Detailing Tips & Tricks from the John Bull Garage - Cherod.com

Detailing Tips & Tricks from 

the John Bull Garage 

Hosted by Brad Bloomquist 

Detail@johnbullgarage.com 

And generously sponsored by:

Suggested 

Detailing Regimen 

Wash 

Intensive Detailing: Jambs, underhood, 

emblems, etc. 

Paint: Pre-wax cleaner/polish 

Paint: Sealer/glaze 

Paint: Wax 

Trim 

Apply correct preservative, 

protectant, clean cracks 

Wheels 

Bead to hub, polish wheel & lugs 

Tires 

Full dress, scrub bead to tread 

Glass: Clean 

Polish, clean along seals 

Interior: Vacuum 

Clean stains, vacuum trunk, etc. 

Leather: Condition 

Thoroughly clean leather surface 

and recondition 

Weekly 

Monthly 

Bi-annual 

Every 8-12 weeks 

Every 8-12 weeks 

Weekly 

Monthly 

Bi-weekly 

Every 2-3 months 

Monthly 

Monthly 

Weekly 

Monthly 

Weekly 

Monthly 

Monthly 

Every 2-3 months

The proper appearance care of your vehicle is not rocket science. It is the practical 

application of the right tools with the knowledge of doing the job right. At the John Bull 

Garage we hope to share with you these Tips and Tricks that will make your car Concours 

ready and greatly reduce the effort it takes to keep it looking that way. Distinction is in the 

details and it’s the little details that set your car apart from the rest. 

The Proper Order of things… 

Mothers Polishes is the leader in the detailing industry and advocates a simple seven step 

process to care for your car. 

1. Brush, vacuum and clean the interior 

2. Clean wheels and tires with chemicals 

3. Wash exterior of car 

4. Apply tire dressing 

5. Polish the wheels 

6. Clean and treat exterior trim 

7. Polish and wax paint finish 

At the John Bull garage, we add an eighth and final step we simply call Details. 

Let’s take each of these in order. 

STEP 1: BRUSH, VACUUM AND CLEAN THE INTERIOR 

We assume you know how to vacuum but here are some great Tips & Tricks for 

keeping the interior of your vehicle clean. 

Carpet Care and Interior Odors 

Woolite Heavy Traffic is one of the best household carpet cleaners I’ve found. It is 

especially helpful with the ground in dirt in the heel area of car mats. 

Arm and Hammer Baking Soda will refresh your carpets and remove smells that 

eventually overpower that sweet smell of Connolly leather! Sprinkle liberally in the 

nap and let sit over night. I keep a small open-topped Tupperware container of Arm 

and Hammer in the garage near the car. 

HINT: When I come home with that smelly bag of Chinese take-out, I place the 

Tupperware in the car so the next day the odor is 100% gone and my new-car smell 

is back…and will remain so! 

Baking soda is also a natural acid neutralizer and will stop battery acid spills from 

damaging your car. Wash the battery tray out yearly as a preventative. 

STEP 2: CLEAN WHEELS AND TIRES WITH CHEMICALS 

The wheels on most cars are painted and clear coated with the same materials used 

to finish the body of your car. They are, however, subjected to a great deal more 

abuse than the average paint job. Heated brake dust brakes into the finish, acid rain, 

Tips & Tricks from the John Bull Garage May 2005 Distinction in the Details

oad debris and corrosion all take its toll. Special care is needed to remove these 

contaminants without damaging the finish 

The ideal situation would be to wash your wheels in a car wash shampoo similar to 

one that you would choose for your painted finish on your auto body. Often, on 

wheels that are cleaned weekly or more often, this will suffice. But if your wheels are 

very dirty to start, or your brake pads put out copious amounts of black brake dust, 

then you will need to use a stronger cleaner made specifically to cut through the 

grime of brake dust and road debris. There are two groups of cleaners: 

Acid Based Wheel Cleaners 

Acid based cleaners are the fastest acting and strongest cleaners. These take the 

least effort. The problem with these cleaners is that some are too strong and the 

acid can etch the surface of the wheel if it is allowed to set on the surface too long or 

allowed to dry. Care must also be taken to be sure acid does not get into chips or 

cracks in the surface of the clear coat of the wheel. This will cause eventual 

discoloration or peeling. Always use on a pre-wetted wheel. I prefer agitation to just 

“soaking and setting”. Rinse, rinse, rinse! 

Acid-Free Cleaners 

Alkaline-based cleaners are “generally” safer but don’t clean as well. They work 

best by loosening the brake dust and dirt with the aid of some surface agitation. 

Non-acidic formulas are usually solvents such as ethylene glycol which are not 

really friendly either. The same rules apply….use on a pre-wetted wheel, don’t let 

set long and rinse well. 

Detergents 

Finally, detergent cleaners require the most effort but are the safest to use. They are 

hard on rubber, though, so be sure to apply a tire protectant afterwards. 

Wheel Cleaners and Tools 

Most consumer level wheel cleaners are acid based. These are usually 2% 

solutions of oxalic, phosphoric and hydrochloric acid. These get a bad rap because 

they “can” do harm if used improperly. And some brands are WAY too harsh. Acid 

cleaners are not necessarily a bad thing, they work well, you just have to use 

them properly. Eagle One A to Z, Mothers Wheel Mist, and Meguiars Mirror Glaze 

are the best common store brands and ones you can you can trust. 

Acid-Free, or Alkaline based cleaners are another type These are usually weak 

solutions of ethylene glycol with a wetting agent. Simply agitate the surface and let 

the cleaner float the dirt away. These, too can be harsh so you need to be cautious. 

Eimann Hi-Intensity Cleaner and 303 Aerospace Cleaner are excellent Alkaline 

cleaners. 

Detergent cleaners are the safest but require the most agitation if the brake dust is 

baked on. P21S (gel and liquid) is a nearly neutral PH and one of the safest on the 

market. And one of the priciest. It’s gentle and requires a bit of agitation, you won’t 

harm your wheels. 

Always use the least harsh product that does the job. Auto Shampoos are great 

gentle cleaners, mostly alkaline or ph balanced in content and will not harm wheels 


or paint. If you are smart, you will keep your wheels pretty clean to begin with and 

use the leftover shampoo in your wash bucket to do your wheels. Works for me! 

Always spray the wheel with water before you spray on cleaner. Never spray 

cleaner on hot wheels. Very bad! Don’t forget to spray a stream of water into the 

brake caliper itself to remove excess brake dust. Buy small inexpensive sponges for 

cleaning the outside of the wheels and tires. Use a foam-ended bottle brush to 

reach to the inside of the wheel. 

Wax your wheels! Waxing the insides of the wheels with a synthetic or polymer 

wax repels brake dust and makes cleaning much easier. It also fills the pores and 

does not allow the dust a place to stick and settle. Do this twice a year for daily 

drivers. 

Tip: Once wheels are clean, a simple solution of 3 parts water to 1 part car shampoo 

in a spray bottle is all that’s needed to wash them. Simply spray on and agitate with a 

brake dust or foam brush. Simple, easy, and inexpensive. 

IMPORTANT 

A quick note about polished and anodized and aluminum wheels that have no clear 

coat on them: these are beautiful but very high maintenance. Both acid and highly 

alkaline cleaners can easily dull them; the best solution on these wheels is a Ph 

balanced auto shampoo. Wash them often so the brake dust does not build up, wax 

the wheels do aid cleaning and dry to avoid spotting. There is a price to pay for things 

of beauty! 

The Washing Process 

1. Never wash hot wheels. Rapid evaporation of water can cause spots 

and chemical burns. 

2. Thoroughly wet down the wheels inside and out first before applying any 

cleaner. 

3. Spray two or three squirts of cleaner on the inside of the wheel so it can 

start working. 

4. Spray three squirts around the outside of the tire and rub with a soft 

sponge or tire brush. 

5. Spray one squirt on a soft sponge and wipe the outside of the wheel. 

6. Spray one squirt on foam bottlebrush and wipe inside of wheel. 

7. After the wheel is done use bottlebrush and wipe all reachable areas of 

the wheel well liner in front of and behind the wheel. 

8. Don’t forget to wipe the brake caliper. 

9. Rinse very well with strong shot of water from all angles. It is very 

important to clean all traces of the cleaner off the wheel. 

10. The whole process should take no more than 3 minutes per wheel. Do 

one wheel at a time. Don’t let wheels soak in cleaner. 

Tip: At least twice a year I remove my wheels and wax the insides of my wheels 

with a polymer sealant wax. This dramatically aids in the reduction of brake dust and 

dirt that sticks to the inside of my wheels! I wax the outside surface of my wheels 

every time I wax my car. Klasse-All-In-One is a great heat resistant sealant for this 

purpose 


STEP 3: WASH THE EXTERIOR OF YOUR CAR 

Washing and drying isn’t as easy as you think! 

The biggest most obvious improvement you can make in your car 

is to simply wash and dry it. Sounds simple doesn’t it? 

Unfortunately with the exception of complete neglect, this is 

where people often do the most harm to their own cars finish. 

Most of the scratches and dreaded “swirls” on peoples paint finish 

is from washing with improper tools. The wrong type of tools, 

improper techniques and poor quality shampoos and additives 

can lead to disaster for your paint finish. 

Shampoos 

A high quality automotive shampoo adds lubrication in the form of surface conditioners and 

natural oils that helps prevent scratching when you wipe the surface. Sand and abrasive grit 

slide off in the rinse water without hurting the surface. These shampoos cost a little more but 

are worth it if you own a dark color car. 

Zaino Z7 Shampoo, P21S, Mequiars Gold Class, Mothers California Gold and NXT are 

among my favorites. Follow the directions on the bottle for the proper mix ratio. Using too 

much soap is wasteful and may leave a slight soap residue on the surface. NOTE: Use a 

shampoo that compliments your wax. Too strong a shampoo can remove some carnaubas. 

And some shampoos can cause streaking with some waxes, so if your getting strange 

results, switch brands. 

Mitts 

There are several types of mitts on the market. The key is to use something that 

holds plenty of water, has soft loose fibers and will allow debris and dirt to flush 

through it freely. Also, the more soap it holds, the better lubrication it allows. I prefer 

100% Cotton Chenille mitts. Microfiber wash mitts are also quite nice. Other 

alternatives on the market are Sheepskin wash mitts and natural Sea Sponge mitts. 

As with all products, cheap imitations abound and you need to shop carefully! Cotton 

mitts that aren’t 100% cotton but are in fact polyester are not 

very plush and can scratch. Cheap sheepskin wash mitts leave 

swirl marks. Poor quality sponges are hard and leave mars on 

paint. Always buy from a reputable source. And remember you 

get what you pay for! 

Drying Tools 

Before we go over all the great new drying tools out there, lets 

go over some of the old favorites that you need to “retire”! 

Natural Chamois 

Your dad had one of these didn’t he? Well it’s time to send these things the way of 

the “coon skin” cap. Natural chamois have no way of absorbing surface debris and 

pulling it away from the finish. They are famous for creating swirls on the finish and 

abrading wax off the finish. These are really rough on the paint. Say goodbye! 


Diapers 

If you look at a cross section of a diaper it is a very flat surface with a very unidirectional, 

dense weave. It is meant to absorb water and spread it wide so it dries. 

The problem is, when a bit of debris gets into a diaper it lays right on top of the 

weave. It has no place to go. When you rub the diaper the debris can scratch and 

re-scratch the surface of the paint over and over. Not worth the risk on your paint 

finish. 

Synthetic Chamois 

This is a high tech version of the natural chamois. The synthetic chamois is 

extremely compact and is stored in a plastic tube to keep it moist at all times. It can 

absorb many times it’s own weight in water. 

The best way to use these is not to drag them across the surface like a towel, 

but simply to lay it on the surface for a few seconds, let it absorb, pick it up and 

move to another location. I follow up to remove the remaining residue with a 

microfiber or cotton towel. 

I find the synthetic chamois particularly convenient to have on hand in the trunk 

of my car. An example would be the Absorber, Water Sprite and Water 

Bandit. I give these the thumbs up as a “compliment” to waffleweave drying 

towels. (not a replacement) 

Water Blades 

In a hurry? California Water Blade makes a product that can safely remove over 

80% of the water from your car in just a few seconds. It really works! Just be sure 

the car and the blade is clean, clean, clean! Follow up any remaining residue with a 

100% cotton or microfiber waffleweave towel. 

Bath Towels 

Polyester is your enemy in all forms of a bath towel. The threads are thick, hard and 

will scratch. Also avoid all forms of decorative embroidery, embossing and appliqués 

since they will scratch. If you choose to use a bath towel you must choose a 100% 

cotton bath towel. Research has shown that 100% Cotton Canon Fieldcrest, made 

in the USA towels are the softest. 

Waffleweave Microfiber Drying Towels 

This microfiber technology is relatively new to the market and will not 

scratch like even the best cotton towel can! For much more info on 

this subject check out this Internet article: http://autopiacarcare.com/inf-microfiber.html 

They are incredibly absorbent! One large towel can soak up twice that 

of a comparable cotton towel. Waffle weaves are my absolute 

favorite! I have retired all my other towels now. One you try these you will never 

use anything else again. 

Tip: Timesaver, Learn to “sheet” the water over the car just before you are ready to 

dry. A gentle stream will chase the “beads” away leave the surface almost water free 

leaving you with very little left to actually dry and with less chance of spotting. 


Tip: Wash your car in the shade if possible. A cool finish allows the water to dry 

more slowly and leaves less water spotting. Always keep the car wetted 

down until you are ready to wipe dry. Never let the car dry naturally this will 

surely cause spotting. 

Bug and Stain Removal 

For bug and stain removal you may need a stronger cleaner than the 

regular shampoo can provide. These cleaners contain cleaners that quickly 

dissolve the extremely acidic body fluids of bugs before they can 

permanently etch the top surface of your p aint. Avoid the temptation to 

scrub off bugs with coarse brushes and sponges. This will scratch your paint finish. 

Porsche Tequipment, Stoners Xenit and Tarminator and 303 Aerospace 

Cleaner are three of my favorites. At the very least, keep a Quick Detailer in your car 

and attack those bug guts before they have a chance to harden and stain. 

Car Washing Tips 

Use two mitts for car washing. Use one mitt for the top surfaces and one for the 

lower panels. Keep them separate. The lower panels are more likely to hold 

scratch-making debris. Don’t take a chance scratching the more visible top surfaces. 

A car wash shampoo is helpful in loosening dirt from the pores in the paint surface. 

The lubrication will reduce the possibility of scratching. Use shampoo every time you 

wash! 

Do not use inexpensive sponges to wash the paint. They hold debris and can 

scratch easily. 

Install plastic or rubber ends to your hose and avoid any costly scratches. 

*Position the hose so running water is flowing directly in front of your mitt 

flushing dirt away from the mitt. 

When using buckets, be sure you RINSE your mitt before dipping back into the 

shampoo bucet. Use running water or a second rinse bucket. 

Hint: Follow up each washing session with an application of quick detailer and a 

buff with a microfiber towel! This will rejuvenate your wax and add pop to the shine! 

STEP 4: APPLY TIRE DRESSING 

Tire Dressings 

It is important to clean you tires prior to applying any dressing. Dressing build 

combined with the off-gassing of solvents from within your tire rubber is what causes 

the brown cloudy look on the surface of the tire. 

Silicone 

There is a lot of misinformation about silicone. Liquid silicone has one major 

advantage in that it can prevent penetration of moisture and dirt. It also leaves a 

highly glossy film. Silicone itself is an inert material, however, many silicone 

dressings contain petroleum distillates that act as cleaning agents. That is where the 

problem lies and where silicone gets its bad rep. The petroleum distillates are very 


harmful causing vinyl and rubber to dry and crack from the inside out. Avoid 

dressings that advertise shining AND cleaning properties. These types are likely to 

contain petroleum distillate cleaners. 

Water Based Dressings 

Water based dressings don’t contain silicone oils, petroleum distillates or solvents. 

These are much safer to use on vinyl and rubber both on your tires and interior. 

Water based dressings also tend to have a less shiny “fake” appearance. Most 

also contain UV inhibitors and are biodegradable. 

My absolute favorite interior dressing is 303 Aerospace Protectant. It provides the 

most UV protection on the market and offers a factory-looking satin shine. Zaino Z16 

dressing offers medium/low gloss look I prefer. 

Tip: Eagle One Foam tire swipes application are perfect for applying tire dressings. 

Tire Dressings - Some Silicone Facts: 

Penetrating type silicones form a protective layer on rubber. Liquid silicone seals 

small openings in rubber with a film to stop penetration of moisture and dirt. Most 

dressings leave a never-dry gloss film. There are many myths regarding silicone, 

specifically the negative long-term effects of silicone on rubber and vinyl. The fact is, 

silicone is an inert material. The benefit of silicone is its ability to easily penetrate the 

tires surface and not evaporate. Some silicone-based dressings contain petroleum 

distillates as a cleaning agent these are harmful to rubber and vinyl and will cause it 

to dry and crack. If you decide to use a silicone dressing be sure it does not contain 

a cleaner. The only true negative property of silicone is the difficulty of adding UV 

protection. 

There are dozens of tire dressings on the market. Most use silicones that contain 

petroleum distillates that are harmful to the rubber in the tires. Avoid them. The best 

tire dressings (and vinyl protectants) are water-based. 

Rubber and Vinyl Protectants 

It’s important to keep rubber and vinyl hydrated and protected from UV degradation. 

NOTE: Many manufacturers put concentrated silicone in the solution to add to the 

shine. Many silicones contain cleaners, which are solvents. This is very bad for the 

rubber/vinyl and should be avoided. These dehydrate the rubber and cause cracking. 

(Michelin Tire Company recently issued a bulletin internally that it may soon void 

warranty claims of tire damage should they find that silicone was used as a dressing. 

That should be a hint to stay away from the stuff!) 

Water based products are better/safer and offer a more natural shine. (I hate 

that used car lot look!) They often include UV enhancers and are biodegradable, 

also. 

Tire Dressing Application tips: 

Apply dressing to clean tires. Wash your tires 4-5 times a season with a bucket of 

water and Dawn dishwashing liquid. Dawn has a high alkaline make-up which will 

cut through old dirt, rubber gassing (that brown film on sidewalls), and silicone oils. 


*Spray the protectant on an applicator or sponge and then wipe on the tire. 

*For a glossier shine let soak in and dry. 

*For a satin shine buff off excess immediately. 

Eagle One curved sponge applicators are the best. They fit the contour of the 

tires and waste little dressing. 

Concours hint: Please, PLEASE, don’t use unnatural, overly shiny, tire dressings. 

Unless, of course, you got your car from “Lenny’s Used Car Corral”. 

STEP 5: POLISH THE WHEELS 

You’ve dried the paint on the car…why not the wheels. At John Bull Garage we 

recommend using a dedicated microfiber towel (preferably a high quality waffle 

weave) to dry the wheels and remove any tire dressing overspray. If you have clearcoated 

wheels, now is a great time to go over the wheels with some Quick Detailer to 

polish the shine and lay on a protective barrier. 

ADD MOTHERS INFO HERE… 

STEP 6: CLEAN AND TREAT EXTERIOR TRIM 

Pay special attention to the trim moldings, rubber, vinyl, plastic and glass on 

the exterior of your car. 

For bright metal surfaces, I recommend Semichrome, Wenol or Blue Magic to add 

depth and shine. Never Dull is the best polish I have found for chrome, aluminum, 

and stainless steel. 

Black body and trim moldings should be dark, crisp, and clean. 

If the moldings are in good condition, use a dressing that gives 

a factory appearance such as Mothers Protectant or 

Meguiar's #40. Meguiar's #40 has cleaners to dissolve wax 

residues and grime. If the moldings are sun-faded, abused or 

neglected, use Mothers Back-To-Black to restore the trim's 

black color. 

Soft Top Care—More to it than you think! 

We tend to ignore the roadster tops on our convertibles for a few of reasons. First, if 

they are vinyl, they are pretty durable so we tend to think they need no maintenance 

and if they are black, we rarely see any dirt on them so we ignore them, and finally, if 

they don’t leak, then why bother with them at all! Well, you are wrong on all counts! 

Vinyl roadster tops, even if maintained with a vinyl dressing on the surface, need to 

be cleaned and sealed in the seams periodically or the threads will deteriorate and 

become mis-shapen leading to non uniform shrinkage. 


Cloth/canvas tops require more maintenance to remain water resistant and to keep 

dirt and fallout from staining. Here are some chemicals you should not use on or 

near your top: 

1. Ammonia 

2. Alcohol 

3. Harsh detergents 

4. Vinegar 

5. Bleach 

Detergents, bleach and harsh acids will quickly deteriorate the canvas, 

whereas ammonia and alcohol will dry and cloud the vinyl. 

Cleaning 

Dust gets in the seams of the top and acts like an abrasive in the weave. 

Be sure you wash the top each time you wash your car to rinse away 

this dust. 

If your top is not dirty, rinse it thoroughly with plenty of cool water. Make sure the 

shampoo you use does not contain gloss-enhancing oils. These will cause it to 

collect dust and dirt. I recommend Porsche Tequipment Convertible Top 

Shampoo. 

A great tool for washing is a tight-cell sponge. Do not use a cloth, chenille covered 

sponge, or lambs wool mitt -they will leave lint. If your top has stains, or bird 

droppings, use a small, stiff, natural fiber brush. If you can rub the brush across the 

back of your hand without scratching your skin, it’s safe to use on your canvas top. 

Do not use a scrub brush on the vinyl window. It will scratch. Make sure you rinse 

the top thoroughly with a stiff stream of water to remove all of the shampoo and 

dirt. 

Dry your canvas top and vinyl window using a synthetic chamois or microfiber 

towel. Get the chamois wet and wring it out. Fold it into a square. Start in the 

middle of the top and pull the chamois toward you across the canvas. Do not try to 

wipe the chamois back and forth. It won’t work. Use the synthetic chamois to dry 

the vinyl window, too. You may find it works best if the chamois has just a little 

water in it (don’t wring it out all the way). Do not use a terrycloth towel or diaper to 

dry your top. They will leave lint. 

Stains 

The trick with stains is to use a non-acidic cleaner. My favorite is Porsche’s brand 

cleaner, or Sonax convertible top cleaner. It works very well, has never let me 

down, yet will not damage the top. Raggtop is also a great cleaner and protectant. 

The key is to let the cleaner penetrate the fibers, loosen the stain and debris and let 

it lift. DO NOT scrub the stain. You will damage the top. After it has soaked for 3-5 

minutes, rinse with clean water and wash the car as normal. I like to re-apply water 

proofing to that area afterwards. 

Windows 

If your car is new, no doubt you have experienced the frustration of polyvinyl fog. 

Polyvinyl fog is created by the evaporation of plasticizers (an oily hydrocarbon) and 


other oils. Plasticizers are used in the manufacturing of vinyl to keep it flexible. They 

are also used in many car care conditioners to rejuvenate vinyl and plastic. 

Plasticizers remain liquid, and evaporate with the heat of the sun. This off gassing is 

worse with new cars, and gradually decreases to a manageable level. Severe off 

gassing can also be caused by using too much dressing on your dashboard. 

The best tools to clean your vinyl window are the synthetic chamois or microfiber 

towels made for glass specifically. Do not use a paper towel, as any paper product 

will scratch the vinyl. It is best to detail the window (inside and out) after washing the 

car. 

One of the worst enemies of your convertible window is the top itself. 

When lowered, your vinyl window is in contact with itself. As you drive, 

road vibrations cause the top to rub on itself. Over time, this will begin to 

leave scratches and other marks on the window. To prevent this, you can 

use a small piece of fleece of soft cotton (not terrycloth) to protect the 

window. As you lower your top, after smoothing the wrinkles, lay the fleece 

across the window. 

To help eliminate mars that do happen, use a quality plastic polish and rub in a back 

and forth motion with a foam-only applicator. Check out a more comprehensive list 

of my favorite listed later on in this article. Plexus plastic cleaner is my favorite 

weekly maintenance polish to keep vinyl windows sparkling clean and add a 

protective coating. Plexus comes in an aerosol and is very quick and easy to 

use. (It’s not an effective scratch “remover”, however) 

Waterproofing 

The soft top is not waterproof it is merely water resistant. To make it 

waterproof and stain resistant, it is necessary to treat it with a UV stabilized 

waterproofing product which contains no silicones. I recommend Porsche 

Tequipment Convertible Top Conditioner or RaggTop protectant. While 

other products will work, these products are my favorites. 

STEP 7: POLISH AND WAX PAINT FINISH 

Make that paint finish smooth as glass! 

Paint Contamination 

We spend a lot of time discussing how to remove physical damage inflicted on our 

paint surfaces like scratches and swirls. These are best removed by careful 

application processes involving abrasives or temporarily disguised with glazes and 

fillers. 

Paint contamination is another problem. Contamination is more than just dirt that 

can be washed off. Contamination consists of tiny bits of metal shavings from rail 

dust, brake dust and hardened debris from industrial fall out. Contamination such as 

this will affect all paint finishes. This is what you feel as a “rough or gritty “ texture on 

your paint surfaces. 


Rail dust 

The friction of a railroad cars wheels over the tracks emits metal dust, which covers 

the new cars they carry. The vast majority of new cars are shipped this way so even 

a brand new car can have contaminates in its finish. Any vehicle in or around a 

railroad can be affected. 

Brake Dust 

The dust produced from the fiction of the pads against the rotors contain tiny metal 

particles that collect on the paint surface. 

Fallout 

Pollution, a sign of hour times, is a problem of city living and can be detected in our 

paint. Paint over spray, tree sap, acid rain and water spots can often be routinely 

removed with clays. No matter what advertising you see or read, there is no wax or 

chemical treatment that is impervious to this type of contamination. 

Clay 

The best way to pull out embedded contaminants and over spray out of your paint 

is with clay. 

Claying is just like it sounds. A small, moldable, synthetic bar of clay is lubricated 

with quick detailer and rubbed in a back and forth motion directly on the paint 

surface. 

As the clay glides over the surface it sucks and pulls debris that is literally stuck into 

and adhered to your paint. Even abrasives sometimes have little effect on embedded 

debris. It is amazing the difference that claying can make to the surface. Try it! 

Claying is also an excellent way to clean fallout and contamination out of your 

windshield. It will cure many a squeaky wiper and poor wet see-through. Audi 

recommends this procedure twice yearly as a safety precaution. 

A clay bar will work in a couple different ways to rid your finish of the contamination 

“grit”. The softer formulated clays will tend to glide over the surface and “pull” the 

contamination out of the surface. Softer clays work slower and can sometimes 

leave more residue. Harder formulated clays will tend to “sheer” off the 

contamination at the surface. These clays work faster and leave little or no residue. 

How to use Clay 

Clay is rubbed over the surface of the paint with the aid of a lubricant. The lube can 

be a quick detailer spray or an automotive shampoo. 

1. Be sure the area to be clayed is freshly washed. 

Lubricate the area with quick detailer or auto shampoo. 

2. Cut the clay bar into several small pieces approximately 

3/16 thick. Knead these tiny “bars” into thin wafers about 

1/16” thick. This will give you a very small piece that will 

fit into the cup of your hand. This is your working piece. 

3. Wet this in your soapy lube solution and rub back and 

forth in a methodical linear pattern on your paint surface. 


Two to three strokes over the surface are all you need. Just let the clay glide with 

minimal hand pressure. 

4. Keep looking at your clay for obvious signs of dirt or contamination. When it gets 

really dirty flip it over and continue. When the second side gets contaminated, 

discard the piece. Contrary to popular trends, avoid the temptation to refold and 

reuse dirty clay. Often debris can resurface and scratch your paint. It’s not with 

the risk! 

5. Claying is very easy. You should be able to get a car done in 30 minutes or less. 

You will be amazed at what a difference it will make in the feel of your 

finish. It will feel like glass! 

There are several great clays on the market. The newer generation of 

“poly” clays will last forever, will not dry out, will leave virtually no 

residue and leave a fantastic finish. Zaino, Pinnacle, Mothers and 

Clay Magic are among my favorites. The only clay I strongly DISLIKE 

is Meguiars Clay. It’s too soft and leaves far too much residue. Avoid 

it. 

#1 Myth: 

100% Carnauba waxes? 

No waxes are 100% carnauba. They may contain 100% carnauba but only in small 

amounts and it has to be reduced with solvents. Pure carnauba is darker than honey 

in color (hence the warm, deep shine) and harder than cold candle wax. It is sold by 

the cake (block) to manufacturers. Isn’t marketing great! 

Polymers such as Klasse and Meguiars #20, and Zaino can protect the finish for 

several months. Many new “pseudo” polymers have come onto the market with great 

expectations but have exhibited less than stellar performance. Meguiars NXT, 

Blackfire, Four Star, Platinum, and quite a few others. 

Most Carnaubas begin to lose their effectiveness in 15-20 days. The majority of 

waxes sold are hybrids of all three. The quantity and type of oils and silicones in waxes 

and sealants determine the amount of shine and the durability of the product. Not all 

of these are desirable. 

Most sealants can be topped by carnauba waxes for special combinations of shine and 

durability. 

Waxes and Sealants 

Most consumer-oriented waxes are “do-it-all” waxes. These waxes make claims to 

clean, polish, remove scratches, protect and shine. It’s true, they do it all… very 

poorly. Avoid them. 

Best results require proper paint prep! Prepping the surface properly involves several 

specialized products that do their individual job much better than all-in-ones. 

Paint cleansers, Compounds, Swirl removers and Glazes, are other products are 

used to prep the surface for a true show-car look. 


Choosing a wax or sealant is very personal and depends upon your goals, 

expectations and amount of time you wish to invest. 

In general, sealants offer far more durability than carnauba-based waxes. They last 

longer and are more resistant to surface swirls. Many carnaubas obtain a “deeper” 

shine but don’t last long. 

Quick Detailers 

Every time you wash your car and as time goes by, you degrade 

the topcoat of wax or sealant protection just a little bit. To 

refresh that slick feeling and add back just a little bit of 

protection you should Quick Detail. There are many good Quick 

Detailers on the market and it’s important to choose one to 

compliment your wax. QD’s fall into two main categories: those 

that have trace carnaubas in them and those that are polymer 

based. The same goes for your wax so match the systems for 

best performance. 

Here is how to avoid causing your own scratches…. 

Always use your QD with a microfiber towel. Spritz, wipe in one direction, lift the dust, 

peeling the towel back as you go, flip the towel, spritz again, wipe the QD into the 

surface, buff off with dry towel. 

Quick detailers are spray “waxes” suspended in quick evaporating carriers. They are 

very lubricating therefore safe to use to wipe off dust and light dirt between washes 

and without water. 

They are not meant as a replacement for wax but do give the surface an added boost 

of shine between wax jobs. 

Not only do they add shine to the surface they also can add additional protection from 

the elements. Some quick detailers contain traces of carnauba that can rejuvenate the 

surface wax. 

QD is safe to use on all paints and chrome. 

Quick detailer is applied by spraying on and wiping off immediately. It is 

best applied/removed with a microfiber towel. 

Quick detailers are a show-car owners dream! 

Get some! 

Paint Cleansers, Glazes and Compounds 

Prep work is everything. Do not waste valuable time or quality car care products over 

a contaminated, oxidized swirled or rough finish. Even a brand new car will benefit 

from proper paint prep. Most cars are transported by railcar and rail dust (fine metallic 

particles caused by train wheels on the train tracks) gets embedded in the paint. 

Dawn Dishwashing Liquid is an excellent way to remove old wax and dirt prior to 

final waxing or prepping. It is safe alkaline base and will not harm the paint. 


Paint Cleansers are made from very fine solvents and light abrasives, which remove 

dirt, old wax and can help remove very mild swirls. 

Glazes are coatings that contain fillers which help hide swirls and light scratches. 

Most glazes are a temporary fix. The fillers contain oil, which migrate and dissipate. 

Compounds are abrasives, which remove swirls and light scratches by flattening the 

surrounding paint. These products are the only permanent fix for many types of paint 

damage but must be used carefully since they are removing micro-thin layers of 

paint/clearcoat. 

You must apply sealant or wax over all of these. 

Electric Buffers 

Orbital Buffers Orbital buffers are great time savers and helpful applying polishes 

and compounds. They are very safe to use even for a beginner. Prices start at 

$100-$120 for better quality models. 

Rotary Buffers spin faster and build more heat. In untrained hands they can easily 

cause gouges or scratching but in the hands of an accomplished user they can 

perform miracles on a paint job by removing oxidation, scratching, dull paint, etc. 

Better models start at $150. 

Using a Dual Action (DA) Buffer 

The use of the Dual Action polisher in combination with the proper foam pad has 

been a revolution in the DIY detailing market. No longer must one fear of “burning” 

their paint or ruining the finish of their vehicle through the improper use of a 

traditional rotary device. Although not totally foolproof, the DA buffers have removed 

a significant level of the difficulty involved. 

The key to proper buffer usage, just like everything else in life, is to match the right 

tools(s) for the right job. The first step is to determine just exactly what your goal is. 

Are you trying to eliminate scratches or swirl marks? Just polishing the paint or 

adding a glaze? Or are you trying to do some more serious repair work like remove 

oxidation or orange peel. And yes, while the DA buffer has been a huge boon for 

DIY’ers, it cannot fix every problem. Serious paint restoration work will require a 

traditional rotary machine with a very aggressive pad and compound. 

Here are some key Tips to keep in mind when using your DA. 

1. Season" pad with a mist of water from a spray bottle. This prevents buffing 

with a dry pad on a surface and greatly reduces pad "Skipping". 

2. DO NOT mix pads with polishes. Use a clean pad per product. This prevents 

contamination of pad so best results are acquired. 

3. Move buffer back and forth, up or down. Do not steady machine in 1 area. 

This creates massive heat and could ruin finish. 

4. Be careful of body lines. Moving buffer to slow over body lines could remove 

clear, paint. 

5. Always start buffer on surface. Do not start in air, then place on vehicle. This 

can turn buffer into grinder. 

6. "Reseason" pad with water mist if pad dries or skips. 


7. Match pad with product being applied. i.e. polishing pad-polish, cutting padrubbing 

compound, glazing pad-sealant, glaze or wax. 

8. Clean out pads with cleaning solution after use. i.e. Simple Green, Vinegar, 

Snappy Clean. Soak them in a bucket of warm water and "knead" pads with 

fingers to remove left over product. 

9. Store pads in plastic bags (Ziploc) to keep clean and fresh for next use. 

Always remember as well to start with the least aggressive solution and work your 

way up the aggression ladder until your problem has been eliminated. 

Most of all, have fun and learn how to really make your paint shine. 

STEP 8: DETAILS, DETAILS, DETAILS 

This final step in the detailing process will truly let your car stand out from the pack. 

Remember: Distinction is in the Details. 

Brake Caliper Painting 

Most of you have seen Porsches with the bright red brakes or the custom cars with 

the tricked out painted calipers. Well, it’s more than just a “cool factor”. It’s a real 

maintenance saver! 

If your calipers show through your wheels consider painting them. Painting your 

calipers will make them much easier to clean. The smooth slick surface will not allow 

brake dust to stick as easily to the metal surface of the caliper, and will clean off with 

a burst of water. They don’t have to be a bright color. Choose the factory silver or 

black if you like. It’s easy to do. Brake caliper paint suitable for street use starts 

around $7 for an aerosol can. DupliColor is the best! Higher temperature racing 

application can run around $50 for a two part brush on application. 

Headlight and Tailight Lenses—Give them extra sparkle! 

All taillight lenses and many headlight lenses are plastic or plexiglass and it is 

amazing how much they can be improved by polishing to remove light scratches and 

abrasions that have built up over the seasons. 

Use a mild swirl remover like 3M Finesse It II, 3M Swirl Mark 

Remover or Meguiars Scratch X and follow the directions as it 

you were removing a scratch on paint. The results are amazing! 

Remove the Residues 

Use a soft detail brush sprayed with your favorite Quick 

Detailer to remove wax residues from emblems, logos, panel 

breaks and crevices. Pay particular attention to panel 

seams. 

Blacken up the Wheel Wells and undercarriage 

I always scrub my wheel well liner with my foam bottlebrush 

when I clean each wheel. When they have finally dried I 

give them a quick spray with Stoners Trim Shine or More Shine Less Time. 


Trim Shine is an aerosol one-touch product that makes the black plastic wheel liners 

really look “black” and detailed. It hides all the dirt and makes them look like the car 

is showroom new. It’s the best 10 seconds you’ll ever spend! 

Another great wheel well and chassis product is Griots Undercarriage Spray. It 

easily disguises the dirt you can’t reach or clean in the chassis or engine 

compartment or wheel wells. I call it Concours magic juice! 

PRODUCTS & TOOLS 

Most people inflict far more damage on their cars themselves over time than any other 

factor. Towels and applicators are the #1 culprit 

Applicators 

Use foam applicators! Pure foam applicators are far superior to rags, sponges 

and terry-covered sponges for applying wax or compounds. They provide a 

smoother more consistent feed of the wax/compound and help avoid hot spots/finger 

marks due to their density. 

Towels 

Use Microfiber Towels! Microfiber towels have an extremely high tread count 

(TPI), a plush loop and are resilient to crushing. The huge number 

or resilient loops are so dense that they make it easier to apply a 

consistent pressure on the surface. This avoids hot spots, finger 

marks and scratches. The loops grab dirt and pull it into the towel 

and away from the surface to avoid scratching. They can be 

machine washed frequently and last for years. Lately many cheap 

brands have hit the market. They are not created equal in quality. 

Do your research. Avoid the K-Mart specials. They are really cheap 

and can scratch due to poorer weave techniques, thread quality 

and tpi. Check out this Internet article for more info on microfibers: 

http://autopia-carcare.com/inf-microfiber.html 

Waffleweave Towels! This is a relatively new product from and is 

a huge advantage over classic bath or terry towels for drying your 

car after washing. It’s a waffle textured, lightweight microfiber 

towel that soaks up huge amounts of water yet wrings virtually all of 

it away quickly. The best part is it will not scratch your finish or 

cause swirls that so often are caused by terry towels. Get a 

couple! 

Cotton: Only use 100% cotton towels. The best are Canon Fieldcrest made 

in the USA. Be sure the loops are woven in a dense, even pattern with no 3dimensional 

patterns or weave. White is the softest. Wash often and tumble 

dry. Use them for drying. Old beach towels are very good. 

Throw the old diapers away! Bad! Very bad! 

Drying Tools 

Synthetic Chamois: These are the newer high-tech version of the traditional 

sheepskin chamois. They absorb more water much faster than natural chamois and 


are stored damp in their own carry case. The best brand is Wizards Water Bandit. 

The Absorber and P21S towel are also good brands. 

The trick to using chamois’ is to lay them on the surface of the car, let it absorb for a 

couple seconds and then lift off and move to another area. Resist the temptation 

to drag it across the surface. Pat dry any leftover water drops with a microfiber 

waffleweave or cotton towel. 

Natural chamois: There is virtually no reason to use a natural chamois any more. 

They are harder to maintain, more prone to scratching and leave a residue on the 

surface. Toss ‘em! 

California Water Blade: this controversial tool is essentially a high-tech medical 

grade silicone squeegee for removing large amounts of water off your car very 

quickly. They work! I have never experienced any scratching with this tool but many 

people are afraid to use them. Finish up with a microfiber waffleweave or cotton 

towel. 

Cool Tools 

The California Duster has two different sizes: Large for the outside and small for 

the inside. They really work well. Be sure to drag the duster over the surface with 

very little pressure. Barely touch the surface. The fibers in the duster are wax 

impregnated and work well, even better, when used a lot and are dirty looking. 

Dusting the car removes potential scratch causing debris from the surface. The 

interior duster magically pulls the dust from the dash, console and seats. Highly 

recommended. 

Vent and Instrument Brushes: work great for the tight spots like gauges and vents. 

Medical Swabs: these are like Q-Tips on steroids. I go through dozens of these 

before a Concours. Get them at any pharmacy or medical supply store. Very cheap. 

Chrome and Aluminum 

Chrome cleaners are abrasive and take off metal. Remember, chrome plating is 

very thin. Use them as little as possible! Wax the chrome afterwards to protect it 

and Quick Detail it often. 

*Aluminum accepts fine abrasives well. You cannot wear through it like chrome 

plating. 

*Always polish with back and forth movements in one direction only. 

*Keep your chrome and aluminum waxed to seal the pours from moisture and dirt. 

It will make the shine last longer and will clean up with a simple Quick Detailer 

spray. 

One great product is NeverDull. It uses fibers impregnated with small amounts of 

polish. They clean very well and will not scratch easily. Easy to use. Great for a 

quick weekly touch up for exhaust tips. Grab a wad use it and throw it away. Simple. 

Plastic and Glass Care 

Gauge faces, soft-top windows and other plastics need to be polished and protected. 

Always use a microfiber towel. (They make a special dust-free glass cleaning 


microfiber towels that works great! I use it a lot.) It will not scratch. Rub in back and 

forth directions. 

Products I like for plastic: 

Plexus: this is a polish and plastic protector, originally for the aerospace 

industry. Very low abrasiveness. 

Meguiars #17 Cleaner: a decent polish which helps remove small scratches 

and mars on plastic. 

Meguiars #10 Protectant: Easy to use, no greasy residue. 

EagleOne Plastic Cleaner: This contains fillers which helps hide swirls and 

scratches. 

Mothers Plastic Polish: Easy to use, medium residue, good cleaning action, 

good value. 

AutoGlym Glass Polish: A fine glass polish, medium abrasiveness, which will 

improve wiper performance 

Einzett Glas Polish: slightly finer than AutoGlym. Very easy to apply. 

Products for glass 

Stoners Invisible Glass: aerosol messy but streakfree, struggles with baked 

on dirt or bugs. A bit pricey. 

Eagle 20-20: This does an admirable job at cleaning, doesn’t streak and is 

very cheap. 

Eimann Fabrik Clear Vision. No streaks, glossy, cuts through haze but 

needs elbow grease to remove bugs. 

Mothers Glass Cleaner: Very strong, cuts through residue well. Good stuff! 

Einzett: One of my favorites! Really cuts through residue and bugs. 

Also, Rain X is a great product when applied properly, but keep in up or it can 

cause smearing and skipping. 

Polishing your glass with a product such as Einzett Glas Polish or AutoGlym 

Glass Polish will do wonders for improving wiper performance and rain 

dispersal. 

Do a Clay application to your windshield to clean it and stop chattering wipers. 

Audi factory service bulletins support this as a safety repair! 

You can use an electric buffer with the previously mentioned polishes (and 

others) to solve a lot of glass and wiper blade issues. Fogging, skipping, water 

dispersal, etc. Having problems? Ask me. 

Squeak, squeak! 

Got squeaky rubber seals? Sometimes even the rubber protectant or silicone cannot 

fix a stubborn squeak. 

A great trick is to apply a coating of Talcum Powder to the seal. It works! In fact, it 

is a Porsche factory approved method. (It’s also great for athlete’s foot.) 


Solvents 

Acrysol 

Virtually every German car manufacturers use this solvent to remove cosmoline, wax 

and grease, it will not harm the paint and leaves no residue. 

Brake Cleaning Spray 

This is a mild solvent that is safe on paint. It is a great way to clean and detail 

engine and brake components. It’s a miracle solvent!! 

It also is an excellent way to remove stains, dirt, grease and oil from carpet and 

leather. It will not stain and leaves no residue. 

**** you can always test a small area to make sure color will not lift *** 

Denatured Alcohol 

This will remove old stickers and decals, wax, oil and other contaminants. It is safe 

on plastic, vinyl, leather and paint. 


STEP 2 

STEP 1 

OEM & Cured Paint Fresh Paint 

Final Finishing 

Swirls, Hazes 

Very Fine 

Scratches 

Fine Scratches 

Light Oxidation 

Medium Scratches 

Medium Oxidation 

Dust Nibs 

Water Spots 

Deep Scratches 

Heavy Oxidation 

Paint Runs, orange 

Peel & Acid Rain 

How to use this guide: 

*Finer 

Than 

2000 Grit 

Abrasives 

*2000 Grit 

Abrasives 

*1500 grit 

Abrasives 

*1200 Grit 

Abrasives 

1) Determine paint type; 

Fresh or OEM & Cured 

2) Choose surface defect and 

corresponding compound / 

polish / sealant 

3) Follow path to recommended 

pads 

POLISH / SEALANT 

MACHINE GLAZE 

POLISH 

Pad Application Guide - Lake Country Mfg. Products 

COMPOUND / POLISH 

LIGHT DUTY COMPOUND 

HEAVY DUTY COMPOUND 






HEAVY DUTY 

COMPOUND 

MOST PAD AGGRESSION SCALE LEAST 

4-PLY 

TWISTED WOOL 

50/50 

WOOL/ACRYLIC 

ELECTRIFIED 

SHEEPSKIN 

YELLOW SINGLE PLY 

WOOL/ACRYLIC 

* Variations in compounds and polishes may produce different results. LAKE COUNTRY MFG. 

Phone: (262) 367-8395 Fax: (262) 367-2488 

www.lakecountrymfg.com 

© Copyright LCM 2002 

WOOL OR WOOL BLEND 

KNITTED 

PREWASHED 

LAMBSWOOL 

YELLOW FOAMS 

• Tufted • VC • Flat 

ORANGE FOAMS 

• Tufted • VC • D.A. 

GREEN FOAM 

• VC 

WHITE FOAMS 

• Tufted • VC • D.A. • Flat 

BLACK FOAMS 

• VC • D.A. (Gray) • Flat 

BLUE FOAMS 

• Tufted • VC

Got a question, a problem or a 

Tip you’d like to pass along? 

Drop a note to Winston… 

Winston@johnbullgarage.com

Detailing Tips & Tricks from the John Bull Garage - Cherod.com

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