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on higher-ticket items that required
the same amount of effort to sell as
lower priced goods. He also noted
that his global marketing strategy
hinged on finding “pockets of wealth”
rather than conquering entirely
new markets — a reflection of how
thoroughly globalized our world has
become: affluent consumers are invariably
jet-setters, meaning their wealth
is as mobile as their high-tech phones.
“You cannot target a country today,”
Levy said. “You have to focus on a group
of people. For example, we don’t sell in
Belgium, but we sold to a group of Belgians.
We have a couple of wealthy people in
Kuwait and Dubai. It’s about targeting the
right customer.”
At the First fair, however, it was clear the
Italians were struggling to define, or even
recognize, who that might be.
“We’re still trying to understand what to do,”
said a woman at the Andreoli booth. “I think
everybody’s in crisis. We haven’t seen any
Americans. The first day was noticeably quiet,
and it’s supposed to be the strongest.”
Export statistics tell an equally disheartening
story. According to figures released by Italy’s
National Statistics Institute, the value of
jewelry and gold exports for the first three
quarters of 2008 fell by 5.54 percent
compared to the same period in 2007. “The
data is linked to the strongly negative
performance of the month of August
(-71%), but partially balanced by
the good performance registered
in the month of September,”
according to the Institute’s statement.
One of the report’s bright spots
affirmed that the United Arab
Emirates is now Italy’s chief export market,
with a 16.4 percent share representing a
14.56 percent increase from 2007 to 2008
— numbers that squared
perfectly with sentiment on the
show floor.
“Abu Dhabi,” Picchiotti said,
referring to the capital of the UAE, “seems
to be the next hot place.” ■
New Italian style
While black was ubiquitous
in Vicenza this year, the
selection wasn’t as somber
as you might think.
First things first Clockwise from top: Roberta
Porrati’s Ibiza ring with black diamonds and pearls;
Marco Bicego’s resplendent Jaipur bib necklace;
Palmiero’s graceful green Feather ring; Paolo
Piovan’s seductive snake necklace; Picchiotti’s
white diamonds and buff-top baguette sapphires
feather brooch; and Picchiotti’s classic emerald
earrings reflect the diversity of designs found at
the First fair in Vicenza. The big question? Should
Italian jewelers focus on fashion jewelry, Italy’s
traditional strong suit, or timeless designs that
transcend fashion to ensure their success during
what promises to be a challenging year?
COUTURE International Jeweler l Basel 2009 l 49