Traveller SPRING 2022

traveller
AUTOMOBILE ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA
SPRING 2022 | AA.CO.ZA
It 's springtime!
10
FLOWER
POWER
RECIPES
AA REPORT
Entry-level vehicles:
Safety is
‘encouraging’
GAUTENG’S
NATURAL
SPLENDOUR
8 PARKS & RESERVES
FOR URBANITES
STUNNING
STREET ART
IN JOZI
+
EXPLORE THE
OVERBERG
WE TEST DRIVE
the Peugeot 208,
Hyundai Tucson,
Citroën C3 Aircross,
Volvo XC60 + the
Kia Carnival, Opel
Zafira Life, Hyundai
Staria & VW Kombi
22037
R70
(incl VAT)
Other countries
N$70
Karoo
A ROAD
TRIP IN
THE
■ EXPERIENCE THE
VALLEY OF DESOLATION
■ SEE A CACTUS BLOOM
■ WATCH THE FOLLIES
IN STEYTLERVILLE
6 009879 964868

From the editor
Art that can save a city
EDITOR
Gerda Engelbrecht
gerda.engelbrecht@media24.com
ART DIRECTOR
Sally Cronjé
ASSISTANT EDITOR
Petro-Anne Vlok
REPRODUCTION
Dewald Spies
PRODUCTION
Jacques du Plooy
Kurt Ohlson
CEO: MEDIA24
Ishmet Davidson
CEO: PRINT MEDIA
Minette Ferreira
GM: LIFESTYLE
Nerisa Coetzee
GROWTH MANAGER
Lise Coetsee
FINANCE MANAGER
Jameelah Conway
CIRCULATION MANAGER
Armand Kasselman
BUSINESS MANAGER – SALES
Danie Nell
danie.nell@media24.com
GENERAL ENQUIRIES
Yumna Tofey
yumna.tofey@media24.com
COVER IMAGE
ALAMY.COM
PRINTED BY
CTP PRINTERS
One of my favourite types of art is street art, like the pieces highlighted by Jo Buitendach
in her article on pg 30. Not only do you enjoy the art yourself but also the way people come to
a standstill for a moment to view or interact with the art.
At the bottom of Adderley Street, Cape Town, there is a tiny square called Pier Place. It is
much smaller than Greenmarket Square and Thibault Square, but it sits in the shadows of
several busy restaurants and office buildings. It’s close to our offices in the Media24 Centre.
The square has a couple of benches for office workers who need a break, and people use this
space daily. There was even a time when I would often see a group of men play pétanque
(a type of bowling with a set of silver balls) during their coffee breaks. The square also has
a couple of bronze statues. In the one corner, a life-size statue of a man walking with his
hands in his pockets, on the other side, a
child crouching in play, his bronze scooter
cemented in the ground a few steps away,
and in the top corner sits a man, staring
at Adderley Street with a far-off look and
a folded newspaper in his hands. It’s this
statue that gets the most attention. Tourists
often sit next to him on the bench and pose
for photos. Some even drape a comforting
arm around his shoulders. Once I even
saw a man (he was admittedly a little tipsy)
deliver a finger-wagging sermon to this
bronze figure. People love to talk their
heads off to that statue.
Street art isn’t new. A 33-metre high
statue (about the same size as the Statue
of Liberty in New York) celebrating the
Greek god Helio was erected on the Greek island of Rhodos in the year 280 B.C. This statue,
which was destroyed by an earthquake a few years later, is regarded as one of the Seven
Ancient Wonders of the World. In our own country, the San made rock art long before anyone
thought about creating graffiti art against a wall. Street art isn’t just beautiful, it also creates a
safer environment and improves the relationship between the community and surrounding
businesses, writes Grace Austin in the online article The importance of street art. It can even
have a positive effect on the economy.
“Backed by the ‘broken window theory’, order and beauty motivates more individuals to act
responsibly in the community, seeing that it is already established. Without urban art, a sense
that environments are already disturbed and therefore can continue to be abused or used
inappropriately may continue. If the environment is cared for, drug use, crime, robbery, and
vandalism decline statistically. When one window breaks, disorder can erupt.”
May artists help us to beautify our cities and maintain these spaces for years to come.
Gerda
Gerda_travel
Gerda drapes a
comforting arm
around the statue.
3
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The summer
issue of AA
Traveller will be
distributed in the
first week of
December
2022.
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

56
50
12
Contents
23
3
Gerda says
Art makes our cities more
beautiful - and safer
5
Willem says
Fuel pricing should undergo
an in-depth review
7
Layton says
Road safety deserves
more focus
8 AA report
The safety of entrylevel
vehicles in SA
is “encouraging”
10
NCAP crash tests
Safety performance of
the Suzuki S-presso is
“far from satisfactory”
TRAVEL
12
Karoo adventure
This region is full of surpirses
18 Explore the outdoors in
Gauteng
A list of reserves and parks
close to Jozi and Pretoria
23 Tour the Overberg in
a motorhome
Greet the eels and make
history at L’Agulhas
30 Street art in Jozi
See what magnificent public
art this city has on display
34
On foot through the
British Isles – an area
with epic hiking routes
38 Phillipolis
Visits “the Stellenbosch
of the Free State”
LIFESTYLE
44
The snail expert
Mary Cole has identified
and named 58 species in SA
47
Vusani Ravele, owner
of the décor and furniture
brand Native Décor, shares
his road to success
50 Spring in the kitchen
Add some flair to your plate
with these unusual recipes
56 Photography
Sam Reinders shares 12 tips
on taking low-light photos
61 Books
We've got two exciting
adventure stories and
a local writer to add
to your reading list
62
Hooray for SA!
Support local businesses
this Heritage Month
MOTORING
65
Dangerous driving
You should avoid
these bad habits
68
First Impressions
We test drive the Peugeot
208, Hyundai Tucson, Citroën
C3 Aircross, and Volvo XC60
72
MPVs making their mark
The Kia Carnival, Opel
Zafira Life, Hyundai Staria,
and VW Kombi add some
excitement to the multipurpose
vehicle segment
77
Puzzles
Give your brain a workout
with our head-scratchers
79
Stay the night
Here is a list of AArecommended
accommodation
establishments
82
Last word
You don't need much
to explore SA
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

Letter from the AA CEO
Spring has sprung,
so let’s enjoy it!
The AA is the champion of South
African consumers, and we work
tirelessly on their behalf to raise
issues of importance. One of
these relates to the fuel price,
others include vehicle safety, road safety
generally, and matters of legislation that
impact people’s lives.
Recently, we been inundated by people
asking our views on rising fuel costs, and what
we make of the arguments urging for the
deregulation of the petrol price. Our response
is that any steps that benefit consumers is
something we support because consumers
form the backbone of our economy. There are
many angles to the debate on deregulation
to be sure, with some suggesting it is the
solution to rising fuel costs. It is not.
PAGE SLOWLY THROUGH THIS EDITION
OF THE MAGAZINE, ENJOY EVERY
ARTICLE, AND REVEL IN THE BEAUTY OF
OUR COUNTRY. WE ARE AN INCREDIBLE
NATION WITH INCREDIBLE STORIES, AND
I AM DELIGHTED THAT WE CAN REFLECT
ALL OF THAT AND MORE IN THESE PAGES.
Our fuel price will still be dictated by
international markets, whose machinations
are beyond our government’s control, and by
factors our government has little influence
over. This raises the issue of the taxes added
to our fuel price, and whether they should be
scrapped. Our view is that scrapping these
taxes will simply force government to look at
other areas to tax, either by increasing existing
taxes or creating new taxes. Scrapping fuel
taxes now could lead to consumers ultimately
being worse off, a Pyrrhic victory which noone
wants.
The view of the AA is that fuel pricing
requires in-depth review and a wholesale
audit of the existing elements which
constitute the costs of a litre of fuel. Once
this exercise is completed (in an open,
transparent, and inclusive manner), we will be
in better position to determine a sustainable
way forward for our fuel price. Let’s start
here, and not by grabbing at what seem to be
easy pickings. For us, this is the responsible
approach.
As we enter spring, I’m sure many of you
can’t wait to see the back of what has, for
me at least, been an unusually cold winter.
The new season – especially spring – always
brings a new outlook and fresh perspectives,
and its apt that in this time the AA is working
extremely hard on ramping up our offerings to
you and the way in which we interact with you.
That’s why we’re investing heavily in our digital
platforms and making sure your customer
experiences with the association are worldclass
and exceed your expectations.
This edition of AA Traveller is again
crammed with amazing articles and
photographs, and I take great pride in knowing
such a high-quality magazine is produced by
the AA for its members and the public. Apart
from the latest #SaferCarsForAfrica results,
there is a great piece on nature reserves in
the Gauteng area for those who want a break
from the daily hustle and bustle of the city,
and an inspirational article on Native Décor
owner and founder Vusani Ravele’s journey
to success.
Page slowly through this edition of the
magazine, enjoy every article, and revel in the
beauty of our country. We are an incredible
nation with incredible stories, and I am
delighted that we can reflect all of that and
more in these pages.
Drive safely, obey the rules of the road, and
enjoy spring. I know I will.
Yours,
Willem Groenewald
CEO | AASA
5
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

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AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

Opinion
Road safety is off
track in South Africa
Image: supplied
BY LAYTON BEARD, HEAD: PR, ADVOCACY & INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS, AA SOUTH AFRICA
I
recently spoke at the Southern African
physical disabilities for the rest of their lives,
Transport Conference, an annual event that should be enough reason for us to seriously
deals with issues related road infrastructure, reconsider our approach to road safety and road
traffic management, and road safety. Experts safety education and awareness.
and academics from across the region are
And I’m not talking about the road safety
invited to speak at this forum, which provides a initiatives the AA thinks should be implemented.
good snapshot of the current and future road I’m saying the very issue of road safety as a
situation in our country and the greater southern concept doesn’t garner near enough attention. For
African region.
instance, we have limited road safety awareness
I spoke at the session on the Decade of Action campaigns during specific festive periods in our
for Road Safety and specifically addressed the country. Why then only? Why are these campaigns
issue of vehicle safety, highlighting, amongst not ubiquitous every day of the year? And what
others, the AA’s involvement in the crash
about road safety education in schools?
testing of locally available vehicles through the Countries where road safety education and
#SaferCarsForAfrica programme. The Decade of awareness are taken seriously have shown
Action is an international campaign seeking to marked decreases in road crashes and fatalities
halve the number of road deaths on the world’s and concomitant benefits to the economy. In
roads by 2030. Given South Africa’s dire road an economy as fragile as ours, each cent saved
safety situation, it’s an important campaign and through improved road safety is a cent earned for
one our government has committed to.
the general economy.
I mention all of this because the patron of
So, it’s a little disheartening that the patron
the conference is the Minister of Transport, Mr of a conference dealing with road safety fails to
Fikile Mbalula, who was scheduled to deliver the make an appearance, whatever the reason quite
opening address at the session. His involvement, frankly. It sends a message that the conference,
and indeed that of his department, is naturally and the important themes it is addressing, are
critical to achieving road safety targets through not worthy of his time. It sends a message that the
the provision of regulations, infrastructure, and academics and experts, and the representatives
personnel. Sadly, Mr Mbalula did not make the of the many NGO’s and interest groups who in
event and did not deliver his opening address fact did attend, are on their own. It sends the
(even though, I would imagine, plans could have message that the excellent work done by private
been made for him to do so virtually).
individuals to improve road safety for the public is
Road safety is a serious topic and deserves not recognised nor appreciated.
way more attention in our society than what it Yes, there were representatives from the
currently gets. I’m not using the privilege of the RTMC who attended the conference, and their
space I have here to rant about this. I’m merely contributions are still invaluable. But when the
pointing out that the economic benefits of
political head of the department responsible for
improved road safety are to everyone’s advantage. transport (and by extension road safety) doesn’t
Yet too little is being done to actually make this make an appearance at a conference such as this
improvement. In 2015, for instance, the Road (where he is the patron) questions must be raised.
Traffic Management Corporation (RTMC)
Our country faces many challenges and road
estimated that vehicle crashes in South Africa safety is one of them. Don’t think that because it’s
cost the economy around R145 billion (yes, with a topic not spoken about as often as increased fuel
a ‘b’) annually. Extrapolated and accounting for prices or the energy crisis, it’s not important. It
inflation, this figure is closer to R200 billion in may not have the same impact as rolling blackouts,
2022, a huge chunk of money that could be better but it’s nonetheless something that should get
spent in other areas of our society.
more focus. Our country simply can’t afford not to.
Not only that, the loss of life, and the daily
difficulties of those who must live with severe Layton
Follow Layton on
Twitter @LaytonBeard
7
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

2022 AA ENTRY-
LEVEL VEHICLE
SAFETY REPORT
‘ENCOURAGING’
The inclusion of vehicle safety features on entry-level vehicles is
improving with the majority of cars in this category offering moderate to
acceptable safety features. This is according to the 2022 AA Entry-Level
Vehicle Safety (ELVS) Report, which assesses available safety features
on entry-level vehicles available locally.
8
The ELVS Report was
done using desktop
research methodology.
The value threshold for
vehicles considered
was raised from
previous years to R270 000. Thirtyeight
vehicles were included in this
year’s report and were assessed
for the safety features stated in
written literature about vehicles in
available printed or online brochures.
The report does not consider the
structural integrity of the driver/
passenger compartment.
The 38 vehicles were categorised
into three groups based on their
safety ratings. These categories are:
acceptable safety, moderate safety,
and poor safety.
In the 2022 ELVS Report, four
vehicles are categorised as
having poor safety, 23 are placed
in the moderate safety category,
and 11 vehicles are placed in the
acceptable safety category.
In terms of true safety points
attained, points of 20 or less are
considered as having ‘poor’ safety.
Safety points between 20 and 50 can
be considered as having ‘moderate’
safety, and safety points of 50 and
above can be considered as having
‘acceptable' safety.
“The fact that so many vehicles
offer moderate or acceptable
safety is extremely encouraging
and indicates that manufacturers
are taking the presence of critical
vehicle safety equipment seriously.
This is a good trend, and we hope to
see even fewer vehicles in the poor
category in the years ahead,” says
the AA.
Two important figures provide
context for the development of the
ELVS: South Africa’s high annual
road fatality figures and the growing
vehicle population in the country.
In 2021, South Africa recorded
12 541 road fatalities. The current
vehicle population in the country,
according to official figures from
the Road Traffic Management
Corporation (RTMC), is 11 726 476,
with just over 7,6 million being motor
vehicles and just over 2,6 million
being light duty vehicles/bakkies.
“The purpose of the research is to provide
consumers with a starting point for vehicle
purchases, be they new or second-hand.
We point out what safety features are stated
as being available on these vehicles and
urge consumers to consider these a priority
as part of their decision-making process”
“The purpose of the research
is to provide consumers with a
starting point for vehicle purchases,
be they new or second-hand. We
point out what safety features are
stated as being available on these
vehicles and urge consumers to
consider these a priority as part of
their decision-making process,” says
the AA.
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

AA report
AA Entry Level
Vehicle Classification
Fiat
500 0.9L FWD SMT
Suzuki
Baleno 1.4 Manual
Suzuki
S-Presso 1.0 Manual
BAIC
D20 Hatchback 1.3+5MT Comfort
GWM
Steed 5 Double Cab 2.2 Mpi
4x2 Base F/L
JMC
Landwind 5 2.0T Lux
Mahindra
KUV 100 NXT
Renault
Triber 1.0l Expression 5-dr
Toyota
Agya 1.0 MT
JMC
Carrying S/C SWB 1.6 Ton
Dropside STD
Not definitive
The AA points out, however, that
this research does not provide a
definitive measure of a vehicle’s
safety, which can only be
determined through crash-testing.
“The data presented in the ELVS,
nonetheless, provides an indication
of a vehicle’s safety equipment. The
large vehicle population and the
country’s high road fatality figure
point to a need for extensive road
safety education and the need for
better road safety management
in the country. They also point to
a need for consumers to prioritise
safety in the vehicles they purchase.
The ELVS Report should serve as a
basis for their research,” the AA says.
The 38 vehicles surveyed for the
2022 ELVS Report were evaluated
against the number of active
safety features they have (anti-lock
braking systems, electronic stability
control), and passive safety features
(airbags). Points are awarded to
vehicles for the existence of each
of the active and passive safety
features. Additional points are
Honda
Amaze 1.2 Trend Manual
Suzuki
Celerio 1.0 GA MT
Suzuki
Swift 1.2 Manual
BAIC
X25 SUV 1.5 + MT
GWM
Steed 5 Single Cab 2.2 Mpi
4x2 Workhorse F/L
Kia
Pegas 1.4 MT LX
Mahindra
PIK UP Single Cab S4 4x2
Suzuki
Ciaz 1.5 Manual
Toyota
Rumion 1.5 S MT
JMC
Carrying S/C SWB Chassis Cab
Mahindra
XUV 300 W4
Suzuki
Dzire 1.2 Manual
Toyota
Starlet 1.4 Xi MT
Datsun
Go A (O) Mid
Hyundai
Atos 1.1 Motion MT
Kia
Picanto 1.0 MT Smart
Nissan
NP200 1.6 8V Base
Suzuki
Ertiga 1.4 Manual
Volkswagen
Polo Vivo 55kW Trendline
Mahindra
Bolero BMT
awarded to vehicles crash tested
under the NCAP system, in this case
Global NCAP’s #SaferCarsforAfrica
programme.
Of the 38 vehicles researched in
2022, 34 are equipped with anti-lock
braking systems (ABS) and 33 are
equipped with driver and passenger
airbags. Despite this positive
showing, only seven of the vehicles
researched have electronic stability
control (ESC). The least common
safety feature was curtain airbags
(no vehicles) and side airbags (only
one vehicle).
In 2019, the AA supported the
#StopTheCrash partnership to
demonstrate the effectiveness of,
amongst other technologies, ESC
and ABS. The technologies which
were showcased have the potential
to save thousands of lives every
year, and the United Nations has
developed international standards
to help encourage countries around
the world to mandate these lifesaving
technologies.
“The inclusion of these safety
features protects motorists, it’s as
2022
Renault
Kwid 1.0l Expression 5-dr ABS
Suzuki
Ignis 1.2 Manual
Datsun
Go+ A (O) Mid
Hyundai
Grand i10 1.0 Motion Manual
Mahindra
KUV 100 #XPREZ Panel Van
Renault
Kiger 1.0l Energy Life
Suzuki
Vitara Brezza 1.5 Manual
Suzuki
Super Carry 1.2 Pick-Up
Compiled by the Automobile Association 2022
simple as that. The inclusion of ESC,
for instance, must be considered
more seriously by manufacturers as
this is proven technology which can
reduce road crashes. We reiterate
our call that this technology come
as standard for entry-level vehicles
available in South Africa,” says the AA.
The AA notes that this is desktop
research and that the definitive
measure of a vehicle’s safety can only
be acquired through crash testing.
Similar to the Datsun Go+, the Nissan
NP300 would have scored highly in
this research, but it scored zero stars
in the Global NCAP crash testing.
The data presented here should be
used as an indication of a vehicle’s
safety equipment, and not as the
sole indicator of the vehicle’s overall
safety rating.
The report’s safety/
affordability index
In addition to scoring the vehicles
purely on safety features and
awarding true safety points, the ELVS
Report also considers safety weighed
against affordability. In this scenario,
the score achieved by a vehicle
for its safety features is measured
against its cost to arrive at a safety/
affordability score. The index can be
used as a guide to understand the
“affordability of safety” proposition
of vehicles.
For this report, a score of four
points and above can be seen as
“acceptable safety/affordability”, a
score between three and 3,99 points
can be seen as “moderate safety/
affordability”, whereas 2,99 points and
below can be seen as “poor safety/
affordability”.
In 2022, five vehicles fall
under the “acceptable safety/
affordability” category, eight
vehicles fall under the “moderate
safety/affordability” category, and
25 vehicles fall under the “poor
safety/affordability” categories.
A complete breakdown of the
affordability/safety index, and the
methodology used to calculate the
scores, is explained and set out in the
ELVS Report.
9
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

Maruti Suzuki S-Presso’s
safety performance in SA
fails to impress
10
This vehicle is manufactured
in India and scored three
stars for adult occupant
protection and two stars for
child occupant protection.
The model was previously
tested by Global NCAP for
the Indian market in 2020. It
scored a zero star rating for
adult occupant protection
and two stars for child
occupant protection.
Global NCAP and the AA
South Africa launched
the latest result for the
#SaferCarsForAfrica
campaign under its current
test protocols at the end of June, with the
welcome support of the FIA Foundation
and Bloomberg Philanthropies. From July
2022, the assessment protocols will be
updated to include side impact, electronic
stability control (ESC), and pedestrian
protection requirements.
Following reports that the Suzuki
S-Presso version sold in South Africa had
a better safety performance, Global NCAP
decided to put the claims to the test. The
local version is fitted with two airbags
as standard. During the assessment the
S-Presso structure demonstrated an
unstable performance and the driver’s
chest showed a weak protection level,
marginally avoiding a two star rating. Levels
of child occupant protection showed the
same performance as the version sold
in India.
The lack of ISOFIX anchorages and
three-point belts in all seating positions
and the decision of Maruti Suzuki not
to recommend a child restraint system
(CRS) explain this poor child occupant
protection score.
Alejandro Furas, secretary general of
Global NCAP said: “The safety performance
of the S-Presso in South Africa has
been far from satisfactory and claims of
improvement are not reflected in levels of
child occupant protection, which remain
the same as the Indian version we tested in
2020. There has been significant progress
with vehicle safety in the Indian market
with a welcome requirement for the fitment
of six airbags as standard. We hope that
Maruti Suzuki will not apply a double
standard for the vehicles they sell in Africa
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

AA Report
The #SaferCarsForAfrica Campaign
was launched by Global NCAP in 2017
with the objective of promoting safer
vehicles across the continent.
Launched in 2011, Global NCAP is
a programme of the UK registered
charity the Towards Zero Foundation.
Global NCAP serves as a platform
for cooperation among NCAPs
worldwide, providing financial,
technical and advocacy support
to new programmes in emerging
markets. Global NCAP leads the
Stop the Crash Partnership and
has consultative status with the
UN (ECOSOC), is a member of the
UN Road Safety Collaboration, and
an observer at the UN World
Forum for Harmonisation of
Vehicle Standards.
In 2016, Global NCAP received the
Premier Prince Michael International
Road Safety Award for outstanding
achievement in vehicle safety. In
2020, the Towards Zero Foundation
achieved the Premier Prince Michael
International Road Safety Award for
the #50by30 advocacy campaign.
For more information, go to:
twitter.com/globalncap; facebook.
com/globalncap; instagram.com/
globalncap; www.globalncap.org
compared to those sold in India.”
David Ward, Executive President of the
Towards Zero Foundation added: “As our
current test protocols come to an end in
Africa, it is important to see manufacturers
continue their commitment to high
standards of vehicle safety. Some continue
to do well but we remain disappointed with
others. Sadly, Maruti Suzuki fall into this later
category, where the rhetoric on safety is
simply not matched by the reality.”
Willem Groenewald, CEO of the AA South
Africa says: “While the adult occupancy
result for the S-Presso is encouraging there
is room for improvement, especially in
relation to the child protection rating. The
safety of motorists in South Africa is critical
and we welcome the visible efforts by
manufacturers in this regard and urge them
to continue investing in this important facet
of their production.”
Maruti Suzuki S-PRESSO - 2 AIRBAGS
ADULT OCCUPANT PROTECTION
DRIVER
CHILD RESTRAINTS
18 MONTH OLD CHILD
3 YEAR OLD CHILD
SAFETY EQUIPMENT
CHILD RESTRAINT
BRITAX BABYSAFE
BRITAX DUO PLUS
FRONT SEATBELT PRETENSIONERS YES
DRIVER FRONTAL AIRBAG
FRONT PASSENGER
PASSENGER FRONTAL AIRBAG
YES
YES
Suzuki S-Presso (2 airbags)
To read the full crash test report
and view images and video of the
crash test, visit aa.co.za/crash-test.
GOOD
ADEQUATE
MARGINAL
WEAK
POOR
HEAD / CHEST
PROTECTED/ POOR
POOR / WEAK
SIDE BODY AIRBAGS
SIDE HEAD AIRBAGS
Tested at 64 km/h
CAR DETAILS
CRS TYPE
ADULT OCCUPANT
The protection offered to the driver’s and passenger’s head and neck was good. Driver’s chest showed weak protection and passenger’s chest showed
adequate protection. Driver’s knees showed marginal protection as they can impact with dangerous structures behind the dashboard supported by the
transfascia tube. Passenger’s knees showed good protection. Driver’s left tibia and both passengers tibias showed adequate protection and driver’s
right tibia showed marginal protection. The bodyshell and footwell area were rated as unstable and they were not capable of withstanding further
loadings. The car offers standard SBR for driver and passenger but does not meet Global NCAP requirement. All of the above explains the three stars
for adult occupant protection.
CHILD OCCUPANT
The manufacturer refused to recommend CRSs for the test. The child seat for the 3 year old was installed FWF using the adult seatbelt and it was not
able to prevent excessive head excursion during the impact, offering poor protection to the head and weak to the chest. The child seat for the 1.5 year
old was installed RWF using the adult seatbelt and offered good protection to the head and poor to the chest. CRS marking was ok. The CRSs did not
show incompatibility. The vehicle does not have 3 point belts in all seating positions (lap belt in the rear centre position). All of the above explains the
two stars for child occupant protection.
0+
DRIVER KNEE AIRBAG NO
1
NO
NO
8.96 max. 17.00 Adult
15.00 max. 49.00 Child
Bodyshell integrity: UNSTABLE
TESTED MODEL Maruti Suzuki S-Presso, RHD
BODY TYPE 5 DOOR MINI SUV
CRASH TEST WEIGHT KG 985
YEAR OF PUBLICATION 2022
ADJUST
SEAT BELT
SEAT BELT
SBR
POSITION
RWF
FWF
ISOFIX ANCHORAGES
ABS (4 CHANNEL)
YES
NO
YES
11
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

Road trip
he Karoo
12
IT'S A
VIBE

Echinopsis
spachiana, or
queen of the
night, only blooms
under specific
circumstances.
DANIELLE MCDONALD
EXPECTED DUSTY ROADS AND
ARID LANDSCAPES ON HER
KAROO GETAWAY, BUT SHE
WAS CAPTIVATED BY THE EERIE
BEAUTY OF THE VALLEY OF
DESOLATION AND DISCOVERED
THAT THIS REGION HAS AN
EXTRAVAGANT, JOVIAL SIDE TO IT.
13
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

Road trip
The post office in
Nieu-Bethesda
14
MY dad comes from the Great
Karoo – from the region of
Steynsburg. His stories about
the area made it sound like
an arid and lacklustre place.
His tales conjured up images
of tumbleweeds rolling
across empty plains, like in
a Wiley Coyote cartoon, or a dusty windmill next to
a dilapidated farmhouse. But when my cousin told
me about the quaint little town of Nieu-Bethesda and
of an unexpected, not-to-be-missed performance in
Steytlerville, I decided to give the Karoo a chance.
Now I can’t help but wonder why my dad never told
me about how the Karoo transforms into someplace
magical after it rains! Maybe he forgot about the
excitement in the air when people get together to
discuss who got how much rain. Or how the bar in
town decides to invite everyone to their impromptu
bring-and-braai just after sunset. My dad never told me
that the Karoo has a vibe!
Graaff-Reinet
Our first stop is Graaff-Reinet. The Valley of
Desolation has always been on my travel list. It’s
one of the few national parks I haven’t visited, so we
book accommodation at the Camdeboo National
Park’s tented camp.
It’s difficult to describe the valley’s effect on
your soul. You get an eery feeling looking over the
ancient rock formations as thunder clouds blanket
the sky. More than 100 million years ago, the Valley
of Desolation was created by powerful volcanic and
erosive forces. Giant columns of dolerite balance
precariously on each other and drop sharply to the
valley’s floor below. It looks like pillars rising from the
earth – some up to 120 metres!
There is a nice hiking route up on the cliffs above
the valley. It’s only 1,5 km, and I spot someone on the
route in Crocs, so you don’t even need proper shoes!
The valley is a national heritage site, and it even has
one of those large yellow frames – the perfect spot to
pose for social media photos. I can’t help myself, and
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

my husband has no choice but to be patient and play
along. By the time we light the fire that night, my heart
is full. I’m already impressed by the Karoo, and I’m
looking forward to whatever adventures lay ahead.
The next morning, we stop in town for breakfast,
and I realise something I didn’t expect: The Karoo is
fancy. Something else my dad didn’t think to tell me.
Maybe no-one told him? The buildings are striking,
and it’s clear that Graaff-Reinetters take pride in their
town. There are more than 220 national monuments
in Graaff-Reinet, more than any other town in South
Africa! And they have beautifully renovated Cape-
Dutch, Victorian, and Edwardian buildings. The
oldest houses in town are still in the typical flat-roofed
Karoo style, and then there is the awe-inspiring old
church that looks like an European cathedral – one
of the biggest Dutch Reformed Church buildings
in the country.
Elsewhere in town, you’ll even find a German beer
garden, but it’s a little too early in the morning, and
we still have a lot of exploring to do. At the coffee
shop, they sell Belgium beers and I overhear people
chat about the Stoep (porch) Festival. It will take place
in May and will be hosted by the Karoo Wine Club.
Ahem. The Karoo Wine Club? Let that sink in. I think
it’s the perfect excuse for a return visit. You could stay
here for days!
Handmade in Nieu-Bethesda
Our next stop is 50 km away. We leave behind the
plains for mountains and valleys, and our Polo’s wipers
barely make it through a swarm of locusts. The Karoo
has had exceptionally good rainfall this year. The
landscape changes dramatically when you approach
Nieu-Bethesda, which is nestled in a valley. It looks like
nothing I imagined in the Karoo.
Nieu-Bethesda is popular amongst travellers – it’s
the ideal stop for Gautengers on their way to the
coast in December. But it wasn’t always the jewel it is
today. The town only got electricity in 1991, and it still
doesn’t have any ATMs or petrol stations. This might
have put me off when I was younger, but these days it’s
ABOVE: The Karoo
Handmade Festival
ABOVE LEFT: The one
thing the Karoo has
plenty of is space.
>
15
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

Road trip
16
something I can appreciate. The weather here is very
unpredictable and according to local legend, it once
snowed on Christmas Day!
Without the least ado, I see a familiar face, and
I immediately feel like this is my kind of town.
The owner of The Village Inn, Elbé, is an old
acquaintance from my Stellenbosch days. She moved
back home during lockdown and is now in charge of
the restaurant here. She tells me that the town has
about 85 permanent inhabitants – and more than 30
guesthouses. Weekends are always busy and in the
week, it’s nice and quiet.
The local tourism office is a jovial bunch, and
there is usually something happening over the
weekends: from a Garlic Festival to a Christmas in
July and the famous Festival of Lights over New Years.
Coincidentally, there is a festival on during our
visit. We walk to the festival on a dirt road because
everything in Nieu-Bethesda is within walking
distance. We follow the culvert past the Owl House and
as we past the first stall, Elbé stops dead in her tracks
and points towards a cactus. “You should keep an eye
out; they might flower tonight.” I don’t pay her much
heed because who expects flowers in the Karoo?
AT THE ENTRANCE OF TOWN, WE STOP
AT TOT HIER TOE FARMSTALL AND BUY
THE TASTIEST LAMB CHOPS. I SWEAR,
I WOULD DRIVE ALL THE WAY BACK
TO NIEU-BETHESDA JUST TO GET MY
HANDS ON THOSE SKILDPADJIES AGAIN.
At the Karoo Handmade Festival, local producers
have their wares on display in the garden of a lovely
old house. We sit under an umbrella and socialise with
Elbé’s friends and talk about the locust plague and
everyone agrees that the area is in for a lot of rain.
Someone’s cellphone rings: Oom Boet’s bar is having a
bring-and-braai, so we need to buy some meat. At least
finding good-quality meat in the Karoo is easy.
At the entrance of town, we stop at Tot Hier Toe
Farmstall and buy the tastiest lamb chops. I swear, I
would drive all the way back to Nieu-Bethesda just to
get my hands on those skildpadjies again.
At Oom Boet’s bar the locals aren’t used to strangers
crashing their parties, and heads turn when we walk
in. Oom Boet is a nice guy, but a woman sitting at one
of the tables asks in a rather bad-tempered tone who I
am. She’s satisfied when she learns that I’m married,
and I’m not interested in her ex. Good thing I’m
from a small town myself, so reactions like this don’t
faze me.
That night the rain falls on the tin roof of our
Airbnb and the smell of rain and dust hangs in the air.
I learn the meaning of the word ‘petrichor’ – the smell
of the rain.
The queen of the night
The next morning, we head out at around 10:00. We
drive through Graaff-Reinet again on our way to
Steytlerville. On the other side of the Sundays River,
the landscape looks a lot different from yesterday.
There are large, white flowers as far as the eye can see.
I call Elbé and ask he where they come from. She tells
me it’s the queen of the night (Echinopsis spachiana).
It’s what she was talking about yesterday when I didn’t
want to listen.
These cacti only flower under specific circumstance:
it must be warm, and it must rain. They flower at night,
and the white blooms only last until the next morning.
This is because they lose too much water when they
flower. It’s a special survival mechanism in this semidessert
environment.
I realise how unbelievably lucky I am to experience
this. On the road the Steytlerville, we stop every now
and then to take photos of the flowers, unaware that
we’re on our way to meet another type of ‘queen of the
night’.
Steytlerville
If you’ve never heard of the Karoo Theatrical Hotel, do
yourself a favour and get a group of friends together
and go. Here, where you might least expect it, in an
art-deco style, semi-Mediterranean hotel, you can
watch a real drag-show.
When the sun sets, you grab a mask or hat, and just
after sundowners on the stoep, it’s time for the big
event. The Steytlerville Follies Production kicks off
with Dame Leyla Lamborghini, accompanied by the
show’s host and old pro Freddy Ferrari on the grand
piano. The food is traditional Karoo fare: bobotie
as a starter and lamb shank as the main; the dessert
table includes malva pudding and milk tart, plus port
and cheese.
The performance is so eccentric and unusual that
you can’t help but enjoy it. Even the khaki-clad men,
dragged all the way from Qqeberha by their wives,
can’t help but guffaw behind their theatre masks.
What I expected from the Karoo was so far removed
from what I experienced that I’ll have to go back to
make up for lost time.
Towards the end of the night, while sitting in the
hall of the Karoo Theatrical Hotel and listening to
Leyla Lamborghini’s rendition of Life is a Cabaret,
amongst a bunch of strangers who feel like we could
easily become friends, I suddenly feel so happy to be a
South African. In this country, you often end up in a
lekker place, especially when you least expect it.
Photos: Konrad Raubenheimer. Additional images: Getty / Gallo Images
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

GOOD
TO
KNOW
CLOCKWISE FROM
THE TOP: The Valley of
Desolation; as Karoothemed
as a garden can
get; a different kind of
beauty; a fabulous show
at the Karoo Theatrical
Hotel.
GRAAFF-REINET
For the Camdeboo National
Park, visit sanparks.org/
parks/camdeboo or book
directly via 049 892 3453 or
camdeboo@sanparks.org.
NIEU-BETHESDA
Visit nieubethesdatourism.
co.za for information on
festivals and accommodation.
Tip: Try the Karoo lamb curry
at the Village Inn. And they do
the best fish and chips in the
Karoo.
KAROO THEATRICAL HOTEL
The Steytlerville Follies is on
every Saturday night. If you
want to watch the show, you
need to stay at the hotel, and
they’re often fully booked
a month in advance. Visit
karroohotel.co.za for more
information.
17

18
Witpoortjie Falls at Walter
Sisulu Botanical Garden

Parks & reserves
Explore
THE OUTDOORS
BY THE AA EDITORIAL TEAM
Winter is letting go of its icy grip and giving
way to warmer spring weather. Now is the
perfect time to get out of the house again.
Here are several wonderful outdoor activities
in Gauteng the whole family can enjoy.
MORELETAKLOOF NATURE RESERVE
Nestled amongst the foothills of Moreletakloof, this unexpected
natural treasure covers 100 hectares and is home to various small
game – springbok, zebra, blesbok, impala, duiker, bush buck, and
ostrich – plus several bird species. Hiking trials range from 1,5 km
(wheelchair friendly) to 3,6 km. No dogs or bicycles are allowed in the
reserve. There is a restaurant on the grounds, but no picnic facilities.
ENTRANCE: It’s free and open between 06:00 en 18:00 daily.
MODDERFONTEIN
Modderfontein is a privately-owned, 265-hectar open area halfway
between Johannesburg and Pretoria. Not only does this space
aim to protect local fauna and flora, but it also functions
as an outdoor space where city folk can relax and
get in touch with nature. It includes parts of the
Modderfontein Stream, several dams, grasslands,
and hills. You’ll find steenbok, reedbuck, duiker,
black-backed jackal, otter, hedgehogs, and
several meerkat species, plus several hides for
birdwatching and picnic and fishing spots. The
adjacent Taroko farm has amenities for hikers
and mountain bikers.
ENTRANCE: R35 per adult, R20 per child under 12
(additional cost for picnics and fishing)
WALTER SISULU
BOTANICAL GARDEN
In the heart of Roodepoort, you’ll find a
small oasis laid out around the Witpoortjie
Waterfall. The area has been used
recreationally since the 1800s, but it was
only established as a botanical garden in
1982. There is an abundance of wildlife
and about 240 bird species, as well as a
Verreaux's eagle breeding pair that lives at
the top of the waterfall. Three main types
of flora can be found here: Egoli Granite
Grassland, Gold Reef Mountain
Bushveld, and Northern
Afrotemperate Forest.
You’ll notice about
600 different
endemic plant
species in the
garden.
ENTRANCE: R70
for adults; R40
for students and
R20 for learners.
Access is free
for pensioners on
Tuesdays.
>
19
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

GROENKLOOF
NATURE RESERVE
If you live in Pretoria, you don’t
have to travel far to experience
nature. This magnificent reserve
is only 5 km from the city centre.
It has hiking trails (3,7 km,
4,8 km, and 10,5 km), guided
horse-riding tours, a 25 km
mountain biking route (helmets
are compulsory), and a 14 km 4x4
course. You can have a picnic or a
braai (bring your own firewood).
Groenkloof also has overnight
accommodation. The Bamber
Youth Camp can accommodate
school groups of up to 30
learners.
ENTRANCE: R51 for adults; R32 for
pensioners and children under 18.
CRADLE MOON
LAKESIDE GAME LODGE
Want to experience the bushveld
but don’t want to drive too far from
Johannesburg or Pretoria? Cradle
Moon is your answer. It functions as a
wedding venue and conference centre
and hosts sporting events, but it’s
also a 1 600-hectar conservation area
made up of various farms and lodges
in the area. Rhinos, leopards, eland,
kudu, red hartebeest, black- and blue
wildebeest, zebra, duiker, impala,
springbok, blesbok, brown hyena,
and jackals call this area home. The
Cradle Moon Lake has the largest
rock dam in Africa, with a dam wall
that’s more than 20 metres high, 300
metres wide and 10 metres thick at its
base. It was built using rocks found on
the grounds. The lake hosts several
water sports events and is often used
by canoers and fly fishers. And there
is more than 50 km worth of trails for
mountain bikers and hikers.
Overnight in one of the 50 rondawels
on the grounds.
Picnics aren’t allowed, but a
restaurant and bar overlook the
dam wall.
ENTRANCE: R50 conservation fee per
person. If you want to swim, fish, cycle
or hike, there are additional fees.
20
FAERIE GLEN NATURE RESERVE
Located on the slopes of Bronberg, this reserve
is characterised by Gold Reef Mountain
Bushveld flora and Marikana thorn scrub. The
latter is an endangered ecosystem, and this led
to the reserve’s proclamation in 2014. Since
then, animals like impala, red hartebeest, and
zebra have been re-established. It’s also home to
an abundance of bird species, plus two wooden
viewing decks for birdwatchers. There are three
hiking trails: Dadeda (2,3 km), Akasia (3,2 km),
and Kiepersol (4,2 km). Dog owners can walk
their fur babies in the reserve – if they have a
permit (apply for one at the gate) and their dogs
are kept on a leash. There are two informal
picnic spots but no braai facilities.
ENTRANCE: R17 per adult (anyone over the age of
13); R7 for pensioners and for kids under 13.
AA Traveller | SPRING 2021

Parks & reserves
Shen Scott / Alamy Stock Photo Richard van der Spuy / Alamy Stock Photo and Getty/Gallo IImages
KLIPRIVIERSBERG NATURE
RESERVE
This 700-hectar nature reserve is less
than 10 km from Johannesburg’s city
centre, about 5 km from Soweto and 25
km from Sandton. It’s the biggest reserve
in the region and is home to zebra, red
hartebeest, and black wildebeest. And
there are several noteworthy botanical,
archaeological, and cultural treasures as
well. The region has been classified as a
critically important biodiverse area. With
about 230 bird species, it’s a birdwatcher’s
paradise, and hikers also frequent the
reserve. There three trails to choose from
(5 km, 11 km, and 13 km).
ENTRANCE: Free. It’s open from sunrise to
sunset
WONDERBOOM NATURE RESERVE
North of Pretoria, in the Magaliesberg area, you’ll find this
200-hectar reserve, which is named after an exceptional
ficus tree that grows on its grounds. This tree is estimated
to be more than a thousand years old, and legend has it that
the chief of an ancient tribe was buried underneath it, which
explains its enormous size. According to records, there was
a time when the tree was so large that a thousand people
could stand in its shade. Today it’s smaller, presumably
because of a fire, and it is currently in quarantine.
The reserve itself has various small game – monkeys,
dassies, and several bird species. You’ll also find the
Wonderboom Fort here. It’s one of four forts that were built
in the area to protect Pretoria from British forces. At the
foot of the hill, there are two archaeological sites where
Stone and Iron Age digs are currently underway.
ENTRANCE: R39 for adults older than 18 years. R24 for
children and pensioners.
21
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

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Road trip
WORDS & PHOTOS BY EVAN NAUDÉ
Overberg
OFF TO THE
You’ll be surprised by what lies alongside
the N2 between Cape Town and
Mossel Bay. Take some time to explore
the Overberg next time you travel
through this region – it’s worth it!
23
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

Road tripI’ve recently discovered that I
quite like a gin and tonic at
the end of the day, especially
on a hot one like today. It’s
just before lunchtime and
my partner, Sam, and I are
driving along the R305 in the
Overberg, heading towards
the coast. The temperature gauge
of our rented motorhome seems to
have its sights set on the number
40, so when I see the sign for
Inverroche, I pump the brakes and
pull over.
We have been travelling in
a Discoverer 4, essentially an
apartment on wheels, for a week.
So far, we’ve driven familiar routes
through the Cape Winelands,
the Klein Karoo, and the Garden
Route, but it’s the next section
along the Overberg that I look
forward to the most. Even though
it is near our home in Cape Town,
I’ve always skipped the Overberg
In the Overberg,
you'll encounter
quaint seaside towns,
scenic campsites,
countryside
streets lined with
art galleries and
bistros, and even
world renowned
archeological
discoveries.
in favour of destinations farther
away. For the next few days, I aim
to explore this region properly and
see what its back roads and small
countryside towns have to offer.
And a premium gin distillery is as
good a starting point as any!
EELS, ROCK ART AND
KITEBOARDING
After inspecting the distillery, I
reluctantly resist the gin tasting
experience at Inverroche since
there is still some driving left to
do today. The first town on our
itinerary is the popular seaside
village of Stilbaai. It’s been decades
since I’ve been there, and I’m
surprised at how much the town has
developed. When I mention this to
Sam, she casually says: “The only
thing I know Stilbaai for is the eels.”
Now that’s not something you hear
every day, I think, and immediately
head for the Stilbaai Tourism
Bureau in Langenhoven Street.
A few minutes later I find myself
peering into a pond outside the
Palinggat Homestead where
the tourism office is located.
Unfortunately, we are too late to see
the eels (they only show themselves
at 11 am, when it’s feeding time),
since they hide under rocks in
the pond from the heat during
the day. I was especially hoping
to see Piet, the biggest of the 10
longfin eels in the pond, who is
said to be a whopping 1,2-meters
long. These eels have been calling
Stilbaai home for about 125 years,
and when they mature (aged 10
to 20 years), they embark on an
incredible journey downstream to
the ocean and onwards all the way
to Madagascar in order to mate and
spawn. Eventually, their offsprings
return to the same area where their
parents lived.
In the museum inside the
homestead, we view antiques and
monochrome photographs of
bygone days. An exhibit explains
the findings at the nearby Blombos
Cave, an important archaeological
site that lends insight to the
I’ve always skipped the Overberg in favour of
destinations father away. For the next few
days, I aim to explore this region properly.
24

cultural and behavioural evolution
of humankind. I squint at a tiny
replica of a piece of ochre with
diagonal markings on it. This early
art piece, said to be 75 000 years
old, is thought to be the oldest
known rock drawing in the world.
Next, we drive down to the
beach, but a howling wind prevents
a picnic on the sand. Instead, we
whip up some sandwiches in the
motorhome’s kitchen and sit and
watch kite surfers making the most
of the weather conditions in the
mouth of the Goukou River. Later
we catch a glimpse of ancient fish
traps (that work like tidal pools to
trap fish) at low tide before heading
to our campsite at the nearby
seaside resort of Jongensfontein.
A HAMLET, A FARM STALL
AND A FERRY
The next morning, I point the
motorhome in the direction of
Witsand, a small settlement at
the mouth of the Breede River
about 74 km on a dirt road from
Jongensfontein. En route, we pass
Vermaaklikheid, a rural hamlet
devoid of shops, tar roads, and
decent cell reception. It is, however,
exactly the type of place you’d want
to escape to if you want privacy,
seclusion, and tranquillity. Most
of the available accommodation
here have access to the nearby
Duiwenhoks River, the perfect
place to swim, canoe, fish, or simply
observe the abundant birdlife
without distraction.
We add Vermaaklikheid to our
‘next time’-list and continue to
Witsand, named for the sprawling
white dunes around the mouth of
the Breede River. Next to Witsand
lies Port Beauford (named after
Cape governor Lord Charles
Somerset’s father), which has served
as a trading port since the early
1800s. At the river mouth, we find
the same blustery weather, again
only appreciated by a handful
of kite surfers.
“At the end of this trip I think
I’ll be done with padstalle!” Sam
laughs as we stop at The Woolshed
on the edge of town. Indeed, our
trip so far has included countless
farm stalls in an assortment of
themes, including parking lots
covered in pumpkins, sheds full of
antiques, retro themed diners, and
the upmarket boutique farm stalls
of the wine route. Yet none matched
the variety of handmade goods
on offer at The Woolshed. I could
stock my braai room, camp site,
wardrobe, kitchen, and the whole
family’s Christmas stockings with
the selection on offer. In the end,
we settle for dried fruits, fudge and
>
While artists have
rejuvenated old
spaces in villages like
Napier and Greyton,
the seaside towns of
Stilbaai, Struisbaai,
and Witsand retain
their classic appeal
with sprawling
beaches, tidal pools,
and colourful ice
cream stands.
25
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

Road trip
26
Take the back
roads beyond the
N2 and you'll soon
find yourself on
the southernmost
tip of Africa, in a
countryside town with
old-timey charm or
even on a ferry over
the Breede River.
a couple of coffees before hitting
the road again.
The Breede River does not have
many safe crossings, so the R324
leads you back to Swellendam on
the N2 before you can continue
west along the coastline.
There is one other option
available if you don’t mind
long gravel roads through the
countryside. About 30 km from
Witsand, the Malgas Ferry will
take you over the Breede (look out
for the turn-off after 18 km) and
deliver you on the western side of
the river. From here it’s 53 km of
dirt road to the Bredasdorp road,
a scenic drive through farmlands
where the only other traffic you’re
likely to encounter are bakkies with
cattle rails on the back.
THE VERY TIP OF AFRICA
It’s about noon on a Saturday when
we arrive in Bredasdorp. Most
shops are busy closing and the one
attraction in town that caught our
attention, the Shipwreck Museum,
isn’t open on weekends. We push on
to another place neither of us have
visited in years, L’Agulhas.
The R319 first leads you through
Struisbaai. Here the atmosphere
is livelier. Families are swimming
at the beach next to the harbour,
there are queues in front of ice
cream stands, and anglers try their
luck from the rockier parts of the
coastline along Marine Drive. The
fish and chips shop we buy lunch
from is chock-a-block.
After lunch we drive towards the
lighthouse at Cape Agulhas. At the
turn of the 16th century this place
was named Cabo das Agulhas by
the Portuguese, meaning “Cape
of Needles”. Perhaps the rocky
coastline here inspired the name,
but another theory suggests it stems
from the fact that compass needles
show no variation between true and
magnetic north here.
Either way, as the southernmost
point in Africa, Cape Agulhas is
still as popular today with tourists
from all over the world as it had
been with sailors in the past. Today,
Cape Agulhas no longer marks an
important point on an arduous sea
voyage but simply a good place for a
selfie for your social media feed.
I see a sign for the southernmost
café in Africa (a quirky gimmick)
and I can’t resist a joke I imagine
every dad makes in this town.
“Look!” I point out to Sam, “It’s the
southernmost curio shop in Africa!
And that must be the southernmost
restaurant!” I get a wry smile, so I
continue. “Surely, we’re driving the
southernmost motorhome in Africa,
on the southernmost road, passing
the southernmost lighthouse!”
A grunt instead of laughter tells
me I’m losing my audience, but I
push on. “Here we are now at the
southernmost parking lot and look,
there’s the southernmost queue
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

in Africa!” I say and point at the
line of selfie-takers at the plaque
that reads: “You are now at the
southernmost tip of the continent
of Africa.” When I look over at Sam,
I witness the southernmost eye roll
in Africa, so I decide to retire the
routine.
HYMNS FOR THE AGES
We too take pictures at the plaque
and of the lighthouse before
heading back inland. Our next
destination is Greyton, 150 km
north. The R319 leads us back to
Bredasdorp before the R316 takes
us through Napier and onwards to
Caledon. From here it's a beautiful
half-hour drive to Greyton.
The town is not unknown to us.
In fact, you probably live under a
rock if you haven’t heard of this
popular rural retreat, especially
favoured by city folk from Cape
Town. We arrive late in the
afternoon and the curio shops and
art galleries are closed, but the
restaurants are overflowing onto
the sidewalks with patrons. We
join in and soon I understand the
appeal of the place: It’s vibey yet
relaxed; it’s secluded yet intimate,
and even though the population is
small, Greyton feels familial. If only
property prices were in my range,
I might consider moving here in
the future.
The next morning, we head for
Genadendal, about 5 km outside
of Greyton.
Its name means “Valley of
Grace”, and the village traces
its origin back to 1738 when the
German missionary Georg Schmidt
established a mission station here
on behalf of the Moravian Church.
For seven years, Schmidt built up a
community here, largely made up
of Khoi people, and his following
grew. When the Cape Dutch
Reformed Church found out he was
baptising followers (he was not an
ordained minister and therefore
not qualified) Schmidt was forced
to return to Europe.
For fifty years Genadendal stood
abandoned until new missionaries
arrived and revived the mission.
The settlement grew once again,
eventually becoming one of the
largest settlements in the Cape.
In its heyday, Genadendal had its
own library, school, forge, watermill
and plenty of vegetable gardens.
It’s Sunday morning, and the
church service is in full swing
when we arrive. The parking lot
is clogged with vehicles, the most
I’ve seen outside of a church in
many years.
I do the math and realise this
building, dating back to 1796, has
been a place of worship for 226
years. “There is something sublime
about that,” I say to Sam as we
go for a walk around the church
square to look at some of the
old buildings.
The church service is still going
when we get back. A preacher's
voice loudly spills out of the
windows followed by familiar
hymns, a period of silent prayer,
and more hymns. The same sounds
for more than two centuries. I smile
at this thought as we head back
to Cape Town, because a very old
place was suddenly new to me. And
that’s exactly what a good road trip
should feel like.
>
[In Struisbaai] families are swimming at the beach next to
the harbour, there are queues in front of the ice cream shop and
anglers try their luck from the rockier parts of the coastline.
27
credits here
WINTER 2020 | AA reisiger

Road trip
TOP FIVE THINGS TO DO
1. Meet an eel
Visit the Palinggat Homestead in Stilbaai,
home of the tourism bureau and the
Blombos Museum of Archaeology. The
museum houses a fascinating display of
Stone Age artifacts found in the region,
while in the homestead’s garden there is a
pond containing the only tame eels in the
country. They are fed daily at 11 am sharp
(Monday to Saturday), so be sure to plan
your visit accordingly. For more information
visit stilbaaitourism.co.za.
2. Sample some fynbos gin
Inverroche is known for their fynbos and
Cape Floral gin infusions inspired by the
Overberg. Visit the distillery 8 km before
Stilbaai on the R305 and sample their
award-winning collection with a gin tasting
experience. Open Mondays to Saturdays,
10:00 to 16:00. For more information visit
inverroche.com
28
3. Stay a while
The Overberg is an often overlooked
region for travellers which is great if you
are looking for an escape from city life.
You won’t find shopping malls, coffee
chains or consistent sources of Wi-Fi here.
Perfect! Next time you plan a getaway,
consider the seaside towns of Stilbaai,
Jongensfontein, Witsand, Struisbaai, or
L’Agulhas for a beach vibe. Inland you’ll find
that Bredasdorp, Napier, and Greyton are
pure platteland.
4. Visit Africa’s southernmost tip
A visit to the southernmost tip of Africa in
the seaside town of L’Agulhas is worth an
outing. Not only so you can take a selfie on
the edge of the continent, but also to visit the
photogenic lighthouse, take a walk along the
boardwalk, explore rock pools at low tide
and grab some fish and chips in town.
5. See a historic village
Dating back to the mid-1700s, the village of
Genadendal is the oldest Moravian Mission
station in the country. The original church
still stands and houses the oldest pipe
organ in South Africa. The square around
the church, called Die Werf, has a museum,
old workshops, and even a watermill to take
you back in time.
credits here
>
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

The Eland
The Braamfontein Trees
The Battle for Ellis Park
M.K. Gandhi
Attorney at Law
statue

City art
Did you know that
Johannesburg is
jam-packed full of
beautiful public art?
Murals, sculptures,
and mosaics line
the bustling streets,
especially in the
inner city, bringing
colour and fun to the
urban centre.
I ART
JOBURG
WORDS & PHOTOS BY JO BUITENDACH
Public art is for everyone.
Unlike private art
collections and galleries,
it’s not kept behind a
wall and out of sight. It’s
erected in public spaces
and is often sponsored by
the government or corporates. It teaches
us about our history, both the good and
the bad, and the individuals who shaped
it. It beautifies the city and creates
employment for artists. And while it’s
not going to solve all our problems
(loadshedding included) it can bring us
joy and beauty.
Joburg’s inner city has hundreds of
public art pieces. Here are a few standout
pieces to get you started on your
urban art exploration.
The Eland, an imposing statue by
Clive van den Berg, was created to act
as a statement piece, welcoming you to
the city as you enter Braamfontein. This
cast-concrete artwork of a sacred eland
tackles our relationship with the land,
spirituality, and our past.
Cnr Bertha and Ameshoff Street,
Braamfontein
The Braamfontein Trees
is a series of uniquely shaped sculptures.
They were originally commissioned as
part of an upgrade of the Braamfontein
area in 2007. The laser-cut steel trees
were designed by Claire Regnard
and Newtown’s Imbali Visual
Literacy Project.
Juta Street, Braamfontein
>
31
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

The Newton Heads
Impala Stampede
The Shadow Boxer
32
History is one of three artworks that
stand as sentinels at the Constitutional
Court in Braamfontein. This part of
the trio stands right outside the court’s
impressive carved doors. It was created by
Dumili Feni, an acclaimed South African
artist who died in exile in America before
he could return home. This sculpture
was cast in bronze from a clay model of
Feni’s that had been found in New York
after his death. The artist explained that
the emotional work centres on how some
people give their bodies and souls to pull
others along.
Constitutional Court, 1 Hospital Street,
Braamfontein
While much of the public art
in Johannesburg is funded by
the government, Impala
Stampede by Herman Wald
is corporate sponsored. Originally
commissioned by the Oppenheimer family
in 1960 and placed in Oppenheimer Park,
it was moved to outside Anglo-American’s
former head-office in Main Street,
Marshalltown, after being vandalised in
1999. The statue features a breathtaking
herd of impala leaping gracefully over
a fountain.
44 Main Street, Marshalltown
The M.K Gandhi Attorney at
Law statue is a traditional bronze
piece depicting Mohandas Gandhi as a
younger man and as he would have looked
when he practiced law in Johannesburg.
The social and political activist spent
18 years in the City of Gold and had a
law office not far from where the statue
stands today. The artwork was created by
Tinka Christopher.
Gandhi Square, New Street,
Marshalltown
Newtown is famous for culture, music, and
history, so it’s only fitting that it’s home
to some awesome public art too. One
of these iconic works is the Brenda
Fassie Memorial, commissioned
by the Sunday Times newspaper and
conceptualised by sculptor Angus Taylor.
The much-loved singer is depicted
informally with a microphone and empty
stool beside her, waiting for passers-by to
join her for a song. Make sure you have
a close look at this artwork as her skin is
inscribed with statements she made about
or to the media.
Outside the Market Theatre, 56 Margaret
Mcingana Street, Newtown
A few metres away you will find the
Kippie Moeketsi Tribute, by
Guy du Toit and Egon Tania. It honours
the legendary saxophone performer. This
work also includes an empty seat, offering
a perfect opportunity for you to keep
Moeketsi company or take a photo or two.
Outside the Market Theatre, 56 Margaret
Mcingana Street, Newtown
The Newtown Heads are
a defining feature of the precinct. The
hundreds of intricately carved railway
Images: Getty Images/Gallo Images and supplied.
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

City art
Brenda Fassie
Memorial
History
The Paper Pigeons
Walter and
Albertina Sisulu
statue
sleepers positioned around the area
depict people from the African continent.
Originally created in 2001 by artist Americo
Guambe and his team, the artworks were
restored and relaunched in 2018.
Mary Fitzgerald Square and surrounding
streets, Newtown
A small area named Ferreirasdorp, on the
western edge of the city, was an important
place for Nelson Mandela and Oliver
Tambo. From 1952 to 1960, they ran their
law office from a building here called
Chancellor House. Legally zoned as “non-
European” during Apartheid, the area
played host to many activists and important
events during the struggle against the
oppressive Apartheid regime. The
Shadow Boxer was created by
artist Marco Cianfanelli, and it is based
on a photograph – taken by Bob Gosani –
that depicts a young Mandela boxing on a
nearby rooftop.
Cnr Fox and Gerard Sekoto Street,
Ferreirasdorp
The Walter and Albertina
Sisulu statue, by artist Marina
Walsh, celebrates the love story of this
powerhouse political couple. Sitting
together peacefully, but not face-to-face,
it symbolises their strong relationship
despite separation during the struggle for
democracy. The statue is located across the
road from Walter’s real estate business and
alongside a street named after Albertina.
Ntemi Piliso Street, between
Commissioner Street and Albertina
Sisulu Road, Ferreirasdorp
Only in Joburg do pigeons get their
own artwork. We love it, even
if it isn’t the cleanest spot
around. The Paper
Pigeons, by
Gerhard and Maja
Marx, consists of three
origami style pigeon
statues, fashioned
out of steel sheets and
featuring perching rods
Safe & sound
When enjoying the art,
make sure you are aware
of your surroundings and
keep safe, especially if
you are on foot or getting
out of the car. When in
doubt, ask a local who
knows the city well.
for the city birds. Pigeons have long been
fed by the community in this spot.
Intersection of Albertina Sisulu Road and
Miriam Makeba Street, Ferreirasdorp
The Battle for Ellis Park is a
glistening jewel of a mosaic found in the
east of Johannesburg. Catch it at the right
time of the day, as the sun’s rays hit it, and
it will knock your socks off. Located on the
side of a semi-detached home and created
by the Spaza Gallery, it commemorates
the 1922 Miners’ Strike. During this event,
25 000 white workers went on strike to
oppose the removal of the colour bar, a
law which minimised the number
of black workers in the mines
and protected white jobs.
This led to violent fighting
throughout Johannesburg
as well as the loss of
many lives.
Cnr Erin Street and
Bertrams Road,
Bertrams
33
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

BY GERDA ENGELBRECHT
Hadrian's Wall
34
HIKE THE
BRITISH ISLES
Spain and France’s pilgrimage routes are world famous, but the UK has several hikes that
are just as rich in tradition, historical landmarks, and natural splendour. This is part two of
AA Traveller’s guide to epic hiking routes around the world. The third and last instalment
(to appear in our Summer 2023 issue) will focuses famous routes in the USA and Canada.
1
The Pilgrims’ Way
WHERE: Southwark Cathedral
(London) to Canterbury
Cathedral (Kent)
DISTANCE: 152 km, about 8
days
This pilgrims’ route links Winchester
and London with Kent, where the
pilgrimage ends at the shrine of St
Thomas Becket. Throughout the
ages, several British kings have
completed this route. It’s also forms
the backdrop for the stories featured
in Chaucer’s The Canterbury Tales.
2
Hadrian's Wall
WHERE: Wallsend to
Bowness-on-Solway, England
DISTANCE: 135 km, 6 days
You can tackle this route, which runs
along an ancient Roman wall, from
east to west or vice versa. The Roman
emperor Hadrian built the wall in 122 to
discourage attacks from troublesome
tribes to the north and to control the
movement of people. After the Romans
left England, large parts of the wall
remained intact for centuries.
In 1834, John Clayton (1782-1890),
Gilsland
Bowness-on-Solway
Chollerford
Heddon on the Wall
Newcastle upon Tyne
the town clerk of Newcastle-upon-Tyne,
started buying parts of the wall with the aim to
preserve it. The hiking route was established
in 2003. Connoisseurs believe you should hike
from the east to the west because that’s the
direction in which the wall was built, but if you
walk from the west to the east, the wind will
be at your back and the sun will be better for
taking photos. There are several historical
landmarks along the way and the towns have
good infrastructure in place to eat and sleep. >
Wallsen
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

John o’Groats
8
Hiking
Inverness
Scotland
Aberdeen
6
Pitlochry
North Sea
Atlantic
Ocean
Drymen
Glasgow
Dundee
Edinburgh
Kirk Yetholm
100 km
Northern
Ireland
Belfast
Bowness-on-Solway
2
Newcastle-upon-Tyne
St. Bees Head
7
Robin Hood’s Bay
IRELAND
DUBLIN
Irish Sea
Manchester
Liverpool
Edale
Leeds
Sheffield
Queensferry
Celtic Sea
Wales
4
Cardiff
Minehead
Chepstow
Bristol
5
Birmingham
UNITED
KINGDOM
England
LONDON
Cambridge
1
Canterbury
35
Southampton
Brighton
Land’s End
Plymouth
3
Poole
English Channel
FRANCE

Hiking
36
3
Southwest Coast Path
WHERE: Minehead to Poole,
England
DISTANCE: 1 014 km, 50+ days
If you like coastal hikes, you’ll love the
Southwest Coast Path, a route that
meanders along the coast of south-west
England. It’s one of the country’s bestknown
routes and several guidebooks
will describe the trail and identify
accommodation establishments and
restaurants along the way. Highlights
include, amongst others, the towns of
Lyme Regis and Abbotsbury, plus the 144
million-year-old fossils near Lulworth
Cove. It’s described as a hike with a
surprise around every corner.
4
Wales Coast Path
WHERE: Queensferry to Chepstow,
Wales
DISTANCE: 1 408 km, 50 days
Although this route was only officially
opened on 5 May 2021, it’s made up
of several coastal paths which were
constructed between 2007 and 2014 and
then linked together. You basically hike
the whole Welsh coast. In The 50 Greatest
Walks of the World, Barry Stone writes:
“It’s a rare thing for a walker to say they’ve
traced the outline of a nation, the term
some give to a successful completion of
the Wales Coast Path which follows the
entirety of the Welsh coast as best it can
from the north to the south.”
5
Pennine Way
Where: Edale to Kirk Yetholm
Distance: 431 km, 20+ days
The Pennine Hills are often referred to
as “the spine of England”, and you’ll have
to brace yourself for an uphill battle if
you want to complete this route. Tom
Stephenson, a journalist and avid hiker,
suggested the route in 1935 in the Daily
Herald after he was inspired by hikes in
the US, especially the Appalachian Trail.
Rob Roy Way
He took his proposal all the way to the
British Parliament. In 1964, before the
official launch of the last section of the
route, the British Army was asked to
assess it first. Soldiers were divided into
groups of five, and each group hiked a
section of about 25 km to evaluate if it’s
achievable and if it’s properly marked.
Although it’s not the longest route in
England, it’s one of the most famous and
most difficult hikes in the country. In 1990,
about 12 000 hikers completed it, and an
additional 10 000 hiked sections of it.
6
Rob Roy Way
Where: Drymen tot Pitlochry,
Scotland
Distances: 127 km, 7 days
Rob Roy MacGregor is a Scottish folk hero
and rebel who led his clan in an armed
struggle against the English. This route
was established in 2002 and takes you
through the Scottish Highlands and lake
district where the story of Rob Roy played
itself out.
7
Coast to Coast
WHERE: St Bees Head to Robin
Hood’s Bay
DISTANCE: 309 km, 14+ days
Coast to Coast follows the same route
hiked by Alfred Wainwright, a fell walker
who helped popularised hiking routes in
England’s Lake District. Between 1952
and 1966, Wainwright wrote a series of
seven guidebooks highlighting routes in
the area, and it’s seen as the definitive
guides to hiking in the Lake District to
this day. The route takes you through
three national parks – The Lake District
National Park, the Yorkshire Dales
National Park, and the North York Moors
Park. The tradition, which was proposed
by Wainwright, is that hikers soak their
swollen feet in the Irish Sea at St Bees
and again in the North Sea at Robin
Hood’s Bay.
8
End to End
WHERE: Land’s End to John o
Groats
DISTANCE: 1 956 km, 61+ days
Many consider this to be the biggest
hiking challenge in the United Kingdom.
The official End to End hiking route veers
away from tarred roads and takes you on
backroads, dirt roads and two-lane roads
that go through the country’s hill districts,
the coastal areas of Devon and Cornwall
and the Peak District. Cicerone has a
guidebook on this route that divides it into
61 stages, but be warned: if you follow this
guide, you’ll have to cover about 30 km per
day on challenging terrain.
Sources: caminoways.com; caminoadventures.com; Camino Sanabrés by John Brierley; The 50 Greatest
Walks of the World by Barry Stone; Wikipedia. Maps by Francois Haasbroek
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

THE IRISH
WAY
Ireland is home to two epic
hikes: the Dingle Way and the
Wicklow Way. Expect unbelievably
beautiful landscapes and historic
monuments along the way.
9
Dingle Way
WHERE: Start and end in Tralee,
Ireland
DISTANCE: 162 km, 9 days
This route in the south-west of Ireland
is one of the country’s most popular and
crosses several diverse terrains in the
Dingle peninsula. You’ll walk along the
foothills of Slieve Mish, on the shoulder of
Mount Brandon, and across the beach at
Slea Head. Look out for the 4 000-year-old
cairns and corbelled houses. It’s believed
that about 2 000 monuments are dotted
along this route alone.
Ballycurrane
Dunquin
Cloghane
Dingle
Anascaul
Castlegregory
Camp
Atlantic Ocean
50 km
Tralee
9
Tralee
Killarney
C astlebar
Galway
Limerick
Cork
Athlone
IRELAND
Letterkenny
Kilkenny
Londonderry
Northern
Ireland
10
Clonegal
Wexford
Dundalk
DUBLIN
Belfast
St George’s
Channel
10
012,525 50 Kilometers
Wicklow Way
WHERE: Dublin to Clonegal
DISTANCE: 127 km, about 10
days
This route, which starts in the
Rathfarnham suburb of Dublin, goes
through some of the most
spectacular mountain landscapes in
Ireland. You’ll wander through woods,
parks, cross mountains, and walk
along lakes in what is often called the
“Garden of Ireland”. It’s one of the
country’s most popular hiking routes,
and it was established in the 1980s to
encourage the Irish to spend more
time in nature.
FOR MORE INFORMATION, READ:
■ Britain’s Pilgrim
Places: The
First Complete
Guide to Every
Spiritual
Treasure by
Nick Mayhew-
Smith and Guy
Hayward
■ Pilgrim
Pathways: 1-2
Day Walks
on Britain’s
Ancient Sacred
Ways by Andy
Bull
Celtic Sea
■ The 50 Greatest
Walks of the
World by Barry
Stone. This
book lists the
best hiking
routes in the
world, including
30 hikes in the
British Isles.
■ Walking With
Plato – A
Philosophical
Hike Through
the British Isles
by Gary Hayden
recounts Gary’s
experiences on
the End to End
hike.
37
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

Philippolis will celebrate its 200th year of existence in 2023.
Over the years, this Free State town has seen groups of
people come and go, including notable figures from the past.
Today it’s home to an artistic group seeking peace and quiet.
WORDS & PHOTOS BY MIA LOUW
38
Rich in
history
and with a bright future
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

Weekend getaway
Sir Laurens
van der Post
Entering
Philippolis from
the direction of
Trompsburg
For me, the highlight of Philippolis is
the towering Dutch Reformed Church
(DRC) building that looms large when
you approach the town from the north.
Philippolis lies in the northern stretch of
the Karoo – a gateway for Gautengers and a
slightly softer landscape than the rest of the
semi-desert region stretching south.
The town is nestled in a basin, and if you come from
the direction of Trompsburg, the church is one of the
first buildings that sticks out amongst Voortrekker Street’s
ginormous trees. The cornerstone was laid by Reverend
Colin Fraser in 1869, but church services at this location
date back to 1826, when the London Missionary Society
built the first missionary church here.
Philippolis is named after Dr John Philip. He was the
superintendent of the missionary society and preached in
the local community. From 1826 to 1862, it was the capital
city of the Griquas, under the leadership of Adam Kok,
before they moved to Kokstad in KwaZulu-Natal.
“Through the centuries, the San; then the Griquas;
and later the Voortrekkers, who crossed the Orange River
from the Cape Colony through the Transgariep, brought
their cattle to the town’s two fountains,” says Jens Friis, a
former journalist and the author of the book Philippolis -
Die oudste nedersetting in die Vrystaat.
We’re standing on the hill behind his family’s
guesthouse on Koksfontein Street, on the north-western
outskirts of town. To the one side lies Genadeberg,
which in English means mercy mountain. “During
droughts, animals would travel up the hill in
search of pasture. It was a small mercy if
there was any food higher up,” he explains.
You can still find signs from the South
African War (1899-1902) on the hill:
bullet casings, stone cairns, and food
larders built by the British, who used the
hill as an elevated point of attack.
From here you have a clear view of the
Groenhuis Guesthouse. It’s made up of
several renovated buildings and stables – the
main house dates to 1889 – and in total there is
enough space to sleep 30 people.
Jens grew up in Philippolis. Both his parents were
teachers here, and his father taught at M.T. Steyn High
School (later High School Philippolis), where he was also
the headmaster for 12 years.
Thanks to the high school’s first general reunion in 16
years, Jens was encouraged to write a coffee table book
about his hometown – and in just three months!
Fast forward two years and a “weekend getaway”
turned into a permanent stay when Jens and his better
half came from Sandton to visit Jens sr. (80). Luckily,
they were in the countryside when Covid-19 lockdown
was implemented. The dream was to move here and
take over the guesthouse one day, but lockdown >
39
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

Weekend getaway
offered time and inspiration to make the move
immediately. “It’s becoming more and more popular –
workations or semigration – people who come here to
work remotely. A good internet connection makes this
possible. There was a woman today who booked a stay
for a whole month.”
Jens talks about the growing property market – “a
good sign in a small town” – but don’t despair if you
can’t pack up your life and settle in the countryside
yet. Philippolis is located both in the middle of
nowhere and somewhere in the middle of South
Africa, which makes it a popular overnight stop for
people travelling between the north and coastal areas.
The N1 used to meander through Philippolis but
was rerouted in the 1970s. This dealt a financial
blow to several small towns, but Jens likes to
focus on the positive. With no large trucks
speeding through, the town has been
able to keep some of its original charm.
The next time you’re on your way
to Cape Town or the Kruger, turn off
the N1 at Trompsburg or Colesberg
and follow the R717 to Philippolis to
experience this tranquil town.
40
WHY PHILIPPOLIS?
A handful of inhabitants like Jens and his partner live
in Philippolis because lockdown offered them the
opportunity to do so, but the pandemic also ushered
in a group of young people who moved out of cities
and now work remotely from here: creative directors,
marketers, and directors and producers in the TV and
music industry.
Juliette Whelpton now lives here because she
followed the tracks of a horse, more specifically, a
white Arabian called Maharajah. During the South
African War, the stallion assisted the British general
and politician John Edward Bernard Seely (Jack Seely)
in the area.
Maharajah is the fourth horse from the South
African War that Juliette has written a book about.
“Die Helde met Hoewe book series is aimed at children
between the ages of nine and 14, but due to the
historic facts, older readers enjoy them as well,”
she says.
Juliette’s research has taken her to various
battlegrounds in our country, from KwaZulu-Natal
to Mpumalanga and the Free State, where, with
the help of horses, she now offers Healing Hooves
wellness workshops.
Juliette also owns the Karoo Artist’s Café and Starry
Night Karoo Cottages in Tobie Muller Street, easily the
prettiest street in town. The writer Karel Schoeman
hit the nail on the head when he once referred to
Philippolis as “the Stellenbosch of the Free State”,
especially with its “heritage green roofs and white
chalk historic building”.
CLOCKWISE
FROM THE
TOP: The Dutch
Reformed
Church in
Voortrekker
Street.
Nicolene
Gibbons with
her linocut art.
Kets and Adele
Underhay.
Brinley
and Erina
Pritchard’s
racing pigeons.
In this street, you’ll find the Nagmaal Huis, with its
typical Karoo-style flat roof, and the Hartjiehortjiehuis
(the name refers to its heart-shaped wooden shutters)
and both are national historical monuments.
The Karoo Artist’s Café is in a large rectangular
building, apparently built as a classroom in the 1880s,
but Juliette has photos that indicate that the café
could have been a weaving room once. In fact, Emily
Hobhouse started the country’s first spin and weave
school here in 1905.
Today it’s the type of space than can easily host
various types of events, from a book reading to a blues
concert or a movie night. Juliette is fond of screening
movies, regularly gets musicians to perform, and locals
come here to sell their goods at the weekly market,
called the Stoepkletsmark.
Kets and Adele Underhay sell their tomato jam here
on Thursdays at 16:00. They live in Rowelsfontein, a
suburb whose huge lawns were irrigated with water
from the fountains, but these irrigation ditches aren’t
used anymore. Their windmill supplies them with
water for the fresh fruit, vegetables, and nuts they
cultivate in greenhouse tunnels. Adele also cultivates
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

orchids in a smaller, heated greenhouse.
The water is frozen solid in the birdbath next to
the tunnel. “This is my thermometer. This is how cold
it was last night,” says Kets. Adele adds: “The coldest
we’ve ever experienced was -12°C, but 2°C is normal
for winter.” Adele and Kets are from Johannesburg and
have been living here permanently for four years. The
plan was to buy their property, renovate it, and sell it
for a profit, but here they are, 17 years later, living in
their “retirement home”.
Not that they’re really retired. Kets does woodwork,
among other things, and crafts kitchen cabinets
and cheese bords, while Adele keeps the Taxpayers
Association’s books and helps out at The Shop antique
store. In Philippolis people can turn their hands to
anything.
WATERKLOOF? NO, IT’S BEERKLOOF!
On the road to Colesberg, 7 km outside of town, Karoo
Ale Craft Beer greets you from the left side of the
road. The farmstall brewery is in Waterkloof, a ghost
town that’s slowly but surely coming back to life. Jens
recounts that initially Philippolis and Waterkloof were
caught up in a vicious dispute over who should be the
main town because Waterkloof also has fountains.
It's this wonderful fountain water that Pierre and
Corrie Jacobs use for their beer. They also add local
flora, like wild rosemary and Karoo bush, to their ales.
Pierre gives me a sheep bush leaf to smell. It’s a
little sour, but if you rub it between your fingers, the
herbal scent is released. Pierre also makes gin with
a handful of herbs that grows in the area: African
wormwood, pepper tree, Karoo bush, rosemary, and
juniper berries.
“Look here: there is a traction engine on the bottle
because the colour of the gin looks like diesel,” he
jokes. “I have a friend in town who is a pharmacist,
and he has a degree in alternative medicine. When I
told him what’s in the gin, he said I shouldn’t change a
“The coldest we've ever experienced was
-12°C, but -2° is normal for winter.”
The interior
and exterior of
Die Groenhuis
Guesthouse.
Philippolis
Pitstop
Restaurant’s
garden.
thing. It’s like medicine!”
Pierre pours me a Karoo bush beer and talks
about how the building was used as a shop during his
childhood. “When the N1 was still here, you couldn’t
even turn into the road. Thousands of cars sped past.”
It’s much quieter now, obviously, but every now
and then a car, horse rider, or jogger comes this way.
“Look, there’s Pikkie, running past here again,” says
Pierre as he takes a big gulp of his “hops soup” as he
calls it, because this beer has “body”.
The brewery isn’t the only place that shows signs
of life – recently, people have bought plots and built
houses in Waterkloof, a hopeful sign that the town
is on the road to recovery. For the last four years,
Nicolene Gibbons has been living here in a beautiful,
minimalist home built in the flat-roofed style of the
Karoo area.
She lived in England for 30 years, but simply yearned
too much after sunshine. “I was a classical concert
pianist in Britain for years. I wanted to do something
else and take a break from music. I then did fine art
printmaking at Cambridge for a couple of years,”
she explains.
And that’s her focus today: linocut art and organic
gardening, or permaculture. Some of her art is on
sale in the Karoo Artist’s Café. “I’ve also gone back to
music. I play the organ in the DRC, and my piano also
stands in the church.”
For 2023, Nicolene wants to organise classical music
concerts for all four seasons of the year. “The church is
so beautifully built and has lovely acoustics. We want to
offer packages with the guesthouses and restaurants.”
Nicolene wants to turn the traditional style of
classical concerts on its head, especially because
people often feel like it’s a little bit stuffy. >
41
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

42
“I’m not going to come out in a grand dress, bow, and
play. The audience should sit right in front of me, and
I’m going to talk because every piece and composer
has a story. And the people in Philippolis love telling
stories.”
‘UBER’ THROUGH THE DUSTY ROADS
I’m waiting at the Karoo Artist’s Café for my “Uber” –
Tanya Kriel and a horse named Charmaine. At R100 per
person, they’ll take you on a horse-and-buggy tour of
the town. My mom, two dogs and I get on and venture
down Tobie Muller Street.
The street is named after the second reverend of the
DRC. He carried out the first Afrikaans marriage
ceremony in South Africa in Philippolis and is one of
the first to translate the Bible from Dutch to Afrikaans.
We drive past the old Anglican church. The
cornerstone was laid on 4 June 1864 but Brinley and
Erina Pritchard live here today. “The church attendance
dropped and emptied out as the English population
declined. I believe the last day the bell rang was in 1948.
It’s been our home for the last 27 years,” explains Erina,
or Ma Pritchard, as she’s known.
Charmaine clip-clops past the Emily Hobhouse
Memorial Garden in Voortrekker Street, and she turns
off into Colin Fraser Street, where the famous South
African philosopher and writer Sir Laurens van der Post
spent his childhood.
Prof. Doreen Atkinson and Mark Ingle now use
Huis van der Post as their office. They’re researchers
and write about politics, developmental studies,
tourism, and history. In 1994, they decided at the last
minute to go somewhere quiet, namely Philippolis, to
celebrate Christmas.
“One morning, Doreen was walking through town
when she saw a ‘FOR SALE’ sign in the window. She
came back to the hotel and said: ‘I’ve got just the house
for you!’” says Mark. While they were visiting the house,
Mark noticed an old family photo in the hallway. “Is this
your family?” he asked the owner, “No, it’s the van der
Posts.” The two history buffs decided there and then to
buy the house in which Sir Laurens was born in 1906.
The Victorian-style house was built in 1872 and the
gable was erected in 1908.
Next to the church in Voortrekker Street you’ll find
the Laurens van der Post Memorial Garden, which
includes a labyrinth, the Ouma Anna Restaurant, and
the Artist Retreat Guesthouse and a museum room with
Laurens’ possessions. The memorial garden, established
in 2002, was built keeping in mind the philosopher’s
belief that life should be a journey.
Sir Laurens was a philosopher, so you would do well to
follow his advice and focus on more than just your
destination. With Ouma Anna’s hearty Karoo food and
a good night’s rest in the Artist Retreat, even the
weariest of travellers will feel ready for the long road
ahead.
Baberton
Mountain Lodge
ABOVE AND RIGHT:
Juliette Whelpton at
her Karoo Artist’s
Café. FAR RIGHT:
Philippolis Pitstop
Restaurant. BELOW:
Tanya Kriel’s horseand-buggy
cart at
the Dutch Reformed
Church.
AA Traveller | SPRING 2021 2022

Weekend getaway
GOOD
TO
KNOW
With Ouma Anna's
hearty Karoo food
and a good night's
rest in the Artist
Retreat, even the
weariest of travellers
will feel up to the
long road ahead.
HOW TO GET THERE:
The town lies 175 km southwest
of Bloemfontein and about
halfway between Trompsburg en
Colesberg on the R717.
WHERE TO STAY:
The brakdak houses and stables of
Die Groenhuis Guesthouse have
been meticulously restored to
make them comfortable while still
maintaining an authentic feel. The
horses’ feeding trough can still be
seen in Die Stal accommodation,
and historic photos of Philippolis
adorn the walls. Jens also has a
fenced cottage somewhat removed
from the others – ideal for
travellers with dogs. 084 581 0149;
diegroenhuis.co.za
The Dusty Vine is in Tobie
Muller Street. The Dusty Vine
Nagmaalhuis is a national
monument that can sleep four
people. The Dusty Vine Hoekhuis
is much bigger, with enough space
for six. Delight in spaces with
stylish décor, Karoo character
and art by famous artists like
Walter Battiss, Judith Mason, and
Anton Kannemeyer. 082 974 2692;
thedustyvine.co.za
WHERE TO EAT:
The Philippolis Hotel serves
some of the tastiest pizza I’ve ever
had. Do try the vegetarian option.
064 520 7381
You’re going to have a hard time
deciding what to order at Ouma
Anna Restaurant @ van der
Post. Everything, from their
skaapstertjies to the lamb curry
or trout with mashed potatoes, is
exquisite. 081 838 1186; facebook.
com/ouma.anna.philippolis
Philippolis Pitstop Restaurant is
at the end of Tobie Muller Street.
Enjoy a light lunch in the rose
garden that overlooks the suburbs.
If you’re lucky, the owner’s
dachshund, Lucy, and three cats,
Tiger, Peanut and Caramel, will
keep you company. Order the
croissant filled with chicken, mayo,
and avocado.
082 955 3478; facebook.com/
Philippolis-Pitstop-Restaurant
WHERE TO SHOP:
At Oom Japie se Trommel the
artist Lina Kapp sells secondhand
books for the Taxpayers’
Association, as well as her
unique fabric art, which includes
cushions, rag dolls, and quilts.
078 573 3077
Hunt for antiques, art, and
books at The Shop Antiques in
Voortrekker Street. The store is
open on Fridays and Saturdays
from 09:30-12:30, but you can
also phone them and ask that they
unlock it for you. It’s open more
often during the school holidays.
082 940 3608 / 082 929 5525
Call ahead to view the art
exhibition at Jobhuis in Berg
Street. On display is Rina Coetzee’s
series of oil paintings on wood
impressions inspired by the Bible
book of Job. With laments playing
in the background, it’s a good
space for meditating. 083 451 6974
THINGS TO DO:
Tiger Canyon is the tiger
sanctuary of the famous moviemaker
and environmentalist
John Varty. It’s located 25 km
outside of Philippolis, and you can
overnight in the lodge and go on a
guided tour of the reserve, which
was created to rehabilitate these
endangered big cats here in Africa.
071 607 9279; tigercanyon.com
FOR MORE INFORMATION:
Contact Juliette Whelpton to book
accommodation at Starry Nights
Karoo Cottages, join a Healing
Hooves wellness workshop, or
for events or meals at the Karoo
Artist’s Café. Vegetarians and
vegans will find favour with the
menu. 072 9546 109
Contact Tanya Kriel for an hourlong
tour through the town on a
horse-and-buggy cart. It costs
R100 pp.
43
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

RIGHT: The
zebra agate snail
(Cochlitoma
zebra) is a
species of giant
snail. Its shell
alone can be up
to 14 cm long.
It is most often
found along the
coast from Cape
Agulhas to the
East London
area.
FAR RIGHT:
Natalina c.
eumacta is
part of a family
of sizable
carnivorous
snails. BELOW
RIGHT: Dr Mary
Cole on a recent
field trip.
44
In searchBY ENGELA DUVENAGE
OF SNAILS
Most people only know of the garden variety of snails, and have no idea
just how many there are in the world. But then there are people like Dr
Mary Cole. Over the last two decades, she has been involved in finding,
describing, and naming at least 58 newly discovered snail species in
South Africa. She even named one after her husband.
This is what
the 4 mm shell
of a Gulella
latimerae looks
like under the
microscope.
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

Science
At around 4 mm in length,
Gulella latimerae is such a
minute land snail that one
can only fully appreciate the
twists, turns, and grooves
of its translucent cylindrical shell under a
good microscope.
There’s a wonderful bit of science history
tied to this tiny South African snail. It is
named after Marjorie Courtenay-Latimer,
who rose to fame after she spotted the first
specimen of a live coelacanth fish among
the catch of East London fisherfolk in 1938.
Until then, the fish was thought to have
been extinct for some 80 million years.
The newly discovered coelacanth species
was subsequently named in Courtenay-
Latimer’s honour – Latimeria chalumnae.
That very first fish is still proudly on
display at the East London Museum, where
Courtenay-Latimer served for four decades
as its first director, until 1973.
The museum, which celebrated its
centennial last year, has since 1988 been
the workplace of Dr Mary Cole, who helped
to describe Marjorie’s snail in 2004.
She is a professional malacologist –
the formal title given to someone who
studies molluscs such as snails, clams,
cephalopods, and other creatures
with shells
During her first decade working at the
institution, Mary remembers often seeing
Courtenay-Latimer (who lived into her
nineties and passed away in 2004) when
she’d visit the museum for functions or to
Dr Mary Cole
has been
working as a
malacologist
since 1988.
RIGHT: A
Natalina c.
eumacta snail
Mollusc mission
The collection of molluscs in South Africa
has been ongoing since before 1900 and
counts among the oldest natural science
collections in the country.
You’ll find one of the largest
collections in the southern hemisphere
at the KwaZulu-Natal Museum in
Pietermaritzburg, and it includes a wide
selection of marine molluscs of southern
Africa and the southwestern Indian Ocean
to terrestrial molluscs of South Africa.
The Iziko South African Museum in Cape
Town houses the most comprehensive
collections of cephalopoda (octopus,
squid, and relatives) and polyplacophora
(chitons) in southern Africa. The East
London Museum collection has about
130 000 examples of marine, land, and
freshwater species. The biggest land
snail on display is the zebra snail, which
can be 14 cm in length.
Source: South African Journal of Science.
Sheldonia
fingolandensis
live in aloes. The
species is only
found around the
catchment areas
of the Mbhashe
and Kei Rivers and
southward to the
Buffalo River valley
near East London.
It was described
in 2017 by Dr Dai
Herbert.
be filmed about the coelacanth.
“We probably have the second largest
land snail collection in South Africa. Some
of our specimens were collected by
Courtenay-Latimer herself during her time
here,” Mary notes.
Snails, snails, and more snails
In the past two decades, Mary has been
involved in the discovery, description, and
naming of at least 58 land snail species new
to South African science – and the list just
keeps on growing.
“I am busy with another eight at the
moment and have several more lined
up after that,” says this member of the
International Union for Conservation of
Nature and Natural Resources (IUCN)
Mollusc Specialist Group, a grouping of
international experts who considers the
conservation of molluscs worldwide.
She initially worked on marine species,
and only started finding her feet around
land snails after receiving her MSc in
Zoology (cum laude) from the then
University of Port Elizabeth in 1998. Her
dissertation was on the animal life found
in the sand flats of East London’s Nahoon
River mouth and adjacent beach.
She started in the Eastern Cape on much
needed survey work of South African land
snails in 2000. Her work on the topic, in
conjunction with Welshman Dr Dai Herbert
of the KwaZulu-Natal Museum (KZNM), who
is now retired, later extended to other parts
of the country. It was a task long overdue
because the last major surveys were
done in the 1960s. In recent years, she has
worked the KZNM’s Dr Igor Muratov.
Although Mary tends to focus on Eastern
Cape snails, she has done surveys from
the Soutpansberg in Limpopo to the Little
Karoo. >
45

Science
In 2017, some of this work led to her
doctorate from Rhodes University about
a genus of South African snails called
Chondrocyclus. These live in forests and
thicket. She described twelve new species
that no one had noticed before in the
process. There’s good reason for that: the
biggest Chondrocyclus species is the size
of a Panado, but most are smaller. And their
dark brown shells are often caked with soil,
making them doubly difficult to spot.
The equally tiny Gulellas are slightly
easier to find, because their white shells
tend to stand out against dark soil. Over the
years, Mary has described 16 such species
– the most recent being eight in a paper
published earlier this year with Dai.
Among those she named is
Chondrocyclus kevincolei. It was named as
such in a 2019 paper in the scientific journal
European Journal of Taxonomy, and it’s
Mary’s way of thanking her husband, Kevin,
for his indispensable assistance on fieldtrips.
Mary recently completed an index of all
558 species and 12 subspecies of land snail
found in South Africa. Her efforts were part
of the South African National Biodiversity
Institute’s (SANBI) collation of a thorough
checklist of the country’s animals, including
vertebrates and invertebrates.
Members of the Sheldonia
genus of land snails are
commonly called tailwagger
snails.
How to find a snail
Mary fully realises that there are generally
three camps when it comes to snails: you
either love them, you hate them, or you
know almost nothing about them. Mary, of
course, falls into the first camp.
She is therefore quick to point out that
among the world’s 30 000 land snail
species, only about a hundred are of the
common garden variety that have become
agricultural pests.
“Very few have any sort of interaction
with people. Most are very small and live
their whole lives in forests or concealed
among leaf litter, without us even knowing
they’re there.”
To go snail hunting, you need a careful
eye, a torch, even some magnifying lenses,
a fair share of luck, and a willingness to
get muddy hands and knees. Forests,
especially those along South Africa’s
eastern coastline, tend to be the obvious
spots to look for land snails. Some hide
among decomposing leaves or under logs
or rocks, while others are easier to find as
they scrape algae off tree trunks.
“Remember to look up when you are in a
forest. Some species live in trees. You may
see their silhouettes as they sit on leaves.”
“Snails are generally only active after rain,
in damp conditions,” she notes.
“Most local species are found in the
eastern half of the country, the wetter areas.
For snails it’s a big challenge to live on
land, so it’s actually amazing that so many
species have adapted to do so.”
It might therefore come as a surprise that
some species live in the aloes in the Karoo
or that a whole family of land snails, the
Dorcasiidae, is endemic to the dry western
parts of southern Africa.
“The Dorcasiidae contain 13 species in
South Africa, and are found in the Western
Cape, Northern Cape and Eastern Cape and
extend into Namibia and Botswana.” Among
them are some of the earliest South African
land snails ever described, including
Trigonephrus rosaceus, which was already
identified in 1774 by Danish naturalist Otto
Friedrich Müller, and Trigonephrus
namaquensis from Namaqualand, named
as such in 1891.
Images: Mary Cole, Kevin Cole and Dai Herbert
46
Marjorie’s snail
The first example of Gulella latimerae was collected in 2000,
in the Kumqolo Forest near Xhora. According to a paper Mary
and Dai wrote in African Invertebrates in 2004 about it and three
of their other snail discoveries, it is only known to occur in four
forest patches along the Eastern Cape Wild Coast, between
Mazeppa Bay and Ntafufu.
“Many of the species we have discovered are only found in very
small areas. It reflects the very patchy nature of forests, and how
species have evolved over millennia in isolation because they
cannot easily disperse to new areas,” explains Mary.
“From a conservation point of view, it is therefore always
important to conserve our indigenous forests and the habitats
of our indigenous species, because most are only found in
small areas.”
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

Local entrepreneur
By Kim Arendse
A CUT
ABOVE
THE
REST
The owner of Native
Décor, one of SA’s
most popular
furniture and
homeware brands,
shares his road to
success.
VUSANI RAVELE
FOUNDER & CEO,
NATIVE DÉCOR
47
It began as a joke: the cordless drill he
received for Valentine’s Day in 2015
had him in stitches. It was a tonguein-cheek
nod to his lack of interest in
décor and DIY.
Yet, after a good chuckle, he decided
to play around with the tool, getting
more serious with each YouTube
tutorial. It’s a good thing he did – Vusani
Ravele’s Native Décor now offers over 250
furniture and home décor products and
is stocked by the likes of Woolworths,
Yuppiechef, Superbalist, and Takealot.
Not one to dilly-dally, Vusani moved
quickly from experimentation to
entrepreneurship. He launched Native
Décor a year after getting the fateful gift,
on Valentine’s Day, 2016.
PASSION SPARKED
He recalls the thrill of creating wooden and
metal décor items using just the drill and
some materials in his Johannesburg flat,
back when it was just a hobby.
“I was fascinated with this thing! My
place of work at a stationery supplier was
a 10-minute drive from home, and at lunch
time, I’d quickly drive home to work on my
projects, and then continue as soon as I
came home for the day,” Vusani tells us.
He began a collection of tools including
a CNC (computer numerical control)
>
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

machine which was stationed in his
living room.
A chest of drawers and a planter
were the first items he made.
Proud of his accomplishments, he
shared cellphone photographs of
the items on social media and was
pleasantly surprised when friends
and family expressed interest in
buying them.
“My first sale came from a high
school friend – a floor lamp. I then
had a website developed so I could
transact with ease. Luckily, it was the
first of many sales.”
Native Décor products are
minimalist and functional and
made using sustainable timber. The
designs are inspired by Vusani’s
love of South Africa’s culture,
landscapes, and wildlife.
launch a tuckshop at his boarding
school. “I would sell as much as
I could all day and even through
the night. When other tuckshops,
including the school’s tuckshop,
threatened my business, I would
allow students to buy on credit as
well as expand my range of snacks. I
eventually put them out of business.
My mom was a nurse but also a
solutionist who made things work
despite the challenges. I like to think
that I take after her in many ways.”
Turning his entrepreneurial
passion into a business came
naturally to Vusani, but he had to
be patient before it finally paid off.
He moved to Johannesburg in 2005
to study industrial engineering at
the University of Johannesburg but
“always knew I was not made to
“My mom was a nurse but also a solutionist who made things work
despite the challenges. I like to think that I take after her in many ways.”
48
I GOT IT FROM MY MAMA
Vusani was raised by a single mom,
Agnes Ravele, in Tzaneen, Limpopo.
“She single-handedly put me
through Tzaneen's best schools.
So, it goes without saying that I was
often part of a minority of black
kids in a prestigious private school,”
Vusani says.
Agnes would supplement her
government salary as a nurse
by working extra shifts at private
hospitals and by loading up her
mustard yellow bakkie on weekends
and dragging Vusani along to
help sell fruit and vegetables from
the boot.
“I mostly sat in the car and
watched with excitement as she
traded with buyers from nearby
villages. By the time I got to high
school, I already knew that money
was an important thing to have if
I wanted what all my high school
friends had at Stanford Lake College
(high school),” he says.
To ensure he made his own
pocket money, Agnes helped him
study formally and be an employee
for the rest of my life”.
MENTORSHIP MATTERS
A year after launching Native
Décor, which was running solely
on Vusani’s savings and maxed out
credit card, the premiere episode
of the reality TV show Shark Tank
South Africa aired on M-Net.
Vusani had entered the
competition in which small
businesses are invested in and
presented the Native Décor
concept. The business tycoons
ABOVE RIGHT: An
order for mirrors
for Superbalist
in production at
Native Décor’s Jozi
headquarters.
ABOVE LEFT: An
automated machine
cuts décor and
furniture pieces to
within a fraction of a
millimetre.
were impressed and Vusani became
the first entrepreneur to benefit from
an investment on the TV show. Gil
Oved, COO of investment company
LLH Capital, became a partner and
mentor to Vusani. “Money can help a
lot with the growth of a business, but
a great partner can help even more,”
Vusani says. “That’s worth more than
any monetary investment I could
have received. True mentorship can
be a game-changer if you’re running
a young start-up.” Gil initially owned
40% of the business, but two years
ago, he took on only an advisory role
and the full business was bought
back by Vusani.
“Most start-ups don’t know what
exactly to do once they’ve secured
funds such as a start-up loan, so
they end up misappropriating it. My
suggestion is that if your business is
not already growing, it’s a mistake to
seek investment then as you may not
be ready for it. Apart from the finance,
your business should be growing
already so that it can pay back those
funds and then some.”
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

Local entrepreneur
“I believe that education through storytelling is an
effective way of learning especially when it is relatable. SA's
unemployment crisis is firmly in the hands of the skilled
and educated people who can transition effectively.”
Vusani attributes the success of
his company to many factors and
says success is less of a place you
reach but a continuous process.
“Success to me also means more
and more efficient and transparent
manufacturing, minimal waste,
quick turn-arounds, happy staff,
high quality at each point, and clear
lines of communication and sight
to all challenges long before they
snowball. We are agile, responsive,
hands-on, and always evolving.”
Photos: Supplied
MINDFUL DAILY GRIND =
SUCCESS
Native Décor is made up of 13
employees and occupies a huge
warehouse in Wynberg, Johannesburg,
where the production process includes
the manufacturing and dispatching
of products.
Getting to this level of success
hasn’t been without (ongoing) bumps
in the road. “Challenges include
manufacturing high quality products
quickly while keeping overheads low
and growing the business aggressively.
Then, cash flow, which is a neverending
challenge as long as your
business is growing, as well as the
distribution of physical products can
be problematic – items break a great
deal of the time, and it is a real mission
developing packaging methods for
more over 200 different products!”
he explains.
Native Décor pieces are each made
to order and being an online store
means stock doesn’t need to be stored
and overheads are low.
RIGHT: Vusani Ravele lending a
hand to pack orders for delivery.
LEFT: Manufacturing and
dispatching takes place from
Native Décor’s premises in
Wynberg, Johannesburg.
Small talk
FAVOURITE PIECE OF FURNITURE
IN YOUR HOME: Native Décor’s Tall
Leaning Desk with drawer in white
CURRENT CAR VS DREAM CAR: Ford
Ranger Super Cab and Land Rover
Defender V8
FAVOURITE BOOK: Atomic Habits by
James Clear. I’m a self-help fanatic.
TOP ADVICE FOR UP-AND-COMING
ENTREPRENEURS: Validate your
idea – does anyone want what you
offer? Prove it.
EDUCATION THROUGH
SHARING
He launched a weekly podcast on
Spotify and Apple Podcasts called
The Sneaky Side Hustle this year. In it
he interviews people who managed
to transition from regular 9-to-5 jobs
to successfully running side hustles
that are now profitable and even
full-time businesses. “I believe that
education through storytelling is an
effective way of learning especially
when it is relatable.
“SA's unemployment crisis is
firmly in the hands of the skilled and
educated people who can transition
effectively.”
HOBBIES: Calisthenics, boxing,
reading, and hiking.
IF YOU WEREN’T DOING THIS,
YOU’D PROBABLY BE: An
entrepreneur doing something
else. I feel it is in my blood to create
and monetise.
SEE MORE:
• nativedecor.co.za
• The Sneaky Side Hustle podcast on
Spotify and Apple Podcasts
49
SPRING 2022 2021 | AA Traveller

Blooms
50
IN THE
KITCHEN
They look beautiful in the garden and in a glass vase, but flowers can also be used
to create fresh, delicious dishes that are perfect for spring dining and snacking.
Here are a few unusual (yet tasty!) recipes.
AA AA Traveller | WINTER | WINTER 2022020

Recipes
ASPARAGUS AND
KLAPPERTJIE QUICHE
CREAMY GREEN
VEGETABLE SOUP
ICE-COLD WATERMELON
SPRITZERS
ASPARAGUS AND
KLAPPERTJIE QUICHE
Serves: 6
Preparation: 40 minutes
Baking time: 35-40 minutes
SHORTCRUST PASTRY
280 g cake flour
2 ml salt
125 g cold butter, cubed
125 ml ice water
FILLING
200 g fresh asparagus
125 ml cream
2 eggs, whisked
45 ml parmesan cheese
125 ml klappertjies, finely
chopped
1 For the pastry: Preheat the
oven to 200°C. Sift together
the flour and salt. Rub the
butter into the flour with your
fingertips until the mixture
resembles breadcrumbs.
Add the water and mix until
a firm dough forms. Cover
with plastic wrap and cool for
30 minutes.
2 Roll the dough out on a
floured surface. Spray a
square, loose-base cake pan
(22 x 22 cm) with cooking spray
and line the pastry in the pan.
Blind bake for 10 minutes.
Remove the baking paper and
beans and bake for another
5 minutes. Lower the oven
temperature to 180°C.
3 For the filling: Cook or steam
the asparagus until al dente.
Allow to cool and arrange in
the tart crust. Sprinkle the
klappertjies on top.
4 Whisk together the cream
and eggs and season with salt,
black pepper and parmesan.
Pour into the crust and bake
for 35-40 minutes, until set.
Garnish with extra klappertjie
flowers and serve.
CREAMY GREEN
VEGETABLE SOUP
Serves: 4 as starter
Preparation: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
200 g young asparagus, cut
into 3 cm pieces
200 g baby marrows, thinly
sliced
750 ml chicken stock
pinch of nutmeg
1 can butter beans, drained
250 ml cream
50 g watercress, washed and
finely chopped
Deep fried zucchini flowers, to
serve (recipe on page 55)
1 Fry the vegetables in 5 ml of
oil until glossy. Add the stock
and beans, season with salt,
pepper and a pinch of nutmeg.
Simmer for 10 minutes.
2 Pour half of the soup into
a blender and blend. Pour
the blended soup back into
the pot, stir in the cream and
watercress and heat until just
warm. Serve with deep-fried
zucchini flowers.
ICE-COLD WATERMELON
SPRITZERS
Makes 1,5 litres
Preparation: 25 minutes, plus
freezing time
1 bottle (750 ml) dry rosé
750 g watermelon flesh,
cubed and pits removed
250 g strawberries, washed
and halved
60 ml gin or vodka (optional)
30 ml lime juice
60 ml rose syrup
handful of fragrant rose
petals from the garden (red
or pink)
1 Carefully pour the rosé into
ice trays and freeze.
2 Add the watermelon and
strawberries to a bag and
freeze. Keep extra slices or
balls of watermelon in the
fridge for garnishing.
3 Add the rosé ice blocks
and the frozen watermelon
and strawberries to a juicer
or blender that can crush
ice. Pour in the gin or vodka
(if using), lime juice and rose
syrup. Blend until smooth.
4 Pour the spritzer into
glasses and garnish with the
watermelon pieces or balls
and rose petals.
>
51
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

Recipes
MARINATED CHERRY
TOMATOES WITH BASIL
FLOWERS
ROSE CUPCAKES
52
ROSE CUPCAKES
Makes 24
Preparation: 25 minutes
Baking time: 20 minutes
ROSE WATER
4 fragrant roses, dark in colour
2 apples, peeled and grated
125 ml castor sugar
2 lidfulls rose essence
BATTER
3 eggs
187,5 ml (¾ c) sugar
3 lidfulls rose essence
250 ml cooking oil
250 ml plain yoghurt
a few drops red food
colouring (optional)
750 ml self-raising flour, sifted
2,5 ml baking soda
2,5 ml salt
20 ml poppy seeds
ROSE ICING
500 g icing sugar
1 lemon, zested and juiced
a few drops red food
colouring (optional)
5 lidfulls rose essence
plain yoghurt
1 For the rose water: Snip
into ribbons the first three
petals of each rose and add
to the grated apple (together
it should weigh about 500 g).
Add the castor sugar and rose
essence and mix well. Set
aside to allow the flavours to
develop.
2 For the cupcakes: Preheat
the oven to 200ºC. Beat the
eggs and sugar until light and
creamy. Add the rose essence,
oil, yoghurt and food colouring
(if using) and whisk the mixture
until it’s well combined.
3 Add the dry ingredients to
the wet mixture and whisk
it together. Pour in the rose
water and mix well using your
hands.
4 Spoon the batter into the
greased cups of two cupcake
tins (enough for 24) and bake
for about 20 minutes.
5 For the icing: Sift the icing
sugar, add the lemon zest and
juice, food colouring and rose
essence. Mix well and add
the yoghurt little by little until
the icing is spreadable and
smooth. Drip over the cooled
cupcakes. Before serving,
garnish each cupcake with an
edible flower.
MARINATED CHERRY
TOMATOES WITH BASIL
FLOWERS
Serves: 4
Marinating time: 1 hour
Preparation: 45 minute
2 red sweet peppers
500 g cherry tomatoes
15 Kalamata olives, pits
removed
180 g feta- or mozzarella
cheese, cubed
6 sun-dried tomatoes,
chopped
45 ml basil flowers
45 ml chives, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black
pepper
80 ml olive oil
15 ml balsamic vinegar
ciabatta bread
1 Cut the peppers into quarters
and remove the seeds.
Arrange the quarters on an
oven tray and roast under a
preheated grill until the skins
turns black. Remove from
the oven and peel off the
skins. Cut the peppers into
bite-size pieces.
2 Halve the cherry tomatoes.
Add it and the peppers, olives,
feta or mozzarella, sun-dried
tomatoes, basil flowers, chives,
salt and pepper to a large
mixing bowl. Drizzle with the
olive oil and sprinkle with the
balsamic vinegar. Marinate
for at least an hour at room
temperature. Stir it every now
and then.
3 Spoon the salad on top
of slices of ciabatta bread
and drizzle with some of the
marinade. Garnish with extra
basil flowers .
Tip: Serve this salad as an
antipasto at your next dinner
party or as a side at your
next braai.
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

Fact
Fioretto, which means
“little flower” in Italian,
resembles the tiny,
delicate flowers of
baby’s breath. It has
a sweeter taste
than traditional
cauliflower.
BROCCOLI SALAD WITH
PEANUT BUTTER SAUCE
Serves: 4 as a starter
Preparation: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
SALAD DRESSING
80 ml freshly squeezed naartjie
juice
15 ml soy sauce
5 ml peanut butter
30 ml oil
SALAD
200 g broccoli florets, blanched
70 g fioretto cauliflower,
blanched
80 g watercress
250 ml edamame beans or
peas, blanched
100 g roasted nuts, finely
chopped
53
1 Preheat the oven’s grill. Whisk
together the salad dressing
ingredients. Stir through the
broccoli and cauliflower. Arrange
the vegetables on a baking tray
and grill for about 10 minutes
until the vegetables are lightly
scorched and caramelised.
2 Allow the vegetable to slightly
cool. In a serving bowl, combine
the vegetables, watercress,
edamame or peas. Drizzle with
the salad dressing left over in
tray while it’s still slightly warm. >

KLAPPERTJIE PESTO
Makes about: 300 ml
Preparation: 15 minutes
two large handfuls klappertjie
leaves, stems removed
large handful basil leaves
2 garlic cloves (or to taste)
100 g mixed nuts, roasted and
salted
1 wheel feta cheese, crumbled
125 ml grated parmesan
2 spring onions, chopped
salt and pepper to taste
about 125–180 ml good quality
olive oil with a neutral taste
54
1 Wash the leaves in salt water
and pat dry. If you find that the
leaves taste too sharp, blanch
them in boiling water for a couple
of seconds and refresh in ice
water. As with spinach, this will
temper the taste. Young leaves
can be used raw.
2 Add all the ingredients, except
the olive oil, to a food processor
and pulse a couple of times. Add
the olive oil in a thin stream and
continue to pulse the pesto until
it has a spreadable consistency.
The more oil you add, the richer
(and runnier) the pesto will be.
Spoon into a clean jar and keep
in the fridge. It's delicious when
spread on bread or served as a
sauce with meats. Or add it to
your favourite pastas or salads.

Recipes
BOEBER
DEEP-FRIED BABY MARROW
FLOWERS
SPRING SALAD WITH
WATERCRESS SALAD
DRESSING
Recipes by: Annah Joko, Sonja Jordt, and Johané Neilson. Photos: Ryno, Francois Oberholster, Donna Lewis, and supplied
BOEBER
Serves: 8
Preparation: 20 minutes
Cooking time: about 35
minutes
45 ml sago
125 ml water
50 ml butter
250 ml fine vermicelli,
broken into pieces
8 cardamom peels
3 cinnamon sticks
200 g sultanas
2 litres milk
500 ml sugar
10 ml rose water
candied rose petals and
chopped pistachio nuts, to
serve
1 Soak the sago for about
30 minutes in cold water.
Drain. Melt the butter in
a saucepan and fry the
vermicelli over medium
heat until brown. Stir
continually to prevent it
from sticking or burning.
2 Add the rest of the
ingredients, except the
rose water, rose petals and
pistachio nuts, and stir over
medium heat until the sugar
has dissolved. Simmer
until thick and creamy.
Remember to stir every
now and then. Stir in the
rosewater.
3 Spoon the boeber into
bowls. Top with the rose
petals and pistachio nuts
and serve.
DEEP-FRIED ZUCCHINI
FLOWERS
Makes: about 12 flowers
Preparation: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
12 zucchinis with flowers
oil for deep-frying
BATTER
375 ml beer or soda water
150 g chickpea flour
250 g self-raising flour
50 g corn flour
3 ml cumin
pinch of baking powder
pinch of salt
FILLING
120 g soft goat’s cheese
mint and parsley, chopped
5 ml olive oil
1 For the batter: Whisk
together all the ingredients.
Allow to rest for at least
30 minutes.
2 Prep the flowers: Carefully
wipe clean each zucchini
with a paper towel. Don’t
wash the zucchinis in water
because their delicate
flowers will wilt. Open
each flower and remove
the stamen. Set aside while
you make the filling.
3 For the filling: Mix the
filling ingredients, roll into
balls and stuff each flower
with a ball. Carefully close
the tops of each flower.
4 Dust the flowers with
flour and dip in the batter.
Deep-fry in the warm oil
until golden brown and
crispy. (First test how hot the
oil is with a drop of batter. It
should gain colour within 30
seconds.)
5 Serve immediately as a
starter or as a crispy side to
the creamy green vegetable
soup on page 51.
SPRING SALAD WITH WATER-
CRESS DRESSING
Serves: 4
Preparation: 35 minutes
500 g baby potatoes
300 g fresh young asparagus
400 g fresh young peas
90 g prosciutto ham (or cooked
bacon)
1 avocado, sliced
50 g pecan nuts
125 g mixed salad leaves (like baby
spinach, rocket and watercress)
100 g parmesan or pecorino
shavings
10-12 pansies
SALAD DRESSING
50 g watercress
90 ml olive oil
30 ml apple vinegar
pinch sugar
1 Cook the potatoes in salted
water. Drain and halve. Blanch the
asparagus and peas.
2 Mix the potatoes, asparagus
and peas and arrange it with the
prosciutto, avocado and pecan nuts
on top of the salad leaves. Sprinkle
with the parmesan or pecorino
shavings and top with the pansies.
3 For the salad dressing: Pulse all the
ingredients in a food processor until
smooth. Season with salt and black
pepper. Drip over the salad and
serve.
55
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

Your camera’s built-in flash is almost
always your enemy. It will make your
images look unnatural at best. At worse,
your photos will be over exposed or
contain harsh and unflattering shadows,
and only what is closest to you will
light up while the rest of the image
remains dark. That said, taking photos
in low-light settings without a flash is
a challenge. The results are often too
dark, blurry, or very grainy. Like most
things in photography, getting it right
involves a delicate balance. Your aim:
to sacrifice as little quality as possible.
These 12 tips will help you get it right.
56
No light,
NO PROBLEM
WORDS & PHOTOS BY SAMANTHA REINDERS

Photography tips & tricks
1. INCREASE YOUR ISO
Adjusting your ISO is one of the simplest ways
to improve the quality of your low-light photos
and should be your first step when you realise
light is scarce.
Find the button/menu item that allows you
to change your camera’s ISO and familiarise
yourself with it. You can change it from shot
to shot. The higher the ISO number, the more
sensitive your camera will be to light. So, ISO
800 is more sensitive than ISO 100. Here’s the
trade-off: a lower ISO will produce sharper
images, and the higher the ISO, the more
image noise/grain (especially in dark areas)
will be present. The term ‘noise’ describes the
speckles of odd colours that tend to appear
in shots taken at high ISO, making your image
appear less clear.
It’s impossible to say what your general
ISO setting should be – it all depends on the
amount of light. A good rule of thumb is to
photograph with as low an
TIP If you have to ISO as possible for low-light
photograph at an extremely
high ISO, there an 800 setting and adjust
photography. Or start with
are post-production
accordingly. Noise or graininess
filters (some are free
and some, usually better
ones, are not) that photograph, so you need to
is better than having a blurred
can help you reduce
find that sweet spot.
grain. Or print your image
on a surface that It’s important to note that
has an artistic feel to newer cameras with newer
it, like wood or canvas. tech can function much better
This helps soften
(in other words, have less grain)
the imperfections in
the photo.
than older cameras at higher
ISO settings. If you find that
most of your photos are taken
in low light, it might just be the excuse you
need to upgrade to a newer model. To check
how your camera handles, simply zoom into
the dark area on the frame and check that
noise isn’t ruining the image. When going to
the camera store, tell the staff that low-light
photography is your thing. >
57
SUMMER SPRING 20202022 | AA | Traveller
AA Traveller

2. SLOWER SHUTTER SPEEDS
The longer your shutter speed, the more
light goes into your camera. Sounds
simple, right? Just keep your shutter
open for a really long time, and voila! But
remember, photography is a game of
trade-offs. The longer your shutter is open,
the higher your chances of a blurred photo
due to camera shake (see tip #4). This is
probably the number one problem you’ll
face when it comes to photographing in
darker situations.
The rule of thumb is that you should not
shoot at lower than a 1/125th of a second.
(There are exceptions to this: you probably
want to go higher if you’re using a lens
that weights more than a dachshund or
you’ve had five cups of coffee on the trot.)
If your shutter speed is too long, even the
slightest movement of your hands, for
example pressing the shutter button, will
cause your photograph to blur.
If you’re familiar with the settings on your
camera, you’ll know that increasing the
shutter setting by 1 f/stop
will allow twice as much
light to pass into the camera.
TIP
You might find
that instead of
using the shutter
priority or
aperture priority
modes, you’ll
take better photos
if you use the
manual mode
and manipulate
both separately.
3. ADJUST THE
APERTURE
Found on your lens
and measured in f-stops, the aperture
determines how much light the camera
allows in. A wider aperture (the lowest
f-number) will allow more light to pass
through.
So, when shooting in low light, simply
open the aperture to its maximum (the
lowest number on the dial). This will allow
as much light as possible through the
lens. When you’re shooting in low light,
you really need as much of that light as
possible to reach the camera’s image
sensing surface.
TIP: Keep in mind that you are changing
the depth of field of your photograph
when adjusting the aperture. Take this into
account when composing and focusing.
4. REDUCE CAMERA
SHAKE
Invariably, when the going gets
dark, you’ll be using slow shutter
speeds, so you’ll have to watch out
for camera shake. The slightest
movement and your photo won’t
make the greatest hits list from your trip.
To eliminate camera shake entirely,
your tripod (used in conjunction with your
camera’s timer or a shutter release cable/
button) is your best bet. This will give you
much more leeway and allow you to work
for much longer in darker scenarios. If you
don’t have one, or you’re not in the mood
to lug it around (it’s face it, it’s heavy!), there
are a couple of (albeit less perfect) tricks
you can try, like using your camera’s builtin
stabilisation features. This option can be
found on the camera body or the camera
lens. And different brands use different
terms: Nikon is Vibration Reduction (VR),
Canon is Image Stabilisation (IS), Sony is
SteadyShot INSIDE, etc.
58
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

Photography tips & tricks
TIP: Increase sturdiness by standing with
your feet apart and balancing your weight
equally, lean against a wall or car, use your
bonnet or the roof of your car as a stand-in
tripod, hold your breath, etc.
5. USE OTHER LIGHT
SOURCES
Low-light photography doesn’t mean no
light photography. To get as sharp of an
image as possible without the use of a
flash, try to incorporate as much light as
you can. It’s not cheating, promise!
If you can, move your subject as close as
you can to the light source or, if possible,
move the light towards your subject.
Anything from your cellphone torch,
a headlamp, candles, a lamp, to a more
powerful battery powered light source can
be a great addition to your camera bag.
You can position it near the primary
light source to increase its power or
add it somewhere else. Remember
to keep shadows in mind!
Reflectors are also great lightweight
and inexpensive tools to add light to any
situation. Simply find where the primary
light source is coming from and position
the reflector to bounce that light back at
the subject.
6. A BLUR ISN’T ALWAYS
SO BAD!
The combination of low light and slow
shutter speed will inevitably result in some
blurring in your photographs, especially
when there is almost no light.
Be creative. Slow the shutter down even
more and capture the blur. Things like car
lights can add drama to a road scene.
TIP
Only getting
a silhouette?
That’s because
your only source
of light is behind
your subject
Move around
to change your
position.
TIP: Consider painting with
light. This is a technique
where the camera is
mounted on a firm tripod
with its shutter held open (this setting
is normally marked ‘B’ or ‘bulb’). The
photographer then walks into the frame
holding a flashlight (or any mobile light
source). He or she can then switch on the
flashlight and paint with the light. You have
to be careful not to illuminate yourself or
position yourself in such a way that your
silhouette shows up in the shot. Wear dark
clothes. When done right, the results are
stunning.
7. USE THE BEST EQUIPMENT
If you are going to do a lot of low-light
photography, invest in the right gear.
LENSES: Remember #3? A wider aperture
>
59
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

Photography tips & tricks
60
allows for a fast shutter speed, and a faster
shutter speed means a sharper image in
low light. If you’re shooting with a DSLR
camera and are considering (or looking for
an excuse to) buying a new lens to help
accommodate your low-light photography,
you want a fast lens. A fast lens has a
wide aperture (f/1.4, f/1.8, or f/2.8) and is
designed for the job because it enables
the camera to take in more
light.
To make a lens faster the
manufacturer has to use more
glass. More glass means more
polishing and good design.
Faster lenses (of the same
focal length) tend to be more
expensive than slower lenses.
But an f/1.4 lens will make so
much difference in low light if
you’re used to a f/5.6 lens.
CAMERAS: With digital
cameras, the larger the image
TRIPOD TIP
Turn off your
camera’s
anti-camera
shake setting.
It’s great for
hand-held shots
but can often
introduce camera
shake when
the camera is
attached to a
tripod.
sensor the more sensitive it tends to be in
low light. A full frame 35mm digital SLR
camera will cost more than cameras with
smaller sensors but will be worth it if the
majority of what you photograph is in low
light. (Don’t be confused by manufactures
who pack in millions more pixels for
marketing reasons. This does not equate to
the same thing!)
8. ADJUST THE WHITE
BALANCE
Shooting in low-light conditions can result
in your photographs looking washed out or
lacking in detail and colour. By customising
your digital camera’s white balance, you’re
essentially telling your camera what white
should look like in your image, so the
camera can adjust accordingly to try to
captured colours as accurately as possible.
To prevent your images from having a
yellow, orange, or blue shade to them,
adjust the white balance to coordinate with
the type of light you’re using. Fiddle to find
the best option for your scene. When in
doubt, stick with auto white balance.
9. SHOOT IN B&W
If poor colour issues are getting the better
of you, remember that shooting in black
and white (or converting to it afterwards in
post processing) is always an option.
10. SHOOT IN RAW
Shooting in RAW will create higher quality,
sharper images than shooting in JPEG
format. By doing this, you’ll also allow
yourself more post-processing options.
You’ll be able to change the exposure and
colour balance after the fact if needed.
11. FINDING THE FOCAL
POINT – NOT SO EASY!
One of my biggest issues with low-light
photography is when the autofocus starts
to fail. If there is not enough detail for the
autofocusing system to latch onto, you will
hear your lens adjusting and readjusting.
This is the lens trying to find a focal point.
A helpful technique is to put the camera
on a tripod and light the subject with an
external light, even a phone light. With
this small amount of light, your autofocus
system should be able to find the focal
point. You can switch the lens to the
manual focus setting, so the focal point
won’t change. Alternatively, you’ll need to
focus manually.
12. THE GOLDEN RULE:
PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT
Unless you’re some sort of prodigy, you
won’t master low-light photography
immediately. You need to experiment
and practise.
Start by shooting non-moving subjects
(to reduce your chances of getting blurry
images) and take all of the photography
tips listed above into consideration. If
something doesn’t work, try again with
different camera settings.
With enough practice, you should
become fairly comfortable shooting
images in low-light settings, and you will
have crisp, clear shots – without using a
flash – in no time at all.
Samantha Reinders is a
freelance photojournalist
with a love for the open
road. She’s worked for
National Geographic and
was the photo editor at
Weg/go! magazine for
four years. She sees her
collection of portraits as
a lifelong diary of the
interesting people she has
met along the way and is
one of the reasons she
loves her job.
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

Books
Super athletes and a must-read
from a South African writer
In this issue, we feature two books about ordinary people
accomplishing extraordinary feats, plus a local author who
deserves a spot on your reading list.
The books were selected by the editors and the publishers had no input in the reviews. Images: Thierry Cassuto and Gerda Engelbrecht.
Born to Run: the hidden
tribe, the ultra-runners and
the greatest race the world
has never seen
BY CHRISTOPHER MCDOUGALL
When journalist
and avid runner
Christopher McDougall
experiences
inexplicable foot pain
that modern medicine
fails to cure, he
embarks on an epic
and dangerous journey
to find the Tarahumara,
a hidden tribe from
the Copper Canyon
in Mexico. The Tarahumara live in isolation,
deep in the Mexican wilderness, and they are
masters of an art that many modern people
have forgotten: the ability to run long (very
long) distances barefoot. The Tarahumara
have apparently mastered the ability to
cover hundreds of kilometres without
needing to rest, and according to legend,
they can outrun anything from an antelope
to an Olympic marathon athlete. McDougall
hopes to find answers to this mystery with
the help of a mysterious man named Caballo
Blanco (“the white horse”). The journalist’s
newly acquired knowledge encourages him to
complete a 50-mile race (80 km) over rugged
terrain with the Tarahumara. Born to Run is part
travel story, part memoir, and part scientific
investigation into the so-called barefoot
shoes theory, which includes information from
Harvard University. It’s a fascinating book! If
you've thrown in the towel with your hiking or
running programme due to an injury, this book
will give you something to think about.
It might just prove to you that we were all
“born to run”.
Becoming Odyssa – Adventures
on the Appalachian Trail
BY JENNIFER PHARR DAVID
Jennifer Pharr Davis
currently holds the
record for the person
who has completed the
greulling Appalachian
Trail, or the AT, as it’s
known, in the shortest
amount of time.
In 2011, she completed
the 2 190-mile (more
than 3 500 km) trail in
just 46 days, 11 hours and
20 minutes. No man or
woman has been able to
beat her AT record since.
Becoming Odyssa,
however, isn’t about her
journey to set that record.
Rather, it recounts the
first time she took on the
AT as an inexperienced
hiker, the characters
she met along the way,
and the challenges you
can expect on this route
(especially as a solo
female hiker). The title
of the book refers to the
Sins of the Father
BY DIRE TLADI
tradition on the AT to
choose a “hiking name”
for yourself. Her name
is the female version of
Odysseus, the king from
Homer’s Greek epic, who
goes on an hero’s quest.
Her book will keep you
glued to the last step.
A diplomatic gathering in Lubumbashi is the target
of a terrorist attack and the terrorists have one
goal: they want him, without saying who he is.
Tolamo Moagi, who readers got to know
in Blood in the Sand of Justice, teams up with
Nyeleti Pistorius, a captain in the Directorate for
Priority Crime Investigation (the Hawks), and French
intelligence officer Julie Bourbon.
This story takes readers on an exciting international chase – from Khartoum to
Berlin; from Vienna to Den Haag – as Tolamo and his team
try to unravel this mystery and stop the terrorists’ plot.
Prof. Dire Tladi is a lecturer in International Relations
at the University of Pretoria. In an interview with the
university’s website, he said that Deon Meyer once told
him that he should write about what he knows, and that’s
why his stories have a strong legal background. He also
learnt a lot from Stephen King’s On Writing, a type of
handbook for aspiring writers.
The end result is a fast-paced novel that will keep
readers guessing until the last page, and it deserves a
spot amongst the top-rated thrillers in the world.
61
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

Gear
Every month should be Heritage Month! We have a lekker selection of
products for outdoor enthusiasts – all locally produced and crafted.
Granadilla
Not only does this brand’s swimwear look
fantastic, they’re also made from 100% waste
materials (like fishing nets and plastic) and dry
quickly. Their range includes shorts that end
just above the knee as well as short shorts.
And they also have one pieces and bikinis. It's
made by South Africans and in South Africa but
sold worldwide.
PRICE R799 for these swim shorts (left) at
granadillaswim.com
Blu Betty
Blu Betty's beautiful leather shoes are
made in the Durban area. The team
includes talented shoe designers that
crafts sandals, boots, and women’s
shoes in unique designs.
PRICE R725 for the Sienna Goldskin
sandals (right) at blubetty.co.za
62
Cape Mohair
Wool socks in spring and
summer? Absolutely! Wool is
excellent at regulating heat and
keeps your feet warm in winter
and cool in summer. It’ll also
protect you from blisters, and
your feet will smell better than
they would in synthetic socks.
Mohair is one of South Africa’s
best exports and the industry
is considered to be top-class
around the world.
Cape Mohair had humble
beginnings in 1991, but today
it’s the biggest manufacturer
of mohair socks in the world.
The wool they use to make
their socks is from their angora
farm in the Western Cape, and
their socks are made locally.
Their range includes sport and
lifestyle socks, plus special
socks for diabetics. They
also have socks made from
bamboo and cotton, and the
company manufactures mohair
blankets at their factory in
Plettenberg Bay.
PRICE R148 for the socks on
the left at capemohair.co.za
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

Freestyle
South Africa is know for its quality leather vellies, but local brand
Freestyle is famous for more that just vellies. Get a pair of Corkie
sandals for the warmer months ahead. And be sure to check out
their beautiful handbags. If you’re planning on heading to Europe
for winter, have a look at their wool-lined boots. All products are
hand-made in Cape Town.
PRICE R995 for these Corkie sandals at freestylesa.co.za
Zizamele
Ceramics
Move over Venetian glass! Rather choose a
stunning ceramic glass bowl that’s made in
South Africa. It’ll look stunning in your home
or the reception area of your office. The bowl
pictured here is the Africa version of a friendship
bowl and the blue patterns are inspired by
shweshwe fabric.
PRICE R2 400 for the 8Lady at zizamele.co.za
Veldskoen
Chances are you’ve already noticed these vellies
with their colourful soles on the feet of several
South Africans. Now, they’ve added new members
to their family: sneaker-style vellies that are named
after South African dance styles. Do you prefer the
pantsula, the langarm or the kwaito?
PRICE R899 for the langarm at veldskoen.com
63
Freya Hats
Sun’s out . . . hats out! Made from sustainable fabrics, Freya
Hats are hand-crafted in South Africa. Their range includes
straw and cotton-fabric hats.
PRICE Various prices at freyahats.co.za
>
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

Gear
Funky
pants
Add some colour to your workouts with Funky
Pants. Their shorts sport fun, quirky designs,
and their products are proudly manufactured in
KwaZulu-Natal.
PRICE shorts are R490 each at funkypants.co.za
Simply
Bee
Switch to natural skincare products that are
free from harmful chemicals – your skin
will thank you! Simply Bee's products are
manufactured in Hopefield on the West Coast
(about 140 north of Cape Town). The range
includes several skincare products, as well as
sunscreen, baby products, and even wax for
leather shoes. The Butt Balm is recommended
for cyclists suffering from saddle sores. If
you’re a hiker, and you have blisters, try the
Butt Balm on your feet. According to Simply
Bee, it’s more effective than petroleum jelly.
PRICE R228 for Butt Balm at simplybee.co.za
64
National Luna
camp fridges
Want to braai a tjoppie on your next 4x4 holiday? Then you’ll need a 12 volt camp
freezer and a double battery system for your safari vehicle. National Luna has been
manufacturing products for South Africa in South Africa for the last 30 years, and they
understand the unforgiving conditions in which their products need to do their thing.
PRICE Various prices at nationalluna.com
This selection of products was chosen by the editorial staff, and the various brand featured didn’t pay for the exposure. All prices mentioned can change without notice.
Delivery costs are not factored into the prices. The editorial staff can’t accept responsibility for orders.
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

Advice
10
bad driving
habits
Whether it’s tailgating or driving in high heels, chances are you’re guilty of
at least one of these driving errors. The AA explains why these bad driving
habits are dangerous to you, your passengers, and other road users.
BY PETRO-ANNE VLOK
Traffic regulations are there for
a reason: it keeps road users,
including pedestrians and cyclists,
safe. But with many having written
their learner’s exam years (or even
decades) ago, it’s easy to forget what some of
these rules are and why they’re so important.
Here is a list of common bad driving habits,
ranging from serious traffic violations to actions
that you might not even know are dangerous. >
65

Advice
adjust your speed to the conditions
of the road and your ability to
control your vehicle in these
conditions,” advises Layton.
66
1 Tailgating
Even though the National Road
Traffic Act states that motorists
shouldn’t “follow another vehicle
more closely than is reasonable
and prudent”, the chances are that
you’re guilty of this bad habit –
and that you’ve also been on the
receiving end of it.
“Tailgating is extremely
dangerous,” Layton Beard, head
of public affairs and international
relations at the AA explains.
“Whether at low or high speeds,
it’s critical to maintain a safe
following distance.”
The less space there is between
you and the vehicle in front of you,
the less space and time you have to
manoeuvre your car out of harm’s
way should you need to do so. Also,
the driver being tailgated can get
frustrated and distracted, which in
itself can cause an accident or lead
to road rage.
You should be able to come to a
complete stop if the car in front of
you suddenly slams on their brakes,
so always keep a distance of at least
three cars (or a time delay of two
seconds) between yourself and the
car in front of you. Increase your
following distance when travelling
in bad weather or if there is poor
visibility.
2 Distracted driving
A distracted driver is a dangerous
driver, and while we all know
that it’s illegal to hold or use a
cellphone while driving, there
are various other distractions
that can be just as dangerous. “A
cellphone is an absolute no-no, but
so are tablets, laptops, books or
newspapers,” Layton adds.
Eating while driving is
another distraction, and so is
smoking, arguing or having
an intense conversation with a
passenger, putting on make-up, or
daydreaming “Your focus must be
100% on the road. If you take your
attention away – even for a second –
you increase your chances of being
involved in an incident. Driving
requires your full attention,
whether you’re travelling at 60 or
120 km per hour,” he warns.
Wearing a seat belt reduces
the risk of death in motor
vehicle crashes by up to
45% and seat belts prevent
99% of occupants being
ejected in a crash.
3 Not adapting
your speed to the
circumstances
Just because you’re in a 120km/h
zone, it doesn’t mean you have to
travel at this speed. Speed limits
give you an indication of how
fast you can go under the ideal
conditions, but the conditions on
the road aren’t always perfect.
Roads can become slippery and
hazardous when there is rain, hail,
snow, ice, sleet, or reduced visibility
due to fog or it being dark, so you
need to slow down. “You need to
4 Not maintaining your
car
You can’t expect your car to run
for years if you don’t look after it.
In time, parts need to be cleaned
or replaced and tyres wear down.
If you don’t keep up with your
vehicle’s maintenance schedule,
or replace your tyres when
needed, your car or tyres could
malfunction, creating a perilous
situation not only for yourself but
other road users as well.
“You run the risk of a blowout
and losing complete control of your
car if you drive with worn tyres. If
you don’t keep your car in a good
working condition, your clutch
could blow or your engine could
seize up. And when your problem
becomes the problem of other
drivers, it can have a severe knock
on effect and result in serious
collisions,” Layton says.
5 Not wearing a
seatbelt or using a
child restraint system
Many use the “I’m just popping
down the road” as an excuse not to
buckle up, but wearing a seatbelt is
a legal requirement, even if it’s just
for a quick trip, and so is strapping
a child under three years of age
into an approved child safety seat.
We all know why buckling up
is so important: wearing a seat
belt reduces the risk of death in
motor vehicle crashes by up to
45% and seat belts prevent 99% of
occupants being ejected in a crash,
according to Safely Home, a road
safety campaign by the Western
Cape Government. And the World
Health Organisation Global Status
Report on Road Safety 2013 states
that a seatbelt reduces the risk of
fatal injury by 40-50% for drivers
and front-seat passengers and by up
to 75% for rear-seat occupants.
“And as an adult, it’s your
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

ADDITIONAL SOURCES: aa.co.za; arrivealive.co.za; itf-oecd.org; k53.autotrader.co.za; k53passright.co.za; news24.com; safelyhome.westerncape.gov.za
responsibility to be a good role
model to younger passengers. If
you don’t wear a seat belt, it sends
the wrong message to them. They
might ask themselves why they
should wear a one if you don’t,”
Layton adds.
6 Inappropriate shoes
While there aren’t any laws
regulating what shoes you should
wear while driving, certain types
of footwear may affect your driving
ability. “When you’re driving, your
feet and ankles are hard at work
using the pedals to accelerate,
brake, and engage and release
the clutch,” the AA explains. “It’s
important that your choice of
footwear gives you freedom of
movement of your feet and allows
you to maintain better control of
the car.”
High heels are a no. They elevate
your heel, making it difficult to
judge how much pressure you
should apply to the pedal. Plus,
your heel could get caught in the
floor mat or, even worse, get stuck
under the pedal, the AA adds.
And shoes that can come off
easily, like flipflops and sandals,
should also be avoided because
you won’t have full control over
the pedals, explains Layton. Going
barefoot also comes with risks: your
feet are more likely to cramp and
due to perspiration, you might have
less grip on the pedals.
So, what’s your best option?
“It all comes down to the soles of
your shoes,” says the AA. Choose
flat shoes with soles that have good
grip and aren’t too thick or too
wide. “Thick soles prevent your
feet from feeling the pedals and
judging the correct amount of
pressure to apply. Wide soles are
also to be avoided as you could
possibly press two pedals at the
same time.
Keep a pair of “driving” flats in
your car. That way, you can change
into you heels when you get to a
party or your flipflops if you’re
going to the beach.
AREAS OF CONCERN
According to the International Transport
Forum’s 2019 annual road safety report,
the behaviour of South African road users,
which includes pedestrians and cyclist, is an
important determinant of the country’s road
safety performance.
Major areas of concern include jaywalking,
speeding and inappropriate speed, hit and
run accidents, driving under the influence of
alcohol, distracted driving, and the country’s
shockingly low seat belt wearing rate.
7 Having loose items in
your car
This is another bad driving habit that
isn’t illegal per se but still dangerous.
When involved in a collision, your car
is subjected to a massive amount of
force, and this moves everything that’s
not securely strapped in forwards
and backwards. If you have loose
items in your car during a crash, they
effectively become projectiles that can
injure vehicle occupants.
“For example, if you have a 2 litre
cooldrink bottle lying in your car,
it can become a projectile in case
of a crash,” Layton explains. “The
same goes for pets. They need to be
properly secured, otherwise they can
pose a threat to others in the vehicle
during a collision.”
8 Not using your
indicator
Your indicator lets other road users
know what your intentions are, and
not using it can frustrate other drivers
and be extremely dangerous. If you
fail to indicate that you want to take a
turn off, the car behind you won’t
know that they need to slow
down, and they could hit
you from behind.
There are also those who are
guilty of using their indicators at
the last minute, and this can be as
irritating and dangerous as using
no indictor. Be sure to give other
motorist enough time to see and
react to your indicator signal.
9 Overtaking when you
shouldn’t
According to the K53 Learners
Licence handbook, it’s “a rule
violation to drive across a solid
dividing marking”. This rule is there
for good reason: traffic signs or
markings that prohibit overtaking
are there to help avoid serious
crashes, like head-on collisions.
So, no matter how long you’ve
been sitting behind that truck, if
you’re on a blind rise, curve, or any
stretch of road where your view
ahead is limited, you need to stay in
your lane.
10 General reckless
driving
Speeding through yellow lights
(you’re supposed to stop unless you
really can’t), swerving in and out of
lanes without checking your blind
spots, ignoring traffic signs or the
speed limit … Aggressive driving
is an accident waiting to happen.
What’s more, it can easily spill over
into road rage, adding fuel to an
already raging fire.
“The rule of the road applies to
everyone. They are there to keep
everyone safe, and everyone should
adhere to the law,” Layton
concludes.
67

First Impressions
Does the new Peugeot 208 have what it takes to take
on the ever-popular VW Polo? Juliet McGuire takes
one for a spin to find out. She also test drives the
Hyundai Tuscon, Citroën C3 Aircross, and Volvo XC60.
PEUGEOT 208
MODEL CHOICE: 208 Allure Auto
PRICED FROM: R402 900
SERVICE PLAN: three years/60 000 km
WARRANTY: five years/100 000 km
68
The compact hatch segment is a tough
one. Not only is it on the decline, but it's
also dominated by a faultless competitor,
the Volkswagen Polo – the Achilles’ heel
of any manufacturer wanting a slice of the
pie. But there are alternatives that could
take some sales away from the German
wunderkind. The Peugeot 208 is one
such car, and bonus, it’s the most stylish
Peugeot 208 yet.
I’m not the only one that thinks so: the
208 won the 2020 European Car of the Year
Award. It also won the Best City Car 2021
category in the Women’s World Car of the
Year Awards. It was also the best-selling
car in Europe for the first quarter of 2021.
This model now sports a redesigned
bumper, a wider grille, daytime running
lights with two-tone headlights, and
restyled fog lamps. There are three
different trim levels available, each with
their own distinct wheels. The rangetopping
GT gets 17-inch alloys, as well as
gloss black mirrors and wheel arches.
The cabin oozes quality, and its simplicity
is appealing. The third generation i-Cockpit
includes a three-dimensional heads-up
instrument cluster and a large seven- or
10-inch infotainment system. The compact
steering wheel is something that you’ll
either love or hate – I think it adds to the fun
and dynamic driving experience.
The entry-level Active model is powered
by a 1.2-litre naturally aspirated pot giving
you 55 kW, but if you opt for the mid-spec
Allure model, you’ll enjoy a 1.2-litre three
cylinder turbocharged engine with 74 kW
and 205 Nm. This is paired to a six-speed
manual gearbox. You’ll see an average
fuel consumption of about 6.2 litres/100
km. There is also a more powerful
engine on offer for the top spec Allure
and GT models. These have a six-speed
auto transmission.
And a host of safety features make it the
best in class when it comes to advanced
driving aids. It boasts with traffic sign
recognition for the start and end of speed
limits, stop signs, one-way street signs, and
no overtaking and end of no overtaking.
There is also driver attention alert, lane
keeping assist, hill start assist and active
safety brake. There is a 180-degree camera
and park assist sensors.
This car’s best-seller status in other
markets should give you an indication of
just how good it is. It's certainly a worthy
contender in this segment, and just
because it doesn't sport a German badge,
doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be considered.
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

Motoring
HYUNDAI TUCSON
The Hyundai Tucson has come a long
way, especially in the design department.
When it launched 16 years ago, it wasn’t
what you would call a looker, but it was
still desirable, becoming Hyundai’s bestselling
SUV. The new fourth-generation
Tucson is different. I was blown away by
the design when I got the test car. It’s by
far the best looking Tucson I’ve seen. It
is the first Hyundai SUV to be developed
according to the company’s “Sensuous
Sportiness” design identity, and what a
difference this has made.
The interior of the new Tucson is the
most spacious it has ever been thanks to
it being wider and longer. The boot space
has been increased to offer 539 litres, and
with the seats down, that grows to 1 860
litres. The cabin is a sophisticated place
to be, and it feels almost premium. It also
sports multi-air mode, which consists of
a combination of direct and indirect air
vents for air conditioning and heating to
create a gentler air flow. There is also a
wireless charging pad, a front and rear
USB port, and the top of the range Elite
models have a panoramic glass sunroof.
There are two engines on offer: a
2.0-litre naturally aspirated petrol unit or
(my pick) a 2.0-litre turbodiesel. The latter
puts out 137 kW and 416 Nm. It is mated
to an eight-speed automatic transmission
and claims 7.9 litres/100 km of fuel. The
naturally aspirated engine doesn’t offer
enough in terms of torque. You only get
192 Nm, and considering that this is a
medium-sized SUV, you realise that it isn’t
going to get you anywhere quickly.
Also, and more importantly, it can’t pull
much, so if you’re planning on towing
anything, this isn’t the engine for you.
The fuel consumption will also be much
higher as the engine works harder to get
it going.
Unfortunately, the turbodiesel is
only available in the top of the range
Elite model, so you’ll pay a rather high
premium for it. I would like to see this
engine offered in the entry and mid-spec
models, too. And even more so, I would
like to see a turbopetrol being offered.
MODEL CHOICE: R2.0 Elite Turbodiesel AT
PRICED FROM: R699 900
SERVICE PLAN: six years/90 000 km
WARRANTY: seven years/200 000 km
Safety features are aplenty in this
new Tucson. It has a six-airbag system:
front and side airbags for the driver and
front passenger and curtain airbags that
also offer protection to rear occupants.
The outer seats on the rear bench
have ISOFIX latching points for child
protection seats. Hyundai SmartSense
means the new Tucson gains blind-spot
collision warning and rear-cross traffic
alert on the Executive models, but the
Elite sees a host of features, including
forward collision-avoidance assist, lane
keeping assist, lane follow assist (which
automatically adjusts the steering to help
keep the vehicle centred in the lane),
smart cruise control, rear cross-traffic
collision assist, fatigue detection/driver
attention warning, and high beam assist,
which is a system that automatically
adjusts the headlamp range according
to brightness of other vehicles and
road conditions.
And here’s a fun fact: the new Tucson
made its debut in the 2021 movie Spider-
Man: No Way Home.
>
69
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

CITROËN C3 AIRCROSS
70
This is no ordinary looking vehicle, and it’s
sure to turn heads. Citroën says this updated
model has a more assertive personality,
and that is glaringly obvious. This is a brand
that refuses to be ordinary. It wants to stand
out. It wants to be niche. It wants to attract
customers who don’t want to be run of
the mill.
This updated model has seen a few
tweaks here and there, with a few new
colours added to the range. The playful
design on previous models has been
replaced with a more mature look, but it
still represents Citroën’s signature, unique
identity. There are now more customisation
options with new colour combinations and a
choice of two roof colours: white or black.
Space is generous in the C3 Aircross,
especially in the boot. The rear bench slides
forward so you’ll get an extra 110 litres if
needed, taking the total luggage capacity
to 520 litres which is really pretty generous,
especially in this segment. The boot floor
is also dual height, which provides a flat
floor when the rear seats are folded down.
The new centre console features a large
storage space at the rear so either rear
seat passengers or front passengers can
make use of it. The seven-inch touchscreen
infotainment is now even more user friendly
and it features built-in navigation and mirror
screen functionality, Apple CarPlay, and
Android Auto.
There is only one engine on offer and that
MODEL CHOICE: Shine 1.2 PureTech 81 kW Turbo Auto
PRICED FROM: R424 900
SERVICE PLAN: Three years/60 000 km
WARRANTY: Five years/100 000 km
is the 1.2-litre three-cylinder turbocharged
petrol unit that produces 81 kW and
205 Nm of torque. It is mated to a six-speed
automatic gearbox as standard, which
is very smooth shifting, although, when
physically shifting it into your selected gear,
it can be quite tough. Perhaps over time it
will loosen up a bit. It is a very responsive
and punchy engine. A lovely cruiser on the
highway as well. The ride is very smooth
and very comfortable overall. The fuel
consumption is claimed at 6.5 litres/100
km, but you will see readings closer to 8.5
litres/100 km which is
quite disappointing.
The C3 Aircross comes
with 12 intuitive driving
aids which ensures a safer
drive. Safety technologies
include a colour headup
display, as well as
speed sign recognition
and recommendations,
emergency brake assist,
automatic headlights and
a driver attention alert,
keeping you safe on
longer trips. It also features smart keyless
entry and park assist.
Hill assist will keep you securely in control
on steep slopes, preventing unwanted
movement when the brake pedal is
released on gradients of more than 3%.
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

Motoring
VOLVO XC60
Thinking of buying an electric car, but
range concerns raining on your parade?
Volvo has a solution for you: the XC60 T8
Recharge, or as Greg Maruszewski, the
managing director of Volvo Car South
Africa, says: “The EV with a back-up plan.”
This flagship is a hybrid. It has a battery
and electric motor which awards you
around 81 km of range, but it also has a
2.0-litre turbopetrol engine that will kick
in if you run out of range. You’ve
got 233 kW of power and 400 Nm
of torque coming from the petrol
engine and 107 kW and 309 Nm
thanks to the electric motor. This
means you can get to 100 km/h in
just 4.8 seconds. But here’s the real kicker:
your fuel consumption is claimed at just
1.6 litres/100 km!
You’re able to choose your drive mode
with pure mode being all-electric driving.
There is only one criticism with this
selection process – it’s a rather laborious
task. One has to click through a few
screens before you are able to select
the mode you want. A one-touch button
would have been appreciated. I spent
most of my test drive in hybrid mode
where the drivetrain technology dictates
the most efficient way forward. There is an
option of one-pedal driving. This is thanks
to the regenerative braking system. But
be warned: it needs some practice. Take
your foot off the accelerator and you
might find yourself being catapulted
forward. (Ok, that is somewhat dramatic,
but you get my point.) Once you have the
hang of it, you will see your range extend,
if only by a teeny, tiny amount. Every
“drop” helps, I guess.
MODEL CHOICE: T8 Recharge AWD Inscription
PRICED FROM: R1 218 900
MAINTENANCE PLAN: Five years/100 000 km
WARRANTY: Five years/1000 000 km
This derivative might sit below the
XC60 B5 Momentum AWD, but that does
not mean it is short of standard features.
You can expect 18-inch alloy wheels,
dual-zone climate control, keyless entry,
heated front seats, a power-adjustable
driver’s seat, parking assist (front and
rear), a reversing camera, and inductive
smartphone charging, while leather
upholstery is optional.
The XC60 remains a favourite SUV
of mine. Not only is the drive fantastic,
but it is also comfortable, practical, and,
of course, safe. The XC60 is equipped
with Volvo Cars’ latest advanced driver
assistance systems sensor platform, a
modern, scalable active safety system
that consists of an array of radars,
cameras and ultrasonic sensors. This
means the detection of other road
users, automatic braking, and collision
avoidance. It also allows for driver support
from standstill up to highway speeds
through the pilot assist function.
This is a family car that will suit
those who are concerned about
the environment and want to head
in the direction of electronification,
but who are perhaps not ready to
take the full leap. Volvo is heading
towards an all-electric line-up, but until
then, it will offer its customers these kinds
of alternatives.
You will get installation of a home
charging station for overnight top-ups
included in the price of the XC60 T8
Recharge. But that’s not all: Volvo offers
each customer the use of an “oldfashioned”
internal combustion-powered
Volvo for a period of two weeks per year
(for three years) should they feel unsure
about covering longer distances in their
electric vehicle, which includes the XC60
T8 Recharge.
71
Images: Supplied. Prices correct at time of going to press.
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

BY JULIET MCGUIRE
72
M O V E
OVER
SUVS
MULTIPURPOSE VEHICLES (MPVS) HAVE TRADITIONALLY BEEN BLAND,
BUT WITH THE RECENT INFLUX OF MODERN MODELS, THEY MIGHT GIVE
VEHICLES IN THE POPULAR SUV SEGMENT A RUN FOR THEIR MONEY.

Motoring
The SUV segment’s grip on the market has
been so strong that it’s easy to forget that
there are other options out there. Enter the
humble MPV. In the past, they have been
a bit boxy and somewhat industrial, but
things have changed this past year with the
arrival of new, luxurious contenders.
KIA CARNIVAL
This is probably my favourite MPV on the market. You might
know it as a Sedona or Grand Sedona, but its global product
name has now been reinstated, so we are back to Carnival.
I was fortunate enough to drive it on an epic road trip from
Qqeberha to Cape Town. The space, the luxury, and the
comfort make for the ultimate road trip car. What makes
the Carnival quite special is that it was designed to give it
quite a distinct identity, not just to be seen as a passenger or
cargo transporter. With that said, it really can carry a load of
people and all their luggage. It comes as a seven- or eightseater
and boasts a massive 1139 litres of boot space when
the third-row seats are folded flat.
There are four models starting with the EX. I drove the SX
Limited model, which is jam-packed with standard features,
which means you might not even need to go for the rangetopping
SXL model. This model boasts smart cruise control,
a wireless charging dock, around view monitor, a 12.3-inch
touchscreen infotainment system with Apple CarPlay and
Android Auto, seven USB ports, dual sunroofs, electric
sliding doors, heated and ventilated seats, a heated steering
wheel, and a host of advanced driving assist systems, to
name but a few. Basically, everything you would want from a
car on long a journey.
The Carnival is powered by a 2.2-litre turbodiesel engine
that puts out 148 kW and 440 Nm of torque. It is more than
punchy enough to get you past slow-moving traffic, even on
an incline. But what makes it even more impressive is its fuel
consumption. I got readings of around 7.7 litres/100 km, and
when you consider how big this car is and what it can carry,
you can’t deny how impressive that figure is.
The entire cabin is very well-insulated, so there is minimal
road or wind noise which means you don’t have to shout
when speaking to passengers sitting right at the back.
Whether you use this as a family car or one to transport
hotel guests, everyone will feel quite special.
This car has been so well thought out that even driving it
around the city in your day-to-day life is almost effortless,
regardless of its size. It’s refined enough to feel like you’re
driving an SUV. And that’s a very good thing. I was rather sad
to give it back.
The new Carnival comes with a five-year/unlimitedkilometre
warranty (including roadside assistance), as well
as a six-year/90 000 km maintenance plan.
73
PRICING STARTS FROM: R799 995
>
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

Motoring
OPEL ZAFIRA LIFE
The fourth generation Zafira Life
arrived in South Africa to tackle the
MPV segment and well, it wouldn’t
look out of place in a suburban
driveway or parked outside the front
of a fancy hotel. In fact, Opel gave
this some thought, and they offer two
derivatives that would suit each of
these scenarios.
The eight-seater Edition derivative
is targeted at families, empty
nesters, and adventurers. The
second and third seating rows each
contain three full-size seats on rails
with individual seat belts. It has
cloth upholstery, a multi-zone air
conditioner, 10 cupholders, 11 storage
compartments, manual sliding doors,
a 180-degree reverse camera, front
and rear park assist, cruise control
with speed limiter, and a seven-inch
infotainment system with Apple
CarPlay and Android Auto.
The Elegance model is a more
luxurious offering and is aimed
at those who want a more VIP
experience for their passengers,
whether they be hotel guests or
family members. The second-row
seating is reduced to two individual
seats with arm-rests and a VIP sliding
and folding table in the centre for a
truly reconfigurable lounge. It also
has leather upholstery, dual powered
sliding doors, a panoramic sunroof,
sun blinds for passengers, driver
and passenger heated seats with
massage functionality, a 10-speaker
audio system, adaptive cruise
control, heads up display, speed
sign recognition, and active lane
departure warning.
Both models are powered by a
2.0-litre, four-cylinder turbodiesel
engine that produces 110 kW and
370 Nm. Overall, performance is
satisfactory, but when loaded, it might
struggle a bit. It’s not as refined as
some of its competitors. That said, it
is a comfortable cruiser, and it is the
ideal vehicle for long road trips with
the family.
The fuel consumption is claimed
at just 6.3 litres/100 km but you’re
more likely to see a figure closer to
9 litres/100 km, or even higher, when
the car is fully loaded.
It's priced well considering what
you get for it, so although it might not
feel as refined or luxurious as some
of its rivals, keep in mind that those
rivals are more expensive, especially
when you consider the top-end
derivatives.
The Opel Zafira Life is sold with
a three-year/120 000 km warranty
and roadside assistance and a fiveyear/100
000 km service plan.
PRICING STARTS FROM: R749 900
74
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

HYUNDAI STARIA
Let’s start with the elephant in the room –
the Hyundai Staria’s futuristic looks! You are
either going to love it or absolutely hate it,
but there’s no denying that it stands out in a
crowd. Surprisingly, the Staria is taking the
place of the very bland and underwhelming
H1 bus. (It’s an example of those industrial
MPVs I mentioned at the beginning of the
article.) Yet, despite its dull demeanour, the
H1 was a very successful car for Hyundai.
But the Staria was designed to ensure that
people take notice of it. And take notice
they do. Driving one means you get many
stares and a few waves.
It also offers the most space out of this
group – up to 11 seats. I drove the nineseater,
but I kept it as an eight-seater
because the configuration is 3-3-3, and I
didn’t enjoy the seat up next to me while
driving. I also kept the third row of seats
down to access the 882 litres of boot space.
With the third row up, you’re only awarded
117 litres. But that’s the great thing about
MPVs: they’re so versatile, and that is the
point. If I needed to drive eight people
around, I could, but I didn’t have to, so I
rather utilised the extra space.
The interior is simple and clean, and you
sit very upright, which makes for awesome
visibility. You’re almost sitting directly over
the front axle, and the front windscreen
is rather large. The minimalist approach
to the cabin gives it a modern and
almost futuristic look and feel. There isn’t
even a traditional transmission lever. You
select your gear by pressing a button
instead. This makes for a very easy drive.
Press “D” and away you go.
The standard features list is aplenty,
and you don’t need to opt for the rangetopping
Luxury model for all the gimmicks
either (unless you want heated and
ventilated seats for your passengers, a
panoramic roof, a Bose sound system or
swivelling seat arrangement). The Elite
model still boasts USB ports for all three
rows, a wireless charging dock, Apple
CarPlay and Android Auto, heated and
ventilated driver and front passenger seat,
automatic sliding doors, and tailgate and
rear-window blinds.
On the safety front, the Staria excels with
a degree of semi-autonomous capability.
Families with young children will love
the safe exit assist (SEA) system, which
prevents the power sliding door from
opening when a rear-side vehicle is passing
by, and the rear occupant alert (ROA)
system, which uses a radar sensor to detect
and alert the driver if a rear passenger is
left in the car after exiting the vehicle. You
can also expect tyre-pressure sensors,
parking sensors, blind-spot monitoring, a
reverse camera with cross-traffic alert, and
six airbags.
On the engine front, the Staria is
powered by a 2.2-litre turbodiesel engine
that produces 130 kW and 430 Nm which
is perfectly punchy and fantastic on the
open road. It also has an impressive fuel
consumption. I managed a reading of just
under 8 litres/100 km even though the
manufacturer claims 8.7 litres/100 km.
It’s a little more on the expensive side,
but the Staria comes with an unbeatable
seven-year/200 000 km manufacturer
warranty, a six-year/90 000 km service plan
and a seven-year/150 000 km roadsideassistance
plan.
PRICING STARTS FROM: R794 900
>
75
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

Motoring
76
VOLKSWAGEN KOMBI
The Kombi is an icon in South Africa.
It has been around since 1950. Just
mention the singer David Kramer and
his red shoes and the Kombi comes
to mind. Like many South Africans, I
grew up with one. In fact, I learnt how
to drive in one.
The T6.1. generation Kombi was
launched in 2021 and sits just below
the Caravelle. The Caravelle is the
fancy one of the lot with a hefty price
tag of just under R1,3 million. But it
has business class seating and is
more of a people carrier in the sense
that hotels or businesses would
appreciate the luxury it offers.
The Kombi is more suited to
a family. It can seat up to eight
passengers with a boot that is large
enough for the luggage that goes
along with an extended road trip. It is
very spacious; I would be surprised
if you needed more space than what
it offers. Keeping up with trends, the
Kombi also offers the possibility living
your best “van life”. Many are being
converted by those who want to live
the nomadic lifestyle or who don’t
want to be tied down or dependent
on booking hotels. Van life has been
a thing for decades, but recently,
it has exploded in popularity due
to influencers punting this lifestyle
on their social media platforms.
The engine options include one 2.0
litre turbodiesel in three different
tunes. The more powerful the more
expensive, obviously, but all the
engines provide more than enough
punch. You would need to gauge
how loaded you expect your Kombi
to be to determine just how much
power you’ll need. If you’re planning
on towing a boat or a caravan, you
want to opt for the twin turbo engine
that produces 146 kW and 450 Nm of
torque. But if it is just the family you
plan on carrying, then the entry-level
engine will do just fine. Cross wind
alert is standard on all the models
which is welcomed in a car of this size.
The Kombi might be the more
“budget-friendly” option of the
Volkswagen transporters, but that
doesn’t mean the interior feels
budget in any way. It is also packed
with the standard features that would
suit family needs. There is a 6.5-inch
infotainment system (the top of the
range has a 10.25-inch display), a
reverse camera, cruise control, park
distance control, and two type-C
USB charging ports (adaptors are
available for standard USB devices),
plus a 12V socket. The only let down
is the fact that there are no charging
points or even storage or cup holders
for rear passengers. This could cause
issues when the tablets start dying or
the kids spill their drinks.
The Kombi has a threeyear/120
000 km warranty and a fiveyear/60
000 km maintenance plan.
PRICING STARTS FROM: R780 000
Images supplied. Prices correct at time of going to press.
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

Puzzles
Blockbusters
CROSSWORD 100
A martial
art
Spiked
club
Brown
Nought
More
dehydrated
Financial
institution
Capital of
Scotland
Jamaican
music
genre
Crib Pull Quiver
X (Roman
numeral)
Construct
No date
(abbr)
Weep
Clan's
symbol
Selfesteem
A sport
Small fruit
Horse
course
Without
haste
Epoch
Folklore
creature
Opera
solos
Portent
Music
medium
Region
Sosatie
Monaco
(internet
domain
name)
Small
lizard
Solidify
Reigned
Seed
cover
Withdraw
Trunk of
the body
As well
Just
Rusted
Cooked
slowly
Inuit
dwelling
Samarium
(symbol)
Commotion
From . . .
to riches
No
Born
(French)
Foot digit
Incorrect
Amazing
Hot spring
Upright
Salad
ingredient
Pure form
of honey
With
aloofness
Rooibos,
eg
Not out
Arid
Hammer
Small
movie role
Butter, eg
77
Sticky
substance
Selenium
(symbol)
Osmium
(symbol)
Foe
Town
in the
Western
Cape
Regret
Couples
Plead
Compete
Obtained
Begrudge
Make a
mistake
Antlered
animal
Drops on
a cool
surface
Getty\Gallo Images
Set of
tools, eg
Aged
Place
to play
Dysprosium
(symbol)
Inlets
A . . . of
sunshine
Modus
operandi
(abbr)
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

Puzzles
SUDOKU Easy
3 2 5 1
4 5 6 1
2 8 5
6 3 2 1 9 4
1 4 7 2
8 9 2 4 6 3
1 5 4
2 5 9 4
7 5 1 9
QUICK QUIZ
1. Egyptian pharaohs were buried with a certain type of fruit.
Was it an: a. Apple b. Fig c. Sweet melon d. Watermelon
2. In restaurants in Rome, carciofi alla giuda is a sought-after dish.
What is it? a. Deep-fried garlic b. Crumbed, deep-fried cauliflower
c. Grilled asparagus and cauliflower d. Deep-fried artichokes
SUDOKU Hard
78
5 9 4
6 3
1 3 9 2 8 6
1 8
8 5 1 7
2 1
6 2 4 5 8 1
2 7
5 6 2
2 5 9 1 8 6 4 3 7
8 7 6 3 5 4 9 1 2
1 3 4 9 2 7 8 6 5
6 2 1 4 7 8 5 9 3
4 8 3 5 9 1 2 7 6
5 9 7 2 6 3 1 4 8
9 6 2 7 4 5 3 8 1
3 4 8 6 1 2 7 5 9
7 1 5 8 3 9 6 2 4
sudoku
hard
3 2 5 4 1 8 9 6 7
9 4 8 7 5 6 2 3 1
7 6 1 2 3 9 4 8 5
6 7 3 8 2 5 1 9 4
5 1 4 9 6 3 7 2 8
8 9 2 1 4 7 6 5 3
1 5 9 6 8 4 3 7 2
2 3 7 5 9 1 8 4 6
4 8 6 3 7 2 5 1 9
sudoku
easy
3. Francesinha is a staple dish among the working class in Portugal.
What is it? a. A soup, thickened with cornflour b. A potato and mince
dish c. A sandwich in a rich sauce d. Polenta and chilli chicken
Answers: d. Watermelon. According to nationalgeographic.com, watermelon seeds and
artworks of watermelons were discovered in 4 000-year-old graves of Egyptian pharaohs,
including Tutankhamun’s.
d. Deep-fried artichoke. This Jewish dish has been consumed in Rome since the 16th
century. Visitors are often a little perplexed when it ends up on their plates. You eat the
whole artichoke. The outside leaves are golden-brown and taste like potato chips, while
the centre is soft and has a buttery taste.
c. Francesinha is a sandwich that originated in Porto. It usually has meat (like smoked
ham, steak, or herbed sausage) between two slices of bread, which is then smothered in a
sauce of melted cheese and tomato sauce with a bit of a bite.
crossword 100
M T Z D E B
K A R A T E R E G G A E
C N R I O N D
B E D T O T E M S K I
R R E R A O N O
G R A P E N K E B A B M C
A G A M A G E L R U L E D
C T O R S O F A I R N
R E T I R E C R A G S I
T O E A S T O N I S H I N G
W R O N G M O R A L M E L
A T E A D R Y C A M E O
I C I L Y G O O S E E O
K N Y S N A D E P L O R E
E V I E R E S E N T
U R G E D E E R D E W
O L D R A Y M O
K I T Y A R D B A Y S
Images: Getty Images/ Gallo Images. Sources: Forbes.com; travelchannel.com; National Trust For Scotland
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022

Quality
Assured
THE AA RECOMMENDS
EASTERN CAPE
Margate Place Guesthouse
Superior
+27 (0) 41 583 5799
mplace@mweb.co.za
www.margateplace.co.za
5 Margate St, Gqeberha
See More Guesthouse
Superior
+27 (0) 43 735 1070
info@see-more.co.za
www.see-more.co.za
14 Montrose Avenue, Bunkers
Hill, East London
26 on Chamberlain Guesthouse
Superior
+27 (0) 45 838 4759
andrew.tristan@telkomsa.net
www.26onchamberlain.co.za
26 Chamberlain St, Top Town,
Komani
Africanos Country Estate
Superior
+27 (0) 42 233 0030
info@africanos.co.za
www.africanos.co.za
Corner of Zuurberg Rd and
R336, Addo
Green Park Lodge
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 47 150 0020
bookings@greenparklodge.co.za
www.greenparklodge.co.za
3 Park Rd, Mthatha
The Paxton Hotel
Superior
+27 (0) 41 585 9655
accounts@paxton.co.za
www.paxton.co.za
Corner Beach and Carnarvon
Place, Humerail, Gqeberha
AA
Accommodation
Time for a getaway? Make planning your next trip a breeze
by booking your accommodation at an AA Quality Assured
establishment. Here is a list of options nationwide.
Aloe Grove Guest Farm
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 45 839 5910
aloegrove@awe.co.za
www.aloegrove.co.za
Aloe Grove Farm, Komani
Lupus Den Country House
Superior
+27 (0) 42 234 0447
lupusden@srvalley.co.za
www.lupusden.co.za
Eron Rd, Sunland
Chicane B&B
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 42 234 0385
puttergill@ecweb.co.za
www.chicane-addo.co.za
Chicane Farm, Addo
The Quarry Lake Inn
Superior
+27 (0) 43 707 5400
sueg@quarrylakeinn.co.za
www.quarrylakeinn.co.za
Quartzite Drive, The Quarry,
East London
Die Kraaltjie Guesthouse And
Caravan Park
Recommended
+27 (0) 82 498 1045
vgreunen@lantic.net
www.diekraaltjie.co.za
Off R62 (between Gqeberha
and George), Joubertina
Marina Martinique B&B
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 42 292 0000
info@mmbnb.co.za
www.mmbnb.co.za
972 Tobago Crescent,
Jeffreys Bay
FREE STATE
Arcadia Guesthouse and
Restaurant
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 82 310 7879 /
082 940 0715
arcadia@act.co.za
www.arcadiakroonstad.co.za
38 Kraalkop, Kroonstad
The Clarens Country House
Superior
+27 (0) 58 256 1978
clarensaccom@gmail.com
www.theclarenscountryhouse.
com
The Clarens Golf & Trout Estate,
Clarens
Siesta Guesthouse & Wedding
Venue
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 79 382 4900
info@siestaguesthouse.co.za
www.siestaguesthouse.co.za
Farm Merrydale, Off R26,
Frankfort
Au Jardin Guesthouse
Superior
+27 (0) 57 388 2897
info@aujardin.co.za
www.aujardin.co.za
2 Hecate St, Riebeeckstad,
Welkom
House Beautiful
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 83 632 2600
elshaddai@gox.co.za
www.housebeautiful.co.za
341 Kriek St, Rosendal
Dias Guesthouse
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 51 436-6225
info@diasgh.co.za
www.diasgh.co.za
14 Dias Crescent, Dan Pienaar,
Bloemfontein
GAUTENG
InnJoy Boutique Hotel
Superior
+27 (0) 12 654 9998
book@innjoy.co.za
www.innjoy.co.za
1033 Shirley Rd, Eldoraigne,
Centurion
Birch Tree Cottage B&B
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 11 462 5734
info@birchtreecottage.co.za
www.birchtreecottage.co.za
20 Christo Avenue, Olivedale,
Randburg
Little Rock Accommodation
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 11 764 4623
littlerock@eaglemail.co.za
www.littlerockaccom.co.za
14 President Rd, Princess,
Roodepoort
Arcadia Guesthouse
and Restaurant in
Kroonstad,
Free State
>
79
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

Quality
Assured
80
Attache Guest Lodge and
Health & Beauty Spa
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 11 314 1591
barryc@attachelodge.co.za
www.attachelodge.co.za
11 Olifantsfontein Rd, Glen
Austin, Midrand
Acacia House Executive Suite
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 82 892 1364
info@acaciahousejhb.co.za
www.acaciahousejhb.co.za
74 Sunnyway, Kelvin, Sandton
Villa Lugano Guesthouse
Superior
+27 (0) 11 432 2320
info@villalugano.co.za
www.villalugano.co.za
100 The BRds St, Mulbarton,
Johannesburg
Somabula Nature Reserve
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 82 550 1892
info@somabula.co.za
www.somabula.co.za
Off R515, Cullinan
Klip River Country Estate
Superior
+27 (0) 82 901 0289
info@krce.co.za
www.klipriverguesthouse.co.za
2 McKay Estates, Donald Rd,
Vereeniging
Joburg Luxury Suites
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 11 477 2291
anne@joburgluxurysuites.com
www.joburgluxurysuites.com
74 Washington Drive, Northcliff
Clubview Guesthouse
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 78 622 9326
admin@clubview.co.za
www.clubview.co.za
180 London Avenue, Clubview,
Centurion
LIMPOPO
ATKV Klein Kariba Holiday
Resort
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 14 736 9800
riaanm@atkv.org.za
www.klein-kariba.co.za
R101, off old Nylstroom Rd
Warmbaths (Bela-Bela)
Tshukudu Game Lodge
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 15 793 2476
accounts@tshukudulodge.co.za
www.tshukudulodge.co.za
Farm Paris, Hoedspruit
Villa Grande Lodge
Recommended
+27 (0) 15 516 1161
villag@mweb.co.za
www.villag.co.za
104 Grobler St, Louis Trichardt
Siviti
New
+27 (0) 82 579 4849
otto@gerntholtz.com
Avoca Rd, Thornybush Nature
Reserve, Hoedspruit
Tzaneen Country Lodge
Highly Recommended /
Superior
+27 (0) 15 304 3290
adri@tznlodge.co.za
www. tznlodge.co.za
On R71, Tarentaalrand, Tzaneen
Palm Haven Guesthouse
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 83 226 8041
palmhaven@xpress.co.za
www.palmhaven.co
312 Garooskraal, Louis Trichardt
Golden Pillow
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 15 295 2970
adele@goldenpillow.co.za
www.goldenpillow.co.za
57 Thabo Mbeki St, Polokwane
Calderwood
Hall Guesthouse
in Boston,
KwaZulu-Natal
Cheerio Trout Fishing and
Holiday Resort
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 83 272 0353
cheerio@worldonline.co.za
www.cheerio.co.za
Cheerio Farm, L 4.1 Rd
730, Magoebaskloof
MPUMALANGA
The Highlander Hotel
New
132540039/0619186949
john.woodnutt@tiscali.co.za
www.thehighlanderhotel.co.za
Corner Lyon Cachet and
Bosman St, Dullstroom
Welgelegen Manor
Superior
+27 (0) 83 281 1706
connie@welgelegenmanor.co.za
www.welgelegenmanor.co.za
Farm Rietbult, Ptn C, Balfour
Rd, Balfour
Waterfront Guesthouse
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 17 843 2632
info@waterfrontcarolina.co.za
waterfrontcarolina.co.za
89 Hamman St, Carolina
De Voetpadkloof Resort
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 13 245 8500
bestuurder@devoetpadkloof.
co.za
www.devoetpadkloof.co.za
Farm 1, Toevlugt 269,
Middelburg
Bluegum Country Lodge
Highly Recommended
+ 27 (0) 17 647 5970
book@bluegumcountrylodge.
co.za
www.bluegumcountrylodge.
co.za
7 van Heerden Avenue, Bethal
Die Groen Koei Guesthouse
Recommended
+27 (0) 17 647 5970
info@diegroenkoei.co.za
www.diegroenkoei.co.za
34 Moses Kotane St, Bethal
Appledew Guesthouse
Superior
+27 (0) 17 719 2543
info@appledew.co.za
www.appledew.co.za
9 Leyds St, Standerton
NORTH WEST
Villa Maria Guest Lodge
Superior
+27 (0) 18 468 5214
mariaviljoen@wol.co.za
www.villamaria.co.za
11 Platan Avenue, Flamwood,
Klerksdorp
Oudrift Riverside Lodge
Superior
+27 (0) 18 297 4939
oudriftlodge@mweb.co.za
www.oudrift.co.za
Thabo Mbeki Drive,
Potchefstroom
Intaba Thulile
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 14 577 2644
info@intabathulile.co.za
www.intabathulile.co.za
Boschfontein farm, Magaliesburg
Ponciana Guesthouse
Superior
+27 (0) 82 518 8853
guesthouseponciana@gmail.com
www.guesthouseponciana.co.za
68 Cannon Cres,
Hartbeespoort Dam
Morokolo Safari Lodge
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 71 279 1110
management@morokolo.com
www.morokolo.com
19 Black Rhino Game Reserve,
Pilanesberg National Park
NORTHERN CAPE
Rolbos
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 27 341 1666
joey@rolbos.co.za
www.rolbos.co.za
15 Paul Kruger St, Calvinia
Jan Kemp Hotel
Recommended
+27 (0) 53 456 1621
alberta.e@mweb.co.za
www.jankempdorphotel.co.za
22 DF Malan St, Jan Kempdorp
Browns Manor
Superior
+27 (0) 54 338 0384
stephen@brownsmanor.co.za
www.brownsmanor.co.za
Olifanthoek Rd N14, Upington

THE AA RECOMMENDS
Images supplied
Executive Self Catering Unit
Recommended
+27 (0) 84 800 8047
dmnel@mweb.co.za
22 Park Rd, Kimberley
WESTERN CAPE
Gable Manor
Superior
+27 (0) 21 876 3833
info@gablemanor.com
www.gablemanor.com
4 Malherbe St, Franschhoek
Buffelsfontein Game Lodge
Recommended
+27 (0) 22 451 2824
info@buffelsfontein.co.za
www.buffelsfontein.co.za
Buffelsfontein Farm, R27 West
Coast Rd, Darling
Thyme Wellness Spa &
Guesthouse
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 21 911 3791
relax@thymespa.co.za
www.thymespa.co.za
19 AP Burger Ave, Plattekloof 1,
Cape Town
La Galiniere Guest Cottages
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 21 876 2579
info@lagaliniere.co.za
www.lagaliniere.co.za
Main Rd, Franschhoek
Malagas Hotel
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 28 542 1049
mmh@telkomsa.net
www.malagashotel.co.za
153 Main Rd, Malagas,
Swellendam
Monte Video Guesthouse -
Conference and Function Venue
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 21 873 4765
info@montevideo.co.za
www.montevideo.co.za
Church St, Bainskloof Rd,
Wellington
Excellent Guesthouse
Highly Recommended
745567383
lizelleloots10@gmail.com
www.excellentguesthouse.co.za
1 Helderberg St, Chrismar, Cape
Town
Mt Bijoux Preferred
Accommodation
Superior
+27 (0) 21 554 1150
info@mtbijoux.co.za
www.mtbijoux.co.za
4 Sir David Baird Drive,
Bloubergstrand, Cape Town
The Golden Grape
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 82 890 4185
info@goldengrape.co.za
www.thegoldengrape.co.za
5 Palomino Way, Lutzville
The Royal Hotel
Superior
+27 (0) 22 448 1378
gm@royalinriebeek.com
www.royalinriebeek.com
33 Main St, Riebeek Kasteel
Gaikou Lodge
Superior
+27 (0) 28 514 1133
manager@gaikoulodge.co.za
www.gaikoulodge.co.za
69 Berg St, Swellendam
La Terra de Luc
Superior
+27 (0) 21 876-2416
lois@laviedeluc.com
www.laterradeluc.co.za
Main Rd, Franschhoek
Houghton View Guesthouse
New
+ 27 (0) 74 865 5554
manager@houghtonview.com
houghtonview.com
15 Houghton Rd, Camps Bay
Cape Town
Somabula
Nature
Reserve near
Cullinan,
Gauteng
Rondekuil Estates
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 21 972 1031
richard@rondekuil.co.za
www.rondekuil.co.za
Malanshoogte Rd, Durbanville
Cape Town
Erica B&B and Self-Catering
Recommended
+27 (0) 44 873 2442
ericabb@mweb.co.za
www.gardenroute.co.za/george/
erica
33 Erica Rd, George
KWAZULU-NATAL
Amble Inn Guesthouse and
Conference Centre
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 35 792 4693
info@ambleinn.co.za
www.amble-inn.co.za
93 Old Main Rd, Empangeni
Calderwood Hall Guesthouse
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 33 997 1926
info@calderwood.co.za
www.calderwood.co.za
Off R617, Boston
Minivillas
Recommended
+27 (0) 32 551 1277
minivillas@mweb.co.za
www.minivillas.co.za
Blythedale Beach
19 The Gates
Superior
+27 (0) 82 332 2000
jinnya@mweb.co.za
19 The Gates, College Rd, Hilton
Umhambi Lodge
Highly Recommended
accounts@umhambilodge.co.za
www.umhambilodge.co.za
63 Breamhill St, Meerensee,
Richards Bay
Ocean Hideaway B&B
Superior
+27 (0) 31 904 1994
denise@ilangatech.com
www.oceanhideaway.co.za
337 Ipahla Rd, Amanzimtoti
Pearly Shells
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 39 976 2065
caroln@meyersteel.co.za
www.pearly-shells.co.za
180 Williamson St, Scottburgh
The Margate Hotel
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 39 312 1410
suzette@margatehotel.co.za
www.margatehotel.co.za
Lot 3139, Marine Drive, Margate
Malachite Manor
Superior
+27 (0) 83 645 2026
admin@malachitemanor.co.za
www.malachitemanor.co.za
Drakensberg Gardens Rd,
Underberg
Umzolozolo Lodge
Superior
+27 (0) 31 826 2002
tracey@umzolozolo.com
www.umzolozolo.com
Nambiti Conservancy,
Ladysmith (Emnambithi)
Marlicht Holiday Resort
Highly Recommended
+27 (0) 39 312 1052
admin@marlicht.co.za
www.marlicht.co.za
12 Forest Rd, Margate
Umdlalo Lodge & Zizi's
Restaurant
Superior
+27 (0) 39 695 0224
rishay@umdlalolodge.co.za
www.umdlalolodge.co.za
5 Rethman Drive, Umtentweni,
Port Shepstone
All these properties
can be booked at
qa.aatravel.co.za/home.
81
SPRING 2022 | AA Traveller

Last word
Just a kombi,
a cooler box, and
kilometres on the open road
BY GERDA ENGELBRECHT
82
It didn't happen overnight. The seed
for buying a motorhome was planted
when I was still just knee-high. The
constant bickering between my three
siblings and I about who should get
a window seat was finally brought to
an end when my dad drove up to our
house in a cream-coloured Kombi.
“There, now you each get a window
seat,” he triumphantly declared. My
two brothers took the bench in the
front, right behind the driver and
front passenger seats, and my sister
and I took the one in the back.
We loved that kombi. During school
term, it was large enough to swallow
all our friends on our way to sport
or choir practice or the movies, and
during the holidays, we could load it
up for the long road to the Kruger.
The massive family tent, bought so
that the kombi could fit perfectly
under the one flap, filled the whole
space between the two back benches.
We didn’t have any legroom, but if we
rolled out our sleeping bags, we could
pretend that we were half-sitting, halflying
down on a double bed. Between
my parents’ seats there was a space big
enough to fit my mom’s enamel picnic
basket. From there she would hand us
thick slices of bread with biltong (bought
at Beaufort West or the Three Sisters)
and coffee in tin mugs were passed to
us in the back as we were driving.
When my father retired, he swopped
the Kombi for his dream vehicle, a
VW Camper he tracked down in the
newspaper’s classified section. He
and my mom travelled throughout
the country in that Camper for years.
I was already at university when my
dad would show up at my residence
in the Camper and take me on a
picnic next to the Eerste River, where
he could brew coffee on the small
stove in the Camper himself.
Motorhome travel is popular
worldwide. The Americans call it
RV’s, short for “recreational vehicles”,
and they were likely the first ones
who came up with this concept. On
21 Augusts 1915, the Conklin family
from Huntington, New York, left for
their destination in San Francisco
in their “Gypsy Van”. According to
the Smithsonian Museum's website,
this massive 25-foot (almost 7 m),
8-ton motorhome was equipped with
every luxury imaginable: an electric
generator, fully functional kitchen,
beds, a collapsible table and chairs,
comfortable couches with throw
pillows, and even a rooftop garden.
This double decker was so loaded that
it looked like it would topple over at any
minute. “This transport was a marvel of
technology and chutzpah.” At the time,
the media coverage on this motorhome
was so wide spread that for decades
it was used at the blueprint on which
Americans based their motorhomes.
In the 1960s, the writer John
Steinbeck tried to cure this writer’s
block by having a green Ford converted
into a motorhome. He named it
Rocinante, after the horse in Don
Quixote, and with his giant poodle,
Charley, he travelled through America.
This journey forms the backdrop
of his book Travels With Charley: In
Search of the Real America (1962).
I suspect the first official motorhome
in South Africa was the VW Autovilla,
a combination of a VW bus and a
Jurgens motorhome (if I understand
it correctly), which was manufactured
locally in the 1970s. Since Covid
lockdowns, motorhomes have
experienced a resurgence in popularity.
On YouTube and Instagram, there
are numerous examples of young
people who give up their flats to live,
work, and travel in motorhomes.
It’s a form of travel my sister and I
dream about, and we longingly stared
at a delivery vehicle when we visited
a Toyota dealership the other day.
“You don’t need all of these fancy
things,” is my dad’s response. Just
chuck a cooler box and mattress
in the back of your kombi, and
you're good to go. “Even a panel van
could do the trick,” he murmurs.
He’s right: you don’t need much to
enjoy a holiday. You just need a vehicle
in which you can stretch your legs,
something that will keep your tjoppies
cold, and good music. Coffee out of a
tin mug and thick slices of bread with
biltong would be a bonus.
Illustration: Lynne Fraser
AA Traveller | SPRING 2022