Carriacou Regatta Festival 2007 - Caribbean Compass

—Continued from page 23 ...Cuba
Music was a highlight, too. Towns and villages had “music houses” where for a dollar
you could hear exceptional jazz groups from 4:00PM to whenever. We bought CDs
from many groups and relive Cuba as they play.
Cuba: No amps, no bling, no problem
Tourism is enormous in Cuba; the few US citizens who visit enter via Canada and
Mexico. The resort hotels are all-inclusive, keeping tourists away from the real Cuba
and the Cubans. We sat down at one such hotel’s restaurant and ordered a bowl of
pistachio ice cream (the first for a month) and beers. We did offer to pay, but the staff
were confused at the offer of money. A one CUC tip solved the matter. At another
hotel’s bar, I was challenged. “Are you in the marina?” I was asked as I looked down
at my wrinkled yachtie clothes. “If not, you must pay CUC 17 to be on our grounds,”
the waiter said. Then he added, “But that is ridiculous, so leave us a tip and you can
drink and eat all day.”
Yvonne’s brother, David, and his wife, Irene, arrived in Cienfuegos, where we were
waiting, and we toured inland before heading for the offshore islands and lobsters.
It seems there are no small lobsters in Cuba. Fishermen in rusty concrete boats with
bits falling off would throw lobster on our decks looking for a trade. A dollar’s worth
of rum gave us five grand lobsters. We also ate stingray and turtle given us. Many
islands had good snorkelling but due to the many gifts of seafood, we had no need
to shoot fish. David did land an enormous tarpon, which we released.
Havana has some wonderfully restored buildings (as well as dilapidated, unrestored
buildings) and we delighted in walking for miles. The Capitol, where the onetime
democratic parliament operated, was a masterpiece and we spent hours exploring
its nooks and crannies.
The Cuban family unit is very strong. Grandma is always in
the house to look after children while both parents work.
Unless the family owned the house before 1954, all houses are
government owned. The extended family lives in one house; we
found four or five generations crammed into a house as best
they could manage. On our inland trips, we stayed with families
in beautiful homes which operate as guest houses. All the
pre-1954 furniture, paintings and porcelain are displayed.
There were 18-foot ceilings, delicate interior courtyards and, of
course, delightful, generous hosts. We paid CUC 25 for a
night, the Government-prescribed amount. The owner pays a
monthly fee to the Government and we filled out papers as we
arrived. Authorities can arrive at any moment to check the
books of such a house, and jail or large fines heavily punish
any cheating. Neighbours count the number of guests and
report in. To one particularly generous family we tried to offer
a gift of an old electric drill. The head was aghast, “If I took
that the neighbours would report it and how could I explain?
Why, I could end up in jail.”
Private enterprise does exist and we bought great pizzas from
a vendor with a street oven for five Cuban pesos (20 US cents)
but these are intended for Cubans to buy, as tourists are not
meant to have Cuban pesos, only CUC.
Two months was all we were allowed in Cuba. We were
headed next for Norfolk, Virginia, to refit our boat. As
Australians, we had been treated as inferior beings by USA
embassies in Colombia and Jamaica, who wanted us to wait
months for an appointment to get a visa for the States. In
Havana, at the United States Interests Section of the Swiss
Embassy, our visas were issued the next day. One fact that impresses or depresses
the USA citizens is that the United States Interests Section is a seven-storey
building within at least three acres of secure fencing and has a very large staff.
The USIS is processing over 200 visas a day for Cubans (as well as two
Australians) to visit the USA.
After David and Irene departed from Isla de Juventud, we sailed for Maria la Gorda
at the western end of Cuba, to check out. Then, before June 1, came Tropical Storm
Barry, the first named storm of 2007, so we sheltered along the northwest coast of
Cuba, island hopping each day. As soon as the weather improved, we sailed for
Beaufort, North Carolina, and entered the USA. Interestingly, the Customs simply
told us we could not come from Cuba to the USA and took my Cuban cigars. We
showed our US visas, issued in Cuba, which amazed them.
We look forward to seeing many USA mates or at least talking to them when we
get to the internet.
Bernie and Yvonne Katchor have been cruising on Australia 31 for 13 years.
His book Around the Next Bend, about Australia 31’s voyages
in the rivers of Venezuela and Guyana, is available at
www.adventurebooksofseattle.com/comingattractions.htm.
IT’S MUCH MORE
THAN A MARINA: IT’S HOME!
Over and over again our guests refer to our marina as their “Home”!
Join us this summer and continue to enjoy the hospitality.
WE OFFER:
• 24 hour security
• 120 concrete slip berths
• Electricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps
(single phase and three phase)
• 16ft channel
• Fuel dock and bunkering
• Free satellite TV at each slip
• Telephone hook-up
• Shower facilities
• Wireless internet, banks and laundry within the complex
• Pick-up and drop-off from major supermarkets
We monitor VHF channels 16 & 79A (alpha – American system)
P.O. Box 4540, Airport Road, Sint Maarten, N.A., Caribbean
Tel: 599-5442309 Fax: 599-5443378
Visit our website: www.sbmarina.biz E-mail: reservations@sbmarina.biz
SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37