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The establishments over on the<br />

other side of the wide street also<br />

say something about the charms of<br />

Dumaguete. Silliman Hall is at one<br />

end, signaling the beginning of a row<br />

of boutique hotels, restaurants and<br />

bars, with the odd offi ce building or<br />

two thrown in. Only here, perhaps, can<br />

you fi nd something like the surprisingly<br />

sophisticated Casablanca delicatessen<br />

and restaurant — which is attached to<br />

the Dumaguete Academy of Culinary<br />

Arts and offers a globe-trotting array of<br />

dishes — a few doors down from Pirate<br />

DISCOVER DUMAGUETE<br />

Bay, which is as much of a dive as its<br />

name suggests.<br />

You don’t have to wander too far<br />

to be able to take your pick, from the<br />

Spanish-themed Café Antonio, built<br />

within a heritage house and furnished<br />

with antiques; Moon Café, fi lled with<br />

university students and backpackers<br />

of every color and stripe; and the<br />

understated KRI, with a modern menu<br />

that would be a standout in the most<br />

chic parts of Metro Manila.<br />

It’s a chicken-and-egg type of<br />

dilemma, trying to fi gure out whether<br />

{ 166 }<br />

From top: The Moon Café<br />

offers live entertainment to go<br />

with your meal; the historic<br />

Dumaguete Church is always a<br />

pretty sight at night. Inset: The<br />

Boulevard comes alive with a<br />

fi reworks display.<br />

the boundless creative energy here<br />

has attracted artists, intellectuals and<br />

travelers, or whether it’s the presence<br />

of those people that contribute so much<br />

to the city’s vibrancy. But now the city<br />

seems to have managed to fall into a<br />

virtuous cycle, nurturing an atmosphere<br />

that is greatly conducive to creativity,<br />

which in turn also continually attracts<br />

the people who keep the atmosphere<br />

alive.<br />

Cebu Pacifi c fl ies to Dumaguete from<br />

Manila. www.cebupacifi cair.com

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