TravelWorld International Magazine Winter 2023

When the sun shines, the beauty of the
Antarctic Peninsula is breathtaking.
POLAR DAY -- NOT THE
SAME AS SUMMER
Both of my trips occurred during
the summer seasons -- or polar
day -- at the top and the bottom
of the Earth. Although the sun
sank to kiss the horizon as we
traveled north, we were still able
to read late into the evening while
sitting on our stateroom balcony.
Weather is milder in Norway due
to the Gulf Stream that hugs the
country's western coastline than
in most other Arctic countries.
Although sweaters and caps
were comfortable attire, hardy
Norwegians could be seen visiting
rocky beaches and swimming in
the still-cold waters.
Who knew there were so
many shades of blue?
The author, Adrienne
Cohen and husband
David, were happy
to have the right
clothes for venturing
onto the open decks
in Antarctica!
Temperatures in Antarctica,
however, were much lower; to be
fair, we visited Antarctica later
in the season. The days were
shorter, the sun seldom shined
bright in the sky, and it did get
dark at night. We only got a peek
at some of the prime attractions.
Deception Island was shrouded in
clouds – we missed it completely --
and Elephant Island was similarly
elusive. Even though our crossing
of the famed Drake Passage was
relatively smooth, and no snow
fell on the ship's decks (Yes, that
happened just three weeks prior
to our sailing!), socks and boots,
caps, gloves, and parkas were
necessary for spending time on
deck.
It’s difficult
to judge of
size and scale
of floating
icebergs. Up to
two-thirds of
the mass can
be below the
water line. The
ice shelf in the
background
might be several
stories high!
An Emperor
Penguin
“poses”
on a beach
near
Stanley
in the
Falkland
Islands,
with the
Sapphire
Princess
at anchor
in the
background.
ABOUT THOSE
SUPERLATIVES!
Both journeys so surpassed
my expectations that I would
be happy to return to either
the Arctic or the Antarctic. I
am convinced each would feel
like a "new world" on each
succeeding encounter. In fact,
that is exactly what Captain
Todd McBain of the Sapphire
Princess gave as his reason
for returning again and again
to Antarctica. He has sailed
aboard every Princess ship to
visit the Antarctic Peninsula
since the line first sailed that
route in 2006, and he is an
ardent Antarctic Ambassador.
In truth, these two journeys
only served to whet my
appetite for travel to the
far reaches of the planet.
I recently had another
opportunity to step across the
Arctic Circle when I traveled
on the Dalton Highway north
from Fairbanks, Alaska. It was
a road trip that brought our
small group of adventurers
only as far north as the
"Welcome to the Arctic " sign
at Latitude 66-34. But I earned
a certificate that attests to
my "survival" on this arduous
journey!
I am now intrigued by other
journeys that will again
bring me closer to the poles
-- perhaps a tour of Greenland
or Iceland, that hoped-for
journey to Svalbard, a cruise to
the "forgotten islands" of the
South Pacific, sub-Antarctic
islands south of Australia and
New Zealand, or even a daylong
tour by helicopter to view
Antarctica from the air.
Travel above the Arctic Circle
has become increasingly
available and affordable,
whether by air, sea, or
highway. The seasonal
changes also offer numerous
options for travelers who want
to experience "the land of the
midnight sun" or, alternately,
the Northern Lights. It's a
matter of picking an itinerary
and the time of year that best
suits you. Options for visiting
the Antarctic are still relatively
limited, typically possible only
from about mid-November
through mid-March. The most
favorable weather is from
December through February.
AN UNCERTAIN FUTURE
FOR A FRAGILE CONTINENT
The International Association of
Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO)
places the number of visitors at just
over 105,000 during the 2022-23
season, which raises some serious
concerns about environmental
effects. In 2000, only about 5,000
people visited. Tourists should be
forewarned that much of Antarctic
travel, especially the flight-seeing
tours and excursions that allow
tourists to visit certain research
stations, is pricey. However, the
price of cruise itineraries from
Australia and New Zealand to
Macquarie Island with its incredible
penguin rookeries, and those that
include New Zealand's Snares,
Auckland, or Campbell Islands,
can be quite attractive if you find
yourself on that side of the world.
Debate continues to swirl around
the growing public appetite for
Antarctic tourism. There is, however,
international cooperation and
a determination to protect the
environment. Regulation falls
under the scope of the International
Association of Antarctica Tour
Operators (IAATO), a voluntary
organization founded in 1991 by
seven private tour operators. It
currently sets industry standards
that protect Antarctica.
As some of the last "wilderness
areas" on the planet, the polar
regions -- Antarctica and the
Arctic countries -- offer aweinspiring
sights and breathtaking
experiences. I consider myself
extremely fortunate to have had
glimpses of that beauty at opposite
ends of the world, and I love sharing
my impressions and my photos.
The blue coloration stems
from the densely-packed ice
that is below the water line,
or sometimes from fissures
that form in the ice.
Even with clouds hovering
above and no sun to speak
of the sights in Antarctic
are mesmerizing!
A penguin chick emerges from its
burrow at about five weeks of age
but is still fed by both parents. It
might make a first trip out to sea
at the age of about eight weeks.
Travel, indeed,
is the greatest
teacher!
32
33