Backyard Basic Pruning for Fruit, Flower and Form - Oregon State ...

Backyard Basic Pruning for Fruit, Flower and Form
Philosophy of Pruning Trees: A properly pruned tree looks as natural as possible; that is to say, the tree’s
appearance reflects its fundamental form and character. The pruner must be sensitive to maintaining this
structural integrity, in addition to knowing a bit about tree biology and proper pruning principles!
Pruning Tools
Gloves and Eye protection
Hand Pruners (bypass, not anvil type, up to 1” in diameter)
Long-handled Loppers (up to 1 ½” in diameter)
Hand-saw, 6” to 16” (cuts on the push and pull or pull only)
Disinfectant: bottle of rubbing alcohol or 10:1 diluted bleach
Sharpening stone and oil
Pole pruner, 10-foot (optional)
Orchard Ladder (optional ,3-legged, best for uneven ground)
Chain saw (optional, use for only for removal)
Why Prune
To maintain the health of the tree/shrub
Remove the Four “Ds”: Dead, Damaged, Diseased and Deranged limbs
To increase air flow and light
To improve natural form
To control size
a) timely removal of foliage
b) best to select… “Right Plant, Right Place”
No T.O.P.P.I.N.G.
Basic Guidelines
Avoid Pruning by choosing plants that won’t outgrow their allotted space...
“Right Plant, Right Place”
Don’t prune until you have a reason and idea of the possible results
Wiggle and flag the branch, step back and look before you prune
Step back between cuts to evaluate
Prune in moderation
After pruning, monitor the plant and see how it responds. This is the best way to learn.
When to Prune Trees and Shrubs
Winter (November–March)
a) To encourage fruit production
b) To remove the four “Ds”
(Dead, Damaged, Diseased and Deranged limbs)
c) To encourage fruit production
d) To control height and shape
e) To increase air circulation and sunlight to fruit
Summer (July15 – August 15)
a) To reduce growth next year
b) To remove the four “Ds” (Dead, Damaged, Diseased and Deranged limbs)
c) Disease control
Pruning can be done year-round, as needed for Removing the first three “Ds”
1. Dead
2. Damaged
3. Diseased … any time, the sooner the better.

When you Prune it will have an Effect
Pruning done during the dormant season tends to have an invigorating effect on tree growth.
Pruning done during peak growth times tends to slow growth by removing leaves that
manufacture nourishment.
Pruning during the spring (post-dormancy) and fall (pre-dormancy) is generally the least
desirable time as the plant is most vulnerable during those times.
Basic Guidelines
Berries and Tree fruits are pruned November until bloom
Spring Blooming ornamentals during and immediately after bloom
Summer blooming shrubs start setting flower buds in spring, most are pruned in early spring
Conifers ooze or bleed sap during active growth, prune from fall to mid winter
Anatomy of a Tree Parts of the Branch
Trunk Terminal bud
Leader Leaf bud
Scaffold branch Bud scar
Lateral branch Flower bud
Roots Fruit or Flower spurs
Suckers or Water Sprouts

Types of Pruning Cuts
Thinning Cuts: Branches are removed entirely, leaving no buds to grow. Their energy is
diverted into remaining branches, which grow more vigorously.
Heading Cuts: Several buds left on the cut branch grow, making denser, more compact
foliage on more branches.

Why Prune Fruit trees
increase fruit production
develop strong 45-degree scaffold branches
remove limbs that grow down or straight up
maintain tree size ~10-12’
maintain fruit spurs
Where Does the Fruit Grow?
Plum/prune - 1st year wood -- that grew last year.
Peach/nectarine - 1st year wood -- that grew last year.
Cherry - 1st and 2nd year wood - (Look for fruit spurs.)
Apple/Pear - 2nd year wood.
Filbert/hazelnuts - Mainly 1st year wood.
Walnuts 1st and 2nd year wood.
Types of Tree Forms
Central Leader
Modified Central Leader
Vase or Multiple Leader
Types of Shrub Forms
Cane - Plants that renew themselves by sending up new branches – called canes – from the
base. Pruning out canes at the base of the plant to increase air and sun.
Mounding - The plants look like mounds and are medium-tough plants. Found in mass
planting. They have small leaves and supple branches. Pruning can be done as thinning cuts
to tidy them up or reduce their size. This type of shrub can be sheared, shearing is heading
cuts and that stimulates growth.
Tree form – It is best to let it get big. Not to be pruned heavy-handedly. Good selective
pruning can open up the shrub and make it look less oppressive; you can train branches
around gutters and off the house and to enhance the natural beauty of the shrub.
List of supporting books:
• American Horticultural Society Pruning & Training
by Christopher Brickell (Author), David Joyce (Author)
• Cass Turnbull's Guide to Pruning: What, When, and Where and How to Prune for a More
Beautiful Garden, by Cass Turnbull (Author), Kate Allen (Illustrator)
• Pruning Made Easy: A Gardener's Visual Guide to When and How to Prune Everything, from
Flowers to Trees, Storey's Gardening Skills Illustrated, by Lewis Hill (Author)
• The Gossler Guide to the Best Hardy Shrubs: More than 350 Expert Choices for Your Garden
by Roger Gossler, Eric Gossler, and Marjory Gossler (Authors)
Recommended Publications:
PNW 400 Training and Pruning Your Home Orchard
http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/22166/pnw400.pdf
WSU EB 1619 Pruning Landscape Trees
http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/eb1619/eb1619.pdf
Recommended Websites for Trees:
http://oregonstate.edu/trees/index.html
http://www.arborday.org/trees/rightTreeAndPlace/index.cfm
http://orb.at.ufl.edu/TREES/index.html