Jeweller – February 2024

Jacqueline
Kennedy
Diana of Wales
Grace Kelly
Ikecho
Angelina Jolie
In the film, Taylor wears a necklace featuring the legendary
La Peregrina pearl, a gemstone with a fascinating history.
The pearl was discovered in the early 1500s in Panama and
was worn by royalty for hundreds of years.
It was placed at auction at Sotheby’s in 1969 and was
purchased by none other than Richard Burton, husband of
Elizabeth Taylor, who starred opposite her in ‘Cleopatra’.
Burton had purchased the pearl as a Valentine’s Day gift.
After Taylor’s death, La Peregrina returned to
auction in 2011. The pearl was expected to return around
$US3 million; however, it generated an unprecedented
$US11.8 million.
Queen of England Anne Boleyn adored pearl jewellery. The
details of her marriage to King Henry VIII are well known,
and while it was a short relationship, her legacy as an
ardent supporter of pearl jewellery lives on.
Boleyn’s royal portrait includes a remarkable 37-inch rope
of large nature pearls, and her gown is decorated with even
more aquatic treasures. Her daughter, Queen Elizabeth I,
reportedly had hundreds of dresses decorated with pearls.
In the television series ‘The Tudors’, actress Natalie
Dormer portrays Anne Boylen in a performance fondly
remembered for the portrayal of the infamous initial ‘B’
pendant hung with three drop-shaped natural pearls
suspended from a natural pearl necklace.
When reflecting on the relationship between power,
influence, and pearl jewellery, it’s impossible to look past
perpetual trend-setter Princess Diana.
In 1997, Princess Diana wore the ‘Swan Lake Suite’ at the
gala opening of the Swan Lake ballet at London’s Royal
Albert Hall, just months before her untimely death in Paris.
Former British Crown Jeweller Garrard created the piece.
The platinum necklace is mounted with brilliant-cut
diamonds in a scroll motif. Five cultured South Sea pearls
and seven marquise diamonds in a fringe drop design are
suspended from the necklace.
Princess Diana’s pearl jewellery was expected to be
auctioned in May and to return around $US15 million;
however, the sale was cancelled after a mystery buyer
purchased the collection.
Princess Diana is far from the only contemporary royal
figure to showcase pearls. Queen Elizabeth II and Princess
Hana Tilksew
Evie Magazine
"As a renowned fail-safe in the
jewellery world, they’re appropriate
for weddings, funerals, and all the
mundane life events in between."
Louisa Chan
Phillips Jewels- Hong Kong
“Since more men are sporting
jewels on the red carpet, pearl
jewels such as chokers and
long necklaces are also coming
back, but for men.”
Claire Hammon
Meadowlark
"Just because something is
classic doesn’t mean it’s old. For
me, they finish an outfit so well.
Pearls with jeans and a T-shirt
– that, to me, is beautiful and
really, really cool."
of Wales Kate Middleton have shared a necklace featuring
four strands of perfectly matched saltwater Akoya pearls
finished with a sparkling diamond-accented centrepiece
doubling as a clasp.
Influencers of today
With this historical perspective in mind, it should come as
no surprise that influential trendsetters have attempted to
replicate the timeless popularity of these figures and their
jewellery by endorsing pearl jewellery.
In fashion, Rihanna is the so-called ‘Queen of Reinvention’,
and the pop musician has long endorsed pearl jewellery.
During Paris Fashion Week in 2022, Rihanna was draped
in a multi-strand choker-style necklace — an archival
Christian Dior piece from John Galliano’s Spring 1997
Haute Couture show.
Rihanna was spotted again in New York the following year
wearing the same Dior choker, this time joined by a multilayered
Briony Raymond estate necklace studded with
pearls, emeralds, diamonds, and rubies.
While these are two recent examples, Rihanna’s love
of pearls is hardly new. While performing at the 2012
Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, the singer wore Chanel
sunglasses framed with pearls and a pearl necklace by
Vivienne Westwood Couture.
While these statement pieces showcased the
‘wow factor’ of pearl jewellery, many other celebrities
have also taken the time to highlight the gemstone's
elegant, understated nature.
Actress Angelia Jolie is well-known for her resistance
to ‘maximalist’ trends, favouring simple staples for a
subtle look.
On a trip to Washington DC in 2021, Jolie wore a strand of
luxurious pearls with matching earrings that appeared to
be a nod to the many influential women in politics who have
favoured pearl jewellery – whether it be Kamala Harris, Jill
Biden, or even Jackie Kennedy.
“Elegant, timeless and surprisingly versatile, pearl earrings
are always a good investment. Whether you’re looking
for traditional jewellery that’ll stand the test of time,
something more modern, or a dramatic look for party
season, this semi-precious stone is the perfect choice,”
writes Rosie Davenport for Harper’s Bazaar.
February 2024 | 49