France September 2017

BON APPÉTIT
RESTAURANT REVIEW
GALVIN BISTROT DE LUXE
BAKER STREET, LONDON
Nestled in the smart streets of Marylebone,
the understated facade of this
restaurant, embellished with neat
shrubbery, hides a chic dining room.
The style is a modern take on classic bistro, all
dark wood, crisp white tablecloths and globe
lighting, with the staff immaculately turned out.
It is a popular destination, due to its location
and the reputation of the Galvin brothers – Chris
and Jeff – who run numerous restaurants in and out
of London. Galvin Bistrot de Luxe was their first venture,
opened in 2005, and has garnered several awards, including
Best French Restaurant for two years and Best Wine List in 2009.
The menu offers a variety of timeless French classics, some
with a British twist, others taking seasonality into account, and
it is hard to find fault with a pleasantly varied prix fixe menu at
a restaurant of this calibre for just £19.95. Nonetheless, my
companion and I decided to go à la carte, with some of the
dishes just too tempting to ignore.
To begin, we both selected the half dozen Herefordshire
snails in garlic butter. It was my first experience of escargots,
and the plump, flavoursome morsels did not disappoint. There
was no risk of rushing our starter, especially with the added
handicap of not being experienced with snail tongs!
As it was a hot day, for my main course I eschewed the
slightly heavier menu options of pork belly and rump of lamb,
in favour of the caramelised duck confit, olive and orange salad
with walnuts. My friend selected one of the excellent range of
vegetarian dishes – grilled aubergine steak with
slow cooked tomato, yoghurt and pea shoots.
Both were delicious and showed a deft hand with
seasonings that really helped the quality of the
ingredients to shine.
A glass of house red for me and white for my friend
balanced the flavours beautifully. I rounded off my meal with
a cheese plate, but sneaked a small taste of my friend’s
tarte Tatin, which was excellent.
The service was attentive but not fussy, and the overall
atmosphere was relaxed and easy-going, making a very pleasant
lunchtime experience.
Lara Dunn
Open for lunch Mon-Sat, 12pm-2.30pm, Sun 12pm-3pm;
dinner Mon-Wed 6pm-10.30pm, Thurs-Sat 6pm-11pm,
Sun 6pm-9.30pm. Three-course prix fixe menus: Lunch £15.50,
dinner £19.50. À la carte mains from £16.50.
66 Baker Street, London W1U 7DJ
Tel: 0207 935 4007,
galvinrestaurants.com/s/4/galvin-bistrot-de-luxe
WINES OF THE MONTH BY SALLY EASTON, MASTER OF WINE
SNAP IT UP
Château La Tulipe de la Garde, Merlot
2014, Bordeaux Supérieur
This wine is blended with a drop of cabernet
sauvignon and cabernet franc which adds
a little spicy bramble and blackcurrant
piquancy to the sweetly soft, round, dark
plum fruits of merlot. Some
months in oak add toastiness
to the flavour. The tannins are
modest and supple in the
warm core, and are sufficient
to warrant some protein to
bring it all together. This is
attractively straightforward
and well-balanced.
Drink with: Barbecue meats.
Sainsbury’s, £9
Tel: 0800 328 1700
sainsburys.co.uk
WEEKEND TREAT
Henry Fessy, Moulin à Vent 2015,
Beaujolais
Of the ten Beaujolais Crus, Moulin à Vent is
one of the most full bodied and ageworthy,
and this one fits that bill. A ripe, sunny
vintage has, additionally, helped to give
a smooth, fine grain to the
integrated tannins, and a hint of
raisin character. This is a serious,
structured wine with a density of
sweet, baked, black cherries,
berries and blackcurrants, and
a core of acid freshness running
through it.
Drink with: Duck in cherry sauce.
The Vineyard, £15.25
Tel: 01706 822 213
(orders by phone)
thevineyardwineshop.co.uk
TIME TO CELEBRATE
Domaine Samuel Billaud, Premier Cru
Séchet, Vieilles Vignes 2015, Chablis
This is textbook, steely chablis of super
concentration and precision, with
60-year-old vines in limestone soil adding
their own degree of balance and density.
This wine is concentrated and plush in the
strict, linear, crisp profile of
high-quality Chablis, and has
a sophisticated saline note. Meal
and stony character appear in
a smooth, fine-cream texture
amid flavours of peach, citrus
pith and cobnut-cream.
Drink with: Chicken in creamy
mushroom sauce.
Wine Society, £25
Tel: 01438 741 177
thewinesociety.com
www.completefrance.com FRANCE MAGAZINE 79