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DESIGNER ROUNDUP<br />
SHAHPOUR JAHAN<br />
Royal engagements<br />
Pleasing princesses is jeweler Shahpour Jahan’s specialty<br />
Not long ago, Shahpour Jahan, a jeweler based in<br />
Geneva, took an order from a young Saudi princess<br />
who wanted a necklace “she could wear every day.”<br />
A diamond-laden jewel anchored by a 9.5-carat fancy pink<br />
pear-shaped stone is what he created for her.<br />
With clientele drawn from the royal families of the Persian<br />
Gulf, the Jahan family business, a seventh-generation affair<br />
that dates back to Tehran in the 1800s, has a different relationship<br />
with its customers than do most jewelers.<br />
“A person has a doctor, a lawyer, and we consider ourselves<br />
an advisor,” Shahpour, the <strong>com</strong>pany’s creative director, says.<br />
“We give them a service. We take their old jewelry that has<br />
no value, and we update it.”<br />
When there is a major wedding, it’s not just the bride who<br />
is expected to shine. Mothers and grandmothers are also<br />
draped in jewels and will often bring their old pieces into<br />
one of the <strong>com</strong>pany’s three boutiques in Geneva, Riyadh or<br />
Jeddah to get a fresh re-working. A Jahan design album<br />
with a collection of dull photos documenting these quintessentially<br />
1980s jewels (so passé looking they might as well<br />
be in neon) is a testament to this. Shahpour then re-imagines<br />
the pieces, sometimes as stylish scarf necklaces or as<br />
long cascades of stones.<br />
The emphasis, it’s clear, is on the latter. “The real value to<br />
us as jewelers is in the stones,” Shahpour says. “Like land,<br />
antiques, paintings, the point is you have jewelry that will look<br />
good years from now. It’s not supposed to be like fashion.”<br />
From a floral collar of sapphire and diamond roses to the<br />
suite of almond-sized Colombian emeralds about to be set<br />
into a diamond and white gold parure, the classic jewels<br />
46 l Basel 2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler<br />
that are Jahan’s bread and butter begin at 200,000 Swiss<br />
francs (about $175,000 at current exchange rates) and top<br />
out around 2 million Swiss francs.<br />
Jahan’s singular <strong>com</strong>mitment to providing a traditional,<br />
albeit modernized, selection of jewels to customers who<br />
have patronized the store for decades has placed it in a<br />
good position to ride out the current economic downturn.<br />
Based in Geneva since 1980, when Shahpour’s father began<br />
using Swiss workshops to manufacture the jewelry he sold<br />
in Iran, the <strong>com</strong>pany has a reputation for creating sumptuous<br />
parures of the highest quality.<br />
“Of course you feel it,” Shahpour says of the credit crunch.<br />
“But high-level pieces like that always keep their value. If<br />
people are getting married, we are good.”<br />
In order to ac<strong>com</strong>modate the gift-buying proliclivities of<br />
clients who hail from the Gulf region, the <strong>com</strong>pany also<br />
stocks a reasonably priced selection of glam watches and<br />
perfumes, all on display in the Geneva boutique.<br />
Situated in a prime location on the city’s famed Rue du<br />
Rhône, the store opened in 1995 and was expanded and<br />
renovated two years ago into a stylish black-and-white<br />
showroom of 200 square meters. Neighbors include practically<br />
every major luxury name in the watch and jewelry<br />
business, but that doesn’t faze Shahpour.<br />
“We like that we have <strong>com</strong>petitors,” he says. “When you<br />
go into a garden, you don’t just want to see roses.” ■<br />
Bridal boom Shahpour Jahan, the seventh generation of the Jahan<br />
family business, has what many would consider the perfect plan to ride<br />
out this year’s economic turbulence: If the royal familes of the Persian Gulf<br />
who make up his clientele continue to get married, “we are good,” he says.