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Tiger of many stripes - International Film Festival Rotterdam

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mieke’s tips<br />

Haven’t left De Doelen in ten days? All filmed out? Here’s local celebrity Mieke van der<br />

Linden’s tips on what to do this weekend in <strong>Rotterdam</strong>. For addresses and Mieke’s best<br />

restaurant guide, please see Mieke’s tips on the English section <strong>of</strong> the IFFR webite at:<br />

www.filmfestivalrotterdam.com<br />

Witte de Withstraat<br />

Rumour has it that the new IFFR <strong>of</strong>fices<br />

will open next festival on Witte<br />

de Withstraat, in the building <strong>of</strong> the<br />

National Photo Museum, which will<br />

move to the South Bank, to the Las<br />

Palmas building.<br />

Witte de Withstraat used to be a street<br />

full <strong>of</strong> bad discos, sleazy bars and cafés.<br />

Not any more! Take a stroll starting<br />

from the Museum Park and you will be<br />

surprised by the number <strong>of</strong> interesting<br />

shops, galleries and restaurants. It may<br />

sound like total gentrification has taken<br />

place in this one-time dodgy street. Not<br />

so! You can still eat and hang out till the<br />

early morning in Café De Witte Aap (no.<br />

78), for instance; old journalists haunt<br />

De Schouw (no. 80); head to Bar P (no.<br />

96) for cocktails and hit the De Nacht<br />

Chinees for late-night noodles and fun.<br />

Some great shops have also opened here<br />

in the last few years. For great Dutch<br />

designer shoes try Dorine Christ (no. 77a)<br />

and Betsy Palmer (no. 9a). Breek-Baar<br />

deals in glass and porcelain (no. 68a). An<br />

old favourite with both housewives and<br />

gay interior decorators is Dirkx for overthe-top<br />

decor. You can find the ultimate<br />

Food, glorious food!<br />

Tired <strong>of</strong> all that healthy veggie<br />

grub on <strong>of</strong>fer at various IFFR locations?<br />

Why not do a little bit <strong>of</strong><br />

slumming in the land <strong>of</strong> junk food?<br />

Holland is famous for its very<br />

weird snacks and great variety.<br />

Stroll to the king <strong>of</strong> snacks and<br />

fries, Bram Ladage, opposite IFFR’s<br />

HQ De Doelen and order as the<br />

people from <strong>Rotterdam</strong> do.<br />

Take the berenklauw(bear claw),<br />

for instance, which consists <strong>of</strong><br />

More food<br />

deep-fried sliced meatball, onion<br />

rings, and (sometimes) pineapple<br />

on a stick, liberally drenched in<br />

peanut sauce, <strong>of</strong> course.<br />

Leave it to the Dutch to create<br />

their own gigantic version <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Asian spring roll, the loempia. Ask<br />

for the kip loempia and add lots <strong>of</strong><br />

sambal (hot pepper sauce).<br />

Or how about the bamihap? This<br />

basically consists <strong>of</strong> a lump <strong>of</strong><br />

deep-fried bami goreng, an In-<br />

What if you want to eat real food, made by real chefs?<br />

<strong>Rotterdam</strong> is blessed with some really good restaurants.<br />

Here are some <strong>of</strong> my favourites:<br />

Best pizza<br />

Angelo Betti, Schiekade 6A<br />

Famous for its interior and the lovely Betti family; but<br />

most <strong>of</strong> all because <strong>of</strong> the pizzas. The pizzeria was recently<br />

taken over by Bruno Guntolli, film school graduate<br />

in production design and regular guest in IFFR’s Wilfried<br />

de Jong’s Late Show.<br />

Best Chinese<br />

Asian Glories, Leeuwenstraat 15<br />

Here the lovely Jenny Fan Loh takes care <strong>of</strong> the front <strong>of</strong><br />

the house and husband Shun Po Fan is the boss in the<br />

kitchen.<br />

Try the duck wrapped in pancakes with cucumber, spring<br />

onions and plum sauce. Best dim sum in town. Something<br />

that Hong Kong star Jacky Chan discovered when he was<br />

making a film in <strong>Rotterdam</strong>! He became a regular.<br />

Best French brasserie food<br />

Louis, Nieuwe Binnenweg 151<br />

Proprietress Geertje has recently opened this classic<br />

brasserie. She has put evergreens such as oeuf mayonnaise,<br />

onion soup and pepper steak on the menu. Within<br />

weeks it’s become a great favourite with people who<br />

want to go back to basics, food-wise. No reservations<br />

possible. Just turn up around 18:30 and you’re in!<br />

Best lunch<br />

Nostra, Van Oldenbarneveldtstraat 127a<br />

Run by a few handsome gay guys, this place is always<br />

busy at lunch time. Not surprising once you’ve sampled<br />

their wild spinach salad or club sandwich. They also serve<br />

special teas at your request with cakes, scones, jam and<br />

clotted cream. Mmm!<br />

And if you really want to splash out<br />

- Zeezout for great fish, Westerkade 11B<br />

- Zwetheul for starry Michelin heaven, <strong>Rotterdam</strong>seweg<br />

480<br />

- De Engel for tv chef Herman den Blijker’s famous truffle<br />

soup, Eendrachtsweg 19<br />

- La Vilette for trying, West Blaak 160<br />

in power lingerie at Marlies Dekkers’<br />

flagship store (no. 2). Sometimes you can<br />

catch the designer having c<strong>of</strong>fee at The<br />

Bazar (no. 16), the hotel/restaurant all<br />

<strong>Rotterdam</strong>mers love.<br />

More good food and great ambiance can<br />

be found at Restaurant Oliva (no. 15a),<br />

they serve great, imaginative Italian<br />

nosh, and if you’re worried about the<br />

Middle East why not try the Bagel Bakery<br />

(Schilderstraat 57a) where Jewish and<br />

Arab dishes are served in harmony.<br />

See Mieke’s tips online for more details.<br />

donisian noodle classic. The hotter<br />

the better.<br />

Holland being the land <strong>of</strong> cheese,<br />

the kaassoufflé definitely deserve<br />

a place on this list <strong>of</strong> faves. A<br />

piece <strong>of</strong> Gouda cheese wrapped<br />

in dough gets thrown into hot oil<br />

until the cheese has melted. Most<br />

Dutchies add mustard or peanut<br />

sauce.<br />

Recently a new multi-culti snack<br />

has come onto the scene through<br />

One <strong>of</strong> the best street<br />

markets in Holland is<br />

right here in <strong>Rotterdam</strong>.<br />

Every Tuesday and<br />

Saturday, people flock to<br />

the Centrummarkt in the<br />

heart <strong>of</strong> <strong>Rotterdam</strong>. You<br />

can easily spend a day<br />

there without getting<br />

bored.<br />

A good start is the flea<br />

market at De Meent.<br />

This is where you find a<br />

mix <strong>of</strong> antiques, books<br />

and stuff that has fallen<br />

<strong>of</strong>f a truck. Don’t miss<br />

Cynthia’s dead cheap<br />

vintage clothing stall or<br />

the guy with beautiful<br />

Every festival it’s the<br />

same old song. Halfway<br />

through, visitors become<br />

tired <strong>of</strong> all those films,<br />

people and alcohol-filled<br />

late nights.<br />

One <strong>of</strong> the best ways to<br />

get things into perspective<br />

again is to spend<br />

some time at the remarkable<br />

<strong>Rotterdam</strong> Zoo<br />

Blijdorp.<br />

Designed by architect<br />

Sybold van Ravensteyn<br />

after the old zoo was hit<br />

by German bombs in May<br />

1940, Blijdorp is a great<br />

favourite with the people<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>Rotterdam</strong>.<br />

The beauty <strong>of</strong> the architecture<br />

<strong>of</strong> Diergaarde<br />

Blijdorp has not gone unnoticed<br />

by IFFR regulars:<br />

Peter Greenaway’s film A<br />

ZED AND TWO NOUGHTS<br />

antique silverware.<br />

Now move on to the<br />

regular market, toward<br />

Station Blaak, and you<br />

will get caught up in a<br />

mix <strong>of</strong> Chinese, Polish,<br />

Suriname, Pakistani,<br />

Turkish, Moroccan and<br />

Dutch voices and products:<br />

clothes, fruit & vegetables,<br />

handbags, fresh<br />

fish, bed linen, flowers,<br />

haberdashery, etc.<br />

After shopping, head to<br />

Mariniersweg 259 for<br />

one <strong>of</strong> my favourite lunch<br />

places: Proef! This lovely<br />

place is run by food-designer<br />

Marije Vogelzang.<br />

was set there, and the<br />

old Riviera Hall on the<br />

Blijdorp complex is where<br />

the first director <strong>of</strong> the<br />

IFFR, Hubert Bals, organised<br />

his film parliament.<br />

But watching the animals<br />

Mieke van der Linden<br />

the Moroccan and<br />

Turkish shoarma<br />

places: it’s called De Kapsalon (the<br />

hairdresser). A cholesterol bomb if<br />

I ever saw one, it’s a medium-sized<br />

mountain <strong>of</strong> fried shoarma meat,<br />

with a generous helping <strong>of</strong> fries,<br />

cheese and garlic sauce piled on<br />

top. This is where the Mediterranean<br />

meets the North. Talk about<br />

integration, and in a snackbar no<br />

less!<br />

A day at the market<br />

The Zoo<br />

Go for a Proefplankje<br />

and a great cappuccino.<br />

Best time to stroll back<br />

to De Meent is when the<br />

stall-keepers begin to<br />

pack up. This is the time<br />

they all start playing<br />

their own music, from<br />

Moroccan Rai to Punjabi<br />

pop. Take the vegetable<br />

market next to the flea<br />

market. Towards the end<br />

you will find the pineapple<br />

man, Mr Koedam.<br />

Within 30 seconds he<br />

will cut you a fresh pineapple.<br />

Eat it there and<br />

then.<br />

Mmmmmmmmm!<br />

should be your main<br />

goal if you really want to<br />

unwind. Old favourites <strong>of</strong><br />

ours are the wolves, the<br />

very weird looking green<br />

morays at the spectacular<br />

newly built Oceanium,<br />

A bit <strong>of</strong> retail<br />

therapy...<br />

How about a little shopping after a<br />

morning taking in films? <strong>Rotterdam</strong><br />

is a city full <strong>of</strong> surprises; not the most<br />

glamorous town you can imagine, but<br />

paradise for people who are bored with<br />

Tommy H., Ralph L. and all those other<br />

big brand boys.<br />

Right near the Lantaren/Venster in<br />

the Gouvernestraat, for instance, you<br />

can find Mar’s delightful secondhand<br />

bookstore, De Boekenbuuv. A corner<br />

shop crammed with secondhand books,<br />

comic strips, posters, rock ‘n’ roll Tshirts<br />

and 7” singles by the latest British<br />

bands.<br />

De Boekenbuuv is a real ‘hot spot’ in<br />

the neighbourhood. You will always<br />

find interesting books, talkative customers<br />

and c<strong>of</strong>fee there, and you can<br />

browse for as long as you like. We recently<br />

found Chairman Mao’s Little Red<br />

Book on its shelves for one euro! It also<br />

has great children’s classics, an extensive<br />

foreign section and antique sports<br />

books: and it’s all cheeeeeeaaaaap!!<br />

For opening times,<br />

call 0031 6 24564991.<br />

See <strong>Rotterdam</strong>’s other <strong>Tiger</strong> in Blijdorp Zoo Photo: md7<br />

and the cheeky meerkats.<br />

Make sure to use the old<br />

Riviera Hall entrance to<br />

take in Van Ravensteyn’s<br />

style in full. The best<br />

times to go are very early<br />

or late at night. To get<br />

36 th <strong>International</strong> <strong>Film</strong> <strong>Festival</strong> <strong>Rotterdam</strong><br />

there, take bus 44 or 49<br />

from Central Station, or<br />

alternatively, walk from<br />

Central Station, Blijdorp<br />

side – it takes about 10<br />

minutes.<br />

27

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