Download the full program as PDF - Fashion Film Festival
Download the full program as PDF - Fashion Film Festival
Download the full program as PDF - Fashion Film Festival
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<strong>the</strong> ple<strong>as</strong>ure in each t<strong>as</strong>k. After his first visit to <strong>the</strong> rooftop set of Flaming Creatures,<br />
Tony Conrad commented on how surprised he w<strong>as</strong> “when it turned out that<br />
people took three hours to put on <strong>the</strong>ir makeup” and “when people took several<br />
more hours to put on <strong>the</strong>ir costumes.” 10 Andy Warhol witnessed a similar scene on<br />
<strong>the</strong> set of Smith’s Normal Love: “preparations for every shooting were like a party—<br />
hours and hours of people putting makeup on and getting into costumes and<br />
building sets.” 11 According to Markopoulos, Smith “spent hours, a whole night”<br />
before shooting Normal Love, “arranging, changing, shifting, replacing, placing objects,<br />
people, cheese cloths, fabrics about a prefabricated moon pool.” 12 As Stefan<br />
Brecht commented on <strong>the</strong> community that came toge<strong>the</strong>r in <strong>the</strong> Theater of <strong>the</strong><br />
Ridiculous, “while <strong>the</strong> framework of reference of conventional <strong>the</strong>ater experience is<br />
<strong>the</strong> individual presentation of <strong>the</strong> play, in this <strong>the</strong>ater it is <strong>the</strong> [collective] production<br />
of <strong>the</strong> play—<strong>the</strong> series of presentations, rehearsals, composition of <strong>the</strong> script<br />
… <strong>the</strong> performance gives a glimpse into a process of personal interactions within<br />
a continuing community, everyone contributing personally.” 13 Or <strong>as</strong> Michael Moon<br />
puts it, this community of performers created a “voluptuous fringe” 14 —<strong>the</strong> creative<br />
excess which Flaming Creatures and Chumlum document so brilliantly.<br />
Lupe, Rodriguez-Soltero’s homage to <strong>the</strong> Mexican-born<br />
actress Lupe Velez, displayed Montez’s capacity for self-transformation more than<br />
any o<strong>the</strong>r film. Like Maria Montez, Velez’s B-movie career and tragic end led to her<br />
becoming a gay diva (she committed suicide in 1944). Velez became a star in <strong>the</strong><br />
late 1920s and w<strong>as</strong> a major focus of <strong>the</strong> tabloids due to her high-profile romance<br />
with Gary Cooper and subsequent marriage to Johnny Weissmuller. Toward <strong>the</strong><br />
end of her film career she starred in <strong>the</strong> B-movie Mexican Spitfire comedy series at<br />
RKO, playing a stereotyped fiery Spanish woman.<br />
Rodriguez-Soltero’s Lupe stands in sharp contr<strong>as</strong>t<br />
to Andy Warhol’s Lupe (1966), made at <strong>the</strong> same time. While Warhol focusses<br />
on <strong>the</strong> sad, lonely, sordid end of Velez’s life, Rodriguez-Soltero and Montez<br />
celebrate her operatic-like successes and tragedies. They portray her <strong>as</strong> choosing<br />
and living a life of excess, and even in her death <strong>the</strong>y show her body and soul<br />
<strong>as</strong>cending to a saintly, inspirational place. Unlike Warhol’s minimalist, deadpan<br />
aes<strong>the</strong>tic, with its improvisational, long take structure, Rodriguez-Soltero’s Lupe<br />
is “visually very generous,” <strong>as</strong> Sontag would have put it. <strong>Film</strong>ed on Ektachrome-<br />
EF and printed on Kodachrome-II stock, it contains exuberant explosions of Vera<br />
West-like reds and greens and amazing superimpositions shot in <strong>the</strong> camera.<br />
This lavishness draws loving attention to Mario Montez’s costumes and makeup.<br />
While Warhol’s film depicts <strong>the</strong> self-destruction of <strong>the</strong> star (played by Edie<br />
Sedgwick), Rodriguez-Soltero’s Lupe celebrates <strong>the</strong> freedom and ple<strong>as</strong>ure of Mario<br />
Montez’s transformation into this cherished actress, relishing his <strong>as</strong>cension and<br />
departure from ordinary life—a life constrained by political, moral, and economic<br />
structures—into an alternative space of glamor and ple<strong>as</strong>ure.<br />
By creating an unfettered “cinema of attractions,”<br />
Smith, Mario Montez and <strong>the</strong>ir contemporaries<br />
appropriated Hollywood excess in order to construct<br />
and perform <strong>the</strong>ir own utopian spaces of ple<strong>as</strong>ure. Their<br />
glamour and gestures, generous visuals and vibrant<br />
music created spaces of ple<strong>as</strong>ure for both audience<br />
and performers. They enabled a group of impoverished<br />
filmmakers and actors to affirm <strong>the</strong>ir lives and <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
right to existence. Anything but abject, <strong>the</strong>y became<br />
<strong>the</strong> exotic, glamorous and confident Scheherazade and<br />
Cobra Woman.<br />
contributors to neW YorK seAson<br />
jerry carlson is Professor and Acting<br />
Chair of <strong>the</strong> Department of Media<br />
& Communication Arts at The City<br />
College and a member of <strong>the</strong> doctoral<br />
faculties of French, <strong>Film</strong> Studies, and<br />
Comparative Literature at <strong>the</strong> Graduate<br />
Center, CUNY. A multiple Emmy<br />
award-winning Senior Producer for<br />
CUNY-TV, he created and produces <strong>the</strong><br />
series City Cinema<strong>the</strong>que about film<br />
history, among o<strong>the</strong>rs.<br />
stuart comer is Curator of <strong>Film</strong> at<br />
Tate Modern, London. He oversees film<br />
and video work for <strong>the</strong> Tate Collection<br />
and Displays and organises an extensive<br />
<strong>program</strong> of screenings, forums and<br />
lectures focusing on current cultural issues<br />
and <strong>the</strong> history of artists’ film and<br />
video. He h<strong>as</strong> contributed to numerous<br />
publications and periodicals, including<br />
Artforum; Frieze; Afterall; Parkett; and<br />
Art Review. Recent freelance curatorial<br />
projects include ‘Andy, <strong>as</strong> you know I<br />
am writing a movie...’ at Beirut Art Center<br />
and <strong>the</strong> 2007 Lyon Biennial.<br />
caroline evans is Professor of F<strong>as</strong>hion<br />
History and Theory at Central Saint<br />
Martins College of Art and Design, University<br />
of <strong>the</strong> Arts London. She h<strong>as</strong> published<br />
widely on f<strong>as</strong>hion in <strong>the</strong> 20th and<br />
21st centuries. Her recent publications<br />
include F<strong>as</strong>hion at <strong>the</strong> Edge: Spectacle,<br />
Modernity and Deathliness (Yale UP,<br />
2003) and The House of Viktor & Rolf<br />
(co-authored with Susannah Frankel,<br />
Merrell, 2008). Her forthcoming book<br />
Modelling Modernity: F<strong>as</strong>hion Shows in<br />
France and America 1900-1929 (Yale<br />
UP) is due to be published in 2012.<br />
inga Fr<strong>as</strong>er is Associate Curator of<br />
F<strong>as</strong>hion in <strong>Film</strong> at Central Saint Martins<br />
College of Art and Design, University<br />
of <strong>the</strong> Arts London. She h<strong>as</strong> cocurated<br />
and coordinated major projects<br />
including Kinoscope Parlour (London,<br />
2010) and <strong>the</strong> forthcoming “colour inventory”<br />
installation for Arnhem Mode<br />
Biennale.<br />
ron gregg is Senior Lecturer in<br />
American Studies and <strong>Film</strong> Studies<br />
and Director of <strong>Film</strong> Programming for<br />
<strong>the</strong> Whitney Humanities Center at Yale<br />
University. He h<strong>as</strong> published articles<br />
and curated <strong>program</strong>s primarily on topics<br />
of gay identity and queer representation,<br />
for festivals internationally including<br />
<strong>the</strong> San Francisco International<br />
LGBT <strong>Film</strong> <strong>Festival</strong>, Chicago Gay and<br />
Lesbian <strong>Film</strong> <strong>Festival</strong>, and <strong>the</strong> South<br />
African Gay and Lesbian <strong>Film</strong> <strong>Festival</strong>.<br />
Amy Herzog is Associate Professor of<br />
Media Studies and Coordinator of <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Film</strong> Studies Program at Queens College.<br />
She is also a member of <strong>the</strong> Ph.D.<br />
Program in Theatre at <strong>the</strong> Graduate<br />
Center, CUNY. She h<strong>as</strong> published articles<br />
and chapters on a number of topics,<br />
including <strong>the</strong> philosophy of Gilles<br />
Deleuze, film <strong>the</strong>ory, musical film, and<br />
<strong>the</strong> history of coin-operated film machines.<br />
Her book, Dreams of Difference,<br />
Songs of <strong>the</strong> Same: The Musical Moment<br />
in <strong>Film</strong> (University of Minnesota Press)<br />
w<strong>as</strong> published in 2010.<br />
stephen Horne is one of <strong>the</strong> leading silent<br />
film accompanists b<strong>as</strong>ed in <strong>the</strong> UK.<br />
His speciality is to combine up to three<br />
instruments in one live score—piano,<br />
flute and accordion. He is a house pianist<br />
at <strong>the</strong> BFI Southbank and plays<br />
for festivals and venues internationally,<br />
including Lincoln Center New York,<br />
<strong>the</strong> National Gallery, W<strong>as</strong>hington and<br />
Pordenone <strong>Film</strong> <strong>Festival</strong>.<br />
pat Kirkham is Professor at <strong>the</strong> Bard<br />
Gradaute Center: Decorative Arts,<br />
Design History, Material Culture, New<br />
York. She is a distinguished historian<br />
of design and h<strong>as</strong> also written widely<br />
on film and gender. She is <strong>the</strong> editor<br />
of Women Designers in <strong>the</strong> USA, 1900-<br />
2000: Diversity and Difference (Yale<br />
University Press, 2000) and author of<br />
Charles and Ray Eames: Designers of<br />
<strong>the</strong> Twentieth Century (MIT Press, 1995)<br />
among many o<strong>the</strong>rs.