Exploring Southern Veracruz State (part 4) - Veracruz-smile.com

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Exploring South: Tlacotalpan
TLACOTALPAN continues
first sugar cane mills here. Spanish settlers launched
dozens of cane-based haciendas and the city of San
Cristobal de Tlacotalpan was founded in 1541.
As a center of wealth along an easily navigated river,
Tlacotalpan was the site of fierce fighting against
European pirates who coveted the city during the 17th
and 18th centuries. Under the Spaniards, it was a port
for frigates and ships from Havana, Cartagena, and
Campeche. In the nineteenth century, the Papaloapan
River would welcome large sailing vessels and schooners
sailing to and from Europe. Steamships carrying
passengers, precious wood, tobacco, animal skins,
cotton, and other wealth from the interior of the state
fueled a building boom. Export of this merchandise
facilitated the import of dishware, ceramic, tablecloths,
marble, and all kinds of luxury items from abroad.
The city’s artists had the opportunity to study in Italy,
France and England, and to this day painting, music,
poetry, and literature are an integral part of the lives of
Tlacotalpan’s inhabitants.
With its deeply rooted feasts and traditions,
Tlacotalpan is the cradle of Veracruz folklore, especially
for the celebration of the Fiesta de la Virgen
de la Candelaria (Candlemas Madonna Festival). The
festival begins on January 31st at 3pm and lasts for 8
days, until February 9th, all day and all night. People
dress in traditional clothing and traditional foods
such as arroz a la tumbada (rice cooked in fish broth),
pescado a la veracruzana (fish, with tomatoes, olives,
chillies, and onions), white gorditas (a sweet bread,
about the size and shape of an English muffin, longaniza
(a type of sausage), enchiladas, naranjas rellenas
(stuffed oranges), and dulce de leche (similar to caramel
candy) are served.
The “Virgen de la Candelaria” (Virgin of Candlemas)
is brought out onto the streets of the village to bless
the fishing and the people. At the front of the procession
is the Roman Catholic Archbishop of the Port of
Veracruz, along with other important clergy in the
region. The band from the Naval Academy in nearby
Antón Lizardo gives a performance and there
are fireworks at night. The celebration draws
thousands of visitors.
This riverside town’s malecón is lined with restaurants
and guides hawking riverboat tours.
The city has seven well-tended plazas in all and
strolling from one to the next is a delight. After
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