01,7,8 cover.indd - California Apparel News
01,7,8 cover.indd - California Apparel News
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Obituary<br />
<strong>California</strong> Mart’s<br />
Adele Morse<br />
Platt, 87<br />
Adele Morse Platt, philanthropist<br />
and former apparelindustry<br />
executive, died on<br />
Sept. 30 after a long battle<br />
with Parkinson’s disease.<br />
She was 87.<br />
Platt was the widow of<br />
Harvey Morse, who, with<br />
his brother Barney, founded<br />
the <strong>California</strong> Mart in<br />
1962. The wholesale apparel<br />
venue eventually grew to<br />
encompass three buildings<br />
and is today known as the<br />
Adele Morse Platt<br />
<strong>California</strong> Market Center.<br />
Platt was one of several<br />
general partners of the building, which remained primarily<br />
family owned and operated until Equitable Life Assurance<br />
took the building over in 1994. Today, the building is owned<br />
by Jamison Properties.<br />
A Philadelphia native, Platt moved with her family in the<br />
1930s to Los Angeles, where she graduated from Fairfax<br />
High School. In 1940, she met and married Harvey Morse.<br />
Throughout their 39-year marriage, Morse worked in the apparel<br />
industry, first in the lingerie business and then as the<br />
developer and owner of the <strong>California</strong> Mart.<br />
After Morse’s death in 1979, she married Conrad “Conny”<br />
Platt in 1983.<br />
Throughout her life, Adele Morse Platt was an avid supporter<br />
of many philanthropic causes. She was active in her<br />
local Haddassah and was a supporter of Cedars-Sinai Medical<br />
Center.<br />
There is an Adele Morse Platt Conference Center at the<br />
City of Hope Medical Center in Duarte, Calif. She received<br />
the City of Hope’s Spirit of Life award in 1987. In 2004, she<br />
received the Reflections award from the Los Angeles Jewish<br />
Home for the Aging.<br />
“She devoted herself to support of the Jewish Home for<br />
the Aging, City of Hope, Temple Israel of Hollywood, the<br />
Dorothy Chandler Pavilion of the Music Center and many<br />
other causes,” said her son-in-law Rich Reinis. “Charity was<br />
a serious business for Adele and a barometer she used in<br />
choosing her friends.”<br />
Ilse Metchek, president of the <strong>California</strong> Fashion Association,<br />
knew Platt through the Morse family. In the 1990s,<br />
Metchek served as the general manager of the <strong>California</strong><br />
Mart. “She was the philanthropist in the family,” Metchek<br />
recalled. “And she had great taste and style sense.”<br />
Joyce Eisenberg Keefer, owner of The New Mart, was a<br />
friend of Platt and her husband. The two women were both<br />
active supporters of many of the same charities, including<br />
the Los Angeles Jewish Home for the Aging.<br />
“She was a darling, wonderful lady,” Keefer said.<br />
Barbara Kaplan, owner of the Extra Secretary at the<br />
CMC and Platt’s niece (she said she always called Platt “my<br />
‘tanta’”), described her aunt as “a woman of extreme integrity<br />
who led by example.”<br />
“She believed nothing was more important that family<br />
and friends,” Kaplan said, adding, “Adele and Harvey, being<br />
the key founders of the <strong>California</strong> Mart, changed the world<br />
of fashion.” We thank her for that, and she will be dearly<br />
missed.”<br />
Platt is survived by her husband, Conny; her children, David<br />
Morse, Susan Lebow, Marjorie Richards and Lois Reinis;<br />
sons-in-law Stephen Richards and Richard Reinis, Neal<br />
and Fran Platt; 15 grandchildren; and 17 great-grandchildren<br />
(with three more on the way, according to Rich Reinis).<br />
Services are scheduled for Oct. 2 at Hillside Cemetery.<br />
In lieu of flowers, the family requests donations be made in<br />
Adele Morse Platt’s name to the Jewish Home for the Aging<br />
or another charity.—Alison A. Nieder<br />
There’s more<br />
on <strong>Apparel</strong><strong>News</strong>.net.<br />
More on the Web:<br />
��Obituary:<br />
Gap’s<br />
Don Fischer, 81<br />
NEWS<br />
Juniors Continued from page 1<br />
kinds of resources I would never have considered in the past,<br />
including juniors brands.”<br />
The stigma, Phillips said, of picking up juniors brands has<br />
faded as the economy tanked. “We want to maintain our upper-boutique<br />
status by carrying [contemporary and designer]<br />
brands, but it’s a new day. If a brand has the right look at the<br />
right price point, we’ll pick it up.”<br />
These days, $60 juniors dresses hang alongside Sirens &<br />
Sailors’ carefully chosen vintage and young designer offerings<br />
that retail in the $200 echelon.<br />
That’s good news for some juniors brands that are struggling<br />
with department stores that demand bargain-basement<br />
pricing combined with fast fashion–style garments.<br />
Gloria Brandes, founder and designer of the BB Dakota<br />
young contemporary brand and Jack by BB Dakota juniors<br />
brand in Irvine, Calif., said wrangling with department<br />
stores’ demands is pushing her to seek alternative distribution<br />
avenues—not the least of which are contemporary boutiques.<br />
Barry Balonick, owner of the Lunachix juniors brand<br />
in Los Angeles, agreed. “There is a big push for drop-dead<br />
cheap clothes in department stores,” said Balonick, who also<br />
manufactures private-label juniors apparel.<br />
Juniors brands capable of upgrading their fabrication and<br />
offering trend-right pieces at a reasonable price are finding<br />
new opportunities at boutiques and specialty retailers—or in<br />
the contemporary departments of major retailers.<br />
As if to illustrate that point, Brandes is transforming BB<br />
Dakota, which<br />
started out as a<br />
true-blue juniors<br />
brand, into a young<br />
contemporary<br />
brand. Jack by BB<br />
Dakota, which was<br />
launched to fill the<br />
juniors void left by<br />
its big-sister brand<br />
and retails for 30<br />
percent less, is<br />
also moving more<br />
upscale, Brandes<br />
said. “I’m doing<br />
almost no business<br />
with juniors<br />
departments [in<br />
department stores]<br />
because they are<br />
so price-oriented.<br />
We’ve abandoned<br />
them for more specialty<br />
departments,<br />
and, as of spring 2<strong>01</strong>0, we’ll be out of juniors departments<br />
completely. I have no interest in it,” she said. “Juniors is an<br />
over-populated segment. It isn’t the success story it once<br />
was.”<br />
Eyeing the competition<br />
MORE YMI: YMI has significantly expanded<br />
its offerings to include sportswear<br />
and activewear, but its price points<br />
remain juniors.<br />
Luckily, contemporary buyers for years have been sneaking<br />
a peek at juniors brands. “Why wouldn’t they? Contemporary<br />
is taking on a younger edge, and juniors brands have<br />
been skewing a little older. The lines were already blurring,<br />
and then the economy pushed it all over the edge,” Lunachix’s<br />
Balonick said.<br />
Lunachix has enjoyed a strong uptick in interest among<br />
contemporary retailers actively searching out juniors resources.<br />
The brand, which offers a full range of garments—includ-<br />
JUNIORS PARADISE: Lady owner Camille de Soto’s mix of juniors,<br />
contemporary and vintage has earned her a loyal following<br />
among shoppers aged 25 to 45 and kudos from Lucky magazine,<br />
which named it one of the 50 best boutiques in the city.<br />
ing knit and woven tops and pants, dresses, and denim—was<br />
one of the first to take its fabrications more high-end than the<br />
typical juniors fare. The breadth of its offerings, its fabrications<br />
and its $24–$80 retail price points have been the key to<br />
getting the brand into non-juniors distribution channels, Balonick<br />
said.<br />
YMI, a Los Angeles–based juniors denim brand, is looking<br />
for wider distribution possibilities by fast-tracking its expansion<br />
into sportswear and activewear for Spring 2<strong>01</strong>0. Deke Jamieson,<br />
the brand’s executive vice president of licensing, said that while<br />
YMI will remain a true juniors brand, expanding its offerings is<br />
key to growing.<br />
“Expanding into tops, dresses and activewear, while maintaining<br />
a high price-to-value relationship, is going to make<br />
us a more important brand to both retailers and consumers,”<br />
he said.<br />
From a design perspective, juniors brands and more highend<br />
brands are pulling from the same sources for inspiration.<br />
“We’re all looking at the same magazines, the same trend<br />
reports, the same everything. Where juniors brands differentiate<br />
themselves is price point,” Jamieson said.<br />
To communicate its new positioning, which includes upgraded<br />
styling and fabrications, YMI dropped the “Jeanswear”<br />
tag from its label and went to the MAGIC Marketplace<br />
in September with a new booth for the new concept.<br />
“The booth was bigger and featured a fresh, new look for the<br />
brand. It didn’t look like a booth for jeans, and it communicated<br />
that to buyers,” Jamieson said.<br />
JUNIORS NO MORE: BB Dakota keeps a young contemporary<br />
price point but skews more high-end with leather pieces and<br />
sophisticated styling.<br />
Barbara Fields, founder of the Los Angeles–based buying<br />
office bearing her name, said there are many juniors brands,<br />
both established and brand new, waiting in the wings for<br />
their shot at specialty and contemporary retailers. “I’m looking<br />
at a list that’s five pages long of new juniors brands that<br />
don’t want to be in department stores and are targeting good<br />
specialty stores,” she said.<br />
The burgeoning “better juniors” market, as Fields calls it,<br />
is making it so that specialty stores can still get exclusivity<br />
and “attitude.” “These new resources offer elevated perception<br />
at juniors prices,” she noted.<br />
Creating a new price point<br />
Balonick thinks the interest from contemporary buyers<br />
will remain even when the economy re<strong>cover</strong>s. “There is less<br />
resistance on the part of [specialty and contemporary retailers]<br />
now toward juniors because everyone is looking for help<br />
keeping their doors open and their lights on. But we’ve created<br />
a new price point in the market, and it will stick.”<br />
Camille de Soto, owner of the Lady boutique in Los Angeles’<br />
Eagle Rock neighborhood, agreed. She has stocked her<br />
shop with a mix of contemporary, vintage and juniors brands<br />
since she opened in 2007 and can’t see losing the walletfriendly<br />
juniors resources. “Most customers don’t realize if<br />
it’s a juniors line. They’re not aware and it doesn’t matter.<br />
I’m always going to buy [from juniors resources] because<br />
the fashion is fun and inexpensive and it sells,” she said.<br />
Kaitlyn Whalen, the manager and buyer at the Animal<br />
House specialty store in Los Angeles’ Venice Beach, said<br />
juniors apparel accounts for 25 percent of her business. The<br />
store stocks goods from high-end and mid-range brands as<br />
diverse as Mike & Chris, !It Jeans, Jack by BB Dakota,<br />
Ella Moss and Joe’s Jeans. “We’ll keep selling [juniors<br />
goods] because our customers keep buying it. People like<br />
a $60 jacket that is of decent quality,” Whalen said. “Joe’s<br />
Jeans aren’t flying out the door [at over $120], but we sell a<br />
lot of !It Jeans [in the $50 range].” ●<br />
OCTOBER 2–8, 2009 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 7