23.03.2013 Views

Download the full program as PDF - Fashion Film Festival

Download the full program as PDF - Fashion Film Festival

Download the full program as PDF - Fashion Film Festival

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

MUSEUM OF THE MOVING IMAGE<br />

FriDAY, April 15<br />

7:00pm<br />

underground opulence<br />

Bursting with color, this <strong>program</strong><br />

reconnects <strong>the</strong> avant-garde queer<br />

sensibility of underground film not<br />

with its literal inspirations (Hollywood<br />

icons such <strong>as</strong> Alla Nazimova, Marlene<br />

Dietrich, or Maria Montez) but ra<strong>the</strong>r<br />

with some genres in early film which—<br />

with <strong>the</strong>ir ornamental costumes<br />

and décor—anticipate some of <strong>the</strong><br />

richness of <strong>the</strong> underground’s camp<br />

aes<strong>the</strong>ticism.<br />

Total running time: 130 mins.<br />

Introduced by David Schwartz and<br />

Marketa Uhlirova<br />

Live music by Makia Matsumura<br />

tit for tat<br />

(la peine du talion)<br />

Dir. G<strong>as</strong>ton Velle, Pathé Frères,<br />

1906, France<br />

Gloriously winged insects seek revenge<br />

for <strong>the</strong> injustices brought about by <strong>the</strong><br />

popular practice of lepidoptery: <strong>the</strong><br />

catching of butterflies and moths for<br />

<strong>the</strong> purpose of scientific observation.<br />

Velle’s richly colored film is one of <strong>the</strong><br />

finest examples of its kind.<br />

metempsychosis (métempsycose)<br />

Dir. Segundo de Chomón, Pathé Frères,<br />

1907, France<br />

The special effects pioneer Segundo de<br />

Chomón reinterprets for <strong>the</strong> camera<br />

a famous stage illusion that featured<br />

a metamorphosis from one object (or<br />

person) into ano<strong>the</strong>r. A statue turns into<br />

a butterfly fairy who performs a number<br />

of ravishing costume transformations.<br />

Frame enlargement from Tit for Tat, dir G<strong>as</strong>ton Velle, 1906. Courtesy of Lobster <strong>Film</strong>s.<br />

puce moment<br />

Dir. Kenneth Anger, with Yvonne<br />

Marquis, 1949<br />

Costumes from Kenneth Anger’s<br />

collection<br />

Puce Moment is a fragment filmed<br />

in 1949 and later edited by Anger<br />

himself into a stand-alone piece. It w<strong>as</strong><br />

conceived <strong>as</strong> <strong>the</strong> feature-length film<br />

Puce Women, and w<strong>as</strong> to be Anger’s<br />

tribute to <strong>the</strong> mythological Hollywood<br />

of <strong>the</strong> Jazz Age and <strong>the</strong> perversely<br />

luxurious t<strong>as</strong>tes and lifestyles of<br />

female sirens such <strong>as</strong> Mae Murray,<br />

Barbara La Marr, Marion Davies, and<br />

Gloria Swanson (some of whom are<br />

described in his exposé Hollywood<br />

Babylon). Referring to <strong>the</strong> purplegreen<br />

iridescent color of 1920s flapper<br />

gowns, Anger’s mood sketch evokes<br />

<strong>the</strong> archetypal moment of a film star’s<br />

dressing up. It is a dizzying parade of<br />

vintage gowns: <strong>the</strong>ir beading, sequins<br />

and embroidery shimmer aggressively<br />

in front of <strong>the</strong> camera, taking up entire<br />

film frames.<br />

<strong>the</strong> pearl Fisher<br />

(le pêcheur de perles)<br />

Dir. Ferdinand Zecca, Pathé Frères,<br />

1907, France<br />

A deep-sea diver encounters strange<br />

and marvelous creatures in an<br />

underwater kingdom. The final<br />

apo<strong>the</strong>osis bo<strong>as</strong>ts remarkable sets<br />

Frame enlargement from The Pearl Fisher, dir<br />

Ferdinand Zecca, 1907. Courtesy of Lobster <strong>Film</strong>s.<br />

festooned with strings of pearls that<br />

recall Méliès’s Orientalist décors for<br />

The Palace of Arabian Nights (1905).<br />

normal love<br />

Dir. Jack Smith, 1963<br />

With Diana Baccus, Mario Montez,<br />

Beverly Grant<br />

Costumes by Jack Smith and actors<br />

Print courtesy of Gladstone Gallery,<br />

New York<br />

Jack Smith, Untitled, c.1958-1962 (photograph from <strong>the</strong> set of Normal<br />

Love, dir Jack Smith, 1963). © Estate of Jack Smith. Courtesy of<br />

Gladstone Gallery, New York.<br />

After completing Flaming Creatures,<br />

Smith shot <strong>the</strong> more ambitious Normal<br />

Love in dazzling color, with elaborate<br />

sets (including a Busby Berkeleyesque<br />

multi-tiered cake made by Claes<br />

Oldenburg), and costumes inspired by<br />

horror films and Maria Montez epics.<br />

Smith c<strong>as</strong>t poets, artists, and actors<br />

from <strong>the</strong> New York underground scene,<br />

including Mario Montez <strong>as</strong> <strong>the</strong> Mermaid,<br />

Beverly Grant <strong>as</strong> <strong>the</strong> Cobra Woman, plus<br />

Andy Warhol and a very pregnant Beat<br />

poet Diane di Prima <strong>as</strong> chorus dancers<br />

on Oldenburg’s cake. Smith never<br />

finished editing a definitive version of<br />

<strong>the</strong> film, but what remains wonder<strong>full</strong>y<br />

illustrates his visionary appropriation of<br />

Hollywood sensuality and excess.

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!