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Download the full program as PDF - Fashion Film Festival

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MUSEUM OF THE MOVING IMAGE<br />

sAturDAY, April 23<br />

2:00pm<br />

cobra Woman<br />

Dir. Robert Siodmak, 1944, 117 mins.<br />

With Maria Montez, John Hall, Sabu<br />

Costumes by Vera West, sets Russel A.<br />

Gausman, Ira Webb<br />

A star of Universal’s Technicolor<br />

adventure films in <strong>the</strong> 1940s, <strong>the</strong><br />

Dominican-born siren Maria Montez<br />

became <strong>the</strong> centrepiece of Jack Smith’s<br />

Hollywood idolatry two decades later.<br />

(Smith famously singled Montez out in<br />

his essay “The Perfect <strong>Film</strong>ic Appositeness<br />

of Maria Montez.”) The star who<br />

founded her own fan club and who<br />

reportedly once exclaimed “When I see<br />

myself on <strong>the</strong> screen, I am so beautiful,<br />

I jump for joy” w<strong>as</strong> a blueprint for <strong>the</strong><br />

(admittedly more knowing and parodic)<br />

campness and narcissism of Jack<br />

Smith’s stars. With reference to Montez,<br />

Smith stated that bad acting can in<br />

fact expose a priceless slice of life, an<br />

approach echoed in Andy Warhol’s cinema.<br />

In Cobra Woman Montez is c<strong>as</strong>t in<br />

a dual role <strong>as</strong> Tollea of <strong>the</strong> South Se<strong>as</strong><br />

and her evil sister Naja, priestess of<br />

<strong>the</strong> Cobra People on a forbidden island.<br />

The film showc<strong>as</strong>es her charms in Vera<br />

West’s sensuously soft, p<strong>as</strong>tel gowns<br />

<strong>as</strong> well <strong>as</strong> more gaudy outfits. West<br />

w<strong>as</strong> a former f<strong>as</strong>hion designer trained<br />

by Lucile and became <strong>the</strong> doyenne of<br />

costume design for horror and monster<br />

movies in <strong>the</strong> 1930s and 1940s.<br />

Frame enlargement from Cobra Woman, dir Robert Siodmak, 1944.<br />

4:30pm<br />

Flaming creatures<br />

and sensuous ple<strong>as</strong>ures<br />

Total running time 55 mins.<br />

Flaming creatures<br />

Dir. Jack Smith, 1963, 43 mins.<br />

With Francis Francine, Sheila Bick, Mario<br />

Montez, Joel Markman<br />

Costumes by Jack Smith and actors<br />

Flaming Creatures, dir Jack Smith, 1963. Courtesy<br />

of F<strong>as</strong>hion in <strong>Film</strong> <strong>Festival</strong> and The <strong>Film</strong>-Makers’ Cooperative.<br />

Deemed obscene by New York State,<br />

Smith’s revolutionary Flaming Creatures<br />

is an elusive m<strong>as</strong>terpiece which<br />

continues to f<strong>as</strong>cinate. Shot in blackand-white<br />

on outdated film stock,<br />

it reproduces some of <strong>the</strong> sensuous<br />

ple<strong>as</strong>ures and high glamor from Hollywood’s<br />

golden days, especially referencing<br />

such stars <strong>as</strong> Marlene Dietrich and<br />

Smith’s beloved Maria Montez. He gives<br />

his cross-dressed actors <strong>the</strong> freedom<br />

to preen, dance, and play<strong>full</strong>y inhabit<br />

<strong>the</strong> rapturous and exotic fant<strong>as</strong>ies of<br />

Hollywood cinema. Through a combination<br />

of fant<strong>as</strong>tic tableau-vivant compositions<br />

and cinéma vérité camerawork,<br />

Smith brilliantly transforms his b<strong>as</strong>ic<br />

set and thrift store ‘couture’ into a dazzling,<br />

Sternberg-like mise-en-scène.<br />

<strong>the</strong> most Wonderful Fans<br />

of <strong>the</strong> World<br />

(De mooiste waaiers ter wereld)<br />

Dir. unknown, 1927, Ne<strong>the</strong>rlands/<br />

France, 12 mins.<br />

With Pépa Bonafé; Komarova, Korgine,<br />

Sergine; John Tiller Follies Stars<br />

This is a luxuriously stencilled short<br />

film shot in France and distributed<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Ne<strong>the</strong>rlands in 1927. Like <strong>the</strong><br />

better-known <strong>full</strong>-feature La Revue des<br />

revues, it w<strong>as</strong> filmed on <strong>the</strong> stage of a<br />

Parisian music hall, only this time it is<br />

considerably snappier and presented<br />

without an over-arching narrative<br />

framework. The film includes Orientalist<br />

numbers such <strong>as</strong> “In <strong>the</strong> Temple of<br />

<strong>the</strong> Fakirs” and “The Chinese Fan” and<br />

makes great use of close-ups.<br />

7:00pm<br />

Drag glamour<br />

total running time 95 mins.<br />

Frame enlargement from The Most Wonderful Fans<br />

of <strong>the</strong> World, dir unknown, 1927. Courtesy EYE <strong>Film</strong><br />

Institute Ne<strong>the</strong>rlands<br />

This <strong>program</strong> pairs Jose Rodriguez-<br />

Soltero’s lavish Lupe with Ron Rice’s<br />

landmark psychedelic m<strong>as</strong>terpiece<br />

Chumlum. It features two of <strong>the</strong> most<br />

accomplished uses of superimposition<br />

in underground film, transporting drag<br />

glamor into a psychedelic, cubist-like<br />

dimension.

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