Business Better at Fashion Market Northern California

NEWSPAPER 2ND CLASS
Broadway
Bound
Macy’s Passport is headed to Broadway—specifically the
Orpheum Theatre on Broadway in downtown Los Angeles. The
star-studded fashion event, which raises funds for HIV/AIDS
charities, is planned for Sept. 16, with an after-party at the
California Market Center. For more about the move, see page 2.
Changing Value in Chinese
Yuan One More Headache
for Apparel Manufacturers
By Deborah Belgum Senior Editor
In the last year, cotton prices have skyrocketed as much
as 55 percent. Chinese workers are pushing for bigger paychecks.
And now the Chinese government is appreciating
the value of its national currency, making it more expensive
to manufacture in the country that is the apparel factory to
the world.
“The yuan was the next thing to hit,” said Michael Weisberg,
chief executive of Second Generation Inc., a Los
Angeles company that makes teen clothing under the Be-
Bop and Fishbowl brands.
For the last few years, U.S. apparel manufacturers have
been able to contain costs as soft economic conditions
worldwide kept labor costs low and raw materials in ample
➥ Yuan page 4
TRADE SHOW REPORT
Business Better at
Fashion Market
Northern California
By Andrew Asch Retail Editor
$3.50 VOLUME 66, NUMBER 28 JULY 2–8, 2010
SAN MATEO, CALIF.—At Fashion Market Northern
California, many of the trade show’s vendors said the
economy is improving but by baby steps.
Vendor space was sold out at the show, which ran June
26–29 at the San Mateo County Event Center in San Mateo,
Calif., which is 20 miles south of San Francisco. More
than 166 vendors showed contemporary and misses brands
at the regional trade event, which runs five times annually.
Also, buyer traffic was reportedly up, especially with
boutiques from the Pacific Northwest. Many vendors said
their sales were superior compared with the Fashion Market
Northern California’s June show in 2009.
However, many retailers were still playing it safe at the
➥ Northern California page 3
INSIDE:
Where fashion gets down to business SM
3 3
Macy’s Passport heads to Orpheum ... p. 2
Billabong buys Canadian retailer ... p. 2
Ever’s Bleick debuts new line ... p. 3
OC Swim Show planned ... p. 4
www.apparelnews.net

Macy’s Passport Heads to Orpheum Theatre
Macy’s Passport has a new name and a
new home, located at the Orpheum Theatre
in downtown Los Angeles.
After 14 years on the city’s west side, Macy’s
Passport—now called Macy’s Passport
Presents Glamorama—will move to downtown
Los Angeles for its Sept. 16 event. And
the Passport after-party will be held at the
California Market Center in downtown.
“This is huge for downtown,” said Kent
Smith, executive director of the Los Angeles
Fashion District Business Improvement
District.
The September event will raise funds for
AIDS Project Los Angeles and Project
Angel Food. For 28 years, Macy’s has been
raising funds for HIV/AIDS research and
education through its Passport events in San
Francisco, Chicago, Minneapolis and Los
Angeles. Over the years, the event has raised
more than $28 million.
The star-studded event will feature two headliner
performances by Grammy winner Macy
Gray and singer-songwriter Eric Hutchinson—
and, of course, plenty of fashion, including
Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Just Cavalli,
Jezebel and Marc by Marc Jacobs.
In recent years, Macy’s Passport has been
held at Barker Hangar in Santa Monica, Calif.
But Milinda Martin, Macy’s vice president
of media relations and cause marketing, said
Passport’s events in Chicago and Minneapolis
are held in historic theaters.
“We wanted to see if we could create that
energy in L.A.,” she said, adding, “We’re excited
to be part of downtown fashion and to
do what we can to raise the visibility of Los
Angeles as a fashion center.”
Assisting in the effort to bring the event
downtown were Bringing Back Broadway and
2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS JULY 2–8, 2010
NEWS
Los Angeles City Councilmember Jose Huizar.
Bringing Back Broadway is an initiative to
revitalize the historic movie theaters surrounding
Broadway in downtown Los Angeles.
“It’s a 10-year plan to bring back many of
the theaters on this corridor and, once again,
make Broadway the heart of Los Angeles,”
Huizar said.
The Orpheum Theatre was built in 1926.
Owner Steve Needleman renovated the space
in 2001, restoring many of the building’s
original architectural features. He said the
partnership with Macy’s came about quickly,
adding, “There are not a lot of 2,000-seaters
[in downtown].”
In addition to owning the Orpheum,
Needleman is president of Anjac Fashion
Buildings. As a second-generation member
of the fashion community, he said, hosting
such a high-profile fashion event also held
sentimental value.
“Being born and raised in this industry, this
is something that touches my heart.”
—Alison A. Nieder
Dow Discontinues XLA Fiber
Midland, Mich.–based Dow Chemical
Co. has announced that it will cease operations
for and stop production of the Dow
XLA stretch fiber within months.
XLA is part of the $58 billion chemical
giant’s Dow Fiber Solutions division, which
is also shuttering.
“This decision is consistent with our effort
to streamline and focus the company’s
portfolio of businesses,” said Rebecca Bentley,
Dow’s senior public-affairs leader. “After
a thorough review, Dow determined that
DFS was unable to compete with other Dow
Performance Businesses for further investment
and expansion.”
DFS and XLA, which launched in 2002,
targeted the contemporary and premiumdenim
markets, forming partnerships with
brands such as Citizens of Humanity and
Paige Premium Denim. XLA, an olefinbased
soft stretch fiber, was billed as a good
fit for the denim industry, as it could withstand
the harsh chemicals and high tempera-
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Coming soon...
July 9
Cover: Swim Preview
Denim Report
What’s Checking
Webwatch
NY Textile Resource Guide
Waterwear
Bonus Distribution
California Gift Show 7/13–19
LA Gift & Home Market 7/13–19
Premiere Vision Preview NY 7/14–15
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim
7/15–19
Miami Swim Show 7/17–20
Salon Allure-Miami 7/17–20
Blue 7/18–20
MRket NY 7/18–20
Texworld 7/13–15
July 16
Cover: Fashion
Mid–Year Financial Review
Surf Report
Finance Advertorial
Lingerie Special Section
Bonus Distribution
California Gift Show 7/13–19
LA Gift & Home Market 7/13–19
July 23
Cover: Miami Swim Wrap
Technology
Swim Special Section
Made in America
Tags & Labels Advertorial
Bonus Distribution
AccessoriesTheShow/FAME/
Moda Manhattan 8/1–3
Curve NY 8/1–3
Agenda 8/4–5
July 30
Cover: Market Must Buys
New Resources
Spot Check
To reserve space call Terry Martinez
213-627-3737
www.apparelnews.net
Supply Chain Special Section
Eco Special Section
Industry Focus: Finance
Fashion Advertorial
Bonus Distribution
West Coast Trend Show 7/31–8/2
Direction 8/3–4
Kingpins 8/3–4
Outdoor Retailer 8/3–6
Agenda 8/4–5
Chicago StyleMax 8/7–10
Brighte Companies 8/9–11
LA Fashion Market 8/8–11
Designers & Agents 8/9–11
AccessoriesTheShow/Las Vegas
8/16–18
CurveNV 8/16–18
ENK Vegas 8/16–18
WWIN 8/16–19
Sourcing@MAGIC 8/16–19
FN Platform 8/17–19
ISAM 8/17–19
MAGIC 8/17–19
POOL 8/17–19
Project 8/17–19
WWDMAGIC 8/17–19
tures used in washing and treating jeans.
As recently as April, Dow Fiber Solutions
was announcing collaborations with a variety
of brands. The latest collaboration was
with United Kingdom–based brand Alexandra,
which planned to release a collection of
workwear made of fabrics using XLA.
XLA will fulfill final orders placed by customers
before shutting down the XLA factory,
which is located in Tarragona, Spain. “We
will take every reasonable step to minimize
any disruption to our customers’ business and
to support their final product-supply requirements
as they plan to transition their current
business with XLA to suitable alternative materials,”
Bentley said. Both DFS and the XLA
factory will cease all operations in the third
quarter of 2010.—Erin Barajas
Billabong Buys
Canadian Retailer
Surf label Billabong International Ltd.
announced June 30 that it would purchase
its Canadian retail partner, West 49 Inc.
Billabong closed the deal at $99 million
(Canadian) for West 49 Inc.’s 138 boutiques.
The Burlington, Ontario–based chain maintains
a fleet of stores under several nameplates,
which include West 49, D-Tox, Amnesia/Arsenic,
Off The Wall and Billabong. The deal
will increase the availability and the penetration
of Billabong brands in Canada and also
will increase the opportunity to expand West
49, according to a Billabong statement.
West 49 will remain a multi-brand retailer.
The store’s core management, including
Chief Executive Sam Baio, will remain in
their positions, the statement said. West 49’s
board of directors unanimously approved
the acquisition, and the sale is expected to
be completed in September.
The West 49 Inc. acquisition is just the latest
in a buying spree by Billabong, an Australian
company that maintains an American
division, Billabong North America, which
is based in Irvine, Calif.
In May, Billabong acquired Becker Surf &
Sport, a core-surf boutique chain based in Hermosa
Beach, Calif. In November 2009, it acquired
San Clemente, Calif.–based e-commerce
boutique Swell (www.swell.com). In 2008, the
company purchased East Coast surf retailer
Quiet Flight. It also owns surf and skate brands
Plan B, Element, Custom, Nixon, Da Kine,
Xcel and Honolua Surf Co. The company is
also widely rumored to be wrapping up a deal
to purchase the influential Costa Mesa, Calif.–
based fashion label RVCA, although a Billabong
representative did not respond to a request
for comment on the matter.—Andrew Asch
Corrections and Clarifications
In a June 25 story about Pacific Sunwear,
one of the company’s new executives
was incorrectly identified. PacSun’s vice
president of marketing is Robert Cameron.
WEEK
IN REVIEW
National
Nordstrom Rack on the move. Seattle-based
boutique retailer Nordstrom is
opening new Nordstrom Rack stores in
Cherry Hill, N.J., and Arlington, Texas,
in early 2011. The 36,000-squarefoot
New Jersey store will open at
Towne Place at Garden State Park. The
31,673-square-foot Texas store will
open at The Parks at Arlington mall.
Macy’s moms-to-be. Philadelphiabased
Destination Maternity Corp. and
Cincinnati-based Macy’s Inc. are expanding
their maternity-apparel leaseddepartment
relationship. Currently,
there are 113 Destination Maternity
departments in Macy’s stores around
the country. By March 2011, more
than 500 additional Macy’s stores will
feature Destination Maternity departments.
The maternity departments carry
a mix of Destination Maternity brands,
including Motherhood Maternity and A
Pea in the Pod.
A&F resurrects the catalog. The Abercrombie
& Fitch catalog is back. Discontinued
in 2003, the A&F Quarterly
drew as many fans as foes thanks to
steamy photography by Bruce Weber of
well-formed and scantily clad teens. The
new Quarterly will bow on July 17 and
sell for $10 on the retailer’s website.
Britney designs for Candie’s. Pop
star Britney Spears will add “designer”
to her résumé with a limited-edition
Back-to-School collection for Candie’s,
the juniors label owned by New
York–based Iconix. The Britney for
Candie’s collection will include apparel,
handbags and jewelry and will be
exclusively available at Kohl’s department
stores.
Survey says: Fashion sells. Consumers
who describe themselves as “fashion
forward” may be small in number,
but they make up for it in spending, according
to a new Retail Consumer Dynamics
Study released by Little Rock,
Ark.–based Acxiom. The study found
that half of all consumers surveyed described
themselves as “value-driven,”
while 24 percent said they are “conservative/traditional.”
A mere 16 percent
described themselves as “fashion forward,”
meaning they look for the newest
trends and styles. But these trendfocused
consumers said they spend,
on average, 1.7 times as much as the
conservative shoppers and 2.7 times
as much as those who call themselves
“value-driven.”
Quote of the week
Two years is suddenly an
eternity in fashion, and the
economic crisis has made
everyone, retailers and designers,
extremely competitive.
The most sophisticated talents
now know that they can’t exist
without the mainstream. Cool
is a ghetto.
—Journalist Cathy Horyn in the New York
Times’ coverage of the Paris men’s shows

FEATURE
Ever Founder Melds Charity and Art for New Project
By Erin Barajas Manufacturing Editor
A vagabond himself, Ever founder Jason Bleick gravitated
to Dan Eldon, a young photojournalist, humanitarian
and traveler who was killed in 1993 during a violent protest
in Somalia. In 1997, Eldon’s family and Chronicle Books
published “The Journey Is the Destination: The Journals
of Dan Eldon,” a compilation of Eldon’s personal photographs,
collage art and journal musings. That book was
Bleick’s introduction to Eldon and served as a long-time
source of inspiration. “It is one of the few books I always
keep around and revisit again and again,” Bleick said. El-
EVER CLEVER: Jason Bleick (seen here in his Topanga Canyon
teepee) designs The Dan Eldon Project when he’s not working on
Ever, his line of cool basics for the chic traveler.
Northern California Continued from page 1
most recent show because of concerns over a slow economic
recovery, said Fred Wells, owner of Los Angeles–based
showroom Wells Apparel Group.
“The economy is like a freight train,” Wells said. “It is on
the right track, but it’s not moving as fast as we’d like.”
Wells’ assessment echoed the sales performance of many
retailers across the United
States. The International
Council of Shopping
Centers noted that retail
sales for the week ending
June 26 increased 2.1
percent compared with the
previous week. Warmer
weather drove increased
demand for fashion. However,
the recovery has been
uneven, and many specialty
retailers reported sales
declines in May.
The halting nature
of the recovery affected
many retailers’ budgets,
said Don Reichman of Los
Angeles–based showroom
Reichman Associates.
“It’s slower than we’d
BIG SALES: Don Reichman of Los Angeles–based Reichman
Associates, in the middle, said business was slower than expected
at Fashion Market Northern California, but some retailers were still
making big orders.
thought it would be. But we are opening new accounts,” he
said. Some retailers were bullish and making $20,000 orders,
according to Reichman.
More than 40 percent of retailers were taking orders for
Immediate deliveries, said Lynne Andresevic of the Crayola
Sisters showroom, which maintains offices in Los Angeles
and the San Francisco Bay area. Immediates deliveries typi-
don’s humanitarian spirit also inspired Bleick. “I’ve always
wanted to get involved with a good cause but just have
never done it.”
This made the phone call he received from Kathy Eldon,
Dan’s mother, so intriguing. The Dan Eldon Foundation,
which was started by Eldon’s family to support and educate
“creative activists” who use media and the arts to create
positive change, was in the market for a creative director to
help launch a new
apparel venture.
Bleick, of course,
signed on. “I’ve
been a fan of his
work forever. I
had to do it,” he
said.
The Dan Eldon
Project,
a collection of
high-end T-shirts
for men and
women designed
by Bleick, debuts
for Fall 2010. The
collection features
Eldon’s art,
and all proceeds
will benefit the
Dan Eldon Foundation.
Made in
Los Angeles, the
T-shirts will launch with very limited distribution. “We’re
shooting for the top 20 to 25 stores in the country, with some
international distribution,” Bleick said.
The collection features two silhouettes for guys and one
oversize silhouette for women. Wholesaling for approximately
$30, the T-shirts will retail in stores such as Fred
Segal, American Rag, Barneys New York, Barneys Japan
and Confederacy. Specialty retailers are key to the success
of the Dan Eldon Project, Bleick said “These retailers
understand the project, and they want to be involved,” he
said. “Their [shoppers] are the ones with the disposable income,
and their staff are able to educate [shoppers] about
cally arrive in stores a month or two after the initial ordering.
They are made by retailers who do not want to take a
risk on fashions that will not arrive in stores until five to six
months later. Andresevic also noted many boutiques wanted
deliveries that were faster than Immediate.
“People are saying, ‘What do you have hanging?’” Andresevic
said of stock in her showroom. “It shows that they
have not been buying enough.”
Many boutiques shopping the show have more than two
decades of business and service behind them. The Meyer-
Bunje boutique has been serving Burlingame, Calif., since
the mid-1980s. The Hat Company of Santa Cruz and
Dark Garden of San Francisco also have been doing business
for more than 20 years.
Other boutiques shopping the show were Cotton Party
GETTING BETTER: Renée Cohen of Los Angeles–based Renée
Cohen Sales, pictured right, said her business would increase more
than 30 percent compared with her June 2009 business at Fashion
Market Northern California.
the brand.” Each T-shirt will include an educational hangtag
about Eldon and the work of the Dan Eldon Foundation.
Strung through the hangtags will be beaded bracelets.
“They’re like a badge or symbol that you’ve helped,” Bleick
said. “We hope to eventually see a ton of people walking
around with beaded bracelets on.”
Bleick, who has access to approximately 37,000 images
of Eldon’s art and photography, said designing the
collection is both
a challenge and an
inspiration. “Dan’s
art lends itself to Tshirt
graphics very
well. My job is to
choose the right images,”
he said. Some
of Eldon’s art and
photos are youthful
and playful—perfect
fodder for T-shirts.
But some of them
are darker and more
controversial—one
photo depicts an infamous
killer, others
show famine, death
and war. Finding
the balance can be
difficult but speaks
to the allure of Eldon’s
story. “My
job and responsibility is to educate. Dan is an inspiration
for all of us to be creative activists, and through the Dan
Eldon Project, people can support that cause,” Bleick said.
Going forward, Bleick will produce four seasons of T-shirts
per year and could grow the collection to include items such
as hoodies, sweatshirts and long-sleeve T-shirts. Collaborations
are also in the works, with an Ever x Dan Eldon Project
collaboration set to debut in August at the Ever store on
Melrose Boulevard in Los Angeles. Another project, which
is still under wraps, will pair the Dan Eldon Project with a
well-known charity-based fashion company for the Spring
2011 season. ●
Dan Eldon, who died while on assignment in Somalia, helped to expose the country’s
famine in 1992 through his photography, triggering an outpouring of international
aid. The T-shirt line created in his name is meant to educate the public and help fund
“creative activists” to create positive change.
NEWS
of Chico, Calif., and a growing delegation of Oregon shops,
including The Arrangement and Coco Gets Dressed, both
of Portland, Ore., and Bonjour Boutique of Florence, Ore.
Niche retailers offering accessories and gifts reported
doing good business during a year of a choppy economic
recovery. Maria Sentry owns The Hat Company of Santa
Cruz, located in Santa Cruz, Calif. She forecast her 2010
sales could be better than her shop’s 2008 sales, before the
national economy declined.
She credited her store’s recovery
to doing business in
a town filled with tourist
traffic and selling fun accessories
that are relatively
inexpensive. “After the
crash, people still wanted
to buy something,” Sentry
said. “They wanted to buy
something and feel good
about themselves.”
Items selling well at
her store included men’s
fedoras and women’s sunprotective
hats.
For Renée Cohen of Los
Angeles–based Renée Cohen
Sales, the key words to
drive business were novelty,
price and tops. “People
are much more price-conscious up here,” she said. “Sales
were item-driven. And we are selling a lot of tops.” She
forecast her sales would increase more than 30 percent compared
with the same market in 2009. She said the comparison
was easy. “Business was terrible last year,” she said.
The next Fashion Market Northern California is scheduled
for Aug. 28–30. ●
JULY 2–8, 2010 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3

A strike by scores of clerical workers at
the ports of Los Angeles and Long Beach
hasn’t hampered cargo operations at the nation’s
busiest sea complex.
The three-year contract between the office
clerks, part of the International Longshore
and Warehouse Union, and shippers
expired at midnight on June 30.
On July 1, clerks didn’t show up for work
at four terminals at the two ports while about
35 strikers set up picket lines outside one terminal
in Long Beach and four to five terminals
in Los Angeles.
Initially, longshore workers, who belong
to another local, refused to cross the earlymorning
picket lines, but a state labor arbitrator
ruled the clerical unit had bargained
in bad faith and ordered longshore workers
back to work by 8 a.m.
“It had no effect on port operations,” said
Phillip Sanfield, spokesperson for the Port
of Los Angeles. “We are hopeful that the
two sides will get together, bargain in good
faith and come up with something fairly
quickly.”
The Port of Long Beach also saw no disruptions
after the picketers marched outside
the Total Terminals International, used by
Hanjin Shipping Co.
“Our terminals remain open, and they
continue to operate,” said Art Wong, spokesperson
for the Port of Long Beach.
No contract negotiations were scheduled
NEWS
Clerks’ Strike Doesn’t Affect Port Operations
4 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS JULY 2–8, 2010
for July 1 as both sides huddled to figure out
their next step.
Steve Berry is the negotiator for the Harbor
Employers Association, which represents
14 shippers and terminal operators.
John Fageaux is the clerks’ negotiator and
president of the Office Clerical Unit of the
Marine Clerks, Local 63.
The two sides remain divided on terms for
the next three-year contract. The 900 clerks,
who process export bookings for shippers
and terminals, are asking for a 21 percent
raise over three years and guarantees that
technology innovations will not mean their
jobs are outsourced. Currently, their average
salary is $96,600 plus full medical benefits
and four weeks of vacation a year.
The shippers offered a 10 percent increase
in monthly pension payments and protection
from layoffs. But they have pushed to use
new computer programs that would allow
customers to access booking information.
Clerks worry these new programs could lead
to jobs being outsourced.
The two ports are the busiest in the nation
and handle about 40 percent of all cargo
containers coming into the country. But the
economic downturn of the last two years has
greatly affected port traffic. Container traffic
at the Port of Long Beach was down 22 percent
last year from 2008, and it declined 14
percent at the Port of Los Angeles.
—Deborah Belgum
OC Swim Show to Debut in August
Swimwear will return to the runways in
Southern California with the August debut
of the OC Swim Show, a new event that will
showcase Southern California swimwear labels,
including L*Space, Ella Moss, Luxe,
Vitamin A, Becca by Rebecca Virtue, B.
Swim, Lucy Love, Sunsets, Beach Bunny
Swimwear, Indah and Swim Systems.
Produced by production company Studio
Eleven Live, the OC Swim Show will be
held Aug. 12–13 at the St. Regis Monarch
Beach in Dana Point, Calif.
Targeting retail buyers as well as consumers,
the OC Swim Show will include runway
presentations, parties, live entertainment and
a cigar lounge.
Organizers plan to highlight Orange County’s
July 5
Hong Kong Fashion
Week
Hong Kong Convention
and Exhibition Centre
Hong Kong
Through July 8
July 13
CMC Gift & Home Market
California Market Center
Los Angeles
Through July 19
California Gift Show
Los Angeles Convention
Center and L.A. Mart
Los Angeles
Through July 19
Texworld USA
International Apparel
Sourcing
PREFAB
Home Textiles Fabric
Sourcing
Jacob K. Javits Center
New York
Through July 15
Calendar
July 14
Première Vision Preview
Altman Building and
Metropolitan Pavilion
New York
Through July 15
crucial role as a center of the swim industry.
“We have received an excellent response
from industry leaders who view this as a
platform and opportunity to showcase their
lines to Orange County,” said Laurie DiGiovanni,
executive producer of the OC Swim
Show. “It will be a celebration of swimwear,
not just a business show. It will be in a resort
setting, not a stark convention floor.”
The OC Swim Show will come on the heels
of several swim-industry events in Miami Beach,
Fla., including Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week
Swim, set for July 15–19; the Miami Swim-
Show, the Swimwear Association of Florida’s
annual swim trade show, set for July 17–20; and
Salon Allure, a new swimwear trade show that
will also be held July 17–20.—Erin Barajas
July 15
Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Week Swim
The Raleigh Hotel
Miami
Through July 19
July 17
SwimShow
Miami Beach Convention
Center
Miami
Through July 20
Salon Allure
W Hotel
South Beach, Fla.
Through July 20
July 18
MRketNY
Jacob K. Javits
Convention Center
New York
Through July 20
Blue
Designers’ Collective
TMRW
Clean
The Tunnel/La Venue
Through July 20
There’s more
on ApparelNews.net.
For calendar details and
contact information, visit
ApparelNews.net/calendar.
Submissions to the calendar should be faxed to the Calendar Editor at (213) 623-5707. Please include the event’s name, date, time,
location, admission price and contact information. The deadline for calendar submissions is the Tuesday prior to Friday publication.
Inclusion in the calendar is subject to available space and the judgment of the editorial staff.
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Yuan Continued from page 1
supply. Since the beginning of the recession
in 2008, the Chinese yuan has been pegged
to the U.S. dollar, giving it a steady and predictable
value.
Now that is changing. Political pressure
from Western countries that believe the yuan
is undervalued by 20 percent to 40 percent
is pushing the Chinese government to float
the yuan.
Recently, China bowed to U.S. pressure
and let the yuan inch up, moving from 6.82
yuan to the dollar to 6.78. Many believe
more adjustments are on the way, but getting
the kinks out of China’s currency is expected
to be a gradual long-term process.
Pietra Rivioli, a finance and internationalbusiness
professor at Georgetown University
who wrote the book “The Travels of the
T-Shirt in the Global Economy,” believes
China is bowing to political pressure by letting
the yuan fluctuate, but she said it won’t
deviate too much from its current level. “The
appreciation of the yuan has always been so
small and gradual in China because the currency
is so tightly controlled. Even if they do
let it appreciate, it won’t be at market rate,”
she observed.
One advantage of a rising yuan is that
U.S. cotton and other U.S. raw materials
will be cheaper to the Chinese manufacturer.
“China is the largest buyer of U.S. cotton,”
she said. “A stronger currency means cotton
will be at a much more competitive price for
those manufacturers in China.”
Rick Helfenbein, president of Luen Thai
USA, part of a large Hong Kong sourcing
company with factories in China and the
Philippines, said the slight uptick in the yuan
was anticipated and caught no one off guard.
“But the spike in raw-material costs hasn’t
leveled out, and that is more of an issue,” he
said. He has been recommending that clients
buy their raw materials early, looking as
far out as six to nine months to save money.
Cotton prices are expected to decline later
this year after farmers plant more acreage.
Stay the course
Despite the yuan’s fluctuation and rising
raw-material costs, not many companies are
shifting their sourcing away from China. But
if costs keep going up, they should be looking
for other venues. “Manufacturers have
to be conscious that the price of the product
coming out of China is going up,” said
Andrew Tananbaum, president and chief executive
of Capital Business Credit in New
York, which specializes in factoring accounts
Apparel News Group
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Sixty-six years of news,
fashion and information
EXECUTIVE EDITOR
ALISON A. NIEDER
FASHION EDITOR
N. JAYNE SEWARD
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ANDREW ASCH
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JOHN IRWIN
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CONNIE CHO
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DIRECTOR OF SALES AND MARKETING
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ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES
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receivables. “They have to decide at what
point they have to consider other sourcing
locations to mitigate that increased cost.”
The hardest hit will be low-margin manufacturers
who sell to discount chains. One
of those is Topson Downs in Los Angeles,
which does private-label apparel for Wal-
Mart Stores Inc. and Target Corp. The
largest chunk of its production is done in
China, with manufacturing also booked in
Cambodia, Vietnam, Bangladesh, the Philippines,
Central America and Mexico.
“China will continue to be our mainstay,”
said Myrna Grief, Topson Downs’ director
of imports and global compliance, noting
that 30 percent to 40 percent of production
is done there. “Fabric is made there. There is
speed to market, which is really important.
China offers what other countries don’t.”
Even though costs are rising in China,
Topson Downs can’t raise prices to its retailers.
“Retailers are being awfully, awfully
tough,” Grief said. “Other issues have come
up this year, with the price of cotton and the
price of heathery yarns and slub yarns. We
have been hard-pressed to adjust our price as
much as we would like to.”
T-shirt and underwear maker Hanesbrands
is playing down the impact of China’s decision
to float its currency because the North
Carolina–based company sources in a number
of countries. It said a 5 percent change in the
yuan will have just a $1.1 million to $1.5 million
pre-tax effect on company costs in 2011
and an even smaller effect in 2010.
“The competitiveness of our balanced
global supply chain is a key pillar to our
growth strategy,” said Gerald Evans, Hanesbrands’
president of international business
and global supply chain.
Los Angeles designer Sue Wong, who
does all her manufacturing in China, said she
will stay there because China’s skilled workers
can inexpensively fashion her intricate
designs into chic dresses that sell for as little
as $368. However, she will be raising wholesale
price points by as much as 20 percent to
recuperate climbing silk and labor costs.
Second Generation’s Weisberg will keep
much of his production in China even though
he has seen costs rise since the beginning of
the year. He is trying to pass some of those
costs on to retailers, such as JCPenney Co.
Inc., Macy’s Inc., Nordstrom Inc. and Belk
Inc. “There hasn’t been any price inflation
on this level for a long time,” he said, noting
he has been lobbying for wholesale-price
increases. “Sometimes we get the [price] increases,
and sometimes we don’t.” ●
CONTROLLER
JIM PATEL
CREDIT MANAGER
RITA O’CONNOR
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GENERAL MANAGER
MOLLY RHODES
MNM PUBLISHING CORP.:
CO-CEOS
TERI FELLMAN
CARL WERNICKE
PUBLISHER/CHAIRMAN/CEO
MARTIN WERNICKE
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JULY 2–8, 2010 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 5

Position Available
6 Degrees needs dynamic, self motivated &
organized personalities to join our team. We
provide competitive salaries and benefits &
a comfortable working environment.
OUR MISSION STATEMENT
We will continue to provide unique & innovative
products to the marketplace while providing our
employees a happy & healthy work environment
w/an atmosphere which fosters growth & continued
advancement for those who dedicate themselves
to the overall health & profitability of the company.
LINE COORDINATOR
o Manages development process for knit & woven lines.
TECH PACK ENGINEER
o Responsible for compiling all garment details and
preparation of tech packs for costing purposes.
DESIGN ASSISTANT
o Support the design and development process.
o Maintain body book with detailed sketches and pattern
references. Maintain master books for
fabric and trim. Keep computer files organized
and updated for access by team members.
FREELANCE PATTERNMAKERS
o Knit and woven Junior tops and dresses. Flexible
work schedule.
Send resumes to: HR@6degreesclothing.com
Downtown based clothing manufacturer seeking
Import Production Coordinator Supervisor
to place new orders with vendors, negotiate prices
and deliveries, follow-up with accounts and troubleshoot
production issues. Will be responsible for
checking and approving lab dips, tracking deliveries
from China and preparing compliance reports.
Must speak fluent Cantonese and have excellent
communication skills in English. Must have minimum
7 years experience with China based imports.
Traffic Coordinator needed. Must have
minimum 5 years experience, have high
attention to detail and be very organized. Will
be responsible for working with China factories
and tracking shipments through Port and NDC.
Please e-mail resume to
recruiting@ungerfab.com
Senior Textile Stylist/Merchandiser
Well-established Southern California apparel manufac-
turer has excellent opportunity for a creative individual
with 7-10 years textile/merchandising experience, ability
to develop concepts, great print/color sense, and working
knowledge of CAD process from artwork to strike-offs.
Requires ability to provide direction to artists from con-
cept through repeats, technical knowledge of printing,
ability to communicate effectively at all levels, shopping
the market for new trends, working directly with accounts
and their design team, executing trends/ideas into a spe-
cialized market, and ability to develop, execute, and mer-
chandise print line seasonally to meet account deadlines.
Knowledge of Photoshop/Illustrator required; textile pro-
grams and experience with accounts a plus. Competitive
salary and benefits, opportunity to grow, creative profes-
sional environment, state-of-the-art corporate facility and
design studio.
Email resume to apparelfashions@gmail.com.
Production Patternmaker
Well-rounded, highly skilled 1st thru production
������� ������ �� ���� ����������� �����
communication skills & TUKAtech proficient.
Tech Design
Strong knowledge of specs & garment construction.
Excellent communication skills and
proficiency in Illustrator & Excel required.
Please submit resumes to hr@poleci.com
6 6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS JULY 2–8, 2010
Position Available Position Available
Designer
Responsibilities include: Forecast fashion trends
and colors, design and oversee the design of the
product line from concept to final execution. Must
posses exceptional sketching and tech pack skills,
AS or BA Degree from Art and Design College and
must be willing to travel to trade shows. Must have
experience in the contemporary t-shirt, garment
dye and wovens market.
Merchandise Planner
Responsibilities include: planning, forecasting,
and analysis of all categories, from concept to
sell-through, ensuring alignment of merchant plans,
budget, sales forecasts, and other business goals.
The go-to person for all business analytics and
maintains the historical databank. Must posses 2+
years of Merchandise Planning experience, Strong
financial aptitude with in-depth knowledge of
merchandising metrics, assortment planning, and
key performance indicators and drivers in the retail
market place, ability to learn new tools and
systems quickly, and excellent collaboration
and communication skills.
Please send resumes to:
jobs@michaelstars.com
1st thru Production
Patternmakers
We seek highly skilled 1st thru Production
Patternmakers for our Evening and Day Dress
Division. Must have a creative eye for fashion
& able to work with a wide range of fabrications.
Complete knowledge of construction & fit. Exp.
with patternmaking software required, OptiTex
preferred. Fast paced environment. Min. 5 yrs.
exp. Excellent Benefits Package!
Fax resume to:
Attn: Human Resources
(213) 891-2812 or email
hr@absstyle.com
E/O/E
International Cust Serv – Exp w/Freight Forwarders
& Shipping Docs/logistics. Work closely
w/Reps. Coordinate shipments w/warehouse &
freight forwarders. Create packing lists, CO, Comm
Inv. Ability to ensure orders are shipped in accordance
to order requirements. Familiar with Wire
Transfers, DP's and LC's required documents.
Solid working knowledge of Excel, Word, Outlook,
AIMS exp!
Cust Serv - Order processing, ensure orders are
shipped in accordance to terms and del dates –
charge credit cards, factor approvals, communicate
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Shipping Terms. Solid working knowledge of Excel,
Word, Outlook, AIMS exp! EDI exp a big +
Please send resume to hrmanager03@live.com
Missy Designer
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degree in Design with min of 5 yrs exp. In depth
knowledge of Missy market, highly creative,
Sketching ability, fabric/trim sourcing. Computer
proficient plus strong organizational and
communication skills.
Please submit resume via
e-mail:hrdept0000@yahoo.com
Import Manager
Requirements: Exp.in textile industry Detail
oriented & highly organized Can work under
pressure/long hours Long term contract only
Email or fax your resume to
mail@paramounttextile.com fax : 2136226090
Pattern Maker
Patagonia, Inc.
A leader in the outdoor apparel industry and a
Company that is routinely recognized as a top
employer in America is currently seeking a Pattern Maker.
This position will be based out of our Ventura, CA head-
quarters. Responsibilities include, but are not limited to:
assisting Design, Development and the Fit Analyst with the
construction and function of each garment in an effort to
create the best in class products and transforming the de-
sign checklists into computerized prototype patterns and
computer illustrated construction specifications which in-
clude measurement charts that correlate
to the Company’s sizing direction.
Qualified applicants must have a degree in Fashion Design
or the equivalent in industry experience, a min. 5 years of
computerized patternmaking experience, demonstrated
knowledge of sewing construction, marker making and
pattern grading and demonstrates initiative, is conscien-
tious and provides complete follow-through on areas of
responsibility.
To apply, please visit our website at
www.patagonia.com.
Competitive pay and benefits.
EOE.
Technical Designer
Swimwear manufacturer seeking an apparel
technical designer with minimum 3 years
experience, preferably in the swimwear industry.
Must have experience in:
Creating specs
Analyzing & evaluating garment fit and construction
Trouble-shooting garment fit issues
Creating technical packs
Microsoft office (Word, Excel and Outlook)
Sewing construction
Illustrations/sketches
Strong organization and communication skills
Strong attention to detail with capability to meet deadlines
Stronger consideration will be given to candidates who
have experience in:
Adobe illustrator
Photoshop
Pattern making and grading
Please send cover letter and resume to
production@rwdesignsinc.com
Import Production Coordinator
Vernon based Apparel Company looking for a candidate
who is responsible for assigned accounts, to track
approvals for art work, fabrics, trim, color and lab dips,
testing and enter data into T /A charts.
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communicate via email domestically and with
overseas production facilities
� ������� ��������� ��� ������������� �� ������
logistics required
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delivery orders, with attention to detail.
� ������ ��������� ������ �� �������� ����� ������
and MS outlook a must.
E-mail resume to: lhosken@koralind.com or
dlott@koralind.com
Technical Designer
A major private label manufacturer located in West Los
Angeles is looking for a Technical Designer with a min of
5 yrs related exp. Knowledge of various garment constructions
and fabrics is required. Responsibilities include:
Set up and attend fit sessions, submit sample for fit & follow-up.
Work with patternmakers to insure customer fit
and requirements. In charge of import counter "fit" samples
and comments-from 1st fit to T.O.P's. Periodic travel
to private label headquarters. Excellent communication,
organizational and follow-up skills. A fantastic
opportunity and room for growth.
����� ���� ������������
Fax resume 310-237-0634
PRODUCTION MANAGER
Well established Los Angels based sleepwear &
loungewear importer is seeking a detail oriented, well
organized production manager with strong sourcing
ability. Must have at least 10 years related garment
experience. Knowledge of costing in knit + woven
fabrication is a must. Factory experience and fluency in
English/Chinese bilingual is preferable. Travel is required.
Excellent growth potential for the right candidate.
Salary commensurate with experiences. please
email your resume to aitropse@yahoo.com
To place ads: 213-627-3737 Ext. 280 Fax: 213-623-1515 e-mail: jeffery@apparelnews.net

Position Available
DESIGNER
Contemporary Sportswear Company has an
immediate opening for an experienced Designer.
Candidates must have 3 - 5 yrs experience
in wovens, knit tops, sweaters & all sportswear.
Must be energetic, organized and a team player.
Fax resume to:
Attn: Human Resources
(213) 891-2812 or
email hr@absstyle.com
E/O/E
FABRIC WAREHOUSE MANAGER
Immediate opening for an experienced individual to
manage and direct the Piece Goods warehouse opera-
tions. Must have at least 7 yrs. exp. hands on fabric
warehouse management. Responsibilities include
receiving, stocking, and pulling. Issuing and monitoring
cuts and fabric inventory mgmt. Must have a sense of
urgency; work well in faced paced environment,
Knowledge of AS400, vantage point system a must.
Please send or fax or email resume in
confidence to Attn: Human Resources
5815 Smithway Street, Commerce, CA 90040
(213) 417-1031, maryc@wrapper.com
Imports Production Assistant
Able to follow all steps of preparing/sending
tech pks
Knowledge of spec sheets
Proficient in Excel
Good verbal/written communication skills
Fax resume to 323-277-6830 or
email resumes@karenkane.com
FULL CHARGE BOOKKEEPER/
CONTROLLER NEEDED
An established L. A. apparel manufacturer is
looking for a full charge bookkeeper/controller.
Must be able to multitask and take charge.
Experience in the apparel industry is required with
knowledge of inventory and factor accounting a
must. Proficiency in AIMS required. Competitive
salary with bonus for the qualified candidate.
Please email resumes and salary history to:
HR@FWLLP.com
No Phone Calls Please.
Jr. Technical Designer
Women’s Apparel Co. seeks Entry Level Jr. Technical
Designer to start immediately 1-2 yrs of exp. Will support
Tech Team with logging samples, tech packs, schedule
fittings, some vendor communication and tech pack
assistance; proficient in Word/Excel, Illustrator,
some Photoshop
Email resume, portfolio link or
samples of work to HR4599@gmail.com
Email subject line – Jr. Technical Designer
(Entry Level)
First thru Production Pattern Maker
Must have minimum 5-10yrs.experience
with cut & sew knits. Draping required.
Please send resume with salary history
email alex@swornvirgins.com
fax 323/589-9825 attn: Alex
Ask about the
PREMIER JOB OPPORTUNITY
Category Listings for the Web version of your ad
Call: 213-627-3737 Ext. 280
Position Available Position Available
COSTING AND
TECH PACK CANDIDATE
Tempted Apparel, a junior and children's knits
and woven's company seeks an EXPERIENCED
Import costing and tech pack candidate who is
highly motivated, organized and detail oriented.
Must have an understanding of specs and garment
construction and must be experienced with excel,
photo shop and adobe illustrator.
Excellent employee benefit package.
Please fax resume to Attn: H.R.
(323) 859-2499
CUSTOMER SERVICE REP
Premium denim company seeks team player w/
experience in all customer service functions,
including: order processing; allocation; invoicing;
credit memos; and EDI. Must have xlnt communication
skills and be able to multi-task.
Email resume to hr@redenginejeans.com
or fax to 213-742-0716
Temporary Position for a Technical Designer
Responsible for tech paks and multi tasking.
Must have strong computer skills, and knowledge
of garment construction. Temporary position for
the month of July & August 2010.
E-mail: nancyb@citygirl.com
New Fashion Company Located in West Hollywood
looking for Sales Representative. Candidate
will be working from our Office and attendance of
the trade-shows is a must, and better if have an established
customer listings and strong relationships
with major chain and department stores. Spanish
and/or French speaker is a plus.
Email resume to: marketing@anamdesign.com
Asst Shipping Manager
Organized individual w/ leadership qualities. w/3
yrs exp. in whse/shipping. Detailed oriented, accu-
rate & able to move fast. Salary range 30 to 40K.
E-mail res to rachel@theoriginalcult.com
Positions Wanted
DESIGNER, PATTERN MAKER, SAMPLE MAKER
35 Yrs. Exp.
1st thru prod. patterns,
samples, fitting, grading,
sportswear, menswear,
lingerie, Kids, Jr, Missy &
all area. Sketches &
pictures available.
Christin 213-627-9191
FREELANCE
Exp'd 1st/Prod. Computer-
ized Patterns/Marking/
grading srvc. on PAD
System w/ Gerber
converter. Import specs
available. 32 yrs. exp.
Fast/reliable
Ph. 626-792-4022
Advertise your Samplemaker positons here
OneWorld Apparel is seeking a talented and detail
oriented Full-Time Production Patternmaker
with the ability to work in a fast paced environment.
Must be proficient with Gerber, have understanding
of Garment Dye, Shrinkage, and be able to work
closely with Production and Design. Minimum
5 years experience required.
Please e-mail resume to
recruiting@oneworldapparel.com
Pattern Makers
Seeking highly skilled 1st thru production pattern makers,
Gerber sys. a plus. Must have 5-10 yrs. Exp. w/specialty
Gowns, fabric & high quality production.
Sewers
Couture Designer seeking highly skilled sewers. Must
have exp. w/silk chiffon & bias gowns. Min. 5 years exp.
(Sewers call Hector 213-342-3436)
Salary based on experience.
Fax Resume & Salary history to: 213.747.9311
or email: hr@moniquelhuillier.com
Jerry Leigh an apparel company located in Van
Nuys, Ca is currently accepting applications for:
� Knit Designer with 5-7 years of exp. Must be
proficient in Illustrator
� Associate Designer
For confidential consideration, please fax
resume and salary history to: (818) 909-9206
We will contact only those individuals
selected for further consideration.
Established LA women’s apparel manufacturer
has immediate opening for
Bottoms, Skirts, Cargo Pants,
Pants & Legging Designer
Must have extensive experience and be proficient
in Adobe illustrator and Photoshop.
Immediate opening to jobs@eyedeye.coim
FULL CHARGE BOOKKEEPER
Accessories manufacturer is seeking a full charge book-
keeper. Experience requirements include reconciliation
of bank and factor, preparing payroll; closing and prepa-
ration of monthly financial statements using AIMS and
Quickbooks; managing daily/weekly/monthly cash flow.
Supervise accounts payable clerk and order entry/
chargeback clerk. Health benefits offered.
Email resumes only to
lgordon@sjaccounting.com
ACCOUNTS PAYABLE CLERK
Accessories manufacturer is seeking an accounting
clerk. The experience requirements include handling all
aspects of accounts payable purchase order monitoring,
vouchering and payments. Assist with sales order and
data entry. Health benefits offered.
Email resumes only to
lgordon@sjaccounting.com
1st through
Production
Pattern maker
Must have min. 10 years
exp. in Junior Dresses
knits and wovens. Must
have knowledge of Gerber
system and excellent
written communication.
fax 310-440-2535
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JULY 2–8, 2010 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 7

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BUHLER QUALITY YARNS
LAUNCHES :
The EST Yarns that
are stronger, inherently
move moisture & naturally
inhibit the growth of bacteria.
Werner Bieri, President & CEO
wbieri@buhleryarns.com
EAUTIFUL
Fabrics that provide
the ultimate in softness
and comfort.
David Sasso, International Sales
dsasso@buhleryarns.com
CONTACT US
Victor Almeida, Tech. Serv. & Sales
valmeida@buhleryarns.com
A ETTER Footprint with
FSC certified pulp, closed loop
processing, and fibers certified
by the Oeko-Tex ® Standard 100.
Kelly Ouellette, Customer Service
kouellette@buhleryarns.com
Buhler Quality Yarns Corporation 1881 Athens Highway, Jefferson, GA, 30549
office: (706) 367-9834 | fax: (425) 944-2675 | e-mail: sales@buhleryarns.com
www.buhleryarns.com