june-2011

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044 The largest freshwater fi shery in the world, irrigating thousands of hectares of agricultural land and second only to the Amazon in the richness of its biodiversity, the Mekong quite simply drives life in Cambodia. The recently extended Mekong Discovery Trail off ers visitors a rare glimpse into the heart of this massive Asian river and allows them to explore its islands, riverbanks and local communities by boat, bike and even horse and cart. The southern gateway to the trail can be found at Kratie, some 160km upstream The mighty Mekong River is at the heart of all things Cambodian and has fascinated explorers and visitors for more than a century WORDS STUART HEAVER LIFE BY THE MEKONG from Phnom Penh. Kratie is a charming, if slightly shabby former French colonial outpost perched on the eastern bank of the river, which in the dry season runs a deep azure blue. The Mekong is the largest freshwater fishery in the world Maps and general details about the trail are posted in most hotels. Although the offi cial guidebooks have run out, Joe Frerichat, owner of the Red Sun Falling, the last bookshop on the Mekong, lets me study his copy while I enjoy a Khmer supper of chicken and noodles in the store’s riverside restaurant. The trail off ers several routing options but with Joe’s advice I decide to hire a bicycle and head north- east along the riverbank towards the deep-water pools at Kampi some 10km away, which are home to the critically endangered Irrawaddy dolphins. The ride along the road that hugs the riverbank is quite easy going as I pass through riverside villages shaded by tall coconut palms and return waves to
PHOTO: AFP FLY/DRIVE //
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june-2011

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