june-2011

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SPECIAL RATES for Jetstar passengers Limited offer at the Budget counter now Jetstar passengers receive a special rate when renting with Budget in Bangkok or Manila before 31 July <strong>2011</strong> simply by mentioning this ad. Visit the Budget counter for details when you land and quote discount number BCD D115402. *Offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer, coupon or promotion (including contracted, corporate, pre-booked or tour rates). BUDG948
PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN IMAGE): AGEFOTOSTOCK; NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC STOCK; AFP children shouting greetings. To my left, I catch fl eeting glimpses of the Mekong as it winds past from the uplands of eastern Tibet 1,600km south and west to its fi nal destination in the South China Sea. Taking a brief rest in the shade of a pagoda, I meet Soda, a teacher at the local school, who lives with the monks at the temple. Their newly laundered orange robes fl ap on washing lines behind him as he tells me about the giant pirogues that are taken downstream to Phnom Penh every October for racing in the water festival. “The boat I race in is over 50 metres long,” he tells me proudly, running his hands along the side of the brightly painted riverboat. On the dusty riverside track behind the pagoda, I overtake a group of young monks and a mongrel dog that has stopped for a scratch in the shade of a stilted timber house. Despite the conservation efforts of the Cambodian Dolphin Commission, there are probably fewer than 100 of them left in the Mekong In Kampi, I head out onto the river itself in a traditional long-tail boat under a blazing sun, skippered by Pherom, a local fi sherman who re-trained as a guide and takes visitors out in search of dolphins. “The dolphins don’t mind the people visiting,” he tells me as he manoeuvres his boat around the deep-water pools in the river. Within a few minutes, we see a mother and her calf rolling gently in the water a few metres away. Ours is the only boat on the water and it’s a magical moment on the Mekong. Gordon Congdon of the World Wildlife Fund offi ce in Kratie tells me that despite the conservation eff orts of the Cambodian Dolphin Commission there are probably fewer than 100 of these creatures left. Pherom agrees to take me further upriver and the gently rolling river becomes CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: A fi sherman checks his nets at sundown; the rapids of the Mekong; the giant pirogues used for racing FLY/DRIVE // foaming rapids. A bumping and scraping of wood can be heard above the sound of the roaring water as the boat bruises itself on a large boulder. Pherom skilfully lands on a small sandy island in the middle of the river and our only observer is a white heron on a distant rock. A swim proves diffi cult as the current is running so fast, even in this sheltered backwater, that it takes all of my eff ort just to avoid being swept downstream. Bidding farewelling to Pherom, I head north again and arrive in the small town of Sombor to meet Khoun Tola of the Cambodian Rural Development Team. Tola arranges home-stay visits to simple fi shing villages on the nearby island of Koh Pdao. The river taxi that transports me 8km across the river to the island is packed with people, boxes and baskets of supplies. On arrival at Koh Pdao, my fellow homestay 047
Page 1 and 2: AARON YAN Taiwan’s boy-band heart
Page 3 and 4: PHOTOS (TOP-BOTTOM): SINGAPORE FOOD
Page 7 and 8: WORDS: BELINDA WAN MAIN PHOTO: MICH
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june-2011

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