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01,7,8 cover.indd - California Apparel News

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Obituary<br />

<strong>California</strong> Mart’s<br />

Adele Morse<br />

Platt, 87<br />

Adele Morse Platt, philanthropist<br />

and former apparelindustry<br />

executive, died on<br />

Sept. 30 after a long battle<br />

with Parkinson’s disease.<br />

She was 87.<br />

Platt was the widow of<br />

Harvey Morse, who, with<br />

his brother Barney, founded<br />

the <strong>California</strong> Mart in<br />

1962. The wholesale apparel<br />

venue eventually grew to<br />

encompass three buildings<br />

and is today known as the<br />

Adele Morse Platt<br />

<strong>California</strong> Market Center.<br />

Platt was one of several<br />

general partners of the building, which remained primarily<br />

family owned and operated until Equitable Life Assurance<br />

took the building over in 1994. Today, the building is owned<br />

by Jamison Properties.<br />

A Philadelphia native, Platt moved with her family in the<br />

1930s to Los Angeles, where she graduated from Fairfax<br />

High School. In 1940, she met and married Harvey Morse.<br />

Throughout their 39-year marriage, Morse worked in the apparel<br />

industry, first in the lingerie business and then as the<br />

developer and owner of the <strong>California</strong> Mart.<br />

After Morse’s death in 1979, she married Conrad “Conny”<br />

Platt in 1983.<br />

Throughout her life, Adele Morse Platt was an avid supporter<br />

of many philanthropic causes. She was active in her<br />

local Haddassah and was a supporter of Cedars-Sinai Medical<br />

Center.<br />

There is an Adele Morse Platt Conference Center at the<br />

City of Hope Medical Center in Duarte, Calif. She received<br />

the City of Hope’s Spirit of Life award in 1987. In 2004, she<br />

received the Reflections award from the Los Angeles Jewish<br />

Home for the Aging.<br />

“She devoted herself to support of the Jewish Home for<br />

the Aging, City of Hope, Temple Israel of Hollywood, the<br />

Dorothy Chandler Pavilion of the Music Center and many<br />

other causes,” said her son-in-law Rich Reinis. “Charity was<br />

a serious business for Adele and a barometer she used in<br />

choosing her friends.”<br />

Ilse Metchek, president of the <strong>California</strong> Fashion Association,<br />

knew Platt through the Morse family. In the 1990s,<br />

Metchek served as the general manager of the <strong>California</strong><br />

Mart. “She was the philanthropist in the family,” Metchek<br />

recalled. “And she had great taste and style sense.”<br />

Joyce Eisenberg Keefer, owner of The New Mart, was a<br />

friend of Platt and her husband. The two women were both<br />

active supporters of many of the same charities, including<br />

the Los Angeles Jewish Home for the Aging.<br />

“She was a darling, wonderful lady,” Keefer said.<br />

Barbara Kaplan, owner of the Extra Secretary at the<br />

CMC and Platt’s niece (she said she always called Platt “my<br />

‘tanta’”), described her aunt as “a woman of extreme integrity<br />

who led by example.”<br />

“She believed nothing was more important that family<br />

and friends,” Kaplan said, adding, “Adele and Harvey, being<br />

the key founders of the <strong>California</strong> Mart, changed the world<br />

of fashion.” We thank her for that, and she will be dearly<br />

missed.”<br />

Platt is survived by her husband, Conny; her children, David<br />

Morse, Susan Lebow, Marjorie Richards and Lois Reinis;<br />

sons-in-law Stephen Richards and Richard Reinis, Neal<br />

and Fran Platt; 15 grandchildren; and 17 great-grandchildren<br />

(with three more on the way, according to Rich Reinis).<br />

Services are scheduled for Oct. 2 at Hillside Cemetery.<br />

In lieu of flowers, the family requests donations be made in<br />

Adele Morse Platt’s name to the Jewish Home for the Aging<br />

or another charity.—Alison A. Nieder<br />

There’s more<br />

on <strong>Apparel</strong><strong>News</strong>.net.<br />

More on the Web:<br />

��Obituary:<br />

Gap’s<br />

Don Fischer, 81<br />

NEWS<br />

Juniors Continued from page 1<br />

kinds of resources I would never have considered in the past,<br />

including juniors brands.”<br />

The stigma, Phillips said, of picking up juniors brands has<br />

faded as the economy tanked. “We want to maintain our upper-boutique<br />

status by carrying [contemporary and designer]<br />

brands, but it’s a new day. If a brand has the right look at the<br />

right price point, we’ll pick it up.”<br />

These days, $60 juniors dresses hang alongside Sirens &<br />

Sailors’ carefully chosen vintage and young designer offerings<br />

that retail in the $200 echelon.<br />

That’s good news for some juniors brands that are struggling<br />

with department stores that demand bargain-basement<br />

pricing combined with fast fashion–style garments.<br />

Gloria Brandes, founder and designer of the BB Dakota<br />

young contemporary brand and Jack by BB Dakota juniors<br />

brand in Irvine, Calif., said wrangling with department<br />

stores’ demands is pushing her to seek alternative distribution<br />

avenues—not the least of which are contemporary boutiques.<br />

Barry Balonick, owner of the Lunachix juniors brand<br />

in Los Angeles, agreed. “There is a big push for drop-dead<br />

cheap clothes in department stores,” said Balonick, who also<br />

manufactures private-label juniors apparel.<br />

Juniors brands capable of upgrading their fabrication and<br />

offering trend-right pieces at a reasonable price are finding<br />

new opportunities at boutiques and specialty retailers—or in<br />

the contemporary departments of major retailers.<br />

As if to illustrate that point, Brandes is transforming BB<br />

Dakota, which<br />

started out as a<br />

true-blue juniors<br />

brand, into a young<br />

contemporary<br />

brand. Jack by BB<br />

Dakota, which was<br />

launched to fill the<br />

juniors void left by<br />

its big-sister brand<br />

and retails for 30<br />

percent less, is<br />

also moving more<br />

upscale, Brandes<br />

said. “I’m doing<br />

almost no business<br />

with juniors<br />

departments [in<br />

department stores]<br />

because they are<br />

so price-oriented.<br />

We’ve abandoned<br />

them for more specialty<br />

departments,<br />

and, as of spring 2<strong>01</strong>0, we’ll be out of juniors departments<br />

completely. I have no interest in it,” she said. “Juniors is an<br />

over-populated segment. It isn’t the success story it once<br />

was.”<br />

Eyeing the competition<br />

MORE YMI: YMI has significantly expanded<br />

its offerings to include sportswear<br />

and activewear, but its price points<br />

remain juniors.<br />

Luckily, contemporary buyers for years have been sneaking<br />

a peek at juniors brands. “Why wouldn’t they? Contemporary<br />

is taking on a younger edge, and juniors brands have<br />

been skewing a little older. The lines were already blurring,<br />

and then the economy pushed it all over the edge,” Lunachix’s<br />

Balonick said.<br />

Lunachix has enjoyed a strong uptick in interest among<br />

contemporary retailers actively searching out juniors resources.<br />

The brand, which offers a full range of garments—includ-<br />

JUNIORS PARADISE: Lady owner Camille de Soto’s mix of juniors,<br />

contemporary and vintage has earned her a loyal following<br />

among shoppers aged 25 to 45 and kudos from Lucky magazine,<br />

which named it one of the 50 best boutiques in the city.<br />

ing knit and woven tops and pants, dresses, and denim—was<br />

one of the first to take its fabrications more high-end than the<br />

typical juniors fare. The breadth of its offerings, its fabrications<br />

and its $24–$80 retail price points have been the key to<br />

getting the brand into non-juniors distribution channels, Balonick<br />

said.<br />

YMI, a Los Angeles–based juniors denim brand, is looking<br />

for wider distribution possibilities by fast-tracking its expansion<br />

into sportswear and activewear for Spring 2<strong>01</strong>0. Deke Jamieson,<br />

the brand’s executive vice president of licensing, said that while<br />

YMI will remain a true juniors brand, expanding its offerings is<br />

key to growing.<br />

“Expanding into tops, dresses and activewear, while maintaining<br />

a high price-to-value relationship, is going to make<br />

us a more important brand to both retailers and consumers,”<br />

he said.<br />

From a design perspective, juniors brands and more highend<br />

brands are pulling from the same sources for inspiration.<br />

“We’re all looking at the same magazines, the same trend<br />

reports, the same everything. Where juniors brands differentiate<br />

themselves is price point,” Jamieson said.<br />

To communicate its new positioning, which includes upgraded<br />

styling and fabrications, YMI dropped the “Jeanswear”<br />

tag from its label and went to the MAGIC Marketplace<br />

in September with a new booth for the new concept.<br />

“The booth was bigger and featured a fresh, new look for the<br />

brand. It didn’t look like a booth for jeans, and it communicated<br />

that to buyers,” Jamieson said.<br />

JUNIORS NO MORE: BB Dakota keeps a young contemporary<br />

price point but skews more high-end with leather pieces and<br />

sophisticated styling.<br />

Barbara Fields, founder of the Los Angeles–based buying<br />

office bearing her name, said there are many juniors brands,<br />

both established and brand new, waiting in the wings for<br />

their shot at specialty and contemporary retailers. “I’m looking<br />

at a list that’s five pages long of new juniors brands that<br />

don’t want to be in department stores and are targeting good<br />

specialty stores,” she said.<br />

The burgeoning “better juniors” market, as Fields calls it,<br />

is making it so that specialty stores can still get exclusivity<br />

and “attitude.” “These new resources offer elevated perception<br />

at juniors prices,” she noted.<br />

Creating a new price point<br />

Balonick thinks the interest from contemporary buyers<br />

will remain even when the economy re<strong>cover</strong>s. “There is less<br />

resistance on the part of [specialty and contemporary retailers]<br />

now toward juniors because everyone is looking for help<br />

keeping their doors open and their lights on. But we’ve created<br />

a new price point in the market, and it will stick.”<br />

Camille de Soto, owner of the Lady boutique in Los Angeles’<br />

Eagle Rock neighborhood, agreed. She has stocked her<br />

shop with a mix of contemporary, vintage and juniors brands<br />

since she opened in 2007 and can’t see losing the walletfriendly<br />

juniors resources. “Most customers don’t realize if<br />

it’s a juniors line. They’re not aware and it doesn’t matter.<br />

I’m always going to buy [from juniors resources] because<br />

the fashion is fun and inexpensive and it sells,” she said.<br />

Kaitlyn Whalen, the manager and buyer at the Animal<br />

House specialty store in Los Angeles’ Venice Beach, said<br />

juniors apparel accounts for 25 percent of her business. The<br />

store stocks goods from high-end and mid-range brands as<br />

diverse as Mike & Chris, !It Jeans, Jack by BB Dakota,<br />

Ella Moss and Joe’s Jeans. “We’ll keep selling [juniors<br />

goods] because our customers keep buying it. People like<br />

a $60 jacket that is of decent quality,” Whalen said. “Joe’s<br />

Jeans aren’t flying out the door [at over $120], but we sell a<br />

lot of !It Jeans [in the $50 range].” ●<br />

OCTOBER 2–8, 2009 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 7

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