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CLASSIC SIX METRE NEWSLETTER

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Reinforcing a wooden hull to resist the stresses of modern sails<br />

Reinforcing a wooden 6mR hull, by Theo Rye<br />

Wooden 6 metre hulls, especially those with long overhangs, present an interesting set of<br />

design issues. One of the most common is how to reinforce the hull to resist the higher loads<br />

of a modern rig.<br />

As long as we were happy to stick to the old way of things, with spruce masts and “soft” sails,<br />

everything was fine. The problems started with alloy masts; then rod rigging, and laminate<br />

sails; in order to get these things to work well, the rigging had to be set up tighter and tighter.<br />

It worked, but many of the older carvel hulls fitted with modern rigs were soon showing signs<br />

of hard usage; splines or seams cracking and opening, garboards leaking, decks hogging.<br />

The first thing to understand is that, generally, traditional yachts are pretty good at resisting<br />

the loads they were designed for: they keep the seawater out (from below, at any rate), and<br />

rarely break. Occasionally very old yachts do “sag” at the ends a bit; but generally that’s<br />

after a long hard life. Put a modern rig in though, and wind it up a bit, and things soon<br />

change.<br />

Broadly speaking you can break the sources of these loads down in ascending order of<br />

concern;<br />

Standing backstay: rarely a major issue despite being right at the aft end of the overhang, as<br />

they are on the centreline, and not normally highly tensioned.<br />

Headsail sheets: usually only a cause of local problems as the loads are generally pretty flat<br />

to the deck.<br />

Halyards: Despite being so close to the critically loaded area of the mast, halyard loads are<br />

normally pretty easy to deal with by sensible local design.<br />

Mainsheet: Often a big load, but quite close to the centreline and again more often a source<br />

of local concerns (track pulling out) as it is usually far enough into the main body of the boat<br />

not to cause global bending issues.<br />

Headstay: This has to be taut for effective windward work, and the result is inevitably high<br />

loads on the centreline, often out at the end of a fine overhanging bow. On many older yachts<br />

the situation is even worse as the forestay is pushed forward from the original position in<br />

order to increase the J measurement.<br />

Shrouds: Shroud loadings are now typically high even at rest. They are pulling up and<br />

inboard, causing local deck compression transversely at the mast, and sometimes “hogging”<br />

the hull longitudinally as well.<br />

Running backstays: Usually the worst of the lot. In order to get good headstay tension,<br />

runners are placed as far aft as possible, and set up very tight; and the loads are cyclical and<br />

variable. Being offset from the centreline, they introduce a very nasty torsional (twisting)<br />

load in the hull which traditionally built carvel hulls are not good at resisting.<br />

Ultimately all these loads are the result of trying to keep the mast in the boat and reasonably<br />

straight. The mast itself is then pushing downwards on the step, generating big compressive<br />

loads.<br />

So how to work through that lot?<br />

- 11-

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