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1 Reise<br />

Customer Magazine Globetrotter Ausrüstung<br />

<strong>autumn</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

Issue 35<br />

2,50 euros


UNABHÄNGIG.<br />

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DRAUSSEN ZU HAUSE


4 Globetrotter insi<strong>de</strong><br />

»We don’t <strong>de</strong>liver to your tent (yet)«<br />

Globetrotter Ausrüstung on all channels: The new iPhone App offers an integrated online<br />

shop, a product scanner, geographic information and much more. 4-<strong>Seasons</strong> talked with<br />

Martin Haag, head of the in-house editorial office, who has drafted the App.<br />

Martin, the App looks very neat – but why do you<br />

need a product scanner that only works in the shop?<br />

If there is no sales person nearby you can get all the<br />

information on the product in the shop, including<br />

cus tomers’ feedback. Definitely additional value.<br />

You can also use the App as a <strong>de</strong>livery service for<br />

bulky goods – instead of buying a paddle and carrying<br />

it through the city you can simply or<strong>de</strong>r it online<br />

and get it <strong>de</strong>livered, all while you’re still in the shop.<br />

What else can the App do?<br />

The main feature is the smart-phone optimised online<br />

shop. Furthermore, there are brilliant photos,<br />

news, event dates and 4-<strong>Seasons</strong> to download.<br />

What is your favourite feature?<br />

It is called »Orte« which shows events, 4-<strong>Seasons</strong><br />

articles and vi<strong>de</strong>os close to my location or my next<br />

holiday spot. Start travelling with your fingertips to<br />

get inspiration. We also present our stores, including<br />

a virtual visit and route planer. You can switch<br />

off the function if you don‘t want to be located.<br />

What is customers’ initial feedback like?<br />

Pretty good, many have waited long for the App. Of<br />

course there are critics who don’t tolerate little<br />

bugs. We offered a test version via facebook before<br />

publication which was used intensively. Thanks to<br />

those test customers we are already at the second<br />

update. We survived the childhood ailments. We are<br />

happy if you use the feature »Lob & Ta<strong>de</strong>l« and we<br />

reply to every feedback, I promise!<br />

Outdoor is an escape from everyday life. Do I really<br />

need a shopping App in my tent?<br />

The trend is towards mobile internet and online or<strong>de</strong>rs,<br />

many customers expect an excellent App. It<br />

also comes in handy for the occasional visitor on our<br />

website: imagine a tent pole breaks somewhere – you<br />

can or<strong>de</strong>r a replacement straight away and get it <strong>de</strong>livered<br />

to the next post office or the youth hostel.<br />

So, Globetrotter doesn’t <strong>de</strong>liver straight to your tent?<br />

Not yet. We have to keep something for the App’s<br />

next update ;-)<br />

<<br />

Get it for free in<br />

the App-Store: the<br />

new GlobetrotteriPhone-App.<br />

More<br />

information on<br />

globetrotter.<strong>de</strong>/mobil.<br />

Martin Haag<br />

Die wasserdichte,<br />

atmungsaktive Membran<br />

KEEN.DRY hält Füße<br />

im Nassen trocken<br />

Stabilisatoren für mehr<br />

Komfort auf <strong>de</strong>m Trail<br />

GYPSUM MID<br />

Wasser abweisen<strong>de</strong>s Le<strong>de</strong>r<br />

und atmungsaktives Mesh<br />

Multidirektionale Stollen<br />

für besten Grip im Gelän<strong>de</strong><br />

SUPER HALT FÜR ABENTEUER IM GELÄNDE<br />

KEENFOOTWEAR.COM


6<br />

10<br />

24<br />

40<br />

50<br />

54<br />

62<br />

66<br />

Contents<br />

96 54<br />

Living the Dream: Seven months in Africa<br />

Cycling from Cape Town to Cairo.<br />

News<br />

News from the Globetrotter world.<br />

Projects: Go climb a sea stack!<br />

Climbing rock towers in Scotland.<br />

Travel Tip: Palatinate forest path<br />

Hiking into the wi<strong>de</strong> countrysi<strong>de</strong>.<br />

Travel: Best of Mecklenburg<br />

Tour by bike, canoe and hiking boot.<br />

Lucky Cards<br />

Events for Globetrotter loyalty card hol<strong>de</strong>rs.<br />

Manufacturer: Hilleberg<br />

On a trip with Swe<strong>de</strong>n’s tent pope.<br />

40<br />

Contents<br />

Autumn <strong>2012</strong><br />

1 Reise<br />

70<br />

72<br />

82<br />

84<br />

92<br />

96<br />

106<br />

Das Kun<strong>de</strong>nmagazin von Globetrotter Ausrüstung<br />

HERBST <strong>2012</strong><br />

Ausgabe 35<br />

2,50 Euro<br />

Buckshkin Gulch, USA.<br />

More about Utah’s slot<br />

canyons from page 96.<br />

Cover photo: James Kay,<br />

jameskay.com<br />

State of the Art: Salomon XA Pro<br />

The reference shoe for trail running.<br />

10<br />

Equipment Advice: Manaslu<br />

What you need for an eight-thousan<strong>de</strong>r.<br />

Five Stars<br />

Favourite products of Globetrotter’s customers.<br />

Travel: Lake District<br />

Family holiday in England’s outdoor region.<br />

Colleague: Philipp Clodius<br />

Converted to a Globetrotter.<br />

Dream Trip: Slot Canyons in Utah<br />

A magical world ma<strong>de</strong> of light and rock.<br />

Getaway<br />

Globetrotter’s highlights in <strong>autumn</strong>.<br />

66<br />

4-SeaSonS is the customer magazine<br />

of Globetrotter Ausrüstung.<br />

4-SeaSonS is issued quarterly in the<br />

mid of the quarter year.<br />

4-SeaSonS is <strong>de</strong>livered for free to<br />

active customers holding a Globetrotter<br />

Loyalty Card and is available at Globetrotter<br />

stores (while stock lasts).<br />

You can apply for the loyalty card<br />

(GlobetrotterCard) free of charge in<br />

every store and online:<br />

www.globetrotter.<strong>de</strong>/kun<strong>de</strong>nkarte<br />

all iSSueS of 4-SeaSonS are available<br />

on the iPad (Apple App Store) and<br />

as PDF: www.4­<strong>Seasons</strong>.<strong>de</strong>/heftarchiv<br />

Rea<strong>de</strong>R SeRvice<br />

Change of address, missing issue:<br />

phone +49 40/67966­179<br />

editoR<br />

Globetrotter Ausrüstung,<br />

Denart & Lechhart GmbH<br />

Bargkoppelstieg 10–14<br />

22145 Hamburg<br />

Germany<br />

ReSponSible foR content<br />

Torsten Fischer<br />

germAn issue<br />

pRint Run<br />

Second quarter <strong>2012</strong><br />

412.358 copies<br />

editoRial <strong>de</strong>paRtment & concept<br />

Redaktionsbüro Glocker & Neumann<br />

Provinostraße 52, D­86150 Augsburg<br />

Phone: +49 821/42 07 84 0<br />

Fax: +49 821/42 07 84 20<br />

4­<strong>Seasons</strong>@red­gun.com<br />

editoRial team<br />

Stephan Glocker (Editor in Chief), Ingo<br />

Wilhelm, Ingo Hübner, Philip Baues,<br />

Michael Neumann, Julian Rohn, Cindy<br />

Ruch, Manuel Arnu, Michèle Knaup<br />

contRibutoRS<br />

James Kay, Martin Haag, Fabian Nawrath,<br />

Tim Starck, Bettina Flitner, Bernd<br />

Großer, Stephan Meurisch, Dr. Tomas Jelinek,<br />

Michael Hancock, Ralf Gantzhorn,<br />

Diana Haas, Niels und Lars Hoffmann,<br />

Moritz Becher, Frédéric Crétinon, Andreas<br />

Petz, Alix von Melle, Monika Mai, Gerald<br />

Hänel, Philipp Clodius, Sina Muster<br />

<strong>de</strong>Sign & pRoduction<br />

B612 GmbH, Werner Bauer, Jan Maier<br />

Tübinger Str. 77­1<br />

70178 Stuttgart, Germany<br />

w.bauer@b612­<strong>de</strong>sign.<strong>de</strong><br />

adveRtiSment & coopeRation<br />

4­<strong>Seasons</strong> Marketing<br />

Sarah Jentsch<br />

Phone: +49 821/42 07 84 12<br />

Fax: +49 821/42 07 84 20<br />

jentsch@red­gun.com<br />

pRint<br />

Stark Druck GmbH + Co. KG, Pforzheim<br />

english issue<br />

tRanSlation & pRoduction<br />

Cindy Ruch, Jens Klatt<br />

4-SeaSonS online<br />

www.4­<strong>Seasons</strong>.<strong>de</strong><br />

Our printer and paper is FSC certified.


EXPEDITION:<br />

SHARK’S FIN<br />

MERU, GARWHAL HIMALAYA Mugs Stump’s Versuch, die Shark’s Fin<br />

zu besteigen, scheiterte an einem<br />

Lawinenabgang<br />

Conrad Anker im Meru Hardshell an einer<br />

<strong>de</strong>r Schlüsselstellen <strong>de</strong>r Route. Foto: Jimmy Chin<br />

JUNI / Starker Schneefall zwang das<br />

Team dazu, vier Tage in <strong>de</strong>r Wand<br />

zu verweilen. Am 18. Tag gelang es<br />

ihnen, bis 100 Meter unter <strong>de</strong>n Gipfel<br />

zu steigen – aber nicht weiter.<br />

Nach zwei Tagen Abstieg waren<br />

sie wie<strong>de</strong>r in Sicherheit.<br />

Conrad Anker, Doug Chabot und Bruce Miller<br />

schafften die Besteigung wegen Schnee<br />

und mangeln<strong>de</strong>r Ausrüstung nicht Conrad Anker<br />

OKTOBER / Conrad Anker trägt das<br />

Radish Midlayer Jacket mit längeren<br />

Ärmeln und Daumenschlaufen,<br />

Helm-kompatibler Kapuze<br />

und einer Brusttasche<br />

Hiroyoshi Manome musste seinen vierten<br />

Versuch abbrechen, als sich sein Partner<br />

in 6.050 Meter <strong>de</strong>n Knöchel brach<br />

1986 2003 2004<br />

2006<br />

2008 2009 - 2010 Einblicke in die Entwicklung <strong>de</strong>s Meru-Kits –<br />

2011<br />

Innovationen getrieben von widrigsten<br />

Wetterbedingungen am Meru<br />

OKTOBER / Das Meru Gore und das<br />

Shaffle Jacket halten Expeditions-Führer<br />

Conrad Anker und sein Team nach<br />

<strong>de</strong>r Erstbesteigung am Gipfel warm<br />

Mehr Informationen zur Meru Kollektion<br />

und <strong>de</strong>r Erstbesteigung unter thenorthface.com<br />

Mehrere internationale Teams versuchten<br />

vergeblich <strong>de</strong>n Gipfel <strong>de</strong>s Meru<br />

durch die Shark’s Fin zu besteigen<br />

“In <strong>de</strong>n extremsten Momenten<br />

musst du dich auf <strong>de</strong>in Gefühl verlassen.”<br />

—Bergsteigerlegen<strong>de</strong> Conrad Anker hat alle Erfahrungen aus 30 Jahren<br />

für die Erstbesteigung <strong>de</strong>r Shark’s Fin genutzt<br />

Wissen gewinnt man durch Erfahrung. Conrad Anker war entschlossen, die perfekte Route am Meru zu<br />

klettern. Auf Basis von Zeichnungen, die Conrad auf Expeditionen und in gemeinsamen Sessions mit<br />

seinen Kletterpartnern anfertigte, entwickelte The North Face ® eine Kopf bis Fuß Ausstattung für das<br />

gesamte Team – abgestimmt auf die unterschiedlichen Kletterstile und die rauhen Wetterbedingungen<br />

am Meru. Das Radish Midlayer Jacket, das Meru Gore Jacket, die Bib und das Shaf e Jacket bieten<br />

absoluten Schutz und Isolierung beim Klettern in Temperaturen von bis zu -20 Grad. Conrad, Jimmy<br />

Chin und Renan Ozturk waren die ersten aus über 30 Teams, die durch die Shark’s Fin gestiegen sind.


10 Living the Dream Living the Dream 11<br />

Wi<strong>de</strong> Awake<br />

in Africa<br />

Interview: Cindy Ruch | Photos: Fabian Nawrath<br />

12 hours to get there, 7 months to get back: Tim Starck<br />

and Fabian Nawrath flew to Cape Town and cycled back<br />

home through the whole of Africa. The result: hair-raising<br />

adventures, fantastic experiences, 9,000 euro donation to<br />

charity and the award »Globetrotter of the Year«.


12<br />

Living the Dream<br />

Living the Dream 13<br />

My beautiful laundrette:<br />

Lake Tanganjika, Zambia.<br />

All the way from Cape Town to Cairo – mostly on dirt roads.<br />

You’re in your early twenties, have just left school and led a<br />

sheltered life – why did you <strong>de</strong>ci<strong>de</strong> to start with such a big<br />

tour? Wasn’t a 12,000 kilometre cycle tour through Africa<br />

a bit out of your league?<br />

Tim: We weren‘t so mollycoddled. Fabian backpacked around Tunisia<br />

and Morocco before, I visited friends in Kenya. We realised<br />

quickly that Africa is different than the picture we receive in Germany.<br />

There is so much vibrancy and enjoyment to be found!<br />

Fabian: It wasn’t our aim to act the part of the hero and survive the<br />

most dangers. For most Europeans, Africa is still the blank spot on<br />

the map and full of negative news; people first think about wild<br />

animals and bandits but we wanted to see what else there is and<br />

document it.<br />

What was it like to start cycling into the unknown?<br />

Fabian: Pretty easy going. South Africa is very similar to Europe.<br />

Behind the Namibian Redline however, the real Africa started. A<br />

redline is supposed to keep the wild animals out of South Africa,<br />

however, we experienced it rather as a cultural boar<strong>de</strong>r.<br />

Did you meet lions and men with weapons?<br />

Tim: There are hardly any lions left outsi<strong>de</strong> the national parks.<br />

Crocodiles and lions didn’t cross our way either.<br />

Fabian: We got arrested a few times though…<br />

You got arrested!<br />

Fabian: The word »arrested« gets used frequently in Africa. Not<br />

every arrest ends up in prison. One night, we camped in a cornfield,<br />

in the middle of the boar<strong>de</strong>r area between Zambia, Malawi,<br />

Tanzania and Congo. A pick-up appeared in the middle of the >


14 Living the Dream Living the Dream 15<br />

night, high beam straight into our tent. Right in front of us was a rious, so we wanted them to drive us to the next police station. Ined<br />

to a farm. It was one of the areas we felt the safest. Back home Did you feel ready for such a big trip at the ages of 19 and 20?<br />

group of soldiers carrying Kalashnikovs. The first ten minutes were stead, they wanted to bring us back down into the valley we had<br />

in Germany, we heard that a warning had been issued by the Fed- Tim: At the beginning, I felt mature enough. In between, pretty<br />

pretty tense. The soldiers must have been our age, luckily they just struggled to climb out of – 1,000 metres lower down. Su<strong>de</strong>ral<br />

Foreign Office because of the civil war: They wrote about naïve. And in the end, mature again.<br />

weren’t aggressive. It’s rather the officials who like to play their <strong>de</strong>nly the man with the handcuffs grinned: How much were we<br />

mass mur<strong>de</strong>r and villages on fire.<br />

Fabian: It might have been naïve that we didn’t know how to fix<br />

little games. They accused us of being Israeli spies. Everybody willing to pay? We suggested the price for a couple of cokes worth<br />

spokes. We brought all the tools with us but didn’t have a clue how<br />

calm ed down when we exchanged some words of English. In the about four euros. They <strong>de</strong>man<strong>de</strong>d 30 euros for each of us. In the<br />

So you didn’t read up on the news what was happening?<br />

to take our bikes apart.<br />

end, they put our tent and the two of us on their pick-up and drove end, we payed 20 euros for both of us – which is still a lot of<br />

Fabian: We did watch BBC and read Spiegel Online. You’re always<br />

us two kilometres down the road where we could camp in the bush. money given the circumstances over there.<br />

shocked when you read their news: civil war in Sudan! However, The interview takes places in an Ethiopian restaurant. Tim and<br />

that‘s just the information for the European audience. Sudan is Fabian like what the menu has to offer and explain each dish to<br />

Did you offer a bribe to get away?<br />

It doesn’t sound like the vibrancy and enjoyment you had<br />

the third biggest state in Africa and the civil war didn‘t spread all me. When the owner of the restaurant brings us our food, he only<br />

Tim: Not in this case. That happened in Kenya when we hung on expected…<br />

over the state.<br />

carries one big plate and puts it in the middle of the table.<br />

the back of a truck to get up a hill. We were stopped and threat- Tim: It was an exception to get arrested. Most of the time we had<br />

Tim: We regularly checked the maps on the website of the UN<br />

ened with weapons and handcuffs. »You’re arrested«, they shout- fantastic experiences – mostly in places where we least expected<br />

peacekeepers. The civil war went through South Sudan and we Is it common to eat from one big plate in Ethiopia?<br />

ed. Apparently it is illegal to hang on the back of a truck there. it. For example, Uganda was just like paradise: happy kids, peace-<br />

just cycled past. Other travellers and locals were also important Tim: Yes, it’s such a great experience. You always get a big injera<br />

Fabian: They weren‘t wearing any uniform but were absolutely se- ful countrysi<strong>de</strong>, tranquillity and very friendly people. We got invit-<br />

sources for information.<br />

with your dish, a sponge-like pancake ma<strong>de</strong> out of teff flour. ><br />

»We wanted to see the other picture of Africa,<br />

not only the negative news that we receive<br />

in Germany.«<br />

This is Africa: Jesus with a stick, cycle taxi with a redundant cockpit system.<br />

Hustle and bustle and solitu<strong>de</strong>:<br />

Twyfelfontein valley in<br />

Namibia.


16 Living the Dream Living the Dream 17<br />

»You can either vent your anger at each other or<br />

you can bear it together,<br />

whatever you feel like.«<br />

Broken spokes somewhere in nowhere. There will be help. Soon…<br />

You can grab the meat and vegetables with it.<br />

Fabian: In Ethiopia, everybody shares the food. Quite often people<br />

in restaurants simply invited us to their table. They wanted to<br />

share their food and hear our stories. Sometimes we got han<strong>de</strong>d<br />

over from one table to another – so when our food arrived, we were<br />

not hungry any more.<br />

What is it like when locals meet cyclists?<br />

Tim: On a bike you’re more accessible than in a car or a bus. We<br />

often stopped and joked around with the kids, let them have fun<br />

with our bikes. They were happy.<br />

Fabian: Asking for water was another way of getting in contact<br />

with the locals.<br />

Water management must be an important issue on such a tour…<br />

Fabian: In South Africa, we always bought bottled water. We got<br />

out of this habit pretty quickly: First, we drank tap water and later<br />

on, simply water from running rivers and streams. We even got rid<br />

of the water filter and just copied the locals’ habits. The Nile was<br />

brown and dirty during the wet season in Ethiopia. People still<br />

scooped water and waited until the dirt went to the bottom so that<br />

the water was clear and you could drink it.<br />

Tim: One of the most important lessons we learnt was that there is<br />

always water where there are people. We never carried more than<br />

three litres of water with us, even through the <strong>de</strong>sert.<br />

Did you get mugged?<br />

Tim: My bicycle disappeared once – luckily we caught the thief.<br />

He tried to explain he wanted to hi<strong>de</strong> it in a better spot.... And I<br />

lost my wallet, however, I’m not sure if I forgot it or if it got stolen.<br />

On the bright si<strong>de</strong>: A man brought me my wallet after I left it on<br />

the back of my bike. Not a single coin was missing!<br />

Fabian: The same happened with my GPS. We started cycling down<br />

the hill and after 500 metres I realised that I hadn’t put it back into<br />

my bag. I turned around immediately – 30 children were running<br />

towards me, screaming and shouting and holding my GPS. ><br />

Alpha SV – arcteryx.com


18 Living the Dream Living the Dream 19<br />

You were pretty lucky, weren’t you?<br />

Tim: It was probably the right combination: A lot of luck and our<br />

trust in people.<br />

You didn’t know each other before the trip. How did you get to<br />

know each other?<br />

Fabian: After finishing high school, I packed my bike and started<br />

cycling off to Egypt. While in Istanbul, I received an offer from my<br />

Looking for gold in Sudan.<br />

»Once we acci<strong>de</strong>ntally bought a whole bunch of bananas. We<br />

put them on the back of the bike and munched bananas in<br />

the morning, at lunch time, in the evening.«<br />

university. Ever since then I never stopped dreaming about Africa.<br />

I stumbled across a post on the internet (radreise-forum.<strong>de</strong>) from<br />

Tim. He was looking for a cycling companion. That was to be me.<br />

Tim: When I was in seventh gra<strong>de</strong> I read the travel book »Radnoma<strong>de</strong>n«<br />

by Sarah Pendzich and Markus Fix who had cycled<br />

through China. I really liked their story and wanted to go on a trip<br />

like them. However, the country lost its fascination over the years,<br />

mainly because of communism. So I visited friends in Kenya and<br />

it became immediately clear that it should be Africa instead of<br />

China. None of my friends wanted to join so I posted my plans online.<br />

Did the two of you get along straight away?<br />

Tim: We went on a little test trip together. It all started a bit slow<br />

which was totally fine. I mean, you can’t talk all the time while<br />

cycling anyway…<br />

Fabian: Once we hit the African roads, we became close friends<br />

though.<br />

Halfway there: crossing the equator in Uganda.<br />

Didn’t you dare to travel around on your own?<br />

Fabian: Days can be endlessly long when you are on your own.<br />

That hit me when I cycled 3,500 kilometres from Aachen to Istanbul.<br />

I cycled 100 kilometres through the Pannonian steppe, pitched<br />

my tent, cooked something – and still, it was only 6 pm. I<br />

didn’t know what to do with the rest of the evening. Sometimes, I<br />

packed up again and kept on cycling until my joints hurt. When<br />

hardly any traffic. The question is: Is the fastest way really the more exhausting than I had thought, and at the same time we had<br />

you travel with somebody you are less lonely – and lots of things<br />

best one? We mostly cycled on dirt roads and pathways, far off the bad food. Anyway, I got sick and nee<strong>de</strong>d a break. So we <strong>de</strong>ci<strong>de</strong>d to<br />

are just easier. For example, one person can watch the bikes while<br />

main roads. Those aren’t the perfect roads when a spoke breaks. travel solo for a while.<br />

the other person buys food.<br />

However, those are the best ways to get in contact with locals. Tim: It was a good <strong>de</strong>cision for both of us, after a while you natu-<br />

Tim: I also wanted to share my experiences. You can’t grasp it all<br />

rally get on each other’s wick. At the beginning, I enjoyed travel-<br />

on your own, be it the big things or the many little impressions.<br />

How heavy is the bicycle of a self-sufficient cyclist?<br />

ling alone. After four days I couldn’t handle it though. Burundi is<br />

Afterwards, you always sum it up in anecdotes and basic bits of<br />

Fabian: Each of us moved 45 kilograms, including bicycle, water hilly and extremely <strong>de</strong>nsely populated. I crawled up the hills, peo-<br />

information anyway. Most of the people are impressed when they<br />

and food.<br />

ple were everywhere, they starred and shouted at me. I felt like an<br />

hear we cycled 12,000 kilometres. Funny enough, it’s not a big<br />

animal in the zoo and couldn’t escape at all. I had reached my<br />

<strong>de</strong>al while doing it. You just start cycling and then you keep on<br />

Was there any equipment you didn’t bring but wished you had brought? physical limits and was just exhausted.<br />

going. It’s like a river.<br />

Fabian: A chain whip would have been useful to take off the chain<br />

ring and change broken spokes, as well as a chain tool. I could Can you avoid situations like that when travelling together?<br />

Could everybody cycle through Africa?<br />

have left my big sleeping bag at home. The nights in the <strong>de</strong>sert Tim: Not necessarily. You can either vent your anger at each other<br />

Tim: Probably every normal person can do it – if he or she really<br />

weren’t as cold as expected.<br />

or you can grin and bear it together, whatever you feel like. Of<br />

wants to do it.<br />

Tim: You don’t even need a tent when you don’t mind bugs crawling course there are limits: There are moments when you feel helpless<br />

over you. The weather won’t be a problem; it’s rather the mosquitoes. even if you are travelling with a partner. Sometimes, children were<br />

Are the roads ma<strong>de</strong> for bicycles?<br />

very aggressive towards us. They threw stones and put sticks bet-<br />

Tim: You can cycle all the way from Cape Town to Cairo on paved<br />

Was there a crisis?<br />

ween our spokes. We didn’t know what we did wrong. We just tried<br />

road, except for one stretch between Kenya and Ethiopia. There is Fabian: I was pretty down in Zambia. Getting almost arrested was to say hi in Amharic.<br />

>


20 Living the Dream Living the Dream 21<br />

Table football on the si<strong>de</strong> of the road. The bet: two cokes.<br />

»We have already collected 9,000 euro,<br />

and will continue with it until we reach the<br />

12,000 kilometres in euros.«<br />

Do you know now why children threw stones at you?<br />

Tim: We talked about it in a restaurant in the area. They just asked<br />

why we didn’t throw stones back at them! I guess that’s life. The<br />

shop owners throw stones at the youths to scare them away from<br />

their shop entrances, the youths throw stones at their younger siblings,<br />

and they in turn throw stones at cows and white cyclists. We<br />

haven’t found an answer yet. Some things probably have to stay a<br />

secret when you’re travelling through a foreign country.<br />

Why did you <strong>de</strong>ci<strong>de</strong>d to collect donations for Doctors Without<br />

Bor<strong>de</strong>rs?<br />

Fabian: It was our plan from the very beginning to make our trip<br />

public through different types of media, like on our blog or in a<br />

film. We wanted to show a different picture of Africa to the people<br />

who followed our journey from home – and in turn, we wanted to<br />

redirect the attention we got. We wanted Africa to profit from it.<br />

One euro per kilometre is the goal.<br />

Tim: On the road we simply couldn’t help everybody, so we chose<br />

Doctors Without Bor<strong>de</strong>rs. They know where aid is most nee<strong>de</strong>d.<br />

We have already got 9,000 euros, and will continue until we reach<br />

the 12,000 kilometres in euros.<br />

Earlier you said that you held onto a truck while going uphill. Isn’t<br />

that cheating?<br />

Fabian: We didn’t do everything by the rulebook. We took the ferry<br />

once, too. We did have ambitions though: for example Tim wanted<br />

to cycle up the Blue Nile Gorge. I happened to catch the back of a<br />

truck and was on top two hours earlier to play table football with<br />

the kids. We gambled with two cokes – they won.<br />

You’re always talking about coke. Was it your very own currency?<br />

Fabian: Exactly. When we arrived in a new state we always bought<br />

a coke first which is actually cheaper than water. You get an i<strong>de</strong>a<br />

about how much things like bananas or a night in a guesthouse ><br />

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Glittertind Jacket<br />

Beson<strong>de</strong>rs leichte technische Hardshell-Jacke<br />

mit geringem Gewicht und Packvolumen aus<br />

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winddicht sowie hoch atmungsaktiv.<br />

Kalhovd Pants<br />

Praktische Hose für die Jagd und aktive Freizeit.<br />

Sitz und Beine bestehen aus wind- und<br />

wasserdichtem sowie Feuchtigkeit<br />

transportieren<strong>de</strong>m Dermizax.<br />

forever pioneers<br />

Bergans Son<strong>de</strong>r äche bei<br />

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beson<strong>de</strong>rs guter Rückenbelü ung. Aufgrund <strong>de</strong>s<br />

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zahlreichen Taschen und Befestigungspunkten.<br />

Explorers choice since 1908<br />

www.bergans.<strong>de</strong>


22<br />

Living the Dream<br />

Slowing down in Cairo: the 4,500 year old pyramids are in a better shape than the seven month old saddle.<br />

will cost. It works most of the time. Once we acci<strong>de</strong>ntally bought a<br />

whole bunch of bananas. We put them on the back of the bike and<br />

munched bananas in the morning, at lunch time, in the evening…<br />

Did Globetrotter Ausrüstung sponsor your adventure? You carried<br />

the logo around with you on Fabian’s panniers.<br />

Fabian: No, I bought them as a normal customer because of the<br />

quality and the great value for money. However, when we came<br />

back we applied to be »Globetrotter of the Year« and we actually<br />

won 2,500 euros. If we got the prize because of my panniers, the<br />

value for money is of course even better…<br />

Now you’re back home. Are you still dreaming of Africa?<br />

Tim: All the time. I want to write a book about our journey, but it’s<br />

going a bit slow. I have got enough on my plate with my apprenticeship.<br />

We did realise our photo exhibition »Begegnungen mit Afrika«<br />

(Encounters in Africa) though; it’s a 90-minute presentation we<br />

show upon request. (editor’s note: get contact via africabybike.<strong>de</strong>)<br />

Fabian: I’m just cutting a little road movie. It is a bit tricky because<br />

to do this I need to imagine things from an audience‘s perspective.<br />

You can get a bit carried away when you make a film about<br />

your own experiences.<br />

Tim: We will never forget our African adventure, I’m sure<br />

about that. There is a sentence by Hemingway which captures<br />

it exactly: »I never knew of a morning in Africa when I woke up<br />

and I was not happy.«<br />

<<br />

More about the<br />

»Globetrotter of the Year«<br />

Fabian Nawrath, born 1989 in<br />

Aachen, did not only cycle far off to<br />

Istanbul or Africa, but is also cycling<br />

every day to FH Aachen to study<br />

<strong>de</strong>sign.<br />

Tim Starck, born 1991 in Tübingen, is<br />

doing an apprenticeship as a physiotherapist.<br />

Later on, he wants to study<br />

medicine and dreams about returning<br />

to Ethiopia as a doctor.<br />

You can dig into the whole adventure on africabybike.<strong>de</strong>. There is also more<br />

information about Doctors Without Bor<strong>de</strong>rs, their photo exhibition and presentation,<br />

as well as their plans about the book and the movie.<br />

Want to be the next Globetrotter of the Year? globetrotter.<strong>de</strong>/gdj.<br />

»Rumqui non re et fugiani hilibus<br />

aborrum dolupta nonsequ.«<br />

Torrovid ma quo commo te volupta num volupta<br />

Unsere Händler fin<strong>de</strong>n Sie unter<br />

www.tatonka.com<br />

Tatonka GmbH · Robert-Bosch-Straße 3 · D-86453 Dasing · Fax +49 8205 9602-30<br />

Trekkingrucksack Bison 75 EXP<br />

für höchste Ansprüche.


24 News News 25<br />

News<br />

Autumn <strong>2012</strong><br />

Where the Wild Films Are<br />

The European Outdoor Film Tour (E.O.F.T.) screens the most exciting sports- and adventure-films of the year.<br />

200 shows in 9 countries and 132 cities, starting this <strong>autumn</strong>.<br />

Chris Bray looks tired and exhausted when<br />

he turns towards the camera. »Right now<br />

what I’d like to do is throw up in a little<br />

bowl and go to sleep.« It is not the morning<br />

after a night-out, it is only the first<br />

evening of their Victoria Island Expedition.<br />

»We are slowly starting to realise what<br />

we got ourselves into«, his expedition<br />

partner Clark Carter groans and moves<br />

slowly towards the tent. But wait, is it a<br />

tent on wheels?<br />

On Kevlar wheels over rough and smooth<br />

The PAC (=Paddleable Amphibious Cart)<br />

rolls forward on four oversized truck wheels<br />

covered in gold. »It’s Kevlar«, explains Chris,<br />

»the sort of stuff you make bullet-proof vests<br />

out of.« It helps them to get over rocks,<br />

through ice and <strong>de</strong>ep mud. It is no surprise it<br />

can swim too. A brilliant construction, especially<br />

ma<strong>de</strong> for crossing an island north of<br />

the Arctic Circle. Apart from a handful of<br />

people, there are only ice bears, musk oxen<br />

and arctic wolves up there. 1,000 kilome-<br />

tres over rough and smooth lay ahead of<br />

them. Who might give up first? The sun<br />

drenched Australians or the PAC…<br />

Approaching a slackline world champion<br />

The Australian tinkerers are not the only<br />

ones in the film program realising wild<br />

i<strong>de</strong>as. Slackliner Andy Lewis offers similar<br />

twists and tricks. He turned down an offer<br />

by Madonna (!) to accompany her as a<br />

show act on her world tour: »That’s not my<br />

thing.« He does not need the big stage for<br />

his tricks. The current world champion preferably<br />

backflips along the slackline and<br />

sometimes does not even bother to use the<br />

safety leash or wear any clothes whatever<br />

when on the highline. The E.O.F.T. will<br />

screen his portrait »Sketchy Andy«.<br />

Another crazy thing in the program: »The<br />

Shapeshifter«. Kayaker Ben Marr paddles<br />

with fire, putting the game with the elements<br />

into a new light. Mystical whitewater<br />

action, gripping sound: it is <strong>de</strong>finitely the<br />

visual highlight of the E.O.F.T. 12/13. <<br />

Starting on<br />

October 11th.<br />

The E.O.F.T. will travel around<br />

Europe from 11 October<br />

carrying a two hour film<br />

program in their backpacks.<br />

Find out more about the film<br />

program, tickets and the<br />

schedule on eoft.eu.<br />

Special ticket/DVD-package<br />

offer for GlobetrotterCard Customers for 25 euros<br />

instead of 31 euros. Further information on<br />

globetrotter.<strong>de</strong>/kun<strong>de</strong>nkarte.<br />

Flare boat: Ben Marr <strong>de</strong>ci<strong>de</strong>d to stick a flare on his kayak for his E.O.F.T. film clip.<br />

Two Australians <strong>de</strong>ci<strong>de</strong>d to swap sun and surfboard for ice and an ice truck.<br />

Photos: E.O.F.T.


Photo: Bernd Großer<br />

26<br />

News<br />

Alice in Outdoor Won<strong>de</strong>rland<br />

Experience outdoor fun from the<br />

insi<strong>de</strong> at Cologne’s GlobeWelt.<br />

Alice Schwarzer and Andreas<br />

Kieling are invited too.<br />

It is time for another GlobeWelt: from the<br />

2nd till the 4th of November, the travel<br />

and outdoor festival will take place for the<br />

third time in the Globetrotter store in<br />

Cologne (Olivan<strong>de</strong>nhof, Richmodstraße<br />

10). A numerous range of retailers will introduce<br />

their latest products and tell you<br />

all the secrets on the festival’s theme »Travel<br />

light and comfortable«. Tips and workshops<br />

from First Aid to Slackline will help<br />

you to jump straight into the next adven-<br />

New Climbing Forest in Dres<strong>de</strong>n<br />

ture. If you feel brave enough, you can swing<br />

through the rotunda of Europe’s biggest<br />

outdoor store on a giant vine like Tarzan.<br />

If you are curious to know more rather than<br />

ready to swing around, visit the presentations<br />

by Andreas Kieling (»Adventurous<br />

Alaska«, 4 November) and by Alice Schwarzer<br />

(»Travel in Burma«, 2 November). The<br />

journalist has travelled around the Asian<br />

country six times and will present her book<br />

she produced together with photographer<br />

Bettina Flitner (Globetrotter or<strong>de</strong>r number<br />

21.41.70., 34.95 euros). The presentations<br />

will take place at the Rautenstrauch Joest<br />

Museum, less than two minutes away from<br />

the store. Tickets for the evening program are<br />

bookable for 10 euros each. Anything else?<br />

Click on globewelt.info.<br />

<<br />

It is tough to be a child in Saxon Switzerland these days. They have to<br />

make <strong>de</strong>cisions. Should they conquer the Königstein Fortress? Or should<br />

they first scramble around the new climbing forest?<br />

The hamster wheel is one of the 68 climbing elements.<br />

Schwarzer and Flitner in Burma.<br />

The new climbing forest, supported by<br />

Globetrotter Ausrüstung, is at an excellent<br />

location: it is next to the visitor parking<br />

area of the famous Königstein Fortress,<br />

about 20 kilometres away from Dres<strong>de</strong>n.<br />

68 climbing elements are stretched between<br />

the trees in different difficulty levels,<br />

divi<strong>de</strong>d into seven courses. Children from<br />

age five can climb around with their parents,<br />

children from age eight can go and<br />

explore the area on their own. The new belay<br />

system Smart Belay by E<strong>de</strong>lrid offers<br />

the best security. It prevents the risk of falling<br />

as climbers cannot acci<strong>de</strong>ntally unclip<br />

two carabiners at the same time.<br />

14 apprentices from the Globetrotter<br />

store in Dres<strong>de</strong>n already tested and enjoyed<br />

the Climbing Forest. They explored the<br />

forest together with apprentices from the<br />

Health Insurance Company Barmer GEK.<br />

They did not only learn about the new belay<br />

system, but exchanged some tips<br />

about how to cook healthy food on the<br />

camping cooker as well.<br />

Visitors can spend a day in the whole of the<br />

Climbing Forest (2.5 hours, children 14/<br />

adults 18 euros) or in parts of it (4 courses,<br />

1,5 hours, 10/14 euros). Every<br />

Globetrotter Card Customer will get 10 percent<br />

off the entry fee.<br />

Further information: kletterwald-koenigstein.<br />

<strong>de</strong>, phone: +49 3 50 22/918 28 28. <<br />

Photo: Bettina Flitner<br />

Seit über 50 Jahren entwickeln und verbessern<br />

wir Rucksäcke, die es dir leichter machen,<br />

die Natur zu genießen. Eine unserer letzten<br />

Entwicklungen ist <strong>de</strong>r Helags Rucksack.<br />

Der Helags Helags wur<strong>de</strong> gebaut, um starker<br />

Beanspruchung und und Abrieb für lange Zeit Zeit<br />

stand zu halten.<br />

Mit bewährten Lösungen ist dieser<br />

Rucksack gleichermaßen geeignet für<br />

<strong>de</strong>n allgemeinen Einsatz im Freien, für<br />

Wan<strong>de</strong>rungen und Abenteuerreisen.<br />

Der Helags Helags hat seinen Namen von <strong>de</strong>r <strong>de</strong>r<br />

gleichnamigen schwedischen BergBergkette kette - einer <strong>de</strong>r wenigen Plätze, Plätze, wo<br />

man noch immer immer einen üchtigen<br />

Blick Blick von von <strong>de</strong>m <strong>de</strong>m Polarfuchs erhaschen<br />

kann. Für je<strong>de</strong>n verkauften Rucksack<br />

gehen 5€ an das Projekt SEFALO+,<br />

das das sich für die Erhaltung <strong>de</strong>s <strong>de</strong>s Polarfuchses<br />

in <strong>de</strong>r Helags Gebirgskette Gebirgskette<br />

einsetzt.<br />

Mit Mit Mit einem einem einem guten guten guten Rucksack Rucksack Rucksack kannst kannst kannst du du du die die die Natur Natur Natur<br />

besser besser besser genießen! genießen! genießen! Mehr Mehr Mehr Auswahl Auswahl Auswahl n<strong>de</strong>st n<strong>de</strong>st n<strong>de</strong>st du du unter: unter: unter:<br />

www. ällräven.<strong>de</strong><br />

Hier fin<strong>de</strong>st du <strong>de</strong>n Händler in <strong>de</strong>iner Nähe:<br />

HELAGS<br />

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Helags 40L<br />

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Helags 30L<br />

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01... Dres<strong>de</strong>n Der Gipfelgrat •<br />

Globetrotter Ausrüstungen • Pik Ardie 04103 Leipzig Tapir •<br />

Husky Outdoor Store 08056 Zwickau Der Navigator 10... Berlin Camp4 • Der Aussteiger •<br />

Globetrotter Ausrüstungen<br />

14467 Potsdam Der Aussteiger 17489 Greifswald Trekkinghaus Greifswald 18055 Rostock Nordcamp 21335 Lüneburg Trekking König 22305 Hamburg Globetrotter Ausrüstungen 23552 Lübeck<br />

Globecamp<br />

24103 Kiel Unterwegs 24937 Flensburg TUM-Trekking&mehr 26122 Ol<strong>de</strong>nburg Unterwegs 26382 Wilhelmshaven Unterwegs Reiseausrüstung 26689 Augustfehn Börjes Bikers Out Out t 28195 Bremen<br />

Unterwegs Orange 28195 Bremen Unterwegs Trekking&mehr 29221 Celle Unterwegs 29556 Su<strong>de</strong>rburg Wildnissport 30159 Hannover Sachen für Unterwegs 32423 Min<strong>de</strong>n Weltenbummler 33098 Pa<strong>de</strong>rborn<br />

Der Outdoorla<strong>de</strong>n 33428 Greffen Outdoor Shop 33602 Bielefeld Unterwegs 35041 Marburg-Wehrda Intersport Begro 35390 Giessen Intersport Begro 35394 Giessen/Schiffenberger Tal Intersport Begro<br />

36043 Fulda Doorout.com 37671 Höxter Unterwegs 38100 Braunschweig Sachen für Unterwegs 38855 Wernigero<strong>de</strong> Travelcamp 40210 Düsseldorf Terri Terri Terri c.<strong>de</strong> • Sack & Pack 41747 Viersen Hammans Freizeit<br />

41812 Erkelenz Weltenbummler 44803 Bochum Walkabout 45549 Sprockhövel Die Berghütte 45721 Haltern am See Nelke Outdoor 45891 Gelsenkirchen Trekking Star 46286 Dorsten Up & Away 47051<br />

Duisburg Watzmann La<strong>de</strong>n 48... Münster Terracamp • Unterwegs Outdoor • Wa Wa Wa Wa en Dumbeck • Rucksack Oase 49074 Osnabrück Bewatrek 49377 Vechta Rucksack.<strong>de</strong> 50667 Köln Globetrotter Ausrüstungen<br />

50679 Köln-Deutz Blackfoot Outdoor Sportartikel 52062 Aachen Sport Gruber • Sport Spezial 531.. Bonn Steppenwolf Globetrotter Ausrüstungen 53879 Euskirchen Outdoor- Hauschke 53937 Schlei<strong>de</strong>n-GeSchlei<strong>de</strong>n-Gemünd<br />

Sport Team 57299 Burbach PM Outdoor 57392 Schmallenberg Intersport Begro 57462 Olpe-Dahl Buchen`s GmbH 59955 Winterberg Peter O. 842 60314 Frankfurt Globetrotter Ausrüstungen 65549<br />

Limburg Biwak Bike+Outdoor 701.. Stuttgart Woick Travel Store • LARCA Sportartikel 70794 Fil<strong>de</strong>rstadt Woick Travel Center 72138 Kirchentellinsfurt Bergfreun<strong>de</strong> 73614 Schorndorf LARCA Sportartikel<br />

803.. München Därr Expeditionsservice • Globetrotter Ausrüstungen 88131 Lindau Wesarg´s Company 89129 Langenau Süd-West 92421 Schwandorf Stöckl - Der Outdoorla<strong>de</strong>n 93086 Wörth Der Ausrüster<br />

94032 Passau Ausrüster 94032 Passau Pritz Globetrotter 94315 Straubing Ausrüster


28 News News 29<br />

Outdoor for Beginners<br />

No excuse and no reason to stay<br />

insi<strong>de</strong> any more. Outdoor.<strong>de</strong>,<br />

Globetrotter’s new online portal, is<br />

opening their doors to the outsi<strong>de</strong>.<br />

Sometimes you do not know where to start.<br />

Outdoor.<strong>de</strong> will introduce a new topic each<br />

week, so everybody can start from scratch<br />

and get straight into the outdoor fun.<br />

Whether it be hiking or trekking, or be it<br />

less sweaty outdoor activities like BBQ and<br />

open air music festivals: It is all about<br />

being outsi<strong>de</strong>. Outdoor in four categories:<br />

• The right equipment from the Globetrotter<br />

range, shown with a 360 <strong>de</strong>gree view. When<br />

you click on it, you can or<strong>de</strong>r the product<br />

directly from Globetrotter’s online shop.<br />

• Articles and film clips from 4-<strong>Seasons</strong><br />

(about 850 articles), as well as additional advice<br />

by the Globetrotter channel 4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.tv.<br />

• Events <strong>de</strong>aling with the current topic like<br />

the 24-Hour Hike.<br />

• Chosen dream <strong>de</strong>stinations and locations,<br />

including stories from the travel writing<br />

portal reiseberichte.com<br />

»Many outdoor products look really exciting<br />

and stylish these days – we want to<br />

show the range and possibilities to begin-<br />

Borneo 2 MFS<br />

Everything is top: Equipment, advice, events and locations.<br />

ners with inviting pictures«, enthuses Thomas<br />

Lipke, Managing Partner of Globetrotter,<br />

the new online portal outdoor.<strong>de</strong> at<br />

a press conference. However, he kept secret<br />

the price of the catchy internet<br />

address. They hope to address a new audience<br />

with the »bite-size presentation«,<br />

explains Lipke. Nice si<strong>de</strong> effect: because<br />

the <strong>de</strong>sign is so neat, it can be easily navigated<br />

on smart phones or tablets. <<br />

bequem & robust<br />

❚ Memory-Foam-System<br />

❚ Hohe Formstabilität<br />

❚ Handaufgezogener Gummigürtel<br />

❚ Air-Active®-Technologie<br />

❚ Meindl Multigriff® von Vibram®<br />

www.meindl.<strong>de</strong><br />

»I find a spare bed every night«<br />

Globetrotter colleague Stephan<br />

Meurisch (31) from Munich talks<br />

about his walk to Tibet without a<br />

cent in his pocket.<br />

Stephan, you have already been on the<br />

road for 115 days. Now you are in Romania.<br />

Where did you stay last night?<br />

Yesterday I met a family pushing a pram in<br />

Carta. I asked them if they knew anybody<br />

who would put me up for a night. They<br />

were on their way to a birthday party.<br />

»Come with us«, they said. After the party,<br />

I pitched my tent in the gar<strong>de</strong>n. That was<br />

an exception though. Usually I stay at<br />

churches, guesthouses or on couches in<br />

the living room – always for free. It works<br />

similar with food.<br />

Do you usually have to explain why you are<br />

travelling without any money? You also raised<br />

donations for the children’s aid project<br />

Shelter 108, supported by your employer<br />

A PART OF PEOPLE’S<br />

ADVENTURES SINCE 1892<br />

within the framework of »Globetrotter engagieren<br />

sich«.<br />

I just tell them my story that I am on my<br />

way from Munich to Tibet. Then I ask if I<br />

could stay overnight. I only got rejected<br />

twice. Once in Austria because they did not<br />

have any space, the other time they immediately<br />

introduced me to somebody else.<br />

Does is get easier the further East you go?<br />

Germany and Austria were easier because<br />

of the language. However, in Romania people<br />

approach me much quicker. They stop<br />

and ask if I am hungry or if I want to go<br />

with them. The other day, a man gave me a<br />

bottle of wine and left.<br />

Have you had any bad experiences yet?<br />

When I was in Transylvania, a man invited<br />

me to his place. When we arrived it<br />

was a shock: such a mess! Then he asked<br />

for my passport. We basically communicated<br />

using hands and feet, the mood<br />

was on the edge, I left quickly. That<br />

night, I met a pastor who let me sleep in<br />

front of his church.<br />

<<br />

The full-length interview on 4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.<strong>de</strong>/longtrailtotibet.<br />

Stephan’s travel blog and further information on Shelter 108 e.V. on longtrailtotibet.com.<br />

ANY<br />

Welcoming families, dinner for free –<br />

Stephan feels fine in Romania.<br />

ADVENTURE.<br />

WEATHER.<br />

FUEL.<br />

Der neue PRIMUS OmniLite TM ist unser neuer Leichtgewichts-<br />

Expeditionskocher – und <strong>de</strong>r technisch am weitesten entwickelte<br />

Kocher, <strong>de</strong>n wir seit unserer Firmengründung 1892 jemals entwickelt<br />

haben. Seine Technologie<br />

stammt vom vielfach ausgezeichneten<br />

OmniFuel TM .<br />

Aber <strong>de</strong>r OmniLite TM ist kleiner,<br />

wiegt weniger und verbraucht weniger<br />

Sprit. I<strong>de</strong>al für beinahe je<strong>de</strong>s<br />

Abenteuer, bei je<strong>de</strong>m Wetter und<br />

mit nahezu je<strong>de</strong>m Brennstoff.<br />

Photos: Stephan Meurisch<br />

nkel.se


30<br />

News<br />

Photography Competition #11:<br />

»Summer Season«<br />

There is no other season that gives you such a feeling of elation like summer time. Our photo competition was<br />

all about the activities and impressions from the season of long holidays and high pressure extending from the<br />

Azores. Congratulation to the winners.<br />

1.<br />

Place Waiting for the summer day to start on the Padjelantale<strong>de</strong>n/Swe<strong>de</strong>n. Photo: Jens Beuttenmüller<br />

»A mobile home cannot look more inviting. Although<br />

nature not quite gets enough consi<strong>de</strong>ration here, the<br />

equipment fits the scene perfectly well. It is not only<br />

Next photo competition:<br />

»Indian Summer«<br />

the colours that catch the eye, although orange is our<br />

favourite, energising colour.«<br />

Martin Haag, online editor Globetrotter Ausrüstung<br />

The summer is slowing down, Indian summer is waiting – we are<br />

looking for the best colours from here to North America.<br />

Submission <strong>de</strong>adline is 30 September <strong>2012</strong>.<br />

More information: 4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.<strong>de</strong>/foto.<br />

2.<br />

Place<br />

Hungry seagulls accompany the trip<br />

from Den Hel<strong>de</strong>r to Texel.<br />

Photo: Tibor Magaslaki<br />

3.<br />

Place<br />

»Very often, it is just about another perspective.<br />

Good photos usually show simple motives,<br />

but from a different perspective.<br />

Everybody knows persistent seagulls. In this<br />

picture, the photographer turned the tables<br />

and pestered the birds. Black and white lends<br />

a more dramatic touch.«<br />

Stephan Glocker,<br />

Editor in Chief 4-<strong>Seasons</strong><br />

On top of the mountain at high<br />

season, on the way to Garmisch –<br />

cycling around the Alpspitze.<br />

Photo: Neal Cheeseman<br />

»Kudos! I am impressed by both the mountain<br />

biker, who dares to go down the Alpspitze, as<br />

well as by the photographer. He did everything<br />

right in this picture: image structure, timing,<br />

lighting, the atmosphere of the weather. A<br />

summer kick on top of the mountain.«<br />

Ingo Wilhelm, editor 4-<strong>Seasons</strong><br />

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Shopping-Marathon<br />

The selection of the products for the Globetrotter summer 2013 range is<br />

already running at full speed. 4-<strong>Seasons</strong> was the fly on the wall at the<br />

»In-house tra<strong>de</strong> fair«, truly a shopping marathon.<br />

Stefan Kluge, the only man in the Globetrotter<br />

clothes shopping team, looks suspicious<br />

at a lace-trimmed women’s tanga slip.<br />

The <strong>de</strong>licate something is part of ExOfficio’s<br />

collection. Of course it is ma<strong>de</strong> of outdoor<br />

functional material. Could it fit into the Globetrotter<br />

range?<br />

»Awesome«, shouts Steve Talacki,<br />

ExOfficio’s sales boss who has travelled to<br />

Hamburg just for the shopping marathon.<br />

Will the tanga be<br />

in the Globetrotter<br />

gui<strong>de</strong> 2013?<br />

He gets the next line of clothes from the<br />

rack and presents more examples with a<br />

big smile.<br />

It has been like this for days and in many<br />

rooms at the same time: It is the time of the<br />

year for the in-house tra<strong>de</strong> fair in the Globetrotter<br />

headquarters in Hamburg. There<br />

would not have been enough time for such<br />

an extensive collection at the tra<strong>de</strong> fair<br />

»OutDoor«, so tra<strong>de</strong>rs bring their latest collections<br />

to Hamburg for inspection.<br />

»It reminds me of teleshopping«, sales boss<br />

Anny Cardinahl laughs. »But we get straight<br />

down to the nitty-gritty. We discuss cuts,<br />

material, colours, prices, the whole program,<br />

and for hours.«<br />

There is a shopping team for each product<br />

range from backpacks to canoes ma<strong>de</strong> up<br />

of Globetrotter employees, editors of the<br />

Globetrotter gui<strong>de</strong> and purchasers. The<br />

in-house tra<strong>de</strong> fair is one of the most<br />

important dates in the calendar and<br />

one of the most exhausting events.<br />

»Your head starts spinning when<br />

Above: The shoe team is discussing La Sportiva’s latest shoes.<br />

Left: Next – the whole Icebreaker collection.<br />

you look at clothes for two<br />

weeks in a row«, says Anny.<br />

Next door, Lowe Alpine tries to<br />

sell their backpacks and hip bags.<br />

In another room, the shoe team<br />

pores over La Sportiva’s collection.<br />

There are almost one<br />

hundred mo<strong>de</strong>ls one after another.<br />

»It’s not the worst«, shoe<br />

purchaser Olaf Friedrich says.<br />

»When big tra<strong>de</strong>rs like Meindl<br />

come to us with their whole range,<br />

it quickly looks like a shoe tsunami<br />

has gushed through the store.«<br />

The tra<strong>de</strong>rs provi<strong>de</strong> special work<br />

books that introduce each product<br />

in every available colour,<br />

so nobody loses orientation. A<br />

purchaser take notes – the<br />

springboard for many more discussions<br />

until the Globetrotter<br />

range for 2013 is ready.<br />

Steve from ExOfficio is exhausted.<br />

The next packed clothes<br />

racks are already in front of the<br />

door, the whole Merino<br />

Icebreak er collection. Will they<br />

have tanga slips too? (SG)<br />

The work book to note down first impressions for discussions later.<br />

Jetzt endlich auch in<br />

Deutschland erhältlich –<br />

exklusiv bei Globetrotter!<br />

FIT FOR<br />

ADVENTURE<br />

www.chacos.com


34 News News 35<br />

»Meindl I<strong>de</strong>ntity«: Organic Leather<br />

Inclu<strong>de</strong>s Guarantee of Origin<br />

It is common to know which country your food is from. So why is it not the same with the natural product<br />

leather? The »I<strong>de</strong>ntity« mo<strong>de</strong>ls of the Bavarian shoemaker Meindl should ensure appropriate animal welfare<br />

– thanks to organic leather.<br />

Organic products guarantee high quality and<br />

the best possible animal welfare. Furthermore,<br />

they are often produced locally and<br />

conserve resources. This is the philosophy<br />

of the local farmers in Bavarian Chiemgau<br />

and the area around Salzburg too. They<br />

leave their cows on rich green pastures – un-<br />

til the company Alpenrind evaluates them in<br />

the bor<strong>de</strong>r area of Germany and Austria only<br />

a short distance to the factory.<br />

The German tannery Heinen will take the<br />

skins. They have <strong>de</strong>veloped a carbon-neutral<br />

and sustainable technique for this.<br />

Dur ing tannery, each piece of leather gets<br />

its own i<strong>de</strong>ntification number so it can be<br />

allocated later on to its original place of<br />

origin. Credibility through tracking is the<br />

most important value of the project »I<strong>de</strong>ntity«<br />

for Lukas Meindl, who leads the traditional<br />

company with his brother Lars. »The<br />

leather will only get into production if the<br />

quality is perfect and the origin is completely<br />

documented.«<br />

It takes 200 working steps at Meindl’s own<br />

The »Meindl I<strong>de</strong>ntity« cows grow up on Bavarian and Austrian organic farms.<br />

factories in Kirchanschöring and Slovenia to<br />

make a proper shoe. One cow skin makes<br />

eight to ten pair of shoes. In the end, the<br />

i<strong>de</strong>ntity number of an eco cow gets punched<br />

into the insi<strong>de</strong> of the shoe’s upper and written<br />

down in the shoe pass that comes with every<br />

shoe. To track back the shoe’s history on a<br />

map as far down the line as to the town near<br />

the farm, the buyer can enter the five-digit<br />

co<strong>de</strong> online on i<strong>de</strong>ntity-le<strong>de</strong>r.<strong>de</strong>. The name of<br />

the farm and the cow is not public because of<br />

legal reasons. Meindl knows it though.<br />

There are already four shoe types featuring<br />

the i<strong>de</strong>ntity system, for example the casual<br />

shoes Linosa and Tessin (for women and<br />

men). The I<strong>de</strong>ntity-family will grow next<br />

winter with the elegant boot Schladming.<br />

Above: the mo<strong>de</strong>l Linosa I<strong>de</strong>ntity.<br />

Below: Handcraft in the tannery.<br />

The eco-friendly material is about 25%<br />

more expensive, so the i<strong>de</strong>ntity mo<strong>de</strong>ls are<br />

around 15 percent more expensive than<br />

their counterpart ma<strong>de</strong> of conventional<br />

leather. »There is a lot of effort behind<br />

I<strong>de</strong>ntity«, explains Lukas Meindl. However,<br />

sustainability, local products and gapless<br />

transparency is very important to him. So,<br />

now you know, Meindl is the first ever shoe<br />

company offering proof of origin. <<br />

Photos: Archiv Meindl<br />

Finally: There’s More Than Pictures<br />

Always won<strong>de</strong>red about the stories<br />

behind the pictures? 4-<strong>Seasons</strong> is<br />

now also available in English!<br />

From now on, you will have three choices<br />

to read Globetrotter’s customer magazine<br />

in the world language:<br />

• Click on 4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.<strong>de</strong> to read the<br />

articles in English as HTML.<br />

• Download the complete magazine as<br />

PDF from the website.<br />

• Get the English version of 4-<strong>Seasons</strong><br />

from anywhere you are with the iPad-<br />

App from Globetrotter.<br />

Enjoy the whole story and the pictures:<br />

4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.<strong>de</strong>/english.<br />

<<br />

Dr. TOmaS JElinEk: HEalTH TipS FOr GlObETrOTTEr<br />

The nasty souvenir:<br />

Hepatitis A<br />

Hepatitis A is an infectious disease of the liver and a type of<br />

jaundice. The inci<strong>de</strong>nce of the virus is high in warmer regions<br />

like Africa, Central and South America, east and southeast<br />

Asia as well as India. It mainly spreads via contaminated food<br />

or water. The time between infection and the appearance of the<br />

symptoms is between two and six weeks. Children usually do<br />

not have any problems with Hepatitis A. When adults are infected,<br />

typical symptoms are initially a lack of appetite, nausea,<br />

vomiting and pain in the right upper abdomen. After a few<br />

days, the skin will turn yellow and the urine will become dark.<br />

There will not be any permanent damage. To prevent an infection<br />

with the Hepatitis A virus, it is necessary to keep high hygiene<br />

standards, especially when it comes to food. Best is<br />

freshly cooked food because the virus is killed when heated to<br />

over 70 <strong>de</strong>grees centigra<strong>de</strong>. Be careful with food from a buffet<br />

when it has been outsi<strong>de</strong> for a while, and with salads and fruits<br />

that you have not peeled yourself. You do not have to worry<br />

about drinks out of sealed bottles. Avoid ice cubes or tap water.<br />

The disease can be best prevented by vaccination: two injections<br />

between six and eighteen months will give you protection<br />

for 25 to 30 years.<br />

<<br />

Dr. Jelinek leads berlin’s centre for travel and tropical medicine (bctropen.<strong>de</strong>).<br />

96 Traumtour Traumtour 97<br />

The Soutwest of Utah is<br />

red, hot and stony. But in<br />

between the wasteland,<br />

there is one of the greatest<br />

natural won<strong>de</strong>rs on earth.<br />

A magical world of rocks<br />

and lights. Make sure<br />

you’re ready when<br />

you enter...<br />

Online, as PDF and on Medium: your iPad: 4-seasons the English Globetrotter<br />

version of 4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.<br />

Format: Ssp 82 x 122 mm, 4c<br />

ET: 24.8.12<br />

Hält warm und<br />

trocken, bietet<br />

Schutz und Komfort<br />

und trägt so gut<br />

wie nicht auf …<br />

Geld ist das Survival-Kit für Menschen in Not<br />

— wenn wir es gemeinsam dazu machen.<br />

Machen<br />

Sie’s gut!<br />

Wer<strong>de</strong>n Sie<br />

Mitglied.<br />

glsbank.<strong>de</strong><br />

das macht Sinn


Photo: Fjällräven<br />

36 News News 37<br />

On your Sled, Ready, Steady Go!<br />

You are dreaming about a dog<br />

sled adventure in Scandinavia?<br />

Here you are!<br />

Polar 2013: One 4-<strong>Seasons</strong> rea<strong>de</strong>r taking<br />

part.<br />

At the Fjällräven Polar in April 2013, twenty<br />

dog sleds will again sli<strong>de</strong> from Signaldalen<br />

in Norway to Swedish Lapland – 330<br />

kilometres in five days. Each participant<br />

will steer their own sled, take care of the<br />

animals and experience a late-winter outdoor<br />

dream. Part of the adventure is camping<br />

in the snow, sitting around a warm<br />

camp fire and probably spending nights<br />

un<strong>de</strong>r the Northern Lights.<br />

4-<strong>Seasons</strong> took part in the last Fjällräven<br />

Polar last spring and will tell you the whole<br />

story in the next issue which is due at the<br />

beginning of November. You will also get to<br />

know how you could get into this adventure.<br />

4-<strong>Seasons</strong> has one place for Fjällräven<br />

Polar 2013 to give away exclusively to<br />

one of our rea<strong>de</strong>rs.<br />

You can take part from mid November. App-<br />

ly online and find all the information on<br />

their website: fjallraven.<strong>de</strong>.<br />

Kaltenbrunner live<br />

The mountaineer gives a<br />

presentation in Munich.<br />

Passionate about eight-thousan<strong>de</strong>rs:<br />

Gerline Kaltenbrunner.<br />

On 18 September (8 pm), Gerlin<strong>de</strong> Kaltenbrunner<br />

and her partner Ralf Dujmovits will<br />

talk about their expeditions to K2 & Co. in a<br />

one and a half hour multimedia show in<br />

Munich‘s CinemaxX. Pre-book »Lei<strong>de</strong>nschaft<br />

8000 – Tiefe überall« at Globetrotter<br />

Munich (Isartorplatz 8). 18 euros, 15 euros<br />

< for GlobetrotterCard hol<strong>de</strong>rs.<br />

<<br />

Photo: Archiv Kaltenbrunner<br />

36 G<br />

Photo: Michael Hancock<br />

Trekking with a Double Benefit<br />

Volunteer gui<strong>de</strong>s help children in Guatemala.<br />

VOGEL FLIEGT,<br />

FISCH SCHWIMMT,<br />

POWER HOYER THROUGH WANDERT.<br />

THE DARKNESS<br />

Die Spot bietet optimale Beleuchtung für je<strong>de</strong> Situation.<br />

KATEGORIE TREK | TATRA GTX ®<br />

Bequemes und funktionelles Schuhwerk, das<br />

festen und soli<strong>de</strong>n Halt für schwere Treks o<strong>de</strong>r<br />

mehrtägige Wan<strong>de</strong>rungen mit viel Gepäck<br />

bietet. Teilweise bedingt steigeisenfest.<br />

Hiking in Guatemala can be good<br />

for you and street children.<br />

Globetrotter supports the aid<br />

project with equipment.<br />

Walking across Guatemala’s fascinating<br />

volcanoes, crossing tropical forests and<br />

lively valleys: The organisation Quetzaltrekkers<br />

has been offering international hiking<br />

tours since 1995. The gui<strong>de</strong>s are from all<br />

over the world, too, working voluntarily. The<br />

proceeds of the gui<strong>de</strong>d tours are for the<br />

children. The E<strong>de</strong>lac association, financed<br />

through Quetzaltrekkers, runs a school in<br />

the city Quetzaltenango, offering a school<br />

education to around 200 children from<br />

poor backgrounds. Many of the school-leav-<br />

ALPENÜBERQUERUNG IN<br />

49,5 STUNDEN NONSTOP<br />

HANWAG ProTeam: Thorsten Hoyer<br />

Extrem-Weitwan<strong>de</strong>rer<br />

www.hanwag.<strong>de</strong><br />

ers who come from a broken home or have<br />

lived on the streets now found a job as a<br />

carpenter or teacher and have started their<br />

own family. Part of the aid project is not<br />

only the school but also a house (El Hogar)<br />

where children and young people are looked<br />

after and receive advice from drug rehabilitation<br />

to family planning. Some street<br />

children stay at El Hagor for a longer time.<br />

Participants of the trekking tour can rent<br />

their gear on the spot. Here, Globetrotter<br />

gets into the game: »It is an exciting project<br />

and we are happy to provi<strong>de</strong> the<br />

equipment«, explains Irish Tews, responsible<br />

for Globetrotter’s sponsoring.<br />

Brand-new sleeping bags, backpacks,<br />

crockery and cutlery are on their way to<br />

the Quetzaltrekkers.<br />

<<br />

more information about the tour and the aid project: quetzaltrekkers.com.<br />

Watch the film clip on whywehike.actualitymedia.org/.


38 News News 39<br />

InVolVeD<br />

This is Where Your<br />

Meru Shirt is Growing!<br />

Globetrotter’s own brand focuses on organic cotton. High quality,<br />

affordable, ecofriendly resources, fair production – it has never been<br />

easier to take responsibility.<br />

Conventional farming of cotton leads<br />

to massive environmental problems<br />

in extensive areas of the world.<br />

Fields have to be irrigated (approximately<br />

the volume of ten baths full of water for the<br />

fibre of just one shirt), a fact which caused<br />

Good for human and environment: the resource for Meru tops.<br />

the drying up of the Aral Sea in Asia. Onecrop<br />

agriculture requires lots of pestici<strong>de</strong>s<br />

which impair pickers‘ health. Many workers<br />

do not earn enough for a living. And<br />

child labour is no exception on cotton<br />

farms and in production plants.<br />

Not with Meru. The brand is operated by<br />

the Ruofamily, a cooperation of seven leading<br />

sports retailers from four different<br />

countries. Globetrotter’s textile experts<br />

from Hamburg are in charge of the <strong>de</strong>velopment.<br />

Since 2011, Globetrotter offers<br />

two Meru T-Shirts and a hoodie tailored<br />

with organic cotton for men and women in<br />

several colours.<br />

Meru found a strong purchasing and manufacturing<br />

partner for the tops, namely<br />

the Swiss Company Remei AG. They have<br />

been producing fibres, yarns and clothing<br />

out of organic cotton for 20 years un<strong>de</strong>r the<br />

name of bioRe. Besi<strong>de</strong>s Meru, brands like<br />

Mammut and Elkline are amongst the<br />

purchasers. Globetrotter also has bioRe<br />

products in their range.<br />

8,300 organic farms in India and Tanzania<br />

bioRe purchases raw materials from 8,300<br />

small farmers in India and Tanzania. They<br />

profit from the cotton farming in several<br />

ways: economically, because the farmers<br />

do not need a credit to buy the chemicals;<br />

healthwise, because the farmers do not<br />

poison themselves by using chemicals and<br />

at the same time gain additional food by<br />

practicing crop rotation; agriculturally, because<br />

organic farming protects the fertility<br />

of the ground. At the same time, the stan-<br />

dard of bioRe cotton guarantees the farmers<br />

social advantages such as a 15 percent<br />

price bonus and an association for<br />

farmers with member participation.<br />

The farming is controlled by in<strong>de</strong>pen<strong>de</strong>nt<br />

inspections according to organic regulations<br />

of the European Union. Remei AG<br />

Photos: Remei AG<br />

The plantation is in line with the organic<br />

farming regulations of the European<br />

Union.<br />

also compensates for its CO 2 footprint in<br />

India and Tanzania: It is co-financing<br />

3,150 organic gas cooking facilities and<br />

4,200 smoke-free kitchen stoves, thus enhancing<br />

air quality and protecting forests.<br />

Moreover, each cooking facility saves enough<br />

CO 2 annually to produce and transport<br />

500 T-Shirts.<br />

Globetrotter on site<br />

There are strict rules governing processing<br />

such as no child labour, safety at the working<br />

place and appropriate renumeration.<br />

An in<strong>de</strong>pen<strong>de</strong>nt testing institute monitors<br />

compliance. So, Remei gets most of their<br />

production line certified according to<br />

SA8000, an international standard to improve<br />

working conditions. In addition, the<br />

bioRe foundation runs social projects in<br />

India and Tanzania which to date boast 20<br />

town schools and a mobile medical practice.<br />

In November 2010, Globetrotter<br />

colleague Christina Holst from the textile<br />

<strong>de</strong>partment inspected bioRe projects in India.<br />

»I was impressed how much they put<br />

their heart into those projects«, says the<br />

Meru product <strong>de</strong>veloper. It is a fight<br />

against genetically modified cotton: »It<br />

brings in a higher income in the short run«,<br />

explains Christina Holst. »However, many<br />

farmers run into <strong>de</strong>bts because of the ex-<br />

InVolVeD<br />

Available at Globetrotter: Meru’s Tawa<br />

Hoo<strong>de</strong>d Jacket ma<strong>de</strong> of bioRe cotton.<br />

pensive, annual, genetically modified<br />

seeds and the artificial fertilizer. In the<br />

long run, organic cotton is the better<br />

choice for farmers.«<br />

Meru <strong>de</strong>volepers know what they are doing<br />

when they entrust the production of<br />

the tops to Remei AG. From now on, customers<br />

can also track back their clothes<br />

on the website (remei.ch/produkte-traceability/),<br />

right up to the farming area.<br />

Globe trotter salespeople lead by example:<br />

The orange and black T-Shirts are<br />

ma<strong>de</strong> of bioRe cotton.<br />

<<br />

Vital momentum<br />

Six new electric bicycles help<br />

Globetrotter employees to get from<br />

A to B – giving momentum to CO ²<br />

reduction.<br />

It is exactly 4.1 kilometres from »BKS«<br />

to »NHB«, Globetrotter employees say,<br />

meaning the distance between the headquarter<br />

at Hamburg’s Bargkoppelstieg<br />

and the logistics centre at Neue Höltigbaum.<br />

This road and many others can<br />

Bernd Repenning (right) from E-Collection<br />

han<strong>de</strong>d the bikes over to Fabian<br />

Nednza.<br />

now be cycled with six E-Bikes instead of<br />

travelling in cars. In June, Globetrotter<br />

put the electric bicycles ma<strong>de</strong> by Hamburg-based<br />

E-Collection into service.<br />

They are pe<strong>de</strong>lecs, so Globis still have to<br />

pedal but with the help of a 250-watt<br />

motor acting pretty much like a permanent<br />

tail wind.<br />

Fabian Nedza is Globetrotter Representative<br />

for »Corporate Social Responsibility«<br />

and explains: »After introducing a CO rule ²<br />

for company cars two years ago, as well as<br />

the use of the electric Merce<strong>de</strong>s Vito for<br />

our internal transport of products since<br />

2011, with the E-Bikes we have taken<br />

another step towards the reduction of CO - ²<br />

emissions caused by mobility.«<br />

The E-Bikes speed along at 25 km/h over a<br />

distance of up to 80 kilometres. Enough to<br />

go to appointments in the city, such as at<br />

»JFS« - or how do they call the Jungfernsteig<br />

at Globetrotter?<br />

<<br />

Photo: Globetrotter Ausrüstung


40<br />

Projects Projects 41<br />

Scottish<br />

Cliff-Climbing<br />

They are called Old Man of Stoer and Old Man of Hoy, and stand<br />

off Scotland’s ragged coast, lonely and remote like widowers<br />

turned into stone. Four German climbers – not quite the youngest<br />

vintage either – went off to the sea stacks for a stormy adventure.<br />

Photos: Ralf Gantzhorn | Text: Ingo Wilhelm


42 Projects<br />

Projects 43<br />

When building a bridge to the<br />

other si<strong>de</strong> you use a static robe.<br />

Effort equals happiness, especially<br />

when you climb above the water.<br />

Material<br />

battle with<br />

mobile<br />

security<br />

<strong>de</strong>vices like<br />

climbing nuts<br />

(in the<br />

foreground).<br />

How do you get on top of that thing?<br />

»How to climb a sea stack« in 6 steps:<br />

1. Climber A swims to<br />

sea stack with rope.<br />

3. Lead climbing to<br />

the top.<br />

5. Climb back along the<br />

rope bridge.<br />

2. Climber B transfers<br />

via the rope bridge.<br />

4. Abseil without swinging<br />

too far off the cliff.<br />

6. Pull rope back. One<br />

carabiner stays.


44<br />

Projects Projects 45<br />

»Being on the very top<br />

of a tiny cliff nose is just<br />

unbelievable.«<br />

The first step on the cliff is always the most uncomfortable one.<br />

It wasn’t always good weather. Very seldom, actually.<br />

The Old Man of Hoy has<br />

an overhang up his sleeve.


46 Projects<br />

Above the roaring sea, climbers have to be able to un<strong>de</strong>rstand each other without words.<br />

The water is 10 <strong>de</strong>grees<br />

cold and fulmars shit<br />

on your helmet.<br />

Excellent, that's where we wanted to be!<br />

Sometimes, Ralf Gantzhorn shakes his head in disbelief<br />

when he talks about his project. »It is a bit crazy how much<br />

effort we put into such a short time of climbing«, the 48year<br />

old from Hamburg thinks out loud. »At the beginning, we had<br />

to swim through water which was 10 <strong>de</strong>grees cold. Our security<br />

system on the cliff was nerve-wrecking. Not to forget about the<br />

brooding fulmar, no fair players at all: They leave badly smelling<br />

secretion behind as soon as you come too close…« However, he<br />

will never forget about the two, three and sometimes five rope<br />

lengths: »Being on top of the tiny rock projections, only water below<br />

us, the waves dashing around us, the roaring of the sea, the<br />

screams of the birds – it was just an unbelievable scene.«<br />

The sea stacks project of Ralf Gantzhorn and his three climbing ><br />

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48<br />

Projects<br />

There is just enough space on top of the Old Man of Hoy to celebrate.<br />

buddies started in May 2011. Stacks refers to the layers of sandtone<br />

making up the pillars of up to 150 metres in height. »The<br />

weather in Scotland usually gets to be the best in May«, explains<br />

Ralf, who lost his heart to the Highlands when studying geology in<br />

Aber<strong>de</strong>en. »However, this was not to be the case for us. It was the<br />

worst weather I had ever experienced over there. Stable bad weather,<br />

one could say. Only one day without rain in three and a half<br />

weeks.« So the German Bravehearts only climbed three of the<br />

planned five sea stacks. Those were a league of their own though.<br />

»Go steeper« – the remedy for stress with birds.<br />

Take the 60 meter high Old Man of Stoer in the very far northwest<br />

of Scotland’s mainland. Even when the ti<strong>de</strong> is in, the water<br />

splashes around the cliff. So, that is how you start: clothes off, put<br />

them into a waterproof bag, swim to the foot of the old man while<br />

holding on to the end of the rope. Then you have to fight through a<br />

carpet of seaweed on the way to the cliff island, put your clothes<br />

back on and build a rope bridge so the other climbers can move<br />

hand over hand along it. Next get onto the sandstone which is<br />

nice ly rough due to the salty air and climb up mostly lower seventh-gra<strong>de</strong><br />

routes (UIAA). You need to secure everything with<br />

climbing nuts and other mobile <strong>de</strong>vices as bolts are frowned upon.<br />

And look for mostly steep routes because if there is no cliff balcony<br />

there are no bird nests. Up and up, soon you are on top! At last<br />

you can dangle your legs over the North Atlantic and be happy. On<br />

the way down, abseil across the overhang cliff while dangling<br />

above the foaming sea like a little flag in the wind.<br />

Sometimes the surge of waves makes it impossible to approach<br />

the sea stack. »We waited for three days on the steep coast of the<br />

Orkney Islands but we could only dream about the sea stack in<br />

front of us«, says Ralf. »We would have had to swim 60 metres but<br />

Ralf Gantzhorn (right) and his climbing buddies.<br />

the wave breakers would have turned us into crab food.« It is not<br />

the first time he has approached such a climbing adventure with a<br />

black humour. During the 1990s, the well-known alpine photographer<br />

managed some first ascents on the Outer Hebri<strong>de</strong>s, approaching<br />

them from a sailing boat. He named them after songs<br />

by Helge Schnei<strong>de</strong>r like »Katzenklo« and »Orang Utan Klaus«.<br />

They are still called this way in climbing gui<strong>de</strong>s of today.<br />

He <strong>de</strong>finitely wants to go back for the two cliff towers he missed<br />

this time. »Sea stacks have such a fantastic playful character«, he<br />

muses. »When you are a climber and you haven’t climbed a sea<br />

stack yet, you have missed out on the very magical yet perhaps at<br />

the same time absurd si<strong>de</strong> of this kind of sport.«<br />

<<br />

From the Sea Stack to the Book<br />

Sea stacks play an outstanding role<br />

in the new large­format book by Ralf<br />

Gantzhorn and journalist Jan Bertram.<br />

Title: »Schottland – Outdoor­Erlebnis<br />

am Ran<strong>de</strong> Europas«. It is all about<br />

cliff climbing and trekking through the<br />

Highlands, about pleasurable hikes<br />

around the lochs as well as winter<br />

adventures on Ben Nevis. It inclu<strong>de</strong>s<br />

beautiful pictures, <strong>de</strong>tailed <strong>de</strong>scriptions<br />

and maps. Bergverlag Rother,<br />

227 pages, 49.90 €, Globetrotter or<strong>de</strong>r<br />

number 18.46.63. Additionally, the<br />

fourth edition of »Rother­Wan<strong>de</strong>rführer<br />

Schottland« by Ralf Ganzhorn just<br />

came out, incl. 50 tours. 160 pages,<br />

14.90 €, incl. GPS­Tracks, Globetrotter<br />

or<strong>de</strong>r number 15.00.82. Both books<br />

available in German.


50 Travel Tip<br />

Itchy feet in Palatinate Forest<br />

The Palatinate forest trail runs right across the Palatinate Forest, Germany’s<br />

biggest forest area. Don’t worry if you miss the forest for the trees: Fantastic<br />

sandstone scenery and cliff castles will show you the right way.<br />

Impressive from<br />

far and wi<strong>de</strong>…<br />

… as well as very close: the<br />

clump of castles Altdahn-<br />

Grafendahn-Tanstein.<br />

In-<strong>de</strong>pth access to new worlds<br />

along the forest path.<br />

Photos: Diana Haas<br />

If you happen to see Elwetritsche, the legendary animal, you<br />

know you got lost in the magic of the Palatinate Forest«, the<br />

war<strong>de</strong>n of our guesthouse in Kaiserslautern had mumbled<br />

when he said good bye. He did not want to tell us more. So we<br />

started our way on the Palatinate forest path with a secret in the<br />

bag. At the beginning it was rather dark, at least that’s what the<br />

path had in store: Finsterbrunnertal, meaning: dark valley of<br />

wells. The valley marked the end of the first stage. We keep on<br />

walking and realise quickly that the Palatinate Forest is not dark<br />

at all. Instead, it is floo<strong>de</strong>d with sunlight, inspiring to the<br />

wan<strong>de</strong>rer’s heart, possibly a bit enchanted. The path through the<br />

Karlstal gorge is similar, accompanied by the Moosalbe, a constant<br />

gabbling river. Gradually we get a feeling of the magic the<br />

war<strong>de</strong>n of our guesthouse was talking about. The path passes<br />

more and more twisted and crazy rock formations like the Seelenfelsen<br />

(soul rock) just after Heltersberg. It is worn out by water<br />

and wind, riddled with holes, notches and cuts. Saufelsen,<br />

Vor<strong>de</strong>rer and Hinterer Rappenkopf are the next odd monolithes<br />

in the forest.<br />

Slowly the forest rises up: the biggest rocks are real reefs, far above<br />

the leafy canopy. During the Middle Ages, there used to be<br />

many castles on top and in them. Apparently they cut around 500<br />

castles out of the soft red sandstone. Around 80 of them have<br />

survived till today, smoothed by wars and the ravages of time. One<br />

of the most impressive ruins is Gräfenstein near Merzalben. The<br />

castle is said to have been built in the 12th century and has the<br />

only heptagonal donjon in Germany. You feel drawn to the donjon,<br />

your steps higher and higher in the spell of the centuries. Up at<br />

the top, the view above the Palatinate Forest from the top of the<br />

tower is truly magic. The hilly face of the uplands stretches into<br />

the distance, looking as if it was covered with plush.<br />

And then, the sandstone rocks come alive.<br />

The Dahner Felsenland is not only steeped in legends; walking<br />

along the forest path for a few days feels in<strong>de</strong>ed a bit enchanted, if<br />

not spooky. Especially in the morning and in the evening when the<br />

world is caught in the twilight and the red sandstone rocks come<br />

alive. A face seems to appear in the sha<strong>de</strong>, and a troll is <strong>de</strong>finitely<br />

hiding over there. Scenes straight out of fantasy novels seem to be<br />

so close – as if somebody has looted Utah and brought new sandstone<br />

sculptures over here. There are only more trees around here.<br />

The Jungfernsprung is in<strong>de</strong>ed a sandstone wall with a legend. It is<br />

set 70 meters higher than the town of Dahn.<br />

In the evening, we have a Schnaps with Rainer who lives in Dahn,<br />

whom we had a drink with earlier in our guesthouse. He tells us<br />

Dansenberg<br />

how the rock got its name. There was a virgin who escaped a shady<br />

robber­knight and jumped down the wall. Instead of getting smasHermershed<br />

to pieces, she lan<strong>de</strong>d very gently, God’s protective bergerhof hand over<br />

her. At the same moment, a fountain bubbled out of the rock.<br />

Rainer knows his world of sagas well. We remember the secret and<br />

ask about the Elwetritsches. He lowers his voice secretively:<br />

»You’ve walked all the way to here and you haven’t seen any?« We<br />

shake our heads. »Today is full moon, the chances are good.« In<br />

the same breath he adds that you only had the real Palatinate<br />

forest experience if you saw the moon shining on top of the trees.<br />

The perfect place to see the scenery would be from the clump of<br />

castles Altdahn­Grafendahn­Tanstein. Before we know what happens<br />

we are carried away by the Palatinate enthusiasm and their<br />

hospitality – ending up on top of the castle.<br />

A big pale moon shines on the glittering leafy canopy, the fog<br />

hangs heavy and wet in the valley. Sud<strong>de</strong>nly there is a cry, it<br />

sounds like a screech owl. Rainer solves the riddle: Elwetritschs<br />

are similar to a birdlike creature, a cross­breed of grouse, elf and<br />

troll but they sound different. So we might not find them today.<br />

However, there is a great forest magic in the cold air. Even without<br />

the mythical bird. Ingo Hübner<br />

Excellent lookouts from the top of rock castles.<br />

Forest as far as you can walk<br />

Along the forest path<br />

The Palatinate forest path (Pfälzer<br />

Waldpfad) runs for 142 km from<br />

Kaiserslautern to Schweigen-Rechtenbach.<br />

It is divi<strong>de</strong>d into nine stages<br />

Kaiserslautern<br />

Finsterbrunnertal<br />

Trippstadt<br />

Heltersberg<br />

Waldfischbach-<br />

Johanniskreuz<br />

Burgalben<br />

Rodalben<br />

Merzalben<br />

Hauenstein<br />

Pirmasens Dahn<br />

Erlenbach<br />

Bobenthal<br />

0 km 10<br />

Schweigen-Rechtenbach<br />

20 km<br />

between 16 and 23 km. Rodalber<br />

Felsenwan<strong>de</strong>rweg is worth a si<strong>de</strong> trip.<br />

Book a week of hiking<br />

Wikinger Reisen offers an eight day<br />

gui<strong>de</strong>d hike tour on the Palatinate<br />

forest path Ludwigshafen and the nearby Weinsteig.<br />

Overnight stay in Hauenstein. Phone:<br />

+49 23 31/90 47 42, wikinger.<strong>de</strong>.<br />

Speyer<br />

More information<br />

Brochures and more offers: Pfalz<br />

Touristik e.V., phone: +49 63 21/391<br />

60, pfaelzer-wan<strong>de</strong>rwege.<strong>de</strong> as well as<br />

Rheinland-Pfalz Karlsruhe Tourismus GmbH, phone:<br />

+49 261/91 52 00, wan<strong>de</strong>rwun<strong>de</strong>r.info.<br />

Rhein<br />

More information on 4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.tv/pfaelzerwald.<br />

Travel Tip 51


Kjerag Bolten, Lysefjord, Norwegen<br />

Spannen<strong>de</strong> Ausrüstungs- und Reisetipps von<br />

Globetrotter Experten zum Thema Trekking unter<br />

www.4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.TV/trekking<br />

Träume … … leben.


54<br />

Travel<br />

Best of<br />

Mecklenburg<br />

Text: Niels Hoffmann | Photos: Lars Hoffmann<br />

If there is anybody who knows the Mecklenburg Lake District like<br />

the back of his hand, it is Lars and Niels Hoffmann. The brothers<br />

told 4-<strong>Seasons</strong> their perfect three day tour – a pleasure triathlon<br />

with hiking boots, canoe and bicycle.<br />

Travel<br />

55


56 Travel Travel 57<br />

Lars and Niels’ plan: fitting all their favourite tours<br />

in Mecklenburg into a long weekend.<br />

An Indian Summer does not only exist on the other si<strong>de</strong> of the big pond but also on East German lakes.<br />

What a sound - the rustling of al<strong>de</strong>r and birch leaves and<br />

reeds in the wind. Our eyes wan<strong>de</strong>r across the sky. Glowing<br />

tree crowns sway above us as we are approach the<br />

dark blue Käbelick Lake. Finally <strong>autumn</strong> has arrived, an event I<br />

have been longing for the whole year. Behind us, a three kilometre<br />

hike from the train station in Kratzeburg. In front of us, a long<br />

weekend. We want to enjoy the best spots around Mecklenburg.<br />

We are going to make the most of the Indian summer at the Mecklenburg<br />

Lake District for three days. We will not get tired of looking<br />

at the colours of <strong>autumn</strong>, we want to hike through the <strong>de</strong>nse forest<br />

of the Müritz National Park, paddle with and against the wind<br />

across lonely lakes and cycle around the largest lake in North Ger-<br />

many, the Müritz. You could call it a Mecklenburg Triathlon. Our<br />

ambitions are not so sporty though and our tours rather short. We<br />

just want to be outsi<strong>de</strong> and experience the remote landscape of<br />

Northeast Germany.<br />

Silence is never more fulfilling than during <strong>autumn</strong>.<br />

The Mecklenburg Lake District is the largest coherent region of<br />

lakes and canals in Germany. At the same time it is so sparely<br />

populated like nowhere else in the country. No industry dares to<br />

move here, so nature is safe. If you make your way over here, you<br />

are looking for silence and going back to the roots – and there’s >


58 Travel Travel 59<br />

Heart-warming atmosphere after a chilly night. The region’s typical means of transportation: the canoe. Getting around by bicycle is just another way.<br />

Hoffmanns’ Müritz Triathlon by Canoe, Bicycle and on Foot<br />

Area: One of the biggest nature reservations<br />

is right in the middle of the<br />

Mecklenburg Lake District: the Müritz<br />

National Park. There are special park<br />

rules (mueritz-nationalpark.<strong>de</strong>). We<br />

chose a weekend in October, our<br />

favourite season!<br />

Hiking: Not a classic hiking area but<br />

several won<strong>de</strong>rful paths. Our hiking<br />

tour leads from Kratzeburg to Granzin<br />

along the south bank of the Käbelick<br />

Lake. Further tips: Autumn tour<br />

through the Serrahner Buchenwald.<br />

It is one of the rare original forests in<br />

Europe. Unesco World Heritage.<br />

Paddling: Our tour went from the<br />

young Havel to Granzin to the Jäthensee<br />

and back. Many canoe rental<br />

stations in that area. Beginners<br />

should get safety advice. Round trip<br />

possible, some canoe stations offer a<br />

pick-up service for paddler and boat.<br />

Cycling: Start in Granzin and go<br />

straight across the National Park to<br />

Boeker Mühle, passing the towns of<br />

Rechlin and Vipperow along the Müritz<br />

bank going all the way to Ludorf.<br />

Next stage: along the west bank to<br />

Waren and further on through the<br />

forest of the National Park to Granzin.<br />

The street lined with chestnut and<br />

oak trees is a dream! Many towns<br />

offer accommodation especially for<br />

cyclists (bettundbike.<strong>de</strong>).<br />

Getting There: By train to Waren<br />

an <strong>de</strong>r Müritz or Neustrelitz, then to<br />

Kolpinsee<br />

Malchow<br />

Gotthun<br />

Röbel<br />

Wan<strong>de</strong>rung<br />

Kanutour<br />

Radtour<br />

Waren<br />

Speck<br />

Müritz<br />

Boek<br />

Granzin<br />

Krienke<br />

Kratzeburg<br />

Kabelicksee<br />

Rechlin<br />

Vietzen<br />

Mirow Wesenberg<br />

Kratzeburg. Travellers by train receive<br />

an environmental discount at some<br />

service stations like canoe rental<br />

shops. By car it takes two hours from<br />

Berlin, two and a half hours from<br />

Find the tour in all <strong>de</strong>tails on 4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.<strong>de</strong>/Mecklenburg.<br />

Neubran<strong>de</strong>nburg<br />

Penzlin<br />

Hamburg.<br />

Bicycle, Canoe,<br />

Thousands of<br />

Tips: Andreas<br />

Landau from Kor-<br />

Neustrelitz<br />

moranKanutouring, Granzin 38,<br />

17237 Kratzeburg-<br />

Lychen Granzin, phone<br />

+49 3 98 22/298<br />

88, kormorankanutouring.<strong>de</strong>.<br />

Sleep, Eat and<br />

Relax: Romantikhotel Gutshaus<br />

Ludorf, Ron<strong>de</strong>ll 7, 17207 Ludorf/<br />

Müritz, phone +49 3 99 31/84 00,<br />

gutshaus-ludorf.<strong>de</strong>.<br />

never a more fulfilling time than during the <strong>autumn</strong>. Of course,<br />

the water might be warmer during summer, the weather mil<strong>de</strong>r<br />

and the days longer. But not until the majority of tourists have<br />

left, the first campgrounds have been closed, and the fog blurs<br />

each morning, does the landscape begin to claim back its relaxed<br />

atmosphere. We want to start relaxed too. So, light packing is<br />

better packing: sleeping bag, sleeping mat, tarp, camping stove,<br />

kettle, some food and spare clothes and binoculars around the<br />

neck – we don’t need much more for the next few days. Lightfooted<br />

we hike eight kilometres to the next town accompanied by<br />

a whispering wind.<br />

We have arranged to meet Andreas Landau right next to the Havel.<br />

Later on, the river will run through Berlin and into the Elbe. Andreas’<br />

relaxed nature fits perfectly to this spot of land. He was one of<br />

the first to open a canoe and bicycle rental service in the Mecklenburg<br />

Lake District region, focusing on nature-friendly tourism. He<br />

only hires out a certain amount of canoes to prevent over canoeing<br />

and too much noise during high season. It should not get too busy<br />

and the sensitive lakesi<strong>de</strong> should not be damaged. Not today. We<br />

are the only guests at the rental station.<br />

So we get into our boats, following the Havel to the south. The<br />

small waters connect each lake like a long pearl line. The pearls<br />

are edged by large belts of reeds. Behind that, meadows and forests<br />

sprawl out, the landscape is vast. The clouds have left with<br />

the summer tourists, a clear blue sky spans above us. We are get-<br />

ting there. The surface of the water feels untouched – a fascinating<br />

illusion. When I look back I can see how the waves we just<br />

created curl up and then disappear. I like the thought not leaving<br />

anything behind, not even a trace, nothing. We just let ourselves<br />

drift. In the middle of the Zotzensee we try to keep still like a<br />

heron. The heron wins masterfully. Like a statue, he only watches<br />

out for his lunch passing by.<br />

Watching the birth of a new day while leaning back in a canoe.<br />

We do not catch our dinner out of the water but from our lunch<br />

boxes. Our accommodation is simple and easy: On a water-hiking<br />

resting area we set up our tarp and unroll our sleeping mats on the<br />

ground. When I wake up in the middle of the night I look straight<br />

up to a sparkling sky full of stars. I love the unpopulated area for<br />

its darkness. It got a bit cold and tomorrow there will be thick fog<br />

over the Granziner Lake. The first rays of dawn will get tangled in it<br />

and everything will be in a gol<strong>de</strong>n light. This scenery is not a premiere<br />

for me, but each time I find it <strong>de</strong>eply moving.<br />

The ice age was a fascinating time period. At least when looking<br />

back at it. 15,000 years ago, the moving glaciers did not only create<br />

hundreds of lakes but also an evenly chopped landscape, just<br />

ma<strong>de</strong> for relaxed bicycle tours. After a sunrise tour with our canoes<br />

and a large breakfast, we exchange a canoe for bicycles and<br />

leave most of our luggage with Andreas. Already in the after- >


60<br />

Travel<br />

The first night in our sleeping bag un<strong>de</strong>rneath the tarp,<br />

the second night un<strong>de</strong>r a duvet in a romantic hotel.<br />

The summer tourists are long gone. Many birds are going to head off soon too. Lars and Niels Hoffmann.<br />

noon we arrive at our second <strong>de</strong>stination in the town of Ludorf, set<br />

on the west bank of the Müritz. This time, we choose exquisite<br />

accommodation for the night. Instead of sleeping un<strong>de</strong>rneath a<br />

plastic sheet we take the duvet in the romantic hotel Gutshaus<br />

Ludorf.<br />

Through grand hallways in outdoor clothes.<br />

We check in with little luggage and might have attracted some attention<br />

with our outdoor clothes as we shuffle through grand hallways.<br />

Manor houses are fairly common in this area, often in the<br />

centre of a village. Many manor houses got rebuild and renovated<br />

after the reunification, some turned into hotels or cottages. Although<br />

there is solidity and nobleness in the air, they offer a very<br />

relaxed atmosphere, promises Manfred Achtenhagen, owner of<br />

the manor. »How about a Finnish sauna after your canoe and bicycle<br />

tour?« It sounds perfect, you cannot finish an <strong>autumn</strong> day any<br />

better. Or can you?<br />

Our host seems to know something even better. »You have to go to<br />

the viewpoint Gnever Kuhle. You have a magnificent view over the<br />

nature reserve Großer Schwerin, a peninsula in the Müritz. At sunset,<br />

there are more than 5,000 cranes looking for a resting place<br />

for the night. You can only see this natural event during <strong>autumn</strong><br />

when all the birds get together to fly towards the south.« Manfred<br />

certainly knows how to get us interested.<br />

So in the evening, we squint against the setting sun, in front of us<br />

the wi<strong>de</strong> Müritz. Cranes circle in large formations above us, and<br />

one by one they land on the flat bank of the peninsula. We have<br />

never seen anything like this. Again, it is the sound of the landscape<br />

that moves me: the hooting of the birds and the rushing of<br />

the wind. My favourite soundtrack of the Mecklenburg Lake<br />

District during <strong>autumn</strong>.<br />

<<br />

Travel Brothers<br />

Lars Hoffman has been working as a nature and<br />

outdoor photographer for many years. He does not<br />

only share his surname with author Niels Hoffman,<br />

but also his passion to discover the unknown.<br />

The brothers have been travelling around in all<br />

directions, no matter what season, by foot, with<br />

skies or dog sled, and of course by kayak and canoe.<br />

They paddled down the Donau as »Die Donauten«,<br />

accompanied by a 3sat/ZDF-TV team, wrote articles<br />

for the Kanu-Magazin straight from the river and published the photography book<br />

»Gesichter <strong>de</strong>r Donau«, including their travel story.<br />

Fresh from the press is their latest large-format book about the Mecklenburg<br />

Lake District. The National Geographic Photographer praises the book: »You can’t<br />

visualise a love letter to the Mecklenburg Lake District any better way than that.<br />

This book has a special quality.«<br />

»Die Mecklenburgische Seenplatte«, Photography by Lars Hoffmann, Publishing<br />

House Edition Morizaner, Globetrotter or<strong>de</strong>r number 21.58.15, 224 pages, 143<br />

photos, 29.90 euros. Available in German.


62 Loyalty Card Loyalty Card 63<br />

Lucky Cards<br />

If you have the GlobetrotterCard you will receive free postal <strong>de</strong>livery of 4-<strong>Seasons</strong> – and earn bonus points (in<br />

the form of GlobePoints) at the same time: Loyalty card hol<strong>de</strong>rs save up to 10 percent on a sale. And on top<br />

there are contests and more benefits – for free. Your GlobetrotterCard is your entry to exclusive events – like the<br />

ones introduced on theses pages. More information on the card as well as the online or<strong>de</strong>r form can be found on<br />

www.globetrotter.<strong>de</strong>/kun<strong>de</strong>nkarte. Customer service: phone +49 40 67 96 62 82.<br />

Eifel, Guns,<br />

and Roses?<br />

Heinz Zak in the woods, won<strong>de</strong>ring if the rain will ever stop during the photography workshop in the Eifel.<br />

The sublime photographer Heinz Zak introduced<br />

Loyalty Card hol<strong>de</strong>rs to the high art of light<br />

sculpturing – in harsh conditions.<br />

The circumstances could not have been more different at the two<br />

photo bivouacs that were organised by Globetrotter and supported<br />

by Mountain Equipment. Sunshine in Saxon Switzerland and mild<br />

nights in April so the eight participants could unroll their sleeping<br />

bags on the sandstone and take dreamlike photos of the dusk. It<br />

all went to plan. At the other event, pouring rain in May in the Vulkan<br />

Eifel so that participants had to crawl into the hut of the Eifel<br />

association at night – but at least they took pictures full of atmosphere,<br />

dripping water and gushing creeks.<br />

Winner Susanne L. remembers the Eifel: »With the help of Heinz<br />

we got lost in the rich and vividly green colours, the best conditions<br />

for macro photography. We played around near waterfalls<br />

with aperture and exposure. We drew pictures of Heinz to work on<br />

the framing and to learn more about the gol<strong>de</strong>n rule. Over all it<br />

was about having fun.«<br />

The planned picnic fell through and the group preferred to go out<br />

Photo: Sebastian Wolf<br />

Photo: Uwe Fiedler<br />

Photo: Heinz Zak<br />

for dinner to a restaurant. On the second day of the workshop in<br />

the Eifel, the weather gods still could not get enough of their bad<br />

weather pictures. Susanne and the other winners ma<strong>de</strong> the best<br />

out of it: »We found nice spots on the bank of the Schalkenmehrener<br />

Maar to take photos of reflections – truly a playing field for artistic<br />

photography. We had better not count the blurry pictures…«<br />

All the more happy were the sun and the photographers at the<br />

workshop in Saxon Switzerland. But have a look for yourself… <<br />

Evening atmosphere with Elbsandstone.<br />

Photo biwaks<br />

supported by<br />

The participants of the Saxon bivouacs with Heinz Zak (left).<br />

A Man for the Sublime Moment<br />

Heinz Zak from Tyrol is an exceptionally gifted alpine photographer and<br />

alpinist. Especially on his home terrain, in Karwen<strong>de</strong>l, he enjoys <strong>de</strong>manding<br />

climbing trips and takes sublime pictures. Zak has been as far away as the<br />

Yosemite Park where he became a slackline pioneer. He is happy to pass on<br />

his knowledge and skills via books, presentations, outdoor courses and photo<br />

workshops. More information: heinzzak.com.<br />

Treasure Hunt 2.0<br />

Special event for Loyalty Card hol<strong>de</strong>rs: Two<br />

families tried out the GPS-supported treasure hunt<br />

Geocaching in the Harz Mountains.<br />

Approximately 240,000 treasure chests – the so-called<br />

caches – are hid<strong>de</strong>n in Germany’s forests, fields and cities.<br />

On websites like geocaching.com you can find <strong>de</strong>scriptions<br />

and coordinations. Put them into your GPS, and start the<br />

digital treasure hunt, fun for children and adults alike. A<br />

catch usually comes with a logbook, fin<strong>de</strong>rs can write their<br />

name down. Markus Grün<strong>de</strong>l, author of the book »Geocaching«<br />

(Conrad Stein Publisher) first of all introduced the<br />

winner families to the technique and the rules of geocaching.<br />

Afterwards, they walked through Zellerfeld on the<br />

hunt for their first treasures. Two night catches were also on<br />

the schedule: Only a headlight and a luminous GPS display<br />

showed the way into the pitch-black Oberharz where the<br />

special treasures are…<br />

<<br />

When treasure maps turn into a Garmin.<br />

Photo: Moving Adventures Medien


64<br />

Loyalty Card<br />

Lucky Cards<br />

The Globetrotter Loyalty Card is your ticket to exclusive events with outdoor professionals.<br />

Apply now for the next highlights:<br />

MAxiMiLiAn SEMSCH<br />

Show »What a Trip – On an eBike<br />

around Australia«<br />

16 October Munich,<br />

17 October Frankfurt<br />

14 November Hamburg.<br />

Maximilian Semsch<br />

got lots of attention<br />

in 2008 when he<br />

cycled solo from<br />

Munich to Singapore.<br />

At the moment,<br />

he is cycling<br />

on an eBike around Australia. Be there when he talks live<br />

about his adventures in Down Un<strong>de</strong>r and take the chance to<br />

get special tips from the adventurer who turned his dream<br />

into a profession.<br />

ALix von MELLE<br />

Workshop with extreme mountaineer<br />

9 to 11 November, Munich.<br />

Experience a weekend with Germany’s most successful extreme<br />

mountaineer! Find out about your performance level<br />

by having a professional analysis and get tips all about alpinism<br />

from Alix von Melle, who has already been on top of five<br />

eight-thousan<strong>de</strong>rs. Together, climb one of Alix’ favourite<br />

mountains on her Bavarian home ground.<br />

WArrEn MiLLEr<br />

Tickets on offer for ski film<br />

AndrEAS KiELinG<br />

Show<br />

»Durchs wil<strong>de</strong> Deutschland«<br />

From 24 October<br />

in your city’s cinema.<br />

»Flow State« is the<br />

brand new film by<br />

Warren Miller Entertainment.<br />

This year,<br />

the legendary ski<br />

film maker takes the<br />

audience on a tour to<br />

the hip spots in<br />

Utah, Colorado and<br />

Alaska. Spectacular<br />

downhill skiing, impressive<br />

landscape<br />

shots and the world’s<br />

best ri<strong>de</strong>rs. Info:<br />

warren-miller.<strong>de</strong>.<br />

5 November Dres<strong>de</strong>n,<br />

7 November Frankfurt,<br />

12 November Berlin.<br />

Andreas Kieling<br />

tells us in the current<br />

show about<br />

his walk from the<br />

Alps to the Wad<strong>de</strong>n<br />

Sea, showing<br />

how wild Germany<br />

can be. Nobody<br />

else manages to<br />

capture the audience so intensively – with stories about our<br />

homeland and its wildlife.<br />

Information on application and <strong>de</strong>tails on the above and further exclusive events online:<br />

globetrotter.<strong>de</strong>/kun<strong>de</strong>nkarte. Note: All events are in German unless stated otherwise.<br />

Photo: Alex Obrien


66 Manufacturer Manufacturer 67<br />

Snowy Swe<strong>de</strong>n in August – the business trip turned into an adventure test for Hilleberg’s employees.<br />

Photo: Archiv Hilleberg<br />

Photo: Moritz Becher<br />

Business Trip<br />

à la Hilleberg<br />

Ask any camper for the best tent and they will mostly likely answer:<br />

Hilleberg. 4-<strong>Seasons</strong> got to the bottom of a 41-year success story<br />

about Swedish perfection on a canoe trip with the tentmaker and<br />

company foun<strong>de</strong>r Bo Hilleberg.<br />

Bo Hilleberg is in his element. Surroun<strong>de</strong>d by a dozen employees,<br />

the 71-year old sits with shining eyes on a stone<br />

and picks a potato out of the campfire. They do not talk<br />

about business. They tell each other stories about their latest outdoor<br />

adventure. The Swe<strong>de</strong>s are not holding back with their rough<br />

jokes. The canoes are on the bank of the lake, the tents are pitched<br />

and leave a pattern of dark-green and red-orange dots on the<br />

green island. Of course, Bo has found the most even and driest<br />

spot on the ground. Deca<strong>de</strong>s of experience doesn’t go unnoticed.<br />

The annual canoe tour in central Swe<strong>de</strong>n’s natural reservation Rogen,<br />

a three-hour drive from the company’s headquarter in Östersund,<br />

has turned into a Hilleberg tradition. From the trainee to<br />

Bo Hilleberg, head of the administrative board, they are quasi all<br />

in the same boat. The five day business trip feels like a family<br />

holiday. One evening, the famous Köttbullar sizzle on the gas cooker<br />

while busy hands are collecting cranberries. Bullerby seems to<br />

be just around the corner.<br />

It is also the good spirit of Bo Hilleberg that is in the air. More than<br />

40 years ago, the same entrepreneurial spark was itching to ignite in<br />

the then-forester as in many other founding members of outdoor<br />

companys. The passionate hiker, paddler and skier was dissatisfied<br />

with the tents sold on the market. So he simply started to play<br />

around. His vision: He wanted to pitch the insi<strong>de</strong> and outsi<strong>de</strong> tent<br />

simultaneously. He wanted to stop the inner tent from getting wet<br />

while he tried to cover it with the loose rain fly fluttering in the wind.<br />

A man, a plan. In 1971 Bo foun<strong>de</strong>d the company, mainly selling<br />

forestry machines. In the same year he met Renate Neuner from<br />

Kufstein while skiing in Austria. His pearl of Tyrol soon moved to<br />

him in Swe<strong>de</strong>n and their wedding marked the starting point for<br />

»Hilleberg – The Tentmaker AB«. Renate was able to realise Bo’s<br />

i<strong>de</strong>as with the right touch on the sewing machine. In 1973, Hilleberg<br />

introduces the Keb, the first tent to have a connected inner<br />

and outer. It has been a success from the very first moment.<br />

It did not take long for the real breakthrough. In 1975 Bo received<br />

a sample of a new material from a supplier. The fabric was both<br />

lighter and stronger than any other fabric. Instead of the usual<br />

polyurethane, it was coated with silicone and therefore absolutely<br />

waterproof and incredible tearproof. »That was exactly what I was<br />

looking for«, Bo says when he remembers the beginning of<br />

Hilleberg’s Kerlon fabric. In comparison to the silicone-coated<br />

Bo Hilleberg (front) on a five-day canoe trip with his colleagues. He‘s still very much the driving force in the company. ><br />

Text: Ingo Wilhelm


68 Manufacturer Manufacturer 69<br />

Bo Hilleberg in the Alps in 1970…<br />

fabric, the Kerlon fabric is coated with three layers with pure silicone<br />

on both si<strong>de</strong>s. Today, it still sets the standards in terms of the<br />

relationship of strength to weight. Meanwhile, Hilleberg uses four<br />

versions: Kerlon 1800 (tear resistance 18 kilogram) for the<br />

toughest tents, Kerlon SP (tear resistance 15 kilogram) for special<br />

mo<strong>de</strong>ls like the group tent Atlas, Kerlon 1200 for the extra light<br />

all-roun<strong>de</strong>r mo<strong>de</strong>l and Kerlon 1000 for the 3 season tent.<br />

Hilleberg’s employees swap tents every night on the canoe trip, so<br />

everybody can test different mo<strong>de</strong>ls. »In 2011, we first introduced<br />

tents that weren’t meant for four seasons«, explains Bo. There<br />

is a special <strong>de</strong>mand from the American and Asian markets. So<br />

they produced the dome tent Rogen which cuts a fine figure on its<br />

eponymous lake. They are happy with the stability on the rough<br />

ground and the amount of space. The 3 season tent might not<br />

have found too many friends the year before: There was snow in<br />

Rogen in August!<br />

Hilleberg’s tent city is growing bigger and bigger: meanwhile, they<br />

have 21 different mo<strong>de</strong>ls, not counting the size variables. The<br />

… and with his children Petra and Rolf in front of a Keron in 1979.<br />

»Of course we could create an even lighter tent. But it couldn’t<br />

be a Hilleberg because it wouldn’t meet our requirements for<br />

stability and durability anymore.« Bo Hilleberg<br />

product line ranges from the very light tunnel tent Anjan (1,7 kilograms,<br />

space for two people) to the Saitaris, a dome tent for the<br />

toughest situations. Also, Hilleberg regularly experiments with minimalist<br />

shelters like a tarp as a rain fly or a Mesh Tent providing<br />

protection from insects. »Tarps are a fantastic add-on«, Bo raves.<br />

»For example, you can create a living room by spanning a tarp<br />

between two tents.«<br />

Constant care and improvement<br />

The story of Hilleberg is based on two main elements: the eagerness<br />

to experiment and above all their strive for perfection. There<br />

are 15 employees in Östersund, all following the six basic principles<br />

of the Tentmaker: reliability, ease of use, versatility, durability,<br />

comfort and weight. They would never give up weight at the expense<br />

of other principles. »Of course we could create an even lighter<br />

tent«, Bo says. »But it couldn’t be a Hilleberg because it wouldn’t<br />

meet our requirements for stability and durability anymore.« In-<br />

Photos: Archiv Hilleberg<br />

Testing the resistance of the Kerlon fabric. Pitching each tent before <strong>de</strong>livery. Bo: 71 years old, tentmaker for 41 years.<br />

stead of regularly throwing new mo<strong>de</strong>ls on the market, Hilleberg<br />

focusses on continualy improving the mo<strong>de</strong>ls they have already<br />

created. The tunnel tent Keron has been in the family since 1980<br />

and it constantly gets optimised and is still in the pole position.<br />

Cooling down the needles of the sewing machine<br />

To be able to guarantee the best quality in production, Hilleberg<br />

set up its own manufacturing base in Estonia ten years ago, currently<br />

employing 35 people. The fabrics from international special<br />

manufactures get scrupulously tested before they get released for<br />

tent production. The waterproofness is the sewers’ responsibility<br />

because it is impossible to tape silicon coated fabric. The Estonian<br />

workers master the flat-felled seam like nobody else: each stitch<br />

has to go through four layers of fabric. They even cool down the<br />

needles of the sewing machine so the stitches will stay small. A<br />

bigger stitch could influence the waterproofness and the strength.<br />

Eventually, an in-house inspector pitches each tent, checks the<br />

smoothness of the zippers, looks closely at every stitch. Only when<br />

he has approved all the items making up a tent will it be put into a<br />

bag and sent to the warehouse in Swe<strong>de</strong>n or the US.<br />

Bo’s daughter Petra is responsible for the export market overseas.<br />

She works in the branch near Seattle together with 3 employees.<br />

This time, Petra is taking part in the canoe trip too while her brother<br />

Rolf is managing the company in Östersund. Maybe for not<br />

too much longer however – he would like to spend more time with<br />

his family and withdraw from the top of the company. »Nothing<br />

will change for the customer though«, promises Bo.<br />

On the last night at Rogen, a seemingly never ending rain starts to<br />

pour down. Puddles grow bigger in front of the tents. Not in front<br />

of Bo’s tent though: dry-shod<strong>de</strong>d he crawls out of his tent. He did<br />

it again, the old hand: found the perfect spot at the right time! <<br />

You can find the interview with Bo Hilleberg on 41 years of<br />

tent making online: 4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.<strong>de</strong>/Hilleberg.


70 State of the Art State of the Art 71<br />

Salomon<br />

XA Pro 3D Ultra 2 GTX<br />

Is there the perfect equipment? Absolutely. In State of<br />

the Art, 4-<strong>Seasons</strong> introduces equipment that sets the<br />

standards in its class.<br />

Product category Waterproof flat multifunctional shoe with trail running genes. Also<br />

available as medium cut as well as low cut version without Gore-Tex<br />

(without GTX in the name). For men and women.<br />

Useage For walks and runs off the asphalt. Trail runners use it especially<br />

for <strong>de</strong>manding terrain and longer runs.<br />

Status From special shoe to bestseller: Originally <strong>de</strong>veloped for alpine<br />

conditions, the XA Pro overtook the field of outdoor shoes and became<br />

a trendsetter due to its lightness.<br />

Manufacturer Salomon SA, Annecy, France.<br />

Concept and I<strong>de</strong>a Frédéric Crétinon (48), Salomon <strong>de</strong>veloper since 1986, today Global<br />

Footwear R&D Director for the parent company Amer Sports.<br />

Technical <strong>de</strong>tails Weight per pair: 700 grammes in size 5.5. Price: 144.95 €.<br />

History In 1947, François and Georges Salomon, father and son, foun<strong>de</strong>d<br />

their company in Annecy. Salomon first only focused on alpine<br />

sport. It was not until 1992 that they introduced their first hiking<br />

boot to the market aiming at the trail run. »Sponsoring great outdoor<br />

competitions showed us what people who run outdoors need«,<br />

remembers <strong>de</strong>veloper Frédéric Crétinon. In 2001, when nobody<br />

was talking about »trail running«, Salomon put the XA Pro 1 on the<br />

market. A year later, 30 trail runners help with the <strong>de</strong>velopment.<br />

Their most important criterion: stability. Salomon's reply: an advanced<br />

chassis <strong>de</strong>sign protecting the midsole foam material. The<br />

XA Pro 2 was born. In 2005, the shoe is optimised with a 3D advanced<br />

chassis and is now called XA Pro 3D. In 2008 »Ultra« came into<br />

the name following enhanced cushioning. Finally, the 2 (after<br />

another improvement) and the GTX (Gore-Tex) were ad<strong>de</strong>d to the<br />

name.<br />

Purchase advice on vi<strong>de</strong>o: 4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.tv/film/kaufberatung-leichte-schuhe-mit-funktion.<br />

STATe<br />

OF The ART<br />

Reference<br />

Product<br />

You could say that<br />

the XA Pro has left its<br />

running-shoe birthplace. It convinced<br />

many hikers that they can also walk<br />

with a low cut shoe. There is stability,<br />

comfort, traction and protection with<br />

little weight leading to a more pleasurable<br />

end to the day and less fatigue.<br />

Frédéric Crétinon (48),<br />

Salomon shoe <strong>de</strong>veloper<br />

The XA Pro 3D Ultra<br />

2 GTX convinces in<br />

many ways such as the clever lacing<br />

system and the non-slip sole. It is more<br />

stable than a common trail-running<br />

shoe and therefore an all-roun<strong>de</strong>r. Not<br />

to forget the <strong>de</strong>sign – the XA Pro has<br />

become a trendy lifestyle product.<br />

Andreas Petz (49),<br />

Globetrotter Expert<br />

upper MATeriAL<br />

Breathable, quick-drying<br />

mesh and synthetic leather for<br />

stability.<br />

WATerproof proTecTion<br />

Gore-Tex membrane »Exten<strong>de</strong>d<br />

Comfort Footwear«.<br />

Waterproof protection and<br />

breathability to keep you<br />

dry and comfortable.<br />

proTecTive Toe cAp<br />

Ma<strong>de</strong> of shock proof<br />

rubber (TPU).<br />

»SenSifiT« SySTeM<br />

Crisscross stripes ma<strong>de</strong> of<br />

synthetic leather connected to<br />

the lacing system. Cradles the<br />

foot from both si<strong>de</strong>s. Perfect<br />

stability with little weight.<br />

»QuickLAce«<br />

Fast on, fast off with only one pull. Distributes<br />

the pressure on the whole foot and<br />

enables a customised fit. No step-by-step<br />

lacing. Plastic eyelets provi<strong>de</strong> smoother<br />

lacing and fit. Asymmetrical lacing for<br />

a better fit. Solid one-pull tightening, no<br />

need to readjust. Rest of lace and lock<br />

can be easily stored in a pocket. Covered<br />

Kevlar laces – tear resistant!<br />

»conTAgrip« ouTSoLe<br />

Forefoot flex grooves provi<strong>de</strong> stability on<br />

all si<strong>de</strong>s (see figure below). Self cleaning,<br />

combination of different kinds of rubber<br />

hardness for perfect mix of grip and<br />

durability. Less abrasion on asphalt than<br />

trail running race shoes.<br />

Tongue<br />

Tongue is connected to the<br />

upper so no stones or water<br />

can penetrate.<br />

MidSoLe<br />

Sole is low cut which allows<br />

movement yet minimises the<br />

danger of twisting. More stable<br />

and har<strong>de</strong>r than a pure trail<br />

runner. Mo<strong>de</strong>rate drop of 10<br />

mm. Control of pronation (stabilising<br />

element to prevent the<br />

foot from twisting inwards) to<br />

absorb the lateral movements,<br />

in particular when <strong>de</strong>scending<br />

in or<strong>de</strong>r to prevent knee<br />

damage.<br />

»orThoLiTe« SockLiner<br />

Cushioned and breathable<br />

foam un<strong>de</strong>r the foot. Heel cup<br />

ma<strong>de</strong> of Ethylenvinylacetat<br />

foam (EVA) secures stability.<br />

MidSoLe (A)<br />

»energy ceLL 2«<br />

Great cushioning due to<br />

EVA foam with recycled tire<br />

content. Perfect compromise<br />

of shock absorption and<br />

resilience (ability of material<br />

to recover).<br />

MidSoLe (b)<br />

»AdvAnced 3d chASSiS«<br />

3D advanced chassis between<br />

the outsole and midsole<br />

maximises stability, energy<br />

management and push-through<br />

protection.<br />

A<br />

heeL Loop<br />

For easy on-off. Possible<br />

to carry on harness.<br />

B A


72 Equipment Advice Equipment Advice 73<br />

What to take with you on a mountaineering expedition and an alpine tour<br />

» Battling with<br />

materials«<br />

Interview: Julian Rohn | Photos: Archiv Alix von Melle<br />

An eight-thousan<strong>de</strong>r and more than 80 things to pack:<br />

Germany’s most successful extreme mountain climber<br />

Alix von Melle* tells us what she took on her Mount<br />

Manaslu expedition – and gives helpful tips suitable for<br />

the »normal« alpinist.<br />

*Alix von Melle (40) is Globetrotter<br />

Munich’s press spokeswoman and<br />

has already climbed five eightthousan<strong>de</strong>rs.<br />

The complete<br />

Manaslu packlist including<br />

prices and weights on<br />

4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.<strong>de</strong>/manaslu.


74<br />

Equipment Advice<br />

Alix, last spring you went on a Mount<br />

Manaslu expedition with your<br />

colleague Rainer Jäpel from Globetrotter<br />

Dres<strong>de</strong>n and the DAV Summit Club.<br />

You had to return before you reached the<br />

8,163 meter high summit because of a<br />

thun<strong>de</strong>rstorm. What was your most important<br />

piece of equipment on that day?<br />

I guess I would not be sitting here if I<br />

hadn‘t had my GPS. We couldn’t see<br />

anything on our way down but had to find<br />

the two fixed rope traverses. We would never<br />

have found them without the GPS – it<br />

was worth its weight in gold.<br />

What was your protection against the storm<br />

and cold?<br />

At a high attitu<strong>de</strong> the first layer I usually<br />

wear is warm un<strong>de</strong>rwear ma<strong>de</strong> of merino<br />

wool. Over it, a jumper and pants out of<br />

power-stretch fleece. To keep the trunk<br />

warm, I wear a Prima Loft Jacket. The top<br />

layer is my down suit, I don’t take it off<br />

once I’m above 7,000 metres not even in<br />

my sleeping bag. I put a Buff around my<br />

neck, protect my face with a neoprene<br />

mask and snow goggles. Never without my<br />

Beanie, of course.<br />

Your packing list inclu<strong>de</strong>s a hard shell jacket<br />

and pants, known to every outdoor<br />

person as protection against wind and rain.<br />

Why don’t you wear them at high attitu<strong>de</strong>?<br />

Hard shell clothes protect you perfectly<br />

against bad weather. I only wear Gore-Tex<br />

clothes up to 6,500 metres though. Higher<br />

up it is important to have real insulation, you<br />

don’t need one hundred percent waterproofness<br />

at such an altitu<strong>de</strong>. The outer fabric of<br />

my down suit is pretty waterproof. I leave my<br />

hard shell clothes at the mid camp.<br />

The notorious <strong>de</strong>ath zone lies between the<br />

last camp and the summit. What is in your<br />

backpack at that time?<br />

A thermos flask with a hot drink, handkerchiefs,<br />

another pair of goggles, a spare<br />

pair of gloves, a little bivouac sack and a<br />

»Close to the summit<br />

I always use heated<br />

insoles in my boots.«<br />

first aid kit. Some mountaineers don’t take<br />

a backpack at all on the last climb. I don’t<br />

like putting a bottle in my down suit<br />

though. I only put a little camera in my<br />

pock et so the batteries won’t cool down. I<br />

always have a muesli bar with me that I carry<br />

in my down suit as well, so it stays edible.<br />

Why do you bring a spare pair of gloves?<br />

They don’t get wet in the cold, do they?<br />

They don’t get wet but they are easy to<br />

lose. At Denali in Alaska, I clamped my<br />

mittens between my legs while taking a<br />

photo. When I got up I totally forgot about<br />

them. Of course they flew away immediately.<br />

My husband Luis was luckily able to<br />

lend me his overmittens. Ever since, I tie<br />

my mittens on my wrist. And in addition,<br />

there is always another pair of warm gloves<br />

in my rucksack.<br />

Nobody likes cold feet. Especially not in the<br />

Arctic cold of the eight-thousan<strong>de</strong>rs. How<br />

Manaslu <strong>2012</strong>: Alix (left) and climbing partner Saskia Sippel.<br />

do you prevent your feet from<br />

freezing?<br />

Right on the skin I wear Falke’s<br />

thin Double-Dry socks. They<br />

keep your feet dry and protect<br />

against rubbing and blisters. On<br />

top of them I wear the thickest<br />

merino wool socks we have in the<br />

program. As soon as we leave the<br />

base camp, I use special expedition<br />

boots. They have specially<br />

integrated gaiters and the aluminium<br />

lining keeps you nice and<br />

warm. They also have warm soles<br />

and inner boot. The boots cost<br />

more than 700 euros but are<br />

worth every cent if you want to<br />

keep your toes. I also use heated<br />

insoles…<br />

You use heated insoles? Like any alpin<br />

skier who is not used to the cold?<br />

Exactly. The cheapest mo<strong>de</strong>l is<br />

the best one. Simply connect the<br />

wire and put the box with the<br />

four AA-batteries with the inner<br />

boot. They keep warm the whole<br />

day if you use lithium batteries<br />

on medium level – rechargeable<br />

batteries would flag quickly in<br />

the cold. Sometimes I put a heat<br />

pack on my toes. There is enough<br />

space in the boots for it.<br />

Approaching an eight-thousan<strong>de</strong>r<br />

is a slow but steady climb. There<br />

were four camps on the Manaslu,<br />

the high camp at an attitu<strong>de</strong> of<br />

7,400 metres. Is there no sleeping<br />

bag for such attitu<strong>de</strong>s or why<br />

did you sleep in your down suit?<br />

I do use hardcore sleeping bags<br />

like the Western Mountaineering<br />

Bison, but only in the base camp.<br />

At that stage it is important that<br />

you sleep comfortably and relaxed.<br />

For the high camp I reduce<br />

the weight and only take a light<br />

sleeping bag with a comfort zone<br />

of -20 <strong>de</strong>grees. That is enough in<br />

combination with a down suit.<br />

The same for the mat: luxury in<br />

the base camp, light in the high<br />

camp. I took the new NeoAir<br />

xTherm to the Manaslu: super<br />

light, little pack space, and the<br />

layers of reflective material recycle<br />

the body heat.<br />

So, air mattresses do not get damaged<br />

when the moisture of your<br />

breath freezes insi<strong>de</strong>?<br />

That is what many people say but<br />

I have never had a frozen mattress,<br />

even though you have to<br />

blow the XTherm up hard. Maybe<br />

that‘s because the volume ><br />

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Ab ins Vergnügen: www.garmin.<strong>de</strong><br />

*Eine Region <strong>de</strong>r Topo Deutschland Light als Download inklusive


76 Equipment Advice<br />

huskytrack<br />

Manaslu – Mountain of the Spirit<br />

The Manaslu (8,163 m) is located in the Mansiri<br />

Himal in West Nepal. To the southeast there is the<br />

Ganesh Himal and to the Northwest the Annapurna<br />

(8,091). The name Manaslu comes from the<br />

Sanskrit meaning Mountain of the Spirit. In addition<br />

to the main peak, another two peaks rise from the<br />

plateau: the east (7,992 m) peak and the north<br />

(6,994 m) peak. The mountain was first successfully<br />

ascending by a Japanese expedition. It is said<br />

to be a bad weather mountain because of many<br />

storms and heavy snowfall.<br />

Ascent<br />

Approaching the mountain up northeast face,<br />

the base camp (4800 m) is located at the lateral<br />

moraine of the glacier. Camp 1 (5,700 metres) is<br />

set in mixed terrain. The route to Camp 2 follows<br />

a long glacial ramp and a steep section of ice.<br />

Beware of ice falling from séracs. The second<br />

camp (6,300 m) is located on a glacial plateau<br />

below the north col. The next steps lead along<br />

steep snow slopes and a short ice slope to the<br />

great plateau. Camp 3 is set up in a protected<br />

hollow at 6,900 metres. A fourth camp is situated<br />

at 7,400 metres before climbing the exposed ridge<br />

to the summit.<br />

Trekking in the Manaslu region<br />

The Manaslu Circuit Trek is one of the great trekking<br />

classics in Nepal. It takes two weeks and inclu<strong>de</strong>s<br />

the Larkya-Pass (5,135 m) amongst others. The trek<br />

leads through several types of vegetation and civilisation,<br />

still in its most remote and original landscapes.<br />

A permit is compulsory. DAV Summit Club<br />

offers the route as a gui<strong>de</strong>d Lodge-Trek. Information<br />

on the tour and the booking: dav-summit-club.<strong>de</strong>.<br />

Literature<br />

Reinhold Messern: »Sturm am Manaslu – Drama<br />

auf <strong>de</strong>m Dach <strong>de</strong>r Welt«, Malik-Verlag, ISBN 978-34<br />

92 40 33 51, Globetrotter Or<strong>de</strong>r Number: 16.51.08,<br />

11.95 euros.<br />

of the air reduces in the cold and therefore<br />

the mattress is softer in the morning.<br />

What else do you have to be aware of in a<br />

high camp?<br />

First of all: always try to keep weight down,<br />

for example with oral care chewing gums<br />

instead of tooth brush and paste. Secondly,<br />

everything that might freeze has to go into<br />

the sleeping bag like contact lenses, camera,<br />

headlight, and thirdly, the pee bottle.<br />

Why a pee bottle in the tent?<br />

I drink a lot, at least four litres a day. The<br />

better I adjust to the attitu<strong>de</strong>, the more water<br />

naturally goes out again. I have to go<br />

pee three times a night. I used to go outsi<strong>de</strong><br />

but when I came back into the tent I<br />

was chilled to the bone. If I did not go I<br />

would not be able to sleep properly. The<br />

pee bottle and a Whiz Freedom Urinal are<br />

the perfect solution.<br />

In the high camp, you have to melt snow to<br />

gain water. Why do you use a fuel stove?<br />

Apparently they don’t work very well in the<br />

attitu<strong>de</strong> or the cold…<br />

It is fun to melt snow with the Reactor<br />

MSR. Thanks to the large burner and heat<br />

exchanger you get the optimal heat for little<br />

fuel and therefore you again have little<br />

weight. Furthermore, the base of the pot<br />

serves as a wind protector. The mixture of<br />

butane, isobutane and propane are very efficient<br />

in the cold. At night, we kept them<br />

in the tent.<br />

Reinhold Messner wouldn’t leave without<br />

his Speck Alto Adige (dry cured ham).<br />

What did you eat?<br />

During the day, I also eat speck and cheese,<br />

as well as dry fruit, energy bars and ><br />

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78<br />

Equipment Advice<br />

choc olate. In the lower camps we had a lot<br />

of freeze-dried food and muesli. The higher<br />

we went the worse the food got – we ate pureed<br />

baby food because it is easily digestible.<br />

Often you don’t have any appetite and<br />

only drink soup because of the liquid.<br />

Your husband Luis and you slept in a<br />

single-wall tent. Why didn’t you take an<br />

expedition tent with<br />

an inner tent?<br />

A single-wall tent is<br />

lighter and takes up<br />

less space. You usually<br />

have to hack a platform<br />

into the ice anyway.<br />

On the Manaslu,<br />

some climbers used<br />

double-wall tents in<br />

the higher camps.<br />

They were torn up after<br />

the first couple of<br />

storm nights because<br />

the wind got un<strong>de</strong>r<br />

them better. Our tent<br />

was in mint condition.<br />

A disadvantage of a single skin tent is however<br />

that exhaled breath freezes immediately<br />

on the tent wall. You turn around and<br />

it basically snows down on you insi<strong>de</strong> the<br />

tent. Very annoying.<br />

Before you set foot on the Manaslu you had<br />

to walk to the base camp for nine days.<br />

How did you carry all your luggage?<br />

Sherpas and donkeys carried our main luggage<br />

to the base camp. So I only travelled<br />

with a light backpack. In it I had a drinking<br />

bottle and rain clothes, as well as a spare<br />

shirt. In case it gets cold when we take a<br />

break I always have a Power Stretch Hoodie<br />

and a Primaloft jacket with me. Sun cap,<br />

a Buff, a pair of windstopper gloves and a<br />

Beanie are compulsory. Often we were at<br />

Dinner is ready! Alix’ husband Luis Stitzinger.<br />

»A few tents were torn up<br />

after the stormy nights. Our<br />

tent was in mint condition.«<br />

the camp before the Sherpas arrived so we<br />

had to wait for our tents.<br />

So the food was probably much better in<br />

the base camp than in the high camps…<br />

There was a chef with us who even baked<br />

bread. Two kitchen hands took care of the<br />

supplies during those four weeks. They<br />

brought chicken and fresh vegetables<br />

from the valley. >


80<br />

Equipment Advice<br />

Climbing follows nine days of trekking.<br />

There is a lot of waiting around on an expedition<br />

like this. What do you do?<br />

Read. Last year we spent ten days in the<br />

base camp at Broad Peak, we were ready<br />

but the weather wasn’t. It would be awful<br />

for me not to have enough books.<br />

After physical exercise you long for a shower.<br />

How does hygiene work in the base camp?<br />

When I happen to take a shower I use the<br />

bio<strong>de</strong>gradable body wash from Sea to<br />

Summit sparingly because the water runs<br />

straight into the snow. Often, cleaning wip-<br />

es are good enough<br />

because you hardly<br />

sweat in the cold.<br />

When I want to wash<br />

my hair I use a bucket<br />

of warm water from<br />

the camping kitchen.<br />

What happens with<br />

the rubbish?<br />

It gets separated in<br />

the base camp and returned<br />

to the valley.<br />

Even the toilet, which<br />

takes the form of a<br />

barrel with bin liners<br />

hung insi<strong>de</strong>.<br />

»Cleaning wipes are often<br />

the better shower.«<br />

On top of the mountain you are dressed<br />

like polar adventurers, in the base camp<br />

like trekkers. Does your wardrobe offer<br />

some thing in between?<br />

Absolutely. The equipment from the base<br />

camp to the high camps is similar to normal<br />

alpine tour equipment that you use in the<br />

Alps: long un<strong>de</strong>rwear, a layer of Power<br />

Stretch Fleece covered by another layer of<br />

soft or hard-shell clothes. As additional insulation,<br />

I always bring my Prima Loft Jacket.<br />

Do you need special climbing equipment<br />

for an eight-thousan<strong>de</strong>r?<br />

Usually not. Near the glacier I wear a harness<br />

with the usual equipment attached:<br />

carabiners, accessory cord, ice screws and<br />

of course crampons and an ice axe. I didn’t<br />

wear a helmet in the Manaslu because<br />

there is rarely a danger of rock or ice fall.<br />

Unlike when in the Alps, on a high altitu<strong>de</strong><br />

tour you clip the jumar onto a static rope.<br />

Your Manaslu packlist combines luxury<br />

and minimalism. Did you really bring an<br />

inflatable pillow?<br />

Sure. Perfect for the breaks and the evenings<br />

in the cold dining tent of the base<br />

camp. Expeditions are a little material<br />

battle. You are outsi<strong>de</strong> for many weeks, you<br />

do not want to suffer all the time.<br />

What is it like to pack a normal backpack<br />

after such a material battle – just like any<br />

other alpinist?<br />

Fantastic. I often get asked if I train for<br />

such big tours with an extra heavy backpack.<br />

No way! It’s enough when I have to<br />

carry the damn thing on an expedition. <<br />

The packlist and the interview in full length online: 4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.<strong>de</strong>/manaslu.<br />

Alix’ website: goclimbamountain.<strong>de</strong>. Her colleagues Rainer Jäpel’s website: felsundschnee.<strong>de</strong>.<br />

Watch vi<strong>de</strong>os on extreme mountaineering: 4-seasons.tv/extrembergsteiger.<br />

Online-Reservierung sowie Bestellung von signierten Büchern, DVDs und Kalen<strong>de</strong>rn unter<br />

www.michael-martin.<strong>de</strong><br />

Die Wüsten <strong>de</strong>r Er<strong>de</strong><br />

22.09.<strong>2012</strong> Erbach<br />

18.10.<strong>2012</strong> Bad So<strong>de</strong>n<br />

31.10.<strong>2012</strong> Leipzig<br />

02.11.<strong>2012</strong> Wien<br />

02.12.<strong>2012</strong> Großostheim<br />

14.12.<strong>2012</strong> Nersingen<br />

22.01.2013 Göppingen<br />

25.01.2013 Karlsruhe-Neureut<br />

26.01.2013 Stuttgart<br />

29.01.2013 Buseck<br />

30.01.2013 Wurzen<br />

01.02.2013 Ibbenbüren<br />

02.02.2013 Fürth<br />

03.02.2013 München<br />

10.02.2013 Hamburg<br />

25.03.2013 Stadtbergen<br />

23.04.2013 Löhne<br />

24.04.2013 Havixbeck<br />

30 Jahre Abenteuer<br />

19.10.<strong>2012</strong> Völklingen<br />

23.10.<strong>2012</strong> Singen<br />

28.10.<strong>2012</strong> Balingen<br />

31.10.<strong>2012</strong> Leipzig<br />

01.11.<strong>2012</strong> Nürtingen<br />

25.11.<strong>2012</strong> Regensburg<br />

30.11.<strong>2012</strong> Dingol ng<br />

04.12.<strong>2012</strong> Diessen<br />

07.12.<strong>2012</strong> Coesfeld<br />

08.12.<strong>2012</strong> Beilngries<br />

11.12.<strong>2012</strong> Gernsheim<br />

15.12.<strong>2012</strong> Frankfurt<br />

20.01.2013 Nesselwang<br />

21.01.2013 Darmstadt<br />

23.01.2013 Neuötting<br />

24.01.2013 Viechtach<br />

26.01.2013 Stuttgart<br />

27.01.2013 Bad Blankenburg<br />

28.01.2013 Kempten<br />

03.02.2013 München<br />

05.02.2013 Baunatal-Altenb.<br />

06.02.2013 Salzwe<strong>de</strong>l<br />

08.02.2013 Schwerin<br />

09.02.2013 Berlin<br />

10.02.2013 Hamburg<br />

23.03.2013 Uhldingen-Mühlh.<br />

24.03.2013 Dres<strong>de</strong>n<br />

22.04.2013 Bonn-Bad Go<strong>de</strong>sb.


82 Five Stars Five Stars 83<br />

»My dog wants to be home first !«<br />

Field test at its best: Globetrotter boasts more than 60,000 customer feedbacks on<br />

www.globetrotter.<strong>de</strong>. The following eight products received the famous »five stars«.<br />

1 Allos Cranberry Muesli Bar<br />

0,95 €, No. 11.38.80*<br />

I could eat the muesli bar with<br />

any meal. Top ingredients,<br />

genuine and also filling – plus<br />

it keeps you fit. I always take it<br />

with me in case I cannot get a<br />

warm meal, no matter if<br />

outdoor or at work… honestly,<br />

sometimes I just have it as a<br />

<strong>de</strong>ssert ;-) Judith B.<br />

2 Meindl Jersey Pro<br />

159,95 €, No. 12.26.16*<br />

I bought the shoes for<br />

continuous running through<br />

the Bavarian forest and I am<br />

super happy with them. It’s a<br />

great make of shoe. No sores or<br />

blisters. Across country freshly<br />

waxed, through mud and snow,<br />

and I never had cold or wet<br />

feet. Just brushed the dirt off<br />

at home and waxed them– they<br />

look brand new again.<br />

Melanie S.<br />

Ever won<strong>de</strong>red who writes all the<br />

feedback? 4-<strong>Seasons</strong> introduces<br />

three of the above quoted customers.<br />

3 Vau<strong>de</strong> agaPet<br />

44,95 € , No. 15.47.84*<br />

I got the brown-coloured bag<br />

and I’m very pleased. It‘s got<br />

many pockets, enough room<br />

and is still neatly arranged. A<br />

bottle of water, an umbrella, a<br />

book and little things easily fit<br />

in. I bought it because it was<br />

finally a sporty and chic bag<br />

without velcro, I don’t like the<br />

noise! Daggi M.<br />

Kirsten Wasmuth<br />

alias Kirsten W.<br />

4 Kaikkialla Heta Jacket<br />

229,95 €, No. 13.12.79*<br />

The Heta keeps me dry even<br />

during the heaviest rain; When<br />

I’m active, the moisture<br />

transport outwards is<br />

excellent. The <strong>de</strong>gree of<br />

stretch is very comfortable too.<br />

I’m impressed by the quality at<br />

that price! Sabine S.<br />

Globetrotter customer since 1984.<br />

5 stars for: Bergans Luster Jacket.<br />

Best trip: Through Guatemala on foot<br />

and by boot.<br />

Last trip: Alemannenweg, O<strong>de</strong>nwald.<br />

Dream trip: Staying in the Alps one long<br />

summer with her dog and being a shepherd.<br />

Customer Feedback<br />

Find 60,000 more product feedbacks on globetrotter.<strong>de</strong>,<br />

more information on globetrotter.<strong>de</strong>/kun<strong>de</strong>nbewertung.<br />

5 Sea to Summit Body Wash<br />

4,95 €, No. 13.68.10*<br />

Granted, there is not too much<br />

you can say about a body wash.<br />

But I really like this one. Nice<br />

smell, the skin does not dry<br />

out. Small and you don’t need<br />

a lot of it. What else would you<br />

want? Alexandra H.<br />

1 3 4 5 7<br />

Theresa Heuer<br />

alias Theresa H.<br />

6 Eagle Creek No Matter What<br />

ab 69,95 €, No. 17.50.03*<br />

Very light and tough. I got the<br />

bag in size XL (100 l, 1200 g)<br />

to get as close to the weight<br />

limit imposed by airline<br />

carriers as possible. Other bags<br />

are already heavy when empty<br />

which leaves less room for<br />

luggage. Great i<strong>de</strong>a and<br />

performance!<br />

Volker S.<br />

2 6<br />

Globetrotter customer since 2006.<br />

5 stars for: 7 Mufflon Blanket.<br />

Best trip: Walking across the Alps from<br />

Munich to Venice.<br />

Last trip: From Cologne to Cadiz and to the<br />

Canary Islands, hitch-hiking along the Algarve.<br />

Dream trip: Cycling to India.<br />

7 Mufflon Blanket<br />

129,95 €, No. 18.73.99*<br />

I love this blanket. It is well<br />

ma<strong>de</strong>, feels very comfortable<br />

and keeps you warm. Mean -<br />

while I use it as a sleeping bag<br />

together with an inlet. It is two<br />

metres long so you can flip the<br />

end below your feet to keep<br />

them warm. Also great as a<br />

poncho. Theresa H.<br />

8 6<br />

Volker Schatz<br />

alias Volker S.<br />

8 Bergans Luster Jacket<br />

379,95 €, No. 19.44.70*<br />

Ever since I got this jacket my<br />

dog wants to be home first<br />

before I do! No, seriously,<br />

today I went to tend to the<br />

sheep for 2.5 hours while it<br />

was pouring down. Afterwards,<br />

I was still dry. It can’t get any<br />

better. Stretchable in all<br />

directions so it even fits me<br />

(1,75 metres, 72 kilograms in<br />

weight). Kirsten W.<br />

Globetrotter customer since 1990.<br />

5 stars for: Eagle Creek No Matter What.<br />

Last trip: Paddling in the Ticino for a long<br />

weekend.<br />

Best trip: New Zealand 2011/12. Round trip<br />

for two weeks, paddling for two weeks.<br />

Dream trip: Paddling in the Himalaya.<br />

8<br />

*Globetrotter or<strong>de</strong>r number (can vary according to size and colour) and price in August <strong>2012</strong>.


84<br />

Travel<br />

Restless in<br />

England<br />

Text: Monika Mai | Photos: Gerald Hänel<br />

Hiking, climbing, paddling, fishing – there is a lot to do on<br />

a family holiday in the Lake District. Especially when two<br />

sons are keen to get into the action…<br />

Travel 85


86<br />

Travel<br />

Our boys are at home in the big city of Hamburg and know<br />

the street jungle by heart. How will they feel in the English<br />

hiking paradise? How will the 13-year-old twins handle an<br />

overdose of landscape? Nature instead of notebook for a whole<br />

week? Parents need to bring an overdose of optimism on the way.<br />

Always. After all, the Lake District is not only all about romantic<br />

lakes and pathways but also full of action and adventure. So a via<br />

ferrata is on our schedule for the last day, remote but promising.<br />

Our first tour brims over with superlatives: We are on England’s<br />

highest mountain (Scafell Pike at 978 metres) above England’s<br />

<strong>de</strong>epest lake (Wastwater, 139 meter <strong>de</strong>ep) with England’s most<br />

beautiful view. Wasdale Hall Youth Hostel is our base camp, a<br />

19th century country resi<strong>de</strong>nce located directly on the lake with a<br />

big saloon and a house bar – complete with country house flair. No<br />

mobile phone connection though, sorry boys. When we arrive, Wastwater<br />

is shining in the gol<strong>de</strong>n evening sun. The next morning<br />

does not disappoint us as this is what you have to expect at the<br />

end of April in North England: five <strong>de</strong>grees (at least above zero),<br />

grey sky. And the weather forecast keeps on promising more bad<br />

weather to come.<br />

Thanks to the weather we do not choose the highest mountain and<br />

are back in time for lunch. We put on our rain jackets. »Do I have<br />

to?« Franz looks at us as if we want to punish him. Some things<br />

just cannot get into a teenager’s head. The young man has not<br />

reckoned with his mother. We do not want to spoil our break because<br />

of a sick 13-year old. Luis only needs a piercing look to put<br />

on his cap. There we go.<br />

Off to an enchanted lake, Greendale Tarn. There is only one lake in<br />

the Lake District that is actually called »Lake«. All the others are<br />

<strong>de</strong>signated »Mere«, »Water« and »Tarn«. The track along the<br />

course of a stream is steep and washed out. On top, there is only a<br />

mountain lake between bright green but swampy fields. Nothing<br />

else. No tree. No bush. No sign. A foretaste of what is to come.<br />

The boys are as hungry as wolves when we <strong>de</strong>scend from Greendale<br />

Tarn. Of course, it starts raining. It is bucking down, it is raining<br />

cats and dogs – there are enough English phrases for their seemingly<br />

one and only weather. The hikers that arrive at the pub Wasdale<br />

Head Inn just a little bit later got the full bucket of it. They are<br />

wet to the skin and put their jackets near the chimney. The view on<br />

top of the mountain into the valley was limited to two metres, and<br />

rain was mixed with snow, just as promised. Luis and Franz look at<br />

the photographs of George and Ashley Abrahams on the pub’s<br />

walls: two mountaineers that wear hobnailed boots and tweed jackets<br />

on the peak of the »Napes Needles«. Wasdale Head Inn has<br />

been a meeting point for climbing pioneers from all over England<br />

for more than 100 years. Some are still here, laid to rest in St.<br />

Olaf’s Church cemetery next to the pub. Climbers that have un<strong>de</strong>restimated<br />

the mountains around the Lake District or who just had<br />

bad luck. Back in the youth hostel, a dozen soaked and dirty hiking<br />

boots are standing in the hallway. We put ours next to them. The<br />

boys changed their minds about the totally-uncool hiking boots as<br />

they did not get any blisters and came back with dry feet.<br />

The Lake District has been a National Park for 60 years, the biggest<br />

one in England with its 2,292 square kilometres. Traditionally,<br />

it is a region based on farming and mining. Nowadays, their<br />

main source of income is tourism. A quarter of the National Park<br />

belongs to the National Trust, a British association that more than<br />

100 years ago <strong>de</strong>voted itself to preserving the won<strong>de</strong>rful natural<br />

landscapes and the cultural assets. The Trust lets more than 90<br />

farms around the lakes on lease, including the farm of ><br />

They are kids of the big city. How will the 13 year old<br />

twins handle an overdose of landscape?<br />

Luis tries to fit in<br />

with the blue colour<br />

of the lake.<br />

Travel 87<br />

Living like a Lord in the youth hostel and<br />

like a lonely explorer up in the mountains.


88 Travel Travel 89<br />

The best spot for<br />

a football ground.<br />

Unfortunately,<br />

not even a bite on<br />

England’s largest<br />

lake.<br />

children’s author Beatrix Potter. Sometimes we feel like we are in<br />

the middle of one of her books, living with the rabbits, geese and<br />

frogs. The boys are too old for that now.<br />

Culture is on the schedule for the next day. Best to sell to teenagers<br />

in a combo-package of picnic and ice cream. A magical location<br />

can be found on the mountain plateau above the village of<br />

Keswick. More than 5,000 years ago, people from the Bronze Age<br />

created a stone circle. I am impressed and won<strong>de</strong>r how they carried<br />

ten tonnes of rocks up the hill. The boys do not care. They use<br />

the mystical rocks as boul<strong>de</strong>rs and climb around. At least, they<br />

know to appreciate the fantastic view: the mountains Helvellyn,<br />

Skiddaw and Blencathra are amongst the highest in the Lake<br />

District and i<strong>de</strong>al for testing the pronunciation of 7th gra<strong>de</strong>rs.<br />

Moving houses: off to our next youth hostel Barrow House, a country<br />

estate from the 18th century. The window of the pool table<br />

room looks straight on to Derwant Water, our room window points<br />

to Cat Bells, a mountain we want to approach the next day. We<br />

start in style: our youth hostel has its own jetty on the beach. The<br />

historical woo<strong>de</strong>n boat goes around the lake and brings us to the<br />

start of the hiking trail. Alfred Wainright, the pope of British hikers,<br />

once wrote enthusiastically about Cat Bells. He climbed all<br />

the 214 summits of the Lake District 50 years ago. Still today, it is<br />

the aim of many hikers to climb all the »Wainwrights« of the area.<br />

The weather has changed again. Dry but stormy. The path to the<br />

peak is well-trod<strong>de</strong>n, some parts you have to climb with hands and<br />

feet. No problem for light-footed teenagers. Vertigo is a foreign<br />

word for them. Teenagers always feel a bit immortal. The wind almost<br />

blows us down from the mountain. Finally: the rough peak on<br />

Nature instead of notebook.<br />

No problem in such an<br />

exciting area.<br />

the top, Derwent Water down in the lovely valley – it is probably<br />

the contrast that makes the landscape so very special. The secret<br />

behind the English tradition of gar<strong>de</strong>n architecture is to be found<br />

in the Lake District: Expect something different and new around<br />

each corner! Back at the youth hostel the boys go and play another<br />

game of soccer. Where do they get their energy from?<br />

Harry Potter couldn’t have mastered it any better.<br />

The days just fly in the Lake District. Whole mountain ranges have<br />

been hollowed out by mining like a Swiss cheese but you cannot<br />

see it. As a rule, you will not spot any hiking signposts. The next<br />

lesson for the boys: improve the sense of direction with a map and<br />

compass. Their parents can still teach them how to walk crosscountry<br />

to the next town with a fish and chip shop. Let us start:<br />

Where are we? Where do we want to go? How far away is it? Luis<br />

locates our position, the track we are on and calculates the length<br />

of the route. He sets the compass, puts his glasses back on<br />

straight and starts walking up the next hill on his own, turns<br />

around, waves and vanishes behind the next hilltop. We take another<br />

path. I am a little bit worried. Unnecessarily as it turns out:<br />

he is already on the other si<strong>de</strong> in the boul<strong>de</strong>r valley waiting for us<br />

with a big grin. Harry Potter couldn’t have mastered it any better.<br />

From then on, Luis is the owner of the compass. It does not help him<br />

at the foot of the mountain. He stops as if glued to the spot in front<br />

of a wall: An impressive viper enjoys the sun on the warm stones.<br />

Luis is no fan of big snakes. His twin brother rescues him. Franz<br />

starts dancing in his heavy boots and chases the viper away. ><br />

The secret behind the English tradition of<br />

gar<strong>de</strong>n architecture is to be found in the<br />

Lake District: Expect something different<br />

and new around each corner!


90 Travel Travel 91<br />

Enough of tranquillity: finally some action again<br />

amongst the remains of the mines.<br />

Luckily, Nessie lives 100 miles up north and so we venture to go<br />

on a canoe tour on Lake Win<strong>de</strong>rmere the next day. Adi from Waterhead<br />

youth hostel hires out kayaks and canoes and gives us hints<br />

where to go and what to catch. We always take our fishing line on<br />

holiday. So we head for the River Rothay which is, according to<br />

Adi, <strong>de</strong>nsely populated with fish. Maybe he just told us one of his<br />

fish tales about fat perches. It does not stop us from having fun<br />

though. I especially enjoyed the view of the landscape which we<br />

could not have seen before because the main part of the river bank<br />

is private property. Boat houses lie behind enchanted islands,<br />

state ly country estates are set in parks.<br />

Enough of the tranquillity: finally some action again! Jonny leads<br />

us along a via ferrata on Honister Pass and through a former slate<br />

mine. After a short walk we click ourselves into the steal rope.<br />

Jonny makes clear we should always have one carabiner in the<br />

Remote but<br />

promising:<br />

the via ferrata<br />

up onto<br />

Fleetwith<br />

Pike.<br />

rope. If it rumbles from the top, scream out loud »stones!« and get<br />

close to the mountain to find shelter. Easy-peasy climbing for<br />

Franz. He has his eyes on the »Via Ferrata Extrem« that goes<br />

straight over the gorge using ice cramps. Our route is enough for<br />

me though. High and exciting enough for 50-year-old joints…<br />

Jonny takes a break at a cave. 150 years ago, mineworkers used to<br />

work here, sleep and eat. The opposite of a Feng Shui working place;<br />

dark and cold. Today, slate roof tiles are being produced in the mines<br />

once again. Guaranteed durability: 300 years. We manage to climb<br />

the last metres and reach the peak of Fleetwith Pike, 649 metres<br />

high. »This is simply the best view!«, Jonny is excited, turns around<br />

and explains to us: »Over there is Lake Butermere, and there is<br />

Scafell Pike, and over there is the Irish Sea.« Exhilarated from the<br />

climb, the boys enjoy the panorama. Our highest mountain in the<br />

lakes! The whole family at the peak of happiness.<br />

<<br />

Getting there, local transport and accommodation in the Lake District<br />

Lake District National Park:<br />

lakedistrict.gov.uk – the link to all<br />

information on weather, accommodation,<br />

traffic, fishing, camping etc.<br />

Best time to travel: May to June,<br />

September to October.<br />

Flight: Hamburg – Manchester with<br />

easyjet from 80 € return; Lufthansa<br />

from other German airports.<br />

Transport: Rental car: from 200 €/<br />

week; Manchester – Lake District<br />

150 km. Bus, ferry: Ferries operate<br />

on the larger lakes. Alternatives are<br />

the overland buses. cumbria.gov.uk/<br />

buses.<br />

Accommodation: 24 youth hostels<br />

situated in the Lake District<br />

(4-bed-room ca. 70 €). Yha.org.uk.<br />

Derwentwater Hostel, <strong>de</strong>rwentwater.<br />

org (table tennis, soccer, jetty – Luis’<br />

and Franz’ favourite). Most of the<br />

YHAs have wash ing machines, dryers,<br />

a kitchen and a restaurant. Stylish<br />

holiday homes and more information<br />

on attractions: nationaltrust.org.uk.<br />

Hiking information: walkingbritain.<br />

co.uk; wainwright-walks.co.uk. Best<br />

maps are Ordnance Survey Explorer<br />

Maps OL4-7. Hiking gui<strong>de</strong>s in English:<br />

Alfred Wainwright’s »Pictorial Gui<strong>de</strong><br />

to the Lakeland Fells« (7 volumes),<br />

Mark Richards’ »Great Mountain days<br />

in the Lake District« (2008).<br />

Honister »Via Ferrata«: honisterslate-mine.co.uk.<br />

The three-hour<br />

hike is no problem for fit people<br />

without a fear of heights; ol<strong>de</strong>r than<br />

10 years and 130 cm tall. Adults<br />

ICH LIEBE NATUR<br />

Ich liebe Performance<br />

from 45 €, children from 35 €,<br />

families from 140 €.<br />

Bicycles, canoes etc.: Rental shops<br />

in bigger towns and on some lakes.<br />

We got our canoes in Waterhead<br />

from u-cando.co.uk, from 15 €/hour;<br />

kayaks from 12 €/hour; mountainbikes<br />

25 €.<br />

Pubs, cafés, shops etc.: Wasdale<br />

Head Inn (Pub and B&B), wasdale.<br />

com; Keswick: outdoor shop »Georg<br />

Fischer«; «Café Bar 26« (B&B), excellent<br />

coffee. »Good Taste« Deli and<br />

Bistro (wild pork burger); »Booth’s«<br />

Supermarket with a range of fresh<br />

local products and specialities.<br />

Travel gui<strong>de</strong>: »Rough Gui<strong>de</strong> to the<br />

Lake District« by Jules Brown (2010);<br />

»Lake District« by Jill Turton.<br />

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92 Colleague Globetrotter Colleague Globetrotter 93<br />

Conversion<br />

to a<br />

Globetrotter<br />

Who would ever drop a career in the trendy computer game<br />

scene to sell backpacks? Philipp Clodius would.<br />

He did not regret that step a second.<br />

Some go to a monastery, other people go to see a guru in the<br />

East. Philipp Clodius, 31 years old and an expert on backpacks<br />

at Globetrotter Cologne, goes into the forest. Philipp’s<br />

ticket to peace starts with a ri<strong>de</strong> on the Eifel railway accompanied<br />

by a friend. They get off the train somewhere, hike for a few kilometres<br />

and look for a field to pitch their tent. »And then, a beer after<br />

work and I will sleep like a stone. When the sun rises and the birds<br />

start singing, I wake up straight away. We start walking, have breakfast<br />

at a nice spot later on and then try to hike as much as possible.«,<br />

he explains and laughs. After an XXL hiking day like this or a<br />

similar intensive climbing trip he feels exhausted but happy: »I<br />

feel as snug as a bug in a rug, simply free and balanced.«<br />

Text and Photos: Manuel Arnu<br />

Inner balance means a lot to him. He <strong>de</strong>monstrated this two years<br />

ago when he drew a line un<strong>de</strong>r his first career. He had studied the<br />

media sector at the Fresenius college in Cologne and then started<br />

working for Electronic Arts, one of the biggest producers of computer<br />

and vi<strong>de</strong>o games. Philipp wore a suit, a tie and angular <strong>de</strong>signer<br />

glasses – all in black, of course. The game world is a creative<br />

and dynamic field to be in but Philipp did not feel he quite fitted<br />

in: »The job was creative but I was sitting in my office all day.«<br />

Philipp grew up in Bergisch Gladbach. He was no city kid, he preferred<br />

to go off into the green foothills of the Königsforst. His restart<br />

brought this feeling back alive: off with the suit and away<br />

from the virtual cyber world, and straight back into nature. And >


94<br />

Colleague Globetrotter<br />

Whether he finds the perfect backpack for a Globetrotter customer or goes climbing outsi<strong>de</strong>: Philipp Clodius feels fantastic.<br />

For some people it takes years to broa<strong>de</strong>n their knowledge about the<br />

perfect equipment. Not for Philipp: he studied everything in fast motion.<br />

He read books, did his research online, asked his colleagues.<br />

into a job that is closely connected to nature. Globetrotter Cologne<br />

was just looking for new staff. Philipp applied – knowing that he did<br />

not have a broad knowledge about the great outdoors or equipment.<br />

Gaining knowledge in fast motion<br />

His lack of experience was no secret to the store manager Klaus<br />

Weichbrodt when Philipp sat down with him. And anyway, why<br />

would a successful man with a diploma want to become a sales­<br />

man? Philipp put his cards on the table: he wanted to learn the job<br />

from scratch. If there was a chance later on to climb the career<br />

lad<strong>de</strong>r he would not refuse… He convinced the boss. Philipp started<br />

in the branch store‘s <strong>de</strong>partment for women’s travel, moving to<br />

the backpack <strong>de</strong>partment after half a year.<br />

For some people it takes years to broa<strong>de</strong>n their knowledge about<br />

the perfect equipment. Not for Philipp: He studied everything in<br />

fast motion. He read books, did his research online, asked his<br />

colleagues. »At the beginning, I had so many questions and asked<br />

Photo: Ole Schulz<br />

all of them – so I gained lots of knowledge in the<br />

first months.« Philipp’s mentor is the manager of<br />

the backpack <strong>de</strong>partment Ralf Hünerbein, who<br />

boasts experience from backpacking in Asia, and<br />

colleague Maik Bunzenthal, who likes to spend his<br />

time on winter treks in Scandinavia. Theory needs<br />

its practise though. So Philipp went around with<br />

his bicycle and canoe, started climbing and<br />

indulg ed himself in his intensive camping trips in<br />

the Eifel. The best thing about his autonomous education<br />

program: He loves it.<br />

In <strong>autumn</strong> 2011, head of <strong>de</strong>partment Barbara Esser<br />

suggested Philipp for the Outdoor Aca<strong>de</strong>my of<br />

Scandinavia (OAS) event – a five day trekking tour<br />

through Jämtland. Philipp gets the chance to test<br />

products by Woolpower, Klättermusen, Optimus,<br />

Hilleberg and Haglöfs and broa<strong>de</strong>n his know­how<br />

at the same time. A priceless experience.<br />

The perfect advice on backpacks<br />

Meanwhile Philipp has got infected with the outdoor<br />

virus, and happily passes it on to everybody<br />

else. »You are moving un<strong>de</strong>r your own steam, you<br />

overcome obstacles and experience yourself and<br />

nature so intensively – that’s the best about outdoor<br />

tours! When you come back into everyday<br />

life, you feel truly groun<strong>de</strong>d.«<br />

By now, Philipp knows all the backpacks in the Globetrotter<br />

range by heart. More than 50 mo<strong>de</strong>ls, from<br />

daypacks to backpacks for touring, trekking and<br />

climbing. Backpacks for children, bikers and even<br />

dogs. The range is impressive, advice is nee<strong>de</strong>d.<br />

How do you give the perfect advice? First of all,<br />

Philipp says, you need to know the area of use. It<br />

is a common mistake to use the wrong backpack<br />

in the wrong area. »Some people use a touring<br />

backpack as a trekking backpack or as a backpack<br />

for long distance travel. The touring backpack is<br />

usually ma<strong>de</strong> for a weight of up to 12 kilograms –<br />

most of the time, it is overloa<strong>de</strong>d. So it’s no surprise<br />

when it is uncomfortable and fits like a wet<br />

bag on the back.«<br />

The fit is similarly important. »We convince the<br />

customer to choose the backpack that fits the<br />

best«, explains Philipp. »Brand and colour are not<br />

so important.«<br />

Globetrotter’s most sold backpacks are mainly day<br />

and touring backpacks: backpacks for daily use<br />

when shopping, going to work or for shorter and<br />

longer hiking tours like the Eifelsteig or the Camino<br />

<strong>de</strong> Santiago trail.<br />

Super light daypacks start off at 15 euros. The<br />

most expensive mo<strong>de</strong>l is Bergan’s Alpinist Large,<br />

almost as big as a fridge and it might get as heavy<br />

as one. 135 litres volume, more than 30 kilogram<br />

capacity. »This is a very special backpack ma<strong>de</strong><br />

for long in<strong>de</strong>pen<strong>de</strong>nt trekking tours where you<br />

take lots of fuel and food«, says Philipp. »For example<br />

when you go on a winter trekking tour with<br />

warm clothes or on hunting trips. The Alpinist<br />

Large costs almost 500 euros. It does not get sold<br />

very often. However, if somebody really needs this<br />

backpack and buys it, the customer will be very<br />

happy with it…«<br />

All backpack mo<strong>de</strong>ls are packed with weights so<br />

customers can get a realistic test experience.<br />

Daypacks usually take 5 kilograms, trekking<br />

backpacks for men around 16 kilograms, a little<br />

bit less for women. »We send our customers on a<br />

little travel tour through our store, up the stairs<br />

and down again for at least 15 minutes. Then<br />

you will start to notice if the backpack moves<br />

around and how the weight sits on your muscles<br />

and the body.«<br />

Philipp also helps to adjust the backpacks so they<br />

sit perfectly and the pressure is on the right spot.<br />

»Often, the backpack hangs too low. Customers<br />

cannot un<strong>de</strong>rstand why it feels so heavy and pulls<br />

them backwards. Everybody’s body shape is different<br />

and we help to adjust the backpacks to fit perfectly:<br />

customers feel the difference. They are<br />

sud<strong>de</strong>nly in a totally new world of backpacking«<br />

Friendly and easy-going<br />

Philipp really likes to work with customers: »Every<br />

day, even when it gets exhausting, I enjoy giving<br />

advice and having direct contact to customers. It<br />

is exciting every day, there is always something<br />

new. A man came in the other day in full hiking<br />

outfit and started talking shop about the backpacks<br />

30 and 40 years ago.«<br />

As different as colleagues and customers can be,<br />

they all have one thing in common: »Everybody is<br />

very friendly and easy­going. I haven’t met any<br />

outdoor person who is uptight.«<br />

This opinion seems to be mutual. Cologne’s<br />

head of the backpack <strong>de</strong>partment Ralf Hünerbein<br />

will go on a longer vacation from <strong>autumn</strong><br />

on. The young man who came to backpacks only<br />

two years ago will represent him during that<br />

time: Philipp Clodius.<br />

Last question: Which backpack does Philipp use<br />

the most? Like almost every Globetrotter employee,<br />

he has a full range at home. His first<br />

choice for climbing and weekend trips or tours to<br />

the Eifel in summer is the Deuter ACT Trail 32. »It<br />

is perfect for my back and I can carry up to 12<br />

kilo grams: sleeping mattress and sleeping bag,<br />

clothes, dinner and breakfast; and a bottle of beer<br />

or wine for the after­work drink in the tent.«<br />

Philipp Clodius does not need much more to be at<br />

peace with himself and the world around him. <<br />

CRUISE PWS<br />

JACKET ///<br />

WWW.MILLET.FR


96 Dream Trip Dream Trip 97<br />

The southwest of Utah is<br />

red, hot and stony. But in<br />

between the wasteland,<br />

there is one of the greatest<br />

natural won<strong>de</strong>rs on earth.<br />

A magical world of rocks<br />

and lights. Make sure<br />

you’re ready when you<br />

enter…


98 Dream Trip Dream Trip 99<br />

… because you have<br />

to <strong>de</strong>scend to an<br />

adventurous world of<br />

the slot canyons.<br />

Text: Ingo Hübner<br />

Photos: Diana Haas<br />

Do not jump into your automobile and rush out to the Canyon<br />

country. (…) In the first place you can’t see anything from a car;<br />

you’ve got to get out and walk, or better crawl, on hands and knees<br />

(…). When traces of blood begin to mark your trail, you’ll see<br />

something, maybe.<br />

I remain silent, setting free my last precise thoughts that originate<br />

straight from Edward Abbey’s travel journal. Let them rise along<br />

the glowing red rock walls until they disappear into nothingness in<br />

the ultramarine sky. I am a pilgrim, my mind is pure and dwells in<br />

the freshness of the moment. We have just started walking from<br />

the Temple of Sinawava, equipped with a paltry backpack, two<br />

water bottles and a shoul<strong>de</strong>r-high walking stick. I am moving along<br />

the pilgrim stream along the Virgin River straight into Zion Canyon,<br />

the main attraction of Zion National Park. On the way to the<br />

most infamous canyoning tour in America’s southwest: The<br />

Narrows. The sandstone walls are 600 metres high, and no ten<br />

metres apart at their most narrow point. The hike through the canyon<br />

goes for 20 kilometres, most of the people do not walk further<br />

than the first three kilometres. After one hour, there are hardly any<br />

of the other pilgrims left.<br />

Gui<strong>de</strong> Rob has not talked much. I ask him why he has not told us<br />

anything. He says he wanted to let nature tell its own story. I ask<br />

him, who Sinawava was. It is the name of a powerful Paiute Indian<br />

<strong>de</strong>ity that used to live in the area but did not occupy the canyon.<br />

Sinawa means God of tranquillity and kindness and was responsible<br />

for the harvest of the Paiute natives. On the park’s entrance,<br />

the rock Kinasava is sitting there enthroned. This was an evil spirit<br />

that is said to have resi<strong>de</strong>d in the canyon. This is the reason why<br />

Not only stones but also sticks block the way into Slot Canyon.<br />

the Paitute Indians did not settle down near him and only ventured<br />

into the park at daytime. Slowly, Rob starts talking. He is<br />

very earthbound: long blond, messy hair, a tangy summer canyongui<strong>de</strong><br />

odour is in the air. He tells us the story of Zion Canyon’s<br />

great power that attracted many people who moved to Springdale,<br />

the town at the entrance – but had to leave the place after a few<br />

years because they could not handle its power emotionally. Zion<br />

Canyon is supposed to reinforce your karma, too. Rob smiles mischievously.<br />

We wa<strong>de</strong> through water, an invisible stream is pulling<br />

us, we climb across rocks. I get a strong physical feeling for such<br />

sublime nature in its monumental solitu<strong>de</strong>. Until we reach Wall<br />

Street, a weird name for such a quiet place. I marvel with a stiff<br />

neck, feeling tiny, nearly crushed by dignity turned into stone. So<br />

here it is, the power of the rock, of the canyon that Rob was talking<br />

about.<br />

Getting lost in a place<br />

Utah’s southwest boasts a magnificent landscape. It attracted<br />

many people of different kinds with its magnetic character. Mormons<br />

were looking for freedom, artists searched for inspiration<br />

and solitu<strong>de</strong>. Thomas Moran painted it, Everett Ruess turned it<br />

into poetry. It was them who glorified the landscape, raised it to<br />

divinity and turned the rough and remote <strong>de</strong>sert into a place of<br />

dreams and their <strong>de</strong>sire. It is a place they and many others got lost<br />

in. Everett Ruess is probably the most famous artist of the gettinglost-type.<br />

At the same time, he is most clou<strong>de</strong>d in secrecy. He got<br />

it right with just one marketing trick: »I’ve become a little too >


100<br />

Dream Trip<br />

»When you walk long enough through Slot Canyon,<br />

you can rub yourself against the soft sand stone,<br />

rub yourself until you disappear.«<br />

different from most of the rest of the world. (…) As to when I shall<br />

visit civilization again, it will not be soon, I think. (…) I prefer the<br />

saddle to the streetcar and star-sprinkled sky to a roof, the obscure<br />

and difficult trail, leading into the unknown, to any paved highway,<br />

and the <strong>de</strong>ep peace of the wild to the discontent bred by cities«,<br />

wrote Everett Ruess in his last letter to his brother Waldo,<br />

packed his two mules and entered the Davis Canyon, a si<strong>de</strong>-canyon<br />

of the Escalante River near the town Escalante, and was never<br />

to be seen again. It was November 1934, Ruess was 20 years old.<br />

His poetry and his <strong>de</strong>parture without any compromise have ma<strong>de</strong><br />

him a cult figure today (more on page 103). Still, many myths and<br />

legends about what became of him breeze through the canyons of<br />

southern Utah.<br />

You really get un<strong>de</strong>rneath the surface of the mysterious area while<br />

you walk through the slot canyon: The walls press the air out of<br />

your lounges when you try to squeeze through the most narrow<br />

spots. When you walk long enough, you can rub yourself against<br />

the soft sand stone, rub yourself until you disappear. It might be<br />

the way Everett Ruess did it to become one with nature. »A short<br />

while ago they found dusted bones in the area where Ruess disappeared.<br />

It was quiet a media event because they claimed they<br />

were his remains. Scientists examined the bones but found out<br />

that they were from a different time«, Bill sums up the latest<br />

news. Today, he leads the Slot-Canyon-Tour together with Lanell.<br />

In the tight womb of mother earth.<br />

Aflame: evening walk in Snow Canyon State Park.<br />

Enough talk. Difficult canyon terrain in front of us with passages<br />

that require long ropes – Bill doesn’t want to tell us how long – in<br />

an area you could end up like Ruess. You can still see Zion’s<br />

mountains, Lanell points to the horizon before we make our way<br />

down. We sli<strong>de</strong> into a kind of rock tube, walk for a few metres, and<br />

there is already the next gap in the rock. Behind it, the sky and<br />

nothing else. Bill and Lanell ask us how far we think it goes down.<br />

10 metres? 15? 20? A little bit more, replies Lanell and smiles.<br />

Get us ready for the <strong>de</strong>scent! Belay, throw the rope and so on. No<br />

problem, I just learned it all yesterday. Bill checks the belay system<br />

once more carefully, eventually we all have to go down there.<br />

For a second I feel like James Bond and I arrive one skyscraper<br />

<strong>de</strong>eper. Even more far away from civilisation and the world. We<br />

thought we were already far away before. In the tight womb of<br />

moth er earth, Novalis would have loved the feeling of security and<br />

comfort. An elusive security because you cannot go back. We are<br />

all by ourselves, says Bill succinctly, when he unclips the safety<br />

carabiner and it falls in front of feet into the sand. Some foolish<br />

people dared to enter the slot canyons without a gui<strong>de</strong> although it<br />

is technically very <strong>de</strong>manding. The problem is the length of the<br />

rope they might un<strong>de</strong>restimate. So they might have to stop when<br />

The water can get pretty <strong>de</strong>ep in Zion Canyon. Sometimes you have to watch out you do not turn to stone in awe.<br />

high barriers are in their way or end up at a rock plateau high ><br />

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102<br />

Dream Trip<br />

above the ground. Each year somebody has to get rescued.<br />

The walls still open up to the top like a V but the <strong>de</strong>eper the water<br />

cut into the rock, the steeper and closer they get. After a while the<br />

blue sky is only a tiny gap high above us. Tons of heavy sand stone<br />

blocks, torn out by the water centuries ago, obstruct our way or are<br />

wedged up high between the walls. Now it is an especially wi<strong>de</strong><br />

way and Bill sli<strong>de</strong>s into a gap between block and wall until we can<br />

only see his upper body: »You have to push your bottom against<br />

the wall and sli<strong>de</strong> down slowly until you can push your feet against<br />

»These canyons are special places where you experience<br />

nature‘s power in a very special way. Each one feels like a<br />

spiritual experience.«<br />

Is it only light or a divine revelation?<br />

the wall«, he explains with an exhausted look on his face. Our tailbones<br />

will thank us tonight, at least Edward Abbey would be proud<br />

of us – if he was still alive. Those are my trains of thought while I<br />

hang in the gap, scraping my skin, blood begins to run and my feet<br />

cannot find the opposite wall. Bill asks: »How many words for bottom<br />

are there in German?« Po, Arsch, Hintern… We try to think of<br />

all the different versions while I somehow manage to sli<strong>de</strong> down –<br />

Bill and Lanell repeat all the words like parrots. Even our laughter<br />

sounds lost in reverie in this own world. The Slot Canyon becomes<br />

Short life in solitu<strong>de</strong> and poetry<br />

When Everett Ruess disappeared<br />

in Utah in 1934, he<br />

had just turned 20. Up till<br />

today, numerous myths and<br />

many unsolved questions wind<br />

around his disappearance and<br />

his person. One thing is clear:<br />

Ruess was a talented poet,<br />

evi<strong>de</strong>nced by his poetic nature<br />

<strong>de</strong>scriptions. He left them behind<br />

in his many letters to his<br />

family. He also drew, created<br />

woodcuts and painted during<br />

his long and lonely travels through<br />

the untouched nature of the American<br />

West. Nowadays, he is often seen as<br />

an earlier Jack Kerouac or a Catcher in<br />

the Rye who turned the canyon’s rough<br />

landscape into a setting in the search<br />

of himself. Everett Ruess’ life is so<br />

fascinating because he took responsibility<br />

for his actions, his <strong>de</strong>cision to<br />

live life to the extreme. When he was<br />

16, Ruess – born in Oakland, lived in<br />

L.A. – set off into the wild in California.<br />

Later on he discovered Arizona<br />

and Utah as his main elements for his<br />

painting. It was the start of his long<br />

solitu<strong>de</strong> travels.<br />

Literature: »A Vagabond for Beauty«<br />

by W.L. Rusho. It inclu<strong>de</strong>s Ruess’<br />

letters as well as reports on his disappearance<br />

and the search for him.<br />

tighter and tighter, abrasions bloodier and bloodier, the atmosphere<br />

more intimate. It bleeds into the conversations between<br />

climbing and abseiling: We talk about dreams, <strong>de</strong>sires, recipes for<br />

good relationships, our lifelines. Bill who was a <strong>de</strong>ep-sea diver in<br />

another life, built a hut close to the Observation Point in Zion. If<br />

possible, he wants to stay there forever. He is only 41. Lanell always<br />

wanted to live outsi<strong>de</strong>, Zion is his dream come true. A year<br />

ago she arrived in the <strong>de</strong>sert. Previously she had a fulfilling job in<br />

trendy San Francisco. All that was nothing in comparison to<br />

guiding Slot-Canyon Tours.<br />

»Those canyons are special places. I gain the power of elements in<br />

a very special manner, I feel connected to them. Each time I am in<br />

a canyon it is a spiritual experience«, she tries to capture her feelings<br />

in words. Bill agrees, silently nodding, his blue eyes seem to<br />

shine of happiness. We keep walking silently, the silence talks to<br />

us. I try to see, let my eyes wan<strong>de</strong>r along the filigreed vibrations of<br />

the walls. I feel insi<strong>de</strong>. Contours, textures, chasing in the sand<br />

stone – the rings of Saturn, orbits of planets, spiral galaxies. The<br />

whole universe, formed by sandstone. Light never hits the ><br />

Courtesy from the Ruess Family<br />

Du brauchst<br />

<strong>de</strong>inen Rücken.<br />

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braucht Kraft.<br />

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104<br />

Dream Trip<br />

Even a cloudburst is a grandiose event in Zion.<br />

ground of the canyon directly but jumps from wall to wall and<br />

sli<strong>de</strong>s down along the curves. And then, the sandstone lights up in<br />

several red sha<strong>de</strong>s as if somebody has illuminate the rocks from<br />

the insi<strong>de</strong>. The curtain drops with that last scene. We step out into<br />

a hot late afternoon. On our way back another spectacle: dove grey<br />

thun<strong>de</strong>r clouds gather on the horizon, rays of sunshine hit through<br />

them like a swords down to Zion. Shortly after, the bottom of the<br />

clouds are flamingo and salmon-coloured, the mountain peaks are<br />

ruby-red. Bill grins: »We even got a word for that scenery: zionesk!«<br />

The messenger of <strong>de</strong>ath in my neck<br />

I am being pulled <strong>de</strong>eper and <strong>de</strong>eper into the emptiness, heat and<br />

solitu<strong>de</strong>; the relentless call of the southwest has gripped me. Or in<br />

Everett Ruess’ words: »A few days ago I ro<strong>de</strong> into the red rocks and<br />

sandy <strong>de</strong>sert again and it was like coming home again.« Innumerable<br />

slot canyons exist in and around the Zion National Park as<br />

well as east of it, in the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument.<br />

I <strong>de</strong>ci<strong>de</strong> for the king of the slot canyons, the Buckskin<br />

Gulch. It is the longest of its kind, it takes two days to measure it.<br />

The Buckskin Gulch has a similar feel to it as the Grand Canyon<br />

with the fine difference that there is far and wi<strong>de</strong> not a soul that<br />

you can share your feelings with. Oh well, I am not totally alone.<br />

The messenger of <strong>de</strong>ath is sitting in my neck: a raven. Patiently<br />

waiting on rocks only a few metres away from me. If I happen to<br />

bite the dust – which cannot be ruled out as there are regular<br />

spring floods that rush through the canyon, or I could get hurt and<br />

die of thirst – the raven will not wait any second longer but get my<br />

eyes. The perception makes me see again. This time, my insi<strong>de</strong> –<br />

crystal clear. And sud<strong>de</strong>nly I know what kind of seeing Edward<br />

Abbey really meant.<br />

<<br />

Canyons of the American Southwest<br />

Getting There<br />

The best way to start for Utah‘s<br />

southwest is Las Vergas. US Airways<br />

leaves e.g. from Frankfurt to Las Vegas,<br />

usaairways.<strong>de</strong>. The flight leaves in the<br />

morning, an overnight stop is possible<br />

e.g. close to the airport at Carathotel,<br />

carat-hotel.<strong>de</strong>. Cheap rental cars at<br />

Alamo, alamo.<strong>de</strong>.<br />

Accommodation<br />

Central in Las Vegas is Bellagio, bookable<br />

via ADAC Travel, adacreisen.<strong>de</strong>.<br />

Recommendable is the Cable Mountain<br />

Lodge in Springdale, it’s on the bor<strong>de</strong>r<br />

to ZION NP so it is only a few steps<br />

to the park and the shuttle buses.<br />

cablemountainlodge.com.<br />

Canyoning and Slot-Canyon-Hiking<br />

Zion Adventure Company is also located<br />

in Springdale. You can book tours or<br />

borrow equipment, zionadventures.com.<br />

Find an overview of the Slot Canyons<br />

and its equipment <strong>de</strong>mands on<br />

americansouthwest.net/slot_canyons.<br />

Salt Lake City<br />

NEVADA UTAH<br />

Las Vegas<br />

0 250<br />

ARIZONA<br />

500 km<br />

Colorado<br />

Denver<br />

COLORADO<br />

NEW MEXICO<br />

1. Zion NP<br />

2. Bryce Canyon NP<br />

3. Capitol Reef NP<br />

Si<strong>de</strong> trips<br />

When you are in the area it is worth visiting<br />

the Bryce Canyons. You can go on<br />

slot canyon tours in the Grand Straicase<br />

Escalante NM. Stay overnight at Bryce<br />

Canyon Grand, brycecanyongrand.com.<br />

Worth seeing: Capitol Reef National<br />

Park. Accommodation at Torrey Schoolhouse<br />

in Torrey, torreyschoolhouse.com.<br />

Travel information Utah in Germany<br />

Visitor Information Centre Utah,<br />

Neumarkt 33, 50667 Cologne, phone<br />

+49 2 21/233 64 06, goutah.<strong>de</strong> and<br />

atozion.com.<br />

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106<br />

Getaway<br />

Preview: Globetrotter’s Highlights in Autumn<br />

An ice bear waiting for the winter to come. Globetrotter Berlin shows the<br />

consequences of the climate change in its exhibition »Arktische Spirale«<br />

starting 1 September. On 27 September, Sina Muster holds a presentation<br />

on her research in Canada. Information: arktischespirale.<strong>de</strong>.<br />

4-SeaSOnS.Tv<br />

Family Hiking Tips<br />

Hiking and Trekking Tra<strong>de</strong> Fair<br />

Saving up for TourNatur<br />

Globetrotter takes part in Düsseldorf’s<br />

TourNatur (31 August – 2 September), offering<br />

many products at attractive tra<strong>de</strong>-fair prices<br />

(Hall 2, Booth C32).<br />

Information: tournatur.com.<br />

4-SeaSOnS.<strong>de</strong><br />

Surfing the Desert<br />

Even the soft toy fits into a<br />

backpack! More tips from<br />

Globetrotter experts:<br />

4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.tv/film/ausruestungsberatung-familienwan<strong>de</strong>rn.<br />

Dennis Crosby and Aaron<br />

Blankenburg went through<br />

Tunisia on longboards.<br />

Have a look: 4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.<strong>de</strong>/<br />

longboard.<br />

STOre evenT<br />

Studying Bird Language<br />

Cheep or tweet? Globetrotter Frankfurt runs<br />

courses on bird language. The Wurzeltrapp<br />

wraps up the tweet in a two-day introduction.<br />

25/26 August and 20/21 October in the outdoor<br />

centre Lahntal. More at 4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.<strong>de</strong>/vogelsprache.<br />

arT in THe STOre<br />

Interesting Stuff Washed Up<br />

In Globetrotter Munich, Skeleton<br />

Sea exhibits real art<br />

work ma<strong>de</strong> from rubbish<br />

wash ed ashore.<br />

4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.<strong>de</strong>/skeletonsea.<br />

4-SeaSOnS.Tv<br />

Speeding up Cho Oyu<br />

The world’s sixth highest peak is the goal of<br />

Benedikt Böhm und Sebastian Haag – speed<br />

climbing up and skiing down to the base<br />

camp. The expedition is at 4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.tv/<br />

cho-oyu.<br />

More Online<br />

evenTS & daTeS<br />

Globetrotter organises more than one<br />

hundred events each year ranging<br />

from presentations to GPS courses.<br />

Additionally, 4-<strong>Seasons</strong> editors<br />

suggest further events for outdoor<br />

fans. Find all events and a search<br />

function at globetrotter.<strong>de</strong>/events<br />

and 4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.<strong>de</strong>/termine.<br />

OuTdOOr newS & repOrTS<br />

Daily news, travel stories, background<br />

information and surf tips – always up<br />

to date on 4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.<strong>de</strong>.<br />

OuTdOOr FilmS and vi<strong>de</strong>O advice<br />

Moving pictures of outdoor sports, the<br />

environment, equipment, events and<br />

much more: head over to our<br />

colleagues‘ website 4-<strong>Seasons</strong>.tv.<br />

Photo: Sina Muster<br />

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