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Palazzo de'Rossi - Una storia pistoiese

a cura di Roberto Cadonici fotografie di Aurelio Amendola

a cura di Roberto Cadonici
fotografie di Aurelio Amendola

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8. Palazzo de’ Rossi, salone, decorazione ‘all’antica’ con testa di guerriero raffigurante Grandonio entro cornice ovale, affresco

monocromo nel sovrapporta dell’accesso assiale al ballatoio. Luigi Ra fanelli, 1794.

6. Pistoia, Canto dei Rossi, scultura in serpentino del

tardo sec. XII, ritenuta il ritratto di Grando nio, antico eroe

cittadino ascritto alla famiglia dei Rossi.

7. Sistemazione tardo-settecentesca della “testa di Grandonio”, al Canto dei Rossi, affiancata da due stemmi in pietra

trecenteschi della famiglia dei Rossi.

La figura, vera e propria metafora visiva del riferirsi all’illustre personaggio del passato da parte

dei supposti suoi discendenti, era il punto focale della “prospettiva” che si apriva dall’ingresso

sulla strada, a portone aperto: quasi indicandone, significativamente, l’asse principale 16 (fig. 9).

Ma il canonico Tommaso volle anche, nel mentre si occupava della costruzione e della decorazione,

nel 1793-1794, del salone d’onore, enfatizzare la ‘presenza’ in quel luogo di quell’eroe

cittadino che dava lustro al suo casato, nel contemporaneo rifacimento, con aspetto più dignitoso,

delle due facciate della “casa vecchia” posta al “Canto de’ Rossi”.

Egli fece disporre proprio sull’angolo, entro un piccolo incasso, un importante reperto scultoreo

del tardo secolo XII, conservatosi fino ad allora sul fronte esterno di quel vetusto

casamento 17 (fig. 6).

9. Statua di Grandonio in terracotta dipinta, entro la nicchia

dell’esedra esistente sul retro del palaz zo, un tempo adibito a

giardino. Anonimo scultore locale, 1802.

But a different urban location was preferred for the construction of the new residence. It was

a site near the medieval Porta Sant’Andrea, where in the 13th century the Rossi possessed

some tower-houses, on the narrow street that led into the oldest part of the city and all

around the crossroads. The place had been the theater of important historical events and

was also linked to fabled memories of a distant past connected with Roman antiquity and the

origins of Pistoia (fig. 5). 9

The foundations of the Rossi family’s houses that faced onto that street lay in ground filled

with imposing remains of ancient keeps and fortifications, which were brought to light during

the construction of the palazzo, along with several anticaglie or “curiosities.” 10 Those houses had

seen the birth—it was believed—of Grandonio, the legendary and gigantic hero of the family

who had lived at the beginning of the 12th century and was considered a shining example of

the valor in war shown by the oldest members of the family and evidence of its importance for

the whole city. 11 To the point of his portrait being placed on display in the Palazzo Comunale,

or City Hall, as a special mark of honor (fig. 4). 12 At the time the powerful head carved out of

serpentine, with an intense, enigmatic expression, that can still be seen today at the crossroads

called the “Canto de’ Rossi” was commonly thought to be his portrait. 13

In an age in which quarterings of nobility depended on the antiquity and prestige of ancestors,

that location had for the members of the Rossi family, as its original residence and the place

where Grandonio was believed to have been born, sufficient attractions to outweigh the

undoubted disadvantages related to the “visibility” of the building to be constructed, as was

pointed out at the beginning. That this was the leitmotiv that would characterize the new

residence is demonstrated by the appearance of Grandonio’s image at some of the most

significant points of the building and its annexes.

It is present, in the form of a “heroic” head, among the ornaments painted by the Pistoian

artist Luigi Rafanelli in the main hall, completed by the canon primicerius Tommaso dei

Rossi between 1793 and 1794 (fig. 8). 14

A more than life-size painted terracotta statue of Grandonio, in the guise of an ancient Roman

warrior, still stands solemnly in the niche of an exedra faced with blocks of tuff that was the

principal ornament of the new garden, laid out at the rear of the building in 1802. 15 The figure, a

true visual metaphor of the reference to the illustrious personage of the past on the part of his

supposed descendants, was the focal point of the “perspective” that unfolded from the entrance

onto the street, with the door open: almost indicating, significantly, the main axis (fig. 9). 16

But Canon Tommaso, while engaged in the construction and decoration of the main hall in

1793-94, also wanted to emphasize the “presence” of the hero who brought prestige to his

stock in that place, in the contemporary reconstruction, with a more dignified appearance,

of the two façades of the “old house” located at the “Canto de’ Rossi.”

He had an important piece of sculpture from the 12th century, up until then located on the

outer front of that old building, placed on the corner, inside a small recess (fig. 6). 17

It is the finest and most expressive of the so-called “black heads” that can still be seen in

Pistoia: it was given a variety of identities by the local scholars of the 17th-18th century, but

considered a portrait of Grandonio by the memorialists of the Rossi family. 18 At the time a

14th-century stone coat of arms of the Rossi family, in the form of a shield, was placed on

each side of that head sculpted in serpentine, on the converging walls; on the main façade,

facing onto the street that is named after the Rossi, the emblem at the corner served to

complete, along with its counterpart located symmetrically on the right, another “display” in

which the shield of the House of Anjou was located at the center (fig. 7). 19

This medieval panoply served to convey immediately to the passerby and the “foreigner”

how ancient and illustrious was the family whose new residence stood alongside the old one

at the “Canto de’ Rossi.”

Raffaello Ulivi’s Design and the Beginning of the Construction

The credit for having gathered all the family memories, records and documents that served

to outline the history of the construction of the new building must go to Canon Tommaso dei

34 35

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