NEPAL REP 09 - Birdquest

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Shikra and a little party of White-rumped Munias. Over lunch we admired Goosanders as they mixed in with Great Cormorants on the river, and as we approached Chitwan we saw two Indian Rollers on the wires as well as a kettle of nine Lesser Adjutants right over the road. Finally we arrived and transferred to a rickety old Land Rover for the short drive to our lodge, ideally situated within the eastern section of the park. Even this short drive was productive, with Lesser Coucal and a flock of Sand Larks. Chitwan is a great place, and we were keen to see some birds, so after a break for coffee we took a short walk from the lodge down to a small lake. This added over 20 species to the list, including some very vocal Indian Black Ibises, Asian Openbill (and Lesser Adjutant and Woollynecked Stork in a nice side-by-side size comparison). Both Orange-breasted and Ashy-headed Green Pigeons showed well, and a Stork-billed Kingfisher posed to perfection. Crested Treeswifts soared overhead, and the flowering Silk-cotton trees held masses of Hair-crested Drongos, as well as Greyheaded Starlings, Hill Myna and, a real bonus, at least three Spot-winged Starlings (a personal favourite of mine). On the way back to the lodge a flock of 40 Oriental Pied Hornbills were spotted in some distant trees, and we found three Brown Crakes. Then, well before dusk, we lured two Brown Hawk-Owls into view at the end of a memorable day. Mornings can be cold in Chitwan, and our first there was no exception. After coffee we drove out to an area of grasslands, a rather tortuous and bumpy journey. We failed to see any floricans (the habitat here is no longer perfect, with many encroaching trees), but we did pick up a male Hen Harrier and some distant White-tailed Stonechats. On the way back for breakfast we added Streak-throated Woodpecker, Ashy Wood-swallow, Black-winged Cuckooshrike and Yellow-throated Sparrow. We followed this with a wander around the camp, which was very birdy. A Jungle Owlet posed for us, as did Green-billed Malkoha, Plum-headed Parakeet, Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker, Small Minivet and Gold-fronted Leafbird. White-rumped Shama had been on view from the breakfast table, while a damp area below the kitchen turned up an air force-blue Tickell’s Thrush. Perusal of the undergrowth yielded Puff-throated Babbler and both Snowy-browed and Pale-chinned Flycatchers. Other notable birds were Pale-billed Flowerpecker and up to 15 Spot-winged Starlings in the Silk-cotton tree. After a good siesta we went out on elephant back, picking up Wild Boar as we prepared to depart. Not my favourite form of transport, the trip was well worthwhile, for we found a Sloth Bear which, oblivious to our approach, suddenly noticed one Elephant, roared and feigned towards us before slinking off into the undergrowth. Eventually we also found an Indian Rhino, and bird interest was provided by Himalayan Rubythroat for one party and Savanna Nightjars for the other. On the second day at the west end of the park we drove out to the Churia Hills. It was a fair distance, and a rather rough ‘road’, but well worth the effort. We started with another pair of Savanna Nightjars, picked up on call and flushed from the dry river bed. Then came a Long-billed Ground- Thrush feeding at the side of the river bed, which happily showed well after it had initially disappeared. The first of several Black-backed Forktails followed while the picnic breakfast was interrupted by Streaked Spiderhunters and a pair of Pin-tailed Green Pigeons and then, while we were trying to see a Grey-throated Babbler, Black-chinned Yuhina came into view. We followed this with a trogon chase, eventually finding a male Red-headed Trogon, and then a mixed flock, with Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush, Green Magpie and White-browed Scimitar-Babbler, but all of these proved elusive. Wending our way back down the valley, we found four Black Storks and a chance meeting with another group put us on to a Collared Owlet, which showed superbly. Finally, we spotted a Wallcreeper on the soft cliffs at the valley side and again, this showed fantastically well. After lunch and a break, we explored the grasslands by the lodge with several ‘controlled’ fires crackling in the distance. In the tree tops we found Common Hawk-Cuckoo and Himalayan Flameback, while the grass itself held a smart Rufous-rumped Grassbird, as well as Chestnut-capped Babbler, Aberrant and Spotted Bush-warblers and Ashy and Yellow-bellied Prinias. On the way back to the lodge we flushed (with much effort) a Ruddy Crake, and then noticed a Rhino 100 metres away – necessitating a slight detour! On our last morning in the west of the park we had a final wander around the area of the lodge. We at last got good looks at Chestnut-capped Babbler, and also saw Grey-capped Prinia very well. Pale- 4 Birdquest: Nepal 2009
footed Bush-Warbler was also new, but this was typically skulking, albeit almost at our feet at times. After breakfast we headed off, and a stop at the Rapti River was very productive, with Temminck's Stint, Kentish Plover and Great Egret. Transferring to our bus we made our way via the back roads to Sauraha. Again, a stop was productive, with Richard's, Blyth's, and Rosy Pipits in the weedy fields and a lovely Black-shouldered Kite. At Sauraha we transferred vehicles again (after crossing the river) and then drove the 40 km or so to Tiger Tops. This was hot and dusty, but there were birds - Whiteeyed Buzzard and Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, and at the lunch stop Darter, Indian Spotted Eagle and a brief look at a Grey-headed Fishing Eagle. We saw another Grey-headed Fishing Eagle, this time a juvenile, later in the journey, as well as Osprey and Little Green Bee-eater. The journey was not without its mammal interest, too. A Sloth Bear showed briefly, and we logged at least five Rhinos. Finally, we arrived at the beautifully situated Tiger Tops Tented Camp, but did not know what to do first - enjoy a cold drink or look at the mixed flock of Greater and Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrushes? Our hosts here had some up-to-date information on floricans, and this persuaded us back on to elephant back in search of this ultra-rare bustard. The Tiger Tops elephants are 'business class' but still, two and a half hours is almost too much as we made a long circuit in search of our quarry and were not back until it was nearly dark. It was a great success, however, as we had a good flight view of a male Bengal Florican as he made a wide circle around us, giving a clicking metallic call. We saw a few other interesting birds too, and also logged 12 rhinos, including mother and calf at close quarters as we returned, and saw two magnificent Gaur. Finally, after dinner, we had a quick look at a co-operative Oriental Scops Owl and listened to the rhinos stomping around in the grassland below and to the chonk-chonk-chonk of the Large-tailed Nightjars. The tented camp has a superb view out over a grassy flood-plain but, as usual, at dawn the next day it was rather misty. We wandered down to the edge of the grass and tried to entice some bushwarblers into view. Large showed briefly, as did Aberrant, and we also had a brief look at a female Himalayan Rubythroat. The babblers did better, with good views of Yellow-eyed, and then a party of Rufous-necked Laughingthrushes - the target bird for this end of Chitwan - came by. Red Turtle Dove and Wryneck were also noted, and then it was time for breakfast. Over the meal the cry of 'there's that black and white bird' alerted us to a fly-past by a male florican - a bird that I have never seen from the camp before - and we had another flight view a littler later in the morning too. We spent the rest of the morning walking through the forest to Tiger Tops lodge, but were delayed at first by the camp laughingthrush flock, which this time contained White-browed Scimitar-Babbler, which showed well, as did both necklaced laughingthrushes. We also spent time looking at a small pool and the adjacent grassland. A Watercock was very welcome, as were male and female Painted Snipe feeding in the open and a brief flight view of a Chestnut Bittern. Best of all, however, were a party of Slender-billed Babblers that hove into view and sat up on the grass calling form time to time. The rest of the walk was pleasant, if progressively hotter, but we did not add much to the list. Finally we arrived at the lodge and were greeted with cold towels and iced tea. A quick look at the rubbish dump before lunch produced a Tickell's Thrush and a large Wild Boar, and after lunch an Oriental Honey-buzzard livened up the siesta. In the late afternoon we checked out some grasslands near the lodge, which produced White-tailed Stonechat, Bengal Bushlark, a skulking Large Bush-Warbler and Striated Babblers. Scuffling in the grass alerted us to a rhino, and it proved to be a mother and calf, and as it was around 100 m away I deemed it prudent to get back into the jeep! On the way back to the camp (this time by jeep rather than on foot) we had great looks at a male Kaleej and finally, back at the lodge, a brief view of a Large-tailed Nightjar and a great fly-past by a Giant Hornbill. On our final morning in Chitwan we again visited the grassland edge and this was again very productive. A Crested Goshawk sat up in full view, and a Black Bittern showed briefly as it flew out of cover. Concentrating on the smaller birds, we had excellent views of Himalayan Rubythroat (including a smart male), as well as Large Bush-Warbler and Smokey Warbler. It was then time to pack up and say a sad farewell to Tiger Tops and its magnificent setting. We drove out of the park, with brief looks at Little Pratincole as we left, and then wended our way through the back roads. There was a ‘strike’ in the area and while we negotiated our way through one road black, we were turned back at the next and had to detour through ‘friendly territory’! We got to the main road with 5 Birdquest: Nepal 2009
Page 1 and 2: LEADER: SIMON HARRAP and RAMESH KAR
Page 3: Leaving Kathmandu the following mor
Page 7 and 8: SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were
Page 9 and 10: Griffon Vulture (Eurasian Griffon V
Page 11 and 12: COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon (Rock Dove)
Page 13 and 14: MEGALAIMIDAE Great Barbet Megalaima
Page 15 and 16: LANIIDAE Long-tailed Shrike Lanius
Page 17 and 18: Grey-throated Babbler Stachyris nig
Page 19 and 20: AEGITHALIDAE Red-headed Tit (Black-
Page 21 and 22: MAMMALS Orange-bellied Himalayan Sq
Page 23 and 24: CLOCKWISE: White-capped River-Chat;
Page 25 and 26: CLOCKWISE: Asian Openbill; Lesser A
Page 27: CLOCKWISE: Brown Hawk-Owl; Collared

NEPAL REP 09 - Birdquest

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