Exploring Southern Veracruz State (part 4) - Veracruz-smile.com

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The smiling stat Exploring South: Tlacotalpan TLACOTALPAN continues first sugar cane mills here. Spanish settlers launched dozens of cane-based haciendas and the city of San Cristobal de Tlacotalpan was founded in 1541. As a center of wealth along an easily navigated river, Tlacotalpan was the site of fierce fighting against European pirates who coveted the city during the 17th and 18th centuries. Under the Spaniards, it was a port for frigates and ships from Havana, Cartagena, and Campeche. In the nineteenth century, the Papaloapan River would welcome large sailing vessels and schooners sailing to and from Europe. Steamships carrying passengers, precious wood, tobacco, animal skins, cotton, and other wealth from the interior of the state fueled a building boom. Export of this merchandise facilitated the import of dishware, ceramic, tablecloths, marble, and all kinds of luxury items from abroad. The city’s artists had the opportunity to study in Italy, France and England, and to this day painting, music, poetry, and literature are an integral part of the lives of Tlacotalpan’s inhabitants. With its deeply rooted feasts and traditions, Tlacotalpan is the cradle of Veracruz folklore, especially for the celebration of the Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria (Candlemas Madonna Festival). The festival begins on January 31st at 3pm and lasts for 8 days, until February 9th, all day and all night. People dress in traditional clothing and traditional foods such as arroz a la tumbada (rice cooked in fish broth), pescado a la veracruzana (fish, with tomatoes, olives, chillies, and onions), white gorditas (a sweet bread, about the size and shape of an English muffin, longaniza (a type of sausage), enchiladas, naranjas rellenas (stuffed oranges), and dulce de leche (similar to caramel candy) are served. The “Virgen de la Candelaria” (Virgin of Candlemas) is brought out onto the streets of the village to bless the fishing and the people. At the front of the procession is the Roman Catholic Archbishop of the Port of Veracruz, along with other important clergy in the region. The band from the Naval Academy in nearby Antón Lizardo gives a performance and there are fireworks at night. The celebration draws thousands of visitors. This riverside town’s malecón is lined with restaurants and guides hawking riverboat tours. The city has seven well-tended plazas in all and strolling from one to the next is a delight. After CONTENTS SEARCH VIEW PRINT EXIT NEXT > < BACK IV-10
TLACOTALPAN continues parking near the Plaza Colón, walk toward the main square (Plaza Zaragoza) and admire the Iglesia de San Cristobal. Stop and enjoy a drink or coffee at one of the adjacent sidewalk cafes the walk past the Iglesia de la Virgen de la Candelario toward the immaculate Plaza Hidalgo and the Museo Salvador Ferrando. The gregarious museum caretaker is happy to show off the eclectic display of regal and everyday antiques from England, Spain and France, brought during the city’s 19th century heyday as an international port. There are also two museums devoted to the city’s most revered native son Agustin Lara (1900-70), one of Latin America’s most prolific and popular composers and singers. For dining, try the Restaurante Doña Lala (also a popular three-star hotel). The Hotel Candelaria is also a well- The smiling stat liked lodging option. Exploring South: Tlacotalpan, Alvarado From Tlacotalpan it’s 97 kms (60 miles) to get back to Veracruz City. The somewhat disjointed highway passes through coastal towns and past large sand dunes that occasionally yield glimpses of the Gulf of Mexico. ALVARADO Traveling north from Tlacotalpan, the Alvarado Bridge stretches over the Papaloapan River, connecting the town of Alvarado to the southern reaches of Veracruz state. Views from the bridge showcase the beautiful river and bustling city below. The Port of Alvarado is noteworthy for its elegant architecture, such as the Palacio Municipal, the city’s beautiful zócalo, and the Iglesia de la Virgen del Rosario, a lovely colonial church dating back to the 18th century. Located just 72 km (44.7 miles) from the port of Veracruz, Alvarado brings together jungle, dunes, and sea. The climate is very warm (with heavy rainfall in the summer and early fall) and an annual average temperature of 26° C / 78.8 F. Settled first by the Totonacs and then by the Olmecs during the expansion of the Aztec Empire, the town was originally called Atlizintla, which means “next to the abundant water.” It owes its present name to the Spanish Conquistador, Captain Pedro de Alvarado. The territory is washed by the Papaloapan and Blanco Rivers (tributaries of Lake Alvarado), which flow into the sea here. This seaport, nicknamed “La Sultana del Papaloapan” (Sultan of Papaloapan), is famous in history for its battle against U.S. troops who invaded it in 1846. It is also known as “generosa” (bighearted) for having supported the city of Tlacotalpan when it was flooded by the Papaloapan River in 2000. The economy is based on growing corn, rice, beans, mangos and oranges, as well as cattle ranching, industry, and fishing. The city’s outskirts are a bit tattered, but the main square is a delight. CONTENTS SEARCH VIEW PRINT EXIT NEXT > < BACK IV-11
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Exploring Southern Veracruz State (part 4) - Veracruz-smile.com

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