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LIST OF CULTURE MEDIA<br />

Details of some of the more useful maintenance media,<br />

referred to by number in the list of strains, are given<br />

below. Special media and methods for algae are<br />

given by Venkataraman (1969) and Stein (1973);<br />

for parasitic protozoa by Taylor and Baker (1978);<br />

for free living protozoa by Page (1981), and for<br />

various microorganisms in a CRC Handbook by<br />

Rechcigl (1978). The water used should always be<br />

distilled or deionised (unless the contrary is<br />

stated). Sterilization is by autoclaving at 15 lb/in2<br />

(ca 1 bar or 101 kPa) for 15 min unless stated other—<br />

wise.<br />

Mention of a particular supplier does not imply that<br />

other products are necessarily less satisfactory.<br />

Medium M1<br />

This medium is satisfactory for many algae; it quickly<br />

reveals the presence of most contaminants. For agar<br />

cultures with bacteria, a less rich medium is necessary<br />

such as soil extract agar (e + s).<br />

Medium M2 (e + s)<br />

KNO3<br />

K2HPO4<br />

MgSO4.7H20<br />

Agar<br />

Soil extract stock solution<br />

g per 100 ml water<br />

0.02<br />

0.002<br />

0.002<br />

1.0<br />

10% by volume<br />

The soil extract stock solution is made by heating in<br />

a steamer a calcareous garden loam with twice its<br />

volume of supernatant water for 2 hours, or by<br />

autoclaving for 15 min. It is convenient to make up<br />

and sterilize a number of small containers of stock<br />

solution each of a size appropriate to making a batch<br />

of media, as repeated autoclaving is deleterious.<br />

5.1<br />

SOIL AND WATER MEDIA<br />

These simple media have great advantages for many<br />

purposes, so long as axenic culture is not required,<br />

and may produce excellent growth of almost any<br />

organism apart from the more exacting planktonic<br />

and parasitic forms.<br />

Medium M3 Basic biphasic medium<br />

Put a layer about 1 cm deep of good calcareous<br />

garden loam into a test tube or jar. (The use of<br />

mud from rivers or ponds is seldom satisfactory.)<br />

Carefully add water to a depth of 7 to 10 cm, plug<br />

or cover, and steam for one hour (longer for larger<br />

vessels) on each of 2 consecutive days; further<br />

sterilization is not needed. Allow to stand for a<br />

further day before inoculating, when the pH should<br />

be between 7 and 8.<br />

Many variations of this basic medium are possible.<br />

The garden soil can be replaced by calcareous clay<br />

(Medium M3i). The addition of a little (about 3% of<br />

the volume of the soil) calcium carbonate or<br />

ammonium magnesium phosphate beneath the soil is<br />

recommended, the former (Medium M3ii) for many<br />

eutrophic Chlorophyceae, the latter (Medium M3iii) for<br />

many green euglenids. Sphagnum peat may be added<br />

or may replace the soil when growing forms from<br />

acid habitats (Medium M3iv). The addition of a little<br />

starch below the soil stimulates growth of many<br />

saprophytes like Polytoma and Astasia (Medium M3v).<br />

A grain of pearl barley, rice or wheat produces a<br />

bacterial flora forming suitable food for many<br />

ciliates (Medium M3vi).<br />

When selecting soils, it is advisable to take a fair—sized<br />

sample, about one cubic foot or 30 litres, pass this<br />

through a sieve of about 1 cm mesh and then make<br />

up media and test them with appropriate organisms.<br />

If the sample is satisfactory, sufficient stock is then<br />

available for many batches of medium.

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