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Exploring Southern Veracruz State (part 4) - Veracruz-smile.com

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SANTIAGO TUXTLA continues<br />

another option or the Gran Santiago Plaza.<br />

Santiago Tuxtla serves as a good base for exploring<br />

the town and archaeological site at Tres Zapotes (23<br />

km/14.2 miles to the west). Despite its former status<br />

as a stronghold of the Olmec culture, today the<br />

archaeological site is just mounds and cornfields<br />

(most of the site’s Olmec relics<br />

have been transplanted to either<br />

Xalapa or Mexico City). The site<br />

dates back to the early Olmec<br />

period (1,200 B.C.) and flourished<br />

from around 500 BC until 100 BC.<br />

The smiling stat<br />

The city once controlled a vast area of<br />

southern Mexico.<br />

The archaeological site is famed for its<br />

“Stela C.” A stela is an obelisk or upright<br />

stone pillar, thought to be a primitive<br />

<strong>com</strong>memoration or gravestone.<br />

In 1939, archeologist Matthew Stirling<br />

discovered the bottom half of Stela C.<br />

This stela was carved from basalt, with<br />

one side showing Olmec-style engraving<br />

and on the other was the oldest<br />

Mesoamerican long count calendar<br />

ever unearthed (use of bars and<br />

dots numbering system later adopted<br />

by the Mayan and Zapotec). It is said<br />

this finding gives the earliest positive<br />

proof of the Olmec “discovery” of the concept of<br />

zero. The small museum at the site also displays some<br />

of the most relevant finds of Olmec civilization. The<br />

Tres Zapotes Olmec head is here (dating to about 100<br />

B.C.) – the first head found in modern times (1862).<br />

<strong>Exploring</strong> South: Santiago Tuxtla, Tlacotalpan<br />

TLACOTALPAN<br />

98 km from Lake Catemaco; pop. 9,000; elevation 30 feet<br />

This color splashed colonial town lies 98 kms (61<br />

miles) from Catemaco and 97 kms (60 miles) south<br />

of <strong>Veracruz</strong> City. The name “Tlacotalpan” is Nahuatl<br />

meaning “place between the rivers.” In keeping with<br />

its namesake, this is a riverside city of colonial streets<br />

lined with porticos and striking buildings fronted by<br />

colonnades. It is known for its classic architecture and<br />

buildings painted in bright, contrasting pastel colors<br />

and red tiled roofs.<br />

Tlacotalpan was chosen as a UNESCO World<br />

Heritage Site in 1998. The designation reads the<br />

“urban layout and architecture of Tlacotalpan represent<br />

a fusion of Spanish and Caribbean traditions of<br />

exceptional importance and quality... Its outstanding<br />

character lies in its townscape of wide streets,<br />

modest houses in an exuberant variety of styles and<br />

colors, and many mature trees in public and private<br />

open spaces.” (UNESCO, 1998.) The city is a delight to<br />

explore and when visiting during the hot summer<br />

months you’ll have the place to yourself.<br />

The area had been inhabited since pre-Columbian<br />

times by the Totonaco and Toltec peoples, however<br />

little remains of these cultures. Spanish conquistador<br />

Pedro de Alvarado first visited the area in 1518.<br />

In the late 1520’s, Hernán Cortés formed Mexico’s<br />

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