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A true Neapolitan…<br />

New generation Italian…<br />

28/29/30/31/32<br />

Interview: Merve Erçuk<br />

Photos: Uğur Bektaş<br />

PiPa is where these concepts are<br />

introduced and offered to the<br />

‹stanbulites. Having quickly become<br />

one of the first names recalled within<br />

the context of Italian cuisine, PiPa’s<br />

secret is lies in bringing Italian tastes<br />

to ‹stanbul in their true versions. You<br />

want to know how? With the<br />

hand-made Neapolitan wood-fired<br />

pizza oven built for the first time in<br />

Turkey by Neapolitan craftsmen... With<br />

organic produce imported from Italy...<br />

With their olive oil and buffalo<br />

mozzarella (cheese made from the<br />

milk of domestic water buffalo)...<br />

All are real Italians...<br />

Recently opened at Ataşehir<br />

<strong>Hillside</strong>–Trio after its original venue in<br />

Nişantaş› and having soon become a<br />

meeting point on the Asian side, PiPa’s<br />

menu is created by the Naples-born,<br />

award-winning chef Enzo Carbone and<br />

PiPa’s Executive Chef Marco Russo.<br />

We wanted to get to know Enzo and<br />

Marco, the “True Neapolitans” of PiPa.<br />

Merve Erçuk: You are preparing the<br />

menus of different restaurants in<br />

many cities across the world and<br />

function as their chefs. What<br />

brought you to ‹stanbul?<br />

Enzo Carbone: Back when I lived in the<br />

Far East, I met and became friends<br />

with Alp Talat Özkan, who was the<br />

manager of a hotel. He told me a little<br />

about the concept of PiPa and asked<br />

me if I would like to take part in the<br />

establishment. This is how I came to<br />

‹stanbul. Marco Russo and I joined<br />

hands and created the menu for PiPa.<br />

PiPa Nişantaş› and PiPa Trio<br />

quickly took their place among the<br />

favorite venues of ‹stanbulites.<br />

You two created the menu for PiPa<br />

together. What were you inspired<br />

by? How would you describe the<br />

menu that you created?<br />

Marco Russo: First of all, if I, as a<br />

customer, go to an Italian restaurant to<br />

eat real Italian food, then I would like to<br />

try different tastes instead of a classic<br />

dish. When I am engaged in the menu<br />

development as a chef, those are my<br />

priority inspirations.<br />

Italian cuisine takes the lead among<br />

the most common and most liked<br />

cuisines in the world. What do you<br />

think is the reason for that?<br />

Marco Russo: Italian cuisine is a<br />

regionally renowned cuisine that<br />

changes as you move from the north to<br />

the south and presents variations in<br />

terms of ingredients. The quality of<br />

Italian cuisine comes first and<br />

foremost from the selection and use of<br />

the freshest, the best and locally<br />

available ingredients rather than<br />

cooking techniques. For centuries,<br />

Italian chefs and producers remained<br />

loyal to traditional Italian tastes; as a<br />

result,<br />

our local products and tastes gained<br />

worldwide recognition. For example,<br />

Mozzarella cheese, Porcini<br />

mushrooms and San Marzano<br />

toamtoes.... A certain esteemed chef<br />

put it very adeptly:<br />

the best ingredient + perfect cooking<br />

technique = exquisite taste.<br />

The kitchen has always been in your<br />

life after your childhood to this day.<br />

Could you share with us your story in<br />

the kitchen? Your training and<br />

achievements….<br />

Enzo Carbone: It has been my greatest<br />

chance to have had the opportunity to<br />

work with many good chefs in and out<br />

of Italy since I was young. I have always<br />

worked hard, tried hard, because<br />

desire and commitment are the<br />

prerequisites of success. Each<br />

experience I had in Italy and abroad has<br />

been an adventure for my cookery and<br />

my vision. Quality, commitment and<br />

teamwork.<br />

Is there anything you regard<br />

essential for a kitchen? What would<br />

make cooking difficult for you if you<br />

did not have them?<br />

Marco Russo: I think that wonderful<br />

dishes can be prepared with passion,<br />

a bit of fantasy and good olive oil.<br />

Equipment is also crucial, of course,<br />

but a good chef should share his<br />

success with the team. I believe I am<br />

very lucky in that respect.<br />

What would you be if you had not<br />

become a chef?<br />

Enzo Carbone: This is a good question<br />

that I also asked myself many times.<br />

I don’t know, but I would definitely do<br />

something that would give everybody<br />

a reason to smile.<br />

What is your motto in life? Can you<br />

describe it in a few sentences?<br />

Marco Russo: We do not live to eat but<br />

we eat to live. So, waste nothing.

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