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22_CAN122807lettersi.. - California Apparel News

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Couture<br />

Continued from page 1<br />

of Art, the intimate setting was<br />

well-recieved, and Klein continued<br />

to produce shows on his<br />

own in his atelier on Beverly<br />

Boulevard.<br />

Inspired by the 1939 Joan<br />

Crawford high-society film “The<br />

Women” and the in-store shows<br />

held in Parisian couture houses,<br />

Klein’s fashion shows bring a<br />

welcome dose of glamour and<br />

decorum, Klein said. “This way,<br />

we have a whole afternoon. We<br />

can talk about the clothes; they<br />

can see them on a body and see<br />

Designer Lloyd Klein<br />

the construction. [Traditional] fashion shows are more<br />

for press and buyers. These shows allow me to focus on<br />

my customers and listen to what they like. As a couture<br />

designer, I like to work closely with my customers,” he<br />

said. And, since his designs are not determined by the<br />

season but rather by the needs of his customers, the<br />

monthly shows make more sense for him than seasonal<br />

catwalk extravaganzas.<br />

Populating the shows was a no-brainer, Klein said.<br />

“For the first shows, we invited our regular clients. Then,<br />

they began to bring their friends and daughters. It makes for a very<br />

nice atmosphere,” he said. Now, the shows’ popularity has grown so<br />

much that the designer has added a second show to accommodate<br />

the demand. “We have a very small afternoon show of about a dozen<br />

women. Then, in the evening, we have a larger show of about 50 or<br />

60 women. It is more casual [than the afternoon show], but it is a lot<br />

of fun,” he said.<br />

The proof of the show’s allure is in Klein’s rising sales figures.<br />

“We have been very successful. Many of our customers buy right<br />

after the show. Some return for a private fitting of their own. It is a<br />

very nice way to shop. My clients are very high-profile ladies and<br />

couture lovers. They appreciate the added attention and discretion,”<br />

he said. Several of his clients left cheat sheets with the designer so<br />

he could help their husbands shop for them. “The husband of one<br />

of my clients was just in. He is [a French diplomat], and his wife<br />

sent him here to buy her a Christmas present,” he laughed. “She<br />

will be very pleased.”<br />

Still, couture doesn’t dominate Klein’s in-store catwalk. A new<br />

knit collection, which he debuted during his December shows, has<br />

been very well received. “Women can buy it right after the show—<br />

instant gratification!” Klein said, adding that the new ready-to-wear<br />

knit collection is helping to drive sales and expand his client base.<br />

“It is more affordable and very versatile. Very young and hip,” he<br />

Los Angeles–based couture designer<br />

Bradley Bayou has shown on the runway<br />

at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week<br />

at Smashbox Studios, but the former<br />

Halston designer recently eschewed<br />

the large-scale runway show format in<br />

favor of a more-intimate setting.<br />

In early December, Bayou hosted a<br />

party and private showing of his Spring<br />

2008 couture collection at his home in the<br />

Hollywood Hills area of Los Angeles.<br />

The decision to show outside the<br />

confines of a formal fashion week made<br />

sense with his business model, Bayou<br />

said.<br />

“My core business is celebrities and<br />

special clients,” he said. “I don’t sell to<br />

stores.”<br />

In addition to custom designs for an elite clientele, Bradley<br />

also produces a more-mainstream collection for QVC. The designer<br />

also recently published a book, “The Science of Sexy,”<br />

which is a guide to dressing for a variety of body types.<br />

“My business has taken off,” he said. “I’m adding new lines,<br />

[including] interiors. It’s becoming a world brand.”<br />

Bayou keeps the two sides of his business separate, but the designer’s<br />

creativity is the common thread that runs through both.<br />

“The couture is a design lab. It’s where I get my ideas,” he said.<br />

The show was scheduled to coincide with the Hollywood<br />

awards season, which kicks off in January with the Golden<br />

Globes and ends in February with the Academy Awards.<br />

“What better time to show actresses who might be nominated?”<br />

Bradley said, adding that the intimate setting and very limited<br />

guest list was designed with his clientele in mind.<br />

“Couture is not good for runway because you miss all the details,”<br />

he said.<br />

The designer showed a small collection of gowns and cocktail separates.<br />

Models snaked through the designer’s living room and out<br />

6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS DECEMBER 28, 2007–JANUARY 3, 2008<br />

NEW KNITS: Klein<br />

debuted a new collection<br />

of knitwear in December.<br />

TIMELESS ELEGANCE: Klein said his clients dress for blacktie<br />

events and red-carpet affairs–not for the season.<br />

said. Sexy and body-conscious, the knits have become a hit with<br />

the younger crowd. “It is the sort of thing young women can wear<br />

to parties or clubs,” Klein said. Retail prices for the knits line fall<br />

well below the price of Klein’s couture gowns. Sweater dresses,<br />

miniskirts, jackets and tops retail for $200 to upwards of $600.<br />

Eveningwear designer Kevan Hall, who is a regular during<br />

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios in Culver<br />

City, Calif., will produce similar events when his new couture<br />

studio is completed next year. The new studio is located<br />

on Beverly Boulevard in Los Angeles—down the street from his<br />

current location. “It is a targeted focus, very different from the<br />

Fashion Week shows. They allow me to cater to my clients, the<br />

ones buying my gowns,” he said. For his couture shows, Hall<br />

said he will invite select clients for luncheons or tea. Beyond<br />

building a personal rapport and inspiring women to buy his creations,<br />

these gatherings of his most influential clients will give<br />

him insight into their needs and tastes. “It gives women an opportunity<br />

to work closely with the designer, and they love that.<br />

And, as a designer, I am able to focus and listen and see what<br />

they are responding to,” Hall said.<br />

Currently in the process of building his studio, Hall is working<br />

with his designers to create a space that can accommodate the intimate<br />

gatherings. “It is going to be beautiful.” ■<br />

Bayou Hosts Private Show<br />

to a patio that overlooked the twinkling lights of Los Angeles.<br />

Guests perched on couches and around Bayou’s dining room table<br />

admired the details: the row of feathered trim running down<br />

the spine of a black wool crepe dress, the obi-like corset on a<br />

hand-pleated gown and the origami-like treatment on the collar<br />

of a white suit.<br />

The look was luxe from beginning to end, but the drama escalated<br />

to the finale, which featured sweeping gowns named in honor<br />

of Bayou’s Texas roots. The “Gulf Hurricane” featured swirling<br />

layers of blue and aubergine satin. “Clear Blue Sky” trimmed<br />

aquamarine Duchesse satin with silver. And “Texas Twister” featured<br />

hand-pleated layers of yellow taffeta and tulle.<br />

In February, Bayou will show the collection in a private home<br />

in Dallas for a group of women who call themselves “The Fashionistas.”<br />

“I love showing that way,” he said<br />

The designer said he hopes to continue to show in private settings,<br />

based on the success of the showing in his home. “It’s a great<br />

sign when a designer has fun at his own party!”—Alison A. Nieder<br />

VOLKER CORELL<br />

PHIL CUENCO AND JIMMY FIKES<br />

Surf Report<br />

ASR Goes Digital<br />

By Erin Barajas<br />

MANUFACTURING EDITOR<br />

Come January, the Action Sports Retailer<br />

Trade Expo in San Diego will take<br />

on a distinctively high-tech flair. As part of<br />

its move toward a more eco-friendly and<br />

user-friendly platform, ASR’s directory, the<br />

ASR LineUp, will be offered in an all-digital<br />

format. Expanded Show Preview and ASR<br />

Show Daily publications will be available on<br />

the show floor.<br />

“The relevance and speed makes the<br />

new digital ASR LineUp a win-win for both<br />

buyers and manufacturers,” said Andy<br />

Tompkins, ASR’s show director. “We understand<br />

that as ASR grows, it’s becoming<br />

more challenging for attendees to follow all<br />

the events and news on the floor relevant to<br />

their businesses. These three products are<br />

being designed explicitly to help buyers,<br />

media and exhibitors make the most out of<br />

a trip to ASR.”<br />

A digital ASR LineUp makes updates<br />

easier, cuts down on paper waste and creates<br />

a tool attendees can continue to use<br />

after the show is over, Tompkins said. The<br />

ASR LineUp will be accessible to all of the<br />

industry at the show’s Web site (www.<br />

asrbiz.com) and at entry points throughout<br />

the industry starting this month.<br />

An expanded Show Preview will include a<br />

schedule of events, seminars and a detailed<br />

floor plan for the show’s three-day run of<br />

Jan. 24–26. The new ASR Show Daily magazine<br />

will include breaking news, brands<br />

to watch, events and trends for the coming<br />

season. Each day, the ASR Daily will<br />

be available in hotel lobbies and throughout<br />

the San Diego Convention Center.<br />

Quiksilver Top Hair-Raiser for Charity<br />

One month of prickly faces added up<br />

to more than $65,000 raised for charity by<br />

180 Quiksilver employees. In November,<br />

Quiksilver Chief Bob McKnight, sponsored<br />

surfer Kelly Slater, and employees and<br />

executives from the company’s American,<br />

Australian and French offices participated<br />

in “Movember,” a month-long fund-raising<br />

and awareness event for prostate-cancer<br />

research, in which participants grew mustaches<br />

during the month. Quiksilver’s charitable<br />

arm, Quiksilver Foundation, was<br />

the largest participating and top-earning<br />

team. The Foundation matched up to $100<br />

of each team member’s earnings.<br />

To commemorate the end of Movember,<br />

McKnight hosted a wrap party at Quiksilver’s<br />

Huntington Beach, Calif.–based offices<br />

complete with awards for “Best Mo.”<br />

Reef’s Green Effort Gets New Chief<br />

Reef’s eco-focused Reef Redemption<br />

division has a new chief. The company<br />

promoted Mike Gass to the newly created<br />

position of director of Reef Redemption.<br />

Gass will direct the brand’s environmental<br />

initiatives; the Reef Redemption<br />

eco-friendly product line; and the Reef<br />

Redemption Fund, the brand’s charitable<br />

division.<br />

“We have an amazing team of individuals<br />

committed to affecting real change in<br />

how we make product, conduct our business<br />

and give back,” Gass said in a statement.<br />

“It is great to be working on this<br />

project at a time when there seems to be<br />

a real shift in attitude, not only in our industry<br />

but in the overall business world,<br />

as well.”<br />

Before being named director of Reef<br />

Redemption, Gass was a senior footwear<br />

product developer and an associate product<br />

line manager for men’s footwear at<br />

the company. He was part of the team<br />

that created the program two years ago.<br />

Gass will be responsible for researching<br />

and sourcing eco-friendly materials to expand<br />

the Reef Redemption product array<br />

in 2008. ■

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