France September 2017

BON APPÈTIT
PHOTOGRAPHS: DOMINIC RIPPON
Despite its impressive heritage and unique
character, muscat has fallen out of fashion in France
and abroad, along with the sweet wines for which it
is best known. Winemakers have responded by
producing drier styles, with vibrant, floral aromatics
and a lightness of body that have proved popular
with younger wine drinkers. Even Domaine de
Barroubio, the most important producer of sweet
Muscat de Saint-Jean-de-Minervois, is increasingly
well known for its delicate dry Muscat Sec, bottled
as IGP Pays d’Oc.
Late-harvest wines
In the opposite corner of l’Hexagone, in Alsace,
muscat is one of the four ‘noble’ varieties – along
with riesling, pinot gris and gewürztraminer –
allowed for the production of Grand Cru wines.
Muscat blanc à petits grains is joined in the vineyard
by its earlier-ripening offspring muscat ottonel,
although blending of the two varieties is, curiously,
not permitted in most Grand Cru wines.
In contrast to its traditional vocation in the south,
Muscat d’Alsace is often a dry or off-dry wine,
although it is also used to make vendanges tardives,
or late-harvest, wines. Muscat was the first
documented variety in Alsace, probably introduced
by the Romans in ancient Gaul, but it is still viewed
by many as a poor cousin of the other ‘noble’
grapes, and rarely commands the same premium as
the top rieslings or gewürztraminers.
Back in the south, Raymond Miquel of Domaine
de Barroubio is convinced that the traditional sweet
muscats of Languedoc-Roussillon have a bright
future. To demonstrate their potential, he invited
sommeliers and journalists to his estate in the hamlet
of Barroubio, near Saint-Jean-de-Minervois.
He had prepared a ‘vertical’ tasting of old
vintages of Muscat de Saint-Jean-de-Minervois,
6
OF THE BEST FRENCH MUSCATS
Muscat de Saint-Jean-de-
Minervois ‘Cuvée Classique’
Domaine de Barroubio
barroubio.fr
An uncommonly elegant sweet vin
doux naturel, which shows aromas
of lychee and grapes in youth,
developing complex marmalade,
caramel and hazelnut aromas as
it ages in bottle.
Muscat de Rivesaltes
Domaine Cazes
cazes-rivesaltes.com
A floral nose, with hints of ripe
citrus fruit; on the palate, the
wine’s natural sweetness is
balanced by menthol notes and
a seasoning of spice.
Funambulles, vin mousseux
Domaine du Mas Rouge
domainedumasrouge.com
An unusual sparkling muscat, made
by a producer of traditional
fortified Muscat de Mireval.
It shows all the lychee and grape
aromas of young muscat; its
freshness accentuated by the
bubbles. A delicious aperitif wine.
beginning with 2005 and going back to 1990.
At an average altitude of 300 metres, the
appellation’s vineyards are planted on a remote
limestone plateau, giving wines that are high in
sugar, but which keep an uncommon freshness,
even in warm years. In their youth, aromas of lychee
and grapes are frequently joined by lemon zest
and pear; and as the wines age, marmalade and
caramel begin to appear, finally replaced by
hazelnuts and mocha.
Guests discussed the relative merits of the
different vintages – from the uncommon elegance of
the 2003, despite the torrid heat of the growing
season, to the developed aromas of figs, spice and
oloroso sherry in the 1993 – as the final bites of
tapas were polished off.
Raymond had a final surprise in store, in the
form of a clear grape spirit, or eau de vie, distilled
from muscat blanc à petits grains.
The variety’s aromas of fresh grapes
had survived the distillation, giving
an unusually distinctive, floral spirit:
a refreshing way to round off an
enlightening tasting.
Muscat de Frontignan
‘Vendange d’Automne’
Château de la Peyrade
commerce.chateaulapeyrade.com
An oak-aged vin doux naturel that
ferments slowly for eight months
before grape spirit is added.
A spicy vanilla-laced nose,
with flavours of dried apricot
and orange peel.
Muscat d’Alsace
Domaine Haegi
haegi.fr
A blend of 80 per cent muscat
FACING PAGE:
Vineyards in the
Muscat de Saint-
Jean-de-Minervois
appellation;
BELOW: Vigneron
Raymond Miquel
(standing) with guests
at the tasting at
Domaine de Barroubio;
INSET: Vintages at
the tasting went
back to 1990
ottonel with 20 per cent muscat
blanc à petits grains, with white
flower aromas and fresh, crunchy
fruits on the palate, complemented
by a hint of spice on a lingering,
dry finish.
Muscat Sec
IGP Côtes de Thongue
Domaine Saint-Georges d’Ibry
saintgeorgesdibry.com
Rose petal and lychee aromas, with
mango and apricot appearing on
the palate. A delicious dry muscat
from the vineyards near Béziers.
www.completefrance.com FRANCE MAGAZINE 85