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Download the full program as PDF - Fashion Film Festival

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MUSEUM OF THE MOVING IMAGE<br />

<strong>the</strong> Devil is a Woman<br />

Dir. Josef von Sternberg, 1935. 76 mins.<br />

With Marlene Dietrich, Cesar Romero,<br />

Lionel Atwill<br />

Costumes by Travis Banton, wardrobe<br />

by Henry West<br />

We invited Kenneth Anger to tell us<br />

which film we should <strong>program</strong> alongside<br />

his Inauguration of <strong>the</strong> Ple<strong>as</strong>ure Dome<br />

and he suggested “something by Travis<br />

Banton for von Sternberg or DeMille”.<br />

We took note. The Devil is a Woman,<br />

close to Anger’s own vision in Inauguration,<br />

makes m<strong>as</strong>querade its very leitmotif—from<br />

Marlene Dietrich’s inexorably<br />

made-up face to <strong>the</strong> near-grotesque<br />

disguises worn by revellers at Seville’s<br />

carnival during which this film is set.<br />

Dietrich’s uber-sensuous character<br />

Concha Perez enjoys a game of seduction<br />

while unapologetically flaunting<br />

Banton’s veils, outlandish headpieces,<br />

fans and fringes.<br />

sunDAY, April 17<br />

Frame enlargement from The Devil is a Woman, dir.<br />

Josef von Sternberg, 1935.<br />

2:00pm<br />

Dreams of Darkness and color<br />

This <strong>program</strong> explores <strong>the</strong> role of costume<br />

in several silent cinema journeys<br />

into darkness, all of which are executed<br />

in color.<br />

Total running time: c.80 mins.<br />

With an introduction by Eugenia Paulicelli.<br />

Live music by Stephen Horne<br />

<strong>the</strong> red spectre (le spectre rouge)<br />

Dir. Segundo de Chomón, Pathé Frères,<br />

1907, France<br />

Costumes and sets by Segundo de<br />

Chomón<br />

(Stencil-colored)<br />

In a dark cavern a devil-like magician<br />

performs a series of tricks putting to<br />

great use his magnificent cloak.<br />

<strong>the</strong> pillar of Fire (la Danse du feu)<br />

Dir. Georges Méliès, 1899, France<br />

With Jeanne d’Alcy<br />

Costumes and sets by Georges Méliès<br />

(Hand-colored)<br />

B<strong>as</strong>ed on H. Rider Haggard’s novel She,<br />

a demon conjures a woman wearing a<br />

voluminous white dress who performs a<br />

dance à la Loïe Fuller.<br />

The Butterflies (Le Farfalle)<br />

Dir. unknown, 1907, Italy<br />

(Tinted and hand-colored)<br />

Frame enlargement from The Red Spectre, dir.<br />

Segundo de Chomόn, 1907. Courtesy Lobster <strong>Film</strong>s.<br />

Geish<strong>as</strong> dance and play with a butterfly<br />

woman whom <strong>the</strong>y have imprisoned<br />

within a cage. Her lover comes to rescue<br />

her, only to find himself killed by<br />

<strong>the</strong> group. A butterfly revenge ensues.<br />

rapsodia satanica<br />

Dir. Nino Oxilia, 1915, Italy<br />

With Lyda Borelli, Andrea Habay, Ugo<br />

Bazzini<br />

Alba’s gowns by Mariano Fortuny<br />

(Tinted and stencil-colored)<br />

A prime example of <strong>the</strong> diva genre, Rapsodia<br />

Satanica is a m<strong>as</strong>terpiece of silent<br />

Italian cinema. It features Lyda Borelli<br />

<strong>as</strong> Alba d’Oltrevita in a Faustian tale of<br />

a woman’s search for eternal youth and<br />

worldly ple<strong>as</strong>ures. The most persistent<br />

<strong>the</strong>mes punctuating <strong>the</strong> film are Alba’s<br />

narcissism and her manipulation of<br />

a thin, diaphanous veil in scenes of<br />

seduction, reflection and melancholy.<br />

Sensuous, <strong>the</strong> veil may evoke <strong>the</strong> craze<br />

for exotic dances that swept European<br />

and American stage and screen around<br />

<strong>the</strong> turn of <strong>the</strong> century but in Alba’s<br />

hands it is more introspective and<br />

eerie than seductive. It <strong>as</strong>sumes a life<br />

of its own <strong>as</strong> it is moulded and layered<br />

over her face and body, producing an<br />

e<strong>the</strong>real, phant<strong>as</strong>mic effect made even<br />

more striking by <strong>the</strong> use of color. Alba’s<br />

nemesis, <strong>the</strong> omnipresent devil, also<br />

operates his vampire-style cloak to<br />

great effect.<br />

With grateful thanks to <strong>the</strong> Italian Cultural<br />

Institute who have supported this<br />

screening on <strong>the</strong> occ<strong>as</strong>ion of celebrating<br />

<strong>the</strong> 150th Anniversary of <strong>the</strong> unification<br />

of Italy.<br />

Frame enlargement from Rapsodia Satanica, dir. Nino Oxilia, 1915/1917. Courtesy EYE <strong>Film</strong> Institute Ne<strong>the</strong>rlands.

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