AA Traveller Winter 2022

traveller
AUTOMOBILE ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA
WINTER 2022 | AA.CO.ZA
LET’S
TRAVEL!
+
9 WINTER
DESTINATIONS
16 PILGRIM ROUTES
IN EUROPE
17 BACKPACKS FOR
THEOFFICE OR
THEOUTDOORS
CAN
MARION’S
BIRDSBE
SAVED FROM
AMOUSE
PLAGUE?
SOARING
FUEL PRICES
WHAT CAN
BE DONE?
YOUR SOULYEARNSFOR THE
RICHTERSVELD
SENSATIONAL
SOUP
RECIPES
GLITTERING
22036
6 009879 964868
R70
(incl VAT)
Other countries
N$70
THE
CITY OF
GOLD’S
TOP
SPOTS

From the editor
EDITOR
Gerda Engelbrecht
gerda.engelbrecht@media24.com
ARTDIRECTOR
Sally Cronjé
ASSISTANTEDITOR
Petro-Anne Vlok
REPRODUCTION
Dewald Spies
PRODUCTION
Jacques duPlooy
Kurt Ohlson
CEO:MEDIA24
Ishmet Davidson
CEO: PRINTMEDIA
Minette Ferreira
GM:LIFESTYLE
Nerisa Coetzee
GROWTH MANAGER
Lise Coetsee
FINANCE MANAGER
Jameelah Conway
CIRCULATION MANAGER
Armand Kasselman
BUSINESSMANAGER –SALES
Danie Nell
danie.nell@media24.com
GENERAL ENQUIRIES
Yumna Tofey
yumna.tofey@media24.com
COVERIMAGE
GETTYIMAGES/GALLOIMAGES
The priest
with thetin of
yellow paint
Areyou familiar with thename Elias Valina?Probably
not. Butyou musthave heardofthe Camino de Santiago
(pg. 46)? In the 1980s, when this pilgrimageroute was
in dangerofbeing relegatedtothe historybooks,
theSpanish priest EliasValinaput in thelegwork and
revitalisedinterestinthe Camino.Father Eliaswas the
priest in O’Cebreiro –asmall town of about60people
locatedatthe topofamountaininGalicia –and he
realisedthatthe Camino couldbethe town’s economic
lifeline.Hesuggested thatthe routeshouldbemarkedmoreclearly.Hegot his hands on a
tinofyellowpaint somewhereintown, jumpedinhis oldDeuxChevaux jalopy and travelled
throughoutSpain, usinghis tinofpaint to drawyellowarrowsatall thecrossingand turnoffs.
Whoknows,atthe time his compatriotsmight have thoughtthatthe priest wasalittle bit
dotty, butthe yellow arrowsplayedasignificantroleinbreathing newlifeintothis pilgrim route
thatdates back to theMiddleAges. Thearrows, whichare nowmaintainedbyeachCamino
association in varioustowns,have become an important elementofthe journey,anintegral
partofthe experienceand apowerful symbol thatreminds youtostaythe course.According
to Santiago de Compostela Pilgrim’s ReceptionOffice, whichkeeps recordsofthose whohave
completed thejourney,atotal of 2411 pilgrims received certificates in 1986. On Sunday,24
April 2022,onone dayalone,1428 pilgrimsreceivedtheircertificates at thesame office.
Asmall bustofFather Eliaswas erectedinO’Cebreiro’s church.Julie Gianelloni writes in
Savoring the Camino de Santiago:“Whatapitythatthis modern-day saint, wholaunchedthis
massivere-awakeningthathas broughtsomuch joyand adventureand spiritualgrowth to so
many, is notmorerecognisedand praisedand takenasamodel.Ifacan of yellow paint can
turn atrickle into atorrent,whatcould we eachdoinour ownlives to turn thingsaround, to
bringbackthe best of thepastand makeitworkintoday’s world?”
Shortly before goingtopress,the WorldTraveland TourismCouncil wroteinareport that
thetraveland tourism industryisexpectedtocreate126 millionnew jobsinthe next decade.
In addition, this industrywillcontributethe most to economic recovery in the post-Covid-19
world. Oneout of everythree newjobscreated will be in the tourism industry.The council,
whichrepresents privatetourism establishmentsworldwide,predicts thatthe industrycould
recovertopre-Covid levels (2019) in 2023. Before theend of 2022,tourism will grow by 43,7%,
making up 8,5% of theworld's totalGDP.
Maybeit'stimetoget your hands on atin of yellow paint.You neverknow–alittlebit of
paint could“turn atrickle into atorrent”. Theworld needsit.
3
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Traveller will be
distributed in the
first week of
September
2022.
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

46
58
14
Contents
22
TheMarabi Club
in Johannesburg
3 Gerdasays
Sometimes all you need
to make adifference is
atin of yellow paint
7 Willemsays
We want more departments
like this, please
8 Layton says
Don’t traffic departments get
load shedding schedules?
9 Special report
Blue light brigades
must heed road rules
10 Fuel prices
Why did the price shoot
up, and what can motorist
do to soften the blow?
TRAVEL
14 TheRichtersveld
Reaching this national park
is an adventure initself –and
then serene peace and quiet
awaits you, says Evan Naudé
22 TheCityofGoldisajewel
With so many restaurants,
art galleries and markets
to explore, Joburg isa
top tourist destination
30 Hardliquorinthe
SouthernCape
At Vermaaklikheid and
Herbertsdale, farmers still
distil witblits and karrie
35 Cosy in wintertime
Here are nine top
destinations for a
chilly weekend
40 Thepineappletown
Bathurst in the Eastern
Cape is well worth avisit
46 TheCamino de ... what?
Explore the different
pilgrimage routes inEurope
LIFESTYLE
52 Mouse plagueon
MarionIsland
Aproject is in the works
to help protect the birds
on this research island
55 Entrepreneurs taking
on householdchores
Meet Aisha Pandor
from SweepSouth,
the app that wants to
make your life easier
58 Winterwarmers
Here are 11recipes
for delicious,
nourishing soups
64 Books
Meet Sally Andrew, the
woman behind the Tannie
Maria murder mysteries
66 Pack it in
The best backpacks
for the office, day hikes
and epic journeys
MOTORING
70 More powertoyou
We look at which
electric cars are
making their local
debut this year –but
is SA ready for the
electric revolution?
75 FirstImpressions
We test drive the Kia
Sorento, Hyundai
Staria Multicab, Cherry
Tiggo 4,VWPolo
en Toyota Rumion
80 Puzzles
Are you clever enough
for our crossword,
sudokus and quiz?
83 Last word
The best answer to
the question: “How
was your holiday?”
AA Traveller | WINTER 2022

TheAAatyourservice
ACCREDITED
SALESAGENTS
GETIN
TOUCH
To update your
AA membershipdetails,
phone0861000 234,
send an emailto
aasa@aasa.co.za or
visitaa.co.za.
THEAAISONCALL24/7!
CALL 0861 000234
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041368 6452
HarveyWorld Travel,EastLondon:
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GAUTENG
Travel Experience, Menlyn:
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Travel Experience, Benmore:
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Travel Experience,ParkMeadows:
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AA Cresta:
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Travel Experience,Boksburg:
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Travel Experience,Centurion:
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Voetspore4×4,MegaWorld:
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AA Foreign Travel,Kyalami:
011799 1042
6
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WITH AA CONNECTED CAR
AA Connected Car is acombination
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to effectively monitor driving
behaviour and vehicle performance.
Asmall device is fitted toyour
vehicle inminutes, and the software
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But the most important feature
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Formoreinformation, call us on
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KWAZULU-NATAL
Travel Experience,Musgrave:
031201 5244
Travel Experience,LaLucia:
031572 7852
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039315 6330
MPUMALANGA
Dana Travel Agency,Nelspruit:
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Square: 021683 1410
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044874 6930
AA Traveller | WINTER 2022

Letterfromthe AA CEO
Credit whereit’sdue –
butmoreofthis pleaseRTMC
Afew weeksago,when Iarrivedhomeafter a
coffeerun,myheartsank as Irealisedthatmy
wallet wasmissing.Irushed back to the coffee
shop,but therewas no wallet in sight, andI
realised it wasgonefor good.
To minimisethe risk of fraud, Iimmediately
cancelledmybank cards. Luckily, these days
bankingappsare so advancedthatloggingon
andcancellingyour cardstakes no timeatall.
Unfortunately,myIDand driver’slicense
were in my wallet as well.And since Idid not
receiveacall or messagefor the safe return
my wallet (I wouldhavebeenmorethan
happytopay arewardasgratitude,but it was
notmeanttobe),Iwasleftwiththe daunting
prospect of replacingthese –and based on
what Iknewofthe renewals andreplacement
process, this leftmeconcerned.
I’mfortunate enough to live closetobothof
thenewly establishedand revamped Driving
LicenceTesting Centres (DLTCs)ofthe Road
TrafficManagementCorporation (RTMC) in
WaterfallPark in Midrandand EcoPark in
IT’S ALEVEL OF SERVICEWEDESERVE,
ANDTHROUGHTHESE CENTRES,
GOVERNMENT HASSHOWN IT CAN BE
EFFICIENTAND PROFESSIONAL (AND
FRIENDLY). MORE OF THIS PLEASE.
Centurion,soItook achance andvisited the
EcoPark centre.The AA hasbeencriticalof
theRTMCand DLTCsfor sometime, primarily
becausetheydonot offer the levelofservice
we believeSouth Africans areentitledto, so
Ididn’texpectmuch, andwas preparedfor a
long wait to be helped.
However, my experiencewas wonderful.
At the EcoPark CentreIwaswarmly greeted
by an official at the door andassistedalong
everystepofmyapplication processfor a
temporarylicence. At onepoint,asenior
member of the NationalTraffic Police,who
wassupervising proceedings,asked if I
needed help with anything else,and Itold
himIstruggledtomakeanonlinebooking
forarenewalofmylicence. He called some
people over, andtheyhelpedmemakeit.
Iwalkedout with atemporary licence
andanappointmentfor the renewalofmy
card.The wholeprocess lasted less than 30
minutes. Ineed to pointout that no-one knew
whoIwas,and it appeared that everyone at
the centre wastreated the same wayIwas.
Ileftthe DLTC with mixed feelings.
On the one hand,Ihad atotally amazing
experiencewithgovernment, encountered
professional, efficientand friendly people,and
Ileftfeeling that dealingwithmyissues was
theirpriority.Onthe other hand,Ireflected on
the experiencesofthousandsofother South
Africans whodon’t getthislevel of service,
whobattlewithrude,inefficient government
employees,and whoaren’tapriority.
Igivecredittothe RTMC andthe
DepartmentofTransport forgetting to this
point, andfor genuinelymakingthisapositive
experience. Imustquestion,though,why this
can’tbereplicatedinevery DLTC and, in fact,
at everygovernment office,inthe country. It’s
alevel of service we deserve, andthrough
these centres, governmenthas shownitcan
be efficientand professional(andfriendly).
More of this please.
My positive moodwas lifted further when I
read through the draftstories forthismonth’s
incredibleedition of AA Traveller.Among
them is afeature on Johannesburgasatravel
destination,astory on alocal entrepreneur
whodeveloped an appfor domestic
cleaning andhomeservicesand apiece on
the wonderfulRichtersveld, abucket-list
destination foranyonewitha4x4.
We also encourageyou to visitSouth Africa
this winterbyexploring nine destinations
(one perprovince)and rechargingyour
batteriesatoneofthe AA’s QualityAssured
accommodationvenues.Weliveinatruly
amazingcountry, andIstrongly urge youto
exploreand experienceasmuchofitas you
can–youwon’t regret it.
Winter is upon us,and it’s going to geta
little colder in the next couple of months.
Enjoythe chill, stay positive andget outthere.
Untilnexttime,
Willem Groenewald
CEO|AASA
7
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

Opinion
Government should heed its
ownadviceonroadsafety
BY LAYTON BEARD, HEAD:PUBLICAFFAIRS &INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS, AA SOUTHAFRICA
8
OnaMondaymorningacoupleofweeks
ago, Iwas sittinginheavilycongested
trafficonmyway to theAA’soffice
in Midrand. Thebumper-to-bumper
trafficwas backed-upfor about three
blocks andajourney that normally takes25minutes
wasalready stretchingpastanhour. Trafficlightson
this legofmyjourney wereout duetoEskom’s rolling
blackoutsand amajor intersection on theway was
completely log-jammed.
Sadly, this is notunusual,and whilewedon’t want
to accept that these things arehappening, we must
toleratethem. What concernedmewas thelackof
trafficlaw enforcementtodealwiththe inevitable
congestionand thesubsequentbuild-upofanger
amongstdrivers.
TheintersectionI’m referringtoisone of thebusiest
in theeastofPretoriaand is used by tens of thousands
of motoristsdaily,particularlyduringpeaktimes. But
therewas notone trafficofficialinsight.Not one.
Whilemostofusinthis dire situationstuck it out
andfollowed therules therewerethose idiotswho
droveintooncoming trafficoronthe sidewalks to
avoidthe build-up. And, as Isat in my cocoon of steel,
theinevitablehappened: threevehiclescollidedright
in themiddleofthe intersection.Thankfully, no-one
wasinjured, butthe ensuingchaos just addedmore
confusion –and wasted time –tothe situation.
Once Icleared themadness,Ibegantowonderwhy
this situationwas even allowed to happen in thefirst
place. Don’ttraffic departments getnotifications of
imminentblackouts? Aren’t trafficofficials meantto
be on hand to assist motorists,especiallyinsituations
such as this?And critically,why wasthis happening
afterthe same thinghad happenedonWednesday the
previousweekwhenthe lights at thesameintersection
werealsoout?
Then somethinghappenedthatmademehopping
mad. As Iwas drivingalong theN1Southtowards
Johannesburg,Inoticedtwo MetroPoliceDepartment
vehicles, with twooccupants in each,parkedonthe side
of theroad. I’mnot sure what exactlytheyweredoing
butbythe looksofit, they weren’t doingmuchexcept
sittinginparkedvehiclesonthe side of theroad.
In 2019,areportwas issued by theTraffic Law
Enforcement Review Committee,acommittee
establishedbythe previousMinisterofTransportto
review,well, trafficlaw enforcement in SouthAfrica.
Amongstits recommendations, thecommitteesaid
SouthAfricaneedsdouble theamountoftraffic law
enforcersthanwhatwecurrently have (toaround
50 000 by 2030). Unfortunately, this isnot happening,
andamicrocosmofthe effectsofnot having adequately
staffedtraffic lawenforcementdepartments playsout
in scenarioslikethe oneIdescribed, andworse.
Thereare many thousandsofgoodmen andwomen
whoworkintraffic departments across ourcountry
andwho performtheir workdiligently andwith
honour everyday,and they must be givencreditfor the
excellentwork they do.
Butmuchofthe good work they do is being overshadowed
by thelackofpropertraffic policing,and
it shows. SouthAfricaremains acountry with one
of theworst road safety recordsintheworld,and
ourannualroadfatalitiesstaythe same,orincrease,
instead of decrease.
Roadsafetyisabig problem in SouthAfrica, and
road fatalities cost oureconomy closeonR165billion
annually –money that should be used forbetterand
more productive initiatives. Roadsafetyrequires
acollectiveeffortfromevery road user (motorists,
pedestrians, motorcyclists) andeverytraffic law
enforcer to improve. Withoutaconcerted effort by
governmenttoensureproperroadsafetyour situation
simply won’t change.
Anditstartsateveryintersectionineverycityand
town in SouthAfrica, andgovernmentshouldheed its
ownadviceand do somethingnow to deal with it.
Layton
Follow Layton on
Twitter@LaytonBeard
Main photo:Getty Images/GalloImages
AA Traveller | WINTER 2022

Special report
Blue light brigades:
AroadsafetythreatinSA
If thePresidentialProtectionUnit, informallyknown as the blue
lightbrigades,are allowedtocontinueoperating as theydonow –
uncheckedand out ofcontrol –governmenthas no moralplace to
speak aboutthe national road safety crisis in SouthAfrica,saysthe AA.
Presidential Protection
Unit convoys transporting
politicians onthe country’s
roads –especially on
major highways –continue
to pose aroad safety threat for all
motorists, and their operation should
be reviewed. The AA says it will
communicate with the Ministers of
Police and Transport to have such
areview ofthe so-called blue light
brigades instituted urgently.
“Blue light brigades are, simply
put, athreat toother drivers. There is
growing anecdotal evidence that PPU
drivers are aggressive toother road
users, that they speed way above
the applicable speed limits, that they
swerve dangerously inand out of
traffic and that they disrespect other
road users. But the blame isnot only
theirs; their passengers are as much to
blame, if not more so, than they are,”
says the AA.
Section 58(3) of the National Road
Traffic Act (NRTA) permits drivers of
emergency vehicles, such as traffic
officers and duly authorised drivers,
as well as particularly a“person
appointed interms of the South
African Police Service Act who drives
avehicle in the carrying out of his or
her duties”, todisregard the directions
of aroad traffic sign displayed inthe
prescribed manner. Regulation 176 of
the NRTA further states that drivers
on the road are supposed togive
an absolute right of way toavehicle
sounding adevice orbell ordisplaying
an identification lamp.
Road usersshouldnot
be bullied offthe road
or to be forced to give
rightofwaywhenitis
not safe to do so.
The AApoints out that any driver
who drives recklessly oriscareless
about the safety of other users on
the road can beheld liable for gross
negligence where they pose a
threat to property or another person,
whether they were driving apolitician,
delegate, VIP oracar fitted with ablue
light, just like any other road user.
“Obviously we appreciate that this
regulation is intended to deal with
emergencies and to give authorities
the road space they need to deal with
these. But to invoke this legislation to
transport VIPs at high speeds, with
atotal disregard oftraffic laws, isnot
only unacceptable, it’s dangerous.
Road users should not be bullied off
the road or to be forced to give right
of way when it is not safe todoso. The
law protects the safety of the road
user first,” says the AA.
The association says such behaviour
negates any attempts by government
to address the country’s high annual
road death numbers. It notes that if
blue light brigades are allowed to
continue operating asthey donow
–unchecked and out of control –
government has no moral place to
speak about the national road safety
crisis in South Africa.
“If politicians –and members of the
Cabinet –speak onroad safety, and
the need to deal effectively with the
carnage on the country’s roads, they
must also obey the rules and instruct
their drivers to do likewise. When blue
light brigades exceed speed limits,
and drive dangerously and recklessly
on the country’s roads, the message
is that rules don’t apply tothem, and
the safety of other road users doesn’t
matter to them,” concludes the
association.
9
Have you hadanexperiencewith ablue lightbrigade?Shareyourstory with
theAAontwitter.com/AASouthAfrica or facebook.com/AASouthAfrica
JOIN THECONVERSATIONONTWITTER:
#JoinTheMovement #SupportTheCause #AAFightingForConsumerRights

BY PETRO-ANNE VLOK
10
PAIN AT
THE PUMPS

In thenews
Withthe priceoffuelat
almost R22per litre
for95octane petrol
inland,the mere
thoughtoffilling up
atankhas motorists
breaking outinacold
sweat. Theprice of fuel
hasshotupsignificantly: unleaded 95 petrol nowcosts
R21,84 perlitre inlandcomparedtoR17,32atthe same
time last year.
Thereare several factorsthatdetermine theprice of
fuel,explainspolitical economistDrDaleMcKinley.A
majorreasonisthatthe price of brent crudeoil,which is
used to make petrol,has shot up followingthe invasion
of UkrainebyRussia,amajor oilexporter. Andasthe
Covid-19 pandemic started to wane andthe world began
to open up again, therewas reneweddemandfor oil.
TheOrganisation of thePetroleum ExportingCountries
(OPEC)has also kept oilsuppliesconstrained. “So,you
getthe picture,”Daleadds.
It’s notjustmotorists whoare impactedbythis price
increase.Whenfuelismoreexpensive,the whole
economyfeels it,saysDale. “Our economyisinintensive
care.The middle andworking classes arebarelyhanging
on,spendingmorethanhalfoftheir budgets on basics.”
Now, theknock-oneffect of therisingfuelpricesonthe
price of goods andservicesmeans that they will struggle
to enjoyeven thebasics. “People will findaway,but it’ll
be difficult.”
Directorand chiefeconomist of theEfficientGroup,
DawieRoodt,agreesthatmanySouth Africans will
struggle to cope. “Foodpricesare also rising,which
meansthatinflation will keep on rising –especiallyfor
thepoor. Canpeople‘cope’? Jip, butitwill be painful.”
Softening theblow
Governmenthas stepped in to help take theedgeoff.
During hisbudgetspeechinFebruary, finance minister
EnochGodongwanaannounced that theGeneral
Fuel Levy (GFL)and RoadAccidentFund(RAF) levy
(see sidebaron“Levies andtaxes”) would remain
unchanged. TheAAhasbeencampaigningfor this for
years,saysLaytonBeard,AAheadofpublicaffairs and
international relations. “Itwas abig winfor theAAand
consumers. It’s thefirsttimesince 1990 that theselevies
With fuelpricesatarecord
didnot increase,” he says.
high,consumersare feelingthe
AndinMarch,withglobal oilpricesskyrocketing
duetothe war, Godongwanaannounced that the
pinch. We look at thereasons
governmentwould temporarilyreducethe GFLbyR1,50
behind theprice hike and what
perlitre from 16 Apriluntil 31 May2022.
youcan do to cutbackonyour
“Obviously, theAAwelcomes thesereliefmeasures,”
says Layton.“It doesn’ttakethe pain away buthelps
fuelconsumption.
soften theblow. Yet, we believethis wasdealt with in a
short-term manner.The question remains: What will
BY PETRO-ANNE VLOK happen in June andbeyond?”
>
11
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

In thenews
Canthe governmentdomore?
Theanswer to this question is complicated. Thereare
twomainfactors that determinethe price of fuel:the
internationalprice of crudeoil perbarrel, andsecondly,
therand/dollar exchange rate.
“Whenitcomes to thefirstfactor, thereisverylittle
wiggle room,” says Layton.
However,ifthe country takessteps to improvethe
rand/dollarexchange rate,the pricewill drop.Infact,
as badasthe Aprilincreasewas,itcould have been
much worse hadthe rand notstabilisedagainstthe
dollaratthe time.
Thereare several ways governmentcan help
strengthen therand, explains Layton.“Improveinvestor
confidence,createawelcoming environmentfor
internationalinvestors,cut redtapewhenitcomes to
Levies andtaxes
GENERAL FUEL LEVY
R2,35per litre
(followingthe R1,50price reduction)
This taxgenerates around R90billion peryear. It’s
usedtofund general governmentexpenditure
programmes.Ithas been reducedtoR2,35 perlitre
untilthe next price adjustmentscheduled forJune.
international investments,createasafe environmentfor
investors, deal betterwithunemployment…In short,
create an economic climateconducive to growth.”
TheAAalsobelievesthatgovernmentshouldrelook
fuel taxesand levies,especiallythe GFLand theRAF
Levy.“Areweusing themoney generatedbythesetaxes
in theright way?”asksLayton. “There aresevereand
deep concerns aboutthe effectivenessofthe RAFasan
organisation.It’spoorlymanaged,indebtand requires
alot of intervention.And when it comestothe GFL,
issues regardingcorruption andthe misappropriation
of fundscomes into it as well.Governmentneedstolook
at theissue of thebasic fuel priceand askthemselvesif
theleviesand taxescan be betterstructured.”
It seemslikegovernmentisplanningondoing this.
In hisbudgetspeech, Godongwanasaidthatheand
GwedeMantashe, theministerofmineral resourcesand
energy,would review allthe aspectsofthe fuel price
regulation.And in his speechtoparliamentinMarch,
he stated that “a broader package of relief measures will
be explored, andtheywill come into effect afterthe
expiry of thetwo-month fuel levy reduction”.*
ROAD ACCIDENT FUND LEVY
R2,18per litre
This is used to compensate road accident victims
and contributesabout R45billion to theRAF per
year.
12
CARBONFUELLEVY
R1,53per litre
An environmental taxaimed at reducingcarbon.

ADDITIONAL SOURCES: aa.co.za;gov.co.za;news24.com;you.co.za
Images: GettyImages/GalloImages
Whilethis is astepinthe rightdirection, Layton says
it’s crucialfor governmenttoinvolve allstakeholders,
includingthe privatesector andcivil society, in these
discussions. “Whateverthe solution is,itmustbenefit
theconsumer,” he adds.
Long-termsolutions
If thewar in Ukrainecomes to an end, theprice of fuel
will come down,but oilisafiniteresource, so overthe
long term,the pricewill continue to rise,explains Dale.
We need medium- to longer-term solutions that will
addressour dependency on oil, he says.
In themediumterm, natural gas maybethe answer.
“New naturalgas deposits arecomingonlinein
northern Mozambique andAngola.Itcould lessen our
dependencyonimportedoil;it’slocal andcheaper than
oil,”Dalesays.
In thelong-term,weneedtofind ways to reduce our
dependencyonfossilfuels “Alternative energy sources
need to be scaled up drasticallyoverthe nexttwo to
three years to decrease ourrelianceonoil,” he adds.
Governmentcan also help consumersbydeveloping
reliable,safepublictransportsystems.And thebulk
of SouthAfrica’sgoods aretransportedonthe road,
whichmeans that if theprice of fuel goes up,sodoes
theprice of goods.Improving therailway systemand
transporting moregoods viatrains can help cushion
consumersfromfuelprice increases.
“Change is never easy.It’sgoing to be difficult,but
we need to lessen ourrelianceonfossilfuels.And
it’s notjustabout therisingcost–it’saquestion of
environmentalsustainability as well,” says Dale.
Butit’snot alldoomand gloom–we canchange
things.“SouthAfricareminds me of theUS’ carculture.
We would rather drivethanwalk, even if it’s just ashort
distance.But we’vegot to change.Even if it’s asmall
change like walking to thestore insteadofdriving.”
*At timeofgoing to press, government hadnot finalised the
review process or relief measures.
10 ways to save fuel
With pricesatarecord high,hereare afew tipsthatcan help you
save onfuelcosts:
1. CALCULATE YOUR FUEL
COSTS: Calculating how
muchfuelyou useper day,
weekand monthwillgiveyou
abetterperspective of your
consumption on awhole,
andit’ll help youplanand
executefuelsavingmeasures,
explains Layton Beard, the
AA’s head of public affairsand
internationalrelations.
2. CARPOOL: Thereisno
cultureofcarpoolinginSouth
Africa,sayspolitical economist
Dr Dale McKinley.“Have a
look at cars travellingonthe
highway. Often, it’s people
driving by themselves.”
Carpooling to work with
colleagues canresult in a
massivedecreaseinfuel
expenditure, he adds. Before
youstart aliftclub, checkwith
your insurerifyou haveproper
cover, warnsLayton.
3. PUBLIC TRANSPORT: “Ifit’s
available to you, andit’ssafe
andreliable, consider public
transport,”Laytonsays.
4. ENSUREYOUR CARISINA
GOOD WORKINGCONDITION:
Awell-maintainedcar that’s
regularly serviceduses
between10and 20% less fuel
compared to one that’s not,
accordingtothe AA.
5. CHECKYOURTYRES: Tyres
that areinagood condition
andinflatedaccording to the
manufacturer’s specifications
will uselesspetrol.“And
tyresthatare alignedand
balancecan also help keep
your fuel consumptionlower,”
Layton says.
6. PLAN YOUR TRIPS: Try
to avoid shorttrips,says
Layton.Rather plan aroute
with multiple stopssoyou
cancomplete severaltasks
along theway.For example,if
youdothe school run, stop at
thegrocery storeafterwards
instead of doing twoseparate
trips. Andplanyourtripif
you’re going onalong journey,
he adds.Whatisthe quickest
routetoyourdestination?
When is thebest timetodrive
to avoid traffic? Arethere toll
boothsalong theway?
7. KEEP IT CONSISTENT:
Driving at aconstanteven
speed uses less fuel than
brakingoraccelerating
quickly.Thisalsomeans
that driving in traffic,where
youhave to constantsstop
and start, upsyourfuel
consumption. “Ifyou can,
work from home,orask your
employerifyou canstart later
or earliersothatyou canavoid
traffic,”advises Layton.
8. KEEP IT LIGHT: Aheavily
loaded vehicle will use
more fuel,sodon’t keep
unnecessary items, for
exampleluggage, in your car.
You’ll also usemorepetrol
when towing somethinglikea
trailerorboat.
9. DIESEL DRIVERS SHOULD
SHOP AROUND: Theprice of
diesel isn’t regulated,sohow
muchit’ll cost to fill up your
carcan differ from one fuel
stationtothe next.Try to find a
stationinyourareathatoffers
youthe best deal.
10. SWITCH OFFTHE AIRCON:
SouthAfrican summerscan
getunbearablyhot –especially
in acar –soforgoingair con
mightnot be your favourite
waytosave fuel,but if you
switch it off, or useitsparingly,
youwillsaveonfuel. Keep
in mind that if youneed to
choose betweendriving with
your windows down or aircon,
especially at higher speeds,
thelatterismorefuelefficient.
13
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

ROCK UP aT THE
RICHTERSVELD
14
AATraveller | WINTER 2022

National park
WORDSAND PHOTOSBYEVANNAUDÉ
THEREMOTEDESERTMOUNTAINREGIONOFTHE
RICHTERSVELD IS APARADISEFOR THOSESEEKING
SOLITUDE.SO, PACK YOUR BAGS ANDHEADNORTH! >
15
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

16
When Istarted my day inthe
Richtersveld this morning, Icould
not have guessed that Iwould end
up channelling my inner dassie
by mid-afternoon. Yet here Iam,
shirtless and spread out like a
starfish on atowel under amassive
boulder trying to move as little
as possible. The temperature
is hovering around 40°C and
there aren’t any trees around, so
imitating the local fauna isthe only
way tofind shade inthis arid desert
landscape.
I’ve been in the
|Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld
Transfrontier Park
for acouple of days
now, and I’ve learnt
that any activity (bar
driving around in
an air-conditioned
car) is futile in the
heat of the day. Iarrived at the
Kokerboomkloof Campsite early
and decided to have asiesta before
setting upmycampsite. This is,
after all, amountain desert region
where only the toughest creatures
survive. It is also isolated, lesservisited
and strikingly beautiful –all
features that make adventurous
travellers giddy with excitement.
MORE THAN ADESERT
In 2003, South Africa’s Richtersveld
National Park was combined with
Namibia’s |Ai-|AisHot Springs
Game Park toform a6000 km2
transborder reserve, the |Ai-|Ais-
Richtersveld Transfrontier Park.
Straddling the Gariep River in the
northwesternmost corner of the
country,the park’s location is the
most remote of all South Africa’s
national parks. This makes the
journey toget there anadventure
in itself as you gradually leave
behind civilisation, tarred roads
and cellphone signal. For the same
reason, you should give yourself at
least two to three days (more if you
plan on crossing into Namibia) to
explore the South African side of
the park properly.
In pre-pandemic times,
the border post at the park’s
headquartersatSendelingsdriftwas
my favourite way oftravelling into
Namibia. Apontoon transports you
over the Gariep River, and from
there you’re able toexplore the
|Ai-|Ais section of the park all the
way uptothe famous Fish River
Canyon. During mylatest visit,
however, this border remained
closed under national lockdown
measures and consequently mystay
remained confined to the South
African side of the park.
At first glance, the mountain
desert landscape ofthe
Richtersveld seems like adry,
empty and desolate place. It’s only
once you take acloser look that you
observethe unique desert-adapted
ecosystem that survives here. The
plant life belongs to the Succulent
Karoo ecoregion and asmuch as
360 individual species per km2
have been recorded here. Some,
like the unusual halfmensboom
(meaning half-human tree), are
found nowhere else onearth. In
Nama lore, these trees are the
embodiment oftheir ancestors
being driven out ofNamibia by
German colonisers inthe late 18th
century. Those who turned to look
back were frozen inplace, forever
trapped ashalf-human, halftree
beings staring towards their
ancestral home in the north.
Dotted around the landscape,
especially in the interior parts
of the park, you’ll also find the
distinctive looking quiver tree
(Aloidendron dichotomum) and its
lanky cousin the false quiver tree
(Aloidendron pillansii). Another
notable aloe isthe crimsoncoloured
Pearson’s aloe (Aloe
pearsonii) which grows abundantly
in Helskloof and puts on abright
yellow, orange and red flower
display inJanuary and February.
Unsurprisingly the environment
does not support avast number of
animals, but you might spot the
odd klipspringer, black backed
jackal, baboon orostrich between
the rocks. The park also lists
Hartmann’s zebra, the striped
polecat, caracal and even leopards
amongst its residents, although
As Ifloat in thewater,Iwatchthe shadowsof
themountains get longer andthe landscapeturns
agoldenorangeasthe sunsets. Ihearthe call of
afisheagle in thedistance.
these are much rarer to see.
The Gariep River supports a
wide variety ofbirds (the park
lists 212 species), sodon’t forget to
bring along lens for your camera
and apair ofbinoculars. Notable
residents include fish eagles,
goliath herons, jackal buzzards and
malachite kingfishers.
DOWN BY THERIVER
When Iarrive atthe park, Isign in
and have mytemperature checked
at the Helskloof Gate. From here,
it’s 19 km to the park offices at
Sendelingsdrift where Icheck in
and fill up my Fortuner one last
time before setting off deeper into
the park.
Starting atSendelingsdrift,
it makes sense to travel in a
clockwise direction through the
park. That way you can stay at
one ormore ofthe three riverside
camps orthe riverside chalets at >
AATraveller | WINTER 2022

National park
Numerousquiver
treesstand tall in
Kokerboomkloof.
Several plants
bloom in spring
andsummer.
Flowering season
drawsbutterflies
to thedesert.
17
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

National park
Theriver camp at
De Hoop
Some of the
succulents in the
park arefound
nowhere else in
theworld.
An Attenborough's
flat lizard
Theroadthat
winds through
themountainous
landscape is
captivating.
18
AATraveller | WINTER 2022

Thepark's
receptionoffice
WHERETOSTAY
Theaccommodation in the |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park consists
of campingand self-cateringcottages. Here’sabreakdown of what’s on offer:
Sendelingsdrift
Tenself-cateringchalets (housing
twotofourpeopleeach); allequipped
with airconditioning,afridgeand
two-plateelectricstoves. Youhave
aviewoverthe Gariep River, and
there’saswimming pool nearby.
Tatasbergand Ganakouriep
wilderness camps
Tatasbergislocated on thebanksof
theGariep whileGanakouriep is an
isolated region in thepark’sinterior.
Each camp hasfourtwo-bed selfcatering
units,each with ashower,
braaifacilities, 12-voltlights, afridge
andgas stove.
Ganakouriep
chalets
Aself-catering cottageat
Sendelingsdrif
Thecampsites
Theparkhas fourcampsites.
Potjiespram (18sites)isclosest to
thepark’sofficeatSendelingsdrift.
De Hoop (12 sites) is themost
popularcampdue to itsstunning
location next to theGariep River.
TheRichtersberg(sixsites)isa
good alternativeifyou want to
escape largegroupsofcampers.
Finally, as theonlyinterior campsite,
Kokerboomkloof (eight sites) offers
spectacularscenery at thefootofa
largeboulder-strewnoutcrop.
Formoreinformation andbookings,
visit sanparks.org/parks/
richtersveld.
Tatasberg before heading inland
for Kokerboomkloof (campsite)
or Ganakouriep (chalets) in the
interior of the park.
It’s not long before Ireach the
nearest campsite tothe park office,
Potjiespram, since it’s situated on
the riverbanks ofthe Gariep only
9kmfrom Sendelingsdrift. It’s
the least scenic of the riverside
camps, but still agood option if
you do not have time toventure
farther into the park. The other
two river camps, De Hoop and
Richtersberg (38 kmand 46 km
from Sendelingsdrift, respectively),
are more popular and can get
packed during high season.
Iwant toreach the DeHoop
campsite tonight, so Ipush onand
drive east over the Halfmens Pass.
On the other side, Itake ashort
detour to see the Hand of God,
apeculiar shape on the side ofa
boulder that looks like the palm
print ofagiant. Next, the Penkop
Pass takes meeastward, followed
by the winding Akkedis Pass. When
Ireach the bed of the Kook River,
the road follows the river and
gradually leads me towards the
Gariep. Onarrival at De Hoop, I
am surprised to see that half of the
camp is under water. Heavy rains
in the interior lifted the water level
of the Gariep significantly, even
drowning the road running along
the riverside to the next campsite
at Richtersberg.
Ipick aspot asclose to the
water asIdare and pitch mytent
facing the river. The current is
still quite strong, so Itake care not
to venture too deep when Itake
adip to cool down. AsIfloat in
the water, Iwatch the shadows of
the mountains get longer, and the
landscape turns agolden orange as
the sun sets. Ihear the call ofafish
eagle inthe distance and look for
the kingfishers I’ve spotted here on
previous visits, but today they don’t
seem to be around. Perhaps it’s
because the reeds they favour have
all been washed downstream by
the floodwaters. Birding is usually
>
19
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

National park
excellent here, and you are also
allowed tofish and canoe (with
your own equipment), yet none
of that seems possible until the
Gariep decides tocalm down.
Iprepare dinner under acloudy
sky tinted agolden hue bythe
setting sun. Soon the light turns
orange and then adeep candyfloss
pink. Mypasta-for-one dinner
goes down atreat, but by the time
I’ve done the washing upand
packing away, I’m drenched in
sweat again. The sun’s gone but
the day’s humidity remains, so I
take another dip in the river before
bedtime. Above meIsee starlight
pierce through the clouds as I
float between two countries in the
middle of adesert.
20
HOWTOEND UP UNDER
AROCK
I’m upatsunrise the next morning
so Ican make breakfast and pack
up camp before the heat ofthe day
sets in again. Today, Iamheading
for the Kokerboomkloof campsite,
about 55 km away. Itisnot that far
but driving on the park’s gravel
roads isslow going, and Iplan
on sight-seeing as much as Ican
en route.
Usually, you would be able to
drive toRichtersberg and from
there toTatasberg, where you
can connect with the road to
Kokerboomkloof. The high-water
levels of the river, however, force
me to drive back along the Kooks
River and over the Maerpoort
Pass. Onthe other side, Ireach
the Abiekwa River and turn
south along aroad that leads
me on to the dry riverbed ofthe
Ganakouriep. Apart from the selfcatering
chalets atGanakouriep
Wilderness Camp, there isalso the
Hakkiesdoring Hiking Camp near
here. Itserves asabase for hikers of
the four-day Vensterval Trail, which
is only open in the cooler months,
from April toSeptember.
By lunchtime, Ireach the
Springbok Flats, asweeping valley
with superb views towards Namibia
Theviewfrom
Kokerboomkloof
in the distance. Adetour leads me
to aviewpoint over the Tatasberg
valley where Iconstruct asandwich
in the back ofthe Fortuner, using
the tailgate asanawning. Itake my
time shooting afew pictures and
stop at another viewpoint before
continuing to Kokerboomkloof.
It is at this point that Iend up
taking anap under aboulder
to escape the heat. Later, when
it is finally cooler and Ifinish
setting upmycampsite, Inotice
an Attenborough's flat lizard
(Platysaurus attenboroughi), a
yellow-and-blue lizard named in
honour of Sir David Attenborough,
scampering across the rocks. A
dull-coloured female follows and on
another rock, Ispot aplump dassie
rat. Aklipspringer dashes out of
sight inthe distance, and off tothe
side, aflutter ofwhite butterflies
inspects the buds on ashrub.
In this moment Irealise the
seemingly desolate Richtersveld
is actually full oflife. Alife that
understands this harsh environment
and has adapted toitperfectly. I
am the odd one out here, anillequipped
creature in this place with
my sunscreen, mozzie spray and
carefully rationed supplies.
As Isit beside the campfire and
watch the sun turn the sky into a
sublime palette one final time, I
suddenly feel agreat privilege to
experience this mountain desert’s
beauty. Where else can you witness
the hand ofGod, float in ariver
between two countries, greet a
halfmens and siesta like adassie?
AATraveller | WINTER 2022

GOOD
TO
KNOW
VEHICLE: Youmustdrive a4x4
with high ground clearance to
be allowedentry intothe park.
Theroads insidethe park are
allgravel.
FUEL: Thereare fuel pumps
with petrol anddieselat
Sendelingsdrift, but it’sagood
ideatophone ahead to check
availability.The next nearestfuel
stationisatAlexander Bay, about
90 km away.
to Rosh Pinah
|Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier
Park
Potjiespram
C13
NAMIBIA
Fish
WATER: No fresh drinking water
is availableonceyou leave
Sendelingsdrift. Make sure you
bringenoughfor thedurationof
your stay.
Gariep
Sendelingsdrif
Sendelingsdrif Rest Camp
Halfmens
Hand of God
Akkedis
Penkop
De Hoop
SUPPLIES: Theparkcurrently
hasonlyasmall general store
andnorestaurant, so it is best to
bringeverythingyou mightneed
formeals andpreparing food
with you. This includes ice, wood,
firestarters,gas,batteries, etc.
WASTE: Thereare no bins in the
park.Makesureyou bringenough
rubbish bags to take allyourtrash
home with you.
CELLSIGNAL: Youwon’t have
any cell reception once youleave
Sendelingsdrift. Make your last
callshereand carryasatellite
phone forpeace of mind during
longerstays.
to Alexander Bay
Helskloof Gate
Helskloof
Domorogh
Kuboes
Maerpoort
Gariep
Richtersberg
Ganakouriep
Hakkiesdoring
Tatasberg
|Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld
Transfrontier Park
C13
Kokerboomkloof
Springbok Flats
to |Ai-|Ais
Aussenkehr
to Noordoewer
Gariep
21
Map: Francois Haasbroek
SPARES: It is recommendedto
bringasecond sparewheel and
common spareparts in case you
runintotrouble.
STAY COOL: Shadeisscarce
in theRichtersveld, so bringa
gazebo,awningorumbrellato
provide some respiteagainst the
harshheat.
to Lekkersing
SOUTH AFRICA
0 2,5 5 10
to Eksteensfontein
Kilometres
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

City guide
We’vegot thetop spotsyou need to addtoyour list when you
exploreJohannesburg and thisvibrant city’sbrilliantspaces. Over
130yearsago,goldwas foundonthe dustyHighveld, drawingin
people from aroundthe world. Johannesburghas come along
waysince then –fromasmall,ramshackle mining town to alarge,
lively Africanmetropolis. It maynot be everyone’s idea of aholiday
destination, butithas loadstoofferand is theideal city break.
BY JO BUITENDACH
22
ity of G
ALL THAT GLITTERS INTHE
AATraveller | WINTER 2022

It sinthe pt
old
Thecityisrichinhistory,and these
world-classmuseums andsites are
well worthacloser look.
■ ConstitutionHill, 11Kotze Street,
Braamfontein: Known as the Robben
Island of Johannesburg, Constitution
Hill is the home of our Constitutional
Court. It also houses the Number
Four prison and Women’s Jail. Both
held many ofSouth Africa’s liberation
heroes. The site offers daily tours
of the historic buildings and the
court’s unbeatable contemporary
art collection. Don’t leave without
checking out the scenic view of the
city from the top ofthe Old Fort.
Tickets start at R45; buy online at
constitutionhill.org.za.
■ Apartheid Museum, corner of
Northern Parkway and Gold Reef,
Ormonde: No trip to Jozi is complete
without avisit to this staggering
museum. Ittells the story of both
South Africa’s 20th century history
and apartheid through photographs
and film. You will leave feeling
thankful for the brave men and
women who fought against the
apartheid regime. Access from R100.
Apartheidmuseum.org
■ ChancellorHouse, corner of Fox
and Gerard Sekoto, Ferreirasdorp:
From 1952 to 1960, Chancellor House
housed the office of the Mandela
and Tambo Attorneys law firm. Now
anational heritage site, this exteriorfacing,
free museum is great place
to learn more about its fascinating
tenants, Oliver Tambo and Nelson
Mandela.
>
Constitution
Hill
Chancellor
House
23

Home of
theBean
Eat and be merry
Marble
24
Like allmigrant cities, Johannesburg’s
food cultureisamishmashofcultures
from alloverthe globe. You’re in for
everythingfromfinediningtocoffeeand
cake with akick.Visithungry!
■ Marble, The Trumpet Building,
corner of Keyes and Jellicoe Avenues,
Rosebank: This little bit ofluxury has
it all: great views, atop selection of
wines and heavenly food, largely
cooked on wood-fired grills. Helmed
by renowned chef David Higgs,
Marble is atrue celebration of South
African fare. Book at marble.resturant.
■ ThePantrybyMarble, 170 Jan
Smuts Ave, Rosebank: Ifyou don’t
have the time orbudget for Marble,
why not try out their new sibling?
Only in Joburg would a24-hour
garage store beall the rage. But
this isn’t your basic “cigarettes, pies
and ice situation”. Rather itoffers an
extensive range of baked goods, deli
items, coffee, grab-and-go meals,
homeware, and local and imported
produce. Pantry.co.za.
■ SalvationCafé, 44Stanley Avenue,
Milpark, and TheWhippet, 347th
Street, Linden: We think you can
judge acity byits brunch offering,
and luckily Joburg doesn’t come up
short onthis front. Salvation Café
and The Whippet lead the pack. The
Whippet’s pumpkin seed and feta
on sourdough is perfection and their
selection of pastries and cakes is out
of this world. Alternatively, navigate
your way over toSalvation Café for
their celebrated eggs benedict or
breakfast burrito. Bookings can be
made on salvationcafe.co.za. The
Whippet (thewhippetcoffee.com)
doesn’t take bookings.
Breezeblock
■ Gerald andCharlie’sTown
Treasure, 110 Fox Street, City Centre:
Fancy ameal inone of downtown
Joburg’s old bank vaults? Us too! With
amenu inspired by migrant culture
(think dombolo and bobotie), this
is an eatery run bylocals who love
and understand the city. Its owners,
Gerald Garner and Charlie Moyo, also
offer tours ofthe city centre and fun
storytelling evenings. Bookings can
be made on joburgplaces.com.
■ TheRand Club, 33Loveday Street,
Marshalltown: Founded in1887, the
oldest private club inJohannesburg
is worth avisit just toexperience its
AATraveller | WINTER 2022

City guide
Sweet
Teaand
Chikadee
history and extraordinary
building. Ameal attheir
elegant restaurant isayummy
bonus. Also, The Rand Club
boasts the longest bar in
Africa –it’s aperfect spot to
enjoy refreshments after aday
of exploring. Booking essential
at restuarant@randclub.co.za.
Randclub.co.za
■ Breezeblock, 29Chiswick
Street, Brixton: Named
for alightweight building
block that was popular in
the 1970s, Breezeblock is a
quirky neighbourhood café. It
boasts good coffee and food,
alovely garden and an uber
stylish mid-century interior,
featuring (you guessed
it) loads of breezeblocks.
Breezeblock.co.za
■ SweetTea and Chikadee,
32 7th Street, Linden: A
southern American bakery
and café isn’t the first thing
that comes to mind when
you think of food in Jozi. But
Sweet Tea and Chikadee
Off to market we go
If youhaven’t spentenoughof
your hard earned moola yet,
Joburghas some fabmarkets
too. This is your chance to enjoya
brew while taking in some local
craftand artisanalsweet treats.
■ Prison BreakMarket, 10
MacMillan Road, Midrand:
New kid on the block,
experience the Prison Break
Market’s indoor and outdoor
spaces, yummy food,
crafters and entertainment.
With six restored industrial
buildings of fun and akids’
racetrack, this is one the
whole family can enjoy.
Prisonbreakmarket.co.za
■ ThePlayground, 73Juta
Street, Braamfontein: This hip
market takes place in one of
Braamfontein’s most striking
modernist buildings, with a
façade created by sculptor
is just that –and it’s super.
Edoardo Vila. The Playground
We suggest you order their
aims to spark joy and views
signature “biscuits with fixins”
Joburg’s citizens asits best
accompanied by achocolatey
kept secret. Welove the
mocha to warm you up.
market’s strong urban feel
Sweetteachikadee.co.za
and its carefully chosen stalls
■ Homeofthe Bean, 264 Fox
selling an exciting mix of
Street, Maboneng: Nothing
streetwear and refreshments.
beats astrong cup of coffee,
Playground.co.za
>
ascrumptious snack and
asunny spot. Home ofthe
PrisonBreak
Bean in Maboneng offers this
trifecta and more. It is agreat
place tomeet friends, get
some work done or even do
some epic people watching.
■ TheMarabi Club, 47
Sivewright Ave, New
Doornfontein: Inthe mood to
put onyour glad rags, hit the
bright lights and let loose?
Since Jozi isfamous for its
jazz, the Marabi Club isan
unbeatable option. It offers
an exceptional menu and the
best in live jazz, soget ready
to dance the night away.
Bookings can bemade at
hallmarkhouse.info. >
25
SUMMER 2021 | AA Traveller

26
Soweto
Towers
Graffiti in
Braamfontein
ReginaMundi
Catholic Church
FNBStadium
Avisit to Soweto is essential ifyou’re
in Jozi. Dating back tothe early 1900s,
this sprawling urban space was created
for black residents who were made
to live there under the apartheid
government’s segregationist laws. Itwas
the scene for many of South Africa’s
most important events, including the
signing of the Freedom Charter in1955
and the Soweto Youth Uprising in1976.
Today this “city within acity” is avital
part ofJohannesburg and has its own
vibrant culture.
Soweto had adeepand meaningful past,
much of it centred around apartheid and
the struggle for freedom. Tolearn more,
we recommend you check out Mandela
House (mandelahouse.com), the former
home of Nelson and Winnie Mandela.
It is located at8115 Vilakazi St, Orlando
West. Tickets start atR40.
Regina Mundi Catholic Church, often
referred to as “the people’s church”,
played apivotal role inthe struggle
against apartheid and is amust-visit too.
It is at 1149 Mkhize Street, Soweto. Bring
cash to pay asmall entrance donation.
If, like us, you believe the best way to
experience aplace is through its cuisine,
then add Lebo’sSoweto Backpackers
(10823 Pooe St, Orlando West) toyour
list. This fabulous Soweto spot offers
meals outdoors intheir communal park.
Choose from potjiekos, curries, bunny
chow, salads and abraai. Lebo’s also
offers avariety of accommodation,
including acamping ground, dorms and
private rooms. If you want toexperience
Soweto “like alocal”, they offer daily
bike, walking and tuk-tuk tours. Lunch
and tour bookings can bemade on
sowetobackpackers.com.
Make sure toinclude aphoto stop at
FNBStadium (stadiummanagement.
co.za) on your way toSoweto. The
calabash-shaped structure, with its
arresting red, brown and gold colouring,
seats over90000 spectators andhosted
the opening and closing ceremonies of
the 2010 FIFA World Cup. FNB Stadium
is at Soccer City Ave, Nasrec.
Township vibes
AATraveller | SUMMER 2021

City guide
Shop till you drop!
If you’re cravingalittle retail therapy, you’ve come
to theright spot.Jozidoeseverything from fancy
designer stores to quirkier andbudget friendly
shopping spotswithflair.
■ Amatuli, 6Desmond Street, Kramerville:
Amatuli’s multiple floor gallery isaone-stop
shop for African artefacts, wall hangings,
furniture and an impressive array ofintricately
woven baskets. Amatuli.co.za
■ MiniMark, 33c Albertina Sisulu Rd, corner of
Diagonal Street: Joburg’s inner city is apan-
African delight offering the best fare, fabric
and culture from the continent. MiniMark has a
great selection of traditional fabric from South
Africa and further afield too. The rainbowlike
rows and rows of shweshwe fabric are
particularly inspiring.
■ Shop BAHA, 44Stanley Ave, Milpark: Some
of South Africa’s most recognisable images
can betraced back tothe iconic publication
Drum magazine and the Baileys African History
Archive. Captured over athree-decade period,
these images of celebrities, sports stars,
scandals and politics are apowerful record
of the realities of apartheid South Africa. The
BAHA Store sells awide range of items that
feature images from the archive, including prints,
notebooks, T-shirts and cards. Baha.co.za.
44 Stanley Avenue
Love Books
■ Tinsel Gallery, Bamboo Centre, 53
Rustenburg Road, Melville: Champions oflocal
contemporary jewellery, this gallery focuses on
one-of-a-kind pieces, all handmade in South
Africa. Itisatreasure trove oftrinkets and future
keepsakes. Tinselgallery.com
■ JamesFindlay Collectable Booksand
AntiqueMaps, 33Loveday Street, Marshalltown:
Located inthe basement of the historic Rand
Club, this idiosyncratic jewel of astore offers
awide range of rare and collectable books,
antique maps, engravings, paintings and posters.
■ Love Books, Bamboo Centre, 53 Rustenburg
Road, Melville: Abibliophile’s dream! This
independent bookstore has agreat atmosphere
and aneven greater assortment ofwell-known
and lesser-known titles. They also have atop
kiddies’ section to keep the littler members of
the family happy. Lovebooks.co.za
■ Guillotine, 44Stanley Ave, Milpark: Driven by
ethics and inspired by Johannesburg, Guillotine
offers carefully curated, limited-edition fashion
that’s been sustainably sourced and supports
small businesses. Their Basotho Collection is
achic tribute to the highly patterned Basotho
blanket. They use the staple tomake coats, neck
warmers and scarfs. Guillotinebylisajaffe.com. >
27
WINTER 2022 | AATraveller

Let stalk about art
From thelatest WilliamKentridge
exhibition to some graffiti tags on a
streetlight, Joburgembracesart.
■ EverardRead andCIRCA,
2&6Jellicoe Avenue, Rosebank:
Everard Read isSouth Africa’s
oldest commercial gallery. It
represents some of the country’s
top artists, including Nandipha
Mntambo, Blessing
Ngobeni and Lady
Skollie. In 2009, the
gallery added a
gorgeous, curved
structure across
the road called
the CIRCA gallery.
CIRCA is now just
as recognised for
its outstanding
contribution to
South African
architecture as it is
to contemporary art.
The obligatory shot ofCIRCA’s
sunlight dappled walkway is a
must for any keen photographers.
Everard-read.co.za
■ ArtistProof Studio, 1Harrow
Court, 36 Boundary Road,
Houghton Estate:Thisprintmaking
and training centre focuses onall
aspects ofprinting, while aiming
to help talented artists create a
better future for themselves. The
APS has an extensive collection
of limited edition prints for
sale, suitable for any budget.
Artistproofstudio.co.za
■ Graffitiand Street Art: Did you
know that Johannesburg isthe
graffiti and street art capital of
Africa? Large and small artworks
snake their way along the walls
of the inner city as top
local and international
Maboneng
street art
artists leave their
mark. Murals can be
found throughout
the city, but we
recommend starting
in the Braamfontein,
Newtown orMaboneng
precincts. Renowned
artists work tolook out
for are Shepard Fairey,
Faith XLVII, Vhils, Falko,
Mars and DBongz.
CIRCA
Gallery
STAYINGSAFE
Joburgisagreat citybut
hasabit of abad rep, so
make sure youkeepsafe
duringyourstay. Be aware
of your surroundings,
usecommon sense, ask
atrusted local, know
where you aregoing and
keep your valuablesout
of sight.

City guide
Let'sgo
for adrive
Quality
Assured
Maropeng
Visitor Centre
THEAARECOMMENDS
Images: Jo Buitendach andsupplied
Nothing beats the frenetic energy
of the city, but if you crave alittle
downtime, we suggest taking a
drive tothe Cradle of Humankind.
Situated about 50kmnorthwest of
Johannesburg, this 47000-hectare
UNESCO World Heritage Site
encompasses several important
paleoanthropological limestone
caves. Start your adventure at
the Maropeng Visitor Centre, an
interactive museum space that
focuses onthe development of
humans and our ancestors in a
family-friendly way, before moving
onto aguided tour of the worldfamous
Sterkfontein Caves. The
Maropeng Visitor Centre isjust off
the R563, and Sterkfontein Caves
is on Kromdraai Road. Tickets start
at R100 and must bebought on
maropeng.co.za.
Make aday of it by visiting the
NIROX SculpturePark. Itlies onthe
banks of the Blaauwbankspruit
River and hosts more than 50
permanent outdoor art instillations.
After arelaxing walk around the
sculpture park, enjoy lunch at ‘And
then there was Fire…’. This gorgeous,
breezy restaurant is onsite and
specialises inwoodfired food and
tapas. NIROX Sculpture Park and
‘And then there was Fire…’ are open
weekends and public holidays.
Entrance fees start at R120 and can
be bought atniroxarts.com.
Joburg Luxury Suites, Northcliff
Highlyrecommended
Modern andfurnished to averyhigh
standard,JoburgLuxurySuites
offers guest stunning180°northfacing
viewsfromits tranquilsetting
on NorthcliffHill. Thereare three
executiveapartmentstochoose from.
VillaLugano GuestHouse,Mulbarton
Superior
Guests canchoosefromsingleto
deluxe twin or doublerooms –all are
stylishly furnishedand have large
en suitebathrooms.Villa Lugano’s
expansiveand beautifulemerging
garden andentertainmentareas add to
theestablishment’scharm.Italsohas
secure off-street parkinginthe form of
doubleautomatedgarages.Guest can
look forwardtoarelaxing stay.
Allthese properties canbebookedat
qa.aatravel.co.za/home.
Birch Tree CottageB&B,Randburg
Highlyrecommended
Locatedclose to Montecasino, this bed
andbreakfast has four bedroomsand
aself-catering cottagebig enough to
sleepsix.All havetheir ownprivate
bathrooms, aflatscreenTV, barfridge
andcoffeeand tea. Guestsare welcome
to usethe patioand pool.
Acacia House ExecutiveSuite, Sandton
HighlyRecommended
Idealfor solo travellersorcouples, this
exclusiveprivate suiteisinKelvin,Sandton.
TheGaurtain Marlboro Stationisnearby,
andithas easy highwayaccesstoPretoria,
Johannesburg andORTambo airport.
Little Rock Accommodation,Roodepoort
Highlyrecommended
Situatedonfiveacres in asereneand safe
setting, thisestablishmenthas 15 doublebed
units,fourthree-bed units,two threebed
units andone four-bed unit. It’s closeto
theRhino andLionNaturereserve.
29
WINTER 2022 | AATraveller

WORDSDANIELLE MCDONALD|PHOTOSKONRAD RAUBENHEIMER
CHEERS TO THE
Souyern Cape
30
Karriedistiller
AndriesOdendaal
Idyllicand full
of character
–it’swhat
Vermaarklikheid
is allabout.
AA traveller | WINTER 2020

SouthernCape
Farmersinthisregion
have been making their
ownwitblitsand karrie
long before theCovid
alcoholban forced South
Africans to brew homemadepineapple
beer.We
visitedVermaaklikheid
and Herbertsdale to learn
more aboutthis artform.
It has become somewhat of atrend
amongst city folk tobrew “boutique
gins” or“boutique beers” in their
garages, but inthe Southern Cape,
people have been distilling their own
tipples for decades. Here they make
hard tack from whatever is available
in the region.
Some of Andries’
beehives.
Piet Brits’
Mampoer
Championship
award.
FUNONVERMAAKLIKHEID
In this small, idyllic town, hidden
between the Duiwenhoks River and the
Blombos dunes, far from the hubbub of
the city, Ifind Andries Odendaal’s karrie
tasting room: Die Byekorf? No, I’m not
questioning the name –the question mark
is part of the name. Andries chuckles
when Iask him about it. Hesays it’s to
pique people’s interest inthe place.
Andries is84years old but looks like
aman in his seventies –ayoung, strong
70. Imeet him on his yard where hefirst
shows methe beehives from where the
honey used inhis distillery come from.
Years ago, alarge fire swept through the
area, and he lost most of his hives. Today,
he’s back on his feet and has about 30
hives. He recalls that the fire completely >
31
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

SouthernCape
Jakkalsvlei
Restaurant
32
Things to do in Herbertsdale
Jakkalsvlei: It’sastunning restaurantthatwas surprisingly full foraThursday
afternoonout of season.Inrecentyears,Jakkalsvlei hasbecomefamous in the
region.Heretheybrewbeeronthe premisesand produce avariety of wines, and
Piet Britsdistils theirwitblits.
Take abackroad: Severalpeopleadvisedmetotakethe backroad to
Herbertsdalebecause it’ssobeautiful –and it is!But Itookthe wrong backroad.
At one stage (but with thefarmer’spermission)Idrove across privatelandwhich
includedpassing throughquite afew farm gates.
Dwarsrivier CountryCottages and NuthousePub: As youleave
Herbertsdaleinthe directionofVan Wyksdorp, asmall sign that reads “Pub”
catchesyoureye.Atfirst sight, it doesn’tlooklikemuch,but theNuthouseon
Dwarsrivier Farm haswonderful owners andchild-friendly accommodationina
beautiful valley.It’salekkernamefor alekkerplace on amacadamia nutfarm
that’s about14kmoutsideoftown.
Driving on
thepassto
Herbertsdale.

Karrie versus witblits
andmampoer
•The name karrie most likely comes
from the Nama word ‘!kari-b’. It’s
believed that this honey beer or
honey wine isone of the oldest
alcoholic drinks inthe world, and
it has been brewed byindigenous
people for hundreds and thousands
of years. According tolegend,
the Khoisan found anaturally
fermented drink inthe hollows of
karri trees. This drink was formed
when honey dripped into water
in the hollows ofthe tree and
naturally fermented. This inspired
them to ferment their own drinks.
Piet Britswith
hisgrandfather’s
still.
Threegenerations
of distillersin
Herberstdale
• Mampoer and Witblits are pretty
much the same thing. The word
mampoer is used in the north of
the country and witblits inthe
south –mostly inthe Western Cape.
The only difference is that witblits
is made exclusively by distilling
grapes, whereas mampoer can be
the product of other fruit as well.
changed the taste ofthe honey. The large
trees and bushes burnt down, and the
first thing toshoot up afterwards was wild
cumin (‘veldkomyn’). Now, the area is
lush with cumin, and hegives me some of
the honey to taste. It’s light incolour and
has anherbal taste. Not overwhelmingly
so, but there are traces of it. Henow
brews his karrie (as well asvarious other
concoctions that heswears will protect
you from several ailments) with this
cumin honey.
Karrie is ahoney beer that was
traditionally considered to be ahealth
drink. According toAndries, you can
drink itfor almost any malady.
Karrie is made from larvae-containing
honeycomb that’s heated in lukewarm
water. The larvae inthe comb are inthe
final stage of their transformation and
are still white and soft. Yeast is added to
this. Back inthe day, they used so-called
karriemoer, the root of an indigenous
succulent, instead ofyeast. The number of
larvae determines the taste of the karrie
These
plattelanders
know howto
make aperson
feel welcome!
to alarge extent. “Toofew and it’s too
sweet. Toomany and it tastes bitter.” But
Andries doesn’t want togive away anymore
of his recipe.
He lets me taste, and Imust admit,
it’s much nicer than what Iexpected.
He explains that it’s not beer inthe
traditional sense of the word, but rather
atype ofmead orhoney wine. And the
alcohol content is27%. That definitely
doesn’t sound like traditional beer!
“It’s just what people have been
drinking in the area for years,” he says. I
guest that’s where Vermaaklikheid got its
name from.
WITBLITSONHERBERTSDALE
My next stop is Herbertsdale. The
road Itake from Vermaaklikheid to
Herbertsdale is mostly dirt road. This is
another place you won’t just come across –
you need to look for it!
The road winds along the foothills of
the Langeberge, and once again, Ifall
in love with the beauty ofthe Southern
Cape. Idrive from Herbertsdale with a
set ofhandwritten directions on apaper
bag, because where I’m heading, you’ll
only find alandline, and Google hasn’t
mapped out this corner of the Southern
Cape yet. Luckily, Ifind the farm. But as it
goes on most farms, the farmer, Piet Brits,
is busy managing acrisis and even though
it’s 15:00, he still hasn’t had lunch yet.
Fortunately, his wife knows ofmyarrival
and baked abread to welcome me. These
plattelanders know how to make aperson
feel welcome! Ithink it’s the first time
anyone has ever baked abread especially
for me!
“Hello, I’m Kinnie. Asin‘Kinnie
vergeet nie’ [Cannot forget],” Piet’s wife
greets me warmly. Wedrink coffee and
chat about witblits while we wait for Piet.
Piet is athird generation witblits
distiller and one of about 20people
nationwide who has awitblits distillery
licence. The potstill kettle he uses has
been in his family since 1937 –that’s when
his grandfather bought it second hand
and fixed it up right here onthe farm.
He adds that the kettle ismore than a100
years old, and in the cellar heshows me >
33
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

SouthernCape
Theentranceto
DieByekorf?
RiverMagic
TheOulyweOasis
Thetraffic in
Vermaaklikheid
Things to do in Vermaaklikheid
DieSuikerhuisie: Youcan scarce
believethata“minimall” with a
restaurant,beautysalon andinterior
designer exists in such asmall town.
TheOulyweOasis restaurant is only
open on theweekends, andyou need
to book.The ownermakes herown
oliveoil andother products that can
be bought at therestaurant.And she
claimstomakethe best pastaand pesto
in theregion, usingafamily recipe she
learnt from herItalian mother-in-law.
Book with Rialené:082 6899660
RiverMagic
RiverMagic hasvarious picturesqueold
homesonthe banksofthe Duiwenhoks
River. Twoofthe homesare on theother
side of theriver.Aferry takesvisitors
andall theirluggageand groceries
across theriver,and it fetchesthem
again when it’s time to leave. If youwant
to getacrossany othertime, you’ll need
to rowyourself. vermaaklikheid.co.za
House of Eels
TheHouseofEelsisaunique
farmstead, inspired by thearea’snatural
beauty. Reeds, blue gum, slateand
rivermud, as well as steelimplements
foundonthe farm,wereusedinclever
ways to buildthischarminghouse.
Idealfor groupsthatneed abit of a
breather. perfecthideaways.co.za/
accommodation/house-of-eels/
Fishing in dieDuiwenhoks
DieDuiwenhoksRiver hasone of the
last undeveloped rivermouthsinthe
WesternCape. It’sanexcellent fishing
spot andideal forspendinglazydays
on aboatorinacanoewithabird
guidebookinyourhand.
34
pictures of family distillers throughout the
years. Piet is very proud of the fact that
he won gold in 2017 at the South African
National Mampoer Championship. The
man knows his stuff! I’m flabbergasted
to learn that something like anational
mampoer championship exists.
And how do you get tobeajudge at the
competition?
Apparently, you need to look atcolour,
smell and taste. He pours meaglass, and
it’s so strong my lips burn, but Piet says
it’s supposed to be like that, and he starts
talking about how much fun distilling is.
“The whole ward comes and help, and
then we get afew more people just for the
fun ofit.” Kinnie notices that he’s starting
to enjoy our conversation and moves to
the farthest end of the table. Piet teases
that she’s always been hot tempered but
has mellowed out over the years.
FROM ACROSS THEMOUNTAIN
He tells meabout the witblits smuggling
route that ran through these mountains.
It’s asecret path that was built after KWV
was given legal control over the country’s
production of wine and spirits. People on
the other side of the mountain –those
from the Wyksdorp and Calitzdorp
region –used this footpath through the
mountain tosmuggle their witblits tothe
towns below the Langeberge. The route
could only be navigated byfoot, horse
or donkey.
Later, Ifound out from another local
farmer that the distillers smuggled witblits
by pouring itinto bamboo reeds sealed
with beeswax. Apparently, they spun atale
about using the bamboo reeds as fishing
rods and supplied witblits totowns on
the seaside of the mountain, places like
Riversdal, Heidelberg, Albertinia and
Herbertsdale. Until recently, the Witblits
route could be hiked, but it’s nolonger
accessible. And in any case, Herbertsdale
doesn’t need this route anymore –they
have Piet Brits!
Iask if his sons are also distillers, and I
quickly get the impression that only one
distiller is allowed atatime. “Well, we’re
going todistil again next month. You
should come and help.”
Iwouldn’t miss itfor the world!
AATraveller | SUMMER 2021

Winterdestinations
ANDCOSY
35
Don’tspend thewhole of winter sittingathomewhile youwaitfor
summer.We’ve selected stunning destinations in each province
thatare idealfor awintergetaway.
BY THEAAREPORTING TEAM
>
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

NORTHWEST
36
Morokolo Safari Lodge,
Pilanesberg
Highly recommended
Morokolo Safari Lodgeis
in theBlack RhinoGame
Reserve(aBig Fivereserve)
locatedonthe northern
slopes of thePilanesberg
Mountains,lessthan
3hours from Johannesburg.
Thelodge is namedafter
theTswanawordfor the
num-numtree. It’s theideal
getawayfor smallfamilies and
groupsofupto10 people.
Guests areaccommodated
in self-cateringsuitesfor two
or morepeople. Allsuites
have aircon.Morokolo has
10-seatersafarivehiclesand
guests have full access to
therestofthe Pilanesberg
reserve. Thelodge hasa
crystal-clearswimmingpool
forwarmer days,aswellasa
jacuzzi–perfect forwinter.
TheBlack RhinoReserve
is about2500hectares in size
andwas recently included
in thelargerPilanesberg
National Park,which covers
57 000 hectares. Besides
allofthe largeand small
gameyou’llsee,you’llbe
enchantedbythe stunning
tambotie forest.Lookout
forthe extremelyrareblack
rhino, as well as thecritically
endangeredwilddog.With
morethan350 bird species,
it’s adream destination
forbirdwatchers.
GAUTENG
LIMPOPO
Somabula Nature Reserve,
Cullinan
Highlyrecommended
Cullinanisagoodoption forGautengers
whocan’t slip away from work earlyona
Friday.This old-fashioned mining town is
less than an hour fromJohannesburg and
about40minutes from Pretoria.The town
hasseveral museumsand restaurants,and
variousadventure activities areonoffer in
thesurrounding area.
If you justwanttotakeabreather, go to
theSomabulaNatureReserve.This reserve
ATKV Klein-Kariba,Bela-Bela
Highly recommended
Hot springsaren’t just greatinthe winter,
they’re also good foryourhealthyearround.
Forcenturies, peoplehavebeen
visiting hotsprings to getrelieffrom
inflammatory conditions like arthritis.
is home to at least50mammalspecies:
variousantelope, giraffe, zebras and
wildebeests, amongstothers, plus more
than 240birdspecies. Forhikers, thereare
threeroutesmarkedout;theyare 3,7and
12 km in distance.
Stay in oneofthe self-cateringunits
or pitchyourtentonthe shadycamping
grounds. Youeven have theoptionof
stayinginarenovatedoxwagon!For
winter,however,wewould suggest the
Shibalaand Matombochalets;bothhave
fireplaces in thelivingareas.
SouthAfricahas several hotsprings,but
theone at theATKVKlein-Kariba (an
hour’s drivefrom Pretoriaand 90 minutes
from Johannesburg)isprobablyour
favourite becauseit'ssofamilyfriendly.
Theresort hastwo warm swimming pools
andaheated indoor swimming pool,as
well as one cold swimmingpool. Forthe
kids,there is awater slide andfor the
adults,anine-hole golf course. There
is also aplethoraofactivitiestochoose
from:you cangohorseriding, watch
game, go on ahike, cycle, fish andhave
funinrowingboat. Or youcould relaxat
theMafuraSpa.Klein-Kariba hasvarious
accommodationoptions–from cottages
or chaletsfor eight,six or fourpeople to
campsites.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2022

Winterdestinations
MPUMALANGA KWAZULU-NATAL
Waterfront Guesthouse,Carolina
Highlyrecommended
Relaxaroundthe damatCarolinaincentral Mpumalanga. The
Waterfront Guesthouse offers four-staraccommodation andisthe perfect
spot from whichdrive outtonearby places like Ermelo,Badplaas,Belfast,
Hendrina, Machadodorpand Middelburg,and it’s theideal placeto
overnightifyou’retravellingfromGauteng to Eswatini (103 km), the
Kruger National Park (222 km)and thePanoramaRoute in Mpumalanga
(125 km). Theguesthousehas sixlarge en suiteunits that canhouse up to
14 adults.Eachhas itsown privateentrance, andthere is agenerator on
thepremises. Sitonyourown veranda andwatch thebirdlife.
WESTERNCAPE
GableManor, La TerradeLuc and La Galinière, Franschhoek
Franschhoekisone of theoldesttowns in (highly recommended) andGable
SouthAfricaand is oneofthose places Manor(superior). La TerradeLuc offers
you canreturntoagainand again. The sixstylish en suiterooms with modern
town celebrates an annual literary festival furnishings.Ifyou want afarmexperience,
in Mayand theannualBastilleFestival in book oneofthe self-cateringunits at La
July.Gofor ahikeinthe Mont Rochelle Galinière. It's locatedonaboutique wine
NatureReserveorenjoy amealatone farm in theheart of theFranschhoek
of thetown’stop-class restaurants. You Valley.All theunits arenamed afterwine
canalsovisit theHugenoteMonument varieties andhave kitchensthatare well
or thetown’scar museum –orgoon equipped.Gable Manorislocated in town
achocolate tour.Winterisred wine andoffersfourluxurydouble roomsand
season andFranchhoek’sfamouswine twoelegant suites.Guestscan choose
tram ensuresthatthe town's visitors betweenrooms on thetop andbottom
don’t drinkand drive. Threeexcellent floors of thehouse –somewithmountain
accommodationestablishments areLa viewsand otherswithgardenviews.Some
TerradeLuc (superior),LaGalinière unitshave balconiesand allhave aircon.
Umzolozolo Lodge, Ladysmith
Superior
If youwanttotreat yourself,escapetoUmzolozolo
whereyou cansee theBig Fivewhile stayingin
thelap of luxury.Umzolozolo is on theNambiti
PrivateReserve near Ladysmith –about 4hours
from Johannesburg and2hours from Durban.The
lodgeishometothe elegantTulanaSpa andguests
canstayinthe presidential suite, luxury chalets
andluxurysuites. You’ll also be treatedtoAfrican
cuisineand have atracker andgamerangerat
yourdisposal.
>
37
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

Winterdestinations
It’s oneofthose places whereyou'll
socialiselikeyou'reold friends.
38
NORTHERN CAPE EASTERNCAPE
Rolbos, Calvinia
Highly recommended
If youalwaysleave it till toolatetobook
forthe flower season,you should find
somewheretostayduringlateAugust
or earlySeptembertoday still. Calvinia
is in theheart of theflower region,
butthe town is also an ideal winter
getaway. Feastontraditional food in
theHantamHuisand visitone of the
museumsintown. Youcan also use
Quarry Lake Inn,EastLondon
Superior
Lookingfor aspotfromwhich to
explorethe EasternCape? Then this
four-starguesthouseinaquietsuburb
of East London is theoasis you’ve been
searchingfor.The guestshouselooks
Quality
Assured
Calviniaasthe startingpoint to drive
outtonearby towns, like Loeriesfontein
or Nieuwoudtville. Frikkieand Joey
Rootmanhave been welcomingguests
to Rolbos since1998, andwhen guests
arrive,theystand at theready to receive
them with Hantam hospitalityand
home-cookedmeals.Guestsstayin
double or single roomsorself-catering
units. It’s one of thoseplaceswhere
you’ll socialiselikeyou'reold friends.
out on arehabilitedquarryand has
been receiving localand international
guests forover 20 years.QuarryLake
Innhas 16 elegantensuiterooms,
each with itsown entrance.Units have
aircon,internetfacilities, DStv,abar
fridge andcoffeeand teafacilities.
FREE STATE
Allthese propertiescan be booked at qa.aatravel.co.za/home.
House Beautiful, Rosendal
Highlyrecommended
In thelastcouple of years,tourists
have flockedtothe picture-pretty
town of Clarens–andwithgood
reason.Justastone’sthrow away
you’llfindRosendal –and this
town will captureyourheart.
“The Free State'sbest-kept secret”
is howthe town describes itself on
itswebsite (rosendaltown.co.za),
andthe residentsofRosendal
have putinthetimeand workto
make theirtownastourist
friendlyaspossible. Rosendal is
about 70 km from Bethlehemand
110kmfromClarens andwas
originally afarming community,
butthese days it’s thehomeof
artists andhas several
accommodation establishments
andrestaurants.House Beautiful
hasenoughspacefor 22 guestand
is housed in an original sandstone
house from 1915.Guestsstayinen
suiterooms andshare akitchen
andlivingarea.
Photos:Supplied, experiencenortherncape.com, Julian Goldswain,Getty/Gallo Images
AA Traveller | WINTER 2022

St John's
Anglican
church
Thebig
pineapple
House of Gaddi
40

WORDS&PHOTOSBYMIA LOUW
Bathurst
BIG BANG
Locals have dubbed theirlittlevillage “the centre of the
universe”.Somesay it’s merely amarketing slogan drummed
up overbeers at thebar.Ormaybe it’s because thebucolic
Bathurst offersanexplosion of talents, tastes andtreasures.
Ipaid Bathurst avisit for the first time early in 2010. Iwas afirst-year
journalism student atRhodes University in Makhanda, and the 58kmtrip
to the coast was apopular weekend outing for Rhodents.
Fifteen kmbefore Port Alfred’s sandy beaches, we drove through what
seemed tobeahandful of art galleries, antique shops and apub plucked
from the English countryside and plonked atafour-way intersection.
“It feels like we are in1800s England,” Ishrieked asmyflatmate,
Minette van der Walt, parked her skedonk atThe Historic Pig and Whistle
Inn. We both recently returned from the United Kingdom after two gap years
in the Cotswolds.
Of course, the geography and flora are different. On the sandy slopes
you’ll find adense woodland of succulent trees, shrubs and river euphorbias
(the ecoregion is called the Albany thicket) but grab apint atthe Pig ona
rainy day, and you might aswell beback inold Blighty.
Bathurst was established in 1820 as an administrative centre for British
settlers. The UKwas facing unemployment and poverty during their
industrial revolution. With the promise ofland and abetter future,
immigrants were brought out by the government topopulate what was then
known asthe Cape Colony’s eastern frontier.
41
>
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

Weekend away
42
The village has along list ofhistorical
sites. Travelling from Makhanda, the R67
curves past the Agricultural Museum and
dips down into Trappes Street. Atthe
1820 Centenary Hall, you can follow Nico
Malan Ave up the hill to the Toposcope
Viewpoint. Colonel Jacob Cuyler set up
camp near this site in 1820 while hewas
supervising the placing ofsettlers.
The plaques onthe stone wall indicate
where each party was deployed, and in
2018, the Historic Bathurst society added
aterrace to commemorate the Xhosa
chiefs during the settlers’ arrival, with
their names, chiefdoms, direction of and
distance totheir kraals.
If you turn right at Centenary Hall,
Donkin Terrace will deliver the oldest
unaltered Anglican church in the country.
The outbreak of the Sixth Frontier
War in1834 halted the building of St
John’s, and the locals took cover in the
unfinished church.
The Pig and Whistle has been in the
middle of the centre ofthe universe since
1932. It’s the oldest continuously licensed
pub inthe country.“I’m not sure where
the universe slogan comes from, but The
Pig copyrighted ‘No thirst like Bathurst’,”
co-owner Gavin Came adds while
ordering adrink at The Bathurst Arms
across the road.
“We have atalented group of people
here: Rhodes professors, musicians and
artists. Ceramicist Richard Pullen makes
these upside-down saltshakers –the Ever
Dry Salt Cellar. They are worth an article
all bythemselves. Many people have
written about Bathurst, but these articles
struggle to capture the essence ofthe
entire place and its people.”
Iclearly have my work cut out for me.
How doyou portray atiny town ofcosmic
proportions? The Farmers’ Market seems
like agood place tostart …
MINGLEATTHE MARKET
Every Sunday from 9amtill 12:30 pm
entrepreneurs gather in agarden just
east of the village centre. If you drive past
The Big Pineapple –at16,7 m,the tallest
man-made pineapple in the world –you’ve
gone too far.
Farmers and crafters are spread out in
the Thomas clan’s garden, peddling their
fresh produce and hand-made products
ThePig and
WhistleInn
En routetothe
Waters Meeting
NatureReserve
TheBathurst
Arms
Lieslvan
Zylatthe
Farmers’
Market
“I’m not sure wherethe universe slogan comesfrom,
butthe Pigcopyrighted ‘NothirstlikeBathurst’,
”co-ownerGavin Came adds whileorderingadrink.
AATraveller | WINTER 2022

Horseshoe
viewpoint
Bradshaw'sMill
like nougat, knives and herbal ointments.
In the back ofthe property, you’ll find
Sandra Thomas, her husband, Brian, and
their chocolate labrador, Borris, selling
breakfast and hot drinks next toSandra’s
art studio, Just Off Centre.
Liesl van Zyl helps out at the stall and
hands over the last pancake. “You do know
why it’s called the centre ofthe universe,
right? Because you can find the best of
the best here. Pancakes, coffee, ice-cream,
koeksisters, cheese, live music and natural
therapies. She hands me her business card
for equine-facilitated psychotherapy. “Oh,
and don’t forget the artists!”
Afew metres down the road, awardwinning
master potter Richard Pullen
is hard at work behind the wheel. When
freelance artist and illustrator, Tori Stowe,
isn't designing homeware for Woolworths,
she isillustrating children's books and
producing ceramics, drawings and fabrics
with her team atThe Corner Gallery.
Then there’s Sandra, with her intricate
pencil and oil masterpieces of local flora.
“These are all scenes of the Albany
thicket. Ilove walking on the commonage
and along the Lushington River. Iam
going toWaters Meeting Nature Reserve
next week to get more inspiration,
especially now with the season changing
to autumn. Painting all these leaves can
drive one crazy. Dot, dot, dot, dot …” she
cackles. “I feel more comfortable inthe
bush, than in the pub”.
OFFTHE BEATEN TRACK
Itook Sandra’s advice and ditched the
bar for the bush. Waters Meeting Nature
Reserveisa4,4 km drive along adirt road,
starting from the four-way intersection in
the centre oftown.
From Horseshoe Viewpoint, you can
watch the Kowie River carveaUthrough
the landscape. The river’s fresh water
and the ocean’s salty currents meet in the
eponymous reserve.
Heading back totown, arustic building
with abig bell and arch pops up next
to the road. In front ofalong stoep,
next to abench with the word “rest” on
it, two signs dangle from apost: The >
43
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

Weekend away
44
Halfstar Hobo Hotel and Sleep ’n Shower
(046 625 0235).
“This was ashop built in the 1800s. The
Sleep ’nShower room was the butchery,”
owner Jon Pieters explains as we enter
acosy ensuite room with afireplace,
vintage feel and adoor leading onto the
stoep. “There are two single beds in here,
but ifwenotice acouple glancing at each
other lovingly, wepush the beds together”.
The Halfstar Hobo Hotel is at the
back of the property –asmall Wendy
house with seven beds, abathroom
and kitchenette. Next tothe hotel isa
colourful gypsy caravan.
“We were known as the donkey people.
We used to travel on the Eastern Cape’s
backroads. The donkey cart has abed, a
retractable table, two seats, solar power, a
gas stove, aside tent and achicken coop
for two hens”.
Jon is clearly aman of many talents. He
was adetective and criminologist back
in the day, heworks asablacksmith at
the Bathurst Agricultural Museum, and
he also helped build the hiking routes at
Waters Meeting.
“I built the ablutions and the jetty
for the Kowie Canoe and Hiking Trail.
You can see the hut from the Horseshoe
Viewpoint. People row 21 km from Port
Alfred –upthe river when the tide comes
in and back tothe beach when the tide
goes out.”
EBBAND FLOW
The village has its own ebb and flow, with
visitors rushing topubs, galleries and
shops over weekends and holidays. Late
Sunday afternoons the cars empty out and
the cows reclaim their road.
It seems quiet, but head over to The
Bathurst Arms and you’ll find many locals
at the open mic night. AntRose takes
the stage while his dog, Hippie, strolls
through the audience for head pats and
belly rubs.
Walk in here in your Sunday best and
you will stand out like asore thumb. I
order abeer, grab acouch near the stage
and chat toalocal who has lived here
for decades.
Eighty-something-year-old Les Pook
takes aseat next tome. He points to the
stage and tells mehow Anthelped him
after anaccident which left him with a
broken neck. “People look after each
other here,” he smiles.
The Arms caters tothe locals with its
weekly karaoke, darts and cocktail nights.
The Pig’s stoep isasprightly affair over
weekends, with live music filling York
Road while you munch onatraditional
Sunday roast. You can even enjoy the
performance from Pizza Place across
the road.
If you’ve had enough of pub grub, stroll
300 mdown the R67 to Lara’s Eatery &
Deli. Asmall brown dog named Saffron
welcomes you to amenu ofeggs benedict,
pork belly, mussel curry orgrilled sole.
On Mondays, Lara Krull hosts Follow the
Smoke: amixed grill with abuffet of veg
and salad.
End your day of indulgence at Lucky
Bean Cafe for astrong brew and
homemade ice-cream. “Ihave often been
accused ofbeing heavy handed with the
rum and raisin, but noone has moaned
about it yet,” Mark Blair laughs.
He has lived in Bathurst for eight
years now. “Why, you ask? Sometimes the
universe just guides you, plonks your ass
down and says ‘That’s it’.”
Iask for ascoop of the
assaulted black assassin –
dark chocolate gelato with
salted caramel sauce, peanut
butter and toasted peanuts
–and one Malty Amazeballs:
chopped up Whispers gently
mixed into afull-cream
Horlicks base. I’ll leave the
candied bacon and scotch for
my next visit.
I’m frantically gobbling
and licking at the dark
decadence flowing down the
cone and onto myhands.
“Each flavour takes some
time to develop. The ratio of
fat tosugar to cream doesn't
just happen overnight,”
Mark explains, handing me
aserviette.
Maybe that’s the secret to
Bathurst. Acosmic chemistry
of an interesting past with
peculiar places and people
mixed together, leaving you
with an explosion of perfectly
balanced flavours.
KingstonFarm
Lara's Eatery
andDeli
Just OffCentre
Bathurst Veggies
AATraveller | WINTER 2022

No.6YorkRoad
GOOD
TO
KNOW
TheCorner
Gallery
Hensoutside
the agricultural
museum
RichardPullen
Bathurst Market
HOWTOGET THERE
Bathurst is 40 km from
Makhanda and16km
from Port Alfred via
theR67.The closest
airport is 140kmawayin
East London.
WHERETOSTAY
KingstonFarm is a
workingAppaloosa
horsestud4km from
town,withabeautifully
renovatedEdwardian
farmhouse. Thereare
threeself-catering
apartments with fully
equipped kitchens and
en suitebathrooms.
“While we were
decorating, we stayed
at loadsofgame
farms, andtheyall
startedlooking the
same.The furnitureis
oversized,and nothing
is personal. We decided
to do theopposite,” says
Fred Bright.
CarlaBrightisa
trained chef,and her
restaurant is open for
theirovernight guests,
functionsand Sunday
lunches. Shemixes
Swissand German
dishes with English
cuisine. Theirsignature
dish is beefwellington.
TheBrights also own
an online farm shop
called iGadiMarket,
wheretheyselllocal
producelikeWagyu beef,
vegetables andbeauty
products.“Everythingis
sourced40kmfromour
farm,and we deliverto
customers within this
radius,” Carlaexplains.
Accommodationcosts
from R650 pp with
breakfast included.
kingstonfarm.co.za,
igadimarket.co.za,
083262 4813
6YorkRoad is bang in
thecentreofthe village,
opposite TheVillage
GreenComplexwhere
you’ll find TheBathurst
Arms,Zee Delicious
Kitchenand theRelix &
Thingz antiqueshop. Pat
andNeville Lanceoffer
twoensuite roomsin
theirmainhouse,with
private entrances and
off-street parking.
Nevilleisa
professional
photographer andoffers
one-tothree-night
photographycourses
or "photostays".He’ll
teach youthe basics of
photography, howto
useyourcameraand go
onguidedfieldshoots
with you.
Accommodationcosts
R650 perroomper night,
sleepingtwo people.
Breakfastisanoptional
extraatR85 pp,and they
offer dinner too.
bathurststay.com,084
0155644, 084806 0070
PLACES TO SEE
TheWatersMeeting
Nature Reserve is open
from8amtill4pm.
They haveanintricate
paymentsystem,with
entrance costingR13
andviewpoints, picnic
sitesorhiking trails
costingextra.Wepaid
R39toenter andvisit the
HorseshoeViewpoint.
076423 3492
Bradshaw’sMill is
on theway to Waters
Meeting andwas built
between1821and
1829 by theBradshaw
brothers, whowere
weaversbytrade.Itis
thefirst andonlywater
powered woollentextile
mill in SouthAfricaand
is seen as thestarting
point of ourwoollen
textileindustry.
Afterthe Mill burnt
down during theSixth
Frontier War, it was
rebuilt as agrain mill
by Philip Hobbs in 1835.
Hobbspassedaway
in 1869 andinthe late
1870s,his sons moved
away.There areno
traces of what happened
to thesecond wheel,
possibly madeofiron
or steel, andthe third
andcurrent wheelwas
installedfrom1978 to
1981 by localenthusiasts
whilethe building was
also renovated.
Now, Bradshaw’s Mill
is managedbyHistoric
Bathurst,anNPO aiming
to preserve andpromote
theculturalhistory of
thevillage forthe benefit
of allits people.Itcosts
R40per adult, R20
perchild andR25 for
pensioners to view the
mill.076 2946516
EVENTS
Thetownhosts astring
ofeventsthroughout
theyear: TheBathurst
Agricultural Show (1-3
April); TheBathurst
Book Fair (1 May); The
Bathurst DogShow
(2 July); Christmasin
July (29-31 July); The
Bathurst CountryAffair
(6-7 August)and Music
at Bradshaw's Mill
with Historic Bathurst:
Heritage weekend in
September.
45
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

46
THE
CAMINO DE
SANTIAGO
Thepilgrimageroute that
finishesatthe cathedralin
Santiago de Compostela is
probablythe most popular
amongstmodern-day
pilgrims. In 2019,about
250000 peoplereached the
cathedral(traditionallythe
final destination). Most hikers
traversethe French route,
whichstartsinStJean Pied
de Port (inFrance). However,
thereare severalother routes
thatyou cantake.
BY GERDAENGELBRECHT
1
TheFrenchCamino
St JeanPiedde
Port to Santiagode
Compostela
(764 km,33+ days)
Theexcellent infrastructure is one
of themain reasonswhy thisroute
is currently themostpopular in
Europe.Mostpilgrimscompleteit
in about33days, butyou candecide
howmuch of theroute youwant
to hike based on your abilities. If
youcan’t getoff work for33days,
consider starting at thetownof
Léon(330kmfromSantiago;about
14 hiking days), or hike thelast
100kmfromthe town of Sarria. If
you'reonlygoing to do aCamino
onceinyourlife, do this one. Some
of theinteresting placealong the
wayincludePamplona, thetown
in whichthe annual Runningof
theBulls takesplace,and Burgos.
Ponferradaishometoachurchthat
oncebelongedthe KnightsTemplar.
2
ThePortugueseRoute
Lisbon to Santiagode
Compostela
(620km, 25+days)
Pilgrims from theIberian Peninsula
(modern-dayPortugal) have been
usingthisold Romanroadtoreach
Santiago sincethe 2ndcentury.
This is theroute that most pilgrims
follow in Portugaltoday.Ifyou don’t
have enough time to hike thewhole
route, startinthe port city of Porto
(250 km from Santiago). From here
youcan choose to follow theroute
that goes inlandorthe one along
thecoast.Pontevedraisahighlight.
3
Camino delNorte
Irún to Santiago
de Compostela
(824 km,34+ days)
Also knownasthe Camino de la
Costa(thecoastal route),ittakes
youthrough severalprettySpanish
townslikeSan Sebastian(home to
severalMichelinStarrestaurants),
Bilbao, Santanderand Gijón. This
routewas apparently theone used
by Europeanroyalty. It’s also the
Camino with themostmountain
crossings–ideal forthose who
want an added challenge.
THE CAMINO
DE ... WHAT?
You’ve heardofthe Camino de Santiago butwhatabout the
ViaPodiensis or theVia Francigena?Hereisaguidetosome
of themostpopular pilgrimageroutesinEurope. In the
spring issue,we’ll featureGreat Britain'slong-distancehikes.

Muxia
Finesterre
10
Cee
Ferrol
Coruna
Santiago de Compostela
Pontevedra
Porto
4
Ourense
Lugo
Sarria
6
PORTUGAL
5
Atlantic Ocean
Gijón
Oviedo
Ponferrada León
Astorga
8
Granja de Moreruela
3
Satander
Burgos
Bilbao
1
SPAIN
Irún
SanSebastian
Pamplona
FRANCE
St Jean Pied de Port
Hiking
Pyrenees
Avila
MADRID
2
Toledo
9
Valencia
LISBON
7
100 km
Seville
Mediterranean Sea
47
4 5
Camino Inglis
Ferrol or Coruna to
Santiago de Compostela
(119 km,6days)
This routedates back to theMiddle Ages,and it was
frequented by pilgrims from what is nowmoderndayEngland.Theywould
firstsailtothe port citiesof
Ferrol andCoruna, from wheretheywould continued
on to Santiago.
CaminoPrimitivo
Oviedo to Santiago(313km, 14 days)
This “primitive route” is thefirst,
original Camino de Santiago
route. In 813, shortlyafter the
tomb of St Jameswas discovered
in Santiago,Alfonso II,the king
of Galicia,walkedfromthe town
of Asturias to thetomb. On his
arrival, he proclaimed that a
cathedralshouldbebuilt where
theremains couldbeburied.
Today, acathedral stillstands
at thesite. If thehistory of the
Camino is importanttoyou,hike
thisroute.The walled city of Lugo
with itsstunning architecture is a
highlight.
>
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

Hiking
7
48
6
CaminoInvierno
Ponferrada to Santiago
de Compostela
(262 km,about10days)
This Camino,alsocalledthe winter
route, is in thesameregionasthe
French route, butgoesthrough
theSil Valley to circumvent the
Ponferradaand Santiago mountain
ranges. This wasnecessary
during theMiddle Ages because
snow madethese mountains
untraversable. This routewas only
recently rediscovered by pilgrims
when documentswritten by a
bishopfromAstorga described the
route. Sincethisisarelatively “new”
route, thereislittleinfrastructure
alongthe way, andthiswillforce
youtohike30kmstintsbetween
towns. Butit’saquiet route, so
it’s agoodoptionifyou’reworried
that thetraditionalrouteswillbe
toobusy.
ViadelaPlata
Seville to Santiago
(960 km,40+ days)
At 960km, this is oneofthe longest
Caminos. Theroute starts in
Seville. It’s oftenreferredtoasthe
“silverroute”because centuries
ago, it wasatrade routethat
connectmetal merchantsinthe
northofthe countrywiththose
in thesouth.Fromthe town of
Astorga, it followsthe same road
as theFrench route, or youcan
deviatefromthisroadand combine
it with theCamino Sanabres.Itgoes
past varioushistoricalsites andis
recommendfor thosewho long for
an authentic Camino experience.
8
Santiago
de Compostela
Lalín
Ourense
Sanabres Route
Granja de Moreruela
to Santiago
(367 km,14+ days)
This route, whichisalsoknown
as theMozarabic Way, is an
alternative to theVia de la Plata.
So,whenyou arrive in Granjade
Moreruela or Ourense, youcan
choose to continue on theVia de
la Plata, or follow theSanabres
route. Largestretches areon
theold Romanroads.Ourense
is aspa town,soyou canspend
an extranight theretotreat your
achingmuscles.
Pueblade
Sanabria
WHY DO THEY WALK
TO THIS SPECIFIC
SPANISHTOWN?
Accordinglegend, theremains
of St James, thedisciple whodid
missionaryworkinSpain and
Portugal afterJesus’resurrection,
wasburiedhere.(Santiagoisthe
Spanish name forJames.)Strange
lightsinthe nightsky revealedthe
burial sitetoasheep herder.“De
Compostela”means “fieldofstars”,
so thenameofthe town means
“James of theFieldofStars”in
Spanish. Asimplechapel wasbuilt
over St James’ tomb andlater a
cathedral.
Granja de la
Moreruela
Camino Levante
Valencia to Santiago
(about1300 km,
50+days)
As theCamino delNorte is known
as the“northern route”,thisroad
is called the“eastern route”.It
stretchesoverthe plainsofLa
Mancha,through Toledo andAvila
to Santiago de Compostela.It’snot
well marked,and thereislittlein
the wayofinfrastructure–you have
no choice but to spendlongdayson
the road betweentowns.
10
9
Santiago de Compostela
to Finisterre or Muxia
(90km, 3-4days)
This is theonlyCamino that doesn’t
endinSantiago.Itstartsatthe
cathedraland ends at thecoast –
Finisterre means“theend of the
world”.Centuries ago,pilgrimsadded
the90kmtopick up shells as proof
that they’ve completedthe pilgrimage.
It’s abeautiful route. If youdareto
take offevenmoretimefromwork,
add it to your Camino as an extra. The
coastaltownCee,about 12 km before
Finisterre,isahighlight.
AATraveller | WINTER 2022

THEITALIAN
PILGRIMROUTES
Italyhas severalstunning hiking route, like
thosethatlink thetowns along theAmalfi
coast.The land of wine and pastaisalso
home to twopilgrimageroutes.
UNITED
KINGDOM
LONDON
Canterbury
PARIS
NETHERLANDS
BRUSSELS
BELGIUM
GERMANY
0 65 130 260
Kilometres
PRAGUE
CZECHIA
FRANCE
BERN
SWITZERLAND
AUSTRIA
1
ITALY
SPAIN
TheVia Francesco
FlorencetoRome (550
km,about28days)
This routeisalsocalledthe Way
of St Francis,and runs past towns
andplacesthatare in some way
associated with St Francis of Assisi.
So,it’snot necessarilyaroute
that St Francis walked himself. (St
Francis did, however, complete
theCamino de Santiago.) Thetown
Assisi is oneofseveralhighlights
alongthe way.
Mediterranean Sea
2
SanGimignano
Siena
Florence
Viterbo
1
Assisi
ROME
TheVia Francigena
Canterbury to Rome (1 700km, 80 days)
In 880, bishop Sigeric “the Serious” from Canterbury,
England, walked this routetofetch hisceremonial scarffrom
thepopeinVatican City.Centuries later, it wasstill beingused
by merchantsand pilgrimsontheir waytoRome. Theofficial
startisatthe Canterbury CathedralinKent, England; you
then walk through partsofFranceand Switzerlandbefore
youessentially hikedownthe wholelengthofItaly.Sigeric
mapped his80-dayjourney,and youcan follow in hisown
footsteps. Fewpilgrimswalkthe wholeVia Francigena,but in
Italy theroute is well marked,and you’ll gopasticonictowns
like Siena, SanGimignano andViterbo.And thefoodalong the
wayisout of thisworld!
>
49
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

THEFRENCHCAMINOS
TheCodex Calixtinus,the centuriesold manuscript writtenbythe French pilgrimAymeric
Picaud circa 1140,not only mentions theSpanish townsalong theCamino,but also notes
four routes followedbyFrenchpilgrims to St Jean Pied de Port at thefootofthe Pyrenees
mountains.These routes startatArles,LePuy,Paris and Vézelay.
FRANCE
4
Orleans
PARYS
AUNESCOWORLD
HERITAGESITE:
You’re notaloneinwonderingwhy
there are so many routes that lead
to onecity. Theanswerissimple:
pilgrims fromall overEuropewanted
to traveltothe tomb of St James,
andthey setout on this journey from
their ownhomes, creatingnumerous
startingpointsand routes. In time,
some routesbecamemorepopular
than others.In1993,the Camino de
Santiago becameaUNESCO World
Heritage Site, whichincludedthe
popularFrenchCamino, andin2015,
this titlewenttothe Camino delNorte
andits variants,too.
3
Vézelay
Bourges
100 km
50
Atlantic
Ocean
Bordeaux
Limoges
2
Le Puy-en-Valey
Toulouse
Montpellier
1
Arles
St Jean Pied de Port
Puenta la Reina
SPAIN
Pyrenees
Mediterranean
Sea
AATraveller | WINTER 2022

Hiking
1
3
Sources: caminoways.com;caminoadventures.com; Camino SanabrésdeurJohnBrierley;The 50 Greatest
Walksofthe WorldbyBarry Stone;wikipedia. MapsbyFrancois Haasbroek
ViaTolosana
(Arles route)
ArlestoPuentala
ReinainSpain (about
700km, 32+days)
Theroute goes west in thedirection
of Toulouse;thenitturns south,
allowing pilgrims to crossthe
Pyrenees viathe SomportPass.
From Puenta la Reina, it followsthe
French Camino forabout another
750kmtoSantiago de Compostela.
2
Camino Le Puy
(Via Podiensis)
Le Puy-en-Velay to St
JeanPieddePort(736
km,30+ day)
This is averypopular route–and
it’sbreathtakingly beautiful.You
stay in an old Medieval town almost
every night. Thestartingpoint,Le
Puy, hasone of themostcaptivating
Camino traditions: pilgrims attend
massinthe cathedralat7am, after
whichthe doorsare thrownopen
andtheyset outontheir journey
with greatfanfare.Ofall theFrench
routes,itoffersthe best views...
just keep in mindthismeans you’ll
have to scaleseveralhills and
mountains!
ChemindeVézelay
(Via Lemovicensis)
VézelaytoStJeanPied
de Port (about
900km, 36+days)
This routestartsinthe Burgundy
region andisone of theoldest
Camino routes. Youcan choose to
walk through BourgesorNevers.
Thesedays, pilgrims have to walk
long stretchesalong theGR654,
but thereare attempts underway to
restore theoriginalroute.The city
Limogesisahighlight.
4
Chemin de Paris
(Via Turonensis)
ParistoStJeanPiedde
Port (913 km,
37+days)
Have younoticedthe famous
Camino shellonthe sidewalk in
frontofthe Notre-Dame Cathedral
in Paris? This is thestart of the
ParisRoute.Traditionally, pilgrims
from othercountries used this
route, butithas fallen into disuse in
recentdecades. It’s notwell
marked,but thereare projects in
theworks to reviveit. It ends in St
Jean Pied de Port, which is on the
French Camino.
WHAT’SWITH ALL
THESHELLS?
Youoften seepilgrimswearing awhite
scallop shell on theirbackpacksoraround
their necks, andthese shellsalsoadorn
theroutemarkers alongthe way. In the
Middle Ages,pilgrimswouldcollect scallop
shellsonthe beachesofFinisterre,and
for centuries, pilgrims haveuseditto
identifyeach other on theCamino. The
different linesonthe shell symbolise the
differentroutes that allend at Santiagode
Compostela.These days, youdon’t haveto
head to thebeach to pick up your shell.You
canbuy onefor less than €1atapilgrim
officesorsouvenir shopsalong theway.
TheAbbeyofSaint Gilles
Le Puy-en-Valey
Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Portin
France
51
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

Janine
andStefan
Schoombie
Dr Anton
Wolfaardt
Agrey-headed
albatrosscolony
on Marion Island
Saving Myion
52
FROM MICE
This island’s seabirds arefacingadirethreatinthe form of house
mice thatare attackingand feedingonhelplesschicks. Butthere
areplans in theworks to ridthe isle of this pest.Science writer
EngelaDuvenage spoketoexperts to findout how.
AATraveller | WINTER 2022

Science
Some images arealmosttoo
horribletowatch.Likethe one
on YouTube of atinybrown
mousefeedingoffthe topofthe
bloodied, rawheadofadowny,
white albatrosschick.One that is stillvery
muchalive.
The sightofthe gnawingmouse,not
muchbigger than one’s indexfinger,and
theturkey-sized seabird tooyoungtoset
flightfromits grassy nest is notfor the
faint-hearted.
The footagewas takenin2015byDr
Stefan Schoombie andhis wife, Janine,
whiletheywerepartofthe annual
overwinteringexpeditionofSouth African
researcherstothe 29 000-hectare Marion
Island in the Subantarctic Southern Ocean.
Givenhalfthe chance,the selfproclaimed
Marion “junkies” wouldprobably
happilyset up their home office there.
Theystill vividlyremember thedark,
cloudy nightwhen theyshotthe YouTube
footage. Therodentand itsmates were
unperturbed by theirpresenceand the
bright lights theyhad brought along.
“Weexpectedthattheywould scurry
away the moment we switchedonthe
lights,but it didnot happen,”saysthe
Schoombies, whoshothalfanhour’sworth
of footagethatnight.
This wasunfortunately notanisolated
incident.The first reportsofmouse attacks
on seabird chicks date back to 2003.The
Schoombieswerethe first to photograph
Twowandering
albatrosses
‘dance’onthe
island.
Awandering
albatrossand chick
such agraphic attack.
The couple have since become mice
attack experts, andStefanhas also filmed
mice in the undergroundnests of some
seabirdspecies.
“Typically,theyjump onto achick’s back,
andthen startbitingbetween thewings.It’s
difficulttosee such wounds in older birds
because[the wounds]are coveredwith
theirwings.You only startseeingthe injury
once blood oozesalong theirsides and
down theirdowny feathers.
“Overthe course of afew nights,mice
will keep on returningtoachick, untilit
eventually dies of pain andexhaustion.”
Theyexplain that albatrosschicks
generallyonlyleave the nest abouteight
An injuredgrey-headed albatrossfledgling
AMarionmouse
to nine monthsafter hatching. Before then,
theyare unabletoflyand only have their
20 cm beaksasdefence.
They aresittingsducks
To tryand ward off attacksbygiantpetrels,
the youngsters oftenspewafoul-smelling
oilout of their gut. It’s basicallyleftovers
of the food theyhavebeenfed.Theycan
send the substanceflyingupto2maway.
Unfortunately,doing so canattract more
would-be attackers, andit’soflittlevalue
against ascurryingmouse.Ifitlands on
the fledgling’s feathers it candamage its
waterproofing.
Evolutionand adaptiondonot happen
overnight, andafter twodecades of
reported mice attacks, the nest-boundbirds
candolittleelsethan shake their headsina
feeble attempttowardthe critters off.
“Aninjured bird canonlydothatfor so
long untilitdiesofexhaustion andpain. It’s
as if theyare eatenalive.
“It’sdifficult nottointerfere, yetonan
island such as Marion onehas to minimise
humaninfluenceasmuchaspossible.”
However, it’s exactlybecauseofhumans
that there’s amouse problem.They’ve
been on the islandsince at least1818.The
first were probably broughttoshoreafter a
shipwreckorinthe food stores andgear of
sealersand scientificexpeditions spending
time on the island.
>
53

Science
54
Amouse-freeMarion
Allisnot lost.Plans areunderwayfor a
major eradication projectinthe winterof
2024,saysDrAnton Wolfaardt, project
managerofthe Mouse-Free Marion Project,
apartnership betweenthe SouthAfrican
DepartmentofForestry, Fisheriesand the
Environmentand BirdLife SouthAfrica.
Fundingisbeing sought from avariety of
governmentaland privatesources.
Antonhas theunenviabletaskofheading
the logistical exercise of note,which is set
to be the biggestofits kind.
It will, among others, include shipping a
fleet of helicoptersand approximately 530
tons of bait pelletssouthwardsonthe SA
AgulhasII, SouthAfrica’sresearchvessel.
The bait will be systematically airdropped
acrossthe island.
“Thisisthe only methodsthathas proven
successfulineradicatingrodents from large
Subantarctic islands.
“The mice aremoredesperate for
food in winter,and do not
breed then,makingthem
moresusceptibleto
the baitingoperation
duringthisperiod.
There arealsofar
fewerbirds on the
island then.”
It’s notaMission
Impossible situation.
King penguins
on Marion Island
Sponsor a
hectare
Crowdfundingispartofthe
Mouse-Free MarionProject’s
effortstoraise the necessary
fundingfor the endeavour.
Youcan help by sponsoring
one hectareatR1000.Visit
mousefreemarion.org to learn
moreabout otherwaysyou
cancontribute.
Anortherngiant
petrel andchick
AccordingtoareportbyJohnParkes, a
leadingNew Zealandexpertonthe subject,
housemicehaveinrecentyears already
been eradicated successfullyfromatleast
62 islands worldwide.
Beingpartofthe projecthas allowed
Antontoreturn to his“islandroots”, so
to speak.The first job he took on after
completinghis undergraddegreewas
as aseabird researcher on Marion.
Subsequently,heworked on Dassen Island
off SouthAfrica’sWestCoast at the time
of the infamousMVTreasureoil
spillinthe early 2000sthat
sawthousandsofpenguins
beingevacuated.
Thereafter, he worked
forthe United Kingdom
Government as a
seabirdconservation
advisor forits South
Atlantic Overseas
Territories, includingthe Falkland Islands,
SouthGeorgia andTristan da Cunha.
In 2021, afteranabsenceof28years,
he returned to Marion Island on a
reconnaissancemission andwas struck by
howmuchdrier the islandhad become.
“Becauseofincreasinglywarmer
climates, the mice nowbreed forlonger.
Their numbersare increasing,”Anton notes.
Compared to the nearbynear-pristine
(and mouse-free)PrinceEdwardIsland,
the rodentshaveoverthe past200 years
impacted morethan justMarion’s two
million seabirds.Theyburrow into cushion
plants andhavesystematicallyconsumed
stores of seeds. They feed extensively
on indigenousinvertebratessuchas
weevilsand the endemic flightlessmoth–
important sources of food forseabirds such
as the lesser sheathbill.
Marionliesalong asouthern latitude that
many refertoas“the roaring forties” with
notoriouswindspeedsand days of rain
on end.
“The remote nature of the islandand the
inclementweather conditions, especially
duringwinter, make this ahighly
challengingoperation,” Antonadmits.“Our
planningneedstobemeticulousand
ensure that we have contingenciestocater
forthe worst-case scenario.Wealsohave
the benefit of buildingonand learning from
previous operationsonsimilar islands.”
Visitors to MarionIsland
ThePrinceEdwardIslands (ofwhichMarionIslandispart) area
sanctuaryfor breedingseabirdsinthe Southern Ocean.Populations
of 29 seabirdspeciesbreed here,totalling close to 2,5million birds. It
wasfirst discovered in 1663,and in 1803,the firstpeople setfootthere.
In 1776,the indominable adventurer CaptainJames Cook namedit,
together with aneighbouring island, Prince Edward Islands,after the
fourth sonofKingGeorgeIII of GreatBritain.PrinceEdwardwas nine
at thetimeand wouldlater become thefather of QueenVictoria. It was
annexedin1948bySouth Africa as part of OperationSnoektown.The
countryhas hadapermanent research missionthere forfivedecades.
Images: Michelle Risi, Janine Schoombie.Source: ThePrinceEdwardIslands:land-seainteractionsina
changing ecoystem (2008,SunPress) by StevenChown andPierreFroneman
AATraveller | WINTER 2022

Localentrepreneur
BY KIMARENDSE
Thebig
sweep
AISHAPANDOR
CEO&CO-FOUNDER
OF SWEEPSOUTH
Shegave up her nine-to-fivecorporate job
and sold her home –downtothe bedding!
–tomakeher entrepreneurialdream come
true. We chat to Aisha Pandor,the founder
of SweepSouth, an app thatletsyou
quicklyand easily book home cleaning,
maintenanceand childcareservices.
How does ascientist with adoctorate
in genetics becomeatech
entrepreneur?This soundslikethe
openingofsomewisecrack,but for
trailblazerAisha Pandor,it’ssimply
what’s on herCV.
Afteralove of science ledher
to do aPhD in humangenetics
at theUniversity of Cape Town
(UCT), sheadded amanagementdegreefromthe same
institution’s Graduate School of Business to herrepertoire
when herscientific research on unemploymentinSouth
Africa touchedanerve.
“WhenIbegan lookingatsomesocietalproblemsin
SouthAfrica, it tookmeawayfromhealthcareand to
thecountry’s most pressing issues, like unemployment
andeducation.Ifeltthatbusinesswould be away to
tryand solvesomeofthose issues,”Aisha,who became
thefirstUCT studenttograduateonthe same daywith
qualificationsfromtwo differentfaculties, tells us.
Then,whenher child’snanny had to take sudden leave
andshe wasleftwiththe surprisinglytough task of finding
astand-in, theideafor SweepSouth wasborn, launching
herintoentrepreneurial glory.
SweepSouth, thefirstofits kind in Africa, quickly
became thego-to online bookingplatformconnecting
domestic workerstohomes acrossSouth Africa, then
Kenya, Nigeriaand Egypt. >
55

Localentrepreneur
Sinceits launch in 2014,initially out
of herJohannesburg home,SweepSouth
hasfound workfor 30 000 people, most of
whom aremothersand primarycaregivers.
It filledamuch-needed gapinthe
market –consumersneeded vetted
domestic workersand nanniesand
thousandsofwomen with theseskillswere
without work –asAisha andher husband
andco-founder, Alen Ribic, discoveredfirst
hand.
56
SEEING AGAP IN THEMARKET
When thenanny to theirthenthreeyear-old
childannounced shewas taking
sudden leave,Aisha andAlenscrambled
tofind areferenced, experiencedand
availablenanny to fillthose shoes. Thetask
wasway more challenging than theparents
anticipated, andittookthemweeks to find
astand-in.
At thetime, Aishawas puttingher
business degree to useworkingasa
managementconsultantatalarge
multinational firmwhile Alen wasa
software developer“andfantastic futuristicic
thinker”saysAisha.
“Wethought,let’s buildawebsitewith a
basicschedulingsystemfor people looking
fordomesticworkand matchthemto
domestic workerslooking foremployment,”
shesays.
They realised they had theskill setto
really make this work andbothpromptly
left theircushy nine-to-fivejobs, livedoff
theirpension andsavings and“worked
togetherall dayaroundthe kitchentable,”
Aisha with some of
SweepSouth’s vetted
andexperienced
domestic workers.
“Myparents
impressedupon
us that we
should do work
that would
make achange.”
TOPENTREPRENEURSHIP
TIPS FROM AISHA:
•Workonproblemsyou feel
passionate aboutsolving.
•Findgreat partners in
businesswho complement
your skills and personality
andwho youcan trust.
•Everyone in business should
expect to failbut to also get
up again, so havinggood
mentorship is vital.
Aisharecalls.
“Wespent 15monthsbuildingand
launchingthe business andfunding it
ourselvesafter selling ourhomeand
everything in it –fromthe furniture to the
cutlery, crockery andeventhe bedding!”
BLOOD,SWEAT &TEARS
“Backthen(2014), ecommercewas gaining
traction in SouthAfrica, butpeople
werestill veryunsureofit,”Aisha recalls.
“Initially,itwas just Alen andmyselfdoing
everythingwecould to getthose first
bookings.Weharassedour neighbours
endlessly before they eventually gave us
achanceand Irememberstandingin
SandtonCitywithaclipboard trying to
convince people to sign up,evenoffering
AATraveller | WINTER 2022

Aisha with herhusband and
SweepSouthco-founder,Alen Ribic.
Alen hasabackground in computer
science andhelped engineer the
award-winning app.
Smalltalk
MOST RECENT HOLIDAY
DESTINATION: TheMaldives
TRAVEL BAGMUST-HAVES:
Comfortablepants and
shoes, moisturiser or balm
forhydration (I’vecarried the
same small tube of Elizabeth
ArdenEight Hour Creamfor
years!)and agood book.
FAVOURITE ADVENTURE:
Ilove asafari! Beingclose to
nature is always restoringand
areminderofhow important
it is to respect, protect
and appreciate thenatural
environment.
INSPIRING READ: Irecently
read ThePower Law by
SebastianMallaby.It’sabout
theevolution of venture
capitalinSilicon Valley and
how it helpedshapeand
grow some of thebiggest
companies in theworld.
SEEMORE: sweepsouth.com
SweepSouth offersdignified,
flexible work with decent payand
also offerdigital andfinancial
literacy benefits to staff.
Photos:supplied
free vouchers to trythe service.”
AndAisha recallsthe exactmomentshe
realised that theirentrepreneurial idea
would take off: shewas on her wayback
home from pickingupher daughter from
preschool andoutside of theirhomewas a
longqueue ofunemployed womenwho’d
heardabout heridea. “Itwas quiteasight
andreallyconfirmedthatthere wasabig
need forSweepSouth.”
MAKING AN IMPACT
AishagrewupinBotswanainafamily of
academicsand politicalactivists.
Her mother is Dr Naledi Pandor,South
Africa’s ministerofinternational relations
andcooperationand Aishacredits her
momand teacherfather, Sharif Pandor,
forher grit anddetermination to make a
positive impact.
“Myparents impresseduponusthatwe
should do work that wouldmakeachange.
It’s extremely gratifying to turn nothing
into something, particularly when that
somethingchangeslives forthe better,”
Aishasays. “Whenyou arepart of other
people’s personal andcareergrowth, that’s
reallymeaningful.”
SweepSouthoffersthe servicesof
vetted nannies, domestic cleaners,
gardenersand handymen.Theyare
nowa100-strongin-houseteammaking
everythingworkbehindthe scenes –this
includes operational team members,
marketers, engineersand finance and
administrativestaff.
“I’m proudtosay we areyoung,
energetic, smart anddriven,and ourteam
is diverse,withthe majority of ourcompany
beingfemaleand people from multiple
backgroundsand disciplines,”Aisha says.
NEXT ON THEAGENDA
“We’re lookingatother countriesonthe
continentwhere people experience the
same sort of issues we didwhen we first
came up with theideafor SweepSouth
–helpingthe unemployedconnect with
homesneedingtheir services –with
expansion into thoseareas.We’re also
lookingforward to rollingout new
products like bookingbeautyservicesand
maintenanceservicesvia ourapp,” Aisha
says.
57
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

Soup-er
Winter is soup season.Fromclassics
like chickennoodletoshowstoppers
like beetroot andgarlic, we have 11
mouthwatering recipesthatwillwarm
youupasthe temperaturedrops.
TIME
58
PEAAND SMOKED
HAM SOUP
AA AA Traveller traveller | WINTER | 2022020

Tip
Recipes
PEAAND SMOKED
HAM SOUP
Serves 6
Preparationtime 10 minutes
Cooking time 2hours
BROCCOLI AND
SPINACHSOUP
If youdon't want to
poach orshred the
whole chicken breasts,
you can simply dicethe
filletsand cook in the
soup.The cookingtime
will depend on thesize
of thechicken pieces.
1whole (1 kg) smoked ham
10 shallots orbaby onions,
peeled
water
30 ml (1 T) butter
3sage leaves
5ml(1t)ground cumin
500 gdried split peas
200 gfrozen peas
salt and pepper, totaste
1lemon
1 Preheat the oven to160°C.
Put the ham and shallots inan
oven-proof pot and half fill the
pot with water. Cover it with a
tight-fitting lid. Put the pot in
the oven for about 90minutes
or until the meat is tender and
easy to flake.
2 Melt the butter in apot and
fry the sage leaves and cumin
until flavoursome. Add the
split peas, 250 ml (2 c) water
and 250 ml (2 c) stock from the
ham pot.
3 Simmer for 30minutes. Ifthe
soup is too salty, add more
water. Add more stock if it
needs more flavour.
4 Add the frozen peas to the
soup and simmer until the
peas are cooked through. Add
salt and pepper to taste. Add
grated lemon peel and lemon
juice to the soup.
5 Serve with thick slices of
smoked ham.
BROCCOLI ANDSPINACH
SOUP
Serves 4
Preparationtime 25 minutes
Cooking time 30 minutes
1spinach bunch, washed
1broccoli head
30 ml (2 T) butter
15 ml (1 T) olive oil
1garlic clove, chopped
15 ml (1 T) flour
500 ml(2c)chicken stock
250 ml(1c)milk
nutmeg to taste
1camembert cheese, sliced
croutons, toserve
1 Remove the stems from
the spinach leaves and finely
chop the stems. Keep the
leaves aside. Cut the broccoli
florets from the stem, keep the
florets aside and finely chop
the stem. Melt the butter and
oil and fry the spinach and
broccoli stems for 5minutes,
until flavoursome.
2 Stir in the garlic and flour and
cook for another minute. Add
the stock and milk and whisk
until well combined. Bring toa
BUDGETCHICKEN
SOUP
boil, lower the heat and
simmer for 15minutes.
3 Roughly chop the broccoli
florets and spinach leaves and
add to the soup, season with
salt, pepper and nutmeg to
taste. Simmer for 5minutes
and blitz the soup with astick
blender. Ifthe soup is too
thick, add stock.
4 Serve hot with aslice or two
of cheese and crispy croutons.
Garnish with garlic flowers or
chopped spring onions.
BUDGET CHICKENSOUP
Serves 6
Preparationtime 20 minutes
Cooking time 1hour
250 ml(1c)dry soup mix,
rinsed
1,25 l(5 c) chicken stock
30 ml (2 T) olive oil
knob of butter
1onion, chopped
2carrots, chopped
2celery stalks, chopped
3potatoes, diced
3chicken breast fillets
handful of fresh parsley,
chopped
lemon juice totaste
1 In asoup or stock pot, add
the soup mix and stock; bring
to aboil. Lower the heat and
simmer for 30minutes.
2 Heat the oil and butter in a
pan and fry the onions, carrots
and celery until soft.
3 Add the cooked vegetables,
potatoes and chicken to
the soup and simmer for
10 minutes.
4 Remove the chicken and
shred the meat. Return the
chicken tothe soup and add
the parsley and lemon juice
and season to taste. Simmer
for 10minutes. Serve hot. >
59
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

ROASTEDVEGETABLE SOUP WITH LAMB NECK ANDBEANS
CHICKEN NOODLESOUP
SPANISHMEATBALL SOUP
Tip
This soup is agood
alternative to apotjie if
you’re pressedfor time.
Freezethe raw meatballs at
home andjust pop them into
thesoup. Don’tlet thechilli
scareyou off–it adds
moreflavour than
heat.
60
ROASTEDVEGETABLE
SOUP WITH LAMB NECK
ANDBEANS
Serves 6
Preparation time 10 minutes
Cooking time 2½ hours
1kglamb neck
500 gbeans, soaked
overnight
400 gmixed fresh vegetables
(broccoli, green beans and
baby marrows)
2onions, sliced
4whole cloves ofgarlic
30 ml (2 T) olive oil
2–3 l(8–12 c) water
1cube vegetable stock
salt and pepper, totaste
1 Preheat the oven to150°C.
Add the meat to abig flatbottomed,
oven-proof pot.
Add the beans, cover with
water and put the lid on. Bring
the pot toaboil onthe stove
and then put itinthe oven for
about 2hours.
2 Put the vegetables, onions
and garlic on abaking sheet
and drizzle with olive oil. Roast
for about 20 –30minutes at
150°C. Turn the vegetables
over once and make sure
nothing gets burnt.
3 The meat should fall from
the bone after 2hours.
Remove all the bones. Chop
the vegetables finely, peel
the garlic cloves and add
everything to the meat pot
with the stock cube. Add more
water ifneeded. Return the pot
to the oven for 20minutes.
4 Add salt and black pepper to
taste and serve hot.
SPANISHMEATBALL
SOUP
Serves 4
Preparation time 20 minutes
Cooking time 40 minutes
Forthe meatballs
300 gbeef mince
200 gpork mince
60 ml (¼ c) uncooked rice
1slice brown bread
15 ml (1 T) coriander leaves
1egg, beaten
5ml(1t)salt
1,25 ml(¼t)ground black
pepper
1,25 ml(¼t)ground cumin
1,25 ml(¼t)chilli flakes
2,5 ml(½t)salt
Forthe soup
15 ml (1 T) olive oil
1onion, finely chopped
2carrots, finely chopped
2celery sticks, finely chopped
2cloves ofgarlic, finely
chopped
45 ml (3 T) tomato paste
5ml(1t)smoked paprika
1,25 ml(¼t)chilli flakes
1sweet potato, cut into small
cubes
½butternut, cut into small
cubes
1–1,5 l(4–6 c) beef or chicken
stock
juice of ½lemon
1 Combine all the ingredients
for the meatballs. Form
tablespoon-sized balls and put
them on aplate in the fridge
until firm.
2 Prepare the soup in the
meantime: Heat the olive oil in
abig pot and sweat the onion,
carrots and celery over alow
heat for 10minutes, or until
tender.
3 Add the rest of the
ingredients except the lemon
juice and simmer. Add the
meatballs tothe soup, put the
lid onand simmer for about
30 minutes over alow heat
until the vegetables are tender
and the meatballs are cooked
through.
4 Stir the lemon juice into the
soup before serving.
CHICKENNOODLESOUP
Serves 4
Preparation time 10 minutes
AA Traveller | WINTER 2022

Recipes
BEEF ANDBARLEYSOUP
CREAMY MUSSELAND CORN SOUP
Cooking time 30 minutes
15 ml (1 T) each butter and oil
1large onion, finely chopped
1carrot, finely chopped
2celerystalks, finely chopped
1,5 l(6 c) chicken stock
2bay leaves
4deboned chicken breasts
250 ml(1c)conchigliette
(shell) pasta
Lemon and basil leaves, to
garnish
1 In alarge pot, heat the butter
and oil. Sweat the vegetables
until tender (about 10 minutes).
Add the stock, bay leaves and
whole chicken breasts and
simmer for 10minutes.
2 Remove the chicken from
the soup and shred the meat.
Return the shredded chicken
to the soup and add the pasta.
Cook for 10 minutes, until the
pasta isjust done. Add stock if
the soup gets too thick. Serve
the soup warm with adash of
lemon juice and acouple of
basil leaves.
BEEFAND BARLEY SOUP
Serves 6
Preparation time 10 minutes
Cooking time 2hours
30 ml (2 T) olive oil
1onion, chopped
3celery stalks, chopped
2cloves ofgarlic, finely
chopped
250 ml(1c)red wine
700 gbeef chuck, on the bone
250 gportabellini mushrooms
5ml(1t)fresh rosemary, finely
chopped
1bay leaf
1can (410 g) chopped
tomatoes
2l(8c)beef stock
250 ml(1c)pearl barley
1l(4c)water
salt, totaste
1 Add oil to alarge pot. Sauté
the onion, celery and garlic
until soft.
2 Add the red wine and
simmer on ahigh heat for
5minutes. Add the chuck,
mushrooms, rosemary and bay
leaf and stir for afew minutes.
3 Add the tomatoes, stock and
barley. Bring the soup to aboil.
Lower the heat and simmer
for about 2hours. Remove
the chuck from the soup and
remove the bones. Cut up the
meat and return it to the soup.
4 Add water until you have the
desired thickness. Heat the
soup and add salt to taste.
CREAMY MUSSEL AND
CORN SOUP
Serves 4
Preparation time 15 minutes
Cooking time 30 minutes
30 ml (2 T) garlic butter
125 ml(½c)white wine
1kghalf shell mussels,
defrosted
15 ml (1 T) olive oil
1chilli, seeded and diced
1red pepper, diced
5ml(1t) flour
250 gfrozen sweet corn
kernels
about 500 ml quality stock
250 ml(1c)cream
60 ml (¼ c) fresh coriander
1 In apot with atight-fitting lid,
heat the garlic butter and wine
until boiling. Add the mussels,
pop onthe lid and turn off the
heat. Steam for five minutes.
2 In adifferent pot, heat the oil
and sauté the chilli and pepper
for afew minutes. Stir inthe
flour and sweet corn and add
the stock. Cook for 5minutes.
3 Lower the heat and add the
steamed mussels and cooking
fluid to the second pot. Pour
in the cream, coriander, salt
and pepper. Cook until heated
through. Serve with fresh
bread.
>
61
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

Recipes
62
PRAWNLAKSA
Serves 6
Preparation 30 minutes
Cooking time 25 minutes
Forthe paste
3lemon grass stalks, tough
outer leave removed
2red chillies, deseeded
1thumb-sized piece of fresh
ginger
5ml(1t)shrimp paste
3shallots, peeled and finely
diced
3large garlic cloves
60 ml (¼ c) peanut oil
5ml(1t)turmeric
handful of coriander leaves
60 ml (¼ c) tamarind paste
Forthe soup
30 ml (2 T) peanut orolive oil
1lvegetable stock
60 ml (¼ c) fish sauce
handful coriander leaves,
roughly chopped
200 gprawns, peeled
300 glinefish, cut into bitesized
pieces
1large can coconut milk
1pack medium-thick rice
noodles, cooked
1 To make the paste, add
all the ingredients toafood
processor and pulse until it
PRAWNLAKSA
Fact
Laksameans"10 000"
or "many"because the
soup containsseveral
ingredients.This
flavourful soupfrom
Southeast Asia can also
be madewith chicken
insteadofseafood.
forms asmooth paste. Spoon
the paste into aglass container
(plastic will discolour) and
store inthe fridge until
needed.
2 For the soup, heat the oil
over medium heat inawok
or alarge pot. Add 250 ml (1
c) of the paste and cook of
about 2minutes. Check that it
doesn't burn.
3 Add the stock, fish sauce
and herbs and bring to a
boil. Lower the heat, add the
prawns and fish and cook until
just done. Add the coconut
milk and cook until heated
through.
4 To serve, divide the noodles
between the serving bowls
and spoon over the soup.
Garnish with any combination
of the following: deep-fried
tofu pieces, chopped chillies,
cucumber ribbons, roasted
peanuts, fresh coriander or
basil leaves, hard-boiled eggs,
halved.
BEETROOTSOUP WITH
GARLIC
Serves 6
Preparation 20 minutes
Cooking time 35 minutes
Forthe soup
30 ml (2 T) olive oil
1large fennel bulb, chopped
(if there are any leaves onthe
stem, keep them aside for
garnishing)
1large carrot, peeled and
chopped
3garlic cloves, chopped
1cmginger, peeled and
grated
1kgbeetroot, peeled and
cubed
1large potato, cubed
1,25 l(5c)stock
Forgarnishing
250 ml(1c)sour cream
1,25 ml(¼t)fresh turmeric,
grated
30 ml (2 T) horseradish,
BEETROOT SOUP
WITH GARLIC
peeled
milk, asneeded
lemon zest, to taste
thin potato sticks (optional)
1 Pour the olive oil into alarge
pot over medium heat. When
heated, cook the fennel and
carrot until the vegetables
are soft. Stir in the garlic
and ginger and cook for
another minute.
2 Add the beetroot, potato and
stock and simmer for about 30
minutes. Blitz the soup with a
stick blender –itneeds tobe
quite thick but velvety smooth.
3 Mix the sour cream, turmeric
and horseradish. Season to
taste and thin with alittle milk -
the cream should berunny.
4 Dish the soup into bowls
and spoon the cream ontop.
Garnish with the fennel leaves
and add ahandful of potato
sticks to add some crunch.
RecipesbyAlettaLintveltand Johané Neilson.Photos: Myburgh du Plessis,Francois Oberholster,Francois Parkin and supplied.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2022

Recipes
CHEDDAR ANDBEER SOUP
Serves 4–6
Preparation time 10 minutes
Cooking time 20 minutes
60 ml (¼ c) butter
1long celery stalk, finely chopped
1large carrot,peeledand chopped
1small onion, finelychopped
2clovesofgarlic,crushed
2jalapeño peppers,seeded and
finelychopped
60 ml (¼ c) flour
250 ml (1 c) beer(we usedlager)
250 ml (1 c) chickenstock
1bay leaf
7,5ml(1½T) cuminseeds, dryroastedinapan
3sprigsofthyme
salt andblack pepper
125ml(½c)cream
125ml(½c)milk
650mlgratedwhite cheddar
2big, roundloavesofbread or 6
roundbread rolls
4chives, chopped
6strips of bacon, frieduntil crisp
Tip
This is athickand
creamy soup.After
you’ve had the last
spoonful,you can eat
thebread roll you
served it in,too!
1 Melt the butter and fry the celery,
carrot, onion, garlic and pepper
until soft. Add the flour and cook for
another 2-3 minutes.
2 Remove from the heat and add the
beer little bylittle, stirring frequently
to prevent clots from forming.
3 Return the pot tothe heat and add
the stock, bay leaf, cumin and thyme.
Season with salt and pepper and
simmer for 10minutes.
4 Remove the bay leaf and thyme.
Add the cream and milk and use a
stick blender to blend the soup until
smooth. Keep onthe heat until heated
through but don't allow the soup to
boil. Stir the cheese through the soup.
5 Slice offthe top ofthe bread and
hollow out the inside. Keep the sides
thick enough sothat the soup doesn't
seep out. Spoon the soup into the
bread and serve with chopped chives,
crispy bacon and pieces ofthe
hollowed out bread for dipping.
63

COSY READS
FOR COLD
WINTERNIGHTS
Anew murder mysteryset in theKlein Karooand afascinating book
about thehistory of librarieswillwarmyou heartinthe coming months.
64
TheMilkTartMurders –ATannieMaria
Mystery BY SALLYANDREW
Who knew aMarilyn Monroe movie
could kill you? When Oom Frik ofOom
Frik’s Fantastiques dies during avintage
movie screening in Ladismith, Tannie
Maria and her police officer boyfriend,
Henk, are onthe scene. At90, it could
have been natural causes that killed
Oom Frik, but shortly before his death,
the grumpy old
man insisted
that somebody
was moving
stuff around his
house. And then
there are those
rumours around
the valuable
treasure that’s
hidden inhis
antique shop.
Tannie Maria is no
private detective;
she writes a
regular agony
aunt column for
the KleinKaroo
Gazette, inwhich
she shares equal parts relationship
advice and South African recipes, but
she and her sidekick, the inquisitive
reporter Jessie, set offtoinvestigate
Oom Frik’s death. And then asecond
body surfaces, and it has aletter with a
clue addressed toTannie Maria …
The so-called “cosy murder mystery”
is one ofthe fastest
growing fiction genres
in the world. (The Tannie
Maria series issold in
14 different languages
across five continents.)
It’s less gory and bloody
than your traditional
thriller orhorror, and
it usually features an
amateur sleuth in a
small-town scenario
who solves crimes
in aseries ofbooks.
In other words, more
Hercules Poirot and
less Hannibal Lecter.
So, itdoesn't add stress
to your life.
Q&Awith author
SallyAndrew:
This is the fourthbook in the
series.How didTannieMaria
developoverthe years?
Tannie Mariaisabraveand tender
soul whonot only tracks down
murderersand givesrecipe-infused
love advice,but also facesher
internal healingchallenges. Her
relationship with Henkreflects
herhealing journey. In book one
(Recipesfor Loveand Murder)welearn
of herabusive late husband, Fanie.
Mariaopens herheart enough to
hold handswithHenk. In book
two(Tannie Mariaand theSatanic
Mechanic), shewants to have sexwith
Henkand joinsacounselling group
to tackle herPTSD(post-traumatic
stress disorder). In book three(Death
on theLimpopo), sheexplores her
relationship with herfatherand
grapples with hearingand saying,“I
love you”.And in book four(TheMilk
Tart Murders), shehas somethingof
abreakdown, triggeredbyjealousy
AATraveller | WINTER 2022

Books
TheLibrary –AFragile History
BY ANDREW PETTEGREEAND ARTHUR DER WEDUWEN
It is hardtooverestimatethe role thelibrary playedinthe historyofthe world. This
book takesyou on acareful journeythrough thehistory of book collections –fromthe
beginningthrough to thelibraries that have shaped ourwritten record of humanity.Itis
afascinating, encyclopaedicread. From thebook’sblurb: “Inthis, thefirst majorwork
of itskind, Andrew Pettegreeand Arthur derWeduwen explorethe rich anddramatic
historyofthe library, from thefamous collections of theancient worldtothe embattled
public resources we cherishtoday.Along theway,theyintroduce us to theantiquarians,
philanthropists andeccentricswho shaped theworld’s greatcollections,trace the
rise andfalloftechnologies, ideologies andtastes–and revealthe high crimes and
misdemeanours committedinthe pursuitofrareand valuable manuscripts.”
TheLibrary is theperfect gift forhistory lovers andbooknerds alike.
Thebooks were selected by theeditors andthe publishershad no inputinthe reviews. Images: ThierryCassuto and GerdaEngelbrecht.
andlackoftrust.Her relationship with
food comesintoquestion. Shelearns
about self-love anddeepens herspiritual
connectiontoher essenceand herhigher
power.
Whydoyou think Tannie Maria
resonateswithreaders worldwide?
Mariaand theKaroo,althoughuniquely
SouthAfrican,resonatewithbroader
archetypes:asmall town,semi-rural
setting, agroundedand quirky main
characterwithproblems, wisdomsand
humourthatmosthumanscan relate to.
Whatinspiredyou to writethe first
Tannie Mariabook?And wheredo
youfindinspiration for each of the
follow-ups?
Therewas an “ideaspecial”atthe
LadismithSpar, andIboughtfourfor
theprice of oneawhile back.Theyhave
stopped with that,soIamjustgoing to
have to studythe meerkat tracks on the
dirt road to getideas forthe next books.
Theseriesisset in and aroundthe
office of the KleinKaroo Gazette.
“Maria andthe Karoo, although
uniquely SouthAfrican,resonates
with broaderarchetypes.”
Do youhaveexperiencewith small
regional newspapers?
Ireadthemsometimes. In theKaroo
andinMuizenberg.But Ihave no direct
experience.Iam relieved to hear from
otherswho have workedinthemthatthe
settingrings true …
It is so lekker to have someone
write“cosy mysteries” forthe
SouthAfricanaudience. Is it a
genreyou also enjoyreading?Do
youreadother murder mystery
series?
Yes. Yes. I’mcurrently readingaseries
by thebrilliantSue Grafton, andthe
delightful AdeleAbbott.
What is your favouritespotinthe
Karoo?
WhereIlive,onanature reserve,
betweenLadismith andBarrydale.
If Tannie Mariacan suggestaplace
to eatsomewhere in theKaroo to
AA members,whatwould it be?
Andadish,perhaps?
Mariaprefers home-cookedfoodand
doesn’tdorecommendations. ButI’ve
noticedshe rather enjoyedthe food at
Diesel &Crème in Barrydale(gourmet
burger andshakes),Kanna Kombuis
(pizza) in Ladismithand Giovanni’s in
Calitzdorp(specialofthe day).
When Iwenttothe Vetplantfees
(SucculentFestival)inCalitzdorpfor
research on thelatestbook(TheMilkTart
Murders), Ireallyenjoyedeatingat
Giovannis (Italian food)and Die
Kombuis(Indian food). Very tasty,
cookedwithloveand pretty locations.
65
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

Gear
66
LOOK
BEFORE
YOUBUY
•You’ll need araincover
if you’re goingtouse your
backpack on hikes. Addthe
priceofthe covertothatofthe
backpack if it’snot included–
some bags canlook deceptively
cheap withoutacover.
•Featuresthatmakefor a
qualityhikingbackpack include
ahydrationbladder with atube
that reachesyourmouth and
asystem that keepsyourback
dry. Anddifferent access points
to themain compartmentis
great(these areusuallyvia a
zip at thetop andbottom),so
youcan quickly andeasily get
access to items.
•Small compartments on
thehip belt areideal for extra
actioncamerabatteries,
plasters,sweets,pain meds
andlip balm. Andextra zip
bags inside areconvenientfor
keepingdocumentsdry.Look
outfor aclipfor your keys and
pocket knife.
•Loops on theoutside of the
bagare handy.Check if you
cantie your trekking polesto
your bag. When it comesto
top-quality bags,you should
be able to reachyourtrekking
polesand putthemaway
withoutremovingthe bagfrom
your back.
•Amesh storagebag on the
outsideishandy for when you
need to drywet socksortowels
in thesun.
FORTHE CLASSOROFFICE
K-WAYSHUTTLE
(20litres)
This bag is ideal for
commuters. It’s made
from light-weight but
extra strong 600D
material and has
compartments for all your
essentials. The sleeve for
your tablet or laptop is
padded. Also, itcontains
Okoban technology which
will help you locate your
bag ifitgoes missing.
PRICE R999 at
capeunionmart.co.za
HI-TEC
GEEKTRIP
(27litres)
The name says it
all! This bag will
keep your books,
electronics and
stationery safe. The
bag has its own USB
point.
PRICE R699 at
hitec.co.za
CAMPCOVER
COMMUTER
If Camp Cover’s range
of canvas products
are strong enough to
protect your camp fridge
and potjie pot on a4x4
expedition, then you can
rest assured that their
Commuter backpack
will do the same for your
laptop and books.
The main compartment
is lined and the laptop
sleeve is padded. And
there are two extra
compartments with zips.
Available ingrey and blue.
PRICE R744 at
campcover.co.za
THULECROSSOVER ANDCROSSOVER 2(32 litres)
Thule’s range of backpacks works inthe classroom aswell asthe
boardroom. This one is made from waterproof material and has
different compartments for alaptop, tablet, cords and pens, as well
as a“SafeZone” for your sunglasses and phone. The SafeZone can
also be locked. The back panel has airflow panels to keep your
back dry and comfortable. The Crossover is also available asa
25-litre backpack and comes in various colours. For extra style in
the boardroom, look out for the Crossover 2.
PRICE R2 799 atthulestore.co.za
PACK IT UP!
Some youuse forthe classroom or office —othersfor theoutdoors. Hereisa
selection of backpacksthatwillhelplighten to load. COMPILED BY GERDAENGELBRECHT
AATraveller | WINTER 2022

DAYHIKES ANDSHORTEXPEDITIONSS
OSPREY HIKELITE
(32liters)
Osprey is an American brand
that hikers rate highly, and this
bag ispopular amongst hikers
taking on the Camino. (Abag
that’s between 30to35litres is
ideal for the Camino de Santiago.)
The ventilation system keeps
your back dry and the bag has an
intigrated rain cover.
There aren’t any pockets on the
hip belt, but the there isanextra
bag onthe lid that you can easily
reach from the back, as well as
amesh bag under the lid –the
ideal storage space for smaller
items.
PRICE R2 299 at
outdoorwarehouse.co.za
DEUTERTRAIL (28litres)
This German brand is know for
thequality and comfort oftheir
backpacks. ADeuter bag marked
with ayellow flower isspecifically
designed for women (who in general
have shorter backs). The Trail ismade
forhikers but has extra loops onthe
shoulders that can be used by rock
climbers. The manufacturer claims
that the Aircontact system will make
you sweat 15% less than abag that
makes contact with your back. The
special Delrin® Uframe ensures that
theweight on your back is evenly
distributed. The bag has aspecial
hidden compartment for valuables
and acompartment for clothes.
PRICE R1 999 at capeunionmart.
co.za
NATUREHIKEJOURNEY X-PAC
The Journey has two important
features: the bag ismade from waterproof
material, so it doesn’t need arain
cover, and secondly, the hip belt can
be removed for when you want touse
the bag todoshopping inthe city.
PRICE R3 299 atnaturehike.co.za
PLUS ...WHAT?
You'll oftennoticethatthe size of certain
bags areindicated as,for example,50+
10 litres.The plus in thenamemeans that
one of thebag's compartments canbe
zipped open to increaseits size –nifty for
when youneed extraspace.
67
FIRSTASCENTATLAS (35litres)
If you’re looking for the perfect balance between weight and durability, consider the
Atlas. It’s made from Microtex Core 200D material and has amesh bag onthe inside for
your keys. Inaddition to the convenient bags on the hip belt, the outer bag is ideal for
your cycling helmet orjacket. You can stuff your wet rain jacket in this bag ifyou don’t
want stuff on the inside toget wet. The YKK zips can also beopened while wearing
gloves. The bag is compatible with arain cover that can be stored in acompartment at
the bottom. There are special loops for your trekking poles and aairflow system tokeep
your back dry.
PRICE R1 699 atcapeunionmart.co.za, outdoorwarehouse.co.za or firstascent.co.za >
WINTER 2022 | AATraveller

Gear
K-WAYKILIMANJARO
(28litres)
Named after the highest mountain
in Africa, this bag was tested ona
hike on Kilimanjaro, claims K-Way.
There are loops for trekking poles,
reflectors, extra bags, comfortable
hip, chest and shoulder straps, and
the rain cover isincluded. It’s stored
in aextra bottom compartment.
It’s also compatible with certain
hydration systems. There isan
airflow system on the back to keep
you dry.
PRICE R1 299 atcapeunionmart.
co.za
THEBIG GUNS
CAMP COVERBACKPACKER
TOURER (40litres)
This versatile bag isbigger than
your average day-to-day backpack,
so it can work as aweekend bag as
well. It’s made from durable ripstop
canvas and has padded shoulder
straps with acellphone pocket,
adjustable hip and sternum straps,
two compartments in front and two
side pockets for water bottles. The
main compartment islined and
the laptop sleeve has acable or
earphone eyelet. This bag is made
to last and won’t tear just like that.
PRICE R1 275 atcampcover.co.za
FIRSTASCENTJUPITERII(65 +10litres)
This bag’s adjustable torso system and sturdy hip
belt ensures for acomfortable fit on long hikes.
The removable lid and extra zipper gives you
easy access to your gear. This bag is made from
light-weight Microtex Core 200D material and is
strengthen with 1000D onareas that are prone to
alot of wear and tear. Not only does the bag have
loops for your trekking poles, but also for asmall
tent or sleeping bag.
PRICE R2 999 at outdoorwarehouse.co.za
68
THULEALLTRAIL(35 litres)
The main plus point ofthe Alltrail, which
is made from 50% recycled polyester, is
its versatility. The space meant for the
hydration system in the main compartment
can easily betransformed into alaptop
sleeve. It’s also one of the few day hike
bags that offer torso adjustability of up
to 10 cm, soyou can adjust ittosuit your
height. The bag comes with its own rain
cover system and has pockets on the hip
belt and loops for trekking poles. Also
available in15litres and 25 litres, and in
bags for men and women.
PRICE R2 999 at thulestore.co.za
CAPESTORM
OVERLAND II
(55litres)
This bag ismade from
ripstop material and is big
enough for amulti-day
hike. Ithas analuminium
frame and is compatible
with ahydration system.
There are loops for your
trekking poles and the rain
cover isincluded.
PRICE R1 699 at
outdoorwarehouse.co.za
AATraveller | WINTER 2022

K-WAYADVENTURE (50+10litres)
The Adventure has anairflow system on
the back which makes this bag super
comfortable. The zips (top, front and
bottom) give you easy access to the bag’s
main compartment, so you don’t have to
rummage through everything just to get to
your sunscreen. Store your lip balm inthe
hip belt pockets and your rain jacket, first
aid kit and camera in the compartment in
the lid. The bag has several compression
points for the perfect fit.
PRICE R1 699 atcapeunionmart.co.za
OSPREY AETHER (65litres)
Youcan use this backpack on aweeklong
hike where you need to carry alot of
provisions and gear with you. The bag’s torso,
hip belt and shoulder straps are adjustable,
allowing for the perfect fit. The back panels
contain AirScape technology for added
comfort. It’s made from high quality nylon
and arain cover isincluded. There are extra
loops for your hiking mattress, which you can
remove if you’re not using it.
PRICE R5 399 atoutdoorewarehouse.co.za
NATUREHIKE(55 +5litres)
Naturehike is known for their ultra-light
tents, mattresses and sleeping bags –
and their backpacks are no exception.
These hiking bags have two important
features: anadjustable and ventilated
aluminium back, as well as ahip belt
that can twist and turn independently
as you goupordown steep hills. This
ensures that the weight of the bag is
evenly dustributed. At the top ofthe bag,
there isanextra zipper compartment
and the bag has space for ahydration
system. There are several extra pockets,
loops for trekking poles and azipper
bag onthe hip belt. It’s ideal for three- to
five-day hikes. Also available as a65+
5-litre bag with the same features.
PRICE R1 699 (55 +5)and R1 999 (65 +5)
at naturehike.co.za
DEUTERAVIANTACCESS
PRO(70 litres)
This huge backpack isn't made for
hikes but rather for backpacking
journeys around the world.
It's basically aduffle bag you can
wear on your back. There are four
handles and anextra bag for your
laundry aswell asfor your shoes.
The smaller compartment onthe
front can be removed and used as
hand luggage on aplane.
PRICE R4 299 atcapeunionmart.
co.za
DOES IT FIT?
You’re going to wastealotof
energy on your hikeifyourbag
doesn’tfit youproperly.
•You need to carryabout 50%
of theweightonyourhips. (The rest
is distributedacrossyourback and
shoulders.) First, adjust thehip belt;it
should sitjustbelow your bellybutton.
If it sits on thewaistband of your
pants, it’s toolow.Ifthisbeltdoesn’t fit
properly,all theweightwillbeonyour
shoulders–thiswillhurtyou.
•Now adjust theshoulderstrapsto
fitsnuglyoveryourshoulders–there
shouldn’tbeany spacebetweenthe
straps andthe topofyourshoulders.
•Finally,fastenthe belt acrossyour
sternum (chest). This strapkeeps
theshoulder straps away fromyour
armpits, whichallowsyou to freely
move your arms.Ifitslips off, you’ll
starttochafe.
This selectionofproducts waschosenbythe editorial staff, andthe various brandfeatured didn’t payfor theexposure.All prices mentioned canchange withoutnotice.
Deliverycosts are not factored intothe prices. The editorialstaff can’taccept responsibilityfor orders.

By Juliet McGuire
IT’S
ELECTRIFYING!
Thefutureoftransport is electric butisSouth Africa readyfor it?
Severalelectricvehicles(EVs) arearriving on ourshore thisyear.
We look at what youcan expect fromthese excitingnew arrivals.
70
AA Traveller | WINTER 2022

Motoring
MERCEDES-EQ
UnlikeAudi, Volvoand ahandful of other
manufacturers,Mercedes-Benz’sEVstrategy
does notexclude itsinternalcombustion
engine(ICE) vehicleline-up.Infact, this German
marque’s EVswillsit alongside itsexisting
models. Over thenext20years,Mercedes-
Benz Cars aims to have anew,carbon-neutral
passengercar fleet and haveplug-in hybrids or
all-electric vehiclesmakeupmorethan 50%of
itscar salesby2030. To kickoffthis strategy,five
Mercedes-EQs will be hittingour shores in 2022
in astaggeredtimeframe.
TheEQA is an all-electric sports SUV, which is
aclose relation to theGLA. We will seethe EQA
250inSouthAfrica whichhas apoweroutputof
140kWand arange of up to 412km.
TheEQB is acompact SUVfor the whole
family,and therewillbeaseven-seat option
available. It’s all-wheeldrive, and the EQB
3504MATICderivativewewillget hasapower
outputof215 kW.The rangeisclaimed at 419km.
TheEQC –the first cartobeproducedinline
with Mercedes-Benz’snew generationEQfamily
with abattery electric drivetrain–willhave an
outputof300 kW andarange of up to 437km.
Forthe business sedan fans,the EQEwill
be theslightlymorecompact optionofthe EQ
range.And forthose wanting thefirst all-electric
premiumsedan from Mercedes-EQ, youcan opt
forthe EQS. Thishas astaggeringrange of up to
780kmand apoweroutputof385 kW.
Ahome-chargingkit will be throwninthe
mix,soyou caninstall oneatyour home (or
your workspace;it’syour choice), buttherewill
also be achargingstation at 36 Mercedes-
Benz dealersaroundthe country. Some of the
chargingstationswillevenhave100-kWfast
chargingcapabilitywhich means youwillbe
abletocharge the EQCfromzeroto90% in
an hour.
Pricingtobeannounced closer to
launch dates.
>
71
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

PRICING FORTHE AUDI E-TRON RANGE:
e-tron 55 advanced: R1990 000
e-tron 55 Sline: R2 045000
e-tron 55 Sportback Sline: R2 115000
e-tron SSportback: R2 425000
e-tron GT: R2715 000
RS e-tronGT: R3 300000
72
AUDI E-TRON
WhileAudiwillcontinue to sell their
ICEmodelsuntil 2033,its aimisto
offer afully electrified product lineup
by 2026,soit’sgoing full steam
aheadwiththe introductionofno
less than sixEVmodelsthisyear
alone. Theseinclude the e-tron SUV
(50and 55), e-tron Sportback andS
Sportback,e-tronGTand the highperformance
RS e-tron GT.
If youthink EVsare alittleboring,
the RS e-tron will change your mind.
It produces acrazy 475kWand a
whopping 830Nmoftorque,which
meansyou will getto100 km/h in an
insane 3.3seconds.Audiclaimsyou
will getaround427 km of range on a
single charge.Who knewEVs could
be so exciting!
Yetnot everyone wantspower;
some mightbelookingfor space
andpracticalitywhile keepingthe
environment in mind.
The e-tron SUV50and 55 offer
customers both –and more. Their
outputs arestill staggeringat300
kW and664 Nm,and it will only take
5.7seconds to getto100 km/h. And
your range will be between369 and
440km. Butitalsooffers the space
andpracticalitythatwehavecometo
expect from an SUV.
If you’re afterasleeker look,the
Sportback is foryou.Itretains the
same outputs as the SUV, butits
range is slightly better at between
372and 453km.
The SSportback is faster with
370kWand,waitfor it …973 Nm.
That’s asprintofjust4.5 seconds to
100km/h. Butthe range is claimed
between347 and378 km.
Allthe e-Tron modelswillcome
with ahostofstandardfeatures:
climate control, adaptivesuspension,
heated frontseats andAudi’sVirtual
Cockpit. Safety featureswillalso
include the likesofAudiConnect
emergencycalland the very best of
Audi’s driverassistsystems.
When it comes to charging, you
canexpectthe e-tron charging
system,household plug type M,
industrialplugCEE 32Amps,Mode3
charging cablefor public charging,
on-board charger,vehicle inletCCS
type 2and an Audi wall bracketfor
convenientchargingathome.The
batteryalsocomes with an eightyear/160
000 km warranty.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2022

Motoring
BMWiX3
TheiX3 is basedonBMW’s popularX3,
andit’sthe manufacturer’s first model
range that offerspetrol, diesel,plug-in
hybrid andelectricderivatives.The first iX3
didn’t make it to SouthAfrica when it was
launched acoupleofyearsago,but we
will be abletoget our handsonthe new,
updatedversion laterthisyear (attimeof
going to press, the iX3hadn’tarrivedyet).
It hashad some externaltweaksto
keep it in line with the updatedX3. The
headlamp clusters areslimmer by 10 mm,
and it sports that largefront kidney grille.
Thefront sees anewly sculpted front
apron and therear taillights have also
been adjusted.The iX3comes standard
with an MSport Package, whichmeans
youget adaptive LEDheadlights andjet
black20-inch alloywheels. BMWhas
added“iBlue” accents on the frontand
rear aprons andablanked off grille to
differentiate it from thestandardversion.
Butit’swhat’sunder the hood that
counts the most:anelectricmotor
poweredbyan80-kWhhighvoltage
batterythatproduces 210kWofpower
and400 Nm of torque –thismeansyou’ll
getto100 km/hinjust6.8 seconds. It
is the first model to be equipped with
thelatest, fifth-generation BMWeDrive
technology.
It’s powerful,nodoubt, butwhatmost
of us really want to know is howfar we
canget on asinglecharge.BMW claims
around460 km in optimal conditions,
and impressively,you cangainabout
100kmwitha150-kW fast charge of
aboutten minutes. It will take aboutseven
andahalfhours to charge to 100per cent
when usingBMW’s Wallboxcharger,
whichcan be installed at your home as an
option.However, if youcharge it at adirect
current(DC)fast-charging station,itwill
replenish the batteryfrom10to80% of its
full capacity in just 32 minutes.
The driveunit, whichbringstogether
the electric motor, powerelectronics and
transmission, is allwithinasinglehousing.
This meansitreduces the installation
spacerequiredaswellasthe weight of
the components relative to the power
theyproduce.
It boastsanarray of automated
driving andparkingfunctions. Thedriver
assistance systemsprocess camera
images as well as data gathered by
ultrasonicand radarsensorstomonitor
the vehicle’s surroundings, warningof
potentialhazards andminimisingthe risk
of an accident with corrective braking and
steering inputs.
Pricingwillbeannouncedcloser to the
launch date.
>
BMWIX
Alreadyavailable in SouthAfrica, theiXis,
simply put, anew rangeofelectric“sport
activity vehicles” fromBMW.There are
twomodelsonoffer:the iX xDrive40 and
theiXxDrive50. Theentry pointmodel,the
xDrive40,produces240 kW and630 Nm and
claims arange of between372 and425 km.
ThexDrive50produces 385kWand 764Nm
of torque with aclaimed range of between
549and 630km. Both modelsare allwheeldrive
andboast airsuspensionas
standard,not to mentionanewtechnology
toolkitthatmakes itsdebut in theBMW iX.
It means significantprogress in theareas
of automateddriving anddigital services.
Forexample,the levelofcomputingpower
hasbeendeveloped to process20times the
data volume of previousmodels. As aresult,
arounddouble theamount ofdatafrom
vehicle sensorscan be processedthanwas
previously possible.
PRICING FORTHE IX:
Includedinthe price is acomplimentary
BMWWallboxcharger andinstallation, free
chargingatany BMW-brandedstations and
free insurance for thefirst year.
BMWiXxDrive40: R1650 000
BMWiXxDrive50: R2 175000
73

Motoring
74
AWORD ON EVsINSA
Is SouthAfrica readyfor EVs?
AccordingtoIan McLaren, the editor
of evliving.co.za, thrillingtimes
lieahead.“If each of the already
confirmed EV entrantsfromthe
likesofAudi, BMW, Porscheand
Mercedes-Benz is impressiveintheir
respective right, the list of all-electric
modelsfrombrandslikeVolkswagen,
Kia, Hyundai, Ford andevenHonda
that will potentiallylaunchinSouth
Africa once governmentadjusts
itsassociatedtax structures, is
truly exciting.”
Severalissues need to be
addressedfirstthough:
•EVare tooexpensive: Currently,
the cheapestEVonthe market is the
Mini Cooper SE that costs around
R700 000.MostSouth Africans can’t
affordthis.
However, thereisacheaper option:
the CityBug(R230 000)fromthe
Chinesefirm Gaia andmarketed in
SouthAfricabyEleksa. It only hasa
range of 100kmand atop speed of
60 km/h.
In SouthAfrica,taxes add to the
priceofEVs.First, thereisa25%
import dutytax andthen thereis
a17% ad valorem tax, whichisa
luxury tax. That is atotal of 42%.
ManufacturerssuchasKia andmany
othersare pushingtohavethe ad
valorem taxremoved, andifthey
succeed,wecould seeEVs come in
at amoreaffordable price.
•Infrastructure concerns: Range
anxiety is arealissue formanySouth
Africans.Are thereenough charging
stationstofacilitatetravellinglong
distances?And what aboutload
shedding? “While there’salot of
talk aboutlong-distance range
and availablepubliccharging
infrastructure, most SouthAfrican
ownerswilllivewiththeirEVs the
waytheyalreadyincorporate a
smartphone into their lives,”Ian
explains.“Pluggingyour carintoa
wall-charger installed within your
garagewillensure amaximumusable
range each morning, regardlessof
whether your homeexperiences a
periodofload-sheddingthrough
the night.”
Andwithsofew electric cars on
ourroads at this time,wehavewhat
is considered oneofthe highest
charging stationsper carratiosin
the world. IanaddsthatmostEVs
will be chargedathome, butifyou
areheading outonalong road
trip,you justneed to plan your
routeaccordingly.
Either way, it won’tbelongbefore
we startseeingmoreand moreEVs
on ourroads.It’ssafetosay that the
future is,infact, electrifying.
Imagessupplied. Pricescorrect at time of goingtopress.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2022

Motoring
First Impressions
CanCherybounce back from the disastrous QQ with thenew Tiggo 4Pro?
Motoring journalist Juliet McGuire takesitfor aspintofind out. She also gets
behind thewheel of thenew KiaSorento, thefuturistic-lookingHyundai Staria,
thelocally madeVWPoloand theRumion, another Toyota-Suzukicollaboration.
KIASORENTO
Exceptionalqualityand valuefor money
is whatKia is knownfor,and the newfourth
generation Sorentocontinues with this
ethos. It’s basedonKia’s newgeneration
largeSUV platform,soit’sbigger than the
outgoing model andoffers morespace.
To date,it’salsoone of Kia’smost
advance vehicles thanks to connectivity,
driverassistanceand infotainment
technologies.Itboastsatwin digitaldisplay
in the dashboard with a12,3-inch digital
cluster anda10,25-inch touchscreen
infotainmentsystem. Manyofthe car’s
functionscan be controlled viahaptic
buttonsoneither sideofthe screen.
Everything hasbeendesigned with
thedriverand safety in mind.All three
derivatives –the EX+, SX AWD
andSXL AWD–come with
ahostofactiveand passive
safety features.
Dependingonwhich derivative you
choose,Kia’s advanceddriverassistance
systemsincludes forwardcollision
avoidance assisttechnologywith
pedestrian,cyclist andvehicle detection;
blindspotcollision avoidance assist; smart
cruise control(which will adjust the speed
to the vehicleahead andbrake when
necessary);lanefollowassistand driver
attention warning.
AllSorento modelscomewithsix
airbags,vehicle stabilitymanagement
andelectronicstability control. Kia’sfirst
MODEL CHOICE: Sorento2.2 CRDi
7-seater SXLAWD 8DCT
PRICEDFROM: R988 995
MAINTENANCE PLAN: Sixyears/90000 km
WARRANTY: Unlimited kilometres/fiveyears
multi-collisionbrake system automatically
appliesbrakeswhen the airbagshavebeen
deployedafter an initial collision, which
further protects occupantsfromsecondary
frontorsideimpacts.
Another standout feature is the
maintenance plan.Overand abovea
standard service plan,thiscomprehensive
packagecovers severalcomponents at
no costtothe owner,including,but not
limitedto, brakepads,discs andlinings,
shockabsorbers, battery, clutch, cambelt,
variousbelts,globesand fuses. So,pretty
mucheverything!
>
75
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

MODEL CHOICE: Tiggo 4Pro 1.5Elite(CVT)
PRICEDFROM: R349 900
SERVICE PLAN: Five years/60 000 km
WARRANTY: Five years/150000 km
CHERYTIGGO 4PRO
76
Alot of hype surrounds thearrivalofthe
CheryTiggo 4Pro.Years ago, Cheryswiftly
exited SouthAfrica with mud on itsface:
the CheryQQwas an utterdisasterand
the Tiggo wasn’t much better.Now,the
manufacturer is back with theTiggo 4Pro,
andthistimearound, theymight justcrack
the SouthAfricanmarket.
TheTiggo facesstiffcompetition. It
sits in oneofthe market’s most popular
segments,keeping companywiththe
Toyota UrbanCruiser,Suzuki Vitara Brezza,
Nissan Magnite,Renault Kigerand the Kia
Sonet(oneofmyfavourites).
TheTiggo 4Pro is an excellentproduct
all-round. Looksare subjective (and Ithink
the carisrather good looking), butwhereit
really impressesisinthe cabin. Thehighqualityfeelisalmostunmatched
in this
segment–Iwould go as fartosay that it
mightbethe best cabininthe segment. It’s
also morespacious. In the cabinofthe top
of the range Elitederivative, youcan expect
everything butthe kitchen sink.
There is achoicebetween a1.5-litre
naturallyaspirated or a1.5-litre
turbochargedengine. Thelatterismy
engineofchoicewithits 108kWofpower
and210 Nm of torque.Itcan be matedto
either amanual or CVT. Oneissue with this
carisits fuel consumption.It’shardtoget it
below8litres/100kmand compared to its
rivals,it’sfar toohigh.
The safety featuresare topnotch across
the range.All modelshaveABS and
electronic brake force, electronicstability
programme(ESP),tractioncontrol, roll
stabilitycontrol,hilldescent controland
hill assist. Keylessaccess with start/stop
button is standard.The Tiggo will lock
automaticallyasyou approach or leavethe
vehicle, andthe doorslockautomatically as
youdrive away.The range hasatleasttwo
airbags,but the Elitemodel addsfront side
andcurtain airbagsfor atotal of six. And
to topitall off,italsohas atyrepressure
monitoring system.
Stillunsureabout puttingyour name
down forone?Let me giveitone
morego: theTiggo 4Pro comeswitha
10-year/1 millionkmenginewarranty.Yes,
that isn’tatypo. It’s onemillion kilometres.
Thereisaslightcatch: foritremaininplace,
youmustbethe originalowner andthe car
must be servicedataCherydealer.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2022

Motoring
HYUNDAI
STARIA MULTICAB
TheStaria bus launchedlate last
year,and people were completely
thrownbyits futuristic,spaceshiplike
looks, butithas seen some
success since itslaunch. It seemslike
the public waskeenonsomething
that stood outfromthe typically
dull designs of multipurpose
vehicles (MPV).
Hyundaihas nowlaunchedthe
second bodyshapeofthe Staria in
the form of the Multicab.Thisisa
five-seater version with ahugeloading
bay: it has2890 litres of spaceinthe
back,plusspace forthe kids.Just
keep in mind that the cargoareais
separatetothe cabin, so youcan’t fold
the rear seatsdownfor morespace.
If youare looking at the Staria as a
business vehicle, perhaps wait forthe
panelvan version,which is settoarrive
thisyear still.That’snot to saythe
Multicab isn’tagreat optionfor those
running businesses.Itcan function as
both abusinessvehicle andafamilyfriendly
option forschoolrunsand
weekend trips.
Thereisa2.2-litre four-cylinder
turbodieselengineunder thebonnet
producing130 kW and430 Nm.Itis
matedtoaneight-speed automatic
transmission.Itfeels morerefinedthan
the outgoing H1,but youmight find the
transmission strains abit on an incline,
especiallyifthe vehicleisfully loaded.
It comeswithahost of convenience
features,suchasApple CarPlayand
Android Auto.Onthe safety front, it
boastsmoreairbags than the H1 (six in
total),all seatscomewiththree-point
seat beltsand headrests,blind spot
detection,rear crosstraffic alert, cruise
control, frontand rear sensors anda
reversecamera.
>
MODEL CHOICE: Staria Multicab
PRICEDFROM: R759900
SERVICE PLAN: Sixyears/90000 km
WARRANTY: Sevenyears/200 000 km
77
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

MODEL CHOICE: PoloR-Line 1.0TSI 85kW DSG
PRICEDFROM: R421 900
SERVICE PLAN: Threeyears/45000 km
WARRANTY: Threeyears/120 000 km
VOLKSWAGEN POLO
78
Local reallyislekker with the
Volkswagen Polo,which is built in Kariega
in the EasternCape. Thesixth generation,
whichlaunchedin2017, hasbeenupdated,
andit’ssafetosay that it will continue to be
as successfulasitisnow.Itcurrentlyholds
the number twospotfor most passenger
cars sold, only trumped by itssibling,the
Polo Vivo.
Theupdated Polo,which is as bigasthe
Golf 3was back in the dayand internally
biggerthan the Golf 4, boastsafresh front
bumper design with newfog lamps, a
rear bumper design with reflectors, new
taillights,adigitalcockpit as standard,a
newinfotainmentsystemand anew multifunctionsteeringwheel.
The bigger news,however, is the
introductionofthe IQ.Drive travelassist
function.The Polo is the first vehiclein
itsclass to offer asemi-autonomous
driving system as optional.The IQ.Drive
includes adaptivecruisecontrol andlane
assist.When it’s active, the carwillbrake,
accelerate andsteer automatically within
the system limits.You canalsoopt forfront
assist andpedestrian monitoring.
The Polo adopts anew naming
convention:the trim levels arenow Polo
(base model), Polo Life, R-Line andGTI.
Andthereisanextensive options list.Even
if youopt forthe range topping GTI, you
will stillneed to addthingslikearear-view
camera,keyless entryand leather seats.
Thereisalsothe NCAP packagewhich
includes poweradjustable, foldingand
heated exterior mirrors,laneassistand
frontassist. If youwantIQ.Drive, you’ll need
to addthe safety package.
Engines on offer include the 1.0TSI
70 kW whichisonthe Polo andPoloLife,
or the 1.0TSI 85 kW which is offered on
thePoloLifeand R-Line models. TheGTI
is poweredbya2.0-litreturbocharged
engineproducing147 kW and320 Nm.
It mightbethe most fun of the lot,but it
comeswithavery firm suspension.Ifthis
is your everyday car, youmight want to
consider amid-range model if just from a
comfortpoint of view.Not that many will
take this advice –South Africahappens
to be the second biggestmarket after
Germanyfor the Polo GTI.
The Polo is asafechoicefor many
customers.Itoffersreliability,dependability
andexcellent resale value.
AA Traveller | WINTER 2022

Motoring
TOYOTA RUMION
TheSuzukicollabwith Toyota is going
pretty well.Infact, both theToyota
UrbanCruiser andToyota Starlet were
amongstthe topfive best-selling
passenger cars in January.Ifyou recall,
thoseare in fact, the SuzukiVitaraBrezza
andSuzuki Baleno.The thirdmodel
to come outofthispartnership is the
Toyota Rumion (aka the Suzuki Ertiga).
Thisseven-seat MPVwillreplace
the popularToyota Avanza andwillno
doubtbeapopularchoicefor e-hailing
servicessuchasUber andfor larger
families on abudget.Thereisanentrylevelderivative,
namelythe Smodel,
that comesinunder R250000,but bear
in mind that it houses the bare minimum
–itdoesn’t even have an audiosystem.
It is more aboutpurefunctional usethan
anything else.The mid-grade model,
the SX,strikes abalance between
affordability andcomfort,and the
range-topping TX is aimedatcustomers
whorequire morecomfort andmore
convenience features.
This top-spec model boastsa
touchscreeninfotainmentsystem
with AppleCarPlay andAndroid Auto,
keylessentry with push start, automatic
airconditioningand areverse camera
with sensors.Toyota upsits gamewitha
Wi-Fihotspot,offeredacrossthe range,
which includes complimentary 15GB
data.The wood trim finish alongthe
dashboardmight notbetoeveryone’s
taste, butitdoesgiveitanair of luxury.
When it comes to safety,the Rumion
hasadriver andpassenger airbag,ABS,
EBDand ISOFIX anchoragepoints. The
range also comesstandardwithan
immobiliser andalarm.
Thesame1.5-litre engineasfoundin
the Ertiga powers the Rumion.Itcanbe
matedtoeither amanual or automatic
transmission. Thefive-speed manual
gearbox coulddowithasixthgear as it
revs rather high in fifth,and so sees a
fuelconsumption of around
7.7litres/100km. If youare mindful while
driving,you couldsee alowerreading,
butifyou have abunch of passengers
andluggageinthe back, youcan expect
it to remain quitehigh.
MODELCHOICE: Rumion 1.5TXMT
PRICEDFROM: R301 600
SERVICE PLAN: Four services/60000 km
WARRANTY: Threeyears/100 000 km
79
Images: Supplied. Pricescorrect at timeofgoing to press.
WINTER 2022 | AA Traveller

Blockbusters
CROSSWORD 99
Capital
of Cuba
Destiny
Portly
Garden
tool
...and
tested
(proven)
Window
coverings
Port
city in
northern
Spain
Recovery
clinic
(short)
Honeymaker
All ...
being
equal
Verified
Small
room
Locale
First
vowel
Base of
astatue
Type of
dance
music
Gambling
room
Prepare
text for
publishing
Bachelor
of Arts
(abbr)
Above
Narrowminded
Neodymium
(symbol)
Long,
narrative
poem
Personal
assistant
(abbr)
Outer part
of aflower
Not off
Bequeath
For each
Leaked
out
Only
Two-piece
swimming
costume
Partitions
(anatomy)
Thus
Small
monkey
XI
Perusing
Webfooted
birds
Anno
hegirae
(abbr)
Shoal
Catches
Fuji and
Andes, eg
Enemies
Utilise
Prohibit
Ice-cream
flavour
Back end
Actor's
signal
Plunders
Brave
person
Least bold
Remove
80
Storehouse
Americium
(symbol)
Abird
Rather ...
than later
Fins
Bicycle
for two
Nobody
(2,3)
Small
town in
the central
Karoo
Finished
(inf)
Astrology
sign
Substitute
Hiking
shoe
Asian
language
Elitist
European
Union
(abbr)
Ooze
Terbium
(symbol)
Males
Look and
...
Neap, eg
Lair
15thcentury
Japanese
drama
Platitude
En suite
(abbr)
Veggie
AA Traveller | WINTER 2022

Puzzles
QUICKQUIZ
1. Whichcityisthe firstinthe worldtostart chargingvisitorsan
entrance feefromJune2022?
a. Pamplona b. Pisa c. Venice d. Martha’s Vineyard
SUDOKU Easy
8 5 1 4
7 4 8 2
1 6 7 5 8
5 9 7 6 1
4 6 2 7
7 4 8 2 3
2 3 7 4 1
3 9 8 5
1 2 7 3
Images: GettyImages/ GalloImages. Sources: Forbes.com; travelchannel.com;National TrustFor Scotland
2. Wherewillyou find theoldest hotelinthe world?
a. Nishiyama OnsenKeiunkan, Japan b. Parador Santiago de
Compostela,Spain c. Petite Palace Posada,Madrid d. El Convento,
SanJuan, Puerto Rico
3. Thespringbok is SouthAfrica’snationalanimal.Whatisthe
nationalanimal of Scotland?
a. Reddeer b. Unicorn c. Dragon d. Osprey
Answers: C. Venicewillintroduce abooking system andanentry feefor daytrippers
in June. Visitors to Venicewillneed to book their visitand paybetween €3and €10
(depending on theseason).The ticketsystem, whichwillbetrialed foraperiodofsix
months,isthe latest move by authoritiesgrapplingwiththe unsustainable levels of
visitors to thecity. In recentweeks,visitornumbershaveshotback up to pre-pandemic
levels.Overthe Easter weekend, some 125000 daytrippers visitedthe historiccentre.
A. This Japanese resort notfar from Mount Fuji has beeninbusiness since705 A.D. and
hasbeeninthe same family for52generations. Guinness WorldRecords hasofficially
recognised it as theoldest continuously running hotelintheworld.
B. Theunicorn really is theofficial national animalofScotland. Thecountry has alove
forthis mythological creature that datesback many centuries. Unicorns havefeaturedin
many cultures goingasfar back as theclassical age, includingthe ancientBabylonians
andthe Induscivilisation.
Crossword99
F F R T S
H A V A N A R E H A B
T T K I U I
B E E P E D E S T A L
L R E D I T B A F
D I S C O N T E P A L O N
L E A V E P E R O O Z E D
L S E P T A S O F S
B I K I N I M N E T S G
B A N C A R A M E L C U E
D E P O T H E R O E R A S E
R U A M E M U V A N E S
M A T J I E S F O N T E I N E
L L E O S T A N D I N
K O R E A N S N O B
M E N T I D E G O O
S E E N E S T N O
T R U I S M B E E T
SUDOKU Hard
5
3 8 1 9 6
8 7 4
1 9 7
6 5 7
3 7 5
6 8 4
9 4 6 3 5
1
7 2 6 5 3 4 1 8 9
4 5 3 8 1 9 7 2 6
1 9 8 2 7 6 3 4 5
6 1 5 3 4 2 9 7 8
8 4 9 6 5 7 2 3 1
2 3 7 1 9 8 6 5 4
3 6 1 7 8 5 4 9 2
9 8 2 4 6 3 5 1 7
5 7 4 9 2 1 8 6 3
sudoku
hard
8 5 3 2 1 4 7 6 9
7 4 9 8 6 3 5 1 2
1 2 6 7 9 5 8 3 4
2 3 5 9 7 6 1 4 8
4 6 8 5 3 1 9 2 7
9 1 7 4 8 2 3 5 6
6 8 2 3 5 7 4 9 1
3 7 1 6 4 9 2 8 5
5 9 4 1 2 8 6 7 3
sudoku
easy
81
WINTER 2022 | AATraveller

Last word
So,how was
your holiday?
BY ANNELI GROENEWALD
82
Mymom hasnever
been overseas.She
always said she
sees these place
on theTV, doesn’t
she, andfromthe
comfortofher ownlivingroom.
Butafew years ago, Icautiously
askedher if shewantedtotravelto
London with me to seewhereIonce
lived, andfor amoment, before she
answered, shestood still.That’swhen
Iknewshe waskeen.
Andso, ayearlater we were on our
waytoLondon on what had since
become my mom’s GreatEuropean
Tour.The planewas still on the
tarmac when my mom came forward
with this conundrum: Shecan’t
believeall thethings she’sgoing to
see, shesays. Butnow shewonders
howshe’llbeabletodescribeit
to people.
Idon’t answer.Ishowher howthe
remote forthe TV screeninfront of
her works.
Ichoosesilence, becauseshe’s
touchedonapet hate of mine:
peoplewho want to sharetheir
holiday. Anddon’t people just love
telling you aboutit. Especially the
funnybits. They laughuntil they’re
gaspingfor air, whileyou feel
youreyesgetting abit hazy.They
already lost you at thethird“…and
then ...” (And don’t even getme
startedonlooking at otherpeople’s
holidayphotos.)
As we travel,the question
continuestoloomlarge over my
mom. Sometimesshe asks again: How
do you tell people about this?
And, indeed:How?
How do you describe to people the
voicesofchoir boys echoing offthe
domedroofofStPaul’sCathedral
during evensong whichyou attended
with localchurchgoers afterall the
tourists have left?Orthe feeling
when you exit throughthe heavy
wooden doorsand standonthe steps
wherethe poor Lady Di stoodinher
white, puffydress,blissfully unaware
of thehardships that wouldcomeher
way? Andhow shorther life wouldbe.
How do you tell peoplethat, at
6:00 in themorning, theTuscan
landscapelooks exactlylikeitdoes
in photographs? That,asyou look
at layer upon layer of beauty,you
mightfor amomentfeellikeyou’re
removedfromtimeand space. As
if you’redreaming, andnot really
thereinyourown body.Thatyou
had yourbirthdayinatownwith
14 stonetowersand aringedwall
from the13thcentury?How do you
tell peopleabout theblanket of mist
that envelops it in themornings?
How do you tell peopleabout the
almost sinisterBohemianisminthe
airwhen youarriveinVeniceduring
theirCarnival? To walkacrossthe
plainlateinthe afternoon, andtwo
Zorro’sare sittingonabench, and
agoldenfacestaresfixedly at you?
Of thecouple in Medieval dresswho
brushedpastyou in an alleyway –
ANNELI
GROENEWALD
is alecturer in
journalism at
the University
of Stellenbosch
andafreelance
journalist.
theiciness of thedeadpan masks
that regard you silently. Andthe
downheartedsingleton with theblack
andwhite maskwiththree golden
tears on onecheek (and asky-high
feathered headdress),who satinfront
of you in thewater taxi?How to do
you tell peopleabout themelancholy
of that moment?
How do you describe to peoplethe
silence on thesteps in frontofthe
PalaceofVersailles’garden? Of the
croissantyou atewhile sittingonthe
steps, with anever-endinghorizon
stretchingout in thedistance. That
theneatavenuesoftrees stretchedso
farintothe future,thatthose towards
theend paledintoblue.
How do you describe to people the
click-clackofheels on Amsterdam’s
stonealleyways?
Of thesound of waterbubbling
from marblestatues in asmall,
intimate plaininRome, whilethe rest
of thecityisjuststartingtowakeup?
I’mnot sure that it’s always
possible forwords to do justice to
such experiences. So,instead,I
remain silent. Becausetoshare such
moments with people, oftenruins it.
Youget robbed of it.
Maybemymom startedtosuspect
thesame. Threeweeks later, while
waiting at Heathrow forour flight
home,she tellsme: “I know what I’m
goingtosay when people askme
aboutmyholiday.I’m just goingto
say: It wasreallyverynice.”
Sketch:Lynne Fraser
AA Traveller | WINTER 2022