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Exploring Southern Veracruz State (part 4) - Veracruz-smile.com

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OVERVIEW continues<br />

coastline of Los Tuxtlas region is gorgeous,<br />

but difficult to access. There are headlands,<br />

lagoons, bays, cattle pastures, and green hills<br />

rolling down the shore. The deserted beaches<br />

are dotted with small fishing villages, like La<br />

Barra, Playa Escondida, Montepió and Roca<br />

Partida.<br />

CATEMACO<br />

166 km south of <strong>Veracruz</strong> City<br />

Catemaco sits on the western shore of the mystical<br />

Laguna (Lake) Catemaco. At 361 meters (1,115 feet) in<br />

elevation, the area enjoys a relatively moderate climate.<br />

(However, it is usually more humid after heavy rainfall<br />

in June and October.) The oval-shaped lake is 8 km (4.9<br />

miles) wide and 11 km (6.8 miles) long, and lies in a crater<br />

ringed by volcanic hills. It is filled by four gushing rivers.<br />

The lake is nearly surrounded by a country road, and<br />

numerous islands jut from the dark green waters. Most<br />

visitors use Catemaco City as their base and take boat<br />

excursions to explore this beautiful lake, its shoreline<br />

and island attractions.<br />

Catemaco is arguably Mexico’s most picturesque lake.<br />

It’s surrounded by lush vegetation, including a wide vari-<br />

The smiling stat<br />

<strong>Exploring</strong> South: Catemaco<br />

ety of hardwood trees like cedar, mahogany, oak, walnut,<br />

laurel, ceiba, primavera, chico sapote (the source of<br />

chewing gum) and others. As for the wildlife, there are<br />

armadillos, raccoons, deer, squirrels, monkeys, ocelots,<br />

coyotes, and tlacuaches (Mexican opossums). The region<br />

is also known for its variety of poisonous snakes such as<br />

the coral snake, rattlesnake, sorda, and capulincillo.<br />

The Lake Catemaco area hosts some 550 species of<br />

migratory and local birds. Sparrows, woodpeckers, cardinals,<br />

doves, parakeets, herons, chachalacas, sparrow<br />

hawks, and other species thrive here and make this one<br />

of Latin America’s prime bird watching zones. In April<br />

and May, hundreds of herons nest on the tiny Isla de la<br />

Garzas. (Island of the Herons).<br />

The region’s exuberant ecology has caught the eye of<br />

Mystical Catemaco<br />

Catemaco is known throughout Mexico<br />

and Central America as sort of “ground<br />

zero” for mysticism, spells, white magic,<br />

ceremonial magic, incantations, and black<br />

magic. Melding pre-Hispanic, Catholic<br />

and West African voodoo practices, the<br />

town has more brujos (shaman) and traditional<br />

healers than anywhere else in<br />

Mexico. This marriage of religion and<br />

“witchcraft” has produced an interesting<br />

cultural heritage. Locals are known to<br />

attend mass, then cross the plaza to seek<br />

the services of mystics and shamans. It’s<br />

<strong>com</strong>mon for visitors to <strong>part</strong>icipate in simpler<br />

practices such as a limpia (cleansing)<br />

or perhaps a bit of white magic (spells<br />

and incantations).<br />

The town draws attention each year during<br />

its annual Witches Conference. The<br />

first Friday in March of each year, mystics<br />

from Mexico and other countries arrive to<br />

<strong>part</strong>icipate in a mass cleansing ceremony.<br />

The ceremony takes place on Cerro Mono<br />

Blanco (White Monkey Hill) just outside of<br />

Catemaco City. The town gets quite full,<br />

so channel your hotel reservation early!<br />

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