GG_N50_FR

PAGES 117-130 

OUR WINTER 

SELECTIONS: 

CZECH REPUBLIC, 

FRANCE, GERMANY, 

ITALY & SOUTH AFRICA 

L 19045 - 50 - F: 7,95 € - RD 

WINTER 2022 

Laurent Vaillant (left), cellar 

master at Champagne 

Lombard, and Thomas 

Lombard tasting in the winery. 

CHAMPAGNE 

THOMAS LOMBARD: 

GRANDS CRUS OFFER 

CONSISTENT QUALITY FRUIT

Enter your wines now: en-vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com

CONTENTS 

COLUMNS / REPORTS 

30 

7 

News 

10 

Focus 

17 Champagne Grands 

Crus under scrutiny 

15 

Rare bottle 

Champagne Maurice 

Vesselle 

74 

Vineyards 

South Africa: How the 

Breede River Valley tells 

its story through wine 

tourism 

84 

Grapes 

Heading off for Portugal 

and its native red grape 

varieties 

114 

Stars & wine 

Tim Burton: 

from gothic fantasy to 

Epicurean reality 

116 

Contact details 

117 

Winter selection 2022 

30 

Future 

Cahors, fully committed 

to the 21 st century 

93 

Focus 

García Carrión, blazing 

a path of its own 

64 

42 

Travel 

Lirac, Tavel & 

Châteauneuf-Du-Pape – 

Diamonds in the rough 

54 

Organic 

Emilia-Romagna and 

Umbria seen through 

the lens of sustainability 

98 

Discovery 

Médoc Crus artisans in 

the limelight 

104 

Grape 

Nebbiolo, the prince 

of grape varieties in 

north-west Italy 

74 

64 

Discovery 

The Czech Republic: 

Great wines from 

a small country 

84 

Gilbert & Gaillard next issue 

Spring 2023 

COVER: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES 

WINTER 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

3

EDITORIAL 

FRANÇOIS GILBERT - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

GREETINGS FROM NEBBIOLO 

Talking about Italian grape varieties is in some 

ways like a never-ending litany, such is their 

number in the winegrowing cradle of Western 

Europe. But Nebbiolo is not just another grape 

variety, it undeniably holds a special place. Mainly 

grown in Piedmont, it has stoked the global acclaim 

of Barolo – its single varietal epitome – along 

with Barbaresco, whose reputation continues to 

gain traction. It requires well-drained and very 

poor limestone soils to fully express its potential, 

and it also needs plentiful sunshine as it ripens 

late. Harvesting often occurs in the autumn and 

is sometimes carried out in the mist – or nebbia 

in Italian – hence its name. A fairly fragile grape 

variety, it calls for impeccable vineyard management 

and winemaking techniques in order to 

scale the heights of quality. Only then does it yield 

wines that combine incredible power, complexity 

and finesse, all of which is coupled with outstanding 

ageability promoted by its tannins and 

marked acidity. There is no doubt that Nebbiolo 

has entered Italy’s varietal hall of fame, alongside 

the heavyweights that are Sangiovese, Barbera and 

Nero d’Avola. And in a country that had more than 

a thousand native grape varieties before the phylloxera 

crisis, that is no mean feat! 

4 WINTER 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

EDITORIAL 

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

BREEDE RIVER VALLEY: 

A PARADISE FOR WINE TOURISM 

Less well known than Stellenbosch or Franschhoek, 

this lush region located just two hours 

from Cape Town is crossed by the Breede River and 

its tributaries and bordered by the majestic Langeberg 

Mountains, which separate it from the adjacent 

semi-desert region of Klein Karoo. The Breede River 

Valley is almost 130 kilometres long and in fact 

straddles three wine regions: Worcester, Robertson 

and Breedekloof. This makes it the Western Cape’s 

largest producer region, as the three areas account 

for about a third of the country’s vineyards and 

produce almost 40% of its wine. The region also runs 

the gamut in terms of vineyards, from small characterful 

wineries to larger co-operatives. The most 

common wines are made from vineyards along the 

valley floor, whereas the higher-end offerings originate 

in vineyards set in the foothills of the mountains 

surrounding the valley. 

The region is best known for producing rich, fruity 

red wines because the soils have extremely high 

limestone content, lending the wines minerality, 

depth and aromatic complexity. Merlot and 

Cabernet Sauvignon are particularly widespread 

here, though a few local wineries have also started to 

produce sparkling wines made from the two legendary 

grape varieties that are Chardonnay and Pinot 

Noir. But more than this, the Breede River Valley is 

a fantastic setting that offers myriad tourist, recreational, 

gastronomic and historical activities, whilst 

also proving to be a true paradise for wine. 


5

EDITORIAL 

SYLVAIN PATARD - EDITOR IN CHIEF 

CHAMPAGNE GRAND CRU: 

THE STAMP OF TERROIR 

Champagne’s hierarchy in terms of ‘crus’ and 

thus terroir is not a self-evident concept in this 

prestigious wine region, which is home to just one 

appellation and produces wines that have always 

been exported worldwide. Yet such a hierarchy does 

exist – the Grands Crus are Champagne’s elite. They 

are single-growth and sometimes even single-vineyard 

wines harvested from 4,000 of the region’s 

34,300 bearing hectares. This equates in total to 

about 11% of volumes. Their boundaries embrace just 

17 localities out of the 319 that form the Champagne 

region and only cover the Montagne de Reims and 

the Côte des Blancs in Marne. This is no accident. The 

two areas have the best vineyard sites with chalky 

sub-soils that allow the vines to put down deep roots 

and retain water if necessary. And if you factor in the 

incline and good aspects, the result is the best configuration 

for producing fine wines, a prerequisite – 

over time – for producing top Champagnes. 

Unlike the prestige labels from the major brands, 

which are generally based more on the concept of 

blending, Grands Crus Champagnes tend to be 

produced by winegrowers. They often own vineyards 

in a single locality and are therefore compelled to 

focus on the statement as a point of difference. The 

category is in a way a simple means of rediscovering 

Champagne through a traditional lens by venturing 

out to meet the passionate men and women who 

make it. 


NEWS 

PUBS_CUVEES_G&G_N°50_OK_Mise en page 1 08/12/2022 10:26 

COLLET: THE TENTH CHEF’S BOOK AWARD 

Since its inception in 

2013, the accolade 

has awarded chefs who, 

by publishing a book, 

have showcased and 

shared their gourmet 

food expertise. Every 

year, a panel of professionals 

scrutinises the 

editorial content, the 

quality of the illustrations, the uniqueness of the theme, the graphics 

and production quality of the books. For the 10th anniversary event, 

double Michelin star chef Jean Sulpice from the Auberge du Père Bise 

in Talloires, was selected for his book ‘Cake’, published by Flammarion. 

He suggests readers explore the many facets of cake batter to make 

everything, except cakes! Well, at least not in their usual form. They 

range from savoury cakes, like steamed cake with lovage and hazelnut, 

morel mushroom and comté cheese crouton cake, cauliflower and curry 

stuffed cake, oyster and rye cake and snail croquette cake to sweet cakes, 

like biscuit cake, passion fruit puff pastry tart, jasmine and chocolate 

roll cake, Savoy blueberry pancake and rum and banana cocktail cake. 

The Auberge du Père Bise provides Jean Sulpice with the privilege 

of being able to express the multiple facets of Savoy beyond just the 

primary sensations. He has one unwavering goal and that is to reveal the 

beauty and variety afforded by the seasons on the plate. This undying 

passion for nature compels him to be attentive and sensitive to its mood 

swings, movements and murmurs at all times. 

Cake – Flammarion – 176 pages - €29.90 

WOMEN POWER IN CHAMPAGNE 

Long the preserve of men, as with many 

jobs in all sorts of industries, the role of 

cellar master (mistress?) is becoming increasingly 

female-driven. Thankfully. Change is 

afoot, mentalities are evolving and the talent 

shown by women in this discipline and many 

others has been illustrated again and again. 

Gabrielle Malagu, a vine and wine science 

graduate with a national diploma in winemaking 

from Dijon, has become the latest 

female cellar master at Maison Gosset. She joined the company in 

2017 as an assistant to Odilon de Varaine, the house’s cellar master and 

deputy director. She will continue to hone her skills with him in the 

cellar and for official winery representations. Kudos to Gabrielle! 

@lephotographedudimanche 

PODERI BIXIO: 

WHEN THE PAST FOCUSES 

ON THE FUTURE 

PORTRAIT: The roots of the Bixio family date back two 

centuries. Nino Bixio was an Italian general, patriot 

and politician, and one of the most prominent gures 

in the Italian unication. General Garibaldi wanted 

Bixio by his side in the famous ‘Spedizione dei Mille’ – 

or Expedition of the Thousand Soldiers – to unify Italy 

under one lag. In 1866, he helmed the 7ª Brigade in the 

battle of Custoza, in the province of Verona, and during 

the war fell in love with a lady from Verona. That love 

would be the start of the Veronese branch of the Bixio 

family. The son was named Alfonso but it was the 

grandfather Ottavio who founded the winery in 1969, 

100 years after the rst Bixio trod on Veneto soils. Ten 

years later, Emilio Bixio, the eldest son, became 

winemaker and harvested his rst grapes the same 

year, paving the way for his rst company, Fratelli Bixio. 

Boasting over 50 years’ experience in the wine business, 

we can offer the most prestigious wines from our 

region, ranging from Soave to Valpolicella and the 

Arcole DOC, all of them full-lavoured, majestic wines. 

More recently, we have also invested in the more 

southerly region of Molise, where we produce fragrant, 

crisp wines in a scenic location near the sea. To this day, 

Bixio remains proud of its roots. 

Tel.: +39 045 610 4369 

E-mail: bixiopoderi@gmail.com 

Website: http://www.bixiopoderi.it/ 


7

NEWS 

20° NORD 20°SUD, OR DEVELOPING A VOCATION 

FOR BEAN TO BAR 

It wasn’t that long ago that Mélanie Paulau turned her back on chocolate, finding it often too fatty, too sweet, or sometimes both. 

visit to the Paris chocolate exhibition proved to be her eureka moment and 

A opened up a future for her as a Bean to Bar chocolate maker with a natural, 

delicious and meaningful chocolate. Since then, cocoa has been a part of her life! 

She trained with seasoned chocolate makers before launching 20°Nord 20°Sud 

in order to introduce the bean to bar concept to a wide audience. 

The young brand recently released a limited edition gift box featuring two 

outstanding chocolate bars honouring the 2018 and 2020 vintages of Chuao. 

The Chuao cocoa bean is the most famous in the world and is grown in 

Venezuela by passionate, committed producers. It is the only cocoa sold with a 

certificate of origin for traceability. It owes its character to the unique location 

of the plantation which boasts an ideal micro-climate combining humidity and 

sunshine, rich soils and a lush environment. For its dark chocolate, the brand 

only adds one ingredient to the cocoa – sugar, its natural flavour enhancer. 

This is the incredible chocolate we tasted for you, pairing it with a remarkable 

Banyuls Grand Cru. 

MÉLANIE PAULAU, THE BRAND’S FOUNDER 

2018 Chuao 

Dry and raw yet also elegant with a velvety 

sensation and delicate spiciness. An ethereal 

style with lots of class. 

2020 Chuao 

Racy and delicate with a fine bitterness and 

a delicious peppery note on the finish with 

remarkable length. 

2008 Banyuls Grand Cru Président Henry Vidal (94/100 Gilbert & Gaillard) 

Mahogany colour with bricking. Intense nose recalling tobacco and exotic wood with very elegant aromatics. The attack 

on the palate is powerful with chiselled aromas and persistent caramel tones to finish. Will continue to mature. With 

these outstanding cocoas, it should be savoured fairly chilled to keep the right balance. This is one experience not to 

be missed because it puts sheer enjoyment at its core. 

This Banyuls is a sun-kissed wine originating in the far South of France, between the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean, 

on schist soils. The vineyards grow on terraces that rise up from the coast to the valley floors inland. 

This Grand Cru – of a similarly superior quality to the cocoa – is made from Grenache noir grapes entirely harvested 

when overripe. The fruit is fortified then soaked for 20 days followed by 12 months’ maturation in medium-sized 

barrels and demi-muids before maturing in the bottle in the underground cellar. Expect the unexpected when two 

products grown 7,500 km apart finally meet! 

https://20nord20sud.com/fr/ • https://www.terresdestempliers.fr/fr 


FOUR 

WINEMAKERS 

FOR WINTER 

2022 

CHÂTEAU CAMBON 

LA PELOUSE 

2015 

HAUT-MÉDOC 

23,90€ 

YANNICK ARDOUIN 

CAVAVIN ISTRES 

38, Chemin du bord de Crau 

13800 ISTRES 

+33 4 42 47 12 37 

istres@cavavin.fr 

CHAMPAGNE 

GOSSET 

Grand Blanc de Blancs 

CHAMPAGNE 

54,90€ 

PASCAL CHAUDOY 

CAVAVIN LES SABLES D’OLONNE 

16, rue Bisson 

85100 Les Sables d’Olonne 

+33 2 51 23 62 68 

lessables@cavavin.fr 

FREY 

SOHLER 

CRÉMANT D’ALSACE 

11,20€ 

MARC GACHET 

CAVAVIN PERTUIS 

ZAC St-Martin, Route d’Aix, Les Bertranes 

40100 DAX 

+33 4 90 68 17 58 

pertuis@cavavin.fr 

DOMAINE MILLET 

Vaucoupin 

2021 

CHABLIS PREMIER CRU 

28,55€ 

CARINE DUBOSPERTUS 

CAVAVIN NOISY LE SEC 

79, rue Jean Jaurès 

93130 Noisy le Sec 

+33 1 48 43 44 43 

noisylesec@cavavin.fr 

CAVAVIN_GG50_PAGE_7.indd 1 29/11/2022 11:27:01 

7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France 

Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88 

Editorial Directors: 

François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard 

Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard 

Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe 

Gaillard, Sylvain Patard, François Bezuidenhout, 

Olivier Delorme, Matthieu Gaillard, James Turnbull 

Editorial staff: Michèle Huyard 

Contributors to this issue: Jean-Paul Burias, 

Alain Echalier, Isabelle Escande, Florian Glémot 

DipWSET, Daniel , Francesco Saverio 

Russo, Sylvain Patard, Samarie Smith-Meletiou 

DipWSET, Frank Rousseau 

Translation: Sharon Nagel, Marika Quarti 

Sales and Marketing Director: 

Etienne Gaillard : +33 6 30 97 87 26 

etienne@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising France: 

Bordeaux - Charentes: Frédéric Comet: 

+33 6 27 58 47 06 - fcomet@gilbertgaillard.com 

Corsica - Languedoc - Provence - Rhône Valley: 

Nicolas Sanseigne: +33 6 46 86 80 01 - 

nsanseigne@gilbertgaillard.com 

Jura - Loire Valley - Savoy - South West - 

Roussillon: Caroline Gilbert: +33 6 84 92 57 61 - 

caroline@gilbertgaillard.com 

Alsace -Beaujolais - Burgundy - Champagne: 

Lucie Jeandel: +33 6 77 72 16 04 - 

ljeandel@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Italy: Sandra Sirvente: 

(+33) 7 63 87 13 13 - ssirvente@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Spain, Portugal: Thibault Leray: 

(+33) 6 84 01 57 24 - tleray@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Central and Eastern Europe: 

Philippe Ricros: +33 7 61 76 01 22 - 

pricros@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Latam : Vivien Morvan 

+33 7 61 76 01 02 – vmorvan@gilbertgaillard.com 

Marketing coordinator: Lucie Le Gall: +33 7 87 07 78 76 

l.legall@gilbertgaillard.com 

Production: Isabelle Méjean-Plé - Tapioka Conseil: 

+33 6 77 12 77 98 - tapiokaconseil@gmail.com 

Lay-out: Lise Delattre - Com l’Hirondelle: +33 9 81 47 75 25 

Murielle Guégan - Impactea Concept: +33 6 59 32 08 65 

Printed in Spain: Matthieu Battini - Carré Collé: 

+33 6 87 27 12 65 

Gilbert & Gaillard Tasting South-Africa: 

Petru Venter, General Manager: +27 82 787 1784 - 

petru@gilbertgaillard.com 

Olivier Duroy, Area Manager: +27 72 389 1083 - 

oduroy@gilbertgaillard.com 

Matthieu Gaillard, Brand Ambassador: +27 66 429 9219 

International Distribution: Pineapple Media Ltd - 

http://www.pineapple-media.com 

Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with a capital of 35,500 euros • Head Office: 7 parc des Fontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal representative and Editorial 

director: Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: Fourth quarter 2022 • Legal publication n° pending •ISSN 2110-6762 • Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any form 

is expressly prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articles are given for information only and have no publicity purpose. 


9

17 CHAMPAGNE GRANDS CRUS 

UNDER SCRUTINY 

BY ALAIN ECHALIER 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES 

© PASCAL MAILLET-CONTOZ 

What credit should be given to the Grand Cru statement in Champagne? And 

where does it stem from? We reveal all about its history, definition and the nuances 

between these 17 jewels in Champagne’s crown, featuring interviews of ten 

producers located in the relevant villages. 

A VIEW OF THE VINEYARDS IN AVIZE IN JUNE 


CHAMPAGNE 

TERROIR 

A MELODIC LINNET SINGING IN THE VINEYARDS AT CHAMPAGNE PAUL DÉTHUNE 

What does the word ‘Cru’ mean in the wine sphere? This is a question I am 

often asked by my friends when they visit France. The dictionary defines 

it as “a group of land considered from the perspective of the specific crop grown 

there”. And the first example given is not for wine, but for “French butter from 

Normandy or Brittany”, which has a distinctive flavour, due to its ‘cru’ or growth. 

The concept therefore goes well beyond wine and refers to the original birthplace 

of any product linked to gastronomy. In fact, its etymology alludes to ‘growth’. So, 

any product from a good ‘growth’ or ‘cru’ is one that grows on a renowned ‘terroir’ 

and, by extension, offers good quality. 

IN CHAMPAGNE, A ‘CRU’ IS ACTUALLY A VILLAGE 

For wine, the finest growths, or Grands Crus, have varying definitions depending 

on the wine region itself. In 1855, Bordeaux chose to classify its chateaux – Château 

Latour, for instance, is a Premier Grand Cru Classé. Burgundy favoured a more 

vineyard-centric approach, calling them ‘climats’ – Musigny is thus a Grand Cru in 

the Côte de Nuits. For Champagne, this official hierarchy came later, in 1911, and 

it revolves around villages – Verzy, for example, is a Grand Cru on the Montagne 

de Reims. 


11

CHAMPAGNE 

TERROIR 

A CLASSIFICATION TO PACIFY 

GROWERS 

A VINEYARD BLOCK IN AY CHAMPAGNE BY CHAMPAGNE COLLET 

CHARDONNAY DOM LEGRAS FRAPART 

The supply end of the Champagne wine market 

differs from others in that it is divided between 

grape growers and the prominent Champagne 

houses – brands like Gosset, Moët & Chandon 

and Pommery – which buy the grapes. Some grape 

growers also produce their own Champagnes or 

are members of co-operatives. There are therefore 

several types of stakeholders, whose interests can 

sometimes be very different. 

The lack of grapes caused by phylloxera at the 

turn of the 20 th century led to a serious crisis, 

compounded by storms and frost in 1907 and 1910, 

which produced poor crops. Rather than have to 

increase the price of scarce grapes, some Champagne 

houses chose to source fruit outside the 

appellation area of the time. This gave rise to riots 

and ‘punitive demonstrations’ targeting certain 

negociants. 

To restore peace, the production market was 

reorganised and so it was that a growth scale, 

which was already being used by some, became 

widespread. The scale classifies all villages within 

the Champagne appellation area, rating them at 

percentages ranging from 80 to 100%. The rating 

reflects the share of the price of a kilo of grapes 

every year that the negociants are obliged to pay 

the grape growers. Some villages were awarded 

a score of 100% – these are Champagne’s Grands 

Crus. Initially, there were very few of them but 

over the years, the scale was reviewed on several 

occasions and there are now 17 villages classified 

as Grands Crus. 

IS THE CLASSIFICATION BASED 

ON SUB-SOILS? 

The history of the Champagne Crus shows that 

the criteria used to award these percentages were 

fairly variable. Depending on the crops and the 

abundance or not of grapes, but also sometimes 

on negotiations between grape growers and the 

Champagne houses on a village by village basis – 


THE SUN SHINES 

OVER AMBONNAY 

some growers occasionally have vineyards in several villages – the scale changed many 

times. The ratings changed, there were sometimes different ratings for white and black 

grapes, and villages were incorporated into the appellation area. So, what really are the 

criteria? 

In Champagne, there is widespread agreement that the quality of the fruit stems from the 

chalky sub-soils. In fact, of the 17 Grands Crus, 11 are villages on the Montagne de Reims 

and 6 are in the Côte des Blancs. None of them are in the Marne Valley or in Aube, nor even 

in the Côte des Bar. Both the Montagne de Reims and the Côte des Blancs have sub-soils 

where chalk sometimes forms outcrops and is extremely deep. So, it is fair to assume that 

if the scale was approved among industry members, it is primarily due to the sub-soils, 

but probably also to local micro-climates and sometimes to cyclical balances of power. 

EU law, which outlaws price fixing, led to the demise of the remuneration system based on 

the growth scale with the 2004 harvest, reinstating a free pricing regime. But the Grands 

Crus villages were allowed to retain this now historic designation. 

THE CHAMPAGNE HOUSES VERSUS THE WINEGROWERS 

Very few of the prestige Champagnes produced by the prominent houses – the likes of 

Celebris, Dom Pérignon, Cristal, La Grande Dame, Comtes de Champagne and Dom 

Ruinart – state ‘Grand Cru’ on their labels. 

The reason for this is that although most of the fruit in the blends generally comes from 

the 17 villages entitled to the designation, regulations make it mandatory for all of the fruit 

to come from them if companies want to use the Grand Cru statement. The problem is 


13

CHAMPAGNE 

TERROIR 

EDOUARD, SYLVIE AND MICHEL AT CHAMPAGNE LANCELOT-ROYER 

that production in these villages is insufficient for 

the required volumes. The houses therefore blend 

them with grapes from other growths which lend 

the Champagnes complementary qualities. 

However, the winegrowers who produce their own 

Champagnes and are fortunate enough to own 

vineyards in Grands Crus villages often use the 

statement. Some of them also sell some of their 

Grands Crus grapes to the Champagne houses, 

which are always sold at a premium compared 

with fruit from other villages. Nobody now denies 

the superior quality of some vineyard sites, but 

only a few producers publicise those sites. The 

villages ranking at the pinnacle of the quality 

pyramid are Ambonnay, Aÿ, Beaumont sur Vesle, 

Bouzy, Louvois, Mailly-Champagne, Puisieulx, 

Sillery, Tours-sur-Marne, Verzenay, Verzy, Avize, 

Chouilly, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger and 

Oiry. That’s for the definition part, now let’s head 

off on our road trip to visit Champagne’s elite 

producers. 

CRAMANT- CHAMPAGNE 

P. LANCELOT-ROYER 

Michel Chauvet, Sylvie Lancelot’s husband, introduces 

us to this Champagne house located in the 

village of Cramant, in the Côte des Blancs. Both of 

them are fifth-generation winegrowers and their 

son Edouard Chauvet will take over from them. 

They farm 5.3 hectares of vines, including 3 classified 

Grand Cru in Cramant, along with Avize and 

Oger. It stands to reason that they only produce 

‘blanc de blancs’. 

As a reminder, Chauvet explains that the name 

‘Cramant’ comes from ‘chalk’, at the root of Grand 

Cru status. Although the first 50 cm is earth, the 

vines then put down roots deep into the chalk, 

which is highly beneficial as evidenced by the 

summer of 2022. Though hot and dry, the weather 

did not cause too much suffering for their Grand 

Cru vines – limestone is spongy and water is 

retained through capillarity. 

They produce a 100% Cramant vintage Champagne 

which spends 7 years in their cellars. The 2015 label 

Continue on page 16 


TASTING 

RARE BOTTLE 

95 / 100 

CHAMPAGNE 

MAURICE VESSELLE 

EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU CUVÉE RÉSERVÉE 

Certified High Environmental Value since 2013, the vineyards are rooted in the 

southern slopes of the Montagne de Reims. The Pinot noir-dominant grapes 

for this label fully encapsulate the complexity of their 100% classified site. 

The house is a Montagne de Reims benchmark, renowned for its mature vintages 

and vinous, food-friendly Champagnes crafted by two passionate winegrowers... 

The house was created in 1955 by Maurice Vesselle. His two sons, Didier 

and Thierry, are now at its helm and pamper their nine hectares of 

vines in Bouzy and Tours-sur-Marne all year round, as generations of 

winegrowers have done before them. They use techniques such as tillage, 

hilling up, ploughing back and soil amendments that were long considered 

fanciful. However, their quest for depth in the soils is now the envy of many 

vineyards. By taking such a conscientious approach to loosening their soils, 

the Vesselle brothers not only encourage the Pinot noir and Chardonnay vines 

to put down long-lasting roots, thereby revealing the full complexity of their 

Bouzy vineyard sites, they also limit the effects of drought and avoid the use 

of herbicides. 

When work in the vineyard is complete, the two growers transition to 

winemakers to produce their range of Champagnes. This Extra-Brut Grand 

Cru Cuvée Réservée label is blended from 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay. 

It is fermented without malolactic fermentation like all the winery’s bottlings, 

allowing the wine to fully retain its freshness and minerality. It is then 

matured on lees in the estate’s chalk cellars for five years, mostly alongside 

its collection of vintage Champagnes, before Extra-brut dosage (4 grams) is 

added. This Grand Cru displays a pretty golden hue. Its rich nose is redolent 

of fruit paste coupled with a subtle mineral tone. The attack on the palate 

is energetic and very plump with aromatic presence that grows in intensity 

through to the finish, revealing a distinctive tangy touch. Once again, Didier 

and Thierry Vesselle have crafted a hallmark Champagne, full of verve, which 

sits nicely within the range alongside the Hauts Chemins or vintage offerings 

fully equipped to withstand the test of time. The philosophy here is plain 

for all to see, and that is to treat the vineyard sites of Bouzy with respect. 

A potential companion for sweetbreads. 

SELECTED BY 


15

VINEYARDS IN CRAMANT IN 

THE CÔTE DES BLANCS 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 

THE H A R V E S T A T THE 

LEGRAS-FRAPART ESTATE 

BOTTLES WITH STAPLES AND 

CORK IN THE CELLAR AT 

DOMAINE FRANCK BONVILLE 

16 SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

CHAMPAGNE 

TERROIR 

will be released at the start of 2023. Since Covid ended, Michel has noticed that his 

customers seem to be increasingly drawn to the higher-end labels. And Cramant 

has a superb reputation. There is demand in Denmark, the Netherlands, the United 

States and Japan. 

The Grands Crus are highly prized, adds Chauvet, who also sells some fruit to Billecart-Salmon. 

By way of comparison, 1 kg of basic growth grapes fetches between 5 

and 6 euros, whereas Grands Crus grapes are more in the range of 8 euros. Often, 

Moët et Chandon – the largest producer – sets the tempo for fruit prices, and the 

others follow suit. 

OIRY/CHOUILLY – CHAMPAGNE LEGRAS-FRAPART 

Located in Oiry, this boutique winery farms less than 2 hectares of vines, most of 

them situated in Chouilly. Traditionally, you need 3 hectares of vines to be able to 

produce your own Champagne, explains Gaylord Legras, who therefore combines 

winegrowing and teaching commerce at the Champagne viticulture college. 

GAYLORD LEGRAS COMBINES WINEGROWING AND TEACHING COMMERCE 


17

CHAMPAGNE 

TERROIR 

OLIVIER BONVILLE & FERDINAND RUELLE-DUDEL 

In Chouilly, his Chardonnay vines date back to 

1939 and 1958 and are therefore old. They grow in 

two blocks 300 metres apart with the same hillside 

incline. Legras sells most of his grapes and 

produces a near-single vineyard Champagne with 

the remaining fruit. 

A Grand Cru, he points out, is a Champagne with 

more identifiable typicity, particularly when it is a 

single varietal like his own. The Grand Cru statement 

is meaningful to his customers, particularly 

in Sweden where he sells his Champagne – his 

wife is Swedish. 

He carries out vineyard work himself, with the 

help of a farm worker. He adds 20% of reserve 

wines from his stocks of the same two vineyard 

blocks to the current vintage. His Champagne is 

then matured for 7 years and dosage of around 6g 

of sugar per litre is added. After release, his wine 

develops aromas of toast and walnuts, but even 

though it is a Grand Cru it does not really benefit 

from being laid down for many years. He suggests 

that it should be drunk within a year or two. With a 

price tag of around twenty euros a bottle, why not? 

AVIZE – CHAMPAGNE FRANCK 

BONVILLE 

Ferdinand Ruelle-Dudel, who works with fourth-generation 

winegrower Olivier Bonville, introduces 

us to the winery. While Ferdinand Ruelle- 

Dudel is mostly tasked with sales and some cellar 

work, the roles are reversed for Bonville. 

The company farms 15 hectares of vines – 9 of them 

in Avize, 4.5 in Oger and 1.5 in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. 

It therefore only produces Grand Cru Champagnes 

and only grows Chardonnay. Asked about the 

present-day meaning of Grand Cru, Ruelle-Dudel 

stresses that whilst the trade-based growth scale is 

no longer in use, its implications are still very real 

for the fruit. Basically, he says, if you take a map 

and identify the areas where chalk forms outcrops 

with East-facing villages, that’s where you will find 

Champagne’s Grands Crus. 

Franck Bonville Champagnes produce blends of 

Avize and Oger. Avize wines often display abun- 


CHAMPAGNE 

TERROIR 

dant freshness with notes of white flowers, citrus 

fruits and a measure of mineral-driven salinity 

on the finish. Oger, on the other hand, is situated 

more in a dip – the soils are slightly deeper and 

consequently the wines are more generous and 

appetising. Ed: in other words, slightly less acidic 

and fruitier. Blending the two villages therefore 

makes perfect sense. 

The Bonville family actually comes from Oger and 

originally sold its grapes to negociants. But falling 

demand in the 1930s, and the consequential drop 

in prices of land, prompted it to buy vineyards in 

the surrounding area, which meant Avize. At the 

time, everything was done by horse, so growers 

had to stay within a maximum radius of 2 hours 

on horseback. Therefore, although the family has 

a lot of vineyard blocks, they are all fairly close to 

one another. 

The winery also produces single growth Champagnes 

– from Avize, Oger and Le Mesnil – and 

whilst it admits that Le Mesnil is perhaps the 

most prestigious of the three due to the presence 

of Champagne Salon and Krug’s Clos du Mesnil, it 

would never say a disparaging word against Oger. 

The Bonvilles love Oger! 

The winery also belongs to the Grands Crus d’Exception 

association which jointly produces a 

Champagne from all 17 Champagne Grands Crus. 

The wine, called C17, is due to be released at the 

end of 2022 – but it has been entirely pre-sold 

ahead of release. 

ALFRED & FRANCK BONVILLE AT HARVEST TIME 

THOMAS LOMBARD PRESENTS A BOTTLE AND THE VINEYARD SITES 

EPERNAY 

CHAMPAGNE LOMBARD 

Thomas Lombard, the current CEO of this 

family-run company, takes us on a tour. Although 

it owns 5.5 hectares of Premier Cru vines, the 

family also produces Champagne as a negociant 

– NM – sourcing grapes from 55 hectares of vines, 

10 of them classified as Grand Cru. These include 

Avize, Cramant, Oger and Ambonnay. Lombard 

stresses the long-term partnership arrangements 

with grape growers – although contracts can be 

renewed on an annual basis, some of them stem 


19

CHAMPAGNE 

TERROIR 

A BOOKLET EXPLAINING THE VINEYARD SITES AT CHAMPAGNE 

LOMBARD 

from his grandfather’s era. There are no mandatory 

requirements but Maison Lombard takes a 

very proactive role. “Obviously, we buy grapes”, 

he points out, “and not wines. We conduct soil 

surveys, discuss the ripeness of the fruit and 

are on site during harvesting. Prices are on the 

increase and securing new partnerships is challenging 

because competition is fierce”. 

Lombard believes that the essence of a Grand 

Cru is the consistent quality of the grapes, from 

one vintage to another. The vines are less prone 

to adverse weather, due to the chalky sub-soils. 

The Lombards craft every style of Grand Cru 

Champagne – from blends of several villages 

and single-growth labels from just one village to 

single-vineyard Champagnes. The closer you get 

to single-vineyard offerings, the more likely the 

audience will feature wine enthusiasts, sommeliers 

or winegrowers themselves. This paves 

the way for extensive maturation periods and 

consequently, no dosage, which produces saline 

and iodine-like notes on the finish. The winery 

has made it its mission to be transparent with 

its customers and its labels feature a plethora of 

information, from the vineyard site and harvest 

date to bottling and disgorgement dates and 

dosage in grams of sugar. There is sometimes even 

a map so that the vineyard blocks can be identified! 

Exports account for approximately half of volumes 

and demand for Grands Crus Champagnes is 

highest in countries such as Italy, Germany, Japan, 

Denmark and Singapore. 

CELEBRATION OF THE CENTENARY ANNIVERSARY AT COGEVI 7-8 OCT 21 

AŸ AND EPERNAY 

CHAMPAGNE COLLET 

The house is presented to us by sales director Carl 

Cercellier accompanied by product manager Elena 

Lapie. Champagne Collet is in fact the brand name 

of a very large co-operative winery – the Coopérative 

Générale des Vignerons, or Cogevi, which 

has 850 member growers farming 850 hectares of 

vines mostly around Aÿ and Epernay. The co-operative 

embraces a total 167 villages, 17 of them classified 

as Grand Cru. Cercellier goes back over the 


THOMAS LOMBARD IN HIS 

VINEYARD 

A BARREL IN THE CELLAR 

AT CHAMPAGNE LOMBARD 

VILLA COLLET 

SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

21

CHAMPAGNE 

TERROIR 

winery’s history: “Despite the creation of the growth scale in 1911, which made 

it compulsory to buy grapes grown in Champagne, the First World War – which 

took place here – devastated the region. A few years on and winegrowers were still 

struggling. So they decided to establish a co-operative, Champagne’s first, and one 

of the first in France. In 1928, Raoul Collet, who was a member of the winery and 

would go on to manage it for 30 years, lent his name to the co-operative’s brand, 

which became ‘Collet’. 

Cogevi now supplies many of the prominent houses but also continues to produce 

and market its own Champagne – Champagne Collet – directly. It has several 

labels, including Brut Art déco, a blend of 7 Grands Crus along with 13 Premiers 

Crus and a prestige label containing 90% Grands Crus. Only one, though, is a 

single-growth Grand Cru – and is labelled as such – from a single-vineyard selection 

of one hectare in Aÿ. “This is more Burgundy than Champagne”, jokes Cercellier, 

referring to Burgundy’s extreme terroir-driven approach. This tiny block, 

which belongs to the co-operative, produces a vintage Champagne matured for 8 

years with 8g of dosage. The vintage currently available is the 2012. Here, the cellar 

master has remained unchanged for 28 years. 

THE HOUSE CHAMPAGNE AT THE COGEVI WINERY 


SOPHIE AND PIERRE DÉTHUNE 

“Perhaps one day we will make a Champagne combining all 17 Grands Crus, 

because we do have them”, says Cercellier. “And there are other plans in the pipeline 

for the Grands Crus. But that does not imply that we can pull the rug from 

under our Art déco label!” In Champagne, the impact of every detail has to be 

carefully weighed. 

AMBONNAY 

CHAMPAGNE PAUL DÉTHUNE 

Farther North, on the Montagne de Reims, is this house managed by Pierre 

Déthune, which is named after his father. It is located in Ambonnay and boasts 

7 hectares under vine, all of them situated in this Grand Cru village. “Ambonnay 

has 200 to 300 metres’ depth of chalk, with some clay on top – it is neither too 

impermeable nor too absorbent”, explains Déthune. The land also faces South- 

South-East and therefore benefits from the morning sun which, unlike the evening 

sun, is not too hot. Here, rainfall is moderate compared with Marne, or even with 

the other side of the Montagne de Reims where summer storms can be severe. The 

mountain seems to protect against disasters, and the impact of hail is therefore 

marginal. 

Obviously, the favourite grape here is Pinot noir – the location is referred to as 

the ‘Côte des Noirs’, with a ratio of 70% versus 30% Chardonnay. The Chardonnay 

grapes grown here taste fruitier and less minerally than in the Côte des Blancs. 

Champagne Paul Déthune embraces 10 different labels, running the gamut from 


23

CHAMPAGNE 

TERROIR 

A CLOSURE USING A HEMP CORD AT CHAMPAGNE PAUL DÉTHUNE 

wines matured in stainless steel tanks to large and 

small barrels. “You have to provide a development 

in the range”, explains Déthune. When you are 

unfamiliar with Champagne, you generally start 

with stainless steel and then progress towards 

increasingly complex wines. His high-end label is 

a single-vineyard, half Pinot noir, half Chardonnay 

Champagne matured in barrels – even the oak for 

the barrels comes from the forest of Ambonnay. 

The bottle stopper has a cord of hemp around the 

cork, as a nod to techniques of a bygone era. 

Déthune is also preparing an eleventh label, with 

no added sulphur. This requires perfectly healthy 

fruit, but the flavour is different and so he has 

therefore decided to rise to the challenge. 

AMBONNAY 

CHAMPAGNE LAURIANNE LEJOUR 

A DOSAGE SESSION AT CHAMPAGNE LAURIANNE LEJOUR 

Laurianne Lejour started out in 2016 when she 

inherited a few vineyard blocks from her grandmother 

in Ambonnay. As a craftsperson who 

studied woodwork at the Boule school in Paris, she 

hesitated. The 9 blocks totalling 1.5 hectares were 

not only of a very high standard – because of their 

location in Ambonnay and Bouzy – they were also 

close together. This passionate enthusiast of all 

things manual decided to grasp the nettle. Using 

part of a winery and equipment lent to her by a 

friend in Beaumont-sur-Vesle, she began producing 

Champagne. She does all the jobs that can be 

done manually in her vineyard herself – pruning 

and training for instance – and of course crushes 

her grapes separately and ferments them in her 

tanks. 

Grands Crus, she claims, are all about how farmers 

observe nature. The reason Pinot noir has been 

grown in Ambonnay for so long is because it is 

a little better here than elsewhere. The quality is 

more consistent, and this is obvious even in the 

vineyards. For example, when there is a hard frost 

in other locations, on the hillside in Ambonnay 

there are only tiny patches. 

Lejour has a soft spot for tense, minimalist wines 

with no malolactic fermentation. Her range is 


LAURIANNE LEJOUR IN 

FRONT OF THE GRAPE PRESS 

already impressive. Some of her Ambonnay grapes are deliberately fermented 

separately because she can feel a nice, faint sourness in them that is typical 

of the village and she wants to preserve it. Her dosages – from 0 to 6g and 

often 0 – are readjusted with pinpoint precision every year. It provides her 

with an opportunity to gather round a few friends and colleagues and give 

them a tasting of all the wines where dosages have incremental sugar levels. 

Usually, 9 out of 10 judges choose the same thing – “everybody agrees on a 

good Champagne!” 

BEAUMONT-SUR-VESLE 

CHAMPAGNE PAUL SADI 

Jérôme Portier, the house’s owner, is our guide. He owns 6.5 hectares himself 

and buys grapes from a further 2.8 hectares, though he also grows these 

grapes too. Arrangements in Champagne can be complex. The vineyards 

include 2 ha located in Beaumont-sur-Vesle and Verzy. Beaumont has always 

been considered a Grand Cru, “its status is long-standing”, explains Portier. 

The reasons for this are the aspect of this Montagne de Reims village and the 

proximity of a press. Although Portier obviously grows some Pinot noir, he 

mostly produces Chardonnay. His Chardonnay is different though – it has 

some faint Pinot noir characters, in other words it is more structured and 

fruit-forward. 


25

CHAMPAGNE PAUL SADI’S CELLAR 

JÉRÔME PORTIER WITH HIS WIFE AND HIS PARENTS 

In still wines – i.e. before the secondary bottle fermentation – Portier says you can 

identify the Grand Cru sites. “We make single village and single vineyard Champagnes 

from them but we also add a little to our non-vintage Brut, to enhance 

it”. Champagne Paul Sadi is one of the contributors to the C17 association label, 

as is the afore-mentioned Champagne Franck Bonville. In this case, malolactic 

fermentation is blocked to retain tension in the Champagne and dosage varies 

from 8 to 19g. “For our long-standing customers, the Grand Cru statement on the 

label of the bottle is not that important, but it becomes meaningful for attracting 

new customers”. This sets them apart from the major negociants. However, some 

Premiers Crus can be more expensive than Grands Crus, depending on the winemaking 

techniques used, for instance the use of wood. When you taste them, it 

isn’t hard to understand why. 

BOUZY - LA COMMANDERIE DIFFUSION 

Manager Henri Beaufort introduces us to this winery, which was named La 

Commanderie Diffusion by his great grandfather in the 1930s. The winery is located 

in this Montagne de Reims Grand Cru village that is famed for its Pinot noir [Ed: 

it was even home to a famous red Coteaux Champenois wine] although Beaufort 

points out that this depends on the location of the vineyards within the village. 

Bouzy is generally warm and suited to growing Pinot noir, except for the blocks at 

the bottom of the hillside which are cooler and more conducive to growing Chardonnay. 

In some ways, it can be likened to Coteaux Bourguignons. The Chardonnay 


CHAMPAGNE 

TERROIR 

here though is different to its Côte des Blancs alter 

ego in that it is less minerally. Beaufort produces 

a Blanc de Noirs Champagne, entirely from Pinot 

noir, along with a single varietal Chardonnay 

Blanc de Blancs. Both are matured for 3 to 5 years 

with Brut dosage of 7 to 9g/litre subsequently 

added. His rarer medium-dry Champagne has 

dosage of around 35g/litre. In the 1930s, Champagne 

was a pudding wine and this medium-dry 

iteration is a remnant of that era. Beaufort himself 

prefers Champagne as an aperitif. 

HENRI BEAUFORT IN HIS WINE CELLAR 

VERZENAY 

CHAMPAGNE MICHEL ARNOULD 

& FILS 

Thomas Gibelin chose to work in this family-run 

company with his father Thierry and his uncle 

Patrick Arnould. The farm boasts 12 hectares, 

virtually all of them in Verzenay, except for two 

in the neighbouring village of Verzy. All of their 

Champagnes – and there are a dozen labels – 

are therefore classified as Grand Cru. Here, no 

grapes are either bought or sold and everything 

is “home-made”. Gibelin proudly explains that 

the clay-limestone soils and northern location on 

the Montagne de Reims are at the root of Verzenay’s 

powerful Pinot noir. “These are the raciest 

in Champagne”, because they are thick and fleshy 

on the palate. Vines have been grown in Verzenay 

since 1810 and the village was already classified 

Grand Cru in 1950 at a time when only 9 villages 

were entitled to the ranking. And although the 

village does not boast any star winegrowers, 

customers do not come to Verzenay by accident. 

Champagnes Michel Arnould & fils welcomes 

them with open arms, even though strong demand 

prevents them from selling to any new customers. 

Once again, for less demanding consumers the 

Grand Cru designation features on labels and 

acts as an initial magnet. As soon as they become 

more demanding, however, Verzenay and sometimes 

even the precise location of the vineyards, 

become the key issue. The winery farms 52 different 

vineyard blocks and is gradually heading 

THE COOPERAGE AT CHAMPAGNE MICHEL ARNOULD & FILS 


27

THIERRY GIBELIN, THOMAS GIBELIN AND PATRICK ARNOULD 

towards more single vineyard offerings. Fortunately, despite their number, the 

blocks are all located in 7 or 8 small localities, which means that some fruit can be 

harvested and fermented together. For example, the range features a ‘Mémoire de 

Vignes’ label made from vines that are over 60 years old. For its non-vintage Brut 

Chardonnay, the company swaps some Pinot noir for Chardonnay in order to add 

a little acidity. “But the Chardonnays come from a colleague in Le Mesnil sur Oger 

– we stay within the privileged realms of the Grands Crus!” 

So is a Grand Cru Champagne better? Understandably, the complex winemaking 

and maturation techniques and extreme variety of this majestic pour means that 

there is no one-size-fits-all answer. Despite this, it is tempting to say that terroir 

speaks loudest and these Champagnes always deliver that extra spark of spirit and 

the richness and complexity that have carved out their reputation. The Grands Crus 

embody artisanal winegrowing that plays second fiddle – both in volume and awareness 

– to the mass-market Champagnes sold every year. Either way, they offer the 

assurance of a return to Champagne’s roots, the certainty of tasting the reality of 

Champagne’s vineyard sites in an increasingly globalised world. For this reason 

alone, these superlative quality Champagnes will always deserve our attention. 


4 covers: France, Italy, Spain, South Africa 

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CAHORS, 

FULLY COMMITTED 

TO THE 21 ST CENTURY 

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


© ALAIN AUZANNEAU 

© LOT TOURISME C. ORY 

In 1971, Cahors was awarded appellation status with 500 hectares under vine. 

Half a century later, this benchmark appellation in South-West France now 

boasts nearly 4,500 hectares of bearing vineyards spread across 45 localities. 

This quantum leap in acreage is a genuine symbol of success… 

THE VINEYARDS OF LAMARTINE 


SOUTH-WEST 

FUTURE 

A LOOP OF THE LOT NEAR THE VILLAGE OF ALBAS 

Nestled in a meander of the Lot, the town of Cahors displays its monuments passed 

down from Antiquity and the Middle Ages amidst the steep hills and dizzy heights 

of the limestone plateaux. Behind its historical legacy lies a wine region steeped in 

history and tradition, reflecting an outstanding cultural heritage. Created in 1971, the 

Cahors Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) superseded VDQS or Vin délimité de 

qualité supérieure status. In the heart of the Quercy region, famous for its other regional 

specialities – truffles and foie gras – Malbec has become a go-to varietal. Unknown 

just twenty years ago, this black, charming, authentic grape has become fashionable 

on every continent. Originally from Cahors, it accounts for a minimum of 70% of each 

wine; Merlot and Tannat can be added to the blend, but only up to 30%. The range of 

wines on offer – all of them red – allows the appellation to capitalise on the identity of 

this distinctive grape variety and a wide array of vineyard sites, already popular with 

the King of France, François I, in the 16th century. Both of these attributes combine with 

an affordable range of prices and wide variety of labels and styles. The wines display a 

hallmark style and authenticity with appealing rich, powerful aromas and generous 

tannins. These 21st century wines are skilfully made using expert techniques, and stand 

in stark contrast to the rustic Cahors of the 1980s. They flirt with the excellence of their 

prestigious neighbours in Bordeaux and other South-West appellations. 

CHÂTEAU EUGÉNIE: 

A RICH, VARIED RANGE OF WINES 

Nestled on the terraces of the Lot valley, halfway up the hillsides on the limestone 

plateaux, Château Eugénie’s vineyards bask in generous sunshine and thrive on 


31

SOUTH-WEST 

FUTURE 

JÉRÔME COUTURE IN HIS WINERY 

an impressive array of soils that lend the wines 

their signature style. Stemming from a long line 

of passionate winegrowers, it has belonged to 

the Couture family since 1470, according to local 

archives, and they have made it a benchmark 

within the appellation. “Malbec is internationally 

recognised and has a real identity in Cahors”, 

explains Jérôme Couture. “It is a flagship grape 

variety in the South-West, with a genuine international 

reputation”. Export sales, which account for 

20% of volumes, are mainly in Canada, the United 

States and Europe. This success is epitomised by 

four recognisable labels: supple and fruity Tradition; 

the indulgent Tsar Pierre Le Grand; the structured 

and distinctive Réserve de l’Aïeul; and Haute 

Collection, a silky, complex wine. 

CHÂTEAU VINCENS: 

FAMILY EXPERTISE 

MICHEL VINCENS, THE FOUNDER OF CHÂTEAU VINCENS WITH HIS WIFE DANIÈLE IN 1982 

The history of this benchmark estate began in 1919 

when the first plot of vines was bought by Prosper 

Vincens after he returned from First World War. 

In 1982, Michel and Danièle Vincens decided to 

leave the co-operative winery where they had been 

taking their grapes for many years, and embark on 

the great adventure of making their own wine. They 

created Domaine des Vincens, which a few years 

later became Château Vincens. The present-day 

property extends over 43 hectares of vines planted 

on predominantly limestone plateaux at an altitude 

of 300 metres, overlooking the Lot valley. Isabelle 

Vincens and her brother Philippe, the third generation 

of winegrowers, have played their part in 

expanding the estate and bolstering its reputation 

by combining technical performance, respect 

for vineyard sites and the elegance of the finest 

Malbecs. “Malbec is a real advantage in export 

markets,” explains Philippe Vincens. “It is known 

worldwide, partly because of the wines of Cahors, 

but also thanks to considerable investments by the 

top Argentinean companies across the globe. Our 

importers are now delighted to be able to introduce 

their customers to its birthplace, Cahors. As 

the styles are very different, being able to show the 


SOUTH-WEST 

FUTURE 

products side by side is very worthwhile for them”. 

The wines are affordable, modern, balanced and 

more complementary to each other than rivals. In 

export markets, which for this estate account for 

40% of production, they also offer a very appealing 

addition to the range. 

PHILIPPE VINCENS 

VIGNOBLES PELVILLAIN: 

MALBEC AS A LEGACY 

“I have vines in my blood, I am destined to be 

a winegrower”. Didier Pelvillain is a key figure 

in the Cahors wine industry. In 1978, he joined 

the family-run vineyard established in the 19th 

century, before taking over at the helm in 1993 

with his two brothers Arnaud and Francis. In 

2013, they bought Château du Théron, bringing 

their total area under vine up to 52 hectares, along 

with a trading company. Since 2018, Didier Pelvillain 

has been the sole manager of this benchmark 

estate. A grand master of the Cahors wine brotherhood, 

he is a tireless promoter of the appellation, 

spreading the word far and wide about its many 

qualities. “Winegrowers have done a lot of work in 

their vineyards and their wineries to draw out the 

quintessential qualities of Malbec and its vineyard 

sites,” he explains. “Its excellent value for money 

is a real bonus, especially in export markets. 

Cahors is a small appellation with a superlative 

grape variety, but it is still considered in France to 

be a very tannic, robust wine. We have to be very 

proactive in our communications and publicise 

the way our wines have been resurrected so that 

we can safeguard our place at the heart of the top 

French wine regions”. The estate’s vineyards span 

three different vineyard sites within the appellation: 

terraces at Château du Port, the Cénac limestone 

plateau in Albas and rolling hills at Domaine 

du Théron in Prayssac. “Most of our established 

markets are stable, with 30% of our sales in export 

markets”, adds Didier Pelvillain. “However, the 

impact of the different crises affecting France and 

Europe is starting to be felt this year”. This has not 

affected the wines, though, which remain at the 

pinnacle of quality. 

DIDIER PELVILLAIN IN HIS VINEYARDS 


33

CHÂTEAU DE GAUDOU 

CHÂTEAU DE GAUDOU: 

EMOTION, CONVIVIALITY 

AND SHARING! 

CHÂTEAU DE GAUDOU: WHERE MALBEC IS PIVOTAL 

With its traditional Quercy dovecotes, Château de Gaudou looks out over a 60-hectare 

vineyard. Fabrice Durou, the seventh generation of winegrowers on this family estate, 

has been running it since 2000. His standards are uncompromising in his constant 

quest for quality - he has chosen to reduce yields and takes a hands-off approach in the 

winery to maximise the quality of his wines. “Our motto is to convey emotion, conviviality 

and sharing”, stresses Durou. “We are the Old World version, where Malbec grows in 

its original cradle with very restrictive collective specifications. It is grown using ancient 

customs which lend it growth status on a global level”. Over the years, Malbec has garnered 

a great reputation and become a real asset for exports. Château de Gaudou produces wines 

whose freshness, fruitiness, appetising and very varied flavours boast real appeal. “Malbec 

is the pivotal aspect of our work where we are on a constant learning curve”, adds Durou. 

“The region’s winegrowers are very dynamic when it comes to selling direct to consumers, 

attending major exhibitions in France and abroad. South American producers have strong 

ties with the North American market, and this has popularised Malbec throughout the New 

World, opening up even more opportunities for us. Although we didn’t initiate the trend, 

our wines are accessible both for a broad-ranging consumer audience and connoisseurs”. 


DIDIER PELVILLAIN IN 

THE WINERY 

FABRICE DUROU IN 

HIS VINEYARDS 

THE ENTIRE BALDÈS 

FAMILY 


35

SOUTH-WEST 

FUTURE 

CLOS TRIGUEDINA: 

MASTERFUL MALBEC 

JEAN-LUC BALDÈS TASTING HIS WINES 

JEAN-LUC AND SABINE BALDÈS TASTING THEIR WINES 

Clos Triguedina has been home to the Baldès 

family since 1830. It is the epitome of Cahors 

with its heritage steeped in the history of people 

and wines. It is also the spot where pilgrims en 

route to Santiago de Compostela would stop to 

eat. The estate, which is often considered as one 

of the original cornerstones of the appellation, 

is the culmination of work by seven generations 

of winegrowers who have ensured its continuity 

and development. Jean-Luc Baldès and his wife 

Sabine have seamlessly slipped into this role at 

the estate’s helm. Regularly celebrated by the 

press and awarded by judging panels at national 

and international competitions, they have 

nurtured their wines all the way to the pinnacle 

of the appellation. “Cahors wines have benefited 

from a continuous improvement in quality over 

the last few decades, and their sales have been 

driven by constant canvassing by the estates”, 

believes Sabine Baldès. “Malbec is a real bonus 

in export markets, but it is not always the only 

angle of approach. We can showcase our winegrowing 

expertise, history, family or even the 

vineyard sites. Our sales momentum is fuelled by 

the consistent quality of the wines and the diversity 

of the range”. One of the estate’s USPs is that 

it produces modern yet traditional, powerful yet 

elegant wines at affordable prices. “A fine wine can 

be drunk young but also kept for a long time”, says 

Jean-Luc Baldès. “We specialise in very age-worthy 

wines. In 2021, we released bottles and magnums 

of 1971 Clos Triguedina for the 50th anniversary of 

the appellation”. 

CHÂTEAU NOZIÈRE: 

CAPITALISING ON TERROIR 

Ideally situated on sunny terraces in Vire-sur-Lot, 

this 55-hectare property is one of the most 

beautiful vineyard locations in the Cahors wine 

region. Claude Guitard and his son Olivier grow 

Malbec, aka Côt and Auxerrois, over a mosaic of 


SOUTH-WEST 

FUTURE 

vineyards, lending the wines their typicity. “Our 

objective is to gain an in-depth understanding 

of our vineyard sites so that Malbec can express 

its full potential”, says Olivier Guitard. “Cahors’ 

success stems largely from the dynamic mindset 

of its winegrowers. The variety of wine styles and 

production models is extensive, and this leads 

to healthy competition between producers, and 

a good reputation has been garnered over the 

past few decades. Malbec has established itself 

as a calling card in many countries. It makes up 

for the lack of awareness of our small appellation 

abroad”. Drawing on their remarkable expertise, 

Claude and Olivier Guitard approach their task 

like two alchemists driven by excellence. “Our 

aim is to fully get to know our grape variety and 

above all our vineyard sites so that we can create 

a coherent range of wines”, says Olivier Guitard. 

“We strive for good ripeness to produce fine, palatable 

wines with silky tannins and no astringency 

even in the most powerful wines. There are real 

opportunities in export markets which have yet to 

be fully leveraged”. 

CLAUDE GUITARD AND HIS SON OLIVIER 

LUC LUYCKX AND HIS SON MAARTEN 

CHÂTEAU FAMAEY: 

EXPORTS SQUARELY IN ITS 

SIGHTS 

Set in the heart of the Cahors appellation, Château 

Famaey unfurls its 40 hectares of vines across the 

terraces of the Lot valley. The vineyard benefits 

from outstanding clay and gravel soils and abundant 

sunshine. Single-vineyard selections on the 

different terraces promote site-expressiveness 

and allow each wine to encapsulate its history. 

Luc Luyckx and his business partner Marc Van 

Antwerpen arrived in Quercy in 2000 from their 

native Belgium and quickly fell in love with the 

region. They have made a pledge to the environment 

and were certified HVE level 3 (High Environmental 

Value) in 2019. They lavish constant 

care on their vines and respect for nature is a 

pillar of their winemaking process. Yields are 

carefully capped to produce rich, earth-friendly 

and authentic grapes, with natural harvesting 


37

THE GUITARD FAMILY 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 

LUC LUYCKX IN 

HIS CELLARS 

THE LUYCKX FAMILY 


THE TEAM 

AT CHÂTEAU LAMARTINE 

methods for their top vineyards. Since 2007, Maarten Luyckx, who is just as passionate 

as his father Luc, has been in charge of winemaking and is committed to 

making the family estate progress a little more each day. “The success of Cahors 

stems from the arrival of a new generation of winegrowers whose overriding ambition 

is to produce quality wines”, he comments. “The Argentinians have done a 

huge amount of marketing on our original grape variety and have established a 

global name for it. Now we can leverage that publicity with our Malbec, which 

is an asset for exports combined with the image of French craftsmanship”. The 

estate produces classic wines using traditional winemaking techniques, which are 

matured in concrete tanks and barrels, alongside more modern fruit-driven pours 

matured in amphorae. Of these, 70% are exported to China, Vietnam, the United 

States and Belgium, the property’s largest markets. 

CHÂTEAU LAMARTINE: 

FINESSE AND FRESHNESS 

The impressive story of this flagship Cahors began in 1883. The original house 

was built on the site of a hundred-year-old oak tree that was used as a meeting 

place for a certain Martine, cleverly shortened to Château Lamartine in later years. 

Its 37 hectares of vines are planted on the oldest terraces of the Lot valley where 

they face South, allowing the Malbec grapes to fully ripen. On clay and limestone 

soils, the Gayraud family takes great care growing their vines and maturing 

their wines. In 2016, Lise Gayraud and her brother Benjamin, the fourth genera- 


39

SOUTH-WEST 

FUTURE 

BENJAMIN AND LISE GAYRAUD OF CHÂTEAU LAMARTINE WITH THEIR PARENTS 

ALAIN AND BRIGITTE 

tion of winegrowers, took over from their parents 

Alain and Brigitte. “Our brother and sister duo, 

which we even turned into a wine label, is our 

strength and our vineyard sites are our treasure”, 

feels Benjamin Gayraud. “Our principles focus on 

constantly improving our sustainable credentials 

and producing ever finer wines. Our success can 

also be ascribed to the quality of the wines, which 

continues to grow, and Malbec, which has brought 

us international recognition”. The varietal generates 

real opportunities in export markets, which 

account for 50% of sales, particularly markets 

where Argentinean wines are also marketed, such 

as the United States and Great Britain. Importers 

who have been loyal for several years also factor 

into the equation. “Cahors’ value for money is an 

undeniable bonus, but it is more in relation to 

other fine French wines than other South-West 

appellations”, comments Lise Gayraud. “We 

produce 200,000 bottles a year. Our four-strong 

range of wines offers distinctive consistency, great 

finesse and freshness”. 

HISTORY IN THE MAKING 

LISE AND BENJAMIN GAYRAUD AT THE HELM OF CHÂTEAU LAMARTINE SINCE 2016 

Cahors produces 20 million bottles a year and has 

undeniably leveraged the potential of Malbec. It is 

the varietal’s historical capital and the appellation 

is its second largest producer in the world after 

Argentina. The area’s identity, which has strong 

ties with particular vineyard sites and this black 

grape variety, has for some years now conveyed 

an image of quality. This is a testament to genuine 

progress which has stoked growing demand from 

consumers. “With Cahors, consumers are buying 

into a characterful wine that is full of substance, it 

is balanced, mouth-filling and refined. There are 

several reasons for this success”, claims Armand de 

Gérard, marketing and communications director 

with the Cahors wine marketing board. “First of 

all, winegrowers have focused heavily on quality in 

their vineyards and wineries over the last twenty 

years. Malbec is certainly beneficial in export 

markets, where it is very popular, with around 35% 

of volumes, in its three main markets that are the 


SOUTH-WEST 

FUTURE 

7 TH -GENERATION WINEGROWER FABRICE DUROU OF CHÂTEAU DE GAUDOU AIMS TO CONVEY, EMOTION, CONVIVIALITY AND A SENSE OF SHARING IN HIS WINES 

United Kingdom, the United States and Canada. Exports are also developing in other countries 

albeit with lower volumes”. The great variety of vineyard sites – some of them limestone 

others marl, clay-silica and siderolithic – along with the overall standard of quality and the 

potential of the appellation to produce fine wines, make it undeniably a regional powerhouse. 

Cahors wines also stand out from other fine red wines from South-West France or Argentina 

for their freshness and liveliness. This lends the wines a very pleasant sensation of lightness 

on the palate and also gives them remarkable ageability. Their styles now run the gamut, 

which is certainly the sign of a top wine region and the culmination of work by winegrowers 

to achieve quality. Since the 1950s, Malbec selection has been unique, vineyards have been 

replanted to high densities with very good leaf exposure, and there has been considerable 

investment in hygiene and quality winemaking techniques, with equipment including stainless 

steel tanks and temperature control. “The age of our vines is now at its peak and we 

have good knowledge of the best combination of grape variety and vineyard site”, concludes 

Fabrice Durou of Château de Gaudou. Having virtually just one variety to work with – with 

a requisite minimum of 70% Malbec in blends – could have been a disadvantage. But in 

actual fact, it also makes Cahors winegrowers experts in growing the varietal. And with 

global warming and other aspects factored into the equation, this unique grape variety still 

has many surprises in store. 


41

LIRAC, TAVEL & 

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 

DIAMONDS IN THE ROUGH 

BY FLORIAN GLEMOT DIPWSET 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


©JULIEN GOUNEL 

Mention the Southern Rhone wine region and most people immediately 

think Châteauneuf-du-Pape. As the region’s spearhead, blessed with ancient 

craftsmanship and an international reputation, it could easily make us forget that 

very nearby other fine southern wines are being produced, on similar soils. One is 

Lirac, in all three colours, and the other is the rosé-only Tavel appellation. We go 

on a voyage of discovery through these three appellations to look at their unique 

characters. 

BUSH PRUNING, WHICH IS TYPICAL OF THE SOUTHERN RHONE, PROTECTS THE GRAPES FROM THE SCORCHING SUMMER SUN 


RHONE VALLEY 

TRAVEL 

PEBBLES STORE UP HEAT DURING THE DAY AND RADIATE IT BACK OVER NIGHT, 

EXPEDITING FRUIT RIPENING 

An undisputed standard-bearer worldwide, Châteauneuf-du-Pape has 

a history of winegrowing dating back to the Roman Empire. The area 

truly gained its prestige though at the turn of the 14 th century when the 

Bordeaux Pope Clement V recognised the genuine quality of its vineyard 

sites. His successor, Pope John XXII, bestowed upon it the status of ‘Wine 

of Popes’. Served at the Pope’s table in the palace of Avignon, it enjoyed 

recognition that went far beyond national borders. After the phylloxera 

crisis that devastated vineyards in 1866, Baron Le Roy de Boiseaumarié, 

owner of Château Fortia, along with local winegrowers, set in motion the 

process that would culminate in the official creation of France’s first AOC 

for the production of red and white wines in 1936, cementing the future 

for high quality wines. Swept up in the same movement, the neighbouring 

area of Tavel was also promoted to appellation status, but only for rosé 

wines. Lirac would be singled out for distinction a few years later, in 1947, 

but for all three colours of wine. What the three AOCs have in common is 

their generous sunny Mediterranean climate and the strong influence of 

the Mistral, the blustery, dry wind hailing from the North of the Rhone 


43

RHONE VALLEY 

TRAVEL 

Valley. Despite these similarities, their characteristics 

differ, lending each of them their own 

specific identity. We take an in-depth look at each 

appellation. 

ÉMILIE BOISSON, THE SEVENTH-GENERATION 

WINEGROWER AT DOMAINE DU PÈRE CABOCHE, 

PRODUCES SIGNATURE FINE, ELEGANT WINES 

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE: 

MULTIFACETED SOUTHERN 

CHARACTERS 

JEAN-PIERRE BOISSON, THE FORMER MAYOR OF CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE AND CHAIRMAN 

OF THE WINEGROWERS’ ORGANISATION, HAS WORKED HARD TOWARDS SECURING 

INTERNATIONAL RECOGNITION FOR THE APPELLATION 

Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s global reputation has been 

built up over time through the methodical and 

passionate work by countless families with roots 

in the region that go back a long way. The Boisson 

family is a case in point – its involvement in the 

local wine scene dates back to the 18 th century. 

Jean-Pierre Boisson took over Domaine du Père 

Caboche in 1972. The estate’s name is a nod to its 

other activity at the time as a farrier – ‘caboche’ 

in Provencal refers to the nail that fixes the 

shoes to the horses’ hooves. The former mayor of 

Châteauneuf-du-Pape and chairman of the winegrowers’ 

organisation, Boisson played a pivotal 

role in securing recognition for Châteauneuf-du- 

Pape wines in the international arena. One of the 

ways he did so was by representing the appellation 

at the Vinexpo trade fair from its inception in 

the early 1980s, at a time when the exhibition was 

largely dominated by Bordeaux. Attendance at the 

event paved the way for conquering international 

markets, particularly North America. Seventh-generation 

winegrower Emilie Boisson has been 

at the estate’s helm since 2016. Inspired by the 

wines of Burgundy, she has successfully imbued 

the estate’s wines with a fresh, delicate style. The 

iconic Elisabeth Chambellan label, dedicated to 

one of her ancestors, is a blend of the 13 grape 

varieties initially authorised as per appellation 

rules; the number has now risen to 18. The wine is 

made from century-old vines in the La Crau area. 

Its sandy soils with high iron content have encouraged 

these old vines to put down deep roots and 

lend the wines remarkable balance and fullness. 

Grenache noir is king in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 


RHONE VALLEY 

TRAVEL 

accounting for three quarters of area under vine 

and boasting an outstanding legacy of very old 

vines. Olivier Hillaire, with the help of his two sons 

Baptiste and Corentin, farms 17 hectares of vines 

in the appellation spread over the three main type 

of soils in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Les Petits 

Pieds d’Armand label is made from vines planted 

in 1899 by his grandfather in La Crau. Olivier aims 

for powerful site-expressiveness in his wines 

by harvesting his Grenache grapes after a very 

long hang-time, with yields in the range of 12 to 

15 hl/ha. “The fruit is the linchpin of the potential 

quality of a wine. Intense colour and aromas can be 

extracted from Grenache provided it is very ripe”. 

The grapes soak for over a month on the skins, and 

undergo rack-and-return and punching of the cap 

repeatedly in a bid to extract intense, powerful 

and extremely concentrated juice. The wines are 

subsequently matured for a minimum of one year 

in lightly toasted oak barrels to give them a silky 

and generous sheen. The wine is very popular with 

North American consumers, with two thirds of 

volumes exported to the continent. 

OLIVIER HILLAIRE AND HIS 2 SONS PRODUCE CONCENTRATED, EXPRESSIVE 

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE WINES 

MATTHIEU FAURIE-GREPON, ESTATE MANAGER AT 

MAS SAINT LOUIS, CRAFTS BEAUTIFUL AGE-WORTHY 

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE WINES, WITH A SPECIAL 

MENTION FOR THE GRANDE RÉSERVE LABEL 

At the southern tip of the appellation, on sandy 

soil with much better drainage, is Mas Saint-Louis 

with its thirty hectares. The unbroken vineyards 

are clad with the area’s storied pebbles. Matthieu 

Faurie-Grepon, the estate’s manager, determines 

the harvest date only by tasting the grapes, so as 

not to be influenced by analyses. He is mindful 

to avoid over-ripe fruit: “We try and preserve the 

freshness of our wines, so we only carry out a few 

very light pump-overs to gently infuse the wine. We 

only destem a small share of our grapes, to enhance 

the structure and complexity of our wines, but also 

their freshness. The sandy soils help us achieve 

natural elegance”. The 2019 Grande Réserve label 

stood out for us. Boasting great fruit concentration 

and a structure that is still firm, the wine is already 

complex and will need a few more years to fully 

reveal its aromatic potential and soften its tannins 

to ensure the best flavour experience. 


45

PHILIPPE GRANGER AND HIS SON 

AURÉLIEN ARE WINEGROWERS AT 

DOMAINE LA MEREUILLE AND THEY 

PUSH THE BOUNDARIES BY GROWING 

CUVÉE D’AURÉ, A SINGLE VARIETAL 

SYRAH CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 

Although rooted in a strong tradition of blending with Grenache at its core, 

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is not, strictly speaking, a blended appellation, unlike 

neighbouring appellations. New avenues can therefore be explored with different 

grape varieties. Philippe Granger began running Domaine La Mereuille in 2007. He 

is adapting vineyard management techniques: “Vines need to adapt and become 

stronger in order to rise to the agronomic challenges of tomorrow. Natural grass 

cover, for example, helps limit soil erosion, retains dampness and life deep in the 

soil to better equip the vines for sudden rises in temperature over the summer. 

This is essential for combatting drought which is becoming more common due 

to climate change”. His son Aurélien joined him and produced his first vintage in 

2015. The label, La Cuvée D’Auré, has since been produced in the finest vintages 

from Syrah vines on red clay and pebble soils. The single varietal Syrah is then 

matured for 20 months in Burgundy casks. Its purpose is to push the envelope and 

add a new facet to the multiple iterations of wines from the appellation. 

A winery’s task is to provide its customers with a clear and coherent range of 

wines, and the use of appellations in the Southern Rhone makes for much greater 

clarity. Château Mongin, located in the town of Orange, produces a wide range 

of wines under the Côtes-du-Rhône, Côtes-du-Rhône Villages and Châteauneufdu-Pape 

appellations. Roxane Nibaudeau, its director, stresses how truly complementary 

the appellations are: “The appellations naturally create a range of wines, 

from the fruit-forward, Grenache-based pours for pleasure in Côtes-du-Rhône 


THE TEAM AT CHÂTEAU MONGIN 

PROVIDES A COMPREHENSIVE, 

COHERENT RANGE OF WINES 

SPANNING THE REGION’S 

DIFFERENT APPELLATIONS 

(10 days’ soaking), to greater structure, intensity and spice imparted primarily 

by Syrah in Côtes-du-Rhône Villages (2 weeks’ maceration), finishing at the 

top with Châteauneuf-du-Pape, an intense, complex, profound blend (32 days’ 

maceration)”. The estate, which has long-standing ties with the Orange viticulture 

college, invested in a variety of fermenters and maturation vessels such 

as concrete egg-shaped tanks, truncated conical oak tanks and demi-muids in 

2020, in order to experiment with different types of maturation techniques and 

to compare their characteristics with students at the agricultural college. 

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, LIRAC, TAVEL: 

COMPETITORS OR COMPLEMENTARY? 

The soils of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Lirac are very similar, so how can the 

unique characters of the wines be explained? Xavier Vignon, a winemaker and 

wine merchant for many Southern Rhone appellations, answers this complex 

question: “Terroir comprises three major elements: water, temperature and wind”. 

Water acts as a vector for minerals (its availability depends on local rainfall and 

the ambient humidity provided by the Rhone); temperature (aspect, nature and 

colour of the soil) will influence ripeness; and lastly the wind has an impact on 

vine transpiration – vines exposed to the strong, dry Mistral wind, will ‘suck out’ 

more water from the soil, and with it a greater amount of mineral salts. The two 


47

XAVIER VIGNON, A CONSULTANT 

WINEMAKER IN THE SOUTHERN 

RHONE FOR 30 YEARS, PRODUCES 

WINES OVER MANY SOUTHERN 

RHONE GROWTHS, TAKING CARE 

TO BRING OUT THE SOUL OF 

THEIR ORIGINAL VINEYARD SITES 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 


RHONE VALLEY 

TRAVEL 

appellations have different geographical characteristics 

and microclimates. This is mainly due 

to the Cévennes mountains to the North of Lirac, 

which trigger more rainfall, and to a ‘Rhone bankside 

effect’ which means that Lirac gets more 

dampness from the Rhone than Châteauneufdu-Pape 

when the Mistral blows – Lirac is located 

downwind of the Rhone. “The unique site-expressiveness 

of the wines in the two appellations 

is therefore intrinsically linked to the difference 

in evapotranspiration of the vines. Châteauneuf 

wines therefore express more savouriness (more 

concentrated mineral salts), which is what lends 

them their structure, their mineral backbone, 

their length on the palate, and substantial ageability”. 

Xavier Vignon excels in the art of maturing 

and blending wines, which offer a faithful 

rendition of their terroir. Careful tasting is a 

very practical way of translating the explanation 

provided above. 

Extreme real estate pressure in Châteauneufdu-Pape 

has prompted many winegrowers and 

trading companies to gradually move into the 

neighbouring appellations of Lirac and Tavel. 

This is particularly true of Ogier which produces 

wines in numerous Rhone appellations. Its technical 

director Édouard Guerin reveals through his 

wines the specific identity of each vineyard site 

with his ‘crus’: “Our aim is not to produce a ‘lesser’ 

Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Lirac appellation, but 

rather to bring out the essence of its identity by 

focusing on the fawn-sand soils in the East of the 

appellation. These are very deep sandy Miocene 

soils, generating low water stress and fine, delicate 

characters in the wines. They are also cooler 

soils and by carefully choosing harvest dates that 

balance freshness and ripeness with razor-sharp 

precision, crisp wines with an elegant persona, 

gifted with very fine-grain tannins and great 

palatability, can be produced. The Lirac Le Petit 

Prince label therefore has its own personality, and 

sits easily within a coherent range, without being 

overshadowed by its prestigious stable mate. 

XAVIER VIGNON EXCELS IN THE ART OF BLENDING. HIS ARCANES RANGE OF 

POP-UP LABELS EXPRESSES THE QUINTESSENTIAL QUALITIES OF 

A VINEYARD SITE IN A GIVEN VINTAGE 

ÉDOUARD GUERIN, TECHNICAL DIRECTOR OF MAISON OGIER, 

PRODUCES ELEGANT WINES BY SEEKING OUT THE RIGHT 

BALANCE BETWEEN FRESHNESS AND RIPENESS 


49

VINCENT PEYRE, THE WINEGROWER 

AT CHÂTEAU CORRENSON, 

PRODUCES A RANGE OF 

WINES SPANNING THE THREE 

APPELLATIONS LIRAC, TAVEL AND 

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 


THE MABY FAMILY HAS BEEN 

PRODUCING WINE IN TAVEL FOR 

4 GENERATIONS 

Following the same rationale of complementarity, Château Correnson, which 

already had a foothold in the Lirac and Tavel appellations, was able to acquire 

a hectare in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Although production remains low, having a 

Châteauneuf-du-Pape label in its portfolio allows it to grow exports. Château 

Correnson winegrower Vincent Peyre uses a metaphor to describe his vision: 

“Making Châteauneuf is like driving a Ferrari, it’s a kind of achievement for a 

winegrower”. Châteauneuf-du-Pape may well be considered the King of reds 

in the region, but Tavel is most certainly the Queen of rosés. It comprises three 

main types of soil: the historic sandy soils to the South-East of the namesake 

village; pebbles to the North; and flagstones to the West – these are white 

calcareous stones that instil distinct mineral character in the wines. The Tavel 

by Château Correnson, a blend of 5 grape varieties partly grown on flagstone 

soils, offers great roundness and intense aromas of fresh red fruits underscored 

by a mineral backbone, the signature trait of Tavel wines. It sits at the pinnacle 

of the estate’s range of rosés, with the appetising but less complex Lirac rosés a 

rung further down, and finally the very light, fresh Côtes-du-Rhône made in a 

fashionable Provencal style. 

Traditionally made from vines grown on sandy soil, which produces lightly 

coloured wines, Tavel has always been fermented in the same way as shortsoaked 

red wines, akin to Bordeaux ‘clairet’. It is therefore only natural that 

when AOCs were established in 1936, Tavel was entitled to produce rosés, and 

Châteauneuf-du-Pape reds and whites. Richard Maby, who descends from a line 

of winegrowers based in Tavel for more than two centuries and is the former 

chairman of the winegrowers’ organisation, explains what happened next: “At 

the start of the 1990s and the emergence of lightly coloured rosés from Provence, 

Tavel witnessed a clear drop in sales. This led to some serious soul-searching, 


51

RHONE VALLEY 

TRAVEL 

but rather than turn their backs on tradition, Tavel winegrowers rolled up their 

sleeves to improve quality. It was a challenging time, but we are now seeing 

customers return, some of them tired of light-coloured rosés and looking for 

characterful, food-friendly rosés”. Maby also produces magnificent Lirac reds, 

particularly the Bel Canto label, a pure Grenache noir from old vines grown on 

pebble-strewn soils. The wine is matured in demi-muids specially designed for 

the wine, where the wood was seasoned for two years before the vessel was made. 

The aim here is to oxygenate the wine very sensitively, while minimising oak 

influence. It is the result of decades of passionate work by Richard Maby after 

he took over the estate: “It is the purest and most faithful expression of our Lirac 

vineyards”. 

Château Trinquevedel is located on the historic sandy soils of Tavel and is also 

an integral part of the appellation’s history. Guillaume and Céline Demoulin, 

the fourth generation of winegrowers at the Château, produce two Tavel labels. 

The storied sandy soil promotes great freshness and elegance in the wines. The 

traditional label is macerated for 24 hours so as to best express the freshness of 

the fruit. The 100,000 bottles of wine produced are almost entirely marketed in 

export markets, particularly North America and Northern Europe. Guillaume 

GUILLAUME AND CÉLINE DEMOULIN, THE FOURTH-GENERATION WINEGROWERS AT 

CHÂTEAU TRINQUEVEDEL, PRODUCE TAVEL WINES ON THE HISTORIC SANDY SOILS 


Demoulin, current chairman of the Tavel winegrowers’ organisation, explains 

why the wines are successful: “These mature markets like red Rhône wines, but 

if they want to drink rosé, they will definitely enjoy Tavel. We carry out many 

joint sales and promotional activities with the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation. 

The two appellations are truly complementary, and are often both enjoyed 

by the same clientele”. 

THREE INDIVIDUAL APPELLATIONS HEADING 

IN THE SAME DIRECTION 

Although they have historical connections and are based on similar soils, the 

three appellations nevertheless display clearly unique characters. Despite their 

differences, the trio works in unison, each providing the others with that little 

extra something that the others do not have: the reputation of Châteauneuf-du- 

Pape, the unique character of Tavel rosés, and the vitality of Lirac are all precious 

attributes that they convey naturally to one another. Many producers established 

in the three appellations point to the impressive harmony between the wines, 

which create a clear, understandable range for consumers. With Châteauneufdu-Pape 

in the vanguard, the three appellations move forward together, sharing 

marketing success and tackling future climate challenges, showing the wine 

world that there is strength in numbers, not division. 


53

EMILIA-ROMAGNA AND UMBRIA 

SEEN THROUGH THE LENS 

OF SUSTAINABILITY 

BY FRANCESCO SAVERIO RUSSO 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


Only Emilia-Romagna and Umbria were missing from our journey through 

Italy’s wine regions. We visit them and place particular emphasis on their 

sustainability efforts. 

ARNALDO CAPRAI VINEYARDS ARE SPREAD OVER 36 DIFFERENT BLOCKS WITH 6 DIFFERENT MESOCLIMATES AND SOILS 


ITALY 

ORGANIC 

TENUTA PEDERZANA GROWS A PARTICULAR CLONE OF LAMBRUSCO GRASPAROSSA, NAMELY LAMBRUSCO 

GRASPAROSSA DI CASTELVETRO, WHICH LENDS ITS NAME TO THE LOCAL DOC 

A 

s its name suggests, Emilia-Romagna is a region with two souls, characterised 

by plains covering the upper half and the Apennine Mountains in the lower half. 

The climate is mostly continental, with cold winters and hot summers, and becomes 

almost Mediterranean as you approach the coast. On the plains, the seasons are 

defined by high humidity (which becomes fog in winter), while the Adriatic side, with 

its favourable sea breezes, enjoys milder temperatures on average. Winegrowing 

develops on a long strip that starts from the Piacentini hills, bordering the Oltrepò 

Pavese area in Lombardy, and reaches the border with the Marche region, following 

the famous Via Emilia. 

In terms of the grape varieties grown in the region, Emilia-Romagna is also divided 

in two. In Emilia, in the Piacenza area, the most widespread grape varieties are black 

grapes such as Barbera and Croatina (Gutturnio DOC) and white grapes such as the 

aromatic Malvasia di Candia and Moscato bianco, as well as the indigenous Ortrugo. 

International varieties such as Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio, Riesling 

Italico and Müller-Thurgau are also widespread. The Parma area is more white wine 

driven. The provinces of Reggio-Emilia and Modena are home to Lambrusco: Salamino, 

Maestri, Marani, Montericco, Sorbara and Grasparossa (Ancellotta is also 

very present here). In the Bologna area is Pignoletto, yielding the local DOCG Colli 

Bolognesi Classico Pignoletto. In the Ferrara area, is the black grape Fortana (Bosco 

Eliceo DOC). In Romagna, the most important grape variety is, of course, Sangiovese, 

which is flanked by Trebbiano Romagnolo, Pagadebit and the noble Albana, 

which produces Albana di Romagna DOCG. 

As an illustration of the variety of Emilia-Romagna wines and the region’s focus on 

sustainability, here is a selection of wineries. 


55

ITALY 

ORGANIC 

BRANCHINI 1858 

160 YEARS OF HISTORY 

IN 1858, THE BRANCHINI FAMILY OF ‘GALAVOLTA’ CHOSE TO MOVE FROM TUSCANY TO 

EMILIA-ROMAGNA, MARKING THE START OF THIS HISTORIC WINERY 

BRANCHINI’S VINEYARD MANAGEMENT TECHNIQUES FOCUS ON MAINTAINING BALANCE 

IN THE VINES, WHILST AVOIDING TOO MUCH FORCED INTERVENTION 

The story of this winery began in 1858 when the 

Branchini family moved from Siena to Toscanella di 

Dozza (Bologna) in the industrious Emilia Romagna 

region. Multiple generations of the family have 

continued to follow a shared vision and today the 

company is run by the fourth generation, Marco, 

the family winemaker, and Angelo, an agricultural 

expert. All stages of grape production and winemaking 

are carried out on the estate. Vineyard 

management focuses on maintaining balance in 

the vines, whilst avoiding too much forced intervention. 

In the winery, the use of modern technologies 

preserves the integrity of the fruit, aiming 

to highlight the identity of the vines in the region. 

Branchini uses integrated pest management, 

applying solutions with the lowest environmental 

impact every year. The grapes grown are Albana, 

Sangiovese and Pignoletto and used to make 

sparkling, still and reserve wines, as well as passito. 

Albana is the queen of varieties, yielding four different 

wines: a classic method, a dry white and two 

passito wines. 

The balance sought in the vineyard is the philosophy 

behind production of the wines. Each vineyard is 

fermented separately using different techniques 

depending on the grapes and the desired outcome, 

with the aim of unleashing the natural potential of 

each variety. The key markets in addition to Italy are 

Germany and the United States. 

AZIENDA CELLI - OVER 50 YEARS 

OF HISTORY OF TWO FAMILIES 

DEVOTED TO QUALITY 

Founded in 1963, Azienda Celli has been owned by 

the Sirri and Casadei families, nicknamed Bron & 

Rusèval, since 1965. In 1985 the facilities underwent 

a renovation which sparked the adoption of a new 

philosophy geared towards the constant search for 

quality and typicality. 

In 1995, the company acquired and planted new 

vineyards and it now boasts 35 hectares of vineyards 


MAURO SIRRI RUNS AZIENDA 

CELLI WITH EMANUELE CASADEI, 

FOLLOWING IN THE FOOTSTEPS 

OF THEIR TWO FAMILIES, 

NICKNAMED BRON AND RUSÈVAL, 

WHO FOUNDED THE COMPANY 

located around the village of Bertinoro. Production focuses on the most representative varietals 

in Bertinoro: Sangiovese, Albana, Pagadebit, Trebbiano and a small amount of Chardonnay 

and Cabernet Sauvignon. Today, the company is run by Mauro Sirri, who looks after 

vineyard management and sales, and Emanuele Casadei, who is tasked with winemaking. 

Together, the owners represent a rare and excellent example of generational continuity in 

Bertinoro wine production. Their experience, with more than 55 vintages under their belt, is 

reflected in the wines. ‘La Massa’ shows more body and structure, ‘Cellaimo’ is more savoury, 

‘Maestrina’ displays great elegance and balance and ‘Campi di Fratta’ delivers more fresh, 

mineral wines. An unwavering love for the land led to the conversion of all the vineyards to 

organic in 2018, while in 2020 the company was awarded organic certification for the grapes 

and the winemaking processes. The company exports its wines to Asia (Japan, China, the 

Philippines), North America (Canada and USA) and throughout Europe. 

SETTECANI - ALMOST 100 YEARS AS A MODEL 

OF ITALIAN COOPERATION 

Cantina Settecani was founded in 1923 in the hamlet of Settecani, on the border of the 

Modena towns of Castelvetro, Castelnuovo Rangone and Spilamberto. Here, almost 100 

years ago, 48 farmers decided to join forces to create what is now considered to be one of the 

most significant co-operatives in Emilia-Romagna and Italy. Today there are 180 members 

and they farm 400 hectares of vineyards producing approximately 1 million bottles each year. 

The vineyards belonging to Cantina Settecani’s members, where Lambrusco (mainly Grasparossa) 

reigns supreme, are mainly located in the hilly area of Castelvetro, the town that 


57

THE NAME ‘SETTECANI’ DATES 

BACK TO THE 12TH CENTURY AND 

IS NAMED AFTER A LEGEND WHERE 

SEVEN WORKERS WERE TURNED 

INTO DOGS AS PUNISHMENT FOR 

SWEARING IN FRONT OF 

A RELIGIOUS PROCESSION 

CANTINA SETTECANI’S SOILS ARE 

MAINLY CLAY AND SAND WHICH 

IS RICH IN LIMESTONE AND 

IDEAL FOR ENHANCING THE MAIN 

GRAPE VARIETIES, INCLUDING 

LAMBRUSCO GRASPAROSSA AND 

PIGNOLETTO 

lends its name to the DOC. The sandy clay, limestone-rich soils, together with permeable and 

lean soils, create perfect sites for the grape varieties to thrive and winery styles to blossom. 

Cantina Settecani is committed to achieving sustainability and its approach involves every 

aspect of its business. In order to do this, it has decided to join the VIVA project, created 

with the aim of measuring and improving the sustainability performance of the vine-wine 

supply chain, and the Minerva project, which intends to implement sustainability practices 

and protocols in the integrated wine supply chain of the Lambrusco and Pignoletto hillside 

district. In addition to this, an improvement programme has been implemented, paving 

the way for the reduction of environmental impacts and the improvement of the outcome 

of VIVA sustainability indicators. The project starts from the countryside and involves the 

entire supply chain, up to the winery itself. Measures to improve energy performance have 

also been implemented, lighter packaging with a lower impact on the environment has been 

chosen, and occupational safety for the staff has become a focus. In 2019 Cantina Settecani 

extended VIVA certification to the entire company. Lambrusco (Grasparossa, Sorbara and 

Salamino) and Pignoletto wines, as well as a small amount of Trebbiano dell’Emilia and 

Sangiovese are sold in Italy to the hotel and restaurant sector, as well as through direct sales 

both physically and online. Approximately 30% of production is exported to Japan, the USA, 

Norway, the Czech Republic, Germany, France, China and Taiwan. 


ITALY 

ORGANIC 

TENUTA PEDERZANA AND ITS 

UNIQUE PLANT HERITAGE 

FRANCESCO GIBELLINI IS THE THIRD GENERATION OF WINEGROWERS AND 

IS NOW THE OWNER OF TENUTA PEDERZANA 

Tenuta Pederzana is located in the Emilian hills of 

the medieval village of Castelvetro di Modena. The 

winery was founded after the war by winegrower 

Franco Simonini and specialises in the production 

of Lambrusco. Tenuta Pederzana, in particular, 

grows and produces a unique clone of Lambrusco 

Grasparossa, which produces Lambrusco Grasparossa 

di Castelvetro. The vineyards enjoy optimal 

exposure and, at the same time, are cooled by 

currents that promote considerable temperature 

ranges, enhancing the aromatic profile and 

phenolic maturation of Lambursco Grasparossa. 

Today, Tenuta Pederzana is led by Francesco 

Ghibellini - the third generation of winegrowers 

- and can be described as a modern winery that 

respects traditions. Full respect is also paid to the 

land with great attention in the vineyard and the 

use of modern winemaking methods that encapsulate 

the truest favours of the grapes in the bottle, 

including an experiment with wine using no added 

sulphites. In addition to Italy, the main market for 

Tenuta Pederzana wines is the USA, where they are 

very successful. 

IN THE MEVANTE VINEYARDS, THE GRAPE HARVEST USUALLY BEGINS IN THE 

LAST WEEK OF SEPTEMBER WHICH IS UNUSUAL FOR THE AREA 

UMBRIA - ‘GREEN’ BY NATURE 

This small region nestled in the centre of the Italian 

peninsula is called the ‘green heart of Italy’ for its 

lush landscapes of alternating vineyards, olive 

groves, arable land and forests. The region is a rare 

example of the preservation of biodiversity and 

protection of the land that sees wineries at the forefront 

of promoting this natural wealth. The area has 

pioneered the development of organic farming since 

the 1980s. Today, most wineries operate organically 

or use integrated pest management, implementing 

low-impact vineyard management techniques. 

The region is 71% hilly with a balance of mountains. 

The area enjoys relatively mild winters and hot, dry 

summers, with wide temperature ranges, well-distributed 

rainfall and rare late frosts, and is therefore 

suited to viticulture. The white grapes grown 


59

ITALY 

ORGANIC 

AT MEVANTE THE MATURATION CELLARS ARE 

UNDERGROUND, ALLOWING NATURAL TEMPERATURE AND 

HUMIDITY CONTROL AND FAVOURING SLOW, GRADUAL 

AGEING WITH VERY LOW ENERGY CONSUMPTION 

in the region include Malvasia Bianca, Trebbiano 

Toscano, Verdello, Canaiolo Bianco, Procanico and 

Trebbiano Spoletino (rediscovered a few years ago.) 

The red grapes grown include Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, 

Canaiolo Nero, Montepulciano, Barbera, Gamay del 

Trasimeno (Grenache) and, in particular, Sagrantino. 

There are also some international varieties 

such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, 

Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir 

and Cabernet Franc. The main DOC wines in the 

region are Assisi, Colli Altotiberini, Colli Amerini, 

Colli del Trasimeno, Colli Martani, Colli Perugini, 

Lago di Corbara, Montefalco, Orvieto, Rosso Orvietano 

and Torgiano. The most important designations 

are Torgiano Rosso Riserva Docg and Montefalco 

Sagrantino Docg, the latter a true reference 

point for the entire region. 

We have therefore selected four sustainable companies 

in the Sagrantino area that go the extra mile. 

MEVANTE - SUSTAINABILITY 

AND STYLISTIC PRECISION 

THE MEVANTE WINE CELLAR, BUILT TO A MODERN AND SUSTAINABLE CONCEPT, IS ON 

TWO FLOORS AND USES THIS CONFIGURATION TO CONDUCT RACKING 

The Mevante winery, established in the 1990s, is 

located in the hills of Bevagna, in the heart of the 

Sagrantino di Montefalco production area. The 

estate, owned by siblings Paolo and Antonella Presciutti, 

forms an unbroken stretch of 10 east-facing 

hectares. The winery’s name is taken from a combination 

of the ancient name of Bevagna (Mevania) 

and from the ‘Levante’ or easterly exposure. The 

vineyards are managed sustainably and organically 

with the use of green manure to nourish the vines 

without the use of synthetic chemical fertilisers. 

Pruning is done strictly by hand, while selective 

work in the vineyard reduces the need for winemaking 

interventions. The wines also have very low 

levels of sulphur dioxide. 

The cellar is spread over two floors and takes advantage 

of this configuration to carry out racking, handling 

the wine more gently and preserving the aromas 

better, as well as using less energy. The wine maturation 

cellars are underground and consequently the 

temperature and humidity are naturally controlled, 

which favours slow and natural ageing and a lower 


THE AZIENDA AGRICOLA MONTIONI WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1978 IN UMBRIA AND IS NOW RUN BY 

A TEAM OF YOUNG PEOPLE WHO LOOK TO THE FUTURE WHILE RESPECTING TRADITION 

THE MONTIONI FARM’S VINEYARDS ARE MANAGED ORGANICALLY 

WITH MOST TASKS PERFORMED BY HAND 

environmental impact due, again, to lower energy consumption. To date, annual production 

stands at around 60,000 bottles, divided between Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG, Montefalco 

Rosso DOC, Grechetto DOC and an IGT from 100% Trebbiano Spoletino grapes. Mevante’s 

key markets are the USA, northern Europe, Canada and ultimately the Italian market with a 

particular focus on Umbria. 

MONTIONI - TRADITION AND INNOVATION IN MONTEFALCO 

The Montioni family has been producing wine and oil in the Montefalco area of Umbria 

since 1978. The region has a long history of wine and olive production, and at Montioni 

the team makes use of these traditions combined with modern innovations to improve 

the quality of its products. Today, the team is young and dynamic, with an average age of 

only 39. The company grows Sagrantino, Sangiovese, Merlot and Grechetto grapes, from 

which it produces pure Grechetto, Montefalco Rosso and 3 types of Sagrantino, one of which 

is a passito wine, the second is a ‘classic’ iteration made from grapes in all the Sagrantino 

vineyards, and the other, selected from the company’s finest vineyard, is dedicated 

to the children of Paolo Montioni (the owner of the company) and his wife Sara. The wine 

is called Ma.Gia after the initials of their children Matteo and Giacomo. The vineyards are 

managed organically, with a great deal of manual work in the vineyard. Zoning and geological 

analyses have been completed across the entire site to ensure that any agricultural 

and agronomic operations align with the needs of the specific area. The company exports 


61

ITALY 

ORGANIC 

95% of its products to markets such as the United 

States, Canada, Puerto Rico, Vietnam, Luxembourg, 

Belgium, Germany, Poland and Ireland. 

LA VENERANDA 

A FEMALE-RUN WINERY 

LA VENERANDA IS LOCATED ADJACENT TO THE MEDIEVAL TOWN OF MONFEFALCO 

THE ORIGINS OF THE FOUNDING FAMILY OF LA VENERANDA ARE ROOTED IN MONTEFALCO 

WHERE THEY HAVE LIVED AND WORKED THE LAND SINCE 1568 

La Veneranda is an exclusively female-run winery 

helmed by Eleonora Alessandrelli and Anna 

Rita Scarca, who continue the work started by 

their families aimed at enhancing the wines of 

Montefalco. They farm 20 hectares of vineyards 

with passion, dedication and respect. Grechetto 

and Sagrantino grapes are grown on a 2-hectare 

block in the Spoleto area, and are used to produce 

IGT wines. Sagrantino, Sangiovese, Merlot and 

Grechetto are mainly grown in the Montefalco 

vineyards and used to produce Montefalco DOC 

Grechetto, Montefalco DOC Rosso, Montefalco 

Sagrantino DOCG and Montefalco Sagrantino 

DOCG Passito wines. Awareness of nature’s finite 

resources and a desire to give future generations 

an environment that has not been ruined 

by inordinate consumption, have led the family 

to focus on a sustainable form of agriculture that 

respects the environment and uses a combination 

of preventive measures to protect the grapes and 

strict control measures. These include maintaining 

the̮ integrity of the soil, pruning and managing leaf 

cover to achieve the right balance between plant 

development and yield, better light penetration 

and effective ventilation of the grapes. Woodland 

around the vineyards is also protected as an 

important ‘green lung’ for the protection of biodiversity. 

The company also makes use of renewable 

energy. In the cellar, mineral and vegetable clarifiers 

are preferred to animal products, no plastic 

is used for wine tastings and all the machines 

are powered by renewable energy. La Veneranda 

wines are mainly sold in Italy, both to the hotel and 

restaurant sectors and to private buyers, while a 

small number of bottles are exported to countries 

including the United States, Puerto Rico, Finland, 

Denmark, Holland, Luxembourg, China, Taiwan, 

the Philippines and Vietnam. 


ITALY 

ORGANIC 

ARNALDO CAPRAI 

REDISCOVERING SAGRANTINO 

MARCO CAPRAI DECIDED IN 1988 TO FOCUS ENTIRELY ON ARNALDO CAPRAI 

SOCIETÀ AGRICOLA S.R.L., OF WHICH HE IS NOW MANAGING DIRECTOR 

It was 1971 when Arnaldo Caprai, already an Umbrian 

entrepreneur in the textile sector, decided to invest 

in wine production in Montefalco. He paved the 

way for the true rediscovery of Sagrantino, with 

the current CEO Marco Caprai later ensuring this 

winery became the absolute leader. A profound 

knowledge of viticulture and love for the region are 

the common thread running through the entire 

production process. The wines stand out for their 

finesse, quality and class and show real consistency 

over time. Caprai was among the first wineries in 

Italy to adopt a regional sustainability protocol (New 

Green Revolution) and is now certified as an Equalitas 

Sustainable Organisation. Since 2020, a Sustainability 

Report has been published on the company 

website, documenting all the initiatives adopted over 

the years for its environmental, social and economic 

management. In addition to Sagrantino, the 

company grows Sangiovese and Grechetto – along 

with small blocks of Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay 

and Sauvignon – as the basis for DOC Montefalco 

Rosso and Colli Martani Grechetto respectively. Its 

top wine is Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG and most 

of its 36 vineyards, located in six different meso-climates, 

are dedicated to its production. 

Michel Rolland has been a consultant winemaker 

since 2015. Since 1989, the company has been 

working with the University of Milan in the field of 

agronomic and oenological research focusing on 

experimentation with the Sagrantino vine. Since 

2008, this collaboration has led to the development 

of 4.0 sustainable farming, based on the use of technologies 

to reduce the environmental impact and 

effects of increasingly variable weather conditions, 

and thus improve productivity. 70% of Caprai’s wines 

are sold in Italy, mainly in the hotel and restaurant 

sector. The remaining 30% is mainly exported to the 

United States and the European Union, but small 

quantities are also exported to China, Switzerland, 

Canada, Thailand and South Korea. 

Sustainability is the clear driving force aimed at 

enhancing the land and wines of Emilia-Romagna 

and Umbria. 

SAGRANTINO GRAPES ARE HISTORICALLY SUITED TO DRYING FOR THE 

PRODUCTION OF EXCELLENT SWEET RED PASSITO WINES 


63

THE CZECH REPUBLIC 

GREAT WINES FROM 

A SMALL COUNTRY 

BY DANIEL KŘÍŽ 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF THE WINERY 

FUND AND ARCHIVES OF THE 

RESPECTIVE WINERIES 

After three decades of a free-market economy, the Czech Republic is about to reach 

another milestone in its wine history. While in recent times, the local wine industry has 

always been a more or less disparate, yet in many ways co-operative, mass of competing 

businesses, over the past few months the idea of a common approach for the future has 

slowly begun to materialise. With the general support of winegrowers, the idea of a 

unified winery concept is being developed, with emphasis among others on production 

efficiency, the most suitable varieties, exports and the environment, in addition to 

the established focus on quality. After years of adolescence, a fully-fledged and selfconfident 

wine region with very promising potential is breaking onto the scene. 

THE CZECH REPUBLIC, A LAND OF PROMISE, EVEN FOR SPARKLING WINES 


CZECH REPUBLIC 

DISCOVERY 

CZECH WINE PRODUCTION HAS ONLY BEEN DEVELOPING OVER THE LAST 30 YEARS, BUT IT HAS ALWAYS BUILT ON TRADITION 

Wine has been a part of Czech culture for millennia, but the most interesting development, 

apart from its extraordinary boon in the Middle Ages, has been occurring over 

the last 30 years or so. With the fall of the Iron Curtain, the whole sector escaped the despair 

of the state-controlled economy and experienced exceptional development in a short space 

of time. While the neglected vineyards could be brought back up to speed relatively easily, 

the cellar management aspect required a complete restart. Winemakers had to buy new 

technologies for controlled fermentation very quickly and had to learn how to use them. And 

it is this technological leap, along with the safeguarded inter-generational know-how, and 

unbroken continuity of the relationship with the landscape, soil and vineyards, that started 

to turn Czech wine production into an industry where tradition meets quality. 

THE WARMEST PLACE IN THE NORTH 

The Czech Republic is split into two quite distinct wine regions: Bohemia, stretching along 

the 50th parallel with pockets of vineyards that together account for only about 4% of the 

country’s total area under vine, and Moravia, an area located in the south-eastern part of 

the country. With the 49th parallel as its backbone – very roughly akin to the Champagne 

region - the majority of local viticulture spans some 18,000 hectares producing some 

600,000 hectolitres per annum. 

The climate in the Czech Republic, as a Central European country, is unsurprisingly continental 

in nature, except for the occasional inland ‘raids’ of humid Atlantic air. Most summer 

months bring higher temperatures than normally seen at similar latitudes, a trend that has 

become more pronounced with climate change in recent years. This has a positive effect 


65


DISCOVERY 

WARM DAYS AND COLD NIGHTS DURING GRAPE RIPENING ARE THE SPICE OF CZECH WINES 

on shortening the vegetation stages of the vine 

and paves the way for relatively reliable cultivation 

of late-ripening varieties. In the Czech Republic, 

the grape ripening period is characterised by 

alternating warm and sunny days with significant 

night-time drops in temperature. This is substantially 

reflected in the aromas of white wines in 

particular, which also retain a pleasant acidity and 

bouquet. Their expression is further supported by 

the composition of the soil, which historically was 

formed on marine and freshwater sediments and 

loess. Together with the rugged topography of the 

landscape and the influence of the rivers, the soil 

and climatic conditions give rise to unique wines 

with great diversity. 

HARMONY OF FRESHNESS 

AND AROMA 

WINE PRODUCING IS A PRESTIGIOUS AND RESPECTED INDUSTRY IN THE CZECH REPUBLIC 

AND IS PERCEIVED AS A NATIONAL TREASURE 

With fewer than 20,000 hectares of vineyards, the 

Czech Republic is one of the smaller wine-producing 

countries and as such will never have the 

ambition of supplying large volumes of wine at 

low prices. Rather, it produces fairly small, special 

batches with an unmistakable Central European 

character. It is the compactness, the harmonious 

combination of full-bodied flavour with fresh 

acidity of Czech, usually varietal, dry white wines 

that is their most typical, positive characteristic, 

and the reason for exploring them. Recently, 

however, high-quality red wines have also been 

gaining ground; thanks to modern processing technologies, 

they are full-bodied and distinctive, yet 

also soft and velvety, with a pleasant fruity aroma. 

For the future, rosé wines are the trend, attractive 

not only for their colour but also for their youthful 

character, freshness and exceptional floral and 

fruity aromas. 

The relatively northern location of this producer 

country also results in a varietal range dominated 

by white varieties (approximately 72%) within a 

very broad palette, which are complemented by red 

varieties (about 28%), around a third of them used 

to produce rosé, both light and dark-coloured. The 

most common white varieties are Grüner Veltliner, 


LÉGENDES 

VINSELEKT MICHLOVSKÝ: 

GIVE THE WINE FREEDOM AND 

LEAVE AS MUCH ROOM FOR 

TERROIR EXPRESSION AS POSSIBLE 

Müller Thurgau, Riesling, Welschriesling and Pinot Gris. These five varieties, however, only 

represent just over 50% of white vineyard acreage, which reveals just how diverse the varietal 

range here is. The most widely grown red varieties are Blaufränkisch, St. Laurent, Zweigeltrebe, 

Pinot Noir and Blauer Portugieser, which total almost 80% of vineyard area planted 

to reds, leaving other red varieties in a distinct minority. Growing grapes as part of an integrated 

production system is the standard approach locally. However, there are also more 

and more wineries managing vineyards to even stricter ecological standards, i.e. producing 

organic and biodynamic wines. 

CZECH WINES PUT THROUGH THEIR PACES BY GILBERT & GAILLARD 

VINSELEKT MICHLOVSKÝ 

To give the wine freedom, take a hands-off approach wherever possible and leave as much 

room as possible for terroir in connection with the variety, is the philosophy of the founder 

and owner of this winery. It produces in the range of one million litres annually and owns 

125 hectares of vineyards and in less than thirty years has grown to become one of the largest 

wine companies in the country. The founder and driving force behind the winery, doc. Ing. 

Miloš Michlovský, DrSc., is one of the top personalities in the Czech wine industry; in addition 

to growing vines and making wine, he has also been moving the whole wine industry 

forward throughout his career. He innovates, breeds vines, gives lectures and writes technical 

books, to name a few. He has vineyards in many locations with a diverse range of soils, 

sub-soils, weather and sources of water as contributing factors. This, together with a very 


67


DISCOVERY 

VINSELEKT MICHLOVSKÝ: FOR A WIDE RANGE OF WINES, VARIETIES AND REGIONS, 

PERFECT SHOWROOMS ARE KEY 

diverse varietal range and different vine spacings, 

gives rise to a plethora of combinations for characteristics 

in the resultant wines. The search for the 

best qualities and desire to preserve and promote 

them in wine are both endless and irresistible at 

the same time. Most of the wines are dry white 

wines from Welschriesling, Pálava, Pinot Gris and 

Sauvignon matured in oak barrels, but there are 

also barrel-matured dry red wines from Pinot Noir, 

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Blaufränkisch and St. 

Laurent; traditional method sparkling wines with 

a secondary fermentation in the bottle (ageing on 

lees for 3–10 years) and Charmat method sparkling 

wines. Non-alcoholic wines complement the range. 

The winery was the first to produce these in the 

country and is a constant innovator in this regard. 

Some of the alcohol obtained during dealcoholisation 

is used by the winery to make fortified wines. 

The vineyards and cellar management combine to 

form a sophisticated ecosystem since, in addition 

to emphasis on terroir, the focal point for Vinselekt 

Michlovský is a gentle and friendly relationship with 

the natural world. Around a tenth of the winery’s 

production is organic, but environmentally-friendly 

practices are applied throughout the production 

process in terms of handling the grapes sensitively 

or using as little sulphur dioxide as possible. 

Respect for nature and its hands-off approach are 

one of the reasons why the winery is intensively 

involved in breeding resistant varieties for environmentally-driven 

viticulture. 

THAYA: THE WINERY ALSO TARGETS WINE TOURISM AND GASTRONOMY 

THAYA 

If you had to sum up the Thaya Winery in one 

word, it would probably be “dynamism”. The taste 

and tremendous energy for making extraordinary 

wines can literally be felt in every step you take in 

the winery. The initial drive behind the new winery 

– or rather transformation of what was initially a 

smaller business – was ambitious plans to build a 

winery and state-of-the-art facilities, a hotel and 

restaurant with emphasis on wine tourism and 

wine & food pairing. As the former small winery 

did not allow this, two years ago a brand new buil- 



DISCOVERY 

ding broke ground on the old winery platform with 

an annual production of around 200,000 bottles. 

The initial facilities quickly grew from 23 hectares 

to the current 105 hectares. The local vineyard sites 

have been known since the ancient Romans for 

their unique sun-facing location and the favourable 

temperature-controlling influence of the 

meandering River Thaya, which together with the 

cold winds from the northwest gives the local wines 

an unmistakable spicy taste and fullness. Although 

the local grapes ripen fairly slowly, they retain their 

aromatic substances and achieve high quality. On 

granite bedrock and loess with an admixture of 

calcareous clays, the winery is mainly dedicated to 

Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay 

and Pinot Blanc; for the red varieties, Pinot Noir, 

St. Laurent, Blaufränkisch and Zweigeltrebe are 

predominant, all primarily as dry still wines. For 

the future, the winery is also heading towards the 

‘royal discipline’ – its own sparkling wines. It uses 

both stainless steel tanks and oak barrels of various 

sizes, ages, coopers and toasts. The main credit 

for the quality of the wine goes to the thirty-oneyear-old 

Jakub Smrčka, the current recipient of the 

Czech Winemaker of the Year award. He develops 

the wine and is not afraid to experiment. In the 

winery, he is in charge of the wine from picking 

the very first grapes to the bottle being cellared. His 

unwavering commitment is that each vintage must 

be a little better than the previous one, especially 

for the higher end offerings. Through its determination, 

the winery also has an avowed ambition 

to produce the best wine in the Czech Republic. 

Currently, Thaya Winery sells wine mainly to the 

domestic market, but this year it has also established 

markets abroad, in countries such as Belgium, 

the Netherlands, Luxembourg, Denmark, Norway 

and the USA. 

THAYA: WINEMAKING ENTHUSIAST JAKUB SMRČKA IS 

ALWAYS IN A GOOD MOOD 

MAŇÁK WINERY: DELICATE WORK WITH WOOD IS THE WINERY’S SIGNATURE 

MAŇÁK WINERY 

Maňák Winery was founded – like most wineries in 

the Czech Republic – in the early 1990s. The owners 

– a married couple – continued the tradition of 

their ancestors and began to produce wine with a 


69


DISCOVERY 

philosophy based on combining modern practices with traditional methods. Today, 

the winery manages 25 hectares in three vineyards. It applies integrated production 

principles, using beneficial insects to combat pests and planting the vineyards with 

a special herbal mixture to promote biodiversity and soil quality. Maňák Winery 

produces approximately a quarter of a million bottles of appellation-only wines (70% 

white) and focuses on a great range of grape varieties (35 in all), which is very typical 

of wines in the Czech Republic. The winery’s hallmark varietal though is Sauvignon 

Blanc, which customers can find both in wood-matured and stainless steel iterations. 

It manages some 150 French barriques with an individual capacity of 225 litres for 

producing white wines, red wines (especially Pinot Noir) and even straw wines. But 

it certainly does not limit its production to wooden barrels. As the winery established 

itself in the market, it also grew in terms of facilities and technology. Today, it boasts 

the latest technology both in the vineyards and in the winery. It also has a cuttingedge 

laboratory to analyse the wine and grapes, which is already an indispensable 

part of 21st-century winemaking. This year, an impressive showroom was also added, 

where the winery presents both individual wines and popular events focused on 

pairing wines with food. Like most wineries in the Czech Republic, the domestic 

market is key and Maňák Winery distributes its wines primarily to restaurants and 

wine shops. However, direct-to-consumer sales are also buoyant. Its gradual growth 

has opened up export markets in neighbouring Poland and Slovakia. Although it is 

MAŇÁK WINERY: TWO GENERATIONS OF WINEMAKERS PROMISING TO CONTINUE THE WORK 



DISCOVERY 

still a relatively modest family business, its success 

on the domestic, and increasingly the international 

scene, shows that its development is far from 

reaching its limits. In recent history, the firm has 

achieved three world champion titles in competitions 

held under the auspices of O.I.V. 

B\V WINERY: CELLAR MASTER JIRKA TOMAN TOOK OVER THIS 

BEAUTIFUL CRAFT FROM HIS GRANDFATHER 

B\V WINERY 

Even after ten years, B\V Winery is still a relatively 

young business. It was born out of sheer joy and 

passion for wine and developed into a full-fledged 

winery over the years. There is still quite a long 

way to go, especially in the vineyards, where the 

very diverse varietal range is still largely defined 

by the state in which the vines were bought. The 

most valuable vineyards and key varieties have 

been kept and developed, whereas those that 

do not fit perfectly into the desired concept are 

gradually renewed. At present, the firm manages 

63 hectares of bearing vineyards and 12 hectares 

of new plantings. Among the 250,000 bottles 

produced annually, Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer 

and Pinot Noir are the predominant 

varieties, mainly used for producing dry, 

still appellation wines. The winery’s signature 

wines are blended – starting with the standard 

product line – on fine lees and are always bottled 

and released in the autumn of the following year. 

Riesling is the flagship varietal here and is left to 

mature in the bottle for two years longer. In fact, 

bottle ageing for the higher-end wines matured 

in French oak barrels is another characteristic of 

the winery. While drawing on the best traditions 

and winemaking experience in the Czech Republic, 

it is also looking purposefully to the future and 

further development in the form of investments 

in vineyards, technology and winery facilities, 

including an emphasis on wine tourism and stateof-the-art 

sales service. The wines are made in a 

stylishly redesigned historic building of the former 

chateau granary from the early 18th century when 

the conversion of the local chateau into the Baroque 

style reached its peak, but the winery itself is not 

just about history. B\V Winery was founded prima- 

B\V WINERY: THE VINEYARDS – OR, MORE SPECIFICALLY, THEIR LOCATIONS – 

REPRESENTED THE WINERY’S MOST VALUABLE ASSET AT THE OUTSET 


71


DISCOVERY 

rily for pleasure and therefore it is not compelled to make unwanted compromises and 

give into the pressure of business results. Thus, despite the relatively large production 

volume by national standards, the local wines will not be found in supermarket chains, 

but exclusively in places where they are generally well taken care of and where the sellers 

know how to present them properly. Although still a young business, B\V Winery’s wines 

have been successful in international competitions for a long time. 

CZECH WINEMAKING IN THE NEAR FUTURE: 

IDEALS AND IDEAS 

As 2022 transitions into 2023, the Czech Republic Union of Winegrowers, the largest 

industry body representing the majority of growers, is in the process of developing a 

long-term blueprint that will help winegrowers and winemakers face future challenges 

in a stronger, more coordinated and profitable way for at least the next 10 years. 

Winemaking, but especially viticulture, is a very long haul. A major part of vineyards in the 

Czech Republic is still designed for historical farming practices and their varietal range, to a 

large extent, continues to cater to consumer tastes of the past. Newly planted vineyards are 

also about efficiency – the sites need to be adapted to new technologies. Vine spacing, for 

instance, was historically designed to be extremely wide and suited to machines used in the 

last millennium. Changing densities will of course have a significant impact on yields and 

the production of high quality wines will increase despite the reduction in crops. Vineyard 

acreage itself is unlikely to grow apace due to planting quotas. 

WARM DAYS AND COLD NIGHTS DURING GRAPE RIPENING ARE THE SPICE OF CZECH WINES 



DISCOVERY 

MAŇÁK WINERY: MAGICAL VINEYARDS FULL OF PROMISE 

The Czech Republic is only about one-third self-sufficient in wine. This of course has a 

significant impact on prices, especially for cheaper wines – a small national winery can 

never fully compete with large-scale, cheap imports. The raw material here is simply too 

rare for the resultant wine to sell for two or three euros. Winemakers will certainly focus 

even more on the production of higher quality wines, which, despite higher production 

costs, will be more profitable. The raw material will be more abundant given more efficient 

new plantings, and therefore an increase in export interest can also be expected. 

CZECH WINES HAVE REACHED MATURITY 

AND ARE ON THEIR WAY INTO THE WORLD 

Export ambitions are somewhat hamstrung by the very wide range of varieties. However, 

this too will undergo considerable changes through new plantings. Winemakers heading 

to Western Europe are not the only ones to have started switching their varieties to the 

most characteristic and best-suited ones in each region because only high quality, individuality 

and uniqueness can bring success faced with extremely strong international 

competition. All of this goes hand in hand with a strong emphasis on an environmental 

approach to farming and production, including an even higher proportion of resistant 

varieties. 

Wines from the Czech Republic will be increasingly present in European restaurants 

and wine shops and at least elementary knowledge of them will be a prerequisite in 

any advanced wine company. The Czech Republic has undoubtedly reached a very solid 

level in terms of winegrowing, but its development is far from over. As emerging plans 

and visions for the next decades bring new promises, it will be important to follow their 

implementation. Watch this space… 


73

HOW THE BREEDE RIVER VALLEY 

TELLS ITS STORY THROUGH WINE 

TOURISM 

BY SAMARIE SMITH-MELETIOU 

DIPWSET 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


South Africa’s burgeoning wine tourism sector sprouts from Cape wineries 

willing to embrace change, and constantly exploring innovative ways to adapt. 

Its picturesque landscape spurs visitors to discover its wine routes, and the Breede 

River Valley is close enough to Cape Town for city dwellers to immerse themselves 

in its countryside hospitality for a day. 

WITH SANDSTONE AS THE MOTHER SOIL AT DTK, GREAT DIURNAL TEMPERATURE RANGES CONTRIBUTE TO WINES WITH PHENOMENAL 

FRUIT PURITY AND FRESHNESS 


SOUTH AFRICA 

VINEYARDS 

BON COURAGE IS HOME TO ELEGANT CAP CLASSIQUE WINES THAT OWE THEIR CHARACTER TO LIME-RICH SOILS 

What moulded the South African landscape as an excellent wine producing 

country is its geographical wealth of soil, mountains and valleys, creating 

micro and meso climates within its predominantly Mediterranean climate. The 

wine industry extends from the Olifants River in the North to the blue-green spectacle 

of mountains framing the Cape South Coast and Coastal regions. Moving 

inland, the red rocky peaks of the Klein Karoo reveal vast plains bedecked in 

vineyards. Although the Breede River Valley is poised in the centre, it has shed the 

middle-child notion, excelling in its diversity of styles and price points. 

After three centuries of refining its viticulture, no vine is planted in vain. South 

African winegrowing regions are confidently celebrating terroir. They have learned 

to embrace the gift of abundant sunshine, with numerous awards debunking the 

belief that vast, warmer appellations produce homogenous wines. Many, if not all, 

especially the Breede River Valley, have booted these assumptions, rising to the 

podium with elegant, world-class wines. 

THE EXPECTED, AND THE UNEXPECTED 

Mountains abound in the Breede River Valley, with various scenic routes leading 

here. Home to various co-ops and bulk-producing wine facilities, wineries located 

in its production areas, namely Breedekloof, Robertson and Worcester, have also 

successfully positioned themselves as leading producers of award-winning Chardonnay, 

Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadel. Fortifying their strengths and the confidence 

in what they offer makes them a sought-after supplier of grapes to other 


75

DTK WAS FOUNDED IN 1962 AS A 

CO-OPERATIVE FOR BULK WINE 

PRODUCTION AND CELEBRATED 

ITS 60 TH BIRTHDAY THIS YEAR 

wine producing areas in the Cape. Additionally, the Breedekloof Makers Initiative, 

founded eight years ago by the younger winemakers, has also seen great success 

in promoting Chenin Blanc as a local value proposition. 

From Cape Town international airport, the route cuts through the Huguenot 

tunnel, with motorists passing the belly of the towering Du Toitskloof mountains 

through this impressive tunnel built by Italian prisoners of war between 1942 and 

1945. The tunnel was completed in 1948, providing a safer journey between Paarl 

and Worcester than facing the treacherous Du Toitskloof Pass. Needless to say, 

majestic, often misty mountain views await travellers on the other side, its winter 

snowcaps contesting the argument of a «warm» region, followed by waterfalls 

meandering down its slopes in spring. Not far from here, Du Toitskloof Wines 

(TDK) awaits. 

Ed Beukes, export and marketing manager, explains how they have shifted the 

brand focus to DTK, of which Du Toitskloof is now one of its brands, along with 

Lands End and Quest. “Our strategy is to offer consumers something expected, like 

Chenin Blanc, and something completely unexpected like Nebbiolo.” 

As an ode to the Italian prisoners of war, this Italian cultivar has found its home 

in this valley, scoring a whopping 90 points from Gilbert & Gaillard’s expert wine 

tasting panel. The Du Toitskloof Nebbiolo 2020 is one of six varietal Nebbiolos 

found in South Africa, deeper in colour as one would expect from an Italian 

Nebbiolo with softer, lighter tannins and a seductive medley of red fruit and florals. 

“We love that it challenges people’s perception of the valley,” Beukes continues. 

Thirty years after its inception in 1962, DTK entered the packaged wine sector, 

following three decades of building a reputation for consistent quality. They main- 


ED BEUKES, EXPORT 

AND MARKETING MANAGER 

AT DTK 


77


VINEYARDS 

tained this momentum and purchased Land’s End in 2016 (fruit from the Cape 

South Coast), making them the largest seller of Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc 

in the country. 

“From producing 600,000 litres of Du Toitskloof Chenin Blanc to a mere 

2,500 litres of the Quest Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2020 (scoring 95 points at the 

IWSC) affirms our versatility. These old vines were planted in 1985. We invite 

visitors to learn more about our philosophy through an immersive cellar door 

experience at our newly refurbished tasting room”. 

THE HEART OF THE SOUTH AFRICAN WINE INDUSTRY 

Entering the valley from Worcester en route to Robertson, Overhex Wines has 

anchored itself as a heavy-weight producer in a short time since the owner and 

executive chairman, Gerhard van der Wath, founded Overhex in 2006. With brands 

punching at different price points in local and international markets, they have 

recently pioneered a new certified category for South Africa: Orange Sparkling 

Wine, naming the range, Get Lost. For their premium wine range, Survivor, they 

source grapes from Swartland, Elgin and Stellenbosch. According to Overhex cellar 

master Ben Snyman, the valley’s geographical assets are phenomenal in creating 

a canvas of styles. 

GERHARD VAN DER WATH, EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN 

AND FOUNDER OF OVERHEX WINES 

BEN SNYMAN, CELLAR MASTER 

AT OVERHEX WINES 



VINEYARDS 

“The mountains and valleys create meso and 

microclimates that will contest any assumption 

of a homogenous valley. The Breede River Valley 

produces 690,000 tons from 32,400 hectares, so 

one can truly regard the valley as the heart of the 

South African wine industry. The character of the 

soils changes over small distances, and one only 

needs to look at the diverse Chenin Blanc styles 

to know that the wineries are playing to their 

strengths.” 

Overhex’s Balance range is a commercial phenomenon, 

focusing on thiol-driven white wines. As 

for reds, they experiment with oak alternatives to 

build texture into the wines. 

“Our natural sweet range is a stepping stone for 

new wine drinkers while our classic range offers 

wine with berry, rather than sugar richness, 

coaxing consumers into trying different wines.” 

NUY CATERS TO FAMILIES AS ONE OF MANY DRAWING CARDS IN THE VALLEY 

INTERACTIVE CELLAR DOOR EXPERIENCES ARE PART AND PARCEL 

OF CAPE WINE ROUTES, LIKE AT NUY ON THE HILL 

OFF THE TRADITIONAL WINE 

TRACK 

Further up the valley, it is impossible not to notice 

Nuy on the Hill. 

“It was a strategic decision to move the tasting 

room to this highly visible location where approximately 

8,500 cars pass by in peak season,” shares 

Christo Pienaar, the cellar master at Nuy Winery 

and chair of the South African National Wine 

Show Association. 

Situated at the foot of the Langeberg Mountain 

with annual rainfall of less than 200 mm, the 

Keerom dam is the saving grace, feeding 800 

hectares of farmland. It is the largest of its sort in 

South Africa, boosted by melting snow in spring 

to ensure a year-round supply of water. 

“We have to be mindful with water management. 

To mitigate climate change, we have also undertaken 

new planting areas in gorges higher up the 

mountain. Besides contributing to slow ripening, 

the mountains influence the wind and rain 

patterns. Every afternoon, the South Easter wind 

is guaranteed to blow from around 4:30 pm until 

about 8:30 pm, presenting a cooling effect that 

keeps the vineyards healthy.” 


79


VINEYARDS 

CHARDONNAY THRIVES ON THE LIME-RICH SOILS FOUND IN THE ROBERTSON VALLEY 

Nuy has also benefited from the surge in wine 

tourism, and since building the restaurant on the 

hill seven years ago, traffic has doubled. 

“Everyone in the valley benefits from this renewed 

interest in wineries off the traditional wine track, 

and it created a platform to review our price 

points. We offer visitors various price points and 

aim to persuade them with packaging and different 

wine styles to try something new.” 

With only 3% of the cellar’s total annual production 

of 10,000 tons bottled under the Nuy label, 

Pienaar agrees that the Breede River Valley is a 

bonafide supplier of sought-after grapes to other 

wine regions. 

“The Nuy Valley as a ward basks in the same Chardonnay 

limelight as Robertson, with a rich bank 

of limestone originating at Nuy, travelling all the 

way to Robertson.” 

They have joined the rosé revolution in time for the 

South African summer, and with Muscadel, which 

is now also exported in cans, it is a guaranteed hit. 

“It is important to be recognised for something 

unique. Most of the time, visitors leave with 

Chenin and Muscadel, and it pleases me to say 

that craft gin has paved the way for consumers to 

explore our pot still brandy.” 

BAG IN BOX TO BEAUTIFUL 

BUBBLY 

ROBERTSON WINERY WILL SOON LAUNCH A NEW UNDERGROUND WINE EXPERIENCE FOR 

WINE TOURISTS 

The Robertson wine district triumphs Chardonnay, 

from big producers to boutique wineries sharing 

the success. 

Rianco van Rooyen, cellar master at Robertson 

Winery, confirms that they supply many wine 

farms beyond the Breede River Valley borders. 

With an 81-year narrative, they were the first 

to certify bag in box in the 90s, and Van Rooyen 

comfortably reiterated the volumes produced of 

each cultivar, equating to 47,000 tons, all wine of 

origin Robertson. 

“We manage 100 lines with the motto “More to 

Share” with different styles and price points. We 

want to be everyone’s wine.” 

Lingering longer in Robertson will undoubtedly 


BON COURAGE 

CELLAR MASTER, 

JACQUES BRUWER, 

AND WINEMAKER 

PHILIP VILJOEN 

include a visit to Bon Courage Wine Estate, much smaller in size with an annual crush of 6,000 

tons. Here, they have honed in on the intrinsic value of individual vineyard pockets producing 

exceptional quality. The winemaker, Philip Viljoen, believes there are more discoveries to be 

made and that the past decade has brought about the renewed intention of illustrating terroir. 

“I follow a house style for each cultivar, and fortuitously, judging by the sales, it appeals to 

the consumer! I am very grateful for that, but one can never become complacent, especially 

regarding Cap Classique.” 

The Jacques Bruére Brut Reserve 2013 is a testament to that, scoring 91 points from Gilbert & 

Gaillard. 

“It endorses our objective to pursue the absolute best quality, and we subsequently acquired 

more land to realise our full potential. We want to create wines that exude individuality within 

a diverse profile that satisfies different market segments. We have the privilege of ageing our 

Cap Classique on the lees for a significant period before releasing it”. You will have to search 

far and wide to find an elegant vintage Cap Classique aged 48 – 60 months and available at this 

price (R230), offering a beautiful richness, fine mousse and lively acidity. They offer a nougat 

and Cap Classique tasting as a fun way to explore the range. 

FAMILY TRADITIONS 

Travelling through Robertson down a tree-lined road brings you to the door of Weltevrede 

Jonker Family Wine Estate, situated in the Bonnievale ward of Robertson. Here, a profound 

wine tourism experience awaits as an ode to French Champagne that subsequently led to 

South Africa creating its own category of sparkling wine made in the traditional method: 


81


VINEYARDS 

VISITORS TO WELTEVREDE CAN IMMERSE 

THEMSELVES IN THE HISTORY OF 

WINEMAKING BEFORE LUNCH AT THE 

RESTAURANT CALLED KAPOKBOS 

A CURATED EXPERIENCED AWAITS AT WELTEVREDE 

Cap Classique. Curated educational experiences 

introduce their wines in a global context of wine 

history, Champagne and the emergence of South 

Africa’s own Cap Classique category. Visitors can 

also indulge in a hands-on experience, followed 

by lunch. 

Proprietor-winemaker Philip Jonker has been 

committed to making Cap Classique since the 

beginning of his winemaking career. Still, it was 

time for refreshment after 110 years, he says. 

“We were ready to materialise the vision we’ve 

created in our mind’s eye. Weltevrede is arguably 

the longest-existing family wine brand in South 

Africa, with a captivating story that needed to be 

told more interactively. As custodians, we must 

share our fascination with our terroir in a way that 

conveys the wonder, the attention to detail, and 

the humility,” Jonker explains. 

The arid limestone geology of this Bonnievale-Robertson 

terroir laid the foundation for their pursuit 

of excellence, creating Chardonnay with a distinct 

lime-like vibrance and minerally aftertaste. 

Their serious pursuit for quality Chardonnay was 

acknowledged by Gilbert & Gaillard, scoring The 

Poet’s Prayer 2021 a well-deserved 92 points, and 

both the Place of Rocks 2021 and The Ring Brut 

scored 91 points. 

“The broken shale slopes with calcrete deposits on 

Weltevrede bear complex and elegant Chardonnays. 

We have an Old World style, creating Cap 

Classique with a pure, crystalline clarity. Stylistically, 

we regard the Calcrete Chardonnay in the 

same context as Chablis, our Place of Rocks Chardonnay 

in the league of a good Meursault, while 

with the Poet’s Prayer, we aspire to the intrigue like 

a Grand Cru from the Côte de Beaune.” 

Weltevrede launched its first Philip Jonker Brut 

Cap Classique 26 vintages ago when Jonker 

bewedded his bride, Lindelize. It was also the 

first wine he made at Weltevrede and serves as a 

constant reminder and celebration of their bond 

of love. 

The Poet’s Prayer is made from a small selection 

of old vines on lime-rich soils that offers 

that ethereal balance they are after, with intensity 

and complexity wrapped up in a luminous 



VINEYARDS 

mineral gloss. The grapes were hand-picked, 

whole-bunch pressed and fermented in 228-litre 

Burgundian barrels before the wine was matured 

on its lees. The fruit for Place of Rocks hails from 

the slope where the vines are anchored in shale. 

It fermented in a combination of 1st, 2nd and 3rd 

fill barrels and spent eight months on the lees 

with regular batonage. The result is a wine with 

mouth-watering acidity and a long, limy finish. 

MARTHINUS RADEMEYER, PRODUCTION MANAGER AT BONNIEVALE WINERY 

A VALLEY OF PASSIONATE 

FARMERS 

Bonnievale Winery is also situated in this last ward 

of the Breede River Valley. Marthinus Rademeyer 

started here in 2009 as an assistant winemaker 

and today fulfils the role of production manager 

overseeing four premises within an 8 km territory, 

including Wandsbeck (Wine of Origin Robertson) 

“While 90% of the wine produced here is destined 

for bulk wine, we also experiment with smaller 

pockets. We broke through the bulk stigma when 

our Bonnievale The River Collection 2022 was 

awarded an FNB Top 10 accolade earlier this 

year. Our wines offer that mouth-filling tropical 

fruit pungency while it is hemmed with a slight 

herbaceous tone that adds freshness.” 

From the 30,000 tons of grapes supplied to 

them by “passionate farmers” from an enormous 

playing field of 100 km by 50 km, 50% of the wines 

produced are exported. Their offering attracted 

the attention of French and American importers, 

with the likes of New Zealand and Senegal now 

also pursuing their wines. 

Rademeyer affirms: “We really have a plethora of 

North and South-facing slopes to choose from, 

vineyards planted in different directions and cultivars 

that are blissfully happy on the best-suited 

soils. It is all about balance and finding that sweet 

spot. And as soon as the white stinkwood trees 

outside the tasting room are embellished with 

lush canopies in summer, visitors gather here for 

pizza and delicious wines. Ultimately, it is the 

pleasure of drinking that the consumer is after.” 

THE BONNIEVALE WINERY WINEMAKING TEAM 


83

HEADING OFF FOR PORTUGAL 

AND ITS NATIVE RED GRAPE 

VARIETIES 

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


With 250 native grape varieties, Portugal is enough to make other producer 

countries go green with envy. Comparing them with international standards is 

like comparing apples and oranges and just-burgeoning awareness means that 

they remain largely under the public’s radar. Heading off to explore Portugal’s 

vine heritage is like stepping into the shoes of a treasure hunter, away from the 

well-trodden vinous paths. 

BAGA IS PRIMARILY GROWN IN THE BAIRRADA REGION IN PORTUGAL 


PORTUGAL 

GRAPES 

HARVESTING IN JOÃO PORTUGAL RAMOS’ VINEYARDS IS MOSTLY DONE BY HAND 

I 

n addition to its myriad native grape varieties, Portugal also boasts a winegrowing 

culture that dates back to Antiquity along with extremely varied 

vineyard sites. In fact, for many years, older generations valued the soils where the 

grapes came from more than the grape variety itself. The varieties resided together 

naturally in the vineyards and sometimes winegrowers did not even know which 

grapes they farmed. The soils had greater significance and of course, Portugal has 

a real tradition of blending. 

As the New World wine countries have emerged, market trends have evolved and 

a taste for single-varietal wines began to gain traction, piquing the curiosity of 

Portuguese producers. They started taking a closer look at their grape varieties, 

particularly the native iterations, and fermenting them separately. Fortunately, 

the art of blending in the country has been preserved – most Portuguese wines 

are blends – but thanks, inter alia, to new-found knowledge of the plants, it has 

reached levels of perfection worthy of the finest wines. 


85

PORTUGAL 

GRAPES 

VICTOR DAMIÃO, CHAIRMAN OF THE ADEGA DE CANTANHEDE 

CO-OPERATIVE 

Native grape varieties now play their part in the 

great variety of Portuguese wine styles. As they 

cannot all be presented, we have selected four of 

the most renowned varieties for red wines – Baga, 

Touriga Franca, Aragonez, and the most famous 

of them all, Touriga Nacional. And who better to 

speak about them than the wineries who grow and 

vint them? 

BAGA, A DIAMOND IN THE 

ROUGH 

THE WINERY HAS BAGA VINES OVER 90 YEARS OLD 

The typical variety of the Barraida region where, in 

the past, it accounted for nearly 90% of the varietal 

range, Baga is not an easy grape variety to work 

with. Despite this, some producers have successfully 

leveraged its aromatic potential through their 

efforts and perfectionism. It is now selected to 

produce quality wines. 

To find out a little more about the variety, we met 

up with a prominent co-operative in the Bairrada 

appellation in the Centre-West of the country, 

Adega de Cantanhede. It also happens to be the 

first bodega to win a gold medal for a Portuguese 

wine entirely made from a native grape variety in 

an international competition in 1997. No prizes for 

guessing which grape variety! 

The co-operative, which boasts Baga vines over 90 

years old, has for several years made it its mission 

to preserve this heritage and promote these vines 

with their limited yields which thrive on the 

region’s clay-limestone soils. “Limestone promotes 

good soil drainage and retains heat, expediting the 

ripening process and controlling acidity and therefore 

the astringency of the tannins”, explains the 

winery’s winemaker Osvaldo Amado. “Also, clay 

retains water during the hottest summer days, 

so that we don’t have to use irrigation. It also 

helps produce more balanced wines with more 

pronounced density”. 

The region’s gentle rolling countryside and the 

location of the vineyards, some twenty kilometres 

from the coast, have also driven quality winegrowing. 

“The cool temperatures and frequent 

morning fog from the Atlantic reach the most 


OSVALDO AMADO, HEAD 

WINEMAKER AT ADEGA DE 

CANTANHEDE 


87

THE TEAM AT ADEGA DE CANTANHEDE: 

OSVALDO AMADO, VICTOR DAMIÃO, 

MARIA MIGUEL MANÃO, ALBINO 

COSTA AND IVO SILVA 

inland parts of the area, promoting balanced ripening even during the hottest summer 

days”. Rainfall towards the end of the season, however, can have harmful consequences 

for the grape variety which, with its particularly thin skins, is very prone to grey mould or 

Botrytis Cinerea. Fortunately, there are environmentally-friendly solutions and they are 

increasingly used. They include grass cover – where cover crops are grown between the 

vine rows – meticulous, intermittent leaf removal and early harvesting. Baga also needs 

a little attention in the winery, admits the winemaker. The berries, which are naturally 

rich in tannins, are entirely destemmed at the winery to ensure softness in the wines. 

This is followed by alcoholic fermentation at 28°C and gentle maceration, where the 

rack-and-return process is the favoured option. Maturation is nearly always conducted 

in French oak casks which polishes Baga’s firm tannins. The red wines produced from the 

variety can be ranked among the Portuguese wines with the longest cellaring capacity, 

adds Amado. “They mature elegantly and fully retain their character for several decades”. 

Another of the variety’s features is most certainly its versatility. Baga is used by the 

winemakers at Adega de Cantanhede to make deeply coloured red wines, with vibrant 

aromas of wild berries and black plum, boasting crisp acidity. Incorporating the nobility 

of French oak to perfection, they reveal notes of coffee, dried grass, tobacco and 

smoke. But that’s not all! Baga also comes in a variety of wine styles, from rosés, ‘blancs 

de noirs’ and other sparkling wines to fortified offerings. These sell equally well in the 

domestic market and abroad, where sales are booming. This is one treasure that should 

be explored posthaste! 


JOÃO PORTUGAL RAMOS 

WITH HIS SON JOÃO MARIA, ALSO 

A WINEMAKER, AND FILIPA, HIS 

DAUGHTER WHO WORKS 

IN MARKETING 

JOÃO PORTUGAL 

RAMOS’ TEAM 

TOURIGA FRANCA, 

EASY TO GROW, BUT COMPLEX ON THE PALATE 

Previously known as Touriga Francesa – despite the fact that there is no connection with 

France – this grape variety is one of the most widely grown in Portugal. It is an easy 

variety to work with and thrives on schist soils with low fertility, explains winemaker 

João Maria Portugal Ramos. He is the son of João Portugal Ramos, one of Portugal’s most 

internationally renowned winemakers, who has made a significant contribution to the 

reputation of Portuguese wines over the past twenty years. João Portugal Ramos and his 

team now produce wines in four regions across the country but they grow Touriga Franca 

in the Douro and Alentejo regions. João Maria Portugal Ramos admits, though, that 

the best results are obtained in the Douro Superior, where the weather is hot and dry. 

This native variety is resistant to water stress and uses its leaves to protect its clusters 

from direct sunlight. With its long growing season and moderate yields, it can be 

harvested by hand or machine. But on this particular estate, the Touriga Franca grapes 

are generally picked by hand. Touriga Franca produces very structured, complex wines 

with lots of volume on the palate. These features are essential for producing high quality 

Port, explains João Maria Portugal Ramos. The variety is therefore used to produce the 

storied Portuguese fortified wine, but not just for that. Blended with other grape varieties, 

it forms the basis for several other estate reds. “It is a good age-worthy variety but 

must be blended with a variety with higher acidity to produce the best ageing potential”. 


89

PORTUGAL 

GRAPES 

JOSÉ JOAQUIM MORAIS ROCHA, THE ESTATE’S FOUNDER 

Here, the wines are matured in tanks and wood. 

Those made from Touriga Franca are very deeply 

coloured and offer up delicate, intense aromas of 

wild flowers, violet, red fruits and dried spices, 

yielding powerful but elegant pours. 

ARAGONEZ, THE WELL-SUITED 

NEXT-DOOR NEIGHBOUR 

MORAIS ROCHA COMBINES ARTISANAL SKILLS WITH 

CUTTING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY 

Aragonez is none other than the star variety of 

Rioja and Ribera del Duero, Tempranillo, under its 

Portuguese name. It is also known as Tinta Roriz in 

the Douro Valley. In Alentejo, located near Lisbon, 

it is one of the ten most widely grown grape varieties. 

“Aragonez is a grape variety that adjusts well 

to different soil types and climates, but to produce 

outstanding quality, sandy and clay-limestone 

soils in hot, dry climates need to be favoured. 

This leads to smaller, more concentrated berries”, 

explains Nelson Rolo, the head winemaker at 

bodega Morais Rocha, which has 18 hectares of 

vines in Vidigueira, approximately 200 km from 

the capital in the southern part of the country. 

For the Alentejo winery, this red variety plays a 

pivotal role because it is used to make sparkling 

and rosé wines, and of course Reserva reds. For 

the reds, the fruit is picked by machine at night in 

order to preserve freshness, whereas for the other 

styles, the grapes are picked by hand. Aragonez is 

an early-ripening variety and therefore one of the 

first to be harvested, explains Rolo. “Emphasis is 

placed on acidity and the right pH level” 

As soon as the fruit arrives in the winery, it 

undergoes cold (7°C) pre-fermentation soaking to 

promote aromatic intensity in the must. Aragonez 

is used in blends with other grape varieties that 

complement each other. “I particularly like the 

combination of Trincadeira, Alicante Bouschet 

and Cabernet”, admits the winemaker. Wines from 

Aragonez are very elegant and dense with substantial 

structure on the palate. They reveal notes 

of blackberries, plums and black fruits along with 

a faint spicy, cinnamon-dominant touch. They are 

very popular and boast great ageability, selling 

both domestically and internationally. 


ANA MORAIS ROCHA, 

THE FOUNDER’S DAUGHTER, 

NOW MANAGES THE ESTATE 


91

THE ESTATE HAS BELONGED TO THE SANTOS LIMA FAMILY FOR FIVE GENERATIONS 

JOSÉ LUÍS SANTOS LIMA NOW RUNS THE NAMESAKE BODEGA 

TOURIGA NACIONAL, 

A WELL-DESERVED HIGH REPUTATION 

This is indeed, Portugal’s best known grape variety, used to make its storied Ports, but 

also the country’s finest red wines. Although it is well-established in the Douro Valley, 

it is also grown in Alentejo and in the Dão region in central Portugal, where before the 

phylloxera outbreak it covered 90% of vineyard area. 

Even though it produces low yields – which is often a guarantee of quality – Touriga 

Nacional is a late-ripening variety, making it less prone to spring frosts. It is also particularly 

resistant to the heat and fungal diseases, particularly powdery mildew, due to 

its thick skins. These positive viticultural attributes combine with its substantial versatility. 

At the family-run estate Casa Santos Lima, which produces wines in five regions 

across Portugal, it is used for producing and blending red wines but also rosés and 

sparkling wines. Touriga Nacional boasts good ageability and delivers darkly coloured 

and very tannic, powerful and structured wines. Displaying great aromatic complexity, 

they offer varied aromas of black fruits, leather, graphite, violet and cacao. 

Touriga Nacional-based wines are intense and fruity and appeal to audiences far and 

wide, and not just in Portugal. Most of Casa Santos Lima’s wines are in fact sold internationally, 

explains manager José Luis Santos Lima. The variety itself has also been 

exported and is now grown in Australia and California, for instance, where it seems to 

be increasingly gaining traction. Climate change has strengthened the appeal of this 

aromatic and robust variety in recent years. In the vineyards of Bordeaux, for instance, 

it is being grown on an experimental basis. Watch this space… 


GARCÍA CARRIÓN, 

BLAZING A PATH OF ITS OWN 

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF THE COMPANY 

How did a bodega, founded in 1890 in Jumilla – perhaps Spain’s most under-the-radar 

wine region – to produce wines for France, then in the throes of phylloxera, become 

Europe’s leading winery by sales and the fourth largest in the world in just 130 years? 

Its director, José García Carrión, recounts the incredible story of this exceptional company. 

JOSÉ GARCÍA CARRIÓN, DIRECTOR OF GARCÍA CARRIÓN 

LÉGENDES 


93

SPAIN 

FOCUS 

José García Carrión has helmed the family-run 

company since 1968 and played a part in its 

exponential growth worldwide. Its wines, now 

produced in twelve Spanish appellations, are 

marketed across the globe. 

JAUME SERRA, THE BODEGA IN VILANOVA I LA GELTRÚ IN CATALONIA, WHERE THE 

FAMOUS CAVA IS MADE 

How do you explain the success of your bodega? 

García Carrión has always blazed the trail with 

its revolutionary projects. Through hard work 

and diligence, this has enabled us to become the 

leading winery in Europe and to win over consumers. 

“Constant revolution” is how we define 

our business model. From the outset, we have 

sought to innovate and implement new initiatives, 

but with one very clear rule – we put the 

consumer at the core of our business strategy. 

We relentlessly strive to meet their demands and 

satisfy their needs with our products, which are 

renowned for their quality. 

FIVE SUCCESSIVE GENERATIONS HAVE BEEN AT THE HELM OF THE FAMILY-RUN COMPANY 

GARCÍA CARRIÓN 

Could you share two or three landmark events 

that have shaped the company’s history and 

contributed to its success? 

Over the course of our history, we have risen 

to quite a few challenges, from our humble beginnings 

through to conquering over 150 countries... 

There is no doubt that one of our greatest 

moments was the launch of Don Simón, Spain’s 

first wine in Tetra pak format at the start of 

the 1980s. At that time, the most widely used 

container for young wine was the one-litre 

returnable bottle. To meet national demand, 

we needed several production centres in Spain. 

Tetra pak offers a practical, economical and 

lightweight non-returnable container and we 

were therefore able to meet this demand whilst 

also providing quality wine. Subsequently, we 

diversified our business by grouping different 

products – juices, fruit nectars, sangria, etc. 

– under the single brand, Don Simón. In 1997, 

the acquisition of Jaume Serra – currently the 

only fine Cava in Spanish hands – marked our 

first step towards expanding across Spain. Now 

we have a presence in 12 designations of origin 

where we make prestigious wines that display 

site-expressiveness. 


SINCE ITS INCEPTION, 

THE COMPANY HAS FOCUSED 

ON SUSTAINABILITY 

The company actually markets several brands, some of them spanning several 

appellations… 

Yes, this is a pioneering approach in the wine industry. With Pata Negra, we have 

brought together several designations of origin under one brand, which is now 

present in the DOs Jumilla, Ribera del Duero, Rioja, La Mancha, Rueda, Toro, 

Cava and Valdepeñas. This has facilitated García Carrión’s international development 

because we have been able to export wines from different DOs under a 

single name. This has made it easier for us to secure greater awareness outside 

Spain. 

Behind this variety, are there common traits that represent the hallmark of 

García Carrión? 

Absolutely. All García Carrión wines have one common denominator – quality. 

Our family comes from generations of farmers and we have a strong commitment 

to the land and its products. This is why we constantly make it our mission to 

ensure that our business has as little impact as possible on the environment, and 

even a positive impact. That is our pledge. 

This year, extreme heat and very little rain during the summer and autumn 

defined the season. How did the harvest go? Was it early? What will the 2022 

vintage be like? 

This year we started harvesting at the end of August with the early varieties. 

Despite the heat, the quality of the grapes is very good. We are very happy with 

the results and we have very high expectations for the quality of the wine. 


95

SPAIN 

FOCUS 

The company has chosen to go down the sustainable route. When did you make this 

pledge and how does it translate to your present-day wine business? 

We depend directly on the land to make our products, so we have to take care 

of it, and we have done so since our inception. We market organic wines, such 

as our Pata Negra Apasionado Orgánico or our Jaume Serra Cava Brut Orgánico. 

We also work with zero-kilometre products and have long-term agreements with 

more than 40,000 farmers, which enables us to guarantee the finest raw materials. 

García Carrión is also rolling out plans for all of its production centres in 

Spain to use the energy they produce. Each facility will have its own photovoltaic 

equipment covering 30% of its energy needs. Another example is our Jaume 

Serra Cavas, which are bottled in lighter bottles – we have reduced their weight to 

800 grams (12% less) – and our wine bottles are up to 5% lighter than others. Also, 

particularly for white wines, we harvest by night. This ensures that the grapes are 

cooler when they enter the vats, preventing oxidation and loss of aroma, but also 

removing the energy costs incurred from lowering the temperature in the vats, as 

these varieties require low-temperature fermentation. 

Your wines are sold in about a hundred countries around the world. Which are your 

biggest importers and what are your newest markets? 

Our overseas activity is a fundamental part of our business strategy. García Carrión 

is present in over 150 countries. Europe is our local market and the real international 

market is the two Americas, Asia and Africa, where people enjoy the taste of our 

GARCÍA CARRIÓN COMBINES ARTISANAL METHODS WITH THE LATEST TECHNOLOGICAL INNOVATIONS 


SPAIN 

FOCUS 

THE ACQUISITION OF THE JAUME SERRA WINERY MARKED A TURNING POINT IN THE COMPANY’S HISTORY 

wines. Our expertise and international experience have ensured that the specific 

features of each Spanish region reach out to a global audience. Generally speaking, 

the USA, the UK and Africa generate the highest growth for us. 

You have helped strengthen the presence of Spanish wine in international markets. 

But do you feel there is there still some way to go before it is fully recognised? 

Absolutely. The Spanish wine industry, whose prestige has been constantly growing, 

has undergone a step-change in recent years. However, we need to continue our 

efforts to ensure that the quality and expertise of our products continue to make 

a lasting impression. We have a challenge to meet and that is to win the hearts of 

young people who have not yet entered the world of wine. At García Carrión, we are 

developing our product portfolio to meet the demands and needs of this segment. 

Do you have any current projects that you would like to share with our readers? 

We have recently developed wine tourism at our Viña Arnáiz winery in Ribera del 

Duero. Our guests can visit the bodega and discover how our wines are made, step 

by step, in one of Spain’s most prestigious designations of origin. They also have the 

opportunity to enjoy a wine tasting, while discovering the use of technology and 

the benefits of 4.0 viticulture. Viña Arnáiz is a historic winery that stands out for 

its innovative approach. Respect for the natural winemaking process is at its core, 

but it also incorporates cutting-edge technology to produce wines of the highest 

quality. Its vineyards are grown using the Viticulture 4.0 method, which uses digital 

resources to monitor the development and ripening of the grapes so that the best 

decisions can be made during the winemaking process. This is a glimpse of tomorrow’s 

viticulture that should not be missed... 


97

MÉDOC CRUS ARTISANS 

IN THE LIMELIGHT 

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


Navigating amongst the shadows cast on them by the Grands Crus Classés and 

the Crus Bourgeois, it could seem that Médoc Crus Artisans suffer from a lack 

awareness. But these often long-standing, boutique estates spread across all 

the Médoc appellations in the world’s most famous wine region focus on siteexpressiveness 

and most certainly deserve a visit. 

SOPHIE BRUN AND HER FATHER JEAN-PIERRE AT THE MARKET ALONG THE BORDEAUX QUAYSIDE 

ON A SUNDAY MORNING 


BORDEAUX 

DISCOVERY 

PATRICE BELLY IN THE WINERY AT CHÂTEAU TOUR BEL AIR 

From the shores of the Atlantic Ocean to the outskirts of Bordeaux, the Médoc 

boasts an exceptional location, felicitous ocean climate and unique soils. On the 

left bank of the Garonne, its 8 appellations, including two sub-regional AOCs, Médoc 

and Haut-Médoc, and 6 village-designated appellations – Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac, 

Saint-Julien, Moulis-en-Médoc, Listrac-Médoc and Margaux –cover 16,000 hectares 

of world-class vineyards. Within this storied region with its legendary and characterful 

labels, Médoc Crus Artisans have also made their mark with a new-found drive 

over the past 35 years. The term ‘Cru Artisan’ stems from a classification which, until 

the 19th century, made a distinction between the ‘Crus Bourgeois’, ‘Crus Paysans’ and 

‘Crus Artisans’ within the region, based on the social status of the vineyard owner. 

Some of them stemmed from a secondary line of business of local craftsmen, from 

the cooper to the wheelwright and the blacksmith. The term could at the time be 

occasionally pejorative and not very rewarding, but it has since evolved and led 

to the emergence of a quality endorsement. In 1989, the Crus Artisans du Médoc 

producers’ organisation spearheaded an initiative to regulate the Cru Artisan designation 

and secure recognition under European law. Five years later, the European 

Commission officialised the designation by including it on the list of protected 

traditional statements, allowing it to be featured on bottles. Each applicant for the 

8 Médoc appellations must therefore comply with strict specifications in order to be 

awarded the coveted designation for five years. It is attributed to small and mediumsized 

independent farms, where the person at the helm takes part in every task in 

the vineyard and the winery, right through to marketing and management as the 

decision-maker at every level. “The specific feature of the Cru Artisan is the strong 

connection between the wine and the winegrower”, says Patrice Belly, who manages 


99

BORDEAUX 

DISCOVERY 

PATRICE BELLY DURING THE HARVEST SEASON AT 

CHÂTEAU TOUR BEL AIR 

Château Tour Bel Air. “We make personalised wines 

that are less standardised than those of certain 

colleagues who make good wine but perhaps shy 

away from taking as many initiatives”. This mantra 

is one shared by many of the estates. 

CHÂTEAU TOUR BEL AIR: 

SUPPLENESS AND TANNINS 

HARVESTING AT CHÂTEAU TOUR BEL AIR 

Six kilometres from the Gironde estuary and the 

legendary appellations of Saint-Estèphe and Pauillac, 

Château Tour Bel Air has established itself as a benchmark 

for Médoc Crus Artisans. Its 7.5 hectares of 

vines are distributed over 5 closely located blocks, 

the oldest of which is 50 years old and the youngest 

10. Two thirds of the vineyards are situated in clayey 

gravel areas, where vines thrive, and one third in sandy 

soil with less gravel, on a layer of compact, shallow 

clay, which is also conducive to quality. Agricultural 

engineer Patrice Belly skilfully produces wines like 

his Prestige label. Made from a selection of the finest 

vineyard blocks on the estate, it is seductively elegant 

with balanced suppleness and tannins. “My wines 

reflect my personality and from one year to the next, 

they have a family resemblance”, he stresses. “Due to 

the size of the estate, I know my vineyard blocks like 

the back of my hand. In each one, I identify the best 

quality rows of vines. Everything we do to promote 

quality, from work in the vineyard to the winery is 

done by two employees and myself. The goal is to 

produce wines that are quite supple, often rounder 

than the norm within the appellation and above all 

not wood-dominant”. 

CHÂTEAU HAUT COULOUMEY: 

MERLOT STEALS THE SHOW 

Sometimes reputations can be established within a 

short space of time. The impressive story of Château 

Haut Couloumey began in Lesparre-Médoc in 1998. 

As a young graduate, Pascal Sallenave decided to 

found his own winery after gaining experience on a 

Médoc estate. After planting vines, he produced his 

first vintages in a co-operative winery. Then, keen 


BORDEAUX 

DISCOVERY 

to branch out on his own, he converted his grandfather’s 

old barn into a winery and started making 

his own wines on the property in 2003. The estate’s 

vineyard extends over 14 hectares, 4 of them leased, 

on sandy gravelly soils. It is planted to three grape 

varieties, spearheaded by Merlot (75%), followed 

by Cabernet Sauvignon (20%) and Cabernet Franc 

(5%). “Our proportion of Merlot makes us fairly 

unusual because most Médoc wines are made from 

Cabernet”, explains Sallenave. “This yields wines 

that are round and drink well from a young age”. 

In addition to its loyal private customers, the estate 

has also developed sales with a trading company 

focusing on exports which markets, inter alia, 

its premium tank-aged Méline label and Manon, 

matured in barrels. 

VINEYARD WORK FOR PASCAL SALLENAVE AT CHÂTEAU HAUT COULOUMEY 

CHÂTEAU GRAND BRUN: KEEPING 

WINEGROWING IN THE FAMILY 

OLIVIER BRUN TASTING WINES AT CHÂTEAU GRAND BRUN 

In the Brun family, passion is shared from one 

generation to the next and this art is perfectly 

demonstrated by Jean-Pierre Brun and his two 

children Sophie and Olivier who skilfully manage 

the production side. Set between Pauillac, Saint 

Julien and Margaux, Château Grand Brun has 

been classified as a Médoc Cru Artisan since 

2005. Its 10.5 hectares in Haut-Médoc are complemented 

by 2 hectares in Bordeaux Supérieur. In 

1987, after studying viticulture and oenology, 

Olivier Brun joined his father on the estate. A 

year later, he created the Château Grand Brun 

brand and made his first wines in the family cellar, 

before being joined by his sister Sophie in 2003. 

“We have been a family business for six generations”, 

she explains. “Being a Cru Artisan implies 

being constantly involved in the estate at every 

stage from viticulture to winemaking, including 

marketing and direct sales, while sharing our 

passion with our customers”. This goal is achieved 

to perfection with wines that show beautiful 

aromatic intensity with notes of dried apricot and 

red fruit jam and rounded tannins that produce 

subtle, appetising wines. 


101

BORDEAUX 

DISCOVERY 

CHÂTEAU D’OSMOND: NATURALLY BLESSED 

Created in 1987, Château d’Osmond boasts 9 hectares of vines being converted to 

organic near Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe. Since the 2021 harvest, Frédéric Morlier, the 

estate’s new owner, has been passionately building on the work of his predecessors and 

aims to further maximise the quality of this Médoc Cru Artisan. He produces around 

50,000 bottles per year. The vineyard is planted in narrow rows on sandy-gravelly soil 

that promotes quality vine growing. The varietal range is split between 50% Merlot, 

36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc. “The Cru Artisan 

designation refers to a small property”, comments Morlier. “It imbues the process 

with an authentic, family spirit that is accessible to a wide audience. The identity of a 

Cru is forged through its ability to engage with its visitors and customers. We show 

off our facilities, vines, vats and barrel cellar. We explain our choices and let people 

taste our wines in a transparent and simple way”. Wine enthusiasts are not just interested 

in prices, they feel the need to sense a winegrower’s ethos through discovery 

and tasting. “There seems to be renewed interest today in the authenticity of Crus 

Artisans”, believes Morlier. “Private customers represent an important part of our sales 

with regular export markets in Japan, the United States, Belgium, Senegal, Cameroon 

and Portugal”. 

WORK IN THE WINERY AT CHÂTEAU D’OSMOND 


AN INCREDIBLE BOTTLE 

WINES THAT CAPTURE THE CURRENT ZEITGEIST 

Since 2017, the year of the last classification, 36 properties have been classified as 

Médoc Crus Artisans for the 2017 to 2021 vintages – the classification is reviewed 

every 5 years. Each property nurtures its own distinctive identity, and its differences, 

through the choice of production techniques. It is probably easier for them to foster 

a closer relationship, as they do, with their customers than for other top appellations. 

The personality of the winegrower adds value through individual experiences, history 

and expertise, all of which are perfectly conveyed to customers. These advantages are 

further strengthened by price points which, though not entry-level, remain accessible 

considering the quality of the wines. Crus Artisans revolve around regionality, terroir 

and a close rapport with consumers, allowing them to align with current market 

demands – artisanal is highly valued by consumers. Now recognised in France, Médoc 

Crus Artisans need to move to a new level in their development and expand their international 

reach. This is a major challenge for a category where many estates do not 

necessarily have the time or the logistics to approach importers. But the quality of the 

wines is their precious trump card. 


103

NEBBIOLO, 

THE PRINCE OF GRAPE VARIETIES 

IN NORTH-WEST ITALY 

BY FRANCESCO SAVERIO RUSSO 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


Nebbiolo is widely considered to be the prince of Northern Italian grape varieties 

due to its elegance and undisputed longevity. This historic variety is widespread 

across North-West Italy, in Piedmont, Lombardy and Valle d’Aosta. We drill down 

on one of Italy’s most iconic grapes. 

THE CIABOT BERTON ESTATE PRODUCES 4 DIFFERENT BAROLO WINES: ROGGERI; ROCCHETTEVINO, BERTON 1961 AND LA MORRA 


ITALY 

GRAPE 

TREADING THE GRAPES AT THE TRADITIONAL GRAPE HARVEST FESTIVAL IN FONTANAFREDDA 

In the Unesco heritage area of the Langhe, Roero and the Monferrato hills, the variety 

is called Nebbiolo, but in other areas of Alto-Piemonte, Valle d’Aosta and Valtellina it 

takes on different names including Spanna, Chiavennasca, Prunent, Picotendro, Melasca 

and Martesana. The documented origins of Nebbiolo date back to the Middle Ages where 

it was mentioned in 1272 as being given as a gift to the King of England and Duke of 

Aquitaine Edward I. In 1800 it became a favourite of Thomas Jefferson who declared 

he wanted to import it to the USA after tasting a ‘Gattinara’. Nebbiolo took its next step 

forward in 1835 with Carlo Alberto in Pollenzo where, thanks to General Staglieno, the 

winemaker/marketer Oudart and Camillo Benso Count of Cavour, the forerunner of 

Barolo was born. 

A SLOW RIPENER 

Nebbiolo has significant genetic variability and as many as 90 clones have recently been 

identified, grouped into seven genotypes according to SNV analyses (Gambino et al., 

2017). In the Langhe you can find Lampia, Michet, Rosé and Bolla. The latter two can no 

longer be used for the production of Barolo. Nebbiolo is mostly prevalent in Piedmont 

(4 500 ha), Valtellina (50 ha) and Valle d’Aosta (45 ha) but it is also grown outside Italy, in 

Mexico, Australia, the USA, Uruguay, Chile and other areas (such as China) for a total 

area of around 600 ha. Its growth cycle is long and because it ripens slowly, it can be used 

to produce very aromatic wines with a robust structure. It has always been planted in 

the best South and South-West aspects (in the ‘sorì’), and only on hilly terrain at between 

200m and 450m above sea level. However, nowadays, due to climate change, some producers 

are experimenting with less exposed and higher altitude plantings. 


105

ITALY 

GRAPE 

GIANNI MARTINI AND HIS DAUGHTER ELEONORA, OWNERS OF 

THE GREAT PIEDMONT WINERY 

THE ASPECT OF THE VINEYARDS AT CASCINA LO ZOCCOLAIO IS AMONG THE BEST IN 

THE AREA AND IS A FUNDAMENTAL REQUIREMENT FOR VINES SUCH AS ‘NEBBIOLO DA 

BAROLO’, WHICH IS VERY DEMANDING IN TERMS OF SOIL AND EXPOSURE 

The ‘main’ designations of origin using Nebbiolo 

in Piedmont, Lombardy and Valle d’Aosta are the 

following: Barolo DOCG; Barbaresco DOCG; Roero 

DOCG; Gattinara DOCG, ; Ghemme DOCG Piedmont 

DOC; Langhe DOC; Alba DOC; Albugnano 

DOC; Colli Tortonesi DOC; Colline Novaresi DOC; 

Colline Saluzzesi DOC; Coste della Sesia DOC; Fara 

DOC; Lessona DOC; Monferrato DOC; Terre Alfieri 

DOC; Boca DOC; Bramaterra DOC; Sizzano DOC; 

Canavese DOC; Carema DOC; Valli Ossolane DOC; 

Pinerolese DOC; Sforzato di Valtellina or Sfursat di 

Valtellina DOCG; Valtellina Rosso DOC; Valtellina 

Superiore DOCG (several sub-areas); Valle d’Aosta 

DOC (several sub-areas). 

The two most important appellations (100% 

Nebbiolo) are, of course, Barolo and Barbaresco. The 

former is located a few kilometres South of the city of 

Alba, covering 11 localities: the entire areas of Barolo, 

Serralunga d’Alba and Castiglione Falletto, and parts 

of Grinzane Cavour, La Morra, Monforte, Verduno, 

Novello, Diano d’Alba, Cherasco and Roddi. 

The Barbaresco production area, on the other hand, 

includes the entire area and localities of Barbaresco, 

Treiso, Neive and part of Alba. To date, there are 

181 official MGAs (menzioni geografiche aggiuntive) 

in the Barolo area, 11 of them village-designated, defining 

the strong link with the individual ‘climates’ in 

the area. In the Barbaresco area there are 66 MGAs. 

The breakdown in vineyard area is approximately 

1,800 hectares for Barolo and 700 for Barbaresco, 

with output standing at some 12 million bottles of 

Barolo and 6 million of Barbaresco. 

We take a closer look at some of the most prestigious 

producers in the two appellation areas. 

FRATELLI MARTINI 

‘CASCINA LO ZOCCOLAIO’ 

THE JEWEL IN THE CROWN 

Cascina Lo Zoccolaio is owned by Gianni Martini 

and his daughter Eleonora. It produces exclusively 

red wines from over 30 hectares of vineyards located 

in Barolo, Monforte d’Alba, Novello and Verdino. 

Every step of the winemaking process is conducted 

with great passion and dedication. The grapes are 

lovingly cared for and the mantra here is to show 


ITALY 

GRAPE 

respect for the rhythms of nature. Harvesting is 

done carefully by hand, selecting the best clusters. 

From gently pressing the grapes, through to 

fermentation and ageing, all the way through to 

bottling, respect is shown for tradition but using the 

most modern methods and equipment. The family 

believes Nebbiolo is one of the noblest grape varieties, 

along with Pinot Noir, producing elegant wines 

that are spicy, but never thick or austere. This is the 

ultimate noble wine whose qualities are enhanced 

with ageing in wooden casks. It can be laid down in 

bottles for many years without losing its flavour. The 

company aims to treat its vines and vineyard sites 

with respect by using traditional methods of tillage 

and no weedkillers. It is a practitioner of sustainable 

winegrowing, and is certified SQPNI. The 

careful selection of grapes and low yield production 

demonstrate its focus on maximising quality. Its 

key markets, outside Italy, are Germany, England, 

Northern Europe and the United States. 

CAGLIERO SPECIALISES IN THE PRODUCTION OF QUALITY GRAPES WHICH ARE USED TO 

MAKE THE MOST FAMOUS RED WINES IN PIEDMONT. 

THE CURRENT NET VINEYARD AREA AMOUNTS TO ABOUT 6 HECTARES 

THE BARREL CELLAR AT CAGLIERO WHERE NEBBIOLO IS 

VINIFIED IN MANY WAYS 

AZ. AGR. CAGLIERO A HISTORY 

DATING BACK TO 1500 

The company was founded by one of the oldest 

winegrowing families in Barolo in 1500. The arrival 

of phylloxera in the early 1900s led most of the family 

to move away from their home land and seek their 

fortune in the city. The vineyard was kept going by 

their uncle Giovanni Battista until Mario Cagliero, 

grandfather of the current owner Stefano, returned 

with the aim of rebuilding and reviving the family’s 

Barolo traditions. 1961 was their first ‘official’ vintage 

when they produced an exceptional Barolo, marking 

a turning point for the family’s fortunes. 

Stefano Cagliero believes Nebbiolo is the area’s 

main grape variety and should be understood as 

such, albeit with different regional variations. 

Barolo Ravera is a symbol of the region, tradition 

and Langhe peasant culture. It has a local Piedmont 

personality, appearing initially austere, almost surly, 

with hard tannins that don’t initially seem appealing, 

but when it begins to open up, it reveals its 

true flavours, expressing incredible self-confidence 

together with persistence, softness and elegance. 

Barolo Terlo, the latest wine, is softer, delicate, femi- 


107

NEBBIOLO IS VINIFIED IN THE CLASSIC WAY, AIMING FOR AUTHENTIC FLAVOURS WITH THE SUPPORT OF THE WELL-KNOWN CONSULTANT 

WINEMAKER GIANFRANCO CORDERO (PICTURED HERE WITH PIERNICOLA BRUNO) 

nine, less structured and fresher. Langhe Nebbiolo is structured but, at the same time, 

fresh, thanks to 15% of Barbera. Finally the Langhe Rosso (Dolcetto and Nebbiolo) combines 

the immediacy of Dolcetto and the intensity of Nebbiolo. The winery subscribes to a classical 

approach from the vineyard to the cellar. To achieve maximum regional expression, 

however, technological evolutions need to be taken on board, lending the wines an even 

sharper identity. The winery’s mantra is “Deep roots in tradition but always looking to the 

future”. Cagliero’s markets are the USA, Canada, Northern Europe and South East Asia. 

SERRAGRILLI HILL 

A PIECE OF BARBARESCO HISTORY 

In 1890, Lequio Alessandro arrived with his family on ‘Serragrilli’ hill and began planting 

vineyards to produce wine, in what was to become Agricola Lequio Alessandro. His son 

Giuseppe and subsequently his son Alessandro expanded the vineyards, becoming one of 

the few wineries in Neive to produce wine using only their own grapes. Alessandro had 

3 daughters – Rosanna, Daniela and Antonella – who improved and expanded production, 

helping the winery to achieve its first awards in a male-dominated environment. In 1990 

the brand changed to ‘Collina Serragrilli’, honouring one of the best Barbaresco crus. In 

1998, Rosanna’s husband Bruno Piernicola, who came from a family of Barolo producers, 

joined the business and decided to reorganise the vineyards with the help of consultant 

winemaker Gianfranco Cordero into single-vineyard parcels with the aim of producing 

distinctive wines. The agronomic approach is respectful of the environment and avoids 

products with a high environmental impact. In fact, the business is certified ‘The Green 

Experience’. The barriques have been replaced by larger tonneaux and large barrels to 

preserve the specific characteristics of the grapes. The aim is to produce clean, classic wines 


LÉGENDES 

THE LA BIÒCA WINERY TEAM IS YOUNG AND DYNAMIC LIKE THE WINES IT PRODUCES 

that can be enjoyed even when they are young, without harming their potential longevity. 

Piernicola Bruno believes that “Sipping Nebbiolo transports you to the Langhe in October, 

with its beautiful hills, splendid colours and vineyards that have adorned the landscape 

since time began”. The wine is closed and stubborn when young but as it ages, it becomes 

deeper, calmer and softer, though preserves its innate strength, just like its winemakers, 

who will never accept compromise. Collina Serragrilli produces the following wines from 

Nebbiolo: Langhe Nebbiolo DOC, Barbaresco DOCG ‘Cru Serragrilli’, Barbaresco DOCG ‘cru 

Starderi’ and a very small amount of Barolo from Piernicola’s family vineyards in Monforte 

d’Alba. Today, the Collina Serragrilli brand is registered worldwide and, in addition to Italy, 

the key markets are Switzerland, Belgium, Holland, UK, Canada, USA, Brazil, Japan, Hong 

Kong and Taiwan. 

LA BIÒCA – A BLEND OF TRADITION AND INNOVATION 

La Biòca is a winery located in Serralunga d’Alba, in the Langhe, which was founded in 2012. 

The word ‘biòca’, in the Piedmontese dialect, means a ‘stubborn, determined person’ which 

is an apt description of the winegrowers in this region who strive, vintage after vintage, 

to produce the best grapes and the best wines. La Biòca believes in balancing innovation 

with tradition, which is why they mainly use large barrels made from French and Slavonian 

oak. The wines are racked in tonneaux and barriques more than 5 times. There is no lack of 

experimentation, as evidenced, for example, by the 18 hl of unglazed Cocciopesto amphora 

in which a Nebbiolo cru from Monforte d’Alba (San Sebastiano) is matured. 

The young producers at La Biòca view Nebbiolo as the king of the Langhe, which in this 

area acquires a unique mix of aromatic complexity, tannicity and elegance. La Biòca uses 

integrated pest control and in the cellar macerations are weighted according to the vintage. 


109

ITALY 

GRAPE 

The wines with Nebbiolo as the base are the Langhe 

Nebbiolo DOC ‘Riccinnebbia’ (matured in stainless 

steel only), the Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC ‘Pipina’ (matured 

only in cocciopesto amphora) and the Nebbiolo d’Alba 

Superiore DOC ‘Stërmà’ (vinified in a special steel 

cask where part remains and part is matured in large 

oak casks). The Barolos produced are Aculei, Ravera, 

Monvigliero, Bussia and Stolèt while the Barbarescos 

are Ronchi and Secondine. The markets are divided 

between 50% Italy and 50% abroad (UK, Thailand, 

Australia, China, Japan, Russia and the USA). 

FONTANAFREDDA 

FROM KING VITTORIO EMANUELE II 

TO ORGANIC 

THE FONTANAFREDDA VILLAGE, IN THE HEART OF THE SPLENDID UNESCO-LISTED 

VINEYARD LANDSCAPE OF THE LANGHE, PROVIDED THE BACKDROP FOR THE LOVE STORY 

BETWEEN THE KING OF ITALY, VITTORIO EMMANUELE II, AND ROSA VERCELLANA 

THE VINEYARDS AT FONTANAFREDDA 

In 1858, the Fontanafredda estate was purchased by 

King Vittorio Emanuele II, as a gift for his beloved 

‘Rosina’ and it was later named after their children. 

In 1878 their son Count Emanuele Alberto founded a 

winery on the estate. Its 300 hectares were farmed 

directly by specialised employees which was unusual 

for the time. In 1918 the company was in its heyday in 

terms of sales and production, employing 200 people 

with over 40 families living in the village. 

Unfortunately, in 1931, due to phylloxera and the 

Great Depression, the estates and winery were sold 

to Monte dei Paschi di Siena, which converted it 

into ‘Tenimenti di Barolo e Fontanafredda’, while 

the ‘Casa E di Mirafiore’ brand was purchased by the 

Gancia family. In 1964, the first certified Barolo Cru 

‘Vigna La Rosa’ was produced, and in 1988 the first 

Barolo Serralunga d’Alba, with the village designated 

on the label. In 2008, the estate was purchased by 

Oscar Farinetti and Luca Baffigo. Since 2018, it has 

been certified organic and in 2022 it was also certified 

Equalitas, vegan and Marchio Storico. Organic 

production begins by stimulating the symbiotic relationship 

between vineyards and forests, preserving 

and increasing biodiversity. Yeasts from the estate’s 

own vineyards are selected for fermentation. Cement 

is used for maturing the fresh red wines, while Slavonian 

and Allier oak barrels are used for the more 

structured and mature offerings. The producers at 

Fontanafredda believe that Nebbiolo is the noblest 

grape, due to its personality, elegance, but above all 


ITALY 

GRAPE 

its ability to birth wines with different identities. The winery ferments the grapes traditionally using, 

for example, medium and large capacity Slavonian oak barrels, with the aim of bringing the flavours 

from the region into the glass. The highest volumes are for the Barolo di Serralunga and the Barolo 

Classico, but there are also some niche pours such as the Barolo Vigna La Rosa, Vigna la Villa and Vigna 

La Delizia. The company generates around 55% of its revenue from markets outside Italy, with Sweden, 

Norway, the USA, Canada and Japan as key destinations. 

CIABOT BERTON - A FAMILY TRADITION 

The company was founded in the 1960s thanks to the intuition of Luigi Oberto who comes from many 

generations of winegrowers in La Morra. Oberto carried on the business until 2005, successfully 

increasing vineyard area to 10 hectares of vines over the years. In the 1990s, he was joined by his son 

Marco, who took over the business in 1997. Thanks to his commitment, the company now boasts almost 

15 hectares of vineyards. Marco’s wife Federica handles marketing, while his sister Paola takes care of the 

office work and customer management. Ciabot Berton’s vision of Nebbiolo is that of a noble, versatile 

vine with great personality that can convey the flavours of the region and has the ability to reproduce 

vintage variation features in the glass, combined with its intimate interaction with the soil where it 

grows. Sandy soil yields ethereal and graceful Nebbiolo, as with Langhe Nebbiolo or village-designated 

Barolo, while marl and clay or limestone produce wines showing greater body and structure. They are 

elegant and rich with more stubborn and intriguing tannins and sensations that are at times more spicy 

or fruity, depending on the original vineyard site. 

The wine must be evocative and authentically convey the essence of its vineyard provenance; it is 

fermented and matured separately. The Barolo is macerated in cement tanks, followed by maturation 

FIVE GENERATIONS OF OBERTO FAMILY WINEGROWERS IN LA MORRA HAVE AN ANCIENT AND INDELIBLE 

BOND WITH LA MORRA AND THE BAROLO HILLS 


111

ITALY 

GRAPE 

GIOVANNI AND PAOLA SORDO INSPECT THEIR VINEYARDS 

in large Slavonian oak casks. There is minimal 

impact on varietal and regional identity, and the 

focus is on quality and environmental sustainability. 

The company uses massal selection, allowing it to 

work with vines that have adapted best to the area. 

The key markets are Great Britain, Japan, the USA, 

South Korea, Switzerland, Belgium and in recent 

years also Italy. 

SORDO GIOVANNI WINES 

THE LARGEST COLLECTION OF 

BAROLO CRUS 

CANTINA SORDO WINES ARE LEFT TO REST IN LARGE OAK BARRELS IN THE HEART OF THE 

WINERY, ITS BARREL CELLAR 

This winery is located in Castiglione Falletto, in 

the heart of the Barolo area. It is one of the largest 

private estates in the Langhe and the winery has 

over 100 years of history. It has been family-run 

for four generations. Today, the estate is helmed 

by third-generation Giorgio Sordo, who mainly 

manages the vineyard, and fourth-generation 

Paola Sordo, who supports the winemaking team 

alongside her father Giorgio. Sordo is a traditionalist, 

concentrating on the production of very elegant 

single-vineyard Barolo matured in large Slavonian 

oak barrels. 

For the Sordo family, Nebbiolo is the most precious 

grape variety, capable of displaying complex nuances 

when it is young while also impressing with its longevity. 

In the Sordo winery, Barolo Riserva dating back 

to the 1980s are available, and today the following 

Nebbiolo-based wines are produced, including 

8 Barolos from 5 different villages: Nebbiolo d’Alba 

DOC (Roero area), Barolo DOCG classico, Rocche 

di Castiglione, Parussi, Villero, Monprivato, Perno, 

Gabutti, Ravera and Monvigliero. The Sordo family’s 

dream is to increase this selection with new single-vineyard 

labels. They work with care and respect in 

the vineyard and ferment their wines traditionally, 

submerging the cap during maceration in stainless 

steel tanks for some 4/6 weeks. Only the maturation 

process is carried out in wooden barrels, for 2 years 

for the classic Barolo and 3 years for Barolo Riserva. 

The Sordo family’s target markets are mainly the 

hotel sector and the following countries: the USA, 

Australia, South Korea, Hong Kong, China, Italy, 

Great Britain and Denmark. 


THE VAIRA FAMILY: ALDO VAIRA AND MILENA VAIRA WITH THEIR CHILDREN GIUSEPPE VAIRA, FRANCESCA VAIRA AND ISIDORO VAIRA 

G.D. VAJRA - HISTORY, RESPECT AND RESEARCH 

In Turin in 1968, Aldo Vaira was fifteen years old and dreamt of living surrounded by nature. 

The desire to take over the family vineyards led him to leave city life and begin this adventure. 

A pioneer in organic farming, he obtained one of the first certificates awarded in Piedmont 

in the early 1970s. His wife Milena and then their children Giuseppe, Francesca and Isidoro, 

brought additional support to the business. Vineyard research opened up to studies on the 

influence of soils, climate change and a renewed focus on flora and fauna. 

Aldo Vaira has been considered “the most modern of traditionalists and the most traditional 

of modernists” as he is in love with tradition, but capable of viewing it through a scientific 

and reasoned approach in order to produce wines that are increasingly enjoyable and palatable 

and have a strong identity. The high-altitude vineyards remain one of the distinguishing 

features of G.D. Vajra wines, as does the house style which yields wines of great finesse and 

complexity. Nebbiolo is, of course, at the heart of production (30ha), and is produced with 

varietal and regional sensitivity and respect. The company views this grape variety as multifaceted 

and challenging, faithfully conveying the flavours of the region. 

Emblematic of G.D. Vajra and the company’s vision of Nebbiolo is its Barolo Bricco delle 

Viole, the highest and westernmost cru in Barolo. It also produces Barolo Mga Ravera, Coste 

di Rose, Baudana and Cerretta, and the ‘classic’ Barolo Albe, as well as Langhe Nebbiolo, 

Rosato di Nebbiolo and two limited production wines, ‘N.S. della Neve’ (a Classic Method 

rosé, 60% Nebbiolo and 40% Pinot Noir) and ‘Claré JC’ with Nebbiolo grapes which are 

fermented as whole clusters. G.D. Vajra sells 90% of its wines abroad. 

Among Italian grape varieties, Nebbiolo is the one that best depicts the perfect combination 

of elegance and longevity. This can be ascribed to Barolo and Barbaresco wines, but also to the 

other appellations that are focusing on this fascinating variety which is currently suffering 

less than others from the effects of climate change. 


113

TIM BURTON 

FROM GOTHIC FANTASY 

TO EPICUREAN REALITY 

BY FRANK ROUSSEAU, 

OUR CORRESPONDENT 

IN THE UNITED STATES 

TIM BURTON WAS INTERVIEWED 

AT THE FESTIVAL LUMIÈRE IN LYON 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 

Last October, Tim Burton received the prestigious Prix Lumière which is 

awarded annually in Lyon to leading cinema personalities. The American 

director, who has produced some of the greatest masterpieces of the film 

industry, from ‘Batman’ and ‘Alice in Wonderland’ to ‘Edward Scissorhands’ 

and ‘Charlie and the Chocolate Factory’, discovered the Capital of Gaul, its 

gastronomy and the region’s wines. 

What does it feel like to be in Lyon, the world’s gourmet food 

capital? 

This is the first time I’ve been here! The hospitality is fantastic. 

I just had a little taste of the local gastronomy when I arrived 

in my room. I’ve also drunk some really good wines, especially 

Beaujolais and Jura, which I had no idea existed on Earth. You 

French certainly know how to entertain. I was served extraordinary 

wines. Wines that would have woken the dead and allowed 

them to see life in colour. And believe me, I know what I am 

talking about! I specialise in all things gothic and sometimes 

macabre. I know about darkness! I’ve even made a business 

out of it! (laughs) 

From your appearance, you don’t look like an Epicurean… 

Don’t judge a book by its cover! Just because I’m always dressed 

in black doesn’t mean I don’t enjoy good food and the finer 

things in life. We are only passing through this world and while 

we are at it, I don’t see why I should miss out on good food and 

wine! Unlike some people, though, I am not a big eater. I’m a 

grazer. But what I graze on or drink revolves around quality 

products! I’d rather go without than eat any old thing! I don’t 

want to be a vulgar digestive tube that fills up! 

So when you enjoy a good wine, it’s not in a castle worthy of 

Dracula? 

I avoid that because I don’t want red wine to excite our friend 


STARS 

& WINE 

TIM BURTON WITH FRANK ROUSSEAU 

Dracula and give him any ideas! I drink wine 

with my friends so that time can stand still in 

their delightful company. Usually after watching 

a good film. I find the combination of wine and 

film goes well together! I don’t try and understand 

why. That’s just how it is! 

Where does your unbridled creativity come from? 

Wine? 

I’m sure it can’t hurt me! (laughs). You know, I 

don’t want to be a tormented artist! I’m not interested 

in living in darkness all the time. But I 

think we need conflicting energy to give the best 

we can. How does creativity come about? I’ve been 

to counselling a million times and I still haven’t 

found the answer to that yet! 

What is the biggest fright of your life and conversely, 

the most beautiful moment? 

When I eat mashed potatoes, I’m in my comfort 

zone! (laughs). The same goes for drinking a bottle 

of Bordeaux in the company of people who are 

aware of what I am serving them! For example, 

seeing someone not finish their glass makes me 

sad. It’s an insult to all those who don’t have the 

good fortune to drink good wines and also for 

those who have bottled it, don’t you think?! But, 

just so you know, I haven’t reached the stage where 

I collect corks! 

Do you sleep well at night? 

Again, it depends on my dinner. If the meal was 

really flavourful and the wines were ‘airy’, then 

there’s a good chance that my dreams will be great! 

Basically, my sleep patterns are very variable, they 

change all the time! I can sleep like a log or not 

sleep at all. You didn’t think I slept in a coffin and 

that I had just bought a cemetery in Transylvania, 

did you?! Oh, and I don’t sleep with a bottle of 

Petrus on my bedside table either! 


115

CONTACT 

DETAILS 

Champagne - Pages 10-28 

• Champagne P. Lancelot-Royer: 

Tel. +33 3 26 57 51 41 - 

champagne.lancelot.royer@cder.fr 

• Champagne Legras-Frapart: Tel. +33 3 26 57 61 56 - 

www.champagne-legras-frapart.com 

• Champagne Franck Bonville: 

Tel. +33 3 26 57 52 30 - 

http://champagne-franck-bonville.com 

• Champagne Lombard: Tel. +33 3 26 59 57 40 - 

www.champagne-lombard.com 

• Champagne Collet: Tel. +33 3 26 55 15 88 - 

www.champagne-collet.com 

• Champagne Paul Déthune: Tel. +33 3 26 57 09 31 - 

https://champagne-dethune.fr 

• Champagne Laurianne Lejour: 

Tel. +33 6 64 42 99 08 - 

www.facebook.com/champagnelejour/ 

• Champagne Paul Sadi: Tel. +33 3 26 40 25 18 - 

www.champagne-paul-sadi.fr 

• La Commanderie diffusion: Tel. +33 6 07 10 91 18 - 

28 Rue de Tours sur Marne, 51150 Bouzy 

• Champagne Michel Arnould et Fils: 

Tel. +33 3 26 49 40 06 - 

www.champagne-michel-arnould.com 

• Champagne Maurice Vesselle: 

Tel. +33 3 26 57 00 81 - 

http://www.champagnemauricevesselle.com 

Cahors - Pages 30-41 

• Château Eugénie: Tel. +33 5 65 30 73 51 - 

www.chateaueugenie.com 

• Château Vincens: Tel. +33 5 65 30 51 55 - 

www.chateauvincens.fr 

• Vignobles Pelvillain Domaine du Théron: 

Tel. +33 5 65 20 13 13 - 

www.vignoblespelvillain.com 

• Château de Gaudou: Tel. +33 5 65 36 52 93 - 

www.chateaudegaudou.com 

• Famille Baldès Clos Triguedina: 

Tel. +33 5 65 21 30 81 - www.jlbaldes.com 

• Château Nozière: Tel. +33 5 65 36 52 73 - 

www.chateaunozieres.com 

• Château Famaey: Tel. +33 5 65 30 59 42 - 

www.chateaufamaey.com 

• Château Lamartine: Tel. +33 5 65 36 54 14 - 

www.cahorslamartine.fr 

Rhone Valley - Pages 42-53 

• Domaine du Père Caboche: 

Tel. +33 4 90 83 71 44 - boisson@jpboisson.com 

• Domaine Olivier Hillaire: Tel. +33 4 90 48 03 87 - 

domaine.olivier.hillaire@orange.fr 

• Mas Saint Louis: Tel. +33 4 90 83 73 12 - 

contact@mas-saint-louis.fr 

• Domaine La Mereuille: Tel. +33 4 90 34 10 68 - 

micbouyer@wanadoo.fr 

• Château Mongin: Tel. +33 4 90 51 48 04 - 

expl.lpa.orange@educagri.fr 

• Xavier Vignon: Tel. +33 4 90 94 76 85 - 

xavier@xaviervignon.com 

• Maison Ogier: Tel. +33 4 90 39 32 41 - 

boutique@ogier.fr 

• Château Correnson: Tel. +33 4 66 50 05 28 - 

contact@chateau-correnson.com 

• Domaine Maby: Tel. +33 4 66 50 03 40 - 

domaine-maby@wanadoo.fr 

• Château Trinquevedel: Tel. +33 4 66 50 04 04 - 

demoulin@chateau-trinquevedel.fr 

Italy - Pages 54-63 

Emilia-Romagna 

• Azienda Agricola Brachini: Tel. +39 054 253778 - 

info@branchini1858.it 

• Tenuta Pederzana: Tel. +39 059 748072 - 

info@tenutapederzana.it 

• Celli Vini: Tel. +39 054 3445183 - 

celli@celli-vini.com 

• Settecani Cantina Castelvetro: 

Tel. + 39 059 702505 - info@cantinasettecani.it 

Umbria 

• Agricola Mevante: Tel. +39 3498 057501 - 

info@agricolamevante.com 

• La Veneranda: Tel. +39 0742 951630 - 

info@laveneranda.com 

• Agricola Montioni: Tel. +39 0742 379 214 - 

info@gabrielemontioni.it 

• Arnaldo Caprai: Tel. +39 0742 378 802 - 

info@arnaldocaprai.it 

Czech Republic - Pages 64-73 

• Vinselekt Michlovský: Tel. +420 519 360 870 - 

www.michlovsky.com/en/ 

• Thaya: Tel. +420 736 479 974 - 

www.vinarstvithaya.cz/en/ 

• Maňák Winery: Tel. +420 773 684 685 - 

www.vinarstvi-manak.cz 

• B\V Winery: Tel. +420 603 821 361 - 

www.bvvinarstvi.cz/en/ 

South Africa - Pages 74-83 

• DTK: Tel. +27 23 349 1601 - dtkwines.com 

• Overhex: Tel. +27 (0)23 347 5012 - overhex.com 

• Nuy: Tel. +27 23 347 0272 - nuywinery.co.za 

• Robertson Winery: Tel. +27 23 626 3059 - 

robertsonwinery.co.za 

• Bon Courage: Tel. +27 23 626 4178 - 

boncourage.co.za 

• Weltevrede: Tel. +27 23 616 2141 - weltevrede.com 

• Bonnievale: Tel. +27 23 616 2795 - 

bonnievalewines.co.za 

Portugal - Pages 84-92 

• Adega de Cantanhede: Tel. +351 231 419 540 - 

geral@cantanhede.com 

• João Portugal Ramos: Tel. +351 268 339 910 - 

geral@jportugalramos.pt 

• Morais Rocha Wines: Tel. +351 912 106 762 - 

www.moraisrocha.com 

• Casa Santos Lima: Tel. +351 263 760 621 - 

geral@casasantoslima.com 

Spain - Pages 93-97 

• García Carrión: Tel: +34 900 1890 10 - 

www.garciacarrion.com 

Bordeaux - Pages 98-103 

• Château Tour Bel Air: Tel. +33 6 31 83 06 90 - 

www.tourbelair.com 

• Château Haut Couloumey: 

Tel. +33 6 86 82 48 07 - www.hautcouloumey.fr 

• Château Grand Brun: Tel. +33 5 56 58 97 87- 

www.chateau-grand-brun.com 

• Château d’Osmond: Tel. +33 5 56 59 59 17- 

https://chateaudosmond.com 

Italy - Pages 104-113 

• Ciabot Berton: Tel. +39 0173 50217 - 

info@ciabotberton.it 

• Collina Serragrilli: Tel. +39 3388 961 168 - 

info@serragrilli.it 

• Fontanafredda: Tel. +39 0173 626 454 - 

info@fontanafredda.it 

• Sordo Giovanni Azienda Agricola: 

Tel. +39 0173 62853 - visit@sordogiovanni.it 

• La Biòca S.r.l. agricola: Tel. +39 0173 613 022 - 

info@labioca.it 

• Fratelli Martini Secondo Luigi S.p.A: 

Tel. +39 0141 837 211 - info@fratellimartini.it - 

info@cascinalozoccolaio.it - 

• Azienda Agricola G.D Vajra: Tel. +39 017 356 257 - 

welcome@gdvajra.it 

• Cagliero Az. Agr. S.s.: Tel. +39 0173 56172 - 

info@cagliero.com 


PAGES 119 TO 130 

TOP WINES 

GOODBYE 2022, HELLO 2023 

This final session of 2022 fully delivered on its promise and we are now focusing on our objectives 

for 2023. Our big news is that, after touring Central and Eastern Europe with some success 

for the past year, we are now heading off to conquer South America. Welcome to Vivien Morvan 

who recently joined us and will be moving to Mendoza at the start of 2023 and will ultimately be 

travelling around the entire continent from his base in Argentina. With him comes the promise 

of some great tastings, with a very exotic twist! 

THE VINEYARDS OF MENDOZA, WITH THE ANDES MOUNTAINS IN THE BACKGROUND 

THE BEST OF WINTER 2022 

Our medal chart for this fourth session takes into account our latest tastings, as always, and the topics 

addressed in the relevant magazine articles. It therefore features a selection of German wines, a country 

we focused on in the 49th issue of this magazine (Autumn 2022), followed by Czech wines from Moravia, 

Slovacko and Velke Pavlovice. No festive season would be complete without a selection of Champagnes, 

along with a choice of organic wines or wines in the conversion phase from Emilia-Romagna and Umbria. 

Lastly, we take you on a little road trip through the Breede River Valley, a prime destination for discovering 

South African wines. 

THE TASTING PANEL: 

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS GILBERT - SYLVAIN PATARD 

OLIVIER DELORME - JAMES TURNBULL - BRUNO MICHAL - MATTHIEU GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS BEZUIDENHOUT 


117

CZECH REPUBLIC WINES - MORAVIA 

OUR WINTER SELECTION 


The Czech Republic may not be home 

to extensive vineyards, but it does 

produce top quality wines from local 

and international grape varieties 

along the (current) northerly 

threshold for growing vines. These 

are probably Europe’s most exotic 

wines and they most certainly deserve 

urgent attention! 

MORAVIA 

MIKULOV 

VINSELEKT MICHLOVSKÝ 92/100 

D NADALIE PERLE BLANCHE SAUVIGNON 

2017: Light yellow-gold. Vanilla and toast on 

the nose ballasted by juicy citrus, fruit and white 

flowers. Dense palate accompanied by seductive 

oak influence and very energetic, zippy fruit. 

The finish is full-bodied, fresh and long in this 

top-flight Sauvignon. 

http://www.michlovsky.com Price: € 24.00 

Vinselekt Michlovský +420 519 360 870 

MORAVIA 

STEPAN MANAK 92/100 

D GRAN RESERVA 2018: Concentrated 

colour tinged with ruby-garnet. Smoky vanilla 

on the nose with black fruit, sweet spice, pot 

pourri and tar notes. Powerful, warm palate 

with muscular, sleek body. The fruit copes well 

with the oak influence. Firmness on the finish. 

Would benefit from more bottle age. 

http://www.vinarstvi-manak.cz Price: € 30.00 

Vinarstvi Stepan Manak +420 773 684 685 


D PALAVA 2020: Yellow-gold. Appealing 

nose combining tropical fruits and yellow 

plum with oak undertones. A fleshy attack 

is the prelude to a beautifully voluptuous, 

concentrated palate laden with fruity and herbal 

nuances. Lovely purity and persistency. 




D CHARDONNAY - VYBER Z HROZNU 

2019: Bright, light gold. Nose of white liquorice, 

mirabelle plum, dried fruits, bush peach, white 

flower infusion and rhubarb. Fruit rapidly 

harnesses the broad-ranging, mouth-coating 

weight on the palate. The finish is structured 

and juicy. Generous breadth. 



SLOVACKO 

BV VINARSTVI 92/100 

D RESERVA BARRIQUE - CHARDONNAY 

2018: Bright, gold ingot hue. Toasted vanilla, 

flower honey and dried fruits on the nose 

complemented by white fruits. The palate offers 

up roundness and opulence that is rich yet 

delicate and marked by elaborate oak influence. 

The perfumes are only just starting to open up. 

Superb. 

https://www.bvvinarstvi.cz Price: € 25.00 

BV vinarstvi +420 730 595 426 

VINSELEKT MICHLOVSKÝ WINEMAKER MILOŠ 

MICHLOVSKÝ IS ALSO AN ACTIVE BREEDER OF 

RESISTANT VARIETIES 


D RESERVA - PINOT NOIR 2015: Light 

garnet tinged with brown. Nose of red and black 

fruit compote with humus, mushroom and 

leather. Open palate offering up a very savoury 

liqueur-like sensation enhanced by a saline 

streak. A structured, melt-in-the-mouth wine 

that deserves to be discovered immediately. 


BV vinarstvi +420 730 595 426 


D RESERVA - CHARDONNAY 2017: Bright 

gold. Nose of tropical fruits (pineapple), 

heady white flowers and fresh vanilla. Joyful, 

mouthfilling palate offering up a lovely lineup 

of silky, generous and energetic flavours. 

Freshness acts as a real unifier in this modern, 

compelling Chardonnay. 


BV vinarstvi +420 730 595 426 

VELKE PAVLOVICE 


D CUVÉE 1+1 2018: Deep red with brown 

highlights. Delicate smoky oakiness on the nose 

with wild flowers and jammy cherry. Aromatic 

density, impeccable concentration, velvety 

tannins and a finish laced with freshness on the 

palate. Sumptuous elegance. 




D CH.DOWINA - CARMENERE POZDNÍ 

SB?R 2019: Concentrated red with brown 

highlights. Nose of wild plants, strong spices, 

smoky, ash-like oakiness and stewed black 

fruits. Great concentration on the palate where 

the aromatic decor is very rich with elegant 

oak influence. Tannic finish. A nicely fleshy allrounder. 



ZNOJMO 

THAYA VINA?STVÍ 95/100 

D APRI CHARDONNAY 2018: Brilliant 

yellow-gold. Appealing nose offering up 

white fruits, honey, creamy and pastry notes. 

Rounded, fleshy, concentrated palate with very 

delicate perfumes of citrus fruits, subtle oak and 

an airy feel. Expresses its origins masterfully. 

https://www.vinarstvithaya.cz Price: € 19.50 

Thaya vinařství +420 725 995 531 


D APRI - CHARDONNAY 2019: Yellow-gold. 

Elegant nose offering up a fusion of white fruits, 

melon, honey and flower infusion. Expressive 

palate with savoury exuberance. Oak influence 

is perceptible but does not undermine the fleshy 

fruit expression. Ethereal finish for a majestic 

Chardonnay. 




D PINOT BLANC PREMIUM 2019: Vibrant 

pale gold. Intense nose marrying stone 

fruits, tobacco, smoke and a mineral accent. 

Harmonious, silky, ethereal palate where the 

exciting score of intense aromatics shows a 

pure, delicate, off-beat style over great length. 

Marvellous. 



118 WINTER 2022 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

FRANCE - CHAMPAGNE 


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FRANCE 

No holiday season would be complete 

without a selection of Champagnes, 

including some of the Grands Crus 

in our feature report (pages 10 to 

28) along with some real treasures 

from lesser-known wine areas such 

as Aube and the Marne Valley, 

and niche bottlings that include 

some incredibly appealing mature 

vintages. 

CHAMPAGNE DRAPPIER 97/100 

D BRUT GRANDE SENDRÉE 2012: Clear 

golden colour. Superior quality nose blending 

pear, biscuit and mineral, saline tones. Silky 

texture on the palate and remarkably high 

quality expression. On the finish, the fruit 

shows an intensity and freshness worthy of the 

finest offerings. 

http://www.champagne-drappier.com Price: € 62.95 

Champagne Drappier +33 3 25 27 40 15 

CHAMPAGNE CATTIER 95/100 

CR D BRUT 1ER CRU CLOS DU MOULIN: 

Bright, glistening light gold. Delicate nose 

marrying dried fruits and an elegant biscuit 

tone. Expressive, delicate attack with creamy 

effervescence and flavours that display 

incredible length. An absolute gem. 

http://www.cattier.com Price: € 130.00 

Champagne Cattier 03 26 03 42 11 

CHAMPAGNE COLLARD-PICARD 95/100 

CR D EXTRA BRUT ARCHIVES 2012: 

Appealing, bright, light gold. Very endearing, 

delicate nose marrying fruit, pastry and 

toast notes. Fresh attack on the palate with 

effective aromas and fullness confirmed by 

the effervescence and freshness on the finish. 

Remarkable. 

http://www.champagnecollardpicard.fr Price: € 165.00 

Champagne Collard-Picard +33 3 26 52 36 93 

CHAMPAGNE GEORGES VESSELLE 95/100 

D BRUT GRAND CRU JULINE: Beautiful 

glistening yellow-gold. Rich, expressive nose 

accented by candied fruits and sweet spices. 

The palate shows textbook concentration and 

freshness with more of the seductive nose 

aromas enhanced by fullness and length. 

http://www.champagne-vesselle.fr Price: € 45.00 

Champagne Georges Vesselle +33 3 26 57 00 15 

CHAMPAGNE GOSSET 

98/100 

■ GOSSET CELEBRIS 2008 EXTRA BRUT 

D Pretty, light gold. Intense nose sufused with toast 

and pastry tones replete with delicacy. The palate starts 

of ample, intense and silky, all o which lingers through 

to the persistent toast aromatics on the nish. Price: € 175 

PRESENTATION: This iconic Gosset label, which 

pays homage to Albert Gosset, is only produced in 

outstanding vintages which is why this particular 

cuvee only has seven predecessors - 1988, 1990, 1995, 

1998, 2002, 2004 and 2007. This 2008 Gosset Celebris 

is once again the perfect complement to the range – 

blended from 54% Chardonnay and 46% Pinot noir, 

it has been aged in the company’s cellars for twelve 

years, imbuing it - as is customary - with abundant 

structure and impeccable maturity. The wine has 

exceptional ageability whilst also showing 

generosity and tension, enhanced by its Extra Brut 

dosage (4.8g/l). This ensures that this outstanding 

wine marrying length and complexity will mature 

remarkably well. 

Tel.: +33 3 26 56 99 56 

E-mail: marketing@champagne-gosset.com 

Website: http://www.champagne-gosset.com 

CHAMPAGNE 

BESSERAT DE BELLEFON 

95/100 

g BRUT VINTAGE RÉSERVE COLLECTION 1986 

D Very pretty, glistening golden hue. Very mature nose 

accented by candied fruits with an exotic touch of g 

and a toast tone. The palate is in ne fettle, bolstered by 

faultless freshness. The chiselled nose aromas low 

through over remarkable length. Price: € 234 

PRESENTATION: Born in 1843 along the banks of the 

river Marne in Aÿ, the House has since moved to 

Epernay. For nearly two centuries, it has let its mark 

on restaurants and prime locations in Paris, 

perpetuating a tradition of superior quality by 

producing wines destined exclusively for gourmet 

foods, the hospitality industry, wine merchants and 

delicatessens. Its initials, BB, are synonymous with 

French elegance, a certain boldness and a deliberately 

independent style. But above all, it holds the promise 

of a Champagne whose bubbles are 30% ner than a 

conventional label. Liberty, elegance and simplicity are 

the values it champions for future generations. 

Tel.: +33 3 26 78 52 16 

E-mail: info@besseratdebellefon.com 

Website: www.besseratdebellefon.com 

WINTER 2022 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

119




en page 1 02/12/2022 17:23 

CHAMPAGNE INFINITE EIGHT 94/100 

D BRUT RÉSERVE SKULL EDITION: Beautiful 

glistening gold. Very mature nose accented 

by gingerbread, dried herbs and sweet spices. 

The palate is very soft with more of the same 

deliciously mature aromas. A mouthfilling, 

seductive Champagne that should be saved for 

the finest delicacies. 

Price: € 44.20 

Champagne Infinite Eight +33 6 08 61 53 41 

CHAMPAGNE JEAN VESSELLE 93/100 

CONV D BRUT NATURE BLANC DE BLANCS 

GRAND CRU B3 2014: Lovely bright, light gold. 

Delicate nose showing floral notes, white fruits 

and a toast touch. The palate displays a real 

persona, assertive weight and aromas that gain 

in intensity through to the finish. A Champagne 

that is both novel and distinctive. 

http://www.champagnejeanvesselle.fr Price: € 87.00 

Champagne Jean Vesselle +33 3 26 57 01 55 

CHAMPAGNE COLLET 

93/100 

g BRUT GRAND CRU COLLECTION PRIVÉE AŸ 

VINTAGE 2012 

D Glistening yellow-gold. Intense nose of red berry 

fruits, bordering on heady. The palate is ample, complete 

and vinous with more of the same intense aromas. A 

food-friendly Champagne pairing with duck breast. 

Price: € 87 

PRESENTATION: Since 1921, Champagne Collet has 

been producing Champagnes that honour the 

craftsmanship o its partner vineyard owners. The 

extensive diversity and quality o its vineyard sites 

enable Champagne Collet to grace the nest tables. 

The 2012 Grand Cru Aÿ Collection Privée label, partially 

ermented in oak casks, is made rom our Grand Cru 

classied Pinot Noir vineyard in Aÿ. The elegant, ruity, 

mature, rich and powerul 2012 vintage is considered 

to be one o the decade’s top vintages. 

Only 6,100 bottles were released. 

Tel.: +33 3 26 55 15 88 

E-mail: info@champagne-collet.com 

Website: http://www.champagne-collet.com 

CHAMPAGNE GUY CHARBAUT 

93/100 

g BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS 1ER CRU 

MEMORY 2006 

D Beautiful yellow-gold. Delicate nose showing ethereal 

loral and lemony tones. The texture on the palate 

is incredibly silky and remarkably full, all of which 

meshes with substantial aromatic persistency in this 

Champagne for gourmet foods. Price: € 52.70 

PRESENTATION: The Guy Charbaut family have been 

winegrowers from father to son for three generations, 

maintaining the signature style of their Champagne 

House and perpetuating both their prestigious name 

and quality oferings. In the winery, Xavier Charbaut 

reduces dosage to produce ner Champagnes and lets 

his wines age peacefully on the lees to maximise 

development of aromas and complexity. He is the 

custodian of the house blend style and promotes 

environmentally-friendly practices on the estate by 

advocating sustainable winegrowing techniques 

certied ‘Viticulture Durable en Champagne’ and High 

Environmental Value (HVE level 3). 

Tel.: +33 3 26 52 60 59 

E-mail: contact@champagne-guy-charbaut.com 

Website: http://www.champagne-guy-charbaut.com 

CHAMPAGNE JEEPER 93/100 

D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS GRANDE 

RÉSERVE: Brilliant, clear yellow-gold. Very 

compelling nose of ripe apple and pear with a 

touch of white flowers and hazelnut. Creamy, 

ample attack on the palate with intense 

aromatics mirroring the chiselled nose aromas. 

Incredible length! 

http://www.champagne-jeeper.fr - http://www. 

champagne-francois-dubois.com Price: € 55.00 

Les Domaines Jeeper +33 3 26 05 08 98 

CHAMPAGNE OLIVIER BONVILLE 93/100 

HVE D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND 

CRU ODYSSÉE 319: Light gold. Very delicate 

nose where fruit becomes more intense, with 

white peach, apple and pear tones. Very creamy 

texture on the palate which is very mouthfilling. 

The finish is persistent, voluptuous and 

fresh. This is art at its finest. 

http://www.champagne-franck-bonville. 

com Price: € 31.00 

Champagne Olivier Bonville +33 3 26 57 52 30 

CHAMPAGNE SOUTIRAN 93/100 

D BRUT GRAND CRU M 2015: Beautiful 

glistening yellow-gold. Compelling nose 

showing ripe white fruit tones, dried herbs and 

a pastry touch. Nicely delineated attack with 

fruit, tension and intensity. The wide array of 

nose aromas flows through. Superb. 

http://www.soutiran.com Price: € 54.00 

Champagne Soutiran +33 3 26 57 07 87 

CHAMPAGNE CANARD-DUCHÊNE 92/100 

D BRUT NATURE V 2012: Beautiful pale 

gold. Open nose accented by dried herbs, dried 

straw and super ripe fruits. The palate stays 

beautifully tense and aromas are impeccably 




PUBS_CUVEES_G&G_N°50_OK_Mise en page 1 02/12/2022 17:23 

showcased with a fresh, persistent feel. This is a 

Champagne for gourmet food. 

http://www.canard-duchene.fr Price: € 65.00 

Champagne Canard-Duchêne +33 3 26 61 11 60 

CHAMPAGNE FREREJEAN FRÈRES 92/100 

D EXTRA BRUT 1ER CRU CUVÉE DES 

HUSSARDS 2012: Yellow-gold. Ultra ripe nose 

accented by candied fruits and undergrowth. 

Beautiful fleshy, silky attack on the palate 

flowing into a very perfumed middle palate 

accented by hazelnut. Drink as a food-friendly 

Champagne for fish. 

https://frerejeanfreres.com/ Price: € 190.00 

Champagne Frerejean Frères +33 1 80 50 20 03 

CHAMPAGNE G. TRIBAUT 92/100 

D BRUT 1ER CRU GRANDE CUVÉE 

SPÉCIALE: Beautiful pale yellow. Delicate nose 

of white fruits coupled with an elegant biscuit 

tone. Very pure palate where the fresh attack 

showcases the chiselled aromas. Delicate 

toasted, persistent finish. 

https://champagne-tribaut-hautvillers.com/fr/ Price: € 25.70 

Champagne G. Tribaut 03 26 59 40 57 

CHAMPAGNE LAURENT LEQUART 92/100 

HVE D EXTRA BRUT 2015: Lovely golden 

hue. Subtle nose which is floral on first pour 

then flows into subtle pastry and toast tones. A 

real sense of fulfilment comes through on the 

palate, which is very silky, fresh and expressive. 

The finish is mouth-filling, persistent and 

delicate. Gold standard. 

http://www.champagne-lequart.fr Price: € 65.00 

Champagne Laurent Lequart +33 3 26 58 97 48 

CHAMPAGNE LOMBARD 92/100 

D BRUT NATURE GRAND CRU LE MESNIL 

SUR OGER: Clear, light gold. Delicate nose 

of white flowers and biscuit. Lively at point of 

entry yet also very well-balanced and showcasing 

lovely flavours underscored by a saline touch. A 

Champagne that offers a vibrant rendition of its 

terroir. 

http://www.champagne-lombard.com Price: € 58.00 

Champagne Lombard +33 3 26 59 57 40 

CHAMPAGNE MARCELLIN BEAUFORT 92/100 

D EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU - MARCELLIN: 

Beautiful bright yellow-gold. Pleasant fruity 

nose coupled with a biscuit tone. The palate is 

energetic, fleshy and perfumed. Tension flows 

through to the finish and supports aromas 

over substantial length. This is a chiselled 

Champagne that works best with food. 

Price: € 26.55 

La Commanderie Diffusion +33 6 07 10 91 18 

CHAMPAGNE MAURICE VESSELLE 92/100 

D EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU 2012: Lovely 

clear, golden hue. Very pure, fruity nose 

combining cherry, fig and lots of freshness. 

The palate is very clean and gifted with lovely 

tension. The same, very appealing mineral and 

fruity characters recur on the finish. 

http://www.champagnemauricevesselle.com Price: € 39.00 

Champagne Maurice Vesselle +33 3 26 57 00 81 

CHAMPAGNE MICHEL ARNOULD & FILS 92/100 

D EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU TERRE DE 

BLANCS 2017: Pale gold. Nose of white fruits 

with toast tones after swirling the glass. Lovely 

textured, very silky, expressive, fresh palate. 

Long fruity finish enhanced by toast notes. 

http://www.champagne-michel-arnould.com Price: € 38.00 

Champagne Michel Arnould & Fils +33 3 26 49 40 06 

CHAMPAGNE P. LANCELOT-ROYER 92/100 

D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND CRU 

CUVÉE DES CHEVALIERS: Beautiful vibrant 

yellow-gold. The nose is intense yet delicate, 

with fruity notes entwined with pastries and 

fresh hazelnut. The palate is ample, silky and 

delicate and offers up great quality aromatics. A 

Champagne with a sense of fulfilment. 

Price: € 25.00 

Champagne P. Lancelot-Royer +33 3 26 57 51 41 

CHAMPAGNE PAUL DÉTHUNE 92/100 

CONV D EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU BLANC 

DE NOIRS: Beautiful, brilliant yellow-gold. 

Super ripe nose showing tones of ripe plum and 

fig. The palate is fleshy, silky and expressive. 

This is a dense, vinous Champagne designed 

more for food. 

http://www.champagne-dethune.com Price: € 56.00 

Champagne Paul Déthune +33 3 26 57 01 88 

CHAMPAGNE LAURIANNE LEJOUR 91/100 

CR D BRUT GRAND CRU: Beautiful yellowgold 

with amber highlights. Delicate nose 

marrying red and white berry fruit tones. Great 

tension, elegance, chiselled aromas and a finish 

that stays fresh and persistent on the palate in 

this food-friendly Champagne. 

Price: € 32.00 

Champagne Laurianne Lejour +33 6 64 42 99 08 

CHAMPAGNE VIGNON PÈRE & FILS 91/100 

CR D EXTRA BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS 

ROCHELLES-POTENCES 2018: Appealing 

pale gold with green tints. Clean, delicate nose 

scented with white flowers and almonds. The 

palate is fresh and silky yet with racy expression. 

The finish is gratifying with delightful notes of 

hazelnut and almond. Superb! 

https://www.champagne-vignon.com/fr/ Price: € 36.00 

Champagne Vignon Père & Fils +33 3 26 49 80 39 

CHAMPAGNE CHARLES ELLNER 

92/100 

g BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS 

D Bright, brilliant light gold. Delicate nose where 

accents of white lowers are entwined with biscuit tones. 

Distinctive attack on the palate. A leshy, aromatic 

Champagne underpinned by a very elegant saline edge. 

A Chardonnay for gourmet foods. Price: € 25 

PRESENTATION: Founded in 1905 by Charles-Emile 

Ellner, the House is still family-run. Pierre Ellner 

perpetuated the work of his father by establishing the 

foundations for quality which lend the brand its excellent 

image. His four sons – Jacques, Michel, Jean-Pierre and 

Philippe – took over the reins with the same spirit. Today, 

Jean-Pierre and his wife manage the company with the 

help of the fourth generation. Emmanuelle and Alexandra 

handle marketing, communications and administrative 

tasks whilst Frédéric and Arnaud manage the vineyards 

and work in the winery. Together, they are bringing change 

to the company so that it can cope with the demands of 

present-day markets, modernising the facilities in Epernay 

whilst safeguarding tradition and the family spirit. 

Tel.: +33 3 26 55 60 25 

E-mail: info@champagne-ellner.com 

Website: http://www.champagne-ellner.com 


121




en page 1 08/11/2022 15:00 

CHAMPAGE COSSY 90/100 

CR D EXTRA BRUT ORIGINE: Brilliant 

yellow-gold. Very pure, fruity nose showing 

white peach and pear tones. Very clean attack 

brimming with freshness and aroma. This is an 

appetising, aromatic and persistent Champagne 

for an elaborate buffet. 

http://www.champagne-cossy.com Price: € 30.00 

Champagne F Cossy +33 3 26 49 75 56 

CHAMPAGNE CHARLES COQUET 90/100 

D BRUT GRAND CRU L’ELÉGANT: Beautiful 

light gold. Spring-like nose that is floral on first 

pour then flows into ripe white fruit tones. Very 

clean attack on the palate with wonderful fruit 

purity and an appetising saline touch on the 

finish. 

Price: € 36.00 

Champagne Charles Coquet +33 3 26 57 07 87 

CHAMPAGNE CHARLES GARDET 90/100 

Flore and Francine (right) at the helm 

of the Aÿ-based company. 

CHAMPAGNE DAUBY: 

AN UNWAVERING 

COMMITMENT 

PORTRAIT: This house has a privileged location in the 

historic birthplace of the nest Champagnes, in Aÿ- 

Champagne. Owning 8 hectares of vines, 60% of them 

Pinot noir with a balance of Chardonnay, across 5 

villages including one classied as Grand Cru and three 

as Premiers Crus, it controls every stage of 

winegrowing, from planting to harvesting, thereby 

guaranteeing the provenance of its wines. It sets great 

store by marketing rare, authentic and even unique 

labels that align with its determination to preserve 

nature, through its commitment to environmental 

traceability, zero pesticides and converting all of its 

Chardonnay vines over to organic. 

Tel.: +33 3 26 54 96 49 

E-mail: champagne.dauby@orange.fr 

Website: https://champagne-dauby.fr/ 

CHAMPAGNE DOM CAUDRON 

90/100 

■ BRUT CORNALYNE 

D Appealing, light gold. Delicate nose showing floral 

tones and ripe white ruits. Beautiully textured palate 

with lots o nesse and silkiness. Exuberance shows 

through a little more on the nish. A generous Champagne 

with excellent balance. 

Price: € 35.90 

PRESENTATION : Champagne Dom Caudron was 

founded in 1929. With complete control over 

production, from the vineyard to the wine glass, it now 

boasts 90 winegrowers who produce terroir-driven 

Champagne crated from 130 hectares under vine 

located across the hillsides of the Marne Valley around 

Passy-Grigny. Pinot Meunier is the iconic grape variety 

in this western part of Champagne and accounts for 

80% of acreage. The vineyard sites of Passy-Grigny, 

which are perfectly suited to this varietal, naturally 

favoured the production of Blanc de Noirs, allowing 

Pinot Meunier to fully reveal its roundness and intense 

fruitiness, creating the perfect match for the Dom 

Caudron style. 

Tel.: +33 3 26 52 45 17 

E-mail: champagne@domcaudron.fr 

Website: http://www.domcaudron.fr 

D BRUT PRESTIGE 2006: Beautiful yellowgold. 

Very mature nose with dried herb and 

artichoke accents. More of the same, very ripe 

aromatics on the palate which nevertheless 

shows an appealing sheen, balance and length. A 

Champagne that will gradually reveal itself and 

pairs with foie gras. 

http://www.champagne-gardet.com Price: € 62.00 

Champagne Gardet +33 3 26 03 42 03 

CHAMPAGNE DAUBY 90/100 

HVE D BRUT 1ER CRU MÈRE ET FILLE 

2014: Very appealing yellow-gold. Pleasant, 

expressive nose with floral and pastry tones. The 

palate is very full right from the start with very 

soft effervescence and sustained freshness. A 

Champagne that is in great shape. 

https://champagne-dauby.fr/ Price: € 35.00 

Champagne Dauby +33 3 26 54 96 49 

CHAMPAGNE DE SAINT-GALL 90/100 

CONV D BRUT GRAND CRU SO DARK 

2015: Beautiful light gold. Pleasant nose where 

fruit tones are entwined with a toast touch. The 

palate is fleshy and very lush and fresh. The fruit 

aromas are very user-friendly and prevail right 

through to the finish. 

http://www.de-saint-gall.com Price: € 38.00 

Champagne de Saint-Gall +33 3 26 57 94 22 

CHAMPAGNE DENIS BOVIÈRE 90/100 

CONV D BRUT BLANC DE NOIRS GRAND 

CRU: Beautiful brilliant yellow-gold. Elegant 

nose of red berry fruits with a biscuit touch after 

airing. The palate is dense and fleshy at point of 

entry then leads into a vinous mid-palate. The 

aromas are precise and quite persistent. A foodfriendly 

Champagne for poultry. 

Price: € 20.70 

Champagne Denis Bovière +33 3 26 49 43 40 




VERZENAY BETWEEN THE LIGHTHOUSE AND THE WINDMILL (CHAMPAGNE MICHEL ARNOULD & FILS) 

CHAMPAGNE GUY DUMANGIN 90/100 

CR D BRUT 1ER CRU 2014: Beautiful pale 

gold. Ultra ripe nose accented by cherries 

coupled with a pastry tone. Mature, almost 

jammy palate. Freshness supports aromas over 

substantial length. Drink with sweetbreads. 

Price: € 22.00 

Champagne Guy Dumangin +33 3 26 03 46 25 

CHAMPAGNE JACQUINET-DUMEZ 90/100 

CR D EXTRA BRUT 1ER CRU LUMINISTE: 

Beautiful, very bright, light gold. Expressive 

nose showing red berry fruits. Lovely clean palate 

with unquestionably good quality freshness and 

fruit. The finish is persistent, saline and very 

distinctive. 

http://www.champagne-jacquinet-dumez.com Price: € 27.00 

Champagne Jacquinet-Dumez +33 3 26 36 25 25 

CHAMPAGNE KONRAT 90/100 

HVE D VELOURS: Light gold. The nose shows 

contrasting aromas of ripe fruits and slightly 

bitter herbal notes. The palate is soft and 

displays great balance with fruit aromas framed 

by sugar. This is a very novel style that works 

best towards the end of the evening. 

Price: € 138.70 

Champagne Konrat +33 6 45 58 71 76 

CHAMPAGNE LEGRAS-FRAPART & FILS 90/100 

D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND CRU 

CUVÉE HARMONIE: Vibrant yellow-gold. The 

nose is very endearing and expressive, with a 

fusion of white fruit tones and fresh hazelnut. 

The palate is creamy with more of the same 

seductive aromas and tension that extends the 

finish. Beautiful. 

https://www.champagne-legras-frapart.com Price: € 20.00 

Champagne Legras-Frapart & Fils +33 6 29 23 87 48 

CHAMPAGNE PAUL SADI 90/100 

CR D BRUT GRAND CRU BELLUS MONS 

2017: Beautiful light gold. Alluring nose where 

fruit entwines with a pastry tone. Great richness 

on the palate is supported by freshness. The very 

pleasant ripe, tangy flavours are sustained over 

great length. 

https://www.champagne-paul-sadi.fr/ Price: € 44.00 

Champagne Paul Sadi +33 3 26 40 25 18 

CHAMPAGNE TAISNE RIOCOUR 90/100 

HVE D BRUT GRANDE RÉSERVE: Beautiful 

pale gold. Perky fruity nose with a biscuit tone 

bordering on pastry in the background. The 

palate is nicely balanced and combines freshness 

and vinosity. The fruit gradually establishes 

itself and fills the finish over great length. 

Price: € 28.50 

Champagne Taisne Riocour +33 3 25 29 64 37 

CHAMPAGNE VERRIER & FILS 90/100 

HVE D BRUT FLEURON: Beautiful bright 

yellow-gold. Rich nose marrying white fruits 

and a pastry tone. The palate is mature and 

offers up great tension and elegant aromas with 

a perceptible toast tone. A Champage for food. 

Price: € 20.60 

Champagne Verrier & Fils +33 3 26 59 32 42 


123

GERMANY - MOSEL 


GERMANY 

There is no doubting the fact that 

Germany has long been a wine 

producing country, just like any 

region to which the Romans travelled. 

But volumes are comparatively 

low and few wines are exported. 

Despite this, Germany produces 

some interesting wines, particularly 

whites, including a high proportion 

of organic offerings. 

MOSEL 

MOSEL ALL SUB-REGIONS 

PROPSTEI EBERNACH 89/100 

D TROCKEN - RIESLING FEINHERB 2020 

ttps://einig-zenzen.de/en/weinhandel-einig-zenzen.html Price: € 5.99 

Einig-Zenzen GmbH +49 2653 9907 24 

PFALZ 

PFALZ ALL SUB-REGIONS 

RUPPERTSBERGER WEINKELLER 91/100 

D VON WALLBERG RIESLING 2021: Golden 

yellow. Profound, enticing nose combining 

candied fruits and a mineral, saline edge. 

Great presence on the palate. A crisp, fleshy 

Riesling with more of the minerality and salinity 

enhancing the fruit. 

https://www.ruppertsberger.de/ Price: € 14.95 

Ruppertsberger Weinkeller Hoheburg eG +49 6326962970 

STUDIER 90/100 

ORG D DEIDESHEIMER LETTEN 2021: 

Lemon-yellow. The nose delivers multiple fresh 

fruit aromas with peaches, citrus and green 

fruits. The customary charm of Riesling is here, 

with superb freshness, exuberance and precisely 

defined fruit flavours. The finish is palatable 

and balanced. 

https://weingut-studier.de/ Price: € 8.90 

Weingut Studier +49 6237 977 280 

WEINGUT-SCHOENLAUB 90/100 

D VON MUSKATELLER 2021: Brilliant light 

yellow-gold. Appealing nose blending grape, 

pineapple and peach. Ethereal palate lifted 

by deliciously crisp freshness which offers 

generous support to the delightful flavours. 

Subtle sweetness adds to the charm. Certainly 

won us over! 

https://weingut-schoenlaub.de/en/ Price: € 12.90 

Weingut-Schoenlaub +49 6343 8142 

WEINGUT-SCHOENLAUB 90/100 

D TAYEN 2012: Deep garnet with bricking. 

Generous nose unfurling morello cherry, plum, 

fine spices, liquorice and tar. Nervy, ample 

palate with a broad-ranging line-up of mature 

aromatics showing delicious intensity and 

purity. Pairs with small game. 

https://weingut-schoenlaub.de/en/ Price: € 15.10 

Weingut-Schoenlaub +49 6343 8142 

YOKO 90/100 

D RIESLING 2021: Brilliant, eye-catching 

golden yellow. Good characteristic nose 

combining grapes and an elegant mineral 

dimension. Same flavours on the palate which 

shows textbook proportions and great aromatic 

personality. 

Price: € 13.00 

Anora +358 40 767 0867 

STUDIER 88/100 

ORG D WEISSBURGUNDER 2021 

https://weingut-studier.de/ Price: € 9.90 

Weingut Studier +49 6237 977 280 

RHEINGAU 

RHEINGAU ALL SUB-REGIONS 

MOHR 93/100 

ORG D RIESLING BODENTAL-STEINBERG 

2019: Beautiful brilliant straw-yellow. The 

nose is very complex with a harmonious 

fusion of ripe white fruit notes and an intense 

mineral backbone. The palate is very complex 

and perfumed and displays outstanding acid 

balance. A consummate offering. 

http://www.weingut-mohr.de Price: € 32.00 

Weingut Mohr +49 06726 94 84 

MOHR 92/100 

ORG D LORCHER SCHLOSSBERG RIESLING 

34 2020: Beautiful pale yellow with light green 

tints. Expressive nose with petrol-like accents 

melded with a pleasant fruity edge. The palate 

opens up to a tense, mineral style which is very 

pared-down and shows great typicity. A classic. 


Weingut Mohr +49 06726 94 84 

MOHR 92/100 

ORG D LORCHER SCHLOSSBERG - 

RIESLING EISWEIN 2020: Beautiful brilliant 

pale yellow. Intense, concentrated, racy nose 

reminiscent of raisins and sweet spices. Very 

harmoniously balanced fat and acidity on the 

palate usher in a finish showing top-flight 

aromas. 


Weingut Mohr +49 06726 94 84 

RHEINHESSEN 

RHEINHESSEN ALL SUB-REGIONS 

EINIG-ZENZEN 90/100 

D MARIENGOLD ICE - AUSLESE - 

PREDICATE WINE - 37,5 CL : Very pretty old 

gold with coppery highlights. Concentrated nose 

recalling fruit paste and rhubarb. The palate is 

very dense with jammy fruit aromatics showing 

very pleasant quince and rhubarb accents. Well 

worth trying. 

https://einig-zenzen.de/en/weinhandel-einig-zenzen.html Price: € 9.99 

Einig-Zenzen GmbH +49 2653 9907 24 

HOMBURGER KALLMUTH IN FRANCONIA, TERRASSED PLOTS OVERLOOKING THE RIVER MAIN. 

MATTHIAS NESKE 


ITALY - ROMAGNA D.O.C. SANGIOVESE RISERVA DI BERTINORO 


ITALY 

Italy is a major wine producing 

country, both for its extensive 

vineyard acreage and its skilfully 

crafted wines. It is also one of Europe 

and the world’s leading countries for 

organic and biodynamic wines. We 

round off our tour of Italy with two 

regions that are still fairly underthe-radar 

but are home to some real 

gems that should be explored without 

further ado – Umbria and Emilia- 

Romagna. 

EMILIA-ROMAGNA 

ALBANA DI ROMAGNA D.O.C. 

I CROPPI 90/100 

ORG D ALBANA 2021: Brilliant strawyellow. 

Endearing nose revealing peach, yellow 

fruits, an exotic tone and acacia. The palate is 

ample, plump and fresh with fruit augmented 

by a touch of salinity. Spice and citrus fruit 

notes then bolster the range of flavours in this 

successful wine. 

http://www.celli-vini.com Price: € 9.00 

Celli Vini +39 0543 445 183 

EMILIA I.G.T. 

ALBINEA CANALI 91/100 

CR D EXTRA DRY OTTOCENTOROSA : 

Beautiful intense salmon. Captivating nose 

marrying violets and red berry fruits. The 

palate displays impressive intensity, persistent 

aromatics and a very elegant, carefully etched 

backbone. Effervescence is nicely framed. Great 

craftsmanship. 

http://www.riunite.it Price: € 7.50 

Cantine Riunite & CIV Sca +39 0522 90 5711 

FORLI I.G.T. 

LA PALAZZA 91/100 

ORG D LILLYBETH - VEGAN 2021: Deep 

garnet with ruby highlights. Nose of stone fruits, 

hot spice, liquorice, tar. Impressively dense 

palate, very flavoursome. Warm attack then 

develops a more supple feel with fresh tannin, 

and focuses gently on the fruit at the end. 

http://www.dreidona.it Price: € 10.00 

Drei Dona’ Tenuta La Palazza +39 0543 769 371 


ORG D IL TORNESE - LE ORIGINI 2020: 

Vibrant light yellow. Racy nose combining white 

fruits with buttery and floral notes. Seductively 

moreish fullness on the palate framed by bold 

freshness and pure, focused, intense aromas 

enhanced by a trace of sweetness and a spicy 

finish. 



LAMBRUSCO DI MODENA D.O.C. 

CANTINE RIUNITE 88/100 

CR D DRY RIGHI 

http://www.riunite.it Price: € 5.50 

Cantine Riunite & CIV Sca +39 0522 90 5711 

LAMBRUSCO GRASPAROSSA 

DI CASTELVETRO D.O.C 

CANTINA SETTECANI DI CASTELVETRO 90/100 

ORG D SECCO BIOLOGICO : Beautiful light 

red with purple-blue. Subdued nose of red fruits. 

The palate is very intense with gorgeous fruit 

and effervescence which adds freshness. The 

finish is long, fruit-forward and very focused. 

http://www.cantinasettecani.it Price: € 9.00 

Cantina Settecani-Castelvetro SAC +39 059 702 505 

CANTINA SETTECANI DI CASTELVETRO 88/100 

ORG D AMABILE SWEET 

http://www.cantinasettecani.it Price: € 6.00 

Cantina Settecani-Castelvetro SAC +39 0597 02 505 

TENUTA PEDERZANA 88/100 

ORG D PUNTAMORA 2020 

http:// Price: € 14.30 

Tenuta Pederzana +39 347 785 7397 

LAMBRUSCO SALAMINO DI 

SANTA CROCE D.O.C. 

CANTINA DI SANTA CROCE 89/100 

ORG D IL PRIMO 2021 

http://www.cantinasantacroce.it Price: € 5.28 

Cantina di Santa Croce +39 0596 64 007 

REGGIANO D.O.C 

MEDICI ERMETE 90/100 

ORG D CONCERTO 2021: Deeply coloured 

with young purple-blue tints. Very appealing 

nose combining perfumes of blackberry, crisp 

red and black fruits and blackcurrant bud. The 

palate is fine and offers up a pleasant frothy 

texture that leaves the fruit all the room it needs 

to express itself. 

http://www.medici.it Price: € 20.00 

Medici Ermete & Figli +39 0522 94 21 35 

MEDICI ERMETE 86/100 

CR D QUERCIOLI 

http://www.medici.it Price: € 15.00 

Medici Ermete & Figli +39 0522 94 21 35 

ROMAGNA ALBANA D.O.C.G. 

CELLI 94/100 

CONV D SOLARA ALBANA PASSIO 50 CL 

2018: Beautiful brilliant old gold. Captivating 

nose combining tropical fruits, vanilla, honey 

and candied notes. Fleshy, concentrated, lush 

palate invigorated by subtle freshness and a 

saline touch. Magnificently gentle flavours in 

this marvellous wine. 


Celli Vini +39 0543 445 183 

AZIENDA AGRICOLA BRANCHINI 89/100 

CR D DUTIA 2021 

http://www.branchini1858.it/ Price: € 9.00 

Azienda Agricola Branchini +39 0542 53 778 

ROMAGNA D.O.C. 

SANGIOVESE DI PREDAPPIO 


ORG D NOTTURNO 2020: Concentrated 

appearance with ruby glints. Attractive nose 

of stone fruits, spice, vanilla and sun-warmed 

stone. Irresistible on the palate for its density 

and explosive sun-drenched flavours. Perfect 

tannic extraction giving sweetness and minty 

freshness. 



SAN JOVES 88/100 

CONV D 2018 

https://www.sadivino.com/ Price: € 12.00 

SaDiVino +39 3665 949 948 

ROMAGNA D.O.C. SANGIOVESE 

RISERVA DI BERTINORO 

CELLI 91/100 

ORG D BRON RUSEVAL 2018: Intense 

garnet. Expressive nose revealing sour cherry, 

plum and a touch of maquis and spice. Fresh, 

juicy palate with an elegant profile and mature, 

well-defined aromas. Delicately spicy finish 

with silky tannins. A convincing wine. 


Celli Vini +39 0543 445 183 


125

ITALY - ROMAGNA D.O.C. SANGIOVESE SUPERIORE 


ROMAGNA D.O.C. 

SANGIOVESE SUPERIORE 

SIMONA’ 86/100 

CONV D 2019 

https://www.sadivino.com/ Price: € 10.00 

SaDiVino +39 3665 949 948 

RUBICONE I.G.T. 

AMARACMAND 92/100 

ORG D IMPERFETTO 2019: Cherry-red with 

garnet-brown tints. Menthol, oaky nose with 

notes of cedar, stone fruits and wild herbs. Very 

supple, delicately textured palate. Well-balanced 

fruit and oak flavours offer up a tannin rebound 

on the finish in this graceful Sangiovese. 

https://www.amaracmand.com/it/ Price: € 30.00 

Amaracmand +39 33 92 437 627 

AMARACMAND 90/100 

ORG D ONICA 2019: Medium intense 

colour with garnet-brown tints. Jammy cherries, 

plums and blackberries on the nose with smoky, 

ash-like undertones. Supple palate revolving 

around a delicate mouthfeel and polished 

tannins. Moreish, expressive fruit. A charming 

wine for a romantic evening. 

https://www.amaracmand.com/it/ Price: € 25.00 

Amaracmand +39 33 92 437 627 

VINO SPUMANTE DI QUALITÀ 

AZIENDA AGRICOLA BRANCHINI 90/100 

CR D BRUT 1858 : Vibrant pale hue with 

generous mousse. Elegant nose where yellow 

plum fuses with spring-like scents. The palate is 

ethereal with a crisp, intense aromatic spectrum 

of grapefruit and salinity driven by harmonious 

effervescence. Makes a great aperitif-style wine. 

http://www.branchini1858.it/ Price: € 17.90 

Azienda Agricola Branchini +39 0542 53 778 

UMBRIA 

MONTEFALCO D.O.C. 

LA VENERANDA 92/100 

CR D 2020: Pale colour with mature 

highlights. Fine vanilla-like nose with notes of 

fresh cherries and blackcurrants, sweet spices 

and mint. Solid, dense palate with a promising 

fleshy feel. Well-established fruit is underscored 

by racy tannins. Shows obvious potential. 

http://www.laveneranda.com/en/ Price: € 12.50 

La Veneranda +39 3510 777 219 

ARNALDO CAPRAI 90/100 

CR D RISERVA 2018: Deep red with brown 

reflections. Nose of undergrowth, fig, stone 

fruits and sweet spices. The palate offers up a 

woodland walk with pine forest aromas. Heat, 

intensity, spices and powerful tannins lend this 

wine real southern characters. 

http://www.arnaldocaprai.it Price: € 23.00 

Arnaldo Caprai +39 0742 378 802 


CR D VIGNA FLAMINIA MAREMMANA 2019 



MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO 

D.O.C.G. 

ANTONELLI 94/100 

ORG D MOLINO DELL’ATTONE 2015: 

Concentrated red tinged with garnet-brown. 

Nose of stewed stone fruits, tobacco and 

mushroom with an animal feel. Generous palate 

with dense tannins, sun-ripened fruit and 

complex herbal and undergrowth aromatics. 

This is a wine with plenty of surprises still in 

store. 

http://www.antonellisanmarco.it Price: € 40.00 

Antonelli San Marco +39 0742 379 158 

IL GHEPPIO 94/100 

CR D IL DOMENICALE 2015: Dark garnet 

with bricking. Endearing nose offering up 

a blend of black stone fruits, blackcurrant, 

liquorice, menthol and herbal notes. Fullbodied, 

heady palate revealing a broad range 

of mature aromatics. A profound, dense wine 

showing superb authenticity. Pairs with game. 

http://www.cantineilgheppio.it Price: € 50.00 

Il Gheppio +39 3382 935 029 

THE BRANCHINI 1858 COMPANY BLENDS TRADITION AND MODERNITY, WITH A SUSTAINABLE AND RESPECTFUL VISION OF THE TERRITORY. 


ITALY - UMBRIA I.G.T. 


IL GHEPPIO 90/100 

CR D A STEFANO 2015: Deep garnet with 

amber tints. Generous nose with red fruits, 

cherries, dried herbs and oak. Ample, structured 

palate which wraps its flavours in a touch of 

sweetness. Dense and firm with lots of energy 

and a lovely traditional herbal finish. 

http://www.cantineilgheppio.it Price: € 24.00 

Il Gheppio +39 3382 935 029 

MONTIONI 90/100 

CONV D SAGRANTINO 2016: Intense 

garnet starting to mature. Shy nose opening 

up after airing to morello cherry, spice, dried 

fruit and menthol notes with subtle oak. Heady, 

powerful palate with fiery aromas. Still firm, 

fresh and at its peak. Pairs with game. 

http://www.gabrielemontioni.it Price: € 22.00 

Azienda Agricola Montioni +39 0742 379 214 

A TYPICAL AUTUMNAL LANDSCAPE OF MONTEFALCO WITH ITS ROLLING HILLS OF VINEYARDS 

(UMBRIA) 


CR D 25 ANNI 2016: Concentrated garnet 

with brown reflections. Mature nose exuding 

a blend of leather, undergrowth, cinnamon, 

stone fruits and condiments. Powerful, dense 

palate with nicely integrated, bold tannins. 

Fruit couples with gamey notes in this beautiful 

terroir-driven wine. 



LA VENERANDA 93/100 

CR D 2018: Concentrated colour with brown 

highlights. A delicate smoky vanilla backbone 

meshes with jammy forest fruits, strong spices 

and wild plants on the nose. The palate displays 

a solid tannin core with irresistible fruit density 

and a slender fleshy feel. Extensive ageability is 

guaranteed. 

http://www.laveneranda.com/en/ Price: € 25.00 

La Veneranda +39 3510 777 219 

MONTIONI 93/100 

CONV D MA.GIA 2016: Deep garnet with 

bricking. Beautiful exotic nose marrying spices, 

liquorice, eucalyptus and a touch of maquis with 

fruit undertones. Silky attack then a full-bodied, 

virile, dense palate showing seductive precision 

and generous proportions. A top-flight wine. 

http://www.gabrielemontioni.it Price: € 50.00 

Azienda Agricola Montioni +39 0742 379 214 

ANTONELLI 92/100 

ORG D CHIUSA DI PANNONE 2015: Fairly 

deep red with garnet-brown tints. Ripe nose 

intermixing stewed black fruits, smoky notes 

and exotic wood. Tight-knit tannin structure 

imposing mature fruity and herbal aromas. A 

concentrated wine with ambitious ageability. 

http://www.antonellisanmarco.it Price: € 32.00 

Antonelli San Marco +39 0742 379 158 

LE CIMATE 92/100 

CR D DONNA GIULLIA 2015: Deep garnet 

with bricking. Exotic nose revealing black fruits, 

menthol, spices and maquis perfumes. The 

palate is velvety, powerful and deep with feisty, 

balanced southern aromas and substantial 

freshness. Reaching its peak. Superb. 

http://www.lecimate.it Price: € 60.00 

Le Cimate +39 3483 852 165 


ORG D COLLEPIANO 2017: Deep garnet 

with bricking. Expressive nose revealing red 

fruits, spices, tobacco, menthol and a lovely 

floral accent. The same complex aromatic 

spectrum carries over to the palate, enhanced 

by substantial freshness and traditional herbal 

aromatics. A successful wine. 



BOCALE 91/100 

CONV D 2017: Intense garnet. Generous 

nose marrying strawberry, raspberry, mixed 

spice and fern with menthol and mocha touches. 

The palate is certainly not sparing on the 

aromatics, with complex, mature flavours that 

ease into lovely sourness and a traditional herbal 

touch. 

http://www.bocale.it Price: € 23.00 

Azienda Agricola Bocale +39 0742 399 233 

ORVIETO CLASSICO D.O.C. 

SUPERIORE 

CANTINA LAPONE 90/100 

CR D L’ESCLUSO 2020: Light yellow-gold 

with pale green tints. Nose of white fruits and 

citrus with balsamic, menthol touches. Clean, 

tense, fruit-forward palate, echoing the nose 

and revealing elegant sourness on the finish. 

Pairs with shellfish or goat’s cheeses. 

Price: € 23.00 

Cantina Lapone +39 3475 472 898 

SPOLETO D.O.C. 

BOCALE 89/100 

CONV D 2021 

http://www.bocale.it Price: € 10.00 

Azienda Agricola Bocale +39 0742 399 233 

UMBRIA I.G.T. 

CANTINA LAPONE 90/100 

CR D L’INCLUSO 2020: Bright red with 

crimson tints. Expressive nose combining 

plum, spices, a touch of raspberry and oaky 

undertones. Welcome freshness drives the 

youthful aromas of the wine on the palate, which 

expresses itself naturally and elegantly. Needs 

more time. 

http:// Price: € 25.00 

Cantina Lapone +39 3475 472 898 

OLUMBRA 87/100 

CR D 2020 

Price: € 10.90 

Mevante +39 349 805 7501 


127

SOUTH AFRICA - WESTERN CAPE 



The Breede River Valley is set within 

a landscape that makes it one of the 

Western Cape’s most highly prized 

locations for growing wine. Vines 

thrive in its Mediterranean climate, 

whose distinctive seasons shape 

wines with a strong personality. 

WESTERN CAPE 

WESTERN CAPE 

BALANCE 88/100 

D CAT MUSCAT 2022 

http://www.overhex.com Price: € 3.00 

Overhex Wines +27 23 347 6838 

THE WILD WOMAN 87/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 

Price: € 7.00 

Opstal Estate +27 23 344-3001 

LAND’S END 86/100 


http://www.dutoitskloof.co.za Price: € 3.00 

Du Toitskloof Wines +27 23 349 1601 

DU TOITSKLOOF 85/100 

D MERLOT 2020 



WESTERN CAPE - BREEDE 

RIVER VALLEY 

BONNIEVALE 

BONNIEVALE 89/100 

D LIMITED RELEASE CABERNET 

SAUVIGNON 2020 

http://www.bonnievalewines.co.za/ Price: € 8.69 

Bonnievale +27 23 616 2795 

BONNIEVALE 88/100 

D THE RIVER COLLECTION SAUVIGNON 

BLANC 2022 

http://www.bonnievalewines.co.za/ Price: € 3.67 

Bonnievale +27 23 616 2795 

BREEDEKLOOF 

SILKBUSH 91/100 

D ALTITUDE 2019: Ruby garnet. Leather and 

spice on the developed nose. Dried fruit and 

prunes on the leathery palate with a mature, but 

still youthful mid-palate and a rich aftertaste. 

Layered and complex. Drink through 2027. 

Price: € 12.30 

Silkbush Mountain Vineyards +27 83 629 1735 

MOUNTAIN RIDGE 90/100 

D SHIRAZ 2020: Light ruby. Spicy nose with 

hints of dark berry. Red cherry and cranberry on 

the medium palate with a spicy note on leathery 

finish. Drink through 2026. 

http://mountainridge.co.za Price: € 5.45 

Mountain Ridge +27 23 004 1492 


D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020: Ruby 

brick. Spice and leather on the earthy nose. 

Palate is rich and full with red cherry and 

leathery spice following the nose. Layered on the 

complex finish. Drink through 2028. 




D SINGLE VINEYARD PINOTAGE 2021 

Price: € 40.00 


DEETLEFS 88/100 

D VOYAGE 3566.1 2018 

http://www.deetlefs.com Price: € 13.31 

Deetlefs Wine Estate +27 23 349 1260 


D PINOTAGE 2017 




D PINOTAGE ROSÉ 2022 



PADRE REDNOSE 87/100 

D MERLOT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 

2026. 

Price: € 9.00 

Seven Oaks +27 83 639 0405 

SEVEN OAKS 87/100 

D PINOTAGE ROSÉ 2022 

Price: € 3.50 

Seven Oaks +27 83 639 0405 


D CHARDONNAY 2022 

Price: € 4.00 

Seven Oaks +27 83 639 0405 


D VIOGNIER 2022 

Price: € 12.00 



D DE HAGEVELD 2018 




D CABERNET SAUVIGNON SHIRAZ 2021 

Price: € 4.50 

Seven Oaks +27 83 639 0405 

DU TOITSKLOOF 85/100 




MIJMERE 85/100 

D METHOD CHARMAT 2021 

http://bothakelder.co.za/ Price: € 7.36 

Botha Kelder +27 23 355 1740 

BREEDEKLOOF - SLANGHOEK 

OPSTAL 88/100 

D CARL EVERSON CAPE BLEND 2019 

Price: € 13.15 

Opstal Estate +27 23 344-3001 

ROBERTSON 

DE WETSHOF 92/100 

D BON VALLON 2022: Light straw. Subdued 

nose with hints of tangerine. Citrus follows on 

the steely plate with a well-balanced acidity and 

a flinty note on the aftertaste. Will age well. 

Drink through 2028. 

http://www.dewetshof.com Price: € 3.00 

De Wetshof Estate +27 23 615 1853 

BON COURAGE ESTATE 91/100 

D JACQUES BRUÉRE BRUT RESERVE 2013: 

Yellow straw. Smoky and toasty on the rich nose. 

Palate is lively and refreshing with a tangy lime 

peel note on the aftertaste. Fine mousse and a 

racy acidity that will help this wine to age. Drink 

through 2027. 

Price: € 13.66 

Bon courage Estate +27 23 626 4178 


SOUTH AFRICA - ROBERTSON 


THE PRETTY CELLAR IN BON COURAGE WINERY 

LOZÄRN WINES 91/100 

D CABERNET FRANC 2021: Bright ruby red. 

Orange blossom, tea leaf, wild fig with hints of 

cinnamon, cedar wood and oak nuances. Firm 

grippy tannins to add to midpalate weight 

and length. Drink through to 2025. Excellent 

example of Cabernet Franc. 

Price: € 12.43 

Lozärn Wines +27 82 576 8093 


D FINESSE 2022: Yellow straw. Subdued 

nose with citrus and orange marmelade. Palate is 

creamy and full with a lemon lime note followed 

by stone fruit and quince. A well-integrated and 

layered wine that will age well. Drink through 

2028. 




D LILYA 2022: Pale salmon. Red apple and 

cherry on the rich nose. Strawberry and rose 

petal on the well-integrated, but crisp palate. A 

fine rosé. Drink through 2025. 




D JACQUES BRUÉRE CUVEÉ ROSÉ BRUT 

2013 

Price: € 13.66 







D THE GOOSEBERRY BUSH SAUVIGNON 

BLANC 2022 

Price: € 4.86 



D INKARÁ CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017 

Price: € 13.66 


EXCELSIOR 88/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON MERLOT 2021 

http://www.excelsior.co.za Price: € €2.46 

Excelsior Wine Estate +27 23 615 1980 

LOZÄRN WINES 88/100 

D CARMÉNÈRE 2021 

Price: € 29.32 

Lozärn Wines +27 82 576 8093 

PUREBRED 88/100 

D SHIRAZ MERLOT 2020 




D INKARÁ SHIRAZ 2021 

Price: € 13.66 



D JACQUES BRUÉRE BLANC DE BLANCS 

2012 

Price: € 13.66 


PUREBRED 87/100 




EXCELSIOR 86/100 





129

SOUTH AFRICA - ROBERTSON - AGTERKLIPHOOGTE 


ROBERTSON - 

AGTERKLIPHOOGTE 

WINDFALL 85/100 


https://www.windfallwine.co.za/contact-us/ Price: € 12.00 

Windfall Wine Farm +27 83 320 8473 

WINDFALL 85/100 

D PINOTAGE 2022 

https://www.windfallwine.co.za/contact-us/ Price: € 12.00 

Windfall Wine Farm +27 83 320 8473 

ROBERTSON - BONNIEVALE 

WELTEVREDE 92/100 

D POET’S PRAYER 2021: Yellow straw. 

Citrus and vanilla on the rich nose. Palate is 

complex and layered with marmelade and citrus 

following from the nose. Lengthy and full on the 

finish. Drink through 2028. 

Price: € 25.00 

Weltevrede Estate +27 23 616 2141 


D BRUT THE RING 2013: Yellow straw. Green 

apple and lime on the nose. Crisp acidity and a 

fine mousse on the racy palate with citrus notes 

folling on the aftertaste. Still very youthful. 

Price: € 13.00 



D PLACE OF ROCKS 2021: Yellow straw. 

Rich nose with vanilla and orange peel. Palate 

is full and developed with a creamy texture 

and citrus on the ripe aftertaste. Complex and 

layered. Drink through 2028. 

Price: € 14.00 



D CALCRETE CHARDONNAY 2021 

Price: € 5.00 


WORCESTER - NUY 

NUY 89/100 

D MASTERY CHARDONNAY 2021 

http://www.nuywinery.co.za Price: € 6.78 

Nuy Winery +27 23 347 0272 

NUY 86/100 

D LEGACY ARGILLA 2021 


Nuy Winery +27 23 347 0272 

NUY 85/100 

D LEGACY CALCAREO WOODED CHENIN 

BLANC 2021 


Nuy Winery +27 23 347 0272 

WORCESTER - STETTYN 

STETTYN 90/100 

D GUARDIAN 2020: Dark ruby. White and 

black pepper notes with black berries and earthy 

notes of leather. Equality of fruit ripeness has 

lead to ripe attractive weighted tannins. Will age 

well. 

http://www.stettynwines.co.za Price: € 6.00 

Stettyn Family Vineyards +27 23 340 4220 


D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 




D SHIRAZ 2020 




D MERLOT 2020 



WESTERN CAPE - CAPE 

SOUTH COAST 

ELGIN 

SURVIVOR 89/100 

D TERROIR CHARDONNAY 2021 

http://www.overhex.com 


SURVIVOR 87/100 

D TERROIR SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021 

http://www.overhex.com 


WELTEVREDE OFFERS VARIOUS TASTING EXPERIENCES, SOME UNDERGROUD, SHARING THEIR LOVE FOR CHARDONNAY. 


FIND OUT MORE 

ONLINE 

FULL RESULTS OF THE INTERNATIONAL CHALLENGE 

FREE ACCESS TO REVIEWS OF MORE THAN 27,000 WINES 

DOZENS OF ARTICLES ABOUT WINE REGIONS AROUND THE WORLD 

www.gilbertgaillard.com/en

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