to
inhabit a pristine island setting. While amazing in their
own right, the discovery of a previously unknown species
of tortoise topped all.
The partial remains of eleven tortoise individuals were
found throughout the GT-3 deposits. Several of their bones
from the earliest occupation are burned, which shows that
they were butchered and eaten soon after people arrived.
What is surprising is that after these first meals, tortoises
were mostly left unmolested for almost 400 years. But
during the final visit of people from Hispaniola, sometime
around AD 1100, all of the remaining tortoises on Grand
Turk were rounded up and butchered. This renewed interest
in the tortoise as food may have resulted from the
overharvesting of sea turtles. If sea turtles were no longer
as abundant—and we do see a dramatic decline in their
size over time—then tortoise may have been the next best
option. Or, they may have been ignored because the taste
of tortoise meat was not to their liking. After all, everyone
has different food preferences. In the book The Yearling,
for example, immigrants to Florida from the island of
Minorca are disparaged for eating gopher tortoise. Local
Floridians would have nothing to do with them. However,
the Minorcans probably had a good reason. The Catholic
SHUTTERSTOCK
This is the upper shell (carapace) of a giant tortoise ; tortoises were once widely distributed throughout the Caribbean.
26 www.timespub.tc

THEODORE MORRIS
Above: This Theodore Morris painting “Turtle Spirit” represents the importance of turtles in
Taíno culture.
Right: These are the bones of the Sawmill sink tortoise uncovered in Abaco, The Bahamas.
church does not classify tortoise as “meat,” so tortoise can be eaten on days
when abstinence from meat is expected.
Lacking information about tortoises in these islands, we sought help
from our colleagues at the Florida Museum who specialize in herpetology.
They too were amazed, and knew of only one reported tortoise bone from
the Banana Hole paleontology site on New Providence Island (Nassau). We
anxiously waited for their findings, but the ensuing biological research proceeded
at tortoise-like speed. An answer began to emerge with the 2004
discovery of a variety of fossil animals and plants preserved in the anaerobic
sediments at the bottom of Sawmill sink blue hole on Great Abaco Island
(northern Bahamas). (A blue hole is a subsurface void in carbonate bedrock
that is open to the Earth’s surface and extends below water.) The nearly
complete fossil tortoise skeletons renewed interest in the study of Bahamian
tortoises, and eventually resulted in the first extraction of ancient DNA from
a tropical species. Once again, the tortoise came in first!
Ancient DNA revealed that Bahamian tortoises belong to a group of
Neotropical tortoises that includes species living today in South America
and the Galápagos Islands. They diverged from these relatives about 2–3
million years ago. Tortoises were once widely distributed throughout the
FLORIDA MUSEUM
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 27

Caribbean, and an extinct species of giant tortoise was
recently described in the Dominican Republic. They are
today found only in Cuba, Hispaniola, and a few of the
southern Lesser Antilles outside of Central and South
America. The fossil species are related to the red-footed
tortoise which is today a popular pet.
In addition to Grand Turk, recent paleontological
research has identified tortoise bones in cave deposits on
virtually every island in the Bahamian archipelago, including
Indian Cave on Middle Caicos. They shared the islands
with the Indigenous Lucayans, although GT-3 is the only
site at which tortoises have been found in direct association
with humans. Current evidence indicates they were
driven to extinction about 700–800 years ago, which may
be why there is no recorded Taíno name for tortoise (only
freshwater turtles, called jicotea). Recognizing that tortoises
are important members of tropical ecosystems, the
Turtle Conservancy has expressed interest in rewilding
tortoises in The Bahamas and TCI. But this project is also
moving at a tortoise’s pace.
So, how did tortoises get to the TCI and The
Bahamas? Their story begins at a time of much lower sea
levels. Somehow, they managed to reach the Bahamas
from Cuba or Hispaniola and spread out across the much
larger landmasses. As sea level rose, the large land areas
were transformed into smaller island banks. Isolated on
islands separated by deep-water passages, the tortoises
developed observable differences. As a result, the tortoises
from every island looked different, reflecting their
adaptation to unique local conditions.
The Sawmill sink tortoise is the “parent” species
because it was the first to be described scientifically
(Chelonoidis alburyorum). There currently are two named
subspecies, one for Middle Caicos (C. a. sementis) and
ours on Grand Turk (C. a. keegani). Although others are
yet to be officially named, there was perhaps a total of
seven subspecies, each restricted to its own small bank
(e.g., Caicos Bank, Acklins Bank, Great Bahama Bank).
Although there was little genetic divergence in these
islands, the differences are sufficient to identify two distinct
“clades” (a clade is a group of organisms believed to
have evolved from a common ancestor). The occurrence
of both clades on the same island has been interpreted
by biologists as evidence for two separate colonization
events. In other words, these clades evolved on different
islands and much later came to inhabit the same island.
This looks very much like people were involved. It suggests
that the Lucayans moved tortoises between islands,
perhaps as a managed food source.
This image of the interior of the plastron of the Grand Turk tortoise
shows the “Madonna face” (at top) created by muscle insertions.
The Grand Turk tortoise was of moderate size, measuring
about 18 inches in length and about 50 pounds
in weight. They were only a third the size of the largest,
modern Galápagos tortoises (another example of island
gigantism). Although it is common to speak of a turtle’s
“shell,” this often means only the thin keratinous (like
fingernails) layer used to make “tortoiseshell” jewelry.
More appropriately, the bone structure is described as
a thin-walled, high dome carapace (top). A “high dome”
(versus a “saddleback”) restricts the extension of the
neck, which means that these tortoises had to feed close
to the ground. The plastron (bottom) is flat. When we first
saw the muscle markings on the interior of the plastron,
they gave the impression of a woman’s face with her head
covered by a veil. However, Keegan’s plans to market a
“Virgin Mary sighting” never materialized.
The Sawmill sink tortoises were exceptionally
well-preserved. A total of 226 seeds were found inside
two of the complete shells—their last meals. These seeds
came from wild mastic and satin leaf trees, which produce
plum-like fruits that scatter on the ground in spring
through summer. For these seeds to have survived, the
animals must have died soon after eating. A stable isotope
analysis of the bones was conducted to obtain a
more general picture of diet. It showed that tropical
grasses, cactus pads and fruits (e.g., prickly pear [tuna]
FLORIDA MUSEUM
28 www.timespub.tc

ALEJANDRA BAIZ
This charcoal drawing, “One of Atabey’s Faces,” is artist Alejandra Baiz’s personal interpretation of a Taíno petroglyph found in the Caguana
Taíno Ceremonial Park in Utuado, Puerto Rico. The turtle illustrated in this drawing is a jicotea.
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 29

FLORIDA MUSEUM
This image shows the internal (A) and external (B) Paratype plastron in situ at the Coralie archaeological site, Grand Turk.
and Turks Head cactus), and carrion (e.g., marine fishes
that washed ashore or were discarded by Osprey) were
likely consumed. Modern tortoises have similar dietary
preferences, and also consume a variety of snails, ants,
termites, beetles, and carrion.
Modern tortoises can live to be more than 100 years
old. They are most active in the late afternoon and early
morning. They often rest for 50% of the day, and are
reported to remain still for five to ten days after a large
meal. Resting, of course, is a relative term. Their typical
pace is a leisurely 5–20 meters per hour, although they
can reach a top speed of 100 meters per hour (only 1/2
mile/hour). They can mate at any time of the year, but
often show a seasonal preference. Females dig a hole
and lay an average of ten golf-ball-size eggs that hatch in
about four months. Their small clutch size makes them
30 www.timespub.tc

vulnerable to overhunting. Tortoises are today considered
a delicacy in South America, and their populations
are declining accordingly.
Prior to the arrival of humans, crocodiles were the
main predator of adult tortoise. Crocodiles were once
common on many Caribbean and Bahamian islands,
although they have yet to be identified in the Turks &
Caicos. Crocodile bite marks are clearly visible on many
of the Sawmill sink shells, and bite marks on the interior
of shells indicate that crocodiles scavenged the discarded
carcasses of tortoises (and sea turtles) after they were
butchered by humans.
Christopher Columbus captured a crocodile in a saltwater
pond at the northwest point of Crooked Island (The
Bahamas). Having never seen one, he called it lagarto de
la agua (water lizard). Caimán was later reported as the
Taíno name for crocodile. Historians have used GT-3 as
FLORIDA MUSEUM
Crocodile bite marks are visible on many of the Sawmill sink shells.
proof that people were living on Grand Turk at the time
of Columbus’ first voyage, and therefore Grand Turk is
Columbus’ first landfall in the Americas. However, our
research showed that no people (or tortoises) had been
living on Grand Turk for at least 300 years before he set
sail. Had Columbus arrived at an earlier time, he might
have named the island for the ubiquitous tortoise, using
the Spanish name—Galápagos. Just imagine, you could be
visiting the Galápagos & Caicos Islands!
For more on TCI tortoises see https://www.
floridamuseum.ufl.edu/wp-content/uploads/
sites/35/2020/08/Vol58No1smallarchival.pdf. a
john redmond associates ltd.
architects & designers
construction consultants
project management
Dr. Bill Keegan is Curator of Caribbean Archaeology at the
Florida Museum of Natural History (University of Florida);
Dr. Betsy Carlson is Senior Archaeologist at Southeastern
Archaeological Research (SEARCH, Inc.) in Jonesville, FL;
and Dr. Michael Pateman is former Director of the Turks
& Caicos National Museum and currently Curator/Lab
Director of the AEX Maritime Museum on Grand Bahama.
p.o.box 21, providenciales, turks & caicos is.
tel.: 9464440 cell: 2314569 email: redmond@tciway.tc
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 31

SIMON BUSUTTIL

feature
Opposite page: This is one of 77 Piping Plovers found on the inter-tidal flats at Sand Bore Cay in the Turks & Caicos Islands in January, 2022.
Above: These Short-billed Dowitchers are congregating on the Middle Caicos Banks in January, 2022. They are part of the flock that comprises
3% of the world’s population.
PIPING PLOVER SURVEY TEAM JANUARY 2022
Discoveries and Mysteries
TCI birding: Questions answered; questions raised.
By Simon Busuttil
“These islands are many in number . . . being low, sandy and barren . . .
and the beach is covered with sea-fowl.”
(Extract from the Annual Register 1764 quoted in H.E. Sadler’s book Turks Island Landfall.)
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 33

There are around 11,000 species of birds in the
world. “Around” because the number changes all the time.
Totally new species are fairly frequently discovered, and
a thankfully few (as yet) others are deemed extinct, but
most of the changes occur through “splitting” existing
species. These “splits” come about either when increased
observation or research, or new scientific techniques such
as DNA analysis, identify that races or sub-species of an
existing single species are deemed sufficiently different
to be considered different species despite superficially
appearing the same. One, the widespread Rufous Antpitta
Grallaria rufula of the Peruvian Andes has just been
split—after years of taxonomic debate and research—into
16 different species!
An endemic species is one found only in one place.
Almost anyone with an appreciation of the natural world
knows that islands are hotbeds of endemism. That is,
because of their geographic isolation, most islands are
home to species found nowhere else in the world.
Being an island-based species does come with downsides,
particularly being more vulnerable to factors such
as hurricanes or volcanic eruptions, habitat loss, or the
introduction of predators or other damaging non-native
species. Only about 10% of the world’s bird species are
found on islands but 47% of the world’s threatened bird
species are. Many island species have small populations
given the limited land area that they cover and islands are
particularly vulnerable to anthropogenic changes.
Biogeographically, Turks & Caicos are two of the
banks that make up the Lucayan Archipelago. Nature
does not generally conform to national boundaries, so
a systematic list of bird species of TCI is very much an
artificial affair. That in itself does not mean that the list
has no value. Politics and thus nature conservation policy
are man-made affairs, and a national bird list and the
associated status of each species can and should be an
important tool in helping national governments carry out
their moral—and in some instances internationally legal—
duty to help conserve the world’s bird species.
A systematic list with the status of each species can
also be a useful tool in encouraging birdwatchers to visit
a country. The worldwide bird tourism market is huge.
In the USA alone it was valued at $32 billion in 2012,
according to the United Nations. Central to visiting a
country to watch birds is having an idea of what species
are there and what the chances are of seeing a certain
species. This is one value of the systematic list.
SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
From a bird-watching point of view, TCI is both under-watched and under-recorded. This gives visitors the chance to get away from the
bird-watching crowds and make their own discoveries.
34 www.timespub.tc

Over 700 of the earth’s bird species are found in the
Caribbean. Of these, 171 are endemic—found only in
the area. The larger islands of Hispaniola, Jamaica, and
Cuba each support over 30 endemic bird species and the
Lucayan Archipelago just 8 endemic bird species. TCI
has no endemic species of bird, but one of the Lucayan
endemics, the Bahama Woodstar (our “hummingbird”) is
a familiar resident species. TCI is thus never going to
“compete” as a birdwatching destination with the likes of
many other Caribbean countries which draw birdwatchers
from around the world.
That said, over 200 bird species have been recorded
in the Turks & Caicos Islands. There is a good range of
species, some accessible sites, and many species can be
approached quite closely as there is no tradition of hunting.
With few birdwatchers and sparse historic records
there are opportunities to get away from the crowds—
which can be difficult in some hot spots in popular
regions—and make your own discoveries.
From a birdwatching point of view, TCI is both
under-watched and under-recorded. There are few resident
or visiting birdwatchers and birders. Additionally,
there is no bird club or strong network of recording
and sharing sightings. The online citizen science portal
eBird (www.eBird.org) has helped, as anyone can log
their sightings which are then reviewed by a network of
regional experts. The sightings can then be viewed by
anyone.
To be able to look after our birds, to conserve them,
we need to know what species occur here, how many of
each and where they are. This is where birdwatchers can
contribute their sightings and records as data to support
the science of conservation. Once these questions
are answered, then conservation planning—protecting
the important areas—can be implemented as part of
the National Development Plan and the moral and legal
imperatives to protect the world’s wonderful bird species
can be met.
So then, what is TCI important for? What do we know
and what more do we need to find out? Given the country’s
ongoing rapid development and the needs of the
humans living here, on what and where should we spend
our political, social, and financial capital protecting?
The Piping Plover Charadrius melodus is a federally
protected species in both USA and Canada. It is also an
incredibly cute little ball of fluff that spends its summers
and winters on beaches around 1,000 miles apart.
Like other beach-living species, it suffers from increased
development and human recreational use of beaches
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 35

throughout its range. Having implemented significant
protective programs in its breeding range in small areas
on the Great Plains, around the Great Lakes and on the
Atlantic coast, authorities in North America realised that
as numbers were not increasing, the problem lay elsewhere.
The plover was known to spend its winters on the
southeast and Gulf coasts of the USA, but regular counts
of birds in these largely accessible and well-watched
areas could not account for the whole known population.
A significant number were missing. Upon instigating an
international Piping Plover census, several hundred were
“discovered” wintering, widely dispersed in The Bahamas
in 2006 and 2011, and in January 2016 a team from
North America successfully searched likely habitat for
this species in TCI, finding 96 birds.
Since then, teams have visited TCI almost every
January to look for Piping Plovers. We now know that
around 200 spend the winter with us at several key sites.
The area between South Caicos and East Caicos is particularly
important, with almost half of our birds on the
inter-tidal flats around Sand Bore, Plandon and McCartney
Cays. A further 30 stay on Little Ambergris Cay.
The sixth and final year of the TCI Piping Plover sur-
Above: This is “officially” Piping Plover EY1, found in the TCI on
Plandon Cay Beach in January, 2022. This bird was ringed on Fire
Island Beach, Long Beach, New York State in May, 2021!
Below: Another “dull” day at work, surveying waders on the Middle
Caicos flats.
ARAVNA LUCSAMA
SIMON BUSUTTIL
36 www.timespub.tc

This typical Australian Pine woodland in TCI demonstrates how no native plants grow under the alien trees.
SIMON BUSUTTIL
vey was undertaken by a local team of six birdwatchers
in February 2022. We now have a very good idea of how
many of this Globally Threatened species are here in TCI
and which areas are important for them.
All surveys have also searched for birds “banded” with
individually identifiable coloured plastic rings or flags on
their legs at their breeding sites. With a good telescope or
camera these are legible in the field, allowing individual
birds to be sighted and reported. From this we know that
the birds spending the winter in TCI come from eastern
Canada and northeastern USA, a flight of around 1,200
miles each way with stops at coastal sites in Virginia and
North Carolina en route.
This long migration is why disturbance on their wintering
grounds is such an important issue for Piping
Plovers. They need to be in peak physical condition to
make the flight home to their nesting areas and breed.
Disturbance has been shown conclusively to reduce this
physical fitness. Birds feed less and are more stressed
and this has a direct impact on their subsequent survival
and breeding success.
We need to consider taking this species’ needs into
account in certain key areas such as the south side of Half
Moon Bay. This is also a bird of open spaces and many
of its favoured haunts such as the sandy spits on Dellis,
Fort George, and Dickish Cays are being squeezed by
the remorseless increase of the invasive Australian pine
or Casuarina. This tree favours the disturbed or newly
created habitat at the backs of beaches, and it casts a
physical shadow which many species appear to avoid.
Removing it as the Turks & Caicos National Trust is now
doing at Half Moon Bay will make more of the beach available
to birds like Piping Plovers.
There is another small plover that is rapidly declining
across its world range (North America and Mexico) and
about which there is growing concern. The Snowy Plover
Charadrius nivosus is superficially similar to the Snowy
Plover and nests on beaches and saline flats. There are
twice as many in the world as Piping Plovers, but unlike
the Piping Plover population—which has been the subject
of intense co-ordinated conservation management and
is now stable and maybe increasing—Snowy Plovers are
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 37

thought to be declining and are not (yet) the subject of
international co-ordinated effort.
Records in TCI suggest that it was just recently more
widespread and common here. Small numbers are most
regularly seen in winter on the salinas on Grand Turk
and more frequently, South Caicos. However, the species
was thought to breed here a few of decades ago—even
on Providenciales. I have not seen one yet despite having
spent hundreds of hours in the field, often in likely habitats
such as saline lagoons at North West Point Preserve.
We just don’t know what is happening and need to find
out if we are to contribute at all to the effective action
that needs to take place to conserve this charming and
vulnerable little bird.
In January 2017, the Piping Plover survey team visited
the areas of sand flats exposed at low tide around Black
Rock on the Caicos Banks a few miles south of Middle
Caicos. There we found the single most important area
in TCI for migrant waders from North America. Around
3,500 birds were using this concentrated area. Among
them we found another wading bird of global conservation
concern. Breeding in the high Arctic, some Red
Knots fly 18,000 miles annually on their migrations. We
found 400 roosting at high tide on the Middle Caicos
Banks, though we still do not know where they all go to
feed. Previously, only a few had ever been recorded in
TCI and this is by far the largest population found in the
Caribbean—a real surprise. Surveyors have returned to
this site several times and we have consistently recorded
large numbers of birds here. There were almost 5,000
wading birds in this small area in January 2020, including
3% of the entire world population of Short-billed
Dowitchers. This is a migratory wader from the sub-Arctic
that can often be seen close-up in much smaller numbers
at places like Wheeland Pond on Providenciales or many
of the salinas.
A bird on which there is less focus these days (compared
to 20 years ago) is the West Indian Whistling
Duck Dendrocygna arborea. As its name suggests, it is
a Caribbean endemic and unlike the wading birds discussed
above, does not migrate. Hunted for food and
sport and suffering from the destruction of its habitats
and from predation by introduced predators like cats, this
crepuscular and nocturnal species underwent years of
SIMON BUSUTTIL
Members of the survey team count migratory waders on the Middle Caicos Banks in January, 2022.
38 www.timespub.tc

Red Knots breed in the high Arctic. This is one of 400 roosting at high tide on the Middle Caicos Banks, the largest population in the Caribbean.
It is in the dull winter plumage that we see on their wintering grounds in TCI. They are named for their summer breeding plumage which is
brilliant brick red.
NICHOY BENT
decline. It is now recovering largely due to public awareness
and education campaigns across the region.
At the height of concern for this species in 1999,
surveys were carried out across likely areas of habitat
in TCI but no large, previously undiscovered population
were found here and the species’ status remained as it
was; a scarce breeding resident possibly moving between
smaller cays and the larger islands in search of food and
water. With recovery taking place across many parts of its
range, there is less concern for this species here now. It
will probably continue to exist largely secretively in small
numbers, particularly in the east of the archipelago.
That said, we should still look after this enigmatic
species. New threats can arise quickly. Destruction or
inappropriate development of a key wetland on somewhere
like East Caicos could be the loss of a key link in
the chain of sites that this species needs. This would be
a shame. This species may be a more important part of
TCI’s natural and cultural heritage than currently thought.
There is an interesting reference to it being domesticated
on Salt Cay in the 1930s quoted in the Birds of the
Southern Bahamas by D.W. Buden. I have not yet found
any other reference to this species being domesticated
anywhere else.
An observation made by many birdwatchers from temperate
climes when they visit the Caribbean is just how
few seabirds there are given the vast areas of food-filled
seas and numerous islands for nesting. The explanation
for this unexpected scenario has been given in terms of
trophic levels; tropical seas are like tropical forests, very
complex, giving rise to a great variety of species none of
which was present in vast numbers. Think of a coral reef.
The temperate and polar seas, on the other hand, gave
rise to far fewer species, but in productive areas many
fish and seabird species occur in vast numbers. Think of
the vast shoals of herring or a penguin colony.
We now understand from both written records and
archaeological remains that human colonisation of the
Caribbean brought about two factors which have, almost
unbelievably, led to a loss of between 90 and 99% of the
seabirds that once bred here. Harvesting of seabirds and
their eggs on their breeding islands has almost certainly
been a part of every colonisation event, temporary or permanent,
over the thousands of years of human history.
Today it is often functionally replaced by high levels of
disturbance. Seabirds are long-lived species that reproduce
slowly—many just lay a couple of eggs per year.
Pressure on these populations, for instance when eggs
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 39

40 www.timespub.tc
The West Indian Whistling Duck is an important part of TCI’s natural and cultural heritage.

Times of the Islands Spring 2022 41
SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

SIMON BUSUTTIL
Shown here are three of TCI’s breeding seabirds at the National Trust’s Wheeland Pond on Providenciales, one of the best sites in TCI to watch
and photograph birds. From left to right are: a Royal Tern, Laughing Gull, and Cabot’s (formerly Sandwich) Tern.
don’t hatch because they are taken or are abandoned,
inevitably leads to declines.
With European colonisation came the additional pressure
of the introduction of non-native predatory species
such as cats and rats to most islands, and on some,
mongooses were introduced to control the previously
introduced rats. The impact of introduced predators on
species which previously had no experience with them is
described in a seminal paper from our own Pine Cay. John
Iverson studied Turks & Caicos Rock Iguanas Cyclura carinata
there before, during, and after the construction of
the Meridian Hotel in 1973/74. His 1978 paper describes
the numbers of iguanas falling from over 15,000 to fewer
than 30 as a result of predation by cats and dogs introduced
to the island by construction workers. Elsewhere,
other non-predatory species such as goats significantly
change the vegetation on islands which had never had a
significant population of grazing animals and the plant
communities of which changed through grazing.
With over 250, mainly uninhabited, cays it is no surprise
that 15 of the 23 Caribbean species of seabirds
breed in TCI. Counts of breeding seabirds in TCI from
some 15 years ago suggest that there are about 60,000
pairs of seabirds breeding here, mainly on those cays on
the edge of the banks that are adjacent to oceanic waters,
but there are small numbers across the country even still
on Providenciales itself. Since the counts were made
much has happened which may have impacted on these
important populations—from the Deepwater Horizon oil
spill to significantly increased numbers of tourists and
residents which may cause added disturbance.
It is important that we get a clearer understanding
of how our breeding seabirds are doing and areas they
currently use. This data can inform planning and development
decisions so that this asset is not damaged further.
There are plans for a full survey of all TCI’s breeding
seabirds over the next few years using both human surveyors
and a range of recently developed technology such
as drones, remote cameras, and acoustic recording. The
latter will be particularly important to help understand
how many Audubon’s Shearwaters Puffinus Iherminien
there still are in the Islands. These birds breed in burrows
so are particularly vulnerable to predation by rats.
They are also nocturnal so are rarely encountered. They
are still here though. Small flocks can be seen beyond the
reef in Grace Bay during the spring and summer.
42 www.timespub.tc

The Turks & Caicos Islands are blessed with natural
beauty. The threat of destruction from development is
obvious but if there is to be a vibrant economy and homes
and jobs for people then this is the inevitable trade-off
that must be made. There are though far more insidious
threats which degrade and eat away at the remaining
natural areas. even those protected through legislation.
Many of these arise directly from Invasive Non-Native
Species (INNS), species which have been introduced either
deliberately or accidentally to these islands. The negative
impacts of Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease and alien
Lionfish on TCI’s valuable reef and marine life have been
effectively communicated locally by the Turks & Caicos
Reef Fund and Department of Environment and Coastal
Resources (DECR).
On land, Green Iguanas Iguana iguana are already
present in small numbers on Providenciales. The DECR,
National Trust, and volunteers are catching and euthanising
them when found. This creature is a significant
economic pest. The Cayman Islands Government has
just spent over $8 million removing over 1.2 million of
these animals from Grand Cayman, an island just twice
the size of Providenciales, and will have to spend valuable
resources into the foreseeable future managing a species
which should simply not be there. If we want to keep TCI
“Beautiful by Nature,” we need to work together to keep
this species out. A project funded by the UK Government
through Darwin Plus is currently underway to highlight
the threat this species poses to both the natural environment
and the economy of the Islands.
What does this have to do with the systematic list
of birds of TCI? Another invasive non-native species is
the Australian Pine Casuarina equisetifolia which is widespread
at the back of beaches and on disturbed ground
across the Islands, particularly on the north shore. Around
human settlements it has a function of creating shade
and is appreciated for the sound of the wind blowing
through its leaves. In natural areas it is a disaster, shading
out native vegetation that is food for the endemic
Rock Iguanas. It was noticeable during our Piping Plover
surveys that the birds avoid beaches where tall Australian
pine trees create a shadow effect and in January/February
2022, we identified that many sandy spits being used by
the plovers as roosts at high tide were beginning to be
hemmed in by Australian pines.
We do not know what impact the further spread and
growth of these trees will have on this marvellous migratory
wader for which so much effort is being put into
saving by communities in North America. A precaution-
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E-Mail: ffdlawco@tciway.tc
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 43

SIMON BUSUTTIL
This image demonstrates that native plants re-grow vigorously where Australian pine has been removed at Half Moon Bay.
ary principle should be applied, and areas of Australian
Pine quickly removed from Piping Plover roost sites, all
of which have been identified. At Half Moon Bay, where
National Trust volunteers are removing this tree, the plovers
were clearly feeding adjacent to areas which had
been cleared but not areas backed by tall trees. This is
active conservation management and it seems likely that
to counter the threats from invasive alien species and
to balance the impacts of development, more of these
initiatives will need to be developed and implemented in
the future if we are to keep our piping plovers, flocks of
migrant waders and cays of breeding seabirds.
There is already a largely unsung story to be told
about a world-leading conservation success in Turks &
Caicos. Over the past decade or so, over $2.7 million has
been invested in the conservation of the Turks & Caicos
Rock Iguana, resulting in the International Union for the
Conservation of Nature uplifting the conservation status
of the species from Critically Endangered (one step short
of extinction in the wild) to Endangered. To date, this is
the only one of the 44 species of iguana worldwide which
has had a genuine positive change in fortune. Part of this
success story is on Pine Cay, where the cats introduced
in the mid 1970s have now been successfully removed.
Pine Cay is thus one of a small but growing number of
islands worldwide (currently fewer than 100) which has
successfully removed feral cats.
Turks & Caicos has a proven track record of conservation
success. We need to build on this and identify what
are the further challenges we need to tackle. a
Simon Busuttil is Biosecurity Advisor for The Iguana
Islands Partnership.The partnership is a collaboration
between Turks & Caicos National Trust, Turks & Caicos
Government, private island managers, and international
wildlife conservation organisations—The Royal Society
for the Protection of Birds, San Diego Zoo, and Wildlife
Management International Ltd. The partnership, with
funding from the Darwin Initiative, is working to ensure
Turks & Caicos’ iguana islands remain “Beautiful by
Nature.”
44 www.timespub.tc

Times of the Islands Spring 2022 45

RICHARD MCGHIE

feature
Opposite page: Local artist Richard McGhie painted this image of the Concepción in stormy seas. He has been avidly drawing and painting
since moving to Turks & Caicos in 2014. Captivated by his surroundings, he tries to capture the beauty and rich history of the Islands in his
art. You can see more of his work on Instagram at richmcghie_art or contact him directly at richardmcghie@outlook.com.
Above: A “treasure hunter” handles one of the few remaining pieces of wood from the wreck of the Concepción, now a protected site. The
ship wrecked on what is now the Silver Bank (Banco de la Plata), 85 miles (136 km) north of the Dominican Republic and 100 miles (160 km)
southeast of Grand Turk in 1641.
JONATHAN BLAIR
Wreck of the Concepción
The fateful final voyage of a treasure-laden Spanish galleon.
By Ben Stubenberg ~ Original Painting by Richard McGhie
Strewn across the long barrier reefs and shallow banks that encircle the Turks & Caicos lie more than
1,000 shipwrecks. Each one comes with a unique yet kindred story of crew and passengers staring down
death as relentless waves drag their helpless vessel over hull-ripping coral. Some manage to hang on long
enough to ride out the storm before the ship breaks up and make it to shore. But for many more, it’s one
last gasp of air before the sea pulls them under to a blue-water grave.
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 47

Every so often, however, a wreck stands out with
a tale of transcendent irony. A voyage of the doomed
cursed by the plunder they carry. A desperate reckoning
of the soul as mortality beckons. Such is the case of
the Spanish galleon Nuestra Señora de la Pura y Limpia
Concepción, one of the richest treasure ships of all time.
On April 21, 1640 the Concepción set sail from the
Bay of Cadiz, Spain, as the Capitana (Flagship) of the La
Flota de Nueva España (The New Spain Fleet), a convoy
of 21 ships bound for Vera Cruz, Mexico. In the months
before, the Concepción had been refitted with new masts,
sails, anchors, deck space, and 36 bronze cannons. They
transformed the ship from a nao (large merchant ship)
to a formidable galeón that carried 500 passengers that
included noblemen, servants, fortune seekers, friars, and
bureaucrats. Stowaways too bribed their way onto the
ship, trying to remain invisible. Also on board were hundreds
of penned up animals, barrels of wine, and crates
of supplies—all to fortify and expand the settlements in
the colonized lands in the Americas.
The more privileged passengers took up quarters in
the lavishly decorated superstructure or “poop decks” at
the stern, towering four stories above main deck. They
included the new Viceroy for Mexico and and three bishops
who brought with them religious relics, including,
purportedly, a thorn from the crown of Jesus Christ and
the severed finger of St. Andrew. As added protection, a
magnificent statue of the Virgin Mary, the patroness of
the vessel, was fastened with bolts to the poop deck for
all to see.
The fleet kept close together during the crossing
and a sharp lookout for Corsairs or pirates who appeared
menacingly on the horizon from time to time. On June 24,
all ships made it to the port of Vera Cruz, a stifling hot
and humid town on the Mexican coast and the gateway to
what the newcomers called New Spain. Soon after arrival,
the fleet commander, known as the Capitana-General,
died, probably of yellow fever. That elevated Admiral
Juan de Campos to the new Capitana-General on the flagship
Concepción. The shuffle also promoted Don Juan de
Villavicencio to the rank of Vice Admiral or Almiranta on
the smaller galleon San Pedro y San Pablo. Villavicencio
at just 37 years old was already an experienced veteran
of many Atlantic crossings. De Campos, by contrast, was
more a businessman than a mariner.
Fateful delays
The ships stayed anchored for a year to await the arrival
of mule trains and boats carrying tons of silver mined by
enslaved Native Americans and Africans in Mexico and
Petosi (now Bolivia), along with gold bullion. They also
waited for another caravan making its way overland from
Acapulco, this one hauling jade, silks, spices, fragile porcelain
pots, and other luxuries from China brought across
the Pacific by the Manila fleet.
When the valuable cargoes arrived, haggling merchants
traded the supplies from Spain for the silver and
other valuables that were loaded onto the Concepción and
the San Pedro y San Pablo for the voyage back to Spain.
The Concepción alone took in at least 100 tons of silver,
possibly as much a 140 tons, filling it up to the gunwales.
No galleons with treasure had made it back to Spain in
1640, causing great anxiety for shipowners, merchants,
and the Spanish Crown. Spanish King Philip IV in particular
desperately needed his royal fifth (quinto real) cut of
the treasure to pay his armies to keep the wars going with
the Dutch and French. But as coffers emptied and time
dragged on, bankruptcies loomed for all.
Just before departing Vera Cruz for a stop in Havana,
de Campos switched the Capitana of the fleet from the
Concepción to the San Pedro y San Pablo. The decision
appeared to be triggered by the deteriorating condition
of the Concepción’s from shipworms that had worsened
while at anchor for a year in warm tropical waters.
Villavicencio, now in command of the Concepción, forcefully
pointed out that the ship would need to be repaired
in Havana before it could make it back across the Atlantic.
In making the switch, de Campos also made a fateful decision
to transfer the inexperienced senior pilot, Bartolomé
Guillen, to the Concepción.
The fleet set sail for Havana in late July. The leaking
and slow moving Concepción took a long 35 days to
reach Cuba’s bustling capital city on August 27, 1641.
That date put the ships a full week after August 20, the
last day Spanish shipmasters deemed it safe to depart
Havana to avoid hurricanes. The ships remained in port
another 17 days to take on more passengers and allow
Villavicencio to caulk the seams of his ship. But he still did
not feel the repairs were sufficient for safe passage. He
petitioned de Campos for a further delay, but to no avail.
De Campos, well aware of the crown’s urgent dependence
on the treasure, wanted to get underway and brooked no
more postponement.
De Campos’s anxiousness to set sail, however, was
also driven by a more self-serving motive. La Flota de
Nueva España was supposed to be joined by another fleet,
La Flota Terra Firma, on its way north from Cartageña to
Havana with its own treasure of precious metals and jew-
48 www.timespub.tc

els. But that fleet’s Capitana-General was equal in rank to
de Campos and held in much higher regard for successfully
raiding an English settlement in what is now Nassau.
If the fleets traveled together, de Campos would have to
share the glory of delivering the treasure to the crown
with a much more popular and accomplished Capitana-
General. His ego and jealousy would seal the fate of the
Concepción and all the ships in his flotilla.
The hurricane
Deep into hurricane season, La Flota de Nueva España
finally departed Havana on September 13, heading
northeast toward the Florida Straits to catch the Gulf
Stream back across the Atlantic. But less than a day out,
the Concepción sprang a serious leak that put the ship
at risk of sinking. Villavicencio signaled with a lantern
that his ship must return to port. That required all the
other ships to turn around as well so that the Concepción
didn’t sail solo and risk attack by pirates. Back in Havana,
Villavicencio unloaded the galleon of its massive treasure
cargo and hundreds of passengers to lighten the ship and
bring it above the waterline to plug the leaks. The fleet
set sail once more on September 20, now a month after
the final date set for fleets heading back to Spain.
Eight days out off the coast of Florida, a major hurricane
struck. For two days, violent winds and waves
battered the ships of the fleet and almost capsized the
top-heavy Concepción. Mast snapped, water poured into
the portholes, and cannons were thrown overboard.
Priests led the terrified passengers and crew in prayer and
took confessions from everyone. All anxiously looked for
some sign of a reprieve, but the storm continued to rage.
At some point, the statue of the Virgin Mary broke loose
and disappeared into the churning ocean. The shock of
losing the ship’s patron saint induced deep despair that
the end was truly nigh.
When the storm cleared, the sailors worked the hand
pumps around the clock to bail out water. They cut away
the mast and rigged makeshift sails on remaining spars
to try to gain some control of the ship. The damage to the
rudder, already too small for the size of the ship, made
steering difficult. The crew spotted some ships from the
fleet in the distance, including the flagship San Pedro y
San Pablo, just as beaten up as the Concepción. But they
all disappeared from view after a day.
Using an astrolabe, the pilot Guillen attempted to
determine the ship’s latitude. The navigation instrument
worked by taking measurements from the height of the
sun or the polar star over the horizon. His calculations
showed the ship could be somewhere near St. Augustine,
north of the Bahamas, or maybe near Bermuda. The chronometer
for determining longitude had not yet been
invented, so they did not know how far east they were
from Florida.
Villavicencio decided that the Concepción’s best hope
was to try to make it to San Juan, Puerto Rico, that lay
somewhere to the south. For weeks, the crippled vessel
lumbered in a southeasterly direction. Along the way,
unsanitary conditions contaminated the dwindling supply
of food and water that hadn’t washed overboard and
began to sicken people.
At about 22º N latitude, east of Grand Turk, Guillen
claimed that Puerto Rico must be due south. He called
on Villavicencio to set the course accordingly. But
Villavicencio, who plainly had no confidence in the pilot’s
capabilities, countered that Puerto Rico was further east.
A contentious argument broke out between the two officers
until the pilot invoked his right per Spanish maritime
regulations to overrule the captain when navigation disputes
arise. A frustrated Villavicencio, knowing the rules,
ordered that a silver basin with water brought to him. In
front of the weary crew and sullen passengers gathered
on main deck of the struggling ship, he literally and symbolically
washed his hands of responsibility. The ship’s
fate was then in the hands of the pilot Guillen.
Wreck on the reef
In calm water on the night of October 31, the eve of All
Saints Day, the Concepción’s hull scraped against a reef
and came to a shuttering halt. The ship had jammed
between two giant coral heads shaped like mushrooms
rising from the seafloor. Called Abrojos, they appeared
as flat rocks just above the water at low tide. Some were
the size of a living room, some as big as a football field
that stretched out for miles. Guillen’s new calculations
put the ship about 20 miles (32 km) north of Anagada
Island in the Virgin Islands and east of Puerto Rico. In
fact, the pilot’s new assertions were wildly off the mark.
The ship wrecked on what is now the Silver Bank (Banco
de la Plata), 85 miles (136 km) north of the Dominican
Republic and 100 miles (160 km) southeast of Grand
Turk.
The crew tried to tow the Concepción away from the
coral heads using a longboat that had somehow survived
intact. They almost succeeded, but waves drove
the ship back in. The bow of the ship split open and
began submerging. The stern with its lavishly appointed
superstructure rose above the surface, as around 450
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 49

desperate survivors crammed into the remaining space.
Villavicencio ordered rafts to be built that could take
them to Anagada, which he also believed to be the closest
island, notwithstanding his disdain for the pilot. But a
widespread belief that cannibals lived there caused some
hesitation, even as options were quickly running out.
While preparing to evacuate the wreck, Villavicencio
and other officers turned their attention to how best to
protect the treasure. To our 21st century ears, such a
consideration amidst great suffering and imminent lifethreatening
danger comes across as rather unsettling. In
the 17th century, however, securing the treasure for the
Crown had the same priority.
In the midst of a thunder and lightning storm on
the third night after running aground, fights broke out
that killed several people. Villavicencio tried to stop the
violence with reassurances that everyone would get off
the ship, and that he would be the last to leave. But by
then his authority had collapsed, replaced by panic and
anarchy. At that point, Villavicencio and 31 officers and
noblemen clamored into the remaining longboat to get
away. Accounts differ on how Villavicencio actually came
to be on the boat. He would later claim that he tried to
stay on the ship, but that one of his officers pushed him
to the water where he was pulled into the boat unconscious.
The hundreds still on board ripped planks to finish
a dozen rafts. In chaotic groups, they set out on the sea
with most heading south. Some of the rafts sank so low
in the water that sharks swam into them and fed on the
people hanging on. After three or four days, the rafts that
didn’t sink washed up on the north coast of what is now
the Dominican Republic, as happened with the longboat
carrying Villavicencio. Even after reaching land, the ordeal
of the survivors was far from over. They still had to trek
through the jungle or along stretches of empty beach
with little food or water to find help.
About 30 survivors took their chances and remained
with the Concepción, hoping to be rescued. As the ship
continued to disintegrate, they unloaded as much silver
as they could and piled it onto the flat top of a coral head
that could serve as a marker for rescuers. The pile was
so high they could walk on what became essentially a
platform above the water at high tide.
The irony is not lost. The silver bars brutally and
forcibly extracted and refined by the enslaved to pay for
endless European wars and make fabulous fortunes for
merchants and shipowners lost their anticipated value.
Instead, they acquired a much higher transformative
value as slabs that staved off death for another day. When
the Concepción totally broke apart, they too escaped on a
raft. Of the last 30 to leave the wreck, only one, a Native
American, lived to tell the story.
Searching for the Concepción
Of the more than 500 passengers and crew on the
Concepción, fewer than 200 survived. The pilot Guillen
made it to land, but knowing the likely fate of long imprisonment
or execution that awaited him, he disappeared,
never to be heard from again. Spanish officials first
learned about the wreck when Villavicencio and the survivors
from the longboat straggled into Santo Domingo
famished and in rags. They had walked 170 miles (272
km) over mountainous terrain guided by locals. More survivors
would follow. Spanish officials questioned them
about the location of the wreck to mount a search and
recover the silver. But no one could pinpoint the location.
Word got out quickly among pirates and opportunists,
and for years they scoured the reef for signs of the wreck
and the chance to become rich beyond dreams. But none
of them found it either.
In 1687, 46 years later, William Phips from New
England came across an old survivor of the Concepción.
With funding from a London syndicate of investors and
the backing of King James II, as well as incredible luck, he
managed to find the wreck. As in the first extraction of
the gold and silver decades before, Phips used enslaved
Africans and Native Americans to do the hard and dangerous
work to recover treasure. These enslaved may have
numbered as many as 60 skilled free divers who brought
up several tons of precious metal up from the sea floor.
Without these divers from Bermuda, Jamaica,
Barbados, and the Dominican Republic, Phips would not
have retrieved much, if anything. Europeans at the time
had none of the aquatic capabilities, such as five minutes
of underwater breath holding, required for such an operation.
The haul made Phips a vast fortune and got him
knighted by the King, who also appointed him Governor
of Massachusetts Colony. Interestingly, during his tenure
as Governor, he created a special court in 1692 to handle
the infamous Salem witch trials.
Almost 300 years would pass before the Concepción
was rediscovered in 1978 by American treasure hunter
Burt Webber. Using magnetometers and scuba gear to
find what Phips missed, Webber managed to bring up gold
and silver valued at US$13 million. This time, the recovery
was made under the watchful eye of the Dominican
Republic Government, that also received a substantial
50 www.timespub.tc

share of the treasure. UK/TCI also has a long standing
claim to the reefs that include the Silver Bank where the
wreck is located. The claim of jurisdiction remains unresolved
to this day.
Many treasure hunters like Phips and Webber became
popular heroes in their day for the bold, adventurous
expeditions that also made them multi-millionaires.
Today, however, the reputation of treasure hunters has
tarnished as preservationists and nautical archeologists
portray them as reef destroyers, heritage stealers, and
little more than grave robbers.
Governments still permit recoveries of treasure off
their shores, but under strict guidelines and direct observation.
Reflective of modern times, the reefs of the Silver
Bank where the Concepción met a grim and grisly end is
now a UN Underwater Cultural Heritage, World Heritage
Site and protected from further exploitation.
Tarnished treasure
Ships in peril have always fascinated and drawn us in.
They serve as metaphors for journeys of self discovery
and vulnerability, as well as microcosms of society that
lend clarity to the eternal conflict between good and evil.
Wrecks can also play out like Greek tragedies with a flawed
captain battling forces where the outcome has already
been decided by fate. The voyage of the Concepción contains
these elements, but another comparison comes
mind: a passage into the Heart of Darkness.
Just as Joseph Conrad’s novella about a steamer heading
up the Congo River reveals the horrors of colonialism
in Africa, so too does the voyage of the Concepción
expose the heinous plunder of the Americas. There is no
mysterious Kurtz to find, nor is Charlie Marlow’s steamer
about to run aground. But the meandering vessel across
the sea, unsure of where it is and laden with blood money
extracted for an imperial class, reflects the same essential
theme. Both are damning indictments that challenge
our notions of civilization. And the shipworms infesting
the leaky vessel, of course, take on their own potent symbolism
of rot and demise.
Perhaps those aboard the Concepción made a connection
between their fate and the cargo they carried,
as they sought to cleanse their souls while the hurricane
bore down. But it seems unlikely, as none were recorded
by the survivors. We do know that when the dying galleon
hit the reef and the game was up, Villavicencio and
officials worried about how to save the treasure, not how
it came to be. That ingrained ethos of avarice would continue
to shape the conquest of the Americas for the next
250 years.
Pieces of that tainted silver still lie sprinkled in the
sand and encrusted in coral around the wreck of the
Concepción, just three hours by boat from the Turks &
Caicos Islands. In the quiet of the deep, they resonate as
poignant reminders of a harrowing history lingering just
below the surface that never remains in the past. a
Ben Stubenberg (bluewaterben@gmail.com) is a regular
contributor to the Times of the Islands and a storyteller
about pirates and sunken treasure. He is the co-founder
of the TCI tour and swim company Caicu Naniki Vacation
Adventures and the annual “Race for the Conch” Eco-
SeaSwim.
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 51

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

feature
Opposite page: The sense of peace and balance instilled by the sea can create more healing than any therapy session.
Above: Sea anemones are actually marine animals, named after a terrestrial flowering plant because of their colourful appearance. What joy
they bring to a scuba diver!
The Power of Vitamin Sea
One dose released Tristan to bloom.
Story & Photos By Kelly Currington
For anyone who loves the sea, the feeling of being connected to its powers seems to come naturally. We
feel drawn to it for our sense of peace and balance, and to reset from the chaos of everyday life. When we
slip below the surface of the waves, our souls are at home, and everything is as it should be. As a scuba
instructor, I have had the pleasure of experiencing those powers first-hand and understand they create
more healing than many a therapy session could provide.
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 53

Teaching people to scuba dive is rewarding in so many
ways, but every now and then you come across a student
whose transformation is as rewarding to you as it is to
the new diver. These are the moments instructors live
for. Teaching skills is pretty straight forward, but when
the power of the sea makes an actual, literal, and visual
change in a person it stays with you forever. One such
experience is definitely worth sharing . . .
A young man and his mom walked into the dive shop
to fill out paperwork for a Discover Scuba Dive, and it
was immediately apparent that this 16 year-old was very
shy and withdrawn, and that I would need patience and
understanding to get him through the training. During
the pool sessions he surprised me, and accomplished the
skills with ease, though he never maintained eye contact
for any length of time. He would look long enough to see
the skill demonstrated and then look down. But he was
proficient and comfortable in performing them. I was confident
that he was ready to explore the underwater world.
On the 45-minute boat ride out to the dive site, I
briefed him on the dive plan and as before, he never
looked at me—just stared at the deck. The time came to
gear up to enter the water. He was very quiet and waited
for instructions. As soon as we stepped off the boat into
the sea, I looked up and saw the worry on his mother’s
face. I assured her that I would look after him as if he
were my own son; she nodded and off we went.
As we swam to the mooring line, I stayed beside him
and assured him he was doing just fine. We made it to
the line and I briefed him on how we would descend—
exact instructions. I asked him if he understood, if he was
ready, and reminded him that he must look at me and
communicate. He nodded and we slowly slipped below
the surface. As an instructor I was on high alert, fearing
that he would either panic and try to bolt to the surface
or never look at me for instructions or assurance.
I noticed his mask was fully flooded. I gave him the
signal to clear it and he did. It flooded again; he cleared
it. This is a skill that can derail experienced divers, but he
had listened and learned and did exactly what he should.
He stayed calm, looked to me for guidance, and followed
those instructions. To my surprise, he was fine and didn’t
seem stressed at all.
In the next few moments, the magical healing power
of the sea took hold of this introverted, shy teenager, and
he blossomed like a morning glory in the early morning
light. I could not believe what I was seeing. He started
pointing out fish and coral and looking at me with bright,
excited eyes. His SOUL was smiling! It was truly magical
to watch. We completed our dive, did our safety stop, and
got back on the boat. I was so proud. We went to the bow
between dives to debrief and plan the next dive. With his
mother beside him, I asked how he felt about the dive.
This young man looked me square in the eyes and talked
about all the fish and coral we had seen. He wanted to
know the names of each one, and asked questions about
how to learn them all. We spent the entire surface interval
conversing about the beauty the sea held.
What a treat to spot a friendly Nassau grouper, so-named from its historically large populations in the Bahamas.
54 www.timespub.tc

When I asked if he was ready to do the next dive, he
looked at me and said, “Would you really take me on
another dive?” The process was different this time. He
was looking at me and smiling; he was ready to go. We
geared up and off we went. He was equalizing and signaling,
looking confident and relaxed. With no mask issues
to deal with, he went right back to looking for creatures
and showing me his hand signals for each one he found.
My mask filled with tears of joy as I watched this young
man experiencing the wonder of this underwater world
and the healing power of the sea. We stayed side-by-side,
and he showed me creatures and I showed him creatures,
and when he saw his first shark, instead of being afraid,
he turned to me, beaming the biggest smile and did the
“shark” sign.
Often spotted in schools, the yellowtail snapper is an abundant species
of snapper native to the western Atlantic Ocean.
We made our way to the boat and headed back to
shore. The flower that had blossomed was closed again.
He laid his head on his mother’s back and never said
a word. She told me that he had never had a conversation
with another adult and when he talked to me the
entire surface interval, she knew something special had
happened under water. She opened up to me about his
struggles, his low self-worth, and his depression. The
things I learned about this young man broke my heart,
but also made me realize that being below the waves had
reached a part of him previously shut off and inaccessible.
I was determined to help him re-gain the happiness
and confidence the sea had drawn out of him.
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 55

Spotting a Hawksbill turtle during a dive or snorkel in the Islands is a treat. Staying quiet and calm can encourage it to stay near.
Back at the shop I addressed him directly and told him
how amazing it was to see him smiling and pointing out
fish and taking charge of the dive, and the confidence
he had demonstrated. I encouraged him to nurture the
experience and get certified and assured him I would
dive with him any time. He looked at me and merely said,
“Thank you.” I encouraged his mother to keep this experience
fresh in his mind, and reiterated the difference in
the shy, withdrawn, closed-off kid above the waves, and
the excited, smiling, happy, and confident young man I
had seen on our dives. She promised me she would and
thanked me.
The day ended and I went home, but the events of the
day weighed heavy on my heart. I wondered how this kid
felt and if he would ever bloom again. I wondered if he
realized the effect that being underwater had on him. I
wondered if he knew how he had affected me.
The next morning, I was at our shop getting gear
ready for the boats and I saw two people on bicycles cutting
across the lot. It was this young man and his mother.
I was a little stunned to say the least. She approached
me and said, “He insisted on getting up at 5:00 AM and
coming down here so he could say good-bye to you.” I felt
the tears welling up and choked them back as he stepped
in front of me. He said he wanted to thank me for taking
him diving and for showing him all the amazing things
down there. He asked for my e-mail address so he could
stay in touch. I told him what an incredible young man
he was and how proud I was of him. I reminded him to
find a dive shop in his home town and get certified. They
hugged me, went on their way and my tears were free
to stream down my face. THESE are the moments that
remind us how powerful and healing is a single dose of
vitamin “Sea.”
He did get certified, keeping me informed through his
journey. He and his mother came back two years later,
and he and I went diving together. On the last dive of
his trip, he motioned for me to approach him underwater.
This young man hugged me tight, and gave me the
“Thank You” signal. My mask was again filled with happy,
proud tears. He has continued to come out of his shell
and has dreams of becoming a divemaster, and maybe
even an instructor.
The powers of the sea took this shy kid and drowned
his insecurities and self-doubt, unveiled his curiosity for
exploring, and filled him with the desire to grow. Of all the
students I have taught over the years, this young man’s
transformation remains in the forefront of my mind and
heart. Vitamin Sea had saved my life many years back . .
. and now I watched it save another.
This is Tristan’s story, and how one dose of Vitamin
Sea empowered him to bloom . . . a
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green pages
Newsletter of the Department of Environment & Coastal Resources
Head office: Church Folly, Grand Turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895
• Astwood Street, South Caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710
• National Environmental Centre, Lower Bight Road, Providenciales
Parks Division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793
Fisheries Division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793
email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web https://www.gov.tc/decr/
The underside of a humpback whale’s tail is like a fingerprint and can be used to identify individual whales between feeding and breeding
grounds. A single photograph like this one can provide valuable information about humpback whale migrations.
Helping the Humpback
Protecting one of the Islands’ biggest natural wonders.
Each winter, hundreds of North Atlantic Humpback whales (Megaptera novaeangliae) travel thousands of
kilometers from their summer feeding grounds in colder waters to the turquoise shallows surrounding
the Turks & Caicos Islands. It is here, along the Islands’ extensive stretch of underwater banks, that the
animals come to find a mate or give birth to their calves, making it one of the world’s premiere locations
for whale watching.
By Katharine Hart and Cathy Bacon, Turks & Caicos Islands Whale Project
Photos By Katharine Hart, Deep Blue Charters
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 57

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
This is one of the few
places in the world where
you can get in the water
and snorkel eye-to-eye
with one of the planet’s
largest mammals. It is
also one of the few places
in the world where you
can have such an up-close
encounter with marine
wildlife without any
regulations in place to
ensure the safety of both
the animals and curious
observers.
Currently, tour operators
are not required to
have any specific license
or training to facilitate
whale watching activities.
There are no limits as to
how many tour operators
can approach the whales
at one time, or how close
they can get. And with the
pressure from guests to
capture selfies and other
Instagram-worthy photos
of themselves swimming
with whales, some operators can be tempted to get as
close to the animals as possible. The Department of
Environment & Coastal Resources (DECR) has issued a
voluntary code of ethics for whale watching to discourage
such behavior, but there are no legal ramifications
for those who do not follow these guidelines.
As whale watching tourism continues to increase in
Turks & Caicos, it is vital to implement laws that protect
this species from behavior that can stress them at a time
in their lives when they are particularly vulnerable after
just having given birth.
The newly formed Turks & Caicos Islands Whale
Project is a collaborative project between researchers,
the DECR and watersports operators, including Deep Blue
Charters, to collect data on the local humpback whale
population that will be used to inform the development
of protective legislation in the near future.
This humpback whale is breaching during competition with other whales. Competitive groups of males are
often seen fighting over a female on the Turks Bank.
Over the next year, private whale watching operators
will be encouraged to document whale sightings during
their daily excursions using photography and video at the
surface and underwater cameras for in-water encounters.
Hydrophones may also be used to collect acoustic samples
from singing male humpback whales or groups of
males competing for a female mate.
Photographing individual whales—specifically the
underside of their flukes, which have unique fingerprint-like
patterns—will allow researchers to track the
whales’ migratory routes between feeding and breeding
grounds. By partnering with both local and international
whale watching companies, researchers, and non-governmental
organizations, photographic matches can be
made, which can tell us where humpback whales have
migrated from and if the same ones continue to return
to the Turks and Caicos Islands. Already this season, at
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Pectoral fin slapping is a frequently seen behaviour when whale watching in the Turks & Caicos Islands.
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 59

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
least one mother whale has been identified as one who
has given birth several times in the region over the last
few years. Others have been tracked to Maine, New York,
Virginia Beach, Newfoundland and Labrador, and Samaná
Bay (Dominican Republic). Monitoring and assessment of
humpback whale behavior in response to boat vessels on
the surface and interaction with humans in the water will
also be used to inform future proposed legislation that
will enforce safe and conservation-focused interactions
with these beautiful giants once pushed to the brink of
extinction by whaling.
Our hope is that this research will allow us to better
understand these creatures and how we as humans can
support them while continuing to have safe interactions
with them for generations to come.
All members of the public can support marine mammal
conservation in the Turks & Caicos Islands and be
part of this collaborative conservation effort by adhering
to the Fisheries Protection and the National Parks
Ordinances and by submitting photographs and videos
taken while out on the water in the Turks & Caicos
Islands. If the TCI Whale Project is able to match your
image, the information about that whale will be shared
with you and credit given for the images. Submissions
are welcomed by email at tciwhaleproject@gmail.com
or via Facebook.com/tciwhaleproject or Instagram @
TCIWhaleProject.
Fisheries Protection Ordinance (5 of 1941) as amended,
Regulations Part III Conservation Provisions:
Restrictions on means of taking marine product and
harmful activities:
9. (1) No person shall —
(g) engage in the practice of throwing any food into the
water for the purposes of feeding or attracting or harvesting
any species of marine life unless authorized to do so
by the Director;
Restrictions relating to marine mammals
18. No person shall engage in fishing for, molest or otherwise
interfere with any marine mammal.
This humpback whale calf approaches snorkelers during a humpback
whale watching charter. Young whales are often curious about snorkelers
in the water and swim over for a closer look.
National Parks Ordinance (11 of 1975) as amended,
Regulations on Prohibitions and Permitted Activities:
3(1),(2),(3):
(a) The taking of any animal or plant by any method on
land or at sea except to the extent permitted in any fishing
zone;
(c) The destruction of, or damage or injury to, any animal
or plant;
(d) The removal of sand, rock, coral, coral-rag or any calcareous
substance;
(e) Anchor damage to coral reef structures living or dead
and associated marine plant and animal life.
As per the regulations, any person who contravenes
any provision of these regulations commits an offence
and is liable on conviction to a fine of $50,000 or to a
term of imprisonment of twelve months or to both such
fine and imprisonment. a
Similarly, the following activities are prohibited within all
national parks, nature reserves and sanctuaries, and will
not be tolerated:
Katharine Hart is a marine biologist and co-owner of
Deep Blue Charters on Grand Turk. Cathy Bacon is a
marine biologist based in the United States. Both are lead
researchers for the Turks & Caicos Islands Whale Project.
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To ensure that Humpback Whales return the following year, here are some points to
consider to keep both you happy and the whales safe on their journey:
During this sensitive period, vessels should approach slowly, carefully, and quietly
(keeping engine noise to a minimum). Maintaining a respectful distance ensures that
they will not be stressed or feel threatened.
Avoid “fencing in” the whales. This includes blocking them between boats, too close to
shore/shallow water, cutting off their direction of travel, chasing after them, or getting
between mother and calf.
If whales change their direction 3-5 times, it means they are feeling hassled or
stressed. Simply maintain your distance and allow them their space. Disturbed whales
will swim away and your viewing could be unfortunately cut short.
When operating a vessel, move parallel to the whales to avoid approaching them headon,
as this may give the whales the impression that they are being chased. Surprised
whales may show aggression and become very dangerous given their size.
Mothers and calves are tired and are more likely to be “spooked.” They will need extra
consideration of the above.
If another vessel is with a whale or a group of whales, have some courtesy: Radio or
call that vessel to a) find out if it is safe to approach and b) ask if you may join the experience.
Proper communication will allow everyone to enjoy the experience.
Remember: whales are much bigger than people and most whale watching vessels.
Safety is always a priority, for both the whales and the viewers. Approaching with caution
ensures the whales stay happy and you will get the most out of your experience!
For more information, please contact DEMA at environment@gov.tc
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 61

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
A coral restoration plan is key to preserving the Turks & Caicos Islands’ stunning reefs.
Building an Ark
Pilot nursery can help stony corals survive.
By Alizee Zimmermann
2022 is off to a great start for coral restoration in these little blue islands we call home. The Turks &
Caicos Reef Fund (TCRF) has received a grant from the John Ellerman Foundation in the UK to establish a
pilot land-based coral nursery in an effort to create a species survival program for stony corals that have
been severely affected by Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease (SCTLD).
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TCRF
The John Ellerman Foundation grant will allow TCRF to preserve genetic samples of coral on coral tables (or raceways) as shown here.
This $173,000 grant, which provides funding for the
two-year pilot project, will allow TCRF to gather live samples
of some of the 30+ reef building corals that have
been devastated by SCTLD since the initial outbreak in
early 2019. By taking genetic samples of the corals out of
the water we can preserve them (essentially infinitely) in
what’s called “coral tables” or “raceways” and use them to
actively restore live tissue to the reef. Through a process
of micro-fragmentation, which involves cutting pieces of
coral into as small as 1x1cm 2 , we can prompt live tissue
to grow up to 40 times faster than it might in the wild.
That’s pretty wild!
The pilot tank will be set up in the TCRF office located
at South Bank Marina and the facility will be open to visitors.
We’re excited about the opportunities this will
provide for educational tours and for the training of local
volunteers in the basics of coral husbandry so that when
we are able to grow and increase our efforts, we’ll have
the local knowledge and capacity to do so.
But first, Step 1: Learn about the ins and outs of
coral husbandry as well as all the technical/engineering
aspects involved with aquaculture and closed-system
tanks. For this we have partnered with The Reef Institute
(www.reefinstitute.org) based in West Palm Beach,
Florida. They are a non-profit research and education-based
facility and have played a significant role in
the rescue efforts for Florida’s coral reefs. They house
the third largest collection of corals rescued from the
path of SCTLD along the Florida Reef Tract and they align
closely with our educational goals focusing on three main
areas: environmental sensitivity + scientific skills = oceanic
stewards.
With this grant award, we will be able to begin to
preserve samples of many iconic coral species that have
been the foundation of our reefs. The ultimate goal is
to greatly expand our land-based coral nursery program
allowing us to propagate these important reef building
corals and ultimately restore them to the reefs around the
Turks & Caicos Islands.
SCTLD has exacted a terrible toll on the reefs of the
TCI—it is a coral disease unlike any other, having now
affected reefs in 20+ tropical Atlantic and Caribbean
Island nations. It is a fast-moving, highly lethal disease
with a yet unknown cause affecting nearly all the major
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green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
reef building corals and has been identified on all the
reefs throughout the TCI.
This project, in essence, is providing an ark to preserve
the reef’s genetic diversity. Ultimately, we expect
to grow this project into a much bigger nursery program
that will allow us to re-establish many coral species on
TCI reefs whose numbers have been significantly reduced
due to this disease.
There is a lot of work ahead if we are to be successful,
but we’re committed to the cause and optimistic that
through carefully planned science and active restoration
we can not only preserve genetic diversity that might otherwise
be lost, but we can also bring that diversity back to
the reef through active restoration. 2022 is going to be a
good year for conservation in the Turks & Caicos. a
About the John Ellerman Foundation
The foundation was set up as a generalist grantmaking
trust in 1971 to focus on the broad philanthropic interests
of our benefactor Sir John Ellerman, while reflecting
changing times. Its aim is to advance the well-being of
people, society, and the natural world by focusing on
the arts, environment, and social action. The Foundation
supports organizations whose work has reach and significance
across the UK.
About TCRF
Founded in 2010, the Turks & Caicos Reef Fund is the
country’s only active environmental advocacy organization.
It provides funding for education, research, and
conservation programs to individuals, organizations, and
agencies that help to preserve and protect TCI’s environment.
Anyone wishing to donate or assist can contact
visit www.TCReef.org. Scuba divers visiting the Islands
are encouraged to make a $10 donation through the purchase
of a dive tag that can be attached to their dive gear
to show their support. Snorkelers can show their support
through the $5 purchase of a pink or blue silicone
wristband. Visitors can also support TCRF by purchasing
a rash guard designed each year by a different local artist.
A complete list of outlets for TCRF merchandise can be
found on the organization’s website.
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green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
Flamingoes like to nest in Salinas (large flat pools historically used for salt production), as the salt-encrusted, damp mud is inaccessible to
flamingo predators such as cats and birds.
CLARENCE STRINGER
Flamingo Flamboyance
The relationship between the salt industry and the American flamingo.
By Skylar Wuelfing, Waterfront Assistant
The School for Field Studies Center for Marine Resource Studies
Looking out across the salt flats of the Turks & Caicos Islands (TCI), one can often spot a flamboyance (or
large group) of brightly colored birds known as American flamingoes (Phoenicopterus ruber). These fluorescent
pink birds can be seen flocking around the Islands and are a popular attraction in the Caribbean,
a frequented breeding and feeding ground. Although they can be sighted on eight of the islands that
make up the Archipelago, flamingoes are most often seen on Providenciales, North Caicos and South
Caicos due to these islands being more highly populated, with more people actively looking for them.
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green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
While there are six species of flamingoes around the
world, the only species found in the TCI is the American
flamingo (also known as the Caribbean or West Indian flamingo).
They are found throughout Caribbean due to the
ideal conditions for nesting grounds on various islands.
Flamingoes like to nest in salinas (large flat pools historically
used for salt production), as the salt-encrusted,
damp mud is inaccessible to flamingo predators such as
cats and birds. It is currently estimated that there are
260,000–330,000 mature American flamingoes in the
Caribbean, making it a species of least concern on the
International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN)
red list, a scale that rates the level of endangerment of
species.
Salinas can be found on three islands within the
Turks & Caicos: Grand Turk, Salt Cay, and South Caicos.
On South Caicos, the salinas cover approximately 22%
of the island (455 acres), whereas they only cover 5% of
Grand Turk and 7% of Salt Cay. Historically in the TCI,
salinas were used for salt production from the mid 1700s
into the 1900s. Total salt exports reached around 140
million pounds annually, and across the three islands 800
acres of salinas were utilized for production.
A unique feature of the salt industry on South Caicos
is the Boiling Hole, a historically significant site and a
unique tourist attraction. Because it is comprised of a
subterranean cave system that is connected to the ocean,
it is periodically refreshed by the tide. As the tides bring
in water, they also bring brine shrimp which are one of
the flamingoes’ main prey.
Flamingoes tend to forage and breed in shallow bodies
of high saline environments consisting of a mix of
saline (sea water), brackish (a mix of sea water and fresh
water), and fresh water. Flamingoes prefer habitat types
with naturally high salinity as their prey (gastropods,
crustaceans, brine shrimp, and small insects) are more
abundant under high salinity conditions. In addition, the
salt-encrusted, damp mud allows for an ideal location to
build a nest as it provides the perfect conditions for egg
incubation.
Because flamingoes desire these very specific environments,
they are particularly vulnerable to human
disturbance in the Caribbean due to habitat destruction
and pollution. For instance, through the ups and downs
of the salt industry, populations of organisms residing in
the salinas fluctuated due to the uncontrolled changes
in the levels of salinity. Research has shown that these
salinity fluctuations affect flamingo behavior by changing
the population density of their food supply, which can
cause them to migrate away from or return to the TCI less
frequently.
As the salt industry grew to meet global demand
(becoming a world-wide commodity), the influx of people
and machines harvesting the salt created habitat changes
in the salinas that the flamingoes occupy, thus causing
them to frequent the Islands less often. Despite the massive
amounts of salt being produced and exported, the
TCI’s salt production entered a decline in the late 1960s.
CAITLIN E. O’BRIEN
This flamboyance of flamingoes is gathering near the Boiling Hole on South Caicos. As the tides bring in water, they also bring brine shrimp
which are one of the flamingoes’ main prey.
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CLARENCE STRINGER
Due to the small scale of production and a lack of both
funds and infrastructure, the Islands could no longer
keep up with the salt demand.
As the salt industry declined, the flamingoes had
all they needed for survival without the disturbance
of humans, which enabled them to slowly return.
Researchers found that in the late 1970s — right after
the decline of the salt industry — the American flamingo
population consisted of approximately 29,773 mature
individuals within the Turks & Caicos Islands.
Flamingoes are one of the most charismatic bird
species and a symbol for the conservation of tropical
ecosystems. This is often due to their fluorescent pink
coloring, which stems from their diets of algae, insects,
aquatic invertebrates, and small fishes. The algae contains
beta carotene, an organic chemical that contains
a reddish-orange pigment. This pigment, along with the
brine shrimp, are what turn the flamingoes’ feathers
pink. As flamingoes trigger an influx in tourism, many of
their foraging and breeding grounds have been deemed
reserves or sanctuaries. As such, the popularity of the
American flamingo indirectly protects many other species
that frequent or reside in their coastal habitat such as
molluscs (snails, mussels, or slugs), crustaceans (crabs
or shrimps), smaller birds (shorebirds), and chironomids
(small insects).
Flamingoes tend to forage and breed in shallow bodies of high saline
environments consisting of a mix of saline (sea water), brackish (a
mix of sea water and fresh water), and fresh water.
While flamingo habitat in the TCI is currently mostly
undisturbed, the country is beginning to experience
an increase in tourism. (Tourism is the main source of
revenue for many Caribbean islands and their local communities.)
Yet tourism is a major potential threat for
many local species, not just the American flamingo. While
weather, pollution, and salt production are key reasons
for population declines in many species, the threat that
seems to cause the most damage is the land development
that comes with tourism. This will not only affect the flamingoes
but also all the organisms and plants that thrive
in and around the salinas.
Because of the increasing potential for disturbance,
there is a need for conservation of flamingo habitat and
the species they associate with. Many places around the
Caribbean have already begun flamingo conservation initiatives.
The Caribbean Alliance for Flamingo Research
and Conservation (CAFRC) was established in 2007 to
ensure the protection and conservation of the flamingo
species. This alliance is similar to the Caribbean Flamingo
Network, and both organizations aim to promote the
study of the American flamingo and monitor flamingo
populations. They have also been working on establishing
areas of protection for the flamboyances of flamingoes
based on site fidelity.
It is imperative that conservation efforts and future
research are continued so that we may protect the
American flamingoes that live throughout the Caribbean.
With tourism increasing steadily, there is a growing need
for conservation efforts and public awareness.
Along with these efforts, tourists can help to protect
flamingoes in various ways. By staying on designated
paths/roads in the salinas and refraining from littering or
feeding the wildlife, tourists will ensure that they don’t
damage feeding areas or tread on a flamingo nest.
By being an eco-friendly tourist, we can help to protect
these iconic pink creatures so that future generations
can witness their beauty and grace. When you visit the
Islands, make sure you have plenty of sunscreen and a
decent pair of walking shoes so that you can have a flamingood
time while visiting the flamboyances that can be
found in the salinas of the Turks & Caicos! a
To learn more about the The School for Field Studies’
projects on South Caicos, go to http://www.fieldstudies.
org/tci.
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 67

astrolabe
newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Front Street, PO Box 188, Grand Turk, Turks & Caicos Islands, BWI TKCA 1ZZ
tel 649 247 2160/US incoming 786 220 1159 •
email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org
This postcard depicts raking salt on Grand Turk Island. Notice the jail and library in background. (Circa 1906.)
Raking Up the Past
Salt production on the Turks & Caicos Islands (Part 1)
Story & Postcard Images Courtesy Jeff Dodge
Salt was the most important industry on the Turks & Caicos Islands for almost 300 years. Salt was of
critical importance, not only for culinary purposes, but to preserve meat and fish. Since salt production
involved so many people and occupied so much land, it would be a photographer’s obvious subject.
Consequently, picture postcards made from early photographs of these islands included pictures of the
salt production process. All the postcards included in this article were printed from photographs taken
between 1905 and 1933.
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
The discovery that the Turks Islands were well suited
for the commercial production of salt by the solar evaporation
of seawater came about accidently.
Shipping between Bermuda and the West Indies was
common during the early 1600s. During these passages,
Bermudian vessels would sometimes stop at Grand Turk
or Salt Cay to salvage cargoes from ships wrecked on the
reefs near these islands. The practice of “wrecking” began
in Bermuda in the early 17th century and the practice
soon extended to the Caribbean.
The Turks & Caicos Islands were uninhabited in
the 1660s—the Lucayan population had been gone for
more than a century. The Islands were not only unpopulated,
but were unclaimed by any other country. It was
during this wrecking activity on the Turks Islands that
Bermudians noticed that salt collected in naturally occurring
shallow pans or ponds after seawater held in them
evaporated in the sun.
Bermudians began collecting salt by hand from these
shallow depressions on the Turks Islands on an informal
basis in the 1660s. By 1673 salt collection became more
organized—first on Salt Cay and five years later on Grand
Turk. In the beginning, Bermudians and their slaves occupied
the Turks Islands on a seasonal basis—arriving in
March and returning to Bermuda in November. The summer
months provided the Bermudian “salt rakers” with
the weather conditions needed to extract salt from seawater
by solar evaporation—hot temperatures, little rain
and steady trade winds.
The success of the Bermudian salt merchants did not
go unnoticed by the Spanish in Santo Domingo or the
French in Hispaniola. Between the years 1710 and 1783,
they repeatedly attacked the Turks Islands, the ships carrying
salt and the salt rakers working the salt ponds. In
1764 Great Britain declared the Islands a British possession.
In 1767, Andrew Symmer from Nassau was appointed
as the King’s Agent on Grand Turk. He devised the Royal
Regulations that year. These regulations, approved in
1781, established rules of governance for the Turks
Islands and for the salt industry. The Head Right System
that outlined who had the right to work the salt ponds was
part of these regulations. Under the Head Right System,
shares of the salt ponds were issued each February to
This postcard bears an image of East Harbour on South Caicos circa 1906. East Harbour would eventually become the largest producer of
salt on the Turks & Caicos Islands.
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
every adult, including
slaves, living on Grand
Turk and Salt Cay. The
shares issued to slaves
however, actually went to
the slave owner.
Agent Symmer’s activities
during his 30-year
tenure served to ensure
that the Islands would
eventually become part
of the Bahamas, which
they did in 1799. The
Islands were variously
under the control of the
Bahamian government or
the Jamaican government
until 1973.
Great Britain’s
Emancipation Act of 1834
freed over 1,900 slaves on
the Turks Islands. In theory,
freed slaves, under
the Head Right System,
would be given shares
in the salt ponds. Since
this was not favorable
to the former slave owners,
a leasehold system
was introduced in 1845.
Those with money (former
slave owners) remained in
control of the ponds while
freed slaves, having no
money, were no better off
than before emancipation. Many remained working for
their former owners.
At the end of 1861, following two years of dreadful
salt yields and the low prices salt commanded, lessees
found themselves unable to pay the rent for the salt properties
they leased from the government. A committee of
lessees at Grand Turk and Salt Cay was formed and in
1862 the leasehold system was replaced by a freehold
system. The government made up their loss of rental revenue
with an ad valorem royalty imposed on salt exports.
From top: This postcard depicts a canal leading from the sea to the
salt ponds. At one time there were seven such canals on Grand Turk
Island. (Circa 1905.)
This image shows the salt ponds on Grand Turk Island circa 1920.
Seawater coming from the ocean through canals entered public ponds
as large as five acres and 12 to 18 inches deep.
Salt production
Systematic salt production began on Salt Cay and Grand
Turk in the 1670s. East Harbour (Cockburn Harbour) on
South Caicos began salt production about 1848. East
Harbour would eventually become the largest producer
of salt on the Islands.
In 1857 salt production on West Caicos was explored.
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From top: This postcard depicts a hand-operated water wheel for “turning pickle,” circa 1910.
This wind-powered water wheel (circa 1905) was heavy and could not be moved. Kids would sometimes
ride on them as though they were riding on a carousel.
A company was formed, land was leased from the government
and a railway and wharf were built. Three years later
these attempts to produce salt on West Caicos ended as
the company in charge was no longer solvent.
The Bermudians organized and improved the salt
collection process in the
1670s by constructing
sluices to keep out the
sea and building stone
walls around the naturally
occurring salt ponds.
They also constructed new
ponds and built canals to
bring water from the sea
to flood their ponds.
Seawater coming from
the ocean through canals
entered public ponds as
large as five acres and 12
to 18 inches deep. When
the seawater in the public
ponds registered 30º on
a salometer (a device that
measures the percentage
of salt in solution), it was
sent through sluices to
smaller, privately owned
ponds. These ponds were
known as “weak ponds” or
No. 1 ponds. The brine or
“pickle” remained in a No.
1 pond until it measured
60º on the salometer. This
took about 20 days.
When the pickle measured
60º, it was moved to
a “strong pond” or a No.
2 pond. At this point, the
volume of seawater had
been reduced by 50%. The
pickle remained in the No.
2 pond for another 15 to
20 days until it measured
90º on a salometer. The
pickle was then pink in
color.
Since the salt ponds were at the same elevation, water
wheels were used to move pickle from pond to pond.
Water wheels were either hand-operated or wind-powered.
Hand-operated water wheels were portable and could be
moved from one pond to another as needed.
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
This postcard shows the salt pans circa 1906. Salt raked into small
piles is ready to be moved to storage areas or to salt sheds.
Wind-powered water wheels were heavy and could
not be moved. Kids would sometimes ride on them as
though they were riding on a carousel.
From pond No. 2, the pickle was moved to shallow
salt pans where it would begin to crystalize after 15 to
20 days. It was ready to rake after another 20 to 25 days.
Toothed wooden rakes were used to break up the salt
crystals and rake them into small piles.
Salt raked into piles next to the salt pans would then
be loaded on donkey carts or wheelbarrows and moved
to outdoor storage areas near the beach or to salt sheds.
The next issue of the Astrolabe will continue the
story of the salt industry on the Turks & Caicos Islands. a
Thanks to Nigel Sadler of Sands of Time Consultancy for
providing information on the Royal Regulations of 1767.
Jeff Dodge spent a year at the Naval Base on Grand Turk
in 1966. He returned in the 1990s with his wife for a
diving vacation. A visit to the Museum led by Brian Riggs,
spurred his interest in collecting early picture postcards
of the Turks and Caicos Islands.
72 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
These historic images are among few available of the bonefishing
greats of South Caicos in the early 1960s.
At left and top: Julius “Goo” Jennings in his boat and bringing home
the catch.
Bottom right: Stanley Jennings at work.
Kings of Bonefishing
Remembering the Jennings brothers.
Story & Photos Courtesy Dr. Carlton Mills
In the early 1960s, the only fishing plant in the Turks & Caicos was in South Caicos. This attracted fishermen
from throughout the Islands who came over to improve their livelihood. Many of them stayed on
the fishing bank for several days diving or hooking conch which was sold to the local plant or sold in
Haiti. Conch Ground Bay was the fishing hub. It was also the home to some of South Caicos’ greats—the
Jennings brothers. They were Benjamin (Banner), Felix (Par Fee), Julius (Par Julius also known as Big Man)
and Oswald (Sam).
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 73

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Banner had two sons—Bruce and Willis. Par Julius also
had two sons Julius (Jr.) who was affectionately known
as “Goo” and George. The “Supreme Leader” of the pack
was Banner. These men were rated as the “best” bonefish
haulers on the island.
Banner could also be described as the patriarch of
the family. He was of firm stature—towering to almost six
feet in height and weighing close to two hundred pounds
or more. He was very quiet and easy-going. His passion
and desire was bonefishing. He was also a family man
who encouraged his sons to also get into fishing. His
wife Helen was the traditional housewife whose passion
was baking bread for sale. This went hand in hand with
the local culture—South Caicos people loved their fried
bonefish and fresh-baked bread on a Saturday afternoon.
Banner provided the fish and Helen the bread—voted as
being some of the best in South Caicos at the time.
Felix (Par Fee) was the most talkative of the brothers.
It was said that you could hear his mouth before you
saw him coming. He seemed to have developed a spinal
problem, as he walked bent over with both hands usually
clasped behind his back. He was an ardent Methodist who
hardly missed a Sunday service, usually sharply dressed
in his black suit. Par Fee was a straightforward man. He
told it like it was fearing no man despite his condition. He
“called a spade a spade.” You basically knew where you
stood with him.
Oswald (Sam) was very quiet but with a terrifying tone
of voice. He was also firm. Sam invested his earnings from
fishing into a bar and nightclub. This was a popular spot
especially on weekends. During the annual South Caicos
Regatta, he would bring in a band from The Bahamas to
entertain the public. Sam and his wife Helene also had a
small grocery store selling food items and dry goods to
the community.
Sam was strict. No children were allowed around his
establishment. He would also personally escort drunks
off his property if they misbehaved. People generally
feared Sam. He was one of the few persons in South
Caicos at the time known to be in possession of a firearm.
As boys, we believed that “If you mess with Sam, he will
shoot you.” At times, he was seen hunting flamingos in
the ponds with his gun. This reinforced our belief that he
wasn’t a guy you would want to mess with.
Julius (Big Man or Par Julius), was also huge in statue.
He stammered a lot. Like the other brothers, he was a
Oswald (Sam) Jennings invested his earnings from fishing into a bar
and nightclub, along with a small grocery store.
regular at the Methodist Church. Despite his massive physique,
he was a very quiet and loving man, one of the
most pleasant guys you would ever meet. He was one
who seemed not to keep many friends outside of his family
circle. His son Julius (Jr.) was also an integral part of
the fishing group.
One of the fascinating things about this exceptional
family was that they hauled together. They worked as a
unit—a team. They possessed exceptional skills and talent
like no other, putting them in a class by themselves.
The Jennings brothers were recognized as “Kings.” They
were indeed kings of a very important industry.
Fish was the main diet of the people in South Caicos.
Since there was little opportunity at the time to acquire
other forms of meat (or relish as it was called), the South
Caicos community was dependent on the Jennings brothers
for their catch. Bonefish was a delicacy. Most people
who came to South Caicos in those days hardly left without
feasting on bonefish or taking supplies with them.
There were certain important strategies that had
74 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
to be applied if one was to have a successful hauling
day. First, it required that the fishermen be extremely
quiet. Bonefish move in schools. The slightest movement
or noise result in an unproductive day as the fish will
speed away. Bonefish are very sensitive and Banner knew
this. Verbal communication was banned during hauling.
Sign language was the main form of communication. The
fishermen had to understand this. Their catch depended
largely on their ability to master sign language.
The net was stretched out as wide as possible with a
man holding each end. The others remained in the boat
as one man steered it towards the fish, chasing them in
the direction of the net. Both men holding the net would
then close in on the fish. They would all join in on pulling
the net in the boat full of bonefish. Following this, they
would clear the net and prepare for their journey home.
In the early days they did not have the luxury of a boat
engine. They either had to set or skull the boat in order
to get back to Conch Ground Bay which was usually not
very far away. When they arrived, the boat was docked.
Before being sold, the fish was shared. The owner of the
boat (who was usually Banner) received two shares—his
and the other for the boat. Finally, it was time to sell.
Consumers were free to purchase bonefish from any of
the fishermen.
As little boys, we would eagerly await the arrival of
the bonefish haulers. It was thrilling to watch the boat
come in loaded with fish. We longed for the days when
we could participate in this fascinating venture.
The Jennings brothers took their sales seriously. Pa
Fee would be talking at the top of his voice in an aggressive
tone which was a clear indication that there was
“no credit.” Crowds of eager men descended on Conch
Ground Bay to purchase bonefish. This was usually not an
activity for women. Saturday afternoons in South Caicos
became a spectacular occasion for male bonding.
As there was no widespread electricity in South Caicos
at the time, freezing fish was not possible. The Jennings
brothers therefore mastered the skill of preserving their
fish that was not sold. This was done by a process called
“corning.” They spread salt from the local salt ponds over
the fish after they were sliced down the middle. The fish
were then hung over racks. So for days after the catch,
folks could still purchase fish.
The Jennings brothers made a major contribution to
South Caicos. They made bonefish hauling a respected
and admirable profession. Their names will always be
synonymous with fishing as they made bonefishing an
integral part of the local culture. They will always be
regarded as fishing icons. Their legacy continues as
Banner’s son Willis and his grandboys Dave (Big Cow) and
Gilbert (Snuka) continue to follow the family’s tradition.
One can still purchase bonefish from these boys although
not in as large quantities as before. Helen passed on her
baking skills to her daughter Jacklyn, whose popular
bread gained the pet name “Mama’s Bread.”
The baking tradition entered its third generation as
Nita, Jacklyn’s daughter, continues to bake bread for
sale. Goo also had three sons who were all involved in
bonefishing—Stanley, Hudson, and Nelson. Although
Hudson and Nelson are deceased, Stanley continued
the tradition until he retired. Goo also formed a band,
“Gillette and His Blades” (also called “Goo and the Yellow
Teeth Movement”.) The group would play regularly at the
Admiral’s Arms Hotel entertaining guests.
The Jennings brothers made time to be involved in
community and church life. They were also active in the
local Odd Fellows Lodge and the Benevolent Association.
Felix Jennings “Par Fee” made sure buyers knew there was NO CREDIT
when it came to bonefish.
In the afternoons after a day in the boat, they could be
seen mingling with the men on Conch Ground Bay, having
a few drinks and discussing events of the day.
Benjamin, Felix, Julius (Sr.), Oswald and Julius (Jr.) are
all deceased. They were instrumental in setting the stage
for the growth and development of small businesses
in South Caicos stemming from fishing. The island witnessed
the expansion in this industry to include conch,
scalefish, and lobster because of the contribution made
by the Jennings brothers.
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 75

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Being men of great physical stature, they utilized
their strength as needed by assisting people to move their
wooden houses from one location to another. During this
event, they were assisted by their cousin Lambert Wilson
(Par Lumbie) and Robert and David Adams. During this
occasion, everyone would join in and sing the popular
song “Gal le we go down.” This singing made the task
lighter. They were also involved in launching big boats in
South Caicos.
As Dave (Big Cow) and Gilbert (Snuka) get older,
there is concern as to the future of bonefishing in South
Caicos. Bonefishing is becoming more of a sports fishing
adventure—catch and release rather than for consumption.
The concern is whether someone will take the baton
from these grandsons so that bonefishing will remain an
integral part of the South Caicos culture.
Undoubtedly, South Caicos has produced some of the
country’s greatest fishermen. Because of this, the island
has earned the distinction of being called the “Fishing
Capital of the Turks & Caicos Islands.” a
Museum Matters
GRAND TURK
Return of cruise ships
Cruise ships returned to Grand Turk on December 13,
2021. We are pleased to have the guests return to visit
and learn about Turks & Caicos history and culture. A
very special thank you to visitors who stay in the hotels
and vacation rental homes. Their continued support
both now and when the ships were suspended helped
keep us open during the pandemic restrictions. a
Snip, snip
Grand Turk will once again be hosting a spay and neuter
clinic from April 22 to 29. This project benefits the
entire community, and we are proud to be able to assist
and host this much needed service. a
PROVIDENCIALES
The work and improvements to the Heritage Garden continue.
We are currently working with The Strand Turks
& Caicos development to safely remove and replant any
vegetation that would have otherwise been destroyed in
the process of construction. Over 20 species of plants
have been identified and we hope to rescue as many as
possible in the Heritage Garden. a
Current Days & Hours of Operation:
• Grand Turk—Open Monday to Friday; 9 AM to 1 PM.
The days a ship arrives on or after 11 AM, we will open
1 hour after arrival.
Located in historic Guinep House on Front Street, this
location includes exhibits on the Salt Industry, Molasses
Reef Wreck, Lucayans, John Glenn Landing and more.
The Heritage Garden’s new clearing includes West Indian Mahogany,
Silver and Green Buttonwood, Gumbo Limbo and Palmettos.
• Providenciales—Open Tuesday and Thursday; 10 AM
to 2 PM. Also open the first and third Saturday of each
month; 10 AM to 2 PM.
Located in The Village at Grace Bay, this location
includes a Historical Timeline that gives an overview of
the most important dates in the history of the Turks &
Caicos Islands. Our residents have descended from a
vast array of peoples, and an incredibly rich history.
Additional Exhibits—Slave ship Trouvadore, Molasses
Reef Wreck Artifacts, Sapodilla Hill Rock Carvings. Tour
the Heritage House, which is a historically correct recreation
of a typical 1800s Caicos dwelling, and the
Heritage Garden.
Days and times of operation are subject to change so
please check our website or Facebook page for updated
information. a
www.tcmuseum.org• info@tcmuseum.org
(649) 247-2160
MARJORIE SADLER
76 www.timespub.tc

about the Islands
Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps of the Turks & Caicos Islands, The
Bahamas and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout the Islands. Visit www.amnautical.com.
Where we are
The Turks & Caicos Islands lie some 575 miles southeast
of Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time —
with The Bahamas about 30 miles to the northwest and
the Dominican Republic some 100 miles to the southeast.
The country consists of two island groups separated
by the 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To the west are
the Caicos Islands: West Caicos, Providenciales, North
Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos and South Caicos. To
the east are the Turks Islands: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.
The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles of land
area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s
population is approximately 43,000.
Getting here
There are international airports on Grand Turk,
Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic airports
on all of the islands except East Caicos.
As of September 1, 2021, all visitors ages 16 and
above must be fully vaccinated and provide a negative
PCR or antigen COVID-19 test taken within three days
of travel. (Children under the age of 10 are not required
to be tested.) Additionally, travellers must have medical/
travel insurance that covers medevac, a completed health
screening questionnaire and certification that they have
read and agreed to the privacy policy document. These
requirements must be uploaded to the TCI Assured portal,
which is available at www.turksandcaicostourism.
com, in advance of their arrival.
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 77

The TCI has expanded COVID-19 testing capacity in
response to testing requirements implemented for travellers
entering the United States and Canada. Many resorts
offer on-site testing, along with numerous local health
practitioners.
Language
English.
Time zone
Eastern Standard Time (EST)/Daylight Savings Time
observed.
Currency
The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks
& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.
dollars are widely accepted and other currency can be
changed at local banks. American Express, VISA and
MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.
Climate
The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The
hottest months are September and October, when the
temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,
the consistent easterly trade winds temper the heat and
keep life comfortable.
Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for
daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on
some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing
and a sunhat and use waterproof sunscreen when out
in the tropical sun.
Entry requirements
Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.
Customs formalities
Visitors may bring in duty free for their own use one carton
of cigarettes or cigars, one bottle of liquor or wine,
and some perfume. The importation of all firearms including
those charged with compressed air without prior
approval in writing from the Commissioner of Police is
strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled
drugs and pornography are also illegal.
Returning residents may bring in $400 worth of
merchandise per person duty free. A duty of 10% to
60% is charged on most imported goods along with a
7% customs processing fee and forms a major source of
government revenue.
Transportation
A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting
vehicles. A government tax of 12% is levied on all
rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on the
left-hand side of the road, with traffic flow controlled by
round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and
drive! Taxis and community cabs are abundant throughout
the Islands and many resorts offer shuttle service
between popular visitor areas. Scooter, motorcycle and
bicycle rentals are also available.
Telecommunications
FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband
Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network,
including pre- and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts
and some stores and restaurants offer wireless Internet
connections. Digicel operates mobile networks, with
a full suite of LTE 4G service. FLOW is the local carrier
for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and
Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets
and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can
arrange international roaming.
Electricity
FortisTCI supplies electricity at a frequency of 60HZ,
and either single phase or three phase at one of three
standard voltages for residential or commercial service.
FortisTCI continues to invest in a robust and resilient grid
to ensure the highest level of reliability to customers. The
company is integrating renewable energy into its grid and
provides options for customers to participate in two solar
energy programs.
Departure tax
US $60. It is typically included in your airline ticket cost.
Courier service
Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with offices on
Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is
limited to incoming delivery.
Postal service
The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales are
located downtown on Airport Road. In Grand Turk, the
Post Office and Philatelic Bureau are on Church Folly. The
Islands are known for their colorful stamp issues.
78 www.timespub.tc

Media
Multi-channel satellite television is received from the U.S.
and Canada and transmitted via cable or over the air.
Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island
EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television offers 75 digitally
transmitted television stations, along with local news
and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number of
local radio stations, magazines and newspapers.
Medical services
There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are
large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.
Both hospitals offer a full range of services including:
24/7 emergency room, operating theaters, diagnostic
imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,
physiotherapy and dentistry.
In addition, several general practitioners operate in
the country, and there is a recompression chamber, along
with a number of private pharmacies.
Immigration
A resident’s permit is required to live in the Islands. A
work permit and business license are also required to
work and/or establish a business. These are generally
granted to those offering skills, experience and qualifications
not widely available on the Islands. Priority is given
to enterprises that will provide employment and training
for T&C Islanders.
Government/Legal system
TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed
Governor, HE Nigel John Dakin. He presides over an executive
council formed by the elected local government.
Hon. Charles Washington Misick is the country’s premier,
leading a majority Progressive National Party (PNP) House
of Assembly.
The legal system is based upon English Common
Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief
Magistrate,and Deputy Magistrates. Judges of the Court
of Appeal visit the Islands twice a year and there is a final
Right of Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.
Taxes
There are currently no direct taxes on either income
or capital for individuals or companies. There are no
exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs
duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,
restaurants, vehicle rentals, other services and gasoline,
as well as business license fees and departure taxes.
Times of the Islands Spring 2022 79

Economy
Historically, TCI’s economy relied on the export of salt.
Currently, tourism, the offshore finance industry and fishing
generate the most private sector income. The Islands’
main exports are lobster and conch. Practically all consumer
goods and foodstuffs are imported.
The Turks & Caicos Islands are recognised as an
important offshore financial centre, offering services
such as company formation, offshore insurance, banking,
trusts, limited partnerships and limited life companies.
The Financial Services Commission regulates the industry
and spearheads the development of offshore legislation.
People
Citizens of the Turks & Caicos Islands are termed
“Belongers” and are primarily descendants of African
slaves who were brought to the Islands to work in the
salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large
expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,
Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,
Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians and Filipinos.
Churches
Churches are the center of community life and there
are many faiths represented in the Islands including:
Adventist, Anglican, Assembly of God, Baha’i, Baptist,
Catholic, Church of God, Episcopal, Jehovah’s Witnesses,
Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.
Pets
Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary
health certificate, vaccination certificate and lab test
results submitted at port of entry to obtain clearance
from the TCI Department of Agriculture.
National symbols
The National Bird is the Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).
The National Plant is Island heather (Limonium
bahamense) found nowhere else in the world. The
National Tree is the Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.
bahamensis). The National Costume consists of white cotton
dresses tied at the waist for women and simple shirts
and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing
the various islands are displayed on the sleeves,
sashes and hat bands. The National Song is “This Land
of Ours” by the late Rev. E.C. Howell. Peas and Hominy
(Grits) with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.
Going green
TCI Waste Disposal Services currently offers recycling
services through weekly collection of recyclable aluminum,
glass and plastic. Single-use plastic bags have been
banned country-wide as of May 1, 2019. There is also a
ban on importation of plastic straws and some polystyrene
products, including cups and plates.
Recreation
Sporting activities are centered around the water. Visitors
can choose from deep-sea, reef or bonefishing, sailing,
glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,
waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling, scuba
diving, snuba, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding,
mermaid encounters and beachcombing. Pristine reefs,
abundant marine life and excellent visibility make TCI
a world-class diving destination. Whale and dolphin
encounters are possible, especially during the winter/
spring months.
Tennis and golf—there is an 18 hole championship
course on Providenciales—are also popular.
80 www.timespub.tc

The Islands are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can
enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in
33 national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries and areas
of historical interest. The National Trust provides trail
guides to several hiking trails, as well as guided tours of
major historical sites. Birdwatching is superb, and there
is a guided trail on Grand Turk.
There is an excellent national museum on Grand
Turk, with an auxillary branch on Providenciales that
includes the Caicos Heritage House. A scheduled ferry
and a selection of tour operators make it easy to take day
trips to the outer islands.
Other land-based activities include bicycling, horseback
riding and football (soccer). Personal trainers are
available to motivate you, working out of several fitness
centres. You will also find a variety of spa and body treatment
services.
Nightlife includes local bands playing island music
at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There are
two casinos on Providenciales, along with many electronic
gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!
Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,
sports and beachwear and locally made handicrafts,
including straw work, conch crafts and handmade beach
jewellery. Duty free outlets sell liquor, jewellery, watches,
subscription form
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ISLANDS
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS
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$28 U.S. addresses/$32 non-U.S. addresses
Food for Thought provides free daily
breakfast to government school students.
A donation of $300 will provide breakfast
to one child for a whole school year.
To donate or learn more please
email info@foodforthoughttci.com
or visit foodforthoughttci.com
Food for Thought Foundation Inc. (NP #102)
perfume, leather goods, crystal, china, cameras, electronics,
brand-name clothing and accessories, along with
Cuban cigars. a
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Times of the Islands Spring 2022 81

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82 www.timespub.tc

WE ARE LEADING THE CHANGE
FOR A NEW ENERGY FUTURE
Our executive team: (L-r) Senior Vice President of Operations Devon Cox; Vice President of Corporate
Services and CFO Aisha Laporte; President and CEO Ruth Forbes; Vice President of Grand Turk and
Sister Island Operations Allan Robinson; Vice President of Innovation, Technology and Strategic Planning
Rachell Roullet and Vice President of Engineering and Energy Production and Delivery Don Forsyth
The energy landscape is changing.
And at FortisTCI, we are leading the transition to cleaner energy with
innovative solutions, and the highest level of service to customers.
With sustainability as a guiding principle, we are strategically investing
in new technologies, people and processes to deliver least-cost, reliable,
resilient and sustainable energy to keep the Turks and Caicos Islands
economy moving forward.
At FortisTCI, we are powered by a team of energy experts, who are proud
to serve as your energy partners.
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