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NEPAL REP 09 - Birdquest

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Owlet, watching him shiver all over as he called, and we then explored an area of scrub on the lower<br />

slopes of Phulchowki. The hoped-for Spiny Babbler did not appear, but we did pick up a displaying<br />

Crested Goshawk, several neat little Speckled Piculets, Mountain Bulbul, singing Orange-bellied<br />

Leafbirds, Slaty-blue Flycatchers, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler, Blackbreasted<br />

Sunbird, Ashy Drongo and a superb Scaly-bellied Wren-Babbler for our efforts. As a result it<br />

was later than planned when we entered the botanic gardens at Godaveri, but here the terrain was<br />

gentle and the birds still active, with White-capped Riverchats and Plumbeous Redstarts along the<br />

stream, Blyth's Crowned, Yellow-browed and Yellow-rumped Leaf Warblers in the trees (keeping the<br />

necks strained upwards), together with another Barred Owlet, Grey-headed Woodpecker, Chestnutbellied<br />

Nuthatch and Himalayan Black Bulbul. We also admired Orange-gorgeted Flycatcher, Greybellied<br />

Tesia, Hodgson's and a very smart Blue-fronted Redstart, as well as enjoying our picnic. To<br />

round off the day we returned to the lower slopes of Phulchowki, where it was very quiet, but we did<br />

manage to squeeze in great looks at a pair of wonderful Spotted Forktails before returning to our<br />

hotel.<br />

Day three started well on Phulchowki with a group of Red-billed Blue Magpies moving through the<br />

trees, shrieking to each-other. We headed straight up the hill, and this paid off when a trio of Cutias<br />

were spotted almost as soon as we got out of the bus in the target zone. We had great views of them,<br />

and in the same area enjoyed White-browed Shrike-Babbler, Blue-winged Minla, Grey-winged<br />

Blackbird and several caterwauling Maroon Orioles. Moving higher, we found a Himalayan Redflanked<br />

Bush-Robin (what a mouthful), Hoary Barwing, Chestnut-tailed Minla, three great Whitecollared<br />

Blackbirds and a party of Black-throated Thrushes feeding on some tasty-looking red berries.<br />

A party of Green Shrike-Babblers was a very nice surprise (and we saw a fourth later in the day), but<br />

then things really slowed down and the middle of the day was rather quiet. We persevered, however,<br />

finding Whistler's Warbler, Yellow-browed Tit, some diamond-tailed Large-billed Crows, a smart<br />

male Little Pied Flycatcher, Small Niltava and finally a Pygmy Wren-Babbler (a very nice comparison<br />

with the Scaly-bellied Wren-Babbler seen well earlier in the day). It had been a great session, but at<br />

last it was time to weave our way back to the hotel through the twilight traffic (and ask, who in their<br />

right minds would ride a bicycle in Kathmandu?).<br />

For a change we had a morning at Nagarjung on our final day in the Kathmandu valley. Dozens of<br />

Red-billed Blue Magpies greeted us, as did Grey Treepie, and along the dusty road we spent some<br />

time looking at low scrub, finding Grey-sided and Aberrant Bush-Warblers, Black-chinned Babblers,<br />

Rufous-bellied Niltavas, a vocal Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babbler and more Whistler's Warblers.<br />

Nagarjung is fairly open forest, and by walking quietly through the low shrubs we found several<br />

Small-billed Scaly Thrushes (it must be one of the easiest places to catch up with 'White's Thrush' as<br />

it once was). The trees held Blue-throated Barbets, Hair-crested Drongos and a Lesser Yellownape,<br />

but we could not track down a calling Collared Owlet, which went silent whenever we thought we<br />

had got close to it, much to my chagrin. In the late morning we drove a long way up the dusty road<br />

towards the summit, but apart from a Booted Eagle this was not productive, so after a picnic and<br />

another bash for White's Thrushes, we headed back to the gate (the rear vehicle picking up Whitecrested<br />

Laughingthrush, compensation for the lead vehicle's Black Francolin on the way up). It was<br />

then through the congested streets of the city to emerge back into the 'countryside' along the Bagmati<br />

river for some waterbirds and a change of scene.<br />

We spent some time in the late afternoon exploring a short section of the polluted, rubbish-filled<br />

Bagmati River. Despite the filth, we started well with a flock of Himalayan Greenfinches, and then<br />

found some Grey-headed Lapwings (at least 15), a real bonus bird. Other waders included three<br />

Black-winged Stilts and several Greenshanks, and there was a variety of alba wagtails and a Rosy<br />

Pipit as well. A nearby pool held a variety of ducks, including Ruddy Shelduck, Eurasian Wigeon,<br />

Ferruginous Duck and a vagrant Chinese Spotbill. Also seeking sanctuary were White-breasted<br />

Cormorants and Black-crowned Night Herons, as well as a lone Dabchick. The surrounding fields<br />

held quite a few Olive-backed Pipits and we had a brief look at a Jungle Cat before it slunk off into<br />

the bushes.<br />

2 <strong>Birdquest</strong>: Nepal 20<strong>09</strong>

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