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MARKETPLACE
VICENZA
Brave new world
At the First fair in Vicenza, the Italians were split on whether the secret
to their long-term success lies in promoting classic jewelry or fashion
Veterans of the international trade fair circuit know
there are two kinds of exhibitors at the First show,
held every January, in Vicenza: Those who produce
eminently chic, if fleeting, fashion jewelry and those for
whom “made in Italy” is a battle cry for pieces that stand the
test of time.
As business philosophies, they couldn’t be more different,
yet for the 1,700 companies that showcased their newest
merchandise at the goldsmith fair in mid-January, these two
approaches represent flip sides of the same Italian coin.
The first approach is, arguably, the one that defines Italian
merchandise in the greater context of the global jewelry
scene, and the First fair is, naturally, where the trendiest of
such trendy merchandise makes its debut. This year, the
pieces most in vogue included those featuring black and
white gemstones in matte and polished forms, ornate bib
necklaces best suited to women with statuesque features
(not to mention long necks), variations on the traditional
diamond tennis bracelet using a mix of semiprecious
stones and varying shapes, and a heavy dose of jewels
evoking feathers, animals and leaves.
“Our industry is getting closer to the models and rhythms
of fashion and is observing that trends of fashion and style
merge with trends in our own sector,” Domenico Girardi, the
48 l Basel 2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler
fair’s new general director, said at a press conference. “It
will be necessary to innovate more quickly, to speed up, and
the business models will be different.”
Girardi’s fellow organizers are, it seems, in full agreement.
Witness the show’s new Glam Room, unveiled at the Choice
event in September and enhanced for the 2009 gathering.
The pavilion of 26 exhibitors is dedicated to jewels that
combine precious materials with alternative elements, such
as wood, glass, ceramic, ebony, Perspex and steel.
By 2010, noted Girardi, the Glam Room “will become an
independent pavilion where we celebrate the conjugation
between fashion and jewelry.”
Yet the notion of jewelry as accessory is at odds with the
way many of Vicenza’s finest exhibitors see their work.
In discussing his company’s plans for Baselworld, for
example, Umberto Picchiotti, of the Valenza-based manufacturer,
said: “We will concentrate on more valuable pieces
and won’t do as much fashion or design collections. We
never did.”
Likewise, Isaac Levy, founder of Yvel, the Israeli pearl
jewelry manufacturer, said he would focus his merchandise
Glam slam The entrance to the Vicenza fair’s new Glam Room, which
General Director Domenico Girardi describes as “an independent pavilion
where we celebrate the conjugation between fashion and jewelry.”
Photo by LaPresse provided by Vicenza Fiera