PRESTIGE

F E AT U R E
Every now and again in the
world of premium spirits
something so special
comes along, either by
happy accident or careful
experimenting, that no
mere bottle, no matter how elegant,
can do it justice.
Malus Domestica is a relatively
common South African eating apple
from which, together with other
varieties, a cider of uncompromising
quality is skilfully made. Unlike the
fiery apple brandy Calvados, in which
the manufacturing process begins with
almost inedible, bitter cooking apples,
unhurried tree-ripening maximises the
subtle, harmonious flavours and helps
impart the perfect sugar balance to the
infant Malus. The apples chosen are
pulped, the juice filtered and some
yeast added to start the fermentation
process, which takes between six
weeks and three months.
Founding partner and director of
the Elgin Distilling Company,
producers of Malus, Tim George grew
up in the lush and drowsy apple
orchards of Somerset and Kent. “Each
116 preStiGe
Malus
A Thousand Years in Every Sip
Inspired by tradition, distinct from so many other spirits and available only on
application, Malus is the ultimate hand-crafted, limited-release spirit.
barrel of the cider,” he says, “passes
through our Cognac-style still twice.
Contact with the copper helps
preserve the aromatic complexity and
the flavours. It’s not the most efficient
method, admittedly, but there’s
nothing to touch the result.”
Maturation in second-fill oak
barrels, the same process that the
better whisky-makers use, smooths
off the harsh edges. “The oak imparts
a special flavour to the spirit that
helps give it its character,” says
George. “What you want is the
moment where the apple and wood
balance into a perfect complexity and
‘nose’. We think we’ve got it right.
We’re pretty proud of it.”
Just outside Elgin in the Western
Cape, the De Rust estate is home to
Elgin Distilling as well as to Paul
Cluver Wines. “We built a Cognacstyle
pot still right there, among the
apples on the estate,” says George. No
additives, flavourants, maturation
accelerants or anything else is added
to Malus. “It’s a consequence of
the natural conditions in the Elgin
environment.” He describes the taste
as such: “Malus has a fragrant
apple nose, rich and rewarding on
the palate and with a hint of nut. It
roams around the mouth, and it isn’t
overly spirituous or ‘hot’ when
served neat.”
Based in Worcester near Cape
Town, South African master
glassmaker, David Reade, was
commissioned to create an elegant,
cut-glass decanter for the inaugural
release. His design, faithfully
following the makers’ minimalist
approach, symbolically reflects each
drop of its precious cargo, and the
only branding on each numbered and
signed decanter is underneath the
stopper, where it can’t be seen unless
you’re looking for it.
Only 1,000 decanters will be
issued this year, and at about R2,500
per bottle, Malus – if you can get it,
for it is only available on application,
remember – is a product that will
afford you a wonderful, subjective
experience.
Contact +27 21 844 0061,
email enquiries@malus.co.za, or visit
www.malus.co.za. �
Words: GAVIN BARFIelD Image: © elGIN DIsTIllING COMPANY