22_CAN122807lettersi.. - California Apparel News
22_CAN122807lettersi.. - California Apparel News
22_CAN122807lettersi.. - California Apparel News
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Couture<br />
Continued from page 1<br />
of Art, the intimate setting was<br />
well-recieved, and Klein continued<br />
to produce shows on his<br />
own in his atelier on Beverly<br />
Boulevard.<br />
Inspired by the 1939 Joan<br />
Crawford high-society film “The<br />
Women” and the in-store shows<br />
held in Parisian couture houses,<br />
Klein’s fashion shows bring a<br />
welcome dose of glamour and<br />
decorum, Klein said. “This way,<br />
we have a whole afternoon. We<br />
can talk about the clothes; they<br />
can see them on a body and see<br />
Designer Lloyd Klein<br />
the construction. [Traditional] fashion shows are more<br />
for press and buyers. These shows allow me to focus on<br />
my customers and listen to what they like. As a couture<br />
designer, I like to work closely with my customers,” he<br />
said. And, since his designs are not determined by the<br />
season but rather by the needs of his customers, the<br />
monthly shows make more sense for him than seasonal<br />
catwalk extravaganzas.<br />
Populating the shows was a no-brainer, Klein said.<br />
“For the first shows, we invited our regular clients. Then,<br />
they began to bring their friends and daughters. It makes for a very<br />
nice atmosphere,” he said. Now, the shows’ popularity has grown so<br />
much that the designer has added a second show to accommodate<br />
the demand. “We have a very small afternoon show of about a dozen<br />
women. Then, in the evening, we have a larger show of about 50 or<br />
60 women. It is more casual [than the afternoon show], but it is a lot<br />
of fun,” he said.<br />
The proof of the show’s allure is in Klein’s rising sales figures.<br />
“We have been very successful. Many of our customers buy right<br />
after the show. Some return for a private fitting of their own. It is a<br />
very nice way to shop. My clients are very high-profile ladies and<br />
couture lovers. They appreciate the added attention and discretion,”<br />
he said. Several of his clients left cheat sheets with the designer so<br />
he could help their husbands shop for them. “The husband of one<br />
of my clients was just in. He is [a French diplomat], and his wife<br />
sent him here to buy her a Christmas present,” he laughed. “She<br />
will be very pleased.”<br />
Still, couture doesn’t dominate Klein’s in-store catwalk. A new<br />
knit collection, which he debuted during his December shows, has<br />
been very well received. “Women can buy it right after the show—<br />
instant gratification!” Klein said, adding that the new ready-to-wear<br />
knit collection is helping to drive sales and expand his client base.<br />
“It is more affordable and very versatile. Very young and hip,” he<br />
Los Angeles–based couture designer<br />
Bradley Bayou has shown on the runway<br />
at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week<br />
at Smashbox Studios, but the former<br />
Halston designer recently eschewed<br />
the large-scale runway show format in<br />
favor of a more-intimate setting.<br />
In early December, Bayou hosted a<br />
party and private showing of his Spring<br />
2008 couture collection at his home in the<br />
Hollywood Hills area of Los Angeles.<br />
The decision to show outside the<br />
confines of a formal fashion week made<br />
sense with his business model, Bayou<br />
said.<br />
“My core business is celebrities and<br />
special clients,” he said. “I don’t sell to<br />
stores.”<br />
In addition to custom designs for an elite clientele, Bradley<br />
also produces a more-mainstream collection for QVC. The designer<br />
also recently published a book, “The Science of Sexy,”<br />
which is a guide to dressing for a variety of body types.<br />
“My business has taken off,” he said. “I’m adding new lines,<br />
[including] interiors. It’s becoming a world brand.”<br />
Bayou keeps the two sides of his business separate, but the designer’s<br />
creativity is the common thread that runs through both.<br />
“The couture is a design lab. It’s where I get my ideas,” he said.<br />
The show was scheduled to coincide with the Hollywood<br />
awards season, which kicks off in January with the Golden<br />
Globes and ends in February with the Academy Awards.<br />
“What better time to show actresses who might be nominated?”<br />
Bradley said, adding that the intimate setting and very limited<br />
guest list was designed with his clientele in mind.<br />
“Couture is not good for runway because you miss all the details,”<br />
he said.<br />
The designer showed a small collection of gowns and cocktail separates.<br />
Models snaked through the designer’s living room and out<br />
6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS DECEMBER 28, 2007–JANUARY 3, 2008<br />
NEW KNITS: Klein<br />
debuted a new collection<br />
of knitwear in December.<br />
TIMELESS ELEGANCE: Klein said his clients dress for blacktie<br />
events and red-carpet affairs–not for the season.<br />
said. Sexy and body-conscious, the knits have become a hit with<br />
the younger crowd. “It is the sort of thing young women can wear<br />
to parties or clubs,” Klein said. Retail prices for the knits line fall<br />
well below the price of Klein’s couture gowns. Sweater dresses,<br />
miniskirts, jackets and tops retail for $200 to upwards of $600.<br />
Eveningwear designer Kevan Hall, who is a regular during<br />
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios in Culver<br />
City, Calif., will produce similar events when his new couture<br />
studio is completed next year. The new studio is located<br />
on Beverly Boulevard in Los Angeles—down the street from his<br />
current location. “It is a targeted focus, very different from the<br />
Fashion Week shows. They allow me to cater to my clients, the<br />
ones buying my gowns,” he said. For his couture shows, Hall<br />
said he will invite select clients for luncheons or tea. Beyond<br />
building a personal rapport and inspiring women to buy his creations,<br />
these gatherings of his most influential clients will give<br />
him insight into their needs and tastes. “It gives women an opportunity<br />
to work closely with the designer, and they love that.<br />
And, as a designer, I am able to focus and listen and see what<br />
they are responding to,” Hall said.<br />
Currently in the process of building his studio, Hall is working<br />
with his designers to create a space that can accommodate the intimate<br />
gatherings. “It is going to be beautiful.” ■<br />
Bayou Hosts Private Show<br />
to a patio that overlooked the twinkling lights of Los Angeles.<br />
Guests perched on couches and around Bayou’s dining room table<br />
admired the details: the row of feathered trim running down<br />
the spine of a black wool crepe dress, the obi-like corset on a<br />
hand-pleated gown and the origami-like treatment on the collar<br />
of a white suit.<br />
The look was luxe from beginning to end, but the drama escalated<br />
to the finale, which featured sweeping gowns named in honor<br />
of Bayou’s Texas roots. The “Gulf Hurricane” featured swirling<br />
layers of blue and aubergine satin. “Clear Blue Sky” trimmed<br />
aquamarine Duchesse satin with silver. And “Texas Twister” featured<br />
hand-pleated layers of yellow taffeta and tulle.<br />
In February, Bayou will show the collection in a private home<br />
in Dallas for a group of women who call themselves “The Fashionistas.”<br />
“I love showing that way,” he said<br />
The designer said he hopes to continue to show in private settings,<br />
based on the success of the showing in his home. “It’s a great<br />
sign when a designer has fun at his own party!”—Alison A. Nieder<br />
VOLKER CORELL<br />
PHIL CUENCO AND JIMMY FIKES<br />
Surf Report<br />
ASR Goes Digital<br />
By Erin Barajas<br />
MANUFACTURING EDITOR<br />
Come January, the Action Sports Retailer<br />
Trade Expo in San Diego will take<br />
on a distinctively high-tech flair. As part of<br />
its move toward a more eco-friendly and<br />
user-friendly platform, ASR’s directory, the<br />
ASR LineUp, will be offered in an all-digital<br />
format. Expanded Show Preview and ASR<br />
Show Daily publications will be available on<br />
the show floor.<br />
“The relevance and speed makes the<br />
new digital ASR LineUp a win-win for both<br />
buyers and manufacturers,” said Andy<br />
Tompkins, ASR’s show director. “We understand<br />
that as ASR grows, it’s becoming<br />
more challenging for attendees to follow all<br />
the events and news on the floor relevant to<br />
their businesses. These three products are<br />
being designed explicitly to help buyers,<br />
media and exhibitors make the most out of<br />
a trip to ASR.”<br />
A digital ASR LineUp makes updates<br />
easier, cuts down on paper waste and creates<br />
a tool attendees can continue to use<br />
after the show is over, Tompkins said. The<br />
ASR LineUp will be accessible to all of the<br />
industry at the show’s Web site (www.<br />
asrbiz.com) and at entry points throughout<br />
the industry starting this month.<br />
An expanded Show Preview will include a<br />
schedule of events, seminars and a detailed<br />
floor plan for the show’s three-day run of<br />
Jan. 24–26. The new ASR Show Daily magazine<br />
will include breaking news, brands<br />
to watch, events and trends for the coming<br />
season. Each day, the ASR Daily will<br />
be available in hotel lobbies and throughout<br />
the San Diego Convention Center.<br />
Quiksilver Top Hair-Raiser for Charity<br />
One month of prickly faces added up<br />
to more than $65,000 raised for charity by<br />
180 Quiksilver employees. In November,<br />
Quiksilver Chief Bob McKnight, sponsored<br />
surfer Kelly Slater, and employees and<br />
executives from the company’s American,<br />
Australian and French offices participated<br />
in “Movember,” a month-long fund-raising<br />
and awareness event for prostate-cancer<br />
research, in which participants grew mustaches<br />
during the month. Quiksilver’s charitable<br />
arm, Quiksilver Foundation, was<br />
the largest participating and top-earning<br />
team. The Foundation matched up to $100<br />
of each team member’s earnings.<br />
To commemorate the end of Movember,<br />
McKnight hosted a wrap party at Quiksilver’s<br />
Huntington Beach, Calif.–based offices<br />
complete with awards for “Best Mo.”<br />
Reef’s Green Effort Gets New Chief<br />
Reef’s eco-focused Reef Redemption<br />
division has a new chief. The company<br />
promoted Mike Gass to the newly created<br />
position of director of Reef Redemption.<br />
Gass will direct the brand’s environmental<br />
initiatives; the Reef Redemption<br />
eco-friendly product line; and the Reef<br />
Redemption Fund, the brand’s charitable<br />
division.<br />
“We have an amazing team of individuals<br />
committed to affecting real change in<br />
how we make product, conduct our business<br />
and give back,” Gass said in a statement.<br />
“It is great to be working on this<br />
project at a time when there seems to be<br />
a real shift in attitude, not only in our industry<br />
but in the overall business world,<br />
as well.”<br />
Before being named director of Reef<br />
Redemption, Gass was a senior footwear<br />
product developer and an associate product<br />
line manager for men’s footwear at<br />
the company. He was part of the team<br />
that created the program two years ago.<br />
Gass will be responsible for researching<br />
and sourcing eco-friendly materials to expand<br />
the Reef Redemption product array<br />
in 2008. ■